Preface. Let's consider in this article what and how to insulate ventilation pipe on the roof and why it should be done this work. For owners of private houses, all these questions are very relevant and they often wonder what better insulation use to insulate an outdoor ventilation pipe. Video instructions for carrying out insulation works see the end of this article.

Is it necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe on the roof?

Let's figure out whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipes on the roof and in the attic? Why is insulation of communications carried out, how to insulate a ventilation pipe on the street, and is it difficult to do all the work yourself? Many residents of private houses will answer these questions unequivocally, that it is necessary to insulate the ventilation and the reason here is condensation.

Without insulation plastic pipes ventilation, condensate will form on the inner surface of the pipe and flow down the walls, flowing through the joints into the floors of the house. The negative effect of humidity on the ventilation duct depends on the material from which it is made. At the same time, in very coldy Due to frost, the pipe clearance may decrease.

The thing is that warm air contains a lot of moisture, and in winter, when it comes into contact with the cold walls of the pipe, it cools. When cooling, water vapor from the air precipitates as condensation on cold surfaces. This well-known physical process is inevitable when warm air reaches the walls of an uninsulated ventilation pipe on the street or in the attic of a private house.

Where is it necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe?

In what places is a layer of pipe insulation needed? The answer to the question is obvious: where the air flow will cool. If the ventilation is routed through the wall of the house, then the pipe is insulated up to the deflector. Often ventilation pipes go through an uninsulated attic; here the insulation of communications begins from the point where the pipe begins to cool.

For large industrial or office premises, use insulated ventilation valve. The mechanism is an adjustable blind that limits air flow. If necessary, it is possible to heat the exhaust air; heating elements heat the valve flaps to prevent condensation from falling on the surface.

But for private houses and with a long ventilation area, this solution is not suitable due to its high cost. It is necessary to find the dew point along the entire length of communications - the temperature at which condensation begins to form in the air. The following table will help you independently determine the section of the air duct where, given the current air humidity, condensation will begin to form.

The table will help determine the location of condensation in the pipe

How to insulate an outdoor ventilation pipe?

Let's review the insulation materials that can be used for communications. The thermal insulation qualities of the material, of course, are a priority when choosing, while the insulation should not spread flames in a fire, and its cost should not be exorbitant. For those who decide to do the insulation of the ventilation pipe with their own hands, it is necessary to choose the material that is as easy to install as possible.

Mineral wool shell with a layer of foil

Mineral and stone wool

The advantages of the material are low cost and fire safety. However, its installation is quite labor-intensive: communications are wrapped in mineral wool and then covered with galvanization or foil. Stone wool cakes over time and loses its properties when wet.

Insulated corrugation and ventilation pipes made of galvanized steel insulated on a base are free of these disadvantages. mineral wool, however, all ventilation pipes will need to be dismantled and communications re-layed.

Foam shell for ventilation pipes

Foam plastic, polyurethane foam

The detachable polystyrene foam shell is easy to install: you just need to put the thermal insulation halves on the pipe and press them so that the connection is fixed. Polyfoam provides excellent thermal insulation, does not change in size and does not lose its original qualities when moistened.

Shells for insulating pipes can be made of penoplex and foam plastic, which will allow you to inexpensively insulate a ventilation pipe on the street. After installing the foam shell on the communications, it should be secured with clamps.

Foamed polyethylene and rubber

The material is sold in the form of tubes various diameters, which are easy to put on the pipe. The material is inexpensive, not afraid of humidity and small mechanical loads.

One of the varieties this insulation– foil penofol, which can be laid in several layers if necessary.

In addition, there is a modern and reliable K-Flex pipe insulation made of foam rubber for insulating ventilation pipes in a private house, which is not afraid of moisture and low temperatures.

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Independent insulation of ventilation pipes - a whim or an urgent need

Few people now doubt the need to install ventilation systems. But many young owners are perplexed why it is necessary to insulate ventilation pipes in the attic or in other unheated rooms, because this is not plumbing or heating, and there is nothing to freeze there.

