The bathroom bowl is the main item toilet room. You need to choose it by carefully considering the details of the design of the rest of the room. Comfort during hygiene procedures depends on how correctly the bath is selected. The installation process also requires no less attention, because it affects the quality and duration of future operation.
There are several options on the market:
Is it possible to install a bathtub yourself?
Installing a bathtub with your own hands is quite a feasible task, but it will require time, care and the help of at least one person, especially when installing a heavy cast-iron model.
Before you begin installation yourself, read the instructions for installing the bowl itself and connecting the water line and sewerage to it.
The technology for installing a corner bathtub and a straight bowl is no different. Main criterion- material and dimensions of the bathroom.
Important! For the room small area a corner design is an excellent option that will allow you to rationally delimit the entire space.
Installation sequence
We will divide the entire course of work into several successive stages:
- Preparatory.
- Driving and fastening the bowl.
- Connecting the drain to the sewer.
- Grounding.
- Processing joints and gaps.
- Installing a screen under the bath.
- Facing.
Preparatory work
This process is very important for correct installation bathroom
First make sure that you have all the tools necessary in the process of installing the bowl itself and attaching it to engineering systems. Refer to the following list:
In addition to preparing your tools, do the following:
Bringing in and securing the bowl
Installation of a cast iron bath
Not only the fastening of the bathtub, but also its lifting has its own technology:
Installing an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame
The technology for installing a plastic bowl differs from a cast iron one. To install it, you definitely need a frame, which will bear all the weight during operation.
When purchasing, select additional equipment for installation:
- Parts for attaching the bath bowl to the wall
- Fasteners for mounting the panel to the bathtub
- Set for connecting the drain hole to the sewer
- Decorative panels
- Frame.
In this case, the entire installation process will be quite quick and easy.
Look carefully at the diagram for installing the bathtub and assembling the frame, attached to the instructions.
Instructions for installing a bathtub with a finished frame:
Installing a plastic bathtub on a do-it-yourself frame
Technology self-creation frame will require more time, effort and Supplies. It is used in the absence of factory parts, and also if the specified drain height does not correspond to the height of the bowl.
Important! Installation of a steel bathtub follows the same principle.
Prepare in advance:
- wooden blocks
- drying oil or antiseptic solution for wood
- sheets of waterproof plywood, at least 15 mm thick
- self-tapping screws for wood and concrete
- glue mixture
- mounting angles.
Perform the work according to the following scheme:
Plumbing connection
Grounding
This process is required when installing a bathtub made of steel and cast iron.
It is better to entrust grounding to a specialist, but if you decide to do all the work yourself, then consider the nuances of the technology:
Sealing seams when installing a bathroom
Carefully seal all seams, joints of the drain system and gaps where the bowl and walls come into contact after completing all installation work. To create gaps, use cement mixture, if the joints with the sides of the bathroom are insignificant, or silicone sealant, which is also excellent for sealing the seams of the drain system.
In the case when the gaps between the wall and the sides of the bowl are more than 5 cm:
Installing a screen under the bath
In order to give an attractive and finished look to your bathroom design, installing a screen would be an excellent solution. The easiest way is to install a ready-made kit.
But you can easily cut the parts yourself, just by selecting the material to your liking and a more suitable design.
The most popular options for screen design:
When forming it, adhere to the following recommendations:
- Avoid bearing load on the screen.
- Carefully and hermetically seal the opening.
- Separate the floor under the bathtub from the rest of the room's floor to prevent water from leaking inside.
- Provide access to the drain and other plumbing systems running under the bathtub by installing a small door.
- Carefully measure all parts, maintaining the accuracy of the parameters
- Attach to a pre-created frame or special panels.
- When making a screen made of chipboard, plywood or plastic, cut a 2*5 cm or 2*10 cm ventilation hole in the side opposite the technical hole.
Facing
Wall cladding - the final stage decorative design bathroom. Do this only after the bathtub and other plumbing items are securely fastened. Regardless of what you choose facing material, be sure to maintain free access to pipes and joints.
Bathroom renovation
In order to repair a bathtub that is worn out or has lost its attractiveness and smoothness, it is not necessary to replace the bowl with a new one. An excellent alternative would be *installing liners in the bath*.
