The bathroom is a room where elevated temperatures are required. Firstly, it feels more comfortable, and secondly, warm air will quickly remove excess moisture after taking a shower or bath. Heating in the bathroom is done infrequently - it is not accepted. A more common method is to install a heated towel rail, which we’ll talk about next. For everything to work without problems, you need to choose the right connection diagram, and even implement it correctly. And you will have to figure everything out on your own. After all, even if you don’t do everything yourself, you’ll have to keep an eye on the plumbers. This is the only way to be sure that you will be left with a properly functioning dryer.
What designs are there?
There are heated towel rails different forms. When choosing them, people are often guided solely by aesthetics, which is not entirely justified. These devices work normally with good water circulation, but not all models provide such circulation. With some you have to spend a long time trying to find the right connection diagram, otherwise they simply refuse to work.
So, all heated towel rails can be divided into four groups:
It often happens that after installing a heated towel rail it simply does not work. If the error is serious, the riser to which it is connected also stops working. Therefore, it is necessary to know and follow the connection rules.
Where to connect and where to hang
You can also connect a water heated towel rail to the riser hot water and heating. If both of these options are available, DHW is usually chosen. There are three reasons for this: there is less hassle with permission to connect, you can connect at any time of the year (agree with the management company to turn off the riser and that’s it) and, most importantly, such a heated towel rail heats up all year round.
If there is no hot water supply in the house, you will have to connect to the heating riser. This requires permission from the Criminal Code and a project. Buy a heated towel rail (preferably a simple design), go to the housing office with its passport (copy), write an application. If permission is given, order the project (you will also need a copy of the passport with connecting dimensions). Then, according to the project, you do it yourself or hire performers (plumbers from the housing office, as an option). Call representatives of the Housing Office for acceptance.
To ensure that the “towel” always warms up without problems, all connections are straight, without arcs or pockets
When determining where to install the heated towel rail, questions may still arise about what height it should be hung. If you have a choice, it is most convenient to place it so that it is at head level and below. This is if you install a U-shaped or snake. If we're talking about For “ladders” of great height, the top bar is placed at the level of the heat of the raised hand (approximately 190-200 cm).
When choosing a location for installing a heated towel rail, you must also take into account the distance from the riser. In principle, the closer to the riser, the better - the greater the chance that it will work. But, it can be attributed to a meter or so only if the following conditions are met:
- low hydraulic resistance of the heated towel rail (simple shape and cross-section 1″ or 3/4″),
- sufficient pressure (2 atm or more)
- drain pipes of normal diameter (one step smaller than the riser).
At the same time, be sure to follow other connection rules. Then there will be chances that such a “remote” device will work normally.
How to make bends and how to change the riser
If the riser is metal and you are not going to change it, then installing a heated towel rail is possible with steel or. If you change the riser ( the best option) and install polypropylene, there is no choice - PPR pipes they also go for taps. Use polypropylene for hot water, preferably reinforced with fiberglass.
Why is metal-plastic not suitable? Because its fittings have a very narrow clearance. This has a very bad effect on circulation. As a result, even 100% efficient circuits do not provide normal heating.
A little about why to change the riser. It makes sense to do this in old houses when renovating a bathroom or bathroom (depending on where your riser is located). Firstly, the pipes are usually already old and worn out. Even welding an outlet to them can be problematic, the metal is so worn out. Secondly, modern renovation involves hidden laying of communications and you will want it too. Hide old pipe, and after a few years to destroy everything again... not a good decision.
A little about how to change. You need to come to an agreement with the neighbors below and above, as well as with the housing office (DEZ, UK). With your neighbors that you will cut off their riser and install a new one on the thread. Why do they have it? Because leaving an old pipe in the ceiling is dangerous: it will collapse and leak. It will flood you or your neighbors below. Therefore, it is better to pass through the ceilings with a new pipe.
With this connection, the dryer is part of the riser and there cannot be any taps
Having agreed or not with your neighbors (their riser may already be closed), you go to the housing office and agree on the date of replacement and the time for which the riser will be turned off. The work can be done by “local” mechanics, you yourself (if you have welding qualifications) or people you hire. After the connection, the water is turned on, you check the functionality of the heated towel rail and the system as a whole. If it doesn’t start to cool within 30 minutes, it means it’s set correctly. This completes the replacement or installation of the heated towel rail.
With or without bypass
Let's start with what a bypass is. This is a jumper between the input and output of the device, which ensures water circulation when the device fails or is turned off.
The jumper between the input and output of the heated towel rail is the bypass
If there is a bypass with the circuit, you can install cutoffs at the input and output of the device Ball Valves. This is convenient - you can turn it off if necessary (during repair or replacement) and not block the entire riser.
If there is no such jumper, no taps can be installed. In this case, the heated towel rail is part of the riser; by closing the taps, you completely shut off the riser.
The bypass can be direct (as in the first photo in the chapter) or offset (in the photo below). An offset jumper is installed at the top supply of coolant for better work(circulation improves). With bottom feed, the offset only gets in the way. If you don't know where the water is coming from, it's better to do a direct bypass.
Bypasses (straight or offset) are also made narrower. Tapering, as well as displacement, improves circulation, but only in the case of top feed. The narrowing is made with a pipe that is one step smaller than the main one (if the riser is inch, the bottleneck is made 3/4″). You can't do less. The insert size is at least 10 cm.
Once again: an offset and/or narrowed bypass only works with top water supply. At the bottom, it interferes with circulation. If you are not sure, make the bypass straight and untapered.
