How to make a hipped roof with your own hands. Rafter system of a hipped roof: main features of the frame 4 coal roof

Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Even though they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple “box” more interesting view. Secondly, because they are durable and reliable. And let the rafter system of four pitched roof one of the most difficult, it can be developed and made with your own hands.

Types of hipped roofs

Hip roofs are the most expensive and difficult to construct. But despite this, they were and remain popular. And all because they look more attractive than all other types of roofing, they have a high mechanical strength, resist wind and snow loads well. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks “more solid” than any other.

Even a simple “box” under a 4-pitch roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitch roofs: hip and hip. The hip roof is suitable for square buildings, the hip one - for rectangular ones. IN hip roof all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

The classic hip roof has two slopes in the form of trapezoids that converge at the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that are adjacent to the extreme points of the ridge beam.

Despite the fact that there are four slopes in any case, the design and calculation of these roofs are different. The assembly order is also different.

Half-hip

Hip roofing is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several more varieties of it. For example, half-hip ones - Danish and Dutch.

Half-hip roofs - Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows you to use the under-roof space as a living space. Of course, compared to a full second floor, there is less living space, but the construction costs are also not so high.

Slope angle and roof height

The angle of inclination of a hipped roof is determined based on snow and wind loads in your region. The higher the snow load, the higher the ridge must be raised so that the slope is steeper and the snow does not linger in large volumes. At strong winds On the contrary, the ridge is lowered lower to reduce the area of the slopes and, consequently, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 of the height of the first (or only) floor.

Practical considerations come in two directions. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as a living space, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable to be in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If your height is higher than 175 cm, you will have to raise the bar.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be taken into account.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can “work”. If you have a specific preference for the type roofing material, take this factor into account. This determines the height to which the rafter system of a hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Hip type hip roof rafter system

If they do hipped roof, most often this is a hip roof. Let's talk about it first. central part rafter system repeats the system one to one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed “in place” - on the roof; two people are enough for such work. Layered roof trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but to lift and install ready-made trusses, you need either equipment (a crane) or a team of four or more people.

The main differences between the rafter system of a hip roof are in those places where the rafters are shortened (rafter half-legs) and a hip is formed - triangular slopes. Here diagonal rafters are installed, which are also called rafters. They rest on the outer or inner corners of the building and are longer than ordinary rafter legs. Diagonal rafters must be addressed Special attention, since they bear one and a half load (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, joining them in width using nails. Also to support diagonal rafter legs additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a truss block.

Another rafter system for a hip-type hipped roof is distinguished by the fact that the Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the building, and not just along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not just on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat- element of the roofing system of a building. It is a beam or log laid on top along the perimeter outer wall. Serves as the extreme lower support for the rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, slanted (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal rafters of a hip roof usually exceeds the standard length of lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we get a beam required length, we increase its load-bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand greater loads than a solid beam of the same section. And one more point: spliced beams for slanted rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper, and you don't need to look for special material.

If spliced beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually secured by installing struts and/or trusses (racks).

If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one strut is sufficient, which rests on the upper part of the beam.
For lengths from 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional stand or truss is installed. These supports are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the length of the rafters.
When the length of the inclined rafter is more than 9 meters, a third, intermediate support is needed - a stand that supports the middle of the purlin.

Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam resting on two adjacent external walls. A stand rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (the slopes are installed if necessary).

A truss truss is usually not considered, but is made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150*100 mm, for the racks - 100*100 mm, for the slopes - 50*100 mm. It could be timber suitable section or spliced beams.

Supporting the rafter leg

The upper end of the diagonal rafter legs rests on the ridge beam. The exact execution of this assembly depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is only one purlin, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the rafter frame. If such an outlet is too large, it is then trimmed. But it’s not worth making it shorter - growing it is much more difficult and expensive. The slanted diagonal legs will rest at this point.

The rafters are cut at the desired angle and joined on the console. Fastened with nails. The connection can be strengthened using metal overlay plates.

If there are two ridge spans (done if an attic-type living space is planned), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

If spliced boards are used, a truss is required, which rests on the outriggers of the ridge girders. Diagonal rafters are trimmed and supported on a truss post.
If timber is used, a crimp is installed at the point of support - a piece of board at least 50 mm thick. The board is attached with nails to two purlins, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

Bottom part slanted rafter legs are trimmed horizontally and attached to the mauerlat or trim board. For greater reliability of the unit, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).