However, if you leave this issue without due attention, you may have problems that will pop up over time. serious problems. In this material I will try to explain the meaning of such insulation and tell you how and with what you can insulate ventilation ducts with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists.

What is the point of insulating ventilation?

The main enemy of any ventilation system is condensation, which is actively formed when warm and cold flows collide. Besides competent planning the system itself, insulated pipes for ventilation are one of the main means of preventing moisture loss. I’ll tell you later why this condensation in the ventilation system is so scary.

Actually, the insulation itself is necessary to prevent the conditions for the occurrence of the so-called dew point. According to the construction standard SP-50.1333-2012, this term refers to the temperature at which water vapor contained in the air precipitates in the form of water on surrounding objects, that is, condenses. Naturally, the dew point directly depends on air humidity; the higher it is, the closer the dew point is to the ambient temperature.

• Let's start with the fact that on an unprotected pipe in the attic floor, condensation can fall out both from the inside and from above the air duct. This moisture is dangerous in its own way in both cases. So the water constantly flowing down the pipe will naturally be absorbed into the ceiling. And here it doesn’t matter whether it’s concrete, wood or any other material, sooner or later it will begin to collapse. Add to this the unpleasant stains around the pipe on the ceiling of the top floor;
• More than half ventilation ducts and pipes are now made from galvanized iron. Zinc coating is a good thing, but if it is damaged, which is inevitable when cutting and installing, the thin iron sheet will begin to rust and it will take a little time for holes to appear on the pipe, no more than 2 - 3 years;

• In addition to domestic ventilation, in houses of 2 floors and above it is installed fan ventilation For sewer system. Simply put, this is a continuation sewer riser brought to the roof. So, with the extreme humidity that exists in the sewer, the attic sector of such a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm freezes tightly already at a temperature of -5ºC or -7ºC within a week. And this already entails problems with the operation of the sewerage system;
• In addition to its direct function, insulation for ventilation pipes is a good sound insulator. Having installed such a system, you will not have to listen to the howling of the wind in your pipes;
• But the rotten ceiling, the damaged ceiling, the constant music of the wind, bad smell from the sink and the sewage system frozen in winter are still “flowers”; the appearance of mold and mildew inside the household ventilation system is much more dangerous. The fact is that such “vegetation” spreads by aerosol; in other words, mold spores are carried by air currents. Naturally, once in ventilation system, they will regularly irrigate the entire house, and the people living in the house will constantly breathe in all this bouquet. The consequences can be very different, from mild malaise to chronic headaches and allergies.

Now weigh the pros and cons and decide for yourself whether you need to insulate the ventilation pipes in your home. I think the answer is obvious and further we will dwell in detail on common materials and methods of their installation.

How and how to insulate ventilation pipes

Installation of a ventilation pipe through a side wall is not so common and in most cases this is not domestic ventilation in pure form, and the chimney is for a heating boiler, but in any case, thermal insulation is installed on such air ducts, starting from the warm room or boiler and to the deflector at the end of the pipe.

As a rule, this is a heat-resistant cocoon made in a factory. As for installing ventilation insulation with your own hands, this type of work is more relevant for attic spaces.

From the mass of various modern thermal insulation materials I have selected a few of the most common options. In general, when choosing, you need to be guided by three main criteria:

1. First of all, this is as much as possible low level thermal conductivity. With the current range of similar materials on the market, this task is easily accomplished;
2. Second, but no less important criterion is the level of fire safety. Everything is more complicated here; not every material meets this requirement. Although, in the end, you are not going to barbecue in your attic, and even next to the pipes. Therefore, small compromises can be made;
3. And finally, about the painful issue, the price of the material. Here I can please you, almost all the most popular materials fit well into the average budget.

Mineral wool and glass wool

Glass wool can be safely called the patriarch of domestic insulation. There are no complaints about the level of thermal insulation here. As for fire safety, even the most meticulous inspector cannot find fault with it. The price of this material will also please you; it is one of the lowest among its competitors. This material is presented on the market in the form of soft mats of various types.