It is strictly forbidden to install taps on the bypass. Each tap is a loss of pressure, which means it worsens the circulation of the entire riser, the water flows no longer so hot. For all neighbors above or below (depending on the direction of supply), the pressure deteriorates noticeably. Sometimes it also falls on the owner of the bypass with the tap. On top of everything, it's absolutely unnecessary detail, which only brings harm, and no noticeable improvement in circulation in the heated towel rail is observed. Well, and besides, this is a violation of SNiP 01/31/2003 (clause 10.6) - interference with public communications, for which a (considerable) fine may be issued.
How to place taps (connection methods)
For lateral and diagonal connections, the outlets should be located at the same level as the heated towel rail inlets or slightly higher/lower. What definitely won’t work is installing a heated towel rail if the outlets are located at a distance less than the distance between the inputs. The photo below is an example of a non-working diagonal connection with closely spaced taps. The option for correcting it (top feed) is indicated in black.
When connecting, the taps must be positioned strictly horizontally or slightly at an angle. Slightly at an angle - this is from 2 cm per meter (2%) or maybe a little more. The direction of the slope depends on the connection diagram and which end this outlet will be connected to. To make it a little clearer, let's look at a few standard schemes connection of heated towel rails.
Universal bottom connection for heated towel rail "ladder"
This circuit works regardless of the direction of hot water supply. Connection type - bottom, both outlets should be located lower than the bottom edge of the dryer. With top feed, an option is acceptable when the edge is located between the bends, but the work may not be so efficient (it may heat up worse).
In this scheme, you can install shut-off valves. For its normal operation you need:
- Mayevsky valves (air vents) installed on the upper outlets to release air accumulated in the upper part. They will need to be periodically opened and vented (as the heat begins to worsen). There is an option - install automatic air vents. They are also compact. This will make it easier to use.
- The bypass is straight and narrowed. The narrowing size is a pipe of one step smaller in diameter.
- Bends are made with a pipe of a step smaller in diameter than the main riser.
If this option suits your height, do it. The scheme works in any conditions, with ladder-type heated towel rails of any type.
Possible bottom connection for top supply
When pouring hot water from above, you can make the upper outlet higher than the bottom edge of the dryer. With the bypass displaced and narrowed, it should heat up normally. This method is not the best, but it works.
The presence of air vents and bleeding of air after the system is stopped are mandatory.
Universal side connection
You can connect the pipes from the side to the heated towel rail in any of the standard shapes - U-shaped, snake and ladder. The connection itself does not depend on the form. The standard version comes with a straight, unnarrowed bypass. Bends are either strictly horizontal or with a slight slope. There is a slope in the figure: the end of the upper branch is tilted slightly downwards (2 cm by 1 meter), the lower one is tilted slightly upwards. The diameter of the outlets is not less than the diameter of the heated towel rail.
This connection diagram is good because there is no need to install air vents on the “ladder” (they install plugs), since the air simply goes into the riser.
With the top supply on the bypass, you can narrow it and/or move the jumper towards the heated towel rail. This will improve circulation and the dryer will heat up better. But once again: such a scheme will only work with top water supply.
With this scheme, it is also possible to make bends at a slight angle or strictly horizontally.
Possible side connection option (not the best)
A lateral connection scheme with the top outlet located below the top edge of the heated towel rail is acceptable. But with such a connection, Mayevsky taps are needed, through which you will have to bleed the air after turning off the hot water supply for repairs/maintenance. It may also be necessary to periodically remove air during the process.
Diagonal connection
There is no particular point in the diagonal connection of most heated towel rails: their efficiency is no different from the side one (in any case, there is no significant improvement), but the pipe consumption is greater, longer grooves are required, and this is labor-intensive. Although the scheme is workable.
The diagonal works fine if the feed water is coming above. Then the upper outlet is connected to the far edge of the “ladder”, and the lower one to the near one.
In this case, you can also make a narrowed and offset bypass, but even without this everything should work with a bang. With bottom supply, the bypass is not narrowed, exactly along the riser, connection
Heated towel rails with complex shapes: how to connect
In case of connecting heated towel rails complex shape In addition to the usual means, one also has to take into account the structural features of each specific model. They must be considered from the point of view of hydrodynamics - where water flows best, water is supplied there. For example, the popular model “Elegy” from Sunerge. This is not a ladder or a zig-zag.
Installation of the Sunerzhi Elegy heated towel rail was chosen from the side, since with any other installation the circulation will be disrupted. There are no options here at all.
Another model - with bottom connection and complex design has three installation options. Provided water is supplied from above, the second one will work best, the first one will work a little worse, and the third one will be the most ineffective.
When feeding from below, options 1 and 3 remain, but only without narrowing the bypasses - it will interfere, not help. We exclude the second option completely.
What not to do
All the above schemes work stably. As you noticed, all bends go straight, without bends in the form of an arc or rings. This is not accidental - air accumulates in all irregularities, which interferes with, and sometimes completely blocks, circulation.
The installation of the heated towel rail in the photo is incorrect. At least two mistakes were made:
- the bends are made narrower than the center distance of the heated towel rail;
- They are made with a metal-plastic pipe with loops.
This connection simply cannot work. Metal-plastic pipes are an excellent material, but not for connecting heated towel rails. Their fittings have a very narrow lumen, which has a bad effect on circulation. Plus, air accumulates in the loops, and the flow along the upper loop, even when supplied from above, will not flow - too much hydraulic resistance to the water must be overcome.
Unstable circuits
The following two schemes may work, but not always. At the bottom of the heated towel rail, the water stagnates and, given any difference in height, cannot rise. No one can say specifically when it will work and when it won’t. Depends on the pressure in the riser, the diameter of the pipes and the design of the dryer itself.
With such a connection, even a working connection may suddenly (usually after stopping) stop working. Everything is simple: the pressure has changed, the pipes are clogged, the water from below is not “pressed”, the heated towel rail does not heat.