Most often they are made from acrylic, which makes the process less labor-intensive due to the lightness of the material.
Installation acrylic liner into the bath will allow you to quickly return it to its proper appearance without excessive effort.
Carry out all work in the following sequence:
- Measure the bathtub and select a model with the appropriate parameters.
- Sand the entire surface of the old thicket with fine-grit sandpaper.
Important! The degree of adhesion between the surface of the old bathtub and the new liner depends on how carefully this process is performed.
- Wash the bathtub, removing all debris and dust.
- Wait for the surface to dry.
- Remove the drain siphon.
- Install the liner inside the bathtub.
- Mark with a marker the extra protrusion along the side of the bowl and the location of the drain and overflow holes.
Important! Measure the drain and overflow circle, for example, using a removed siphon.
- Cut off all excess clearly along the lines.
- Apply sealant to the inside of the bathtub along the sides and foam throughout the rest of the area.
- Insert the insert.
- Press firmly on all sides.
- For maximum tight adhesion, press along the sides with clamps, placing wooden blocks under them.
- Install the siphon immediately.
- Close the drain hole with a plug.
- Pour water into the tub just below the overflow hole.
Important! Water will become the necessary load, and over the entire area of the bowl, without empty spaces.
- Leave in this position for a day.
- Drain the water and start using the bathtub as usual.
- Watch a video on the technology of installing a liner in a bathtub.
Conclusion
As you have already seen, the entire installation process is not particularly complicated. The main thing is to be consistent, perform all work carefully and carefully. Result correct installation bathroom - convenience and comfort during water procedures for many years.
When arranging their home, every person wants to create unique comfort, beauty and coziness in the interior of their living space. Home improvement involves paying special attention and care to each stage of the bathroom design, the sewerage and water supply systems installed in it, the operation of which must be absolutely correct, carrying out exactly those functions on which all hopes are pinned. Otherwise, property damage will occur. Therefore, you should carefully follow all the requirements and installation rules described in the instructions, especially if you are renovating the premises yourself. This article describes in detail how to properly install a bathtub in the bathroom yourself and without the help of professionals.
The bathtub is the center of the bathroom and what size, shape and color it is affects not only the mood, but also the performance characteristics. Today the market is replete with a wealth of plumbing equipment, which can be divided into three types: cast iron, steel and acrylic. You are probably thinking, what about hydromassage? That’s right, they also have a place, but they belong to the “elite” class, which is why the installation of such bathtubs is most often entrusted to specialists.
One of the most popular models on the plumbing equipment market are bathtubs made of steel and acrylic. They are characterized by lightness, hygiene, durability, reasonable price, they can be easily installed even by one. Cast iron structures are very heavy, but they are durable, strong, and installation is carried out exclusively with an assistant.
Before installing the bathtub in a specific place, you need to think through everything carefully. First of all, you should decide what size the bathtub should be, material, color, and then buy it. It is important that it does not block access to other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, while maintaining absolute functionality and comfort.
After the purchase new bath, you should get rid of the old one. A cast iron drain is usually cut out, but a plastic one can be broken. Next, the legs are broken, knocked out from under the bathtub, tilted on its side and taken out. Afterwards, the sewer socket should be cleaned, into which the corrugation should then be inserted and sealed with sealant at the joints to completely seal the corrugation.
For a cast iron bathtub, it would be ideal to use a cast iron cuff installed inside the drain hole.
How to install a cast iron bathtub on legs
Installing a clawfoot bathtub in a bathroom is quite easy. Modern baths usually equipped with a support with an adjustment mechanism. Such knives can be mounted on concrete screed or on the floor, if a bath screen is not intended. At the same time, it is important to understand that installed structure It won’t wobble to the sides, tilt, well, but it should be set strictly horizontally – level.
If you decide to change the location of the bath, this will require additional measurements, purchase hoses and pipes so that the installation of the bathroom is carried out as correctly as possible and without subsequent unpleasant surprises.
Important! Do not gently remove the protection from the bathtub during work to avoid damaging the smooth surface.
Installing a steel/acrylic bathtub
Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands or an acrylic one is carried out in the same way. The work is absolutely simple and even a beginner can do it. Three sides of the bathtub should rest against the walls, which promotes better fixation. Well, installing a bathtub under the tiles, of course, is carried out before laying the tiles themselves, moreover, it is best to leave a distance of up to 5 mm between the bathtub and the walls.