• But this, perhaps, is where all the advantages of glass wool end. It is believed that, compared to other materials, the installation instructions for this heat insulator are the most complex, although I personally do not share this opinion;
• Such mats tend to absorb moisture and the worst thing is that after drying they are no longer restored, the coating only needs to be changed;
• But even in absolutely dry rooms, glass wool gradually cakes; in fact, such insulation will have to be changed every 5–7 years;
• Plus, during the installation of such mats you will have to “wrap yourself up” as tightly as possible. In addition to safety glasses, a mask and gloves, it would be a good idea to get a thick overall. The fact is that this material is not called that for nothing; these mats are saturated with many small glass needles and if you work without protective equipment, then you will itch for at least a couple of days.

Not everything is so sad with mineral wool; it is a newer and more advanced representative of this trend. Such mats are dense, durable and resistant to external influences.

They combined everything positive characteristics glass wool. It is easier to work with mineral wool; overalls are no longer needed. Although this material is still afraid of moisture.

Thermal insulation of high-temperature surfaces (for example, chimneys) is carried out using insulation from a line of mineral materials.

Now let's move on to the issue of installation. As I already said, this is not particularly difficult. For curved and round surfaces soft glass wool is more suitable. This “blanket” is wrapped around the ventilation pipe. But you can’t leave glass wool like that; it needs to be additionally wrapped in a layer of technical foil or, in extreme cases, roofing felt.

And in order for this whole “pie” to hold securely, it needs to be secured on top with some kind of bandage. You can use metal or synthetic packaging tape as a bandage, but it is cheaper and easiest to secure such a cocoon with annealed steel wire, which is used for tying reinforcement.

Mineral wool slabs are denser than glass wool and are more suitable for insulating straight and flat surfaces. This is an almost ideal option for arranging thermal insulation for rectangular and square ventilation ducts.

You just need to cut such a slab into segments as usual the right size, cover the box with them, then wrap it in foil and secure it with bandages. It will be easier to work if you first degrease the pipe with an alcohol-containing solution and place mineral slabs on liquid nails.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

These two types of insulation have fairly high thermal insulation characteristics. They are durable and absolutely not afraid of moisture. But both of these materials are tough and cannot be wrapped around anything. Therefore, this option is not suitable for complex surfaces.

From a fire safety point of view, they are absolutely the same. Both polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam melt easily and burn well, and during combustion they release harmful and toxic compounds. So they cannot be installed in fire hazardous areas or on hot pipes.

As for the differences between polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, both of these insulation materials have the same base. But polystyrene foam is less dense, therefore, not as strong and rigid as polystyrene foam. Although polystyrene foam has one undeniable and important advantage, its price is an order of magnitude lower than that of its competitor.

I believe that if you need inexpensive insulation for the ventilation pipes in the attic, then foam is a decent and completely acceptable option. Expanded polystyrene is of course strong, but in the attic this strength does not play any role, and why pay more if there is practically no point in it.

It is even easier to install foam plastic insulation of pipes for ventilation with your own hands. For round pipes ready-made cocoons are sold. These segments consist of two or four semicircular sectors, which are connected to each other according to the tongue-and-groove principle. They can be covered with foil or go without it; in a dry attic this special significance does not have. The segments on the pipe are laid with a shift according to the principle of brickwork.

You just need to connect them tightly together and tighten them with a bandage. Although in this case I prefer to use liquid nails or any other glue for installation. Insulation of square and rectangular ventilation ducts with polystyrene foam is carried out according to the same scheme as the installation of mineral mats.

Foamed polyethylene

If you are looking for the simplest and cheap way ventilation insulation, then foamed polyethylene is just for you; in some sources this material is called penofol. By appearance it is similar to regular foam rubber, but with a larger structure. You've probably seen these gray foam tubes on the market. different diameters, so this is one of the options for such insulation.