Another option for an unstable circuit is with a loop on top. Again, it will work under certain conditions. But sooner or later the highest point will become airy and block the circulation. The problem can be helped by installing an automatic air vent at the highest point, but if the pressure drops, it will not save you.
Not true at all
The photo below shows examples of what not to do. Schemes without a tap on the bypass are inoperative. What this threatens is known. In addition, after several years of use, they will stop functioning altogether. Most likely this will happen after the next shutdown - the system will become clogged with dirt. This is because the entire flow of hot water is directed through the heated towel rail. After repairs the water carries great amount dirt, which safely settles in bends (in the lowest areas first). Within a few years everything becomes completely clogged. Fortunately, everything needs to be redone and connected correctly, but only flushing can help the fire.
It is necessary to wash both the heated towel rail and the connections to it. To do this, remove the dryer and wash it in the bathroom, and wash the outlets one by one by connecting a hose to the free outlets, the other end of which is taken to the sewer. By manipulating the taps, pass a flow of hot water through one outlet, then through the other. After washing everything is put back in place. It may be possible to start the system after this.
Installation process
The connection of the heated towel rail to the finished outlets is standard for plumbing - suitable fittings, flax and packaging paste or fum tape. For mounting to the wall, there are brackets or special holder clamps into which the pipe is pressed. The process is shown in detail in the video.
If your heated towel rail is already more than fifteen years old, then its appearance is probably completely depressing. Well, after getting acquainted with its more modern counterparts, there immediately arises a great desire to install this snake-like chrome-plated miracle in your own bathroom.
In order to make this desire come true, there are two options:
- Invite professionals to replace the heated towel rail.
- Install the heated towel rail yourself.
Whichever option you choose, read this material to the end. If the replacement procedure is carried out by hired workers, you can easily monitor all their activities. If you install the coil yourself, you will receive quality instructions on the topic “Installing a heated towel rail” and you can easily carry out this procedure.
The strategy for replacing a heated towel rail is as follows:
- The riser is disconnected from the water.
- Remove the old product.
- Install a special jumper.
- Ball valves are installed at all joints with the device.
- Then you can turn on the riser and perform all further work.
It is worth noting that you will have to pay your management company to turn off the riser.
Main varieties
Depending on the operating principle, there are the following types of dryers:
- Operating on hot water. They can be connected to a hot water or heating system. Such dryers will be useful because they can significantly reduce your utility costs.
- Powered by electricity. Such specimens are completely independent of water supply and heating. Quite durable (since there is no corrosion). Easily installed in any convenient place. But the main thing is that there is a power source nearby.
- Combined. It is a combination of the previous types. During the heating season, hot water circulates through the device, and the rest of the time you can turn on the heating element to heat the water.
The appearance of modern water devices is quite diverse. Let's look at their types.
The first type: M, U, F-shaped - the most common shapes.
Second type: “snakes”, “ladders” and other varieties original design devices. To include them in the current system, great importance also has the location of the installation pipes:
- Lateral - as a rule, used for heated towel rails of the first type.
- Top or bottom - more common among the second type of coils.
Choice optimal option is always determined by the type of connection diagram, the presence of the necessary free space in the bathroom, as well as the location of the piping system.
Installation norms and rules
All requirements for connecting the dryer to the hot water supply system can be found in SNiP 2-04-01-85.
Installing a heated towel rail according to all the rules consists of connecting the outputs and inputs of the radiator circuit with the fittings of the heating riser or water main using plastic pipes.
Pipes, couplings, bends are assembled into one whole using a special soldering iron.
To connect a purchased heated towel rail, you can also use copper and metal-plastic pipes, however, it is necessary to take into account here whole line features. In modern half-inch pipes made of metal-plastic, the cross-sectional diameter is smaller than in plastic ones. In addition, they do not withstand strong pressure changes well. Copper pipes, despite their durability, will cost a lot a large sum, and their welding requires special skills and special precautions.
If you want the heated towel rail to perform its functions normally, you must ensure that the supply pipe has a slight slope in the direction of the flow of hot water. Over the entire length of the liner, its length ranges from 5 to 10 mm. The water flow should pass from the top point of the heated towel rail circuit to the bottom. For this purpose, the upper radiator socket is simply connected to the hot water supply riser.
There must be a gap between the surface of the walls and the circuit pipes. It is 35 mm for pipes with a cross-section of less than 23 mm, and 50 mm for pipes with a cross-section of over 23 mm. All distances are easily adjusted with a pin that is screwed into the bracket; however, there are also completely fixed mounts where this distance cannot be changed. The structure that supports the piping should not be fixed too rigidly in order to compensate for all thermal expansion of the pipes and at the same time not load the wall sections that support them.
Required materials
Before installation, it is important to check the equipment of the device, familiarize yourself with the design, connection diagram of the new dryer, and also study the instructions. It's best to prepare in advance necessary materials and tools.
- directly purchased heated towel rail;
- brackets;
- PVC pipes of the required diameter (26 and 32 mm);
- screwdriver;
- turbine;
- fasteners;
- knife for cutting PVC pipes;
- construction level and hammer;
- two adjustable wrenches;
- two or three ball valves;
- tow or some other sealant;
- two union solder nuts;
- soldering iron for PVC pipes;
- PVC elbows;
- one PVC elbow with internal thread;
- two tees (if you install a jumper);
- one coupling with internal thread.
Removing the old heated towel rail
First of all, contact the organization that services your water supply and heating networks so that they shut off the hot water supply during your dismantling work. And only after that start removing the old dryer.
In addition, when removing the old coil, you need to pay attention to the wear of the riser to which it was connected. If its condition already leaves much to be desired, then it makes sense to replace it partially or completely. It would also be useful to ask the opinions of neighbors above and below. Maybe they will support the idea of changing the riser completely. Even when you perform the replacement only at your place, it is necessary to do this in such a way that the ancient pipes do not remain in the ceilings, and the connections with the new sections are accessible and visible. Having marked the required sections, cut off part of the riser with a grinder along with the dryer.