To attach the supports to the bathtub, you need to turn it upside down. Some are attached closer to the drain, others to opposite side. In the places where the supports are attached, everything is first degreased, after which the protective films are removed from the overhead elements in order to press them more firmly to the surface. If there are bolt stands, then before tightening the nuts, you should install engraving washers under the bolts.
If the supports were installed on a bathtub in the hallway, then it is most convenient to bring the structure into the opening sideways. The bathtub is installed in the designated place, moving it close to the walls. The level should be set horizontally, and the structure itself, after installation on the legs, should be carefully checked so that it does not wobble.
After this, the siphon is connected to the bathtub and sewerage system, treating all joints and cracks with sealant to avoid leaks. When all the fastening and connecting work has been completed, you can safely proceed to tiling.
Installing a steel bathtub in the bathroom
Important! After the tiles are laid on the walls, you need to check the legs again, tightening them until they stop.
Sometimes a problem may arise that the sewer hole is located high enough. Sometimes in some houses, both old and new, the sewerage system may be installed incorrectly. Therefore, installing a bathroom with your own hands requires additional elevation. For example, if you have a steel or cast iron bathtub, you can place it on wooden blocks or even bricks. Some threaded pins are replaced with elongated elements. The latter can be purchased at construction stores or markets.
Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks
The acrylic construction is quite light, so it can be placed on legs without any problems.
Important! After 10 years, the legs may deteriorate somewhat: rust, bend, as a result of which the slope necessary for the bath may be lost and the water will begin to go into sewer drain not completely. The bathtub itself can also crack due to the legs, so it would be better to install the bathtub on bricks yourself.
You will need:
- 20 pcs. red bricks;
- cement mortar;
- metal profile;
- hammer and trowel;
- tape sealant, silicone and level;
- solution container;
- grinder, self-tapping screws and hammer drill.
The bottom of acrylic bathtubs can be either round or rectangular, triangular or beveled. Therefore, the form of laying out the bricks must correspond to it.
Important! The height of the bath should not be more than 60 cm from the floor.
When installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks, the structure should be easily tilted forward so that the water can easily drain into the drain. For example, the height of the back rack of the bathtub will be 19 cm, and in the front – 17 cm; a distance of 50-60 cm will be maintained between the racks.
How to install a clawfoot and brick bathtub
- on bricks;
- on legs and bricks (combined installation).
Combined installation involves screwing the legs first and only then pave the intended space with bricks. To do this, it is necessary to make markings, according to which the brickwork is then made.
Important! Do not install the bathtub on a damp surface under any circumstances. cement screed. She needs to be given a day, or even more, to dry out.
Mounting sealing foam is applied on top of the dried masonry. After this, the bath is installed. The correct installation of the structure is checked using a level.
For better shrinkage of the mounting foam, water is poured into the bath. The joints between the walls and the product are sealed using tape sealant or silicone.
You can also make a solid brick base.
Installing a cast iron bath
Cast iron bathtubs are high quality, heavy models, characteristic feature which serve for long-term heat retention. Before you install the bathtub on bricks with your own hands, you need to bring it into the room in height, turning it on its side and laying it in its intended place with its bottom against the wall so that the outlet hole is in a certain direction.
Installation metal bath involves fixing the supports with a coupling bolt. The wedges are attached by tapping from the center to the edges until they are firmly fixed. Each support must be equipped with an adjustment screw and nut.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs
Afterwards, the bathtub is turned upside down to install the side supports. Use a level and an adjustment screw to avoid any kind of tilt when setting the horizon. Smooth legs should be fixed using polymer glue so that they do not slip on the surface, or, as an option, put plastic plugs on them.
After installing the bathtub on the legs, the water supply is connected, waterproofing all the gaps, cracks and butt joints. At the end a faucet with a shower is installed.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks
As mentioned above, a cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and cannot be handled alone. Therefore, experts suggest using a combined installation option: on legs and bricks.
After installing the bathtub on its side, it is better to immediately connect the siphon.
Important! Siphon for cast iron bathtubs You must immediately purchase high quality. Otherwise, replacing it will be extremely difficult.