You select a “wrapper” of the appropriate diameter for your pipe. Each braid is already cut lengthwise, so it will be easy to put it on the pipe. In order for the penofol to stick, you need to wrap it in several places with tape and that’s it.

In addition, penofol is sold in the form of a wide sheet up to 10 mm thick. This “blanket” can be wrapped around any non-standard part of the ventilation duct and finally secured with construction tape or regular tape. The same canvas can be covered with foil. This material is more expensive, but the thermal insulation effect is much higher.

Recently, another model of foamed polyethylene appeared on the market. It is well suited for ventilation insulation.

From already existing options This fabric is distinguished by the presence of a self-adhesive surface on one of the sides. Elementary instructions, removed protective film and stuck it on the ventilation pipe or box. If a thick coating is required, penofol is wrapped in several layers.

A few important points

On this moment insulation is widespread attic floors with the help of a special construction foam. The pleasure is certainly not cheap, but the effect is very worthy. It is possible to insulate ventilation pipes in this way, but trust this better for professionals. Because, in addition to the foam itself, you need special equipment, plus strict adherence to technology.

And there is no need to try to “blow out” the surface of the air duct with ordinary foam, not counting the high cost of this project, polyurethane foam on outdoors It will last a maximum of a year, after which it will begin to crumble. After all, this one is convenient construction material intended for slightly different purposes.

And you definitely shouldn’t wrap ventilation pipes with old rags and cotton mattresses. Ordinary fabric or cotton wool will gradually become saturated with moisture and there will be practically no benefit from this idea, except that the external condensation will be absorbed into these rags.

Conclusion

As you can see self-insulation ventilation pipes, both in the attic and in any other room, is not something exorbitant. And if desired, a good owner will be able to cope with this task. The photos and videos in this article show options for installing such insulation. If you have anything to add or have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

July 22, 2016

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Arrangement exhaust system in moderate climatic conditions requires a separate approach to solving the condensate problem. For properties located in cold climatic zone, insulation of the ventilation pipe is one of the mandatory conditions for normal gas exchange.

Why insulation is required and what can happen if you bypass this issue - this will be discussed.

Each air duct of a ventilation system that operates to release heat from a room requires mandatory insulation. In the cold season, due to the difference in temperature of the emitted warm air from the room and cold air outside, condensation forms inside the pipe. Modern split ventilation systems and the like climatic equipment with “own” air channels, they have special blocks that counteract the formation of condensation and remove accumulated moisture.

Ventilation pipes, which in most private homes are an ordinary piece of metal or plastic, are unable to remove condensate in this manner. And the process of formation of dew droplets occurs noticeably faster in them. The result is the appearance of wet spots on the floors and frost, accompanied by a decrease in the air channel inside the pipe.

Dampness causes the formation of fungus, creates optimal conditions for the development of pathogenic microorganisms. You can get rid of these troubles by using insulation for ventilation pipes. At the same time, it is not always necessary to completely “wrap” the air channel in order to minimize the formation of condensation.

The right approach to insulation

To answer the question: how to insulate a ventilation pipe in a private house correctly and at the same time economically, you need to understand the reasons for the appearance of condensation. Temperature differences always lead to the appearance of condensation, but the most abundant release of “dew” is observed during the period of active contact between warm and cold air. The closer it can be moved to the outlet of the pipeline, the less potential danger and damage from condensate will be.

The need for use cannot be disputed. Installing ventilation completely will require a lot of costs, of course they will pay for themselves in the near future.

Still, you want maximum service life, so for this you need to know about the nuances of using certain elements.

You will have to take care of the safety of the connecting joints, the tightness of the solders, and also about one of the most necessary things - decide whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe, the main element of the entire system.

This question remains very important, since with the arrival of winter, the air temperature drops significantly and its humidity increases, which can play an unpleasant joke on your pipes.

Therefore, when asked why to insulate a ventilation pipe, the answer will be positive.

The existing risk of condensation, which in the future will become a problem both for the full functioning of your ventilation system pipes and the cause of dampness, mold and deformation of the plaster, will convince you that you still need to insulate.