The cut ends of the pipes still need to be threaded. For this, a special thread-cutting machine is useful. In specialized markets they sell and give this tool for rent. Remove the chamfers from the ends of the cut pipe with an impeller, install the required gauge in the tool socket and, having secured it well at the end of the pipe, simply cut the thread.
Currently, copper, steel and polypropylene pipes are most often used for plumbing. The latter are distinguished by their low price, ease of installation, and immunity to corrosion.
In addition, the soldering process propylene pipes simple and easy to learn. For independent work you will need the following tools:
- soldering iron for pipes;
- a set of different nozzles of the required caliber;
- wire cutters or pipe cutter;
- chamfer;
- shaver (for removing aluminum from pipes).
It is better to buy a soldering iron in a specialized store. This way you will be sure of the quality. The soldering iron always comes with tips of various sizes, as well as a stand for secure fixation.
Correct welding can only be done with a high-quality device, so saving on it is not recommended.
How to weld pipes step by step
First, draw up a diagram for yourself, necessarily taking into account the size of the plots, the location of bends, tees and taps. It will be very convenient to follow it to save materials and assemble accuracy. In addition, the scheme will reduce the number of adhesions on weight.
Use a pipe cutter or wire cutter to cut sections to the required length, and then chamfer the ends with a chamfer. According to the standard, the chamfer has a length of 2-3 mm and a slope of 15 degrees. Do not forget to clean all cut edges of pipes from crumbs and burrs for more reliable welding.
To reliably connect the couplings to the ends of the pipes, you need to heat the soldering iron to 260 degrees, and then place all the elements in the sockets of the nozzles. The coupling is put on the pin on one side. The pipe is inserted into the sleeve on the other side. Total time heating is determined by the diameter of the element, as well as the thickness of its walls. Time is normalized international standards. It can be found out from special tables. You can also check your readiness for soldering yourself. You need to rotate the element on the heating surface: with the necessary heating, the coupling or pipe will rotate very smoothly and be easily removed from the nozzle.
Plastic pipe soldering process
The heated pipe and coupling should be connected immediately after removal from the soldering iron. Try to align them exactly relative to each other. Press as far as possible, but do not press too hard. You have about 5 seconds after connection to adjust the position of the mating elements. Then they will grab firmly.
Installation of taps and bypass
The bypass jumper is not a required component, but can come in handy in case of need for repair work ah on the installed dryer. Replacing the sealing gaskets at the points where the dryer is connected to the riser will necessarily require shutting off the water supply to it. This means submitting a special application to housing and communal services, as well as additional financial expenses. By including shut-off valves and a jumper in the connection diagram in advance, you can easily cut off the coil circuit from the main line in order to save money or in case of repairs.
When installing a jumper, you can use steel, copper, or so-called polypropylene pipes.
Working with metal involves labor-intensive welding, so it would be much more rational to make a bypass from modern plastic pipes.
To cut off and regulate the flow in the required areas, we need three ball valves. By installing one on the jumper, and two more on the supply and return water fittings, you can shut off the supply of hot water to the coil and cut it off from the riser. By adjusting the position of the tap on the jumper, you can increase or decrease the water supply in the circuit, and thus adjust the overall heating temperature.
Installation of a new heated towel rail
How to install a heated towel rail: stages
Installation and connection work is carried out in several stages:
- Cutting off the water supply.
- Removing the old coil. If it is connected with a thread to the riser, you need to unscrew it with adjustable wrenches. If the dryer is welded to the riser, we simply cut it off along with the pipe using a turbine.
- Installation of ball valves, jumpers.
- Screwing the Mayevsky tap into the bypass for comfortable ventilation of the system.
- Marking on the wall with a pencil places for future fastenings. Setting horizontal marks using a level indicator.
- Drilling holes according to special marks and driving dowels into them.
How to install a new heated towel rail yourself
Having aligned the heated towel rail so that the holes coincide, screw it on with a regular screwdriver. Do not forget to maintain the required distance from the wall to the pipes. We adjust it if there is a bracket with a stud.
- For reliable connection with the supply and return water fittings, we use fittings. They can be angular or straight. It is important to seal the threads with tow or other winding. Fum can be used to more reliably seal tapered threads. When installing the device, set a slight slope of the liner (from 5 to 10 mm). Tighten all union nuts, placing a cloth under the wrench in advance to prevent scratches. Place special sealing gaskets at the end of the nut. You need to tighten it smoothly and without much effort; if difficulties arise when turning the key, unscrew the connection and align the elements to be connected evenly. After screwing the nut all the way, tighten it a little, but do not overdo it so as not to strip the thread.
- Having completed the assembly, you can supply water to the heated towel rail. Open the water supply gradually. Open the valve on the jumper slightly to release air from the pipes. When water starts dripping, you can close it. Take a good look, iron everything with your hand threaded connections and welds to detect leaks.
How to connect an electric heated towel rail
Electric heated towel rail - household heating device, which does not require special insertion into the water supply system. Installation of such equipment is much simpler, but it is necessary to ensure complete electrical insulation, since in the bathroom, current leakage can pose a great threat to human life. Grounding should be done and also connected for reliable protection from any voltage surges.
As a rule, the outlet is located outside the bathroom, but a device without a thermostat can easily be plugged into an outlet in the bathroom. If necessary, it can be removed from the outlet at any time in order to reduce electricity consumption. The socket must have a cover for insulation and a special moisture-proof housing, and all wires are hidden in a groove.
It is prohibited to install a socket on a wall that faces the street, as this may cause short circuits due to the formation of condensation.