Fastening is done with nails on both sides; if necessary, it can be additionally secured with wire twists or clamps.

How to attach sprigs and half-legs

Shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached to the installed diagonal rafter legs on one side, and on the other side - rafters that form a hip. They must be placed in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the external rafters (preferably in the direction of decreasing the pitch).

Typically, shortened rafters are trimmed and secured with 2-3 nails on both sides. This type of fastening is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it “correctly”, under each rafter you need to make a “notch” - a notch no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are trimmed, installed in the desired position, and the desired contour is drawn on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). A recess is cut out along the resulting contour, into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is secured with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to do. But the load-bearing capacity of such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is much simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

The optimal way to attach the spigots and half-legs to the mowing beam can be considered as fastening them to nails with additional installation cranial bars (see picture above). For this, a beam with a cross section of 50*50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this version, the beam becomes an I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity and increases its load-bearing capacity.

How to fasten the lower ends of the rafters

The method of fastening the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of rafter system of the hipped roof is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, and what kind of scheme is used. System with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings for which thrust loads are contraindicated - wooden, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fastenings. They consist of two parts. One is installed on the embedded board, the second - on the rafters. They are connected to each other movably - using a long slot or plate.

With this device, when the load changes, the roof “plays back” - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no thrust loads; the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred vertically downwards to the walls. This fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that arise with a complex roof structure (with junctions in the form of the letter G or T).

Rigid fastening can be done in different ways - with a cutout for the Mauerlat/tying board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually done with nails; it can be reinforced with metal plates and corners.

The connection with the cutout is made if the roof has a hipped roof with an outlet - overhangs. Usually the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they are extended by adding boards that are nailed right through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make the overhangs as long as you want without overspending on materials.

Danish half hip roof

The rafter system of a Danish-type hipped roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference is in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, a support board with a thickness of at least 5 cm is packed. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the support board is your choice. But the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will be. If the half-hip area is large, you will have to calculate the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

But the low-lowered support board allows you to place horizontal window sufficient area. This is beneficial if there is a living space under a hipped hip roof.

To prevent the crimp (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) from bending from downward loads, a short piece is installed - a piece of the same board that is nailed to the post supporting the ridge beam. The same stops are made on the edges of the grooves, securing the short ones well with nails (installation step is staggered every 5-10 cm).

With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the outer pair of rafter legs. Two methods of amplification are used:

The outer rafters are made double.
Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the strut rests on the bench or stand. They are fastened with nails, and the joints are reinforced by installing cuttings of boards.

If the house is rectangular in shape and the hips are not too wide, you can either install braces or make the outer rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the rafter system of a half-hip Danish type hip roof is assembled in exactly the same way as described above.

Construction of a 4 pitched hipped roof using the example of a gazebo

For a square gazebo 4.5*4.5 meters we made hip roof, covered with soft tiles. The slope angle chosen was “floor material”, taking into account snow and wind loads - 30°. Since the structure is small, it was decided to do simple system(in the picture below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. For rafter lengths up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A 90*140 mm beam was used for the strapping.

We assembled the rafter system on the ground, secured it to support posts, then installed a continuous flooring made of, then -.

First, we assembled the harness that will be attached to the support posts. Next, we installed rafters that rest on the middle of the frame. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we place a stand, on top of which the rafter legs will be joined. In this version, this rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for larger houses - this rack can remain.

We take a board of the required section and lean it against the stand in the place where they will connect (depending on the desired angle of inclination). We mark how it should be cut (at the top, at the joint and where it joins the harness). We cut off everything unnecessary, try it on again, and adjust if necessary. Next, using this blank, we make three more of the same kind.

Now you can begin to assemble the rafter system of the hipped hipped roof. The most questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The best way- reliable and not too complicated - take a piece of timber of a suitable cross-section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).

The size of the edges is according to the cross-section of the rafter legs

Having fixed all four central elements of the rafter system with nails, we perform the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies using the template we made, and mount it.