Even a new one, when exposed to frozen water and temperature changes, can be damaged. Therefore, we will now tell you how to insulate a plastic ventilation pipe.

1 Installation of insulated ventilation pipe (insulation materials)

After you have decided whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe, you need to decide on the costly materials for the work and the optimal material for you. You also need to decide: make the insulation yourself, or buy an insulated ventilation pipe that will be made “to suit you.”

Obviously, with the first option you will save your money, and with the second, your valuable time.

The insulation has a device in the form of a shell-casing. It installs from outside pipes and are connected to each other with special materials, and are also additionally covered with a sheet of foil insulation.

What material to choose for pipe insulation

Also, there are enough big choice the insulation material of the ventilation pipes itself. The main condition here is that the material has an excellent thermal conductivity coefficient. You have the opportunity to choose between polystyrene foam, basalt fiber, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or polypropylene, as well as polyethylene foam.

Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, polystyrene foam has a long shelf life, and it is also very resistant to erosion. The foam itself is environmentally friendly and has a symbolic weight, which makes it very convenient for insulating the air duct. In addition, its installation is not labor-intensive.

Also, low cost makes foam plastic the most common among insulation materials. Its main disadvantage is its poor resistance to fire, as well as its limited scope of application, since its use on bends is almost impossible.

It is also common to insulate ventilation using mineral wool, which is also a cheap material and, unlike foam plastic, has high fire safety.

At the same time, the installation of mineral wool requires high compliance with safety regulations (the material cannot be called environmentally friendly), as well as poor resistance to humidity. Insulating ventilation pipes with mineral wool will require labor-intensive installation.

Polyurethane foam and polypropylene foam are similar to polystyrene foam, but compared to it they have greater strength. At the same time, the price for this type of insulation is slightly higher. Insulated pipes using basalt fiber are also quite common.

Basalt layers can withstand extremely high temperatures, have good flexibility (which makes it possible to service insulated flexible air ducts on almost any section of the pipe), and also have high strength and resistance to humidity. Insulated pipes for ventilation made of foamed polyethylene are installed using a few movements, have a low price and good strength.

If you are wondering how to insulate a ventilation pipe on the street with the most the right decision will become a material that has greater moisture resistance and heat transfer.

2 What types of ready-made insulated pipes are there?

You can make insulation for your pipes yourself, but if it is important for you to do everything in a short period of time, you have the opportunity to purchase ready-made insulated ventilation pipes. At the moment, there are many options for insulated pipes on the market: metal, metal-plastic, plastic. You can also choose the insulation material for the finished pipe.

If you are faced with the task of insulating your home, the best option would be plastic product. This type insulated pipes have a long service life, and are also easy to transport and install. For a room with high temperatures, the best would be a metal alternative.

Insulated pipes can be made with. The price of an insulated ventilation system depends on its type, the thickness of the steel sheet, as well as the need for installation additional elements. Insulated galvanized steel ventilation pipes will become ideal option for areas with high temperatures.

The cost of insulated pipes for ventilation is directly proportional to the material of manufacture of the pipe itself, the insulation material, as well as the ratio of its necessary advantages (moisture, fire resistance, and heat-insulating properties).

2.1 Stages of pipe insulation

First of all, you need to measure the section of the pipe that you are going to insulate. Since ventilation pipes can have different lengths, thicknesses, and also have both a straight shape and various kinds of bends, transitions, and connectors, all this must be taken into account when taking measurements.

The next step will be cutting the shells into required areas, and their further connection with each other. Depending on the insulation material, as well as the conditions of the room in which the pipe is located, further installation will depend.

Now you are faced with the task of how to properly insulate the ventilation pipe. Before direct installation, it is necessary to remove dirt and dust. After installing the insulation, make sure that the layer is intact and, if necessary, additionally secure everything with a connector.