After reading this material, installing a heated towel rail will definitely not be scary for you!
A heated towel rail performs two functions: it serves as a place for drying wet things (and not just towels) and additionally heats the room. Old device models, if they were installed, do not satisfy modern users in many respects; they are increasingly being replaced with new ones. And during new construction, the presence of a heated towel rail is prerequisite bathroom arrangement.
Currently, you can purchase various types of devices that differ in many respects. In order for the choice to be informed and take into account the maximum number of features of bathrooms, heating and water supply systems, you should familiarize yourself with their features and brief operational characteristics.
| Distinctive characteristics | Technical indicators |
|---|---|
| Most often, products are made from thin-walled stainless steel pipes or steel pipes with an anti-corrosion decorative coating. By all indicators stainless steel meets existing requirements, it is a material that is very resistant to chemical compounds, does not oxidize, has high strength and thermal conductivity. According to its design characteristics, it can be used in any bathroom interior. In second place are devices made of stainless alloys. In terms of cost, they are superior to stainless steel ones, but in terms of performance indicators they are inferior to them. The main disadvantage, besides the high price, is that surfaces gradually oxidize, change shade, and react negatively to direct contact with aggressive chemical compounds. To prevent these phenomena, the surfaces are chrome-plated. | |
| Heating is done by water or electricity. Water can be taken from the heating system or from autonomous system hot water supply. Electrical ones are connected to an outlet. The most modern models can be combined: the user independently connects the devices to hot water or turns on electric heating. Each type has its own serious disadvantages, we will discuss them in detail below. | |
| Can be horizontal or vertical. The final choice is influenced by the existing hot water supply scheme, the size and layout of the premises and the style of interior design. |
heated towel rail
If desired, you can make a heated towel rail yourself from metal or plastic pipes. To make metal ones you will need professional equipment and devices. The plastic ones don't require much effort, but they fall short in many ways. Conclusion - you shouldn’t bother making something that can be bought in stores at an affordable price and with excellent quality indicators.
During runtime installation work it is necessary to unquestioningly comply with the provisions of SNiP 2-04-01-85. Very important point, which must be taken into account when installing heated towel rails in the bathroom. Especially it concerns apartment buildings With common system heating and vertical input risers. Incompetent installation of a heated towel rail can cause it to work poorly or disrupt the heating system or hot water supply in adjacent apartments, and you will have to answer for this. If you are replacing an old device with a new one and not redoing anything, then such work can be performed without danger. And if the device is being installed from scratch, then permission must be obtained from homeowners or service organizations.
SNiP 2-04-01-85. Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings
Unskilled actions without taking into account the peculiarities of hot water supply can cause an imbalance in the hydraulic balance of the entire home system. Below we will look at examples of common mistakes. And lastly, remember that heated towel rails will only work when there is coolant. If you are connected to a heating system, then they operate during the heating season, etc. If to a hot water supply system, then only when the hot water tap opens in the kitchen or bathroom. You will have to dry the towel constantly open tap, which is very expensive and uneconomical.
What are the connection diagrams for heated towel rails?
The device is at the same time a continuation of the vertical hot water supply riser.
The system does not increase hydraulic resistance, heating operates in design modes. The disadvantage is the difficulty of carrying out repair work; during repairs it is necessary to turn off the heating. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the pipe cross-section does not narrow in the fittings; their flow diameter cannot be less than the diameter of the riser.
Heated towel rail - hot water riser section.png
It is strictly forbidden to install shut-off valves in front of such a heated towel rail - the entire vertical riser will turn off. Installation of shut-off valves is permitted only if there is a bypass of the same diameter as the riser.
The bypass cross-section cannot be narrowed for two reasons. Firstly, it will worsen the heating system. Secondly, it will not have any effect beneficial effect. The heat consumption in heated towel rails is so small that the existing circulation is quite sufficient. Of course, installing a shut-off valve on the bypass is also prohibited.
Connecting a heated towel rail to the DHW. Scheme
Diagonal or vertical serial connection of the coolant to a vertical riser.
Water supply and drainage is carried out in places of the riser of different heights. The most simple circuit, shut-off valves can be installed at the inlet and outlet of the device. With their help, if necessary, the heating temperature of the heated towel rail is adjusted.
During connection, you must ensure that all pipelines of the device are below the insertion point, otherwise air may accumulate in them. If for some reason it is not possible to fulfill this condition, then a device for bleeding air (Mayevsky tap) must be installed in the highest place. It is advisable to thermally insulate the supply pipes; the maximum distance from the riser should not exceed 4.5 meters.
Connection with offset bypass.
The method is used when connecting devices to old heating systems. To simplify the work and not have to change the riser, a bypass is attached to it, and then a heated towel rail is connected. To improve heating, it is recommended to increase the nominal diameter of the pipelines.
Bottom connection.
The coolant inlet and outlet are located below at the same level. Advantages - the appearance is somewhat improved, the work is simplified. Disadvantages - the likelihood of air locks. It is used quite often, but requires attention during operation. A narrowed bypass improves coolant circulation in the heated towel rail, but may negatively affect functionality heating system. Use it with caution.
Options for connection diagrams for ladder heated towel rails
Practical advice. If you connect the heated towel rail to an already existing system, then we do not recommend either reducing or increasing the diameters of the central hot water pipelines. Such measures should be provided for at the design stage.
What not to do when connecting a device?
- Make a large “hump” in the area of the upper eyeliner. This is what some craftsmen do in order to disguise the pipe under a hinged or suspended ceiling bathroom. Small air bubbles are constantly circulating in the water; over time, they will inevitably accumulate in this loop. It is not advisable to install a Mayevsky valve for bleeding air under the ceiling.