As for the dimensions of the racks, they are indicated above. A cast iron bathtub can also be supported by racks, vertical posts installed around the perimeter of the structure. Installation on supports assumes that the height of the outer edge will be 0.5-1 cm higher than the edge in contact with the wall. This should be done to avoid water spilling onto the floor.
How to install a bathtub on bricks
About how to install steel bath on bricks, we will not tell you, since the process is identical to that described above. Due to the fact that steel structures have the ability to sag, support, of course, is better to do along the entire bottom.
There is another method of installing the product: this is when several welded pipes are laid on supports. Such baths require grounding. If the wiring suddenly becomes faulty, grounding can save lives.
Finishing
As for the decor, this process is carried out after all work on the bathroom is completed, when it is already fully installed and secured. The bathtub can be lined using tiles, plasterboard, or a special protective screen made of plastic, depending on your desire and capabilities. But when sewing up the bathtub, you should provide a window for changing the siphon or cleaning it. If you close the screen tightly, you will not be able to eliminate the leak, or you will have to break everything.
Installing a bathtub is a responsible, but relatively uncomplicated undertaking. With a strong desire to cope installation work Can on our own, refusing the services of third-party specialists and significantly saving money.
To make the process as easy, fast and interesting as possible, you need to carefully prepare for it.
On modern market sanitary equipment presented acrylic, steel and cast iron bathtubs.
Cast iron containers – time-tested option with impressive service life and heat saving performance. The material is resistant to various loads and generally does not cause any complaints.
The only unpleasant moments are the high cost of such products, as well as heavy weight. Due to the significant mass of the bathtub, installing it yourself can be difficult - you will have to hire an assistant.
Acrylic bathtubs have many advantages, among which:
- light weight;
- almost complete absence of noise when filling with water;
- many different shapes, sizes and configurations;
- affordable price.
Steel bathtubs also weigh little and are relatively cheap, however When filling such a container with water, a lot of noise is created. And steel products do not last long.
So, if you have enough budget and want to buy the most durable and reliable product, give preference to a cast iron bathtub.
If the most priority characteristic for you is non-standard shape and configuration as well as beautiful and modern appearance, buy an acrylic product.
If there are no special requirements for the parameters of the bath and desire to save money, feel free to install a steel container. Otherwise, the choice is yours, and the article “” will help you decide faster.
Deciding on the size and shape of the container
The modern market offers bathtubs of a wide variety of shapes (oval, circle, rectangle, corner and non-standard designs) and sizes (on average from 1.2 to 2.1 m).
When choosing the configuration and dimensions of the container, focus on your preferences and available space.
Think about how the new bathtub will fit into the interior of the room, whether it will fit in at all, whether it will be convenient to use the room after installing such a bathtub, etc. In general, these points are left to your discretion..
But there is a number of standards and requirements regarding various clearances and spacing. So at what height should a bathtub be installed correctly and what distance should there be between other elements in the room?
- Before the bath you need to leave order 90 cm free space, more is possible.
- The size of the space between the toilet and the bathtub should be not less than 75 cm.
- The distance between the top edge of the bathtub without legs and the floor should be about 0.5 m, if the bathtub has legs, this figure increases to approximately 64 cm.
Preparation for installation
Regardless of the chosen material for making the bathtub, for its installation you will need the following tools and accessories:
- Screwdriver Set;
- small grinder;
- chisel;
- level;
- hammer;
- gas key;
- cement mortar;
- insulating tape;
- polyurethane foam;
- drain fittings;
- corrugation with a diameter of 4 cm, rubber cuff 4x5 cm if connected to cast iron pipes, drain-corrugation of 5 cm when connecting to plastic pipes.
It is best to install the bathtub before tiling the walls.– in such a situation, the risk of damage to the finish is significantly reduced.
You need to do the following:
- shut off the water supply;
- dismantle old bath;
- break out the (plastic) or cut out the (metal) old drain;
- clean the sewer socket and insert the corrugation into it, then thoroughly coat all joints with a silicone-based sealant;
- level the floor if necessary.
When choosing a place to install a new plumbing product, remember: after installing the bathtub, there should be access to the pipes, but at the same time, the container should fit as tightly as possible to the wall.
At the end all you have left is remove construction waste.
Step-by-step instructions for acrylic products
The installation of such a product is carried out in several simple steps. All you need is follow the given instructions, and everything will definitely work out.