Now it remains to determine whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe on the roof and whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe in the attic. Of course it is necessary. The roof is the place where the pipe goes outside, which means it has direct contact with moisture, low temperature and direct atmospheric pressure.

The percentage of ventilation pipe demolition on the roof is the highest. The issue of environmental friendliness fades into the background; the main thing when installing insulation on the roof is good thermal insulation properties and ultra-high moisture resistance. Along with the roof, the attic too important area, through which the ventilation pipe passes, in most rooms.

If you need to decide how to insulate the ventilation pipe in the attic, the best material You will be served by foamed polyethylene, the installation of which will take you little time, as well as basalt fiber, which has a high thermal endurance and good flexibility, which will allow it to be used in indirect areas.

2.2 How ventilation pipes are insulated - video

Ventilation in a private home is an essential component for maintaining a comfortable microclimate in residential premises. However, along with their positive properties it is often the main source of heat loss. How to insulate a ventilation pipe in a private house, and what is best to use for this?

During operation, a small layer of ice can often be observed on the surface of the ventilation pipe. Its appearance is due to the temperature difference between the manufacturing material and the air leaving the residential building. As a result, moisture forms and frost and ice appear.

Icing of the ventilation pipe

If this process is left to chance, a number of negative factors. They will directly affect not only integrity and functionality, but can also affect operational properties the entire building. The reason for this is condensation that forms on the inner wall of the pipe. Its constant presence can lead to the following consequences:

• The occurrence of corrosion processes on galvanized surfaces. Over time, this can lead to a violation of the sealing of the ventilation system;
• Reducing the bore diameter of the pipe. Its gradual icing reduces the actual diameter of the ventilation hole. As a result, air exchange rates decrease;
• Impact on the walls of the house. Water can penetrate into the wall structure and interfloor ceilings. This will cause an increase in humidity, which will affect general condition Houses.

It is recommended to resolve the issue of ventilation pipe insulation at the stage of building construction. However, this is not always possible. It is often necessary to install a thermal insulation layer on an already functioning system.

Material selection

Insulation for ventilation

First of all, you need to choose the right thermal insulation. It must have a number of properties that will subsequently affect performance qualities ventilation system. You also need to take into account the cost of materials and the complexity of installation.

The priority when choosing is the degree of thermal insulation. The main purpose of the insulation is to bring the temperature on the surface of the pipe as close as possible to the degree of heating of the warm air leaving the house. This is the only way to get rid of condensation. For this you can use whole line materials:

• Basalt wool. The best option for arranging ready-made or just installed ventilation. Its fibrous structure can completely repeat the shape of the air channel. The disadvantage is hygroscopicity - basalt wool gradually absorbs moisture. For protection, installation of an external waterproofing layer is necessary;
• Polystyrene foam shell. It is manufactured only for round pipes and a certain diameter. The advantage is ease of installation, good thermal insulation qualities, water resistance (details). Polypropylene foam has similar qualities. It differs only in its denser structure;
• Foamed polyethylene. It's elastic polymer material, which can be purchased in rolls or in soft shell form. Some models have an adhesive backing for ease of installation.

One of the parameters for choosing a specific type of heat insulator is the thickness of the material. For the middle regions of Russia, it is enough to install thermal insulation with a thickness of 20 to 50 mm. The lower the temperature in winter, the larger the layer of insulation that needs to be installed on the ventilation system.

Installation procedure

The method of installing insulation directly depends on the selected material. For fastening basalt wool tape is used. When installing a ready-made foam shell Special attention is given to sealing connecting seams.

It is not necessary to install a heat insulator on the entire ventilation system. It is important to provide the proper level of protection from exposure negative temperatures in certain sections of the pipeline:

• Ventilation outlet to the roof. This is where the greatest heat losses occur;
• The passage of the highway through unheated room. Most often this refers to the attic;
• Areas of direct contact between pipe and outer wall building.

In all other cases, installation of insulation is not necessary. It is important to periodically check for possible condensation on the inner surface. If it appears even after sealing the air ducts, an additional layer of insulation will be needed.