- The insertion point of the lower outlet into the riser is located above the bottom of the heated towel rail. In this case, the movement of water is slowed down due to the pressure difference between cold and hot water. The water that has cooled in the heated towel rail sinks and, instead of entering the riser, is forced to rise again. At best, such a heated towel rail works very inefficiently, at worst it does not work at all. The presence of two loops on one device at once most often becomes the reason for the complete failure of the heated towel rail.
Conclusion - don’t rush to make a decision. Before purchasing a heated towel rail, check the existing engineering system, take measurements, think about possible installation locations. Do not forget about our advice, select options that will not disrupt the operation of the existing heating system and at the same time function effectively. And last but not least, pay attention to the design characteristics. If, of course, the heated towel rail is installed for use, and not for admiration.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Step 1. Turn off the water supply and install two faucets on the riser. One for the inlet, the second for the outlet of water from the heated towel rail. At the same time, immediately keep in mind that the taps must be at the level of the supply pipes, do not allow elbows to appear. About this typical mistake we mentioned above. The taps should not change the diameter of the riser downward; the distance between them should be equal to or exceed the dimensions of the device.
Practical advice. It is recommended to install taps at the points where pipelines connect to the riser only in cases where there is access to them after closing the supply networks with decorative elements.
The risers are closed in most cases plasterboard boards, they will have to have special inspection doors. The work is quite complex. If you do not have the opportunity to provide access to the taps on the riser, then it is permissible not to install them there, but to mount them directly at the outlet near the heated towel rail. This makes it much easier and more convenient; you can quickly close the tap if emergency situations. Today there are small cranes with beautiful design, you can choose options that will not negatively affect the appearance. In addition, the valves are located behind vertical pipes heated towel rails and are almost completely obscured by them.
Step 2. Mark the pipelines, do the work efficiently, don’t waste a few extra minutes of time, it will take much longer to correct mistakes later.
How is marking done?
- Draw horizontal lines on the wall at the level of the taps; pipelines should be installed along them in the future. Draw lines below the level; they should all be strictly horizontal. The functionality of the heated towel rail largely depends on the quality of the markings.
- Mark the position of the device and draw two vertical lines on the wall along its dimensions. At this stage, you can still change the position of the heated towel rail; choose the most suitable one for it. comfortable spot. But remember that it is not recommended to change the horizontal position of the water supply and drainage pipelines. If this is necessary, then at least avoid knees, let the difference in height be smooth, this will allow air bubbles to remove themselves. As a last resort, consider installing a Mayevsky valve to bleed air. But practitioners do not recommend installing a large number of additional fittings; the more there is, the higher the likelihood that some element will fail or leak. The dimensions of the heated towel rail circuit are indicated on the packaging.
Step 3. Secure construction clamps along the contour of the device. They are fixed with plastic dowels. Using a corner, adjust the height of the clamps; this will be the distance of the heated towel rail from the wall. Recommended distances are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions and depend on the diameter of the pipes. The number of clamps is at least four, if there are concerns about strength interior partitions, then install more fasteners. The clamps must be supplied together with the heated towel rail.
The clamps are fixed according to the markings
Step 4. Fix the heated towel rail on the clamps and check its position with a level. If there are deviations from the horizontal, then correct the position; the clamps allow you to do this without problems. Note whether the centers of the inlet and outlet holes coincide with the drawn diagram.
Important. When pre-hanging the heated towel rail, take into account the condition of the walls.
If you plan to finish them in the future, then increase the distance between the rough wall and the device by the thickness of the finish. For plastering and further painting, the magnification is minimal, for finishing plasterboard boards maximum.
Step 5. If the wiring is hidden, then you need to trench the wall along the drawn lines. At the same time, prepare recesses for pipe connection sockets.
Step 6. Insert plastic pipes into the prepared places, connect one end to the taps installed on the riser, and the other to the sockets for connecting the heated towel rail. To seal connections, use FUM tape; it has excellent performance in all respects. In addition, unlike traditional tow for sealing, FUM tape does not need to be tightly tightened. And all modern fittings are made of fragile alloys and react very negatively to high forces.
Step 7 Make recesses for the installation sockets of the pipelines. They are fixed to the wall; the fixation elements must go deeper into the wall. Place them on the surface and beat off the outline, increasing its size by a few centimeters. Using a hammer drill, make neat indentations. Take your time, try on the sockets several times and thus control the installation depth.
Important. Don't forget to take into account the thickness of the wall finish.
The depth of the hole should be such that after finishing the walls in the bathroom, only the end of the threaded part of the socket will be on the surface.
If the hole is deeper, then you need to correct the situation like this:
- drill holes for dowels;
- level the sockets, secure them with dowels, make sure they are on the same line and at the required distance;
- insert pieces of bricks or wooden wedges into the gap between the wall and the sockets;
- place the heated towel rail against the wall and check again that the sockets are positioned correctly;
- Cover the installation areas with solution.
Do not forget to close the inlet holes with plugs immediately after installing the sockets.
Step 8 Cover the grooves with pipes with gypsum or other mortar. The choice of material depends on the method of finishing the walls in the bathroom.
After the solution has hardened, begin covering the wall with ceramic tiles. Everything is ready - you can start hanging the heated towel rail.
Hanging a heated towel rail
Step 1. Remove the plugs from the sockets and clean them of dirt.
Step 2. Check all connections of the heated towel rail and tighten them with a hex wrench.
Practical advice. Due to the fact that sometimes it is necessary to adjust the position of the connecting coupling with force, the rubber gaskets do not always withstand. We recommend that you replace them with plastic or paronite ones; such gaskets can be clamped with great force, which facilitates the process of adjusting the position of the limit switches and eliminates the occurrence of leaks.