Installation of frame/legs
How to properly install a bathtub with legs or a frame yourself? We do the following:
- unpack the supporting elements;
- turn the bath over and mark on its bottom the places where the legs are attached. One should be placed near the head of the bath, the second closer to the drain hole;
- Drill holes for screws according to the marks.
- screw the mounting brackets to the bathtub. For this we use self-tapping screws. We screw the legs of the sanitary ware to the installed mounting brackets.
The hole depth should be no more than 0.6 cm. Be careful not to drill all the way through the bathtub. For greater convenience, mark the drill using insulating tape.
Siphon connection
We work in the following order:
- first we do connecting the top drain hole, and after – the lower one;
- we assemble the siphon;
- we treat surfaces with a solvent to thoroughly degrease them, and then apply a thick layer of sealing agent.
The choice of siphon should be given Special attention. The best option- This chrome plated product made of brass with a semi-automatic system for opening/closing drain taps.
About installing storage electric water heater you can read in.
Connection to sewerage
One of the last steps of each instruction above was connecting the bathtub to the sewer. Let's take a closer look at this process.
Kits for connecting the bathtub to the sewer are sold unassembled. We begin work by assembling the system.
First we need to assemble the individual nodes. To do this, take the hose through which the overflow and drain are connected, and put gaskets on it.
The gasket is made on a cone. It needs to be arranged thin side towards the ends of the tube.
Then we put nuts and gaskets on the drain design elements and assemble its body. To do this, screw part of the body to one side and the drain neck to the other. In the end you get a water seal - a ready-made system of tubes.
In order for the connections of structural elements to be of the highest quality and reliability, we place the cone-shaped gasket so that one of its parts fits into the inner diameter of the second part being connected and seals the resulting joint under the influence of a plastic nut.
Our next task comes down to connection of the drain body with the drain pipeline. To do this, we insert the pipeline into the drain body, not forgetting about the rules for installing the gasket, and then tighten the connection using a nut.
Next we proceed to assembling the overflow. To do this, we put on the O-ring, and then insert the body of the overflow system from the inside of our new bathtub. We apply a decorative overlay to the front side, and then secure the structure with a bolt.
Next to us you need to insert the tube into the overflow body. We do this from the inside of the bathtub. The tube will provide a connection between the drain housing and the overflow.
We attach the drain body to the bathtub. Before doing this, insert the gasket into the drain hole of the bathtub. Place the thick side of the gasket under the bathtub, and the thin side on its front side.
Attaching the drain body from the inside, then place the drain neck on the drain hole. It must be located on the front side of the sanitary ware.
Attach the drain to the bathtub using a bolt. Carefully tighten the bolt and tighten the rubber sealing gaskets.
Connect the hose from the overflow hole to the drain body and secure it with a plastic nut. We connect the drain hose to the sewer system.
The bath is connected to the sewer. Turn on the water and check the tightness of the connections. If it drips somewhere, carefully tighten the nuts.
We tighten the plastic nuts only by hand, without using any additional tools.
At the end, all that remains is to complete the finishing touches, if you want it or the design idea requires it.
Finishing
There are several main options for finishing the bathtub. You can do the following:
- tiling the bathtub;
- close the space between the top edge of the bathtub and the floor with moisture-resistant plasterboard;
- install a ready-made decorative screen.
Choose a method that do you like best, and get to work.
Regardless of the chosen method finishing, you must leave windows for access to drains and pipes so that if they break down, you can easily carry out the necessary repair measures. It is strictly forbidden to close these places tightly.
Now you own everything necessary information For self-installation and bath connections. Follow the recommendations received, and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck!
The question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about having information that many craftsmen hide - ignorance of the intricacies is precisely the stumbling block that makes most people refuse to install this plumbing fixture themselves and turn to the help of professionals. In this article, together with the website, we will talk about correct sequence installing a bathtub and the subtleties that are inherent in installing a bathtub depending on the material from which it is made.
DIY bathtub installation photo
How to install a bathtub with your own hands: sequence of work
To understand general principle installation for all types of bathtubs, first we will consider the sequence of work, which remains unchanged both with cast iron and even acrylic ones. We will leave the subtleties of the work relating to each individual type of bathtub for last.
- Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. I won’t go into the intricacies of installing a bathtub siphon, I’ll just say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. There is no need to perform any additional sealing of the joints - this will at least lead to damage to the product. The siphon assembly diagram is usually supplied by the manufacturers of these products.
- Installation of supports on the bathtub. Here, too, not everything is clear - there are quite a lot of designs for supporting elements. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen completely abandon factory legs and give preference to the so-called ones. In some respects they are right - for example, it is better to install steel bathtubs this way. We'll talk a little further about how to install a bathtub on bricks.
How to install a bathtub with your own hands photo
- Insulation and soundproofing of the bathtub. This step of the work applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs - cast iron products are already quite warm and do not produce excessive noise during the process of filling them. Sound and heat insulation of the bathtub is carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the bathtub, you may need from 4 to 5 large cylinders of polyurethane foam.
- Positioning the bath relative to the horizon. The bathtub, prepared and installed in the required place, must be aligned relative to the horizon level. There is no need to lay down any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and incorporated into the design of the bathtub. Positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for these purposes adjusting screws. By unscrewing and tightening them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bathtub is installed relative to the horizon level, and then the short one. The progress of this process is controlled by a rack level.
Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands photo
- Bathtub fixing. This nuance applies exclusively to steel or acrylic bathtub- such a step does not provide for, since its weight is quite enough not to sag or move under the weight of water and a person. Leveled acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls using metal hooks, which are often used to install water heating tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to prevent depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bathtub itself during operation.
- Sealing. This is the final stage of solving the question of how to install a bathtub correctly? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it would be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - self-adhesive border tape, and in still others it can even be used tile. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bathtub (this happens when the bathtub is installed before), one bottle of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.
How to install a bathtub to the wall photo
This is what the solution to the question of how to install a bathtub against a wall looks like? All that remains is to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bathtub depending on the material from which it is made. That's what we'll do next.
Subtleties of installing a steel bathtub: two important points
In addition to the above, you can add only two points - the height of the installation of the bathroom and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.
You can watch the nuances of installing a steel bathtub in the video below.
Features of installing an acrylic bathtub: four decisive factors
This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, you need to take into account the following nuances.
The nuances of installing a cast iron bathtub: what you need to know during installation
There are practically no nuances to installing this product. Or rather, they exist, but they are all described above. This bathtub does not need to be secured to the walls. All that is necessary is to put it in place, move it as close as possible to the wall and adjust it to the level. Adjustment is carried out by using steel pads under the legs. And in general cast iron bathtubs in modern renovation They are used extremely rarely - they are expensive and do not differ in the variety of forms. The only obstacle to installing a cast iron bathtub is its significant weight. If you are going to install such a bathtub, then enlist the help of an assistant.
Well, in conclusion to the question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. There is no need to be afraid of them - they are installed almost exactly the same way as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of fastening to the walls. Corner baths They are fastened to the walls in three places - at two points on the long side and at one point on the short side.
1. The bath is an important part of any apartment. Every apartment resident spends a significant portion of their room in the bathroom.
However, sooner or later, we are faced with the need to replace the bathroom with a new one. And here that knowledge will come to the rescue,
which we have outlined below. First of all, you need to dismantle the old bathtub. As a rule, this is associated with certain difficulties, since
the old coupling bolts are most likely rusty and it is simply impossible to turn them out with a wrench - the wrench erases the bolt head stops, but the bolt
and does not scroll - in this case it will have to be cut off with a grinder. Also, most likely we will encounter difficulties associated with dismantling the drain and
overflow grate. Previously, they were made of brass - a soft material; when dismantled, such a grille could simply break, and then you would have to
carry out dismantling using non-standard methods. One of them is this: using a hacksaw blade, we cut out the lattice segments, positioning the blade perpendicularly
inner ring.
Cut out the drain hole using a hacksaw or grinder 
Break the drain grate using a hammer and chisel
We make cuts from the inside and bend the segments inside the funnel. We do the same with the counterpart of the ring under the bathtub.
Now you can easily pull out the drain grate through the hole in the bathroom. We dismantle the overflow grille in the same way if it cannot be removed in the usual way.
When the grates are removed, we dismantle the drain and overflow pipes. If a drain pipe embedded in the sewer with cement, carefully break the cement, then remove the pipe.