Using the same principle, we make half-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be further strengthened with corners or metal plates, then the rafter system of the hipped roof will be more reliable and you will not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.

We install the assembled system on the gazebo posts, fasten it with nails, corners, and secure it with slopes. After this, you can install the sheathing (in this case, solid) and lay the roofing material.

The hipped roof is very popular look roofing, allowing you to give the house an original look. It is often used in projects of fairly large houses, as it looks more compact and neater than a gable roof with gables. The design of a hipped roof can be simple or include various elements - attic and dormer windows, for example, greatly enliven the structure and make it unique.

A hipped roof differs favorably from a gable roof not only in appearance. It protects the building much more reliably from rain, snow and wind. The design of such a roof is more complex than that of a gable roof, but for small house or gazebos, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is not particularly difficult.

Types of hipped roof

A simple hip roof consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular hip roofs. During its construction, methods of making layered rafters and hipped rafters are used.

Hip roof for a country house

The half-hip roof consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two cut-off hip roofs, under which there is a pediment. This design allows you to create an attic floor with large panoramic windows in the attic and does not reduce the reliability of the roof.

A hip roof differs from a simple hip roof in that all four of its slopes are absolutely identical, they are isosceles triangles converging at one point.

A complex hipped roof may contain vertical attic windows with gables, valleys and connections to other elements of the building. To perform such a roof, it is better to resort to the services of specialists or use finished project and calculation of materials.

Elements of a hipped roof

A hip roof generally consists of the same elements as a gable roof, but its design features require the installation of additional frame components. The elements of a hipped roof include:

Mauerlat - timber laid on the upper part external walls and taking the main load from the roof;
Bedding - internal support beams laid on load-bearing walls or columns;
Rafters - side and diagonal, or slanted. The side rafters form a trapezoidal roof slope, the slopes form a hip slope. The hip roof has no side rafters;
Racks and trusses - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
A ridge beam or purlin is a horizontal support for the rafters at the top of the roof. It is placed on racks and secured. The hip roof is made without ridge beams;
Tightenings or crossbars – horizontal elements connecting the side rafters and preventing them from moving apart;
Narozhniki - elements laid on diagonal rafters and forming the frame of the slope;
Struts and wind beams are struts that increase the strength of the roof and its ability to withstand loads;
Fillers are boards that form the necessary overhang of the roof and are attached to the rafters in their lower part.

Depending on the roof structure, other elements may also be used, such as sheathing, protective strips, eaves over windows and porches.

For calculation required quantity materials, you need to draw a sketch of the roof in advance, decide on its shape and size, then make a scale drawing and calculate the required material.