Step 3. Screw decorative reflectors onto the transitions, wrap a sealant around the threads, press it tightly and only then screw it onto the threads. Make sure that the tape does not slip or slip. If such a phenomenon is detected, then unscrew the adapter and repeat all operations from the beginning. Install the adapters in a vertical position. Make sure that the top terminals are at the same distance from the wall.
Step 4. Install gaskets inside the adapters, place a heated towel rail and tighten the nuts. If the design of your device has its own fastenings, then use a sharp pencil to mark the installation locations of the dowels. If the structure is fixed on construction clamps, then we described the method of their installation above. Accurately mark the position of the dowels. The adapters have eccentrics to adjust the position, but they can only correct an error of a few millimeters. Live the device.
Step 5. Unscrew the lower nuts and remove the heated towel rail. Drill holes in the wall for the mounting dowels. Work very carefully, do not allow cracks to appear on the ceramic tiles. Remember that the perforation can only be turned on after the tiles have gone all the way through. The length of the holes for the dowels should be several centimeters greater than the size of the plastic parts, this will make their insertion much easier.
We cut off the protruding parts of the dowels with a knife flush with the tiles
Step 6. Again, place the heated towel rail against the wall and tighten it a little with nuts. Secure its position with dowels. There is no need to drive the dowels all the way in until they are all inserted. Thanks to this technology, it will be possible to slightly correct errors when marking and drilling holes. Let the metal part of the fastener go in a little at an angle, it's not scary. The main thing is that after tightening they will all sit in their places.
Practical advice. The stops have two or three holes for dowels, but there is no need to install so many fasteners. Only attach them to holes that are easy to reach. There is no heavy load on the heated towel rail; one dowel can easily withstand it.
Work only with sharp drills and serviceable tools. To reduce contamination of the floor while drilling holes, place pieces of paper underneath. There is one more effective method Avoid contaminating the floor - while drilling, keep the hose from the vacuum cleaner turned on near the drill. But such work must be done with an assistant.
Step 7 Tighten the bottom nuts of the heated towel rail until they stop. Turn on the water and check the tightness of the connections and heating efficiency.
To minimize the risk of air locks forming, the first switch-on should be performed in the following sequence:
- the outlet tap must be closed, open the water inlet tap to the heated towel rail;
- place a bowl on the floor under the outlet pipe and slightly loosen the fastening nut;
- wait until the air leaves the system and tighten the nut tightly;
- open the outlet valve and check the tightness of the threaded connections.
The heated towel rail should warm up. If its temperature does not drop over time, everything is fine, hot water circulates. If the heating decreases, then you need to repeat the process of removing air pockets.
White heated towel rail with side connection
Video - Installing a vertical heated towel rail
The bathroom will become much more convenient if you equip it with such a functional device as a heated towel rail.
Its installation allows you to solve several significant problems at once:
- drying towels and small items;
- maintaining optimal temperature conditions;
- preventing the formation of dampness.
Installation of a water heated towel rail
First you need to assemble it - install shut-off valves with detachable connection, which in the future will ensure easy replacement of the heated towel rail or elimination of some defects without draining the riser. The assembled dryer can be attached to the wall anywhere by connecting pipes from the riser to it.
Important. When installing a heated towel rail, you must act strictly in accordance with the instructions supplied with it.
Connection order:
Features of installing a combined heated towel rail
Since water dryers usually work only during the heating period, many residents of high-rise buildings solve this problem by installing a universal heated towel rail, which can operate from a heating system or hot water supply, and from electricity. To do this, you will need a drying ladder, in the lower left inlet of which an electric heater with a thermostat is mounted. The installation of the heated towel rail itself is carried out in the manner described above.
Thus, the following scheme of work is obtained. When closing the shut-off valves and filling the device with water through the left upper inlet (where the Mayevsky tap is installed), the heated towel rail can be heated by electricity. When you disconnect it from the outlet and open the shut-off valves, heating will be provided hot water from the central system.
Important. Connecting an electric heated towel rail requires fulfilling some requirements regarding electrical wiring.
The energy consumption of such devices is quite high (1 kW or more), which requires a separate outlet, which is connected with a cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 square meters and powered directly from the electrical panel. This wiring line must be protected with a separate “automatic device”.
It is necessary to provide space for a grounded socket for the heated towel rail
A very important point is grounding. Manufacturers took care of connecting ready-made heated towel rails and those manufactured independently (with a “ladder” equipment with a heating element with a thermostat) to the protective grounding. Therefore, it is enough just to install a special socket with grounding, laying a three-core wire. If there is no grounding in the apartment, then you can perform “grounding”, when the ground wire and the neutral in the wiring are bridged with each other. This re-grounding must be done as close to the electrical panel as possible.
This is how to install and connect a heated towel rail. Before starting work, you need to decide whether you can handle this work on your own or not. Even if you decide not to do it yourself, you will at least understand the installation sequence, which will help you control the quality of the work of hired specialists.
There is a heated towel rail in every bathroom.
Installing a heated towel rail is not a difficult task, which every man who has no experience in this matter can cope with.
We will tell you how you can do this yourself.
You won't have to turn to professional plumbers for help if you read this article.
Preparatory stage
What you need to do first is decide on the design.
It should not only be comfortable, but also beautiful, and also choose the mounting method and select the optimal size hollow products for the battery.
It is required for:
- drying small personal items,
- reducing the percentage of humidity,
- reducing dampness in the room,
- creating a certain microclimate.
On this moment Among ordinary people, models of heated towel rails in the shape of the letters “P” and “M” are in particular demand.
But despite such preferences our compatriots, there is a wide assortment on the market, there are samples in the shape of a “ladder” and corner specimens.
It's no secret that each product has its own characteristics, mounting options and cost.
When choosing the product you need, you need to take into account a large number of different factors.