Hole sewer pipe, it is necessary to close it with a stopper (this can be a piece of wood adjusted to the diameter of the pipe, or just a gag made from pieces of rags).
Remove the siphon and overflow from under the bathtub 
Free the walls of the bathtub
Now is the time to remove the bathtub and free up the room. To do this, break the tiles that secure the edges of the bathtub and remove it from the base.
The bathtub is carried out vertically through the doorway. When the bathroom space is freed up, we begin installing a new bathtub.
2. In this article we consider DIY bathroom installation, without electrical components. If you plan to use baths with electrical components,
We strongly recommend using the services of professionals.
Let's look at the main types of bathtubs in order to choose the most suitable one. Traditionally, bathtubs are made of cast iron, steel and acrylic.
Free standing cast iron clawfoot bathtub
Cast iron bath It keeps warm for a long time, it is not expensive, however, such a bath is very heavy. A cast iron bathtub weighs on average about 100 kg, which makes it very
the non-trivial task of its transportation and installation.
Acrylic bathtub - made from modern material- acrylic. The bathtub is made of acrylic plastic and is reinforced to avoid sagging. She is relatively
lightweight, but more expensive than cast iron.
Steel bath- just as easy, and at the same time - cheap. Its main drawback is that the water in it cools quickly.
Circular bathtub in the bathroom interior
In addition, there are bathtubs made of many other materials - stone, copper and even wood.
Also, bathtubs differ from each other in shape. The most common is a rectangular bathtub. However, there are also round side baths -
which bring additional aesthetics to the bathroom, however, when choosing this type of bathroom, you need to remember that the water in it easily overflows,
therefore, there should be at least 5-10 cm between the bathtub and the walls in order to provide easy access for collecting spilled water.
Round bathtub installed in a frame in the interior of the bathroom
In addition, it is advisable to use special curtains, the edges of which descend into the bathtub on each side.
Before installing the bathtub, you should ensure that the surface on which the bathtub is mounted is perfectly flat. If necessary, apply a screed, or
special leveling solution. It makes sense to combine a bathtub replacement with a bathroom renovation. In this case, the floor is laid with tiles.
After this, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry thoroughly (at least 2-3 days) and only after that proceed to further work.
The next step is to lay the tiles on the walls. We recommend laying tiles completely over the entire wall, including in those places that will be hidden by the bathroom.
It is quite understandable to want to save money by skipping places under the bathtub that are not visible to the eye, but in this case, the next time you install a bathtub, you will have to
also change the tiles.
When installation of a steel bath, first the bathtub is installed, and then the tiles are laid.
In the bathroom, the bathtub is brought vertically; the threshold of the rooms is first laid with something soft. The bath is located 70-80 cm.
Installation of a drain-overflow system for a bathtub
from the installation site, with the drain hole towards the taps, and then the drain system is installed.
Often, the drain works on the principle of a drain-overflow system. Installation begins with the installation of a drain funnel. The funnel is installed in the drain hole
baths (before this, we recommend inner side apply sealant to the funnel rings), put a sealing rubber ring on the back side
and a pressure (usually plastic or metal) ring.
Then the system is secured with a clamping screw - while making sure that the o-ring does not warp.
Then we screw a tee to the external thread of the funnel, so that the side outlet faces the nearest wall. When installing a tee, do not
We forget to seal it with O-rings and clamping rings.
Video: DIY bathroom installation
We install the overflow grid in a similar way, connecting it to the overflow tube, if necessary, reduce its length, cut it off top part overflow
tubes. When the drainage system is ready, we install the supports (legs) of the bathtub and mount the bathtub on them. The installation technology is as follows:
the first support is installed, the bathtub is carefully laid on it, then the opposite edge of the bathtub is raised, and the second supports are placed under it.
Then we connect the drainage system to the sewer system. After this, we move the bathtub to the wall, and using a level and adjusting screws on the legs of the bathtub,
We achieve a horizontal position of the bath. Then we check the tightness of the system.
This is done in two stages: first, pour water into the bathtub and drain it; if there is no leak, fill the bathtub with water and close the plug. If in this
If there is no leak, then the bathtub is installed correctly, you can begin installing the mixer.
Installing a faucet in the bathroom