Technology for constructing a hipped roof

In order for the load from the rafter system, roofing and snow swept onto the roof to winter period, was evenly distributed, longitudinal elements were laid on top of all load-bearing walls - mauerlat and planks. They are made from timber 100x150 mm or 150x150 mm, and in some cases from reinforced concrete beams. When building a house on your own, wood is usually used - this material is lighter and more convenient to process, so we will consider it. The timber is placed on the walls and secured with anchor pins. Studs are installed during the construction of walls, deepening them into the masonry. IN wooden buildings The upper crown of the frame serves as the supports. Between the Mauerlat and the wall, waterproofing must be done using two layers of roofing material. The beds are placed on load-bearing partitions on which the support posts will be installed.
If there are no internal partitions in the house or they are not located in the center of the roof, the racks are placed on reinforced floor beams. Floors are usually made of 50x200 mm boards. The beam on which the racks are installed carries an increased load, so it is made of two spliced boards or 100x200 mm timber.
Install the support posts on the beams or floor beams. They are leveled using a plumb line or a water level, after which they are secured with temporary supports made of boards on self-tapping screws. The racks are attached to the floor or ceiling using a corner and metal plates. Racks for a simple hip roof are placed in one row in the center of the roof, under the ridge. The distance between them should not be more than two meters. To erect a hip roof, the racks are placed on the diagonal lines at an equal distance from the corner. The racks should form a rectangle that follows the shape of the perimeter of the house. The height of the racks is determined according to the roof design.
Purlins are laid on the racks. For a simple hip roof, this is a ridge purlin laid on posts to form the ridge of the roof. For a hip roof, the purlins are placed on racks in the form of a rectangle. They are secured to a corner and screws.
Start installing the rafters. The side rafters on a simple hip roof are installed similarly to the layered rafters of a gable roof: a board with a width similar to the width of the rafter board is applied to the ridge beam in the area of the outer post - 150 mm. A template is made from it. The board for the template can be taken not so thick and heavy; 25 mm thickness is enough. On the template, mark the top cut, with which the rafter will rest on the ridge beam, and cut it out. Having attached the template to the ridge, they also mark the lower cut, with which the rafter will rest on the mauerlat. Ready template applied to the ridge girder in the places where the side rafters are installed, checking the need to adjust each rafter in place. If the template fits perfectly, the rafters are marked and cut according to the template in the required quantity. They are installed on the ridge girder and mauerlat and secured with corners and screws or with brackets. The pitch of the rafters is from 0.5 to 1.5 meters.
Diagonal rafters carry an increased load, so they are made of two boards joined together in thickness. The diagonal rafter template is made in a similar way. Diagonal rafters rest with their upper side on the post, and their lower side on the corner of the mauerlat, so cuts in the boards must be made at an angle of 45 degrees to the plane of the board.
The distance between the diagonal rafters on the hip slopes is filled with flanges. They are installed with a pitch equal to the calculated pitch of the rafters and supported top part on the diagonal rafter, and the bottom - on the mauerlat. They usually use a less thick board, since the splices do not bear a significant load. A notch is made in the upper part of the board, and according to this pattern, half of the splices are made, the other half in a mirror image. The lower cuts are marked in place, and the ends of the splices, forming the overhang, are trimmed along the stretched cord after installation.
The lower quarter of the diagonal rafters experiences the greatest load, so vertical supports - trusses - are placed under them. These racks are placed in the same way as ridge racks on reinforced beams - when preliminary calculating the floors, you need to lay them right away. Struts are placed under the side rafters, resting their lower edge against the beam or floor beams, and the upper edge against the rafter leg at an angle of about 45 degrees to the horizontal.
They carry out the sheathing. On a hipped roof, you can use almost any roofing material, and the choice between or is a matter of taste and the features of their installation. Often, soft tiles are used as a covering for complex roofs; in this case, the sheathing is made of solid plywood. The question is decided depending on the design of the house - when installing a residential attic in it, insulation is necessary, but if the attic is cold, it is not easy to build a hipped roof with your own hands, but with good skills in working with wood and roofing materials, this is a completely doable task. For a better understanding of the construction process, you can also watch the video.

When building your own home, a lot of responsibility falls on your shoulders. You have to deal with a lot of issues and participate in the construction process. After all reliable roof overhead will ensure a comfortable life.

Difficulties always attract people. It’s not for nothing that they say: “We are not looking for easy ways.” This happens in construction too. The hipped roof has complex shape, giving the building special kind. This architecture attracts many. This type is especially popular when building country houses. On cottage a good option would be to build a hipped roof.

In this article

View

The location of 4 slopes on different sides gives your home solid look. Often the slopes have different shapes: a couple of them are in the shape of a triangle and play the role of a pediment, and some are given the shape of a trapezoid.

Difficulties with a hipped roof during calculations and installation scare off many people who want it, but if you do not doubt your abilities, then you can safely carry out the construction.

Design advantages

A do-it-yourself hipped roof has the following advantages:

the absence of gables makes the roof more durable and resistant to gusts of wind. This type of roofing is suitable for areas with windy weather conditions;
the presence of 4 slopes copes more effectively with the drainage of melt and rain water, as well as snow;
the attic space becomes more spacious, which is ideal for the location of the attic;
The construction of a 4-pitched roof will cost no more than other types.

Types

When making a hipped roof with your own hands, you can distinguish several of its subtypes:

hip - is classic version. It has 2 triangular hips and 2 trapezoid-shaped slopes;
half-hip - has slightly shortened slopes. Excellent for use in the attic;
tent - made in the form of a pyramid. Ideal for a square building.