Not always your favorite model may be ideal for installation in your bathroom (read about premium bathroom partitions in the article).
The most important point- these are the dimensions of the room and, of course, the diameter of the pipes.
For small bath It is best to buy M-shaped and U-shaped dryers.
In large and spacious rooms Telescopic, rotating samples and “ladders” will look more advantageous.
Products can be quite impressive in size or very small. I would especially like to note the corner structures.
Despite their compact size, they look very impressive. In addition, these devices perform the functions assigned to them “excellently”.
We will not talk for long about beauty and attractiveness appearance various heated towel rails, and we will pay more attention to the fastening elements with which they are installed.
Fittings (about crimp high pressure written) are playing important role in creating an aesthetic appearance of the entire structure.
Pipes hidden in the wall look especially nice, while all fasteners (including fittings) are also hidden.
However, this type of installation is considered complex and is used very rarely. More often, heated towel rails are attached to external pipes. In this situation, the fasteners are open.
What fasteners are needed
If you decide to replace a towel dryer in your bathroom, you need to take a responsible approach not only to the choice of material from which the product is made, but also to the fastening elements.
Since the beauty, functionality of the design, and the overall practicality of the entire drying system as a whole will largely depend on this.
Perhaps those who are faced with assembling a device for the first time do not quite understand what fittings are.
Information for the uninformed:
- fittings are small parts (most often chrome-plated), which are very difficult to do without during assembly.
The choice of fastening components should exactly match the design you like and the material from which the heating device is made.
The optimal option is when the entire device is made of the same material.
Types of fittings
- Sectional extension cord.
A representative of this category will help you, if necessary, adjust the distance from the heating device to the wall to which it will be attached.These fittings act as a kind of bracket, the connection of which requires at least several fasteners.
Extended collapsible fittings are connected only in front of the pipe bends.
This modification of connectors has one minor flaw - they have too long threads.
However, this problem can be quickly resolved(threaded fittings for copper pipes described in the article).
How?Excess grooves can be quickly and easily removed (cut off or sharpened).
- Rewinding made of polymer materials.
This type of fitting eliminates the possibility of play at the adjusting connections.If the winding is done correctly, it will take the look you want.
It is also worth taking into account the following fact: the above-mentioned part will not compact over time.
- Angle tap.
It is used to connect a tubular radiator directly to a central heating pipe.Depending on the size of the hollow products used, you can use either standard modifications of the corners or choose the option that you find more convenient.
With the help of corner fittings, you can change the direction of the pipes at your discretion.
- Tee.
This simple connecting element will be very useful to you if you need to make a number of branches from the central highway in different directions.Using this fitting, you can directly connect the heating device and the riser.
At the same time, do not forget to install a bypass.The bypass line will allow you to turn off the heated towel rail for a while, without creating any obstacles to the operation of other heating devices.
Cross fittings.
With their help, the system is branched along only two different courses.
- American fitting.
If you need to dismantle the structure, this can be done using a kind of crane called an “American”.It is very difficult to overestimate the ease of use of this fastener - you will not need to completely disable the system.
It is enough just to block this device, unscrew the nut and remove the heater.
- Connections in this case come in several types:
- nut - fitting,
- nut - nut,
- fitting - fitting.
- Clamping device.
Implements similar functions as the “American” one.Thanks to this coupling, you can quickly disassemble and reassemble any connection.
This part has one feature - it has different diameters on different sides.This property is used when there is a need to join pipes of different sizes. The thread of the clamping ring can be either external or internal.
- Reflectors.
These fittings do not allow moisture to seep into the fastening (read how to fix a leak in a pipe with water). - Limiters.
They are used to seal pipes
When purchasing chrome plated fasteners for tubular radiators, need to Special attention pay attention to the quality of the thread.
The high quality of the product can be judged by the uniformity of the grooves.
Another feature of non-chrome-plated connections is that they quickly undergo the rusting process.
Your best decision will be to purchase a heating device along with fittings.
This way, you will save yourself from searching for the parts you need or exchanging existing but incorrectly sized parts.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Since the heated towel rail is mounted directly into the water supply system, it is very important to ensure that the device functions correctly.
If you make mistakes in your work, then not only the drying itself, but also the plumbing system may suffer.
In general, the installation process is not difficult. And it consists of the following: we supply water to one side of the device, and ensure its outflow from the other end.
That's it, the work is finished. Are you wondering how much all this will cost?
ABOUT specific figures there is no point in talking.
Much depends on the complexity of the work being performed, the type of coil chosen, etc.
Please note the maximum distances between the wall and the heating device, which must be observed:
- 5-7 centimeters - if the diameter of the pipes is more than 2.5 centimeters
- 3.5-4 centimeters - with a pipe cross-section of less than 2.5 centimeters.
In order to avoid subjecting the walls to heavy loads that can be caused by hot thermal deformation, the structure cannot be fixed rigidly.
The coil is hung on mounting brackets.
After completing all work, you need to check all connections for leaks. If a leak is discovered, it must be repaired immediately.
Basic moments
- The system may only use components that are made of the same metal.
Otherwise, electrolytic corrosion will inevitably occur.
To prevent this from happening, only Teflon gaskets are used to seal connections.
- If you want your heated towel rail to work all year round, it must be connected to a hot water supply.
- When connecting a ladder type model, it is better to use the method side connection.
In this case, it is necessary to maintain an interaxial distance of 50 cm. - Would you like to connect a heating device? to the heating system?
A combined model is suitable for these purposes.
Worth knowing! The device must be connected to the riser using “American wires”.
Important point! When carrying out installation work, all docking units must be carefully insulated. If you decide to “burrow” the pipe into the wall, it will be incredibly difficult to fix leaks later.
Watch the video to see how to install a heated towel rail in a new building with your own hands.