Project

Before proceeding directly to construction, it is necessary to create a roofing project in order to avoid making mistakes in the future. How to build a roof? Step-by-step instructions will help in this matter. Having familiarized ourselves with the design of the house, we proceed to the following:

We calculate the slope angle of the slopes based on indicators such as wind load, precipitation in your area, and type of roofing material. In areas with strong gusts of wind, it is advisable to make the angle of inclination less than 30 degrees, thus reducing windage. In areas that are constantly covered by precipitation, the desired roof angle is not lower than 65 degrees to prevent the accumulation of snow and water. In areas with a more or less stable climate, a roof of 40 to 50 degrees is ideal. For each type of material, the manufacturer indicates the lowest operating angle;
We calculate the height of the ridge using a number of simple geometry formulas.

Rafter system design

The rafter system of the hipped roof forms the roof frame. It consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat - a beam located along the perimeter of the walls and distributing the load on them. The hip roof has 4 beams. If the house is wooden, then the mauerlat will be the blocks of the upper crowns. In a brick house, a concrete belt is created over the walls, into which special studs are embedded. The Mauerlat is then attached to them;
the ridge beam, or purlin, is located above all the elements. The upper part of the rafters is attached to it. For a 4-pitched roof it is less than the length of the house;
rafter legs - boards that create the geometry of the slopes. Their cross section is 50 x 150 mm. For a hipped roof, 3 types of rafters are used: slanted, ordinary, and external. Installation of ordinary rafter legs is carried out on slopes in the form of a trapezoid. Sloping rafters are made from more durable material, since the load on them is greater. The upper part of the mowers rests on the ridge run, and the lower part on the corner of the mauerlat. The hip is formed by external rafters. They focus on the rafter legs diagonally and the support beam;

lying - timber that lays a supporting wall located inside the building. Functionally, the bench transfers weight and distributes it to the foundation;
vertical supports are racks, mounting occurs on a lying surface. They serve as a support for the middle of the rafters and purlins;
rafter leg, or strut. Its installation angle is 45 degrees to the rafters. The emphasis is placed on the rack. It is used to ensure that the rafters do not bend, to transfer part of the weight to the load-bearing wall;
the sprengel is used to support sloping rafters. This is a vertical support, similar to a rack. Truss trusses are used most often;
tightening, or crossbar, are bars in a horizontal position that grip rafter pairs in the upper and lower parts;
fillies - boards that extend the rafters and protect the walls from dampness, forming a roof overhang.

Installation procedure

A hipped roof begins with the installation of a mauerlat, which we lay around the perimeter of the walls. Its cross-section is 150 x 150 mm. When placing it, it is necessary to control its level. The beam should be located 5–7 cm from the edge of the wall. We fasten using pre-walled studs. The nuts are screwed on top. Such a beam will connect the structure of the rafters and the walls of the house into a single whole.

To install the racks, you need floor beams and beams. The size of the timber of such elements is 100 x 200 mm. Installation of supports is carried out vertically with fastening with plates or angles. When using a hip roof, the racks are placed in 1 row, and a purlin is attached on top. A hip roof involves placing supports diagonally. Equal distances are laid off from the corner. Thus, we get a rectangle on which we lay the purlins. We fasten everything using a corner.

Installation of roof truss system

The next step is to make rafter templates. We install side rafters along them. A thin board is suitable for the workpiece. We apply it to the run and mark the cut. With the second end, which is located at the Mauerlat, we also mark the gash. We make the required number of rafters using a template. After selecting the fastening step, we perform installation. The step can be from 60 cm to 1 m. We make the connection with self-tapping screws.

The angle of inclination of the slope is determined by the slanted rafters. Place them diagonally for additional load. Often double boards are used for them. We also make cuts according to a template. The upper part of the slanted rafters is connected with a crossbar to give strength.

A hip roof connects the slanted rafters near the ridge using tie-rods. Installation occurs at an angle of 90 degrees. Wire clamps connect to the walls.

We attach the frames to the diagonal rafters. Their length can be varied, but they must be parallel to each other. Ordinary and external rafters together form side slopes.

The DIY hipped roof has come to completion. The last stage is its insulation using basalt wool or foam polystyrene. We lay the material between the rafters. A layer of waterproofing will protect from moisture. The sheathing directly depends on the type of roof material.

In this video you can learn more about the construction and design of a hip roof:

A hip roof, also called a hip roof, is the most popular in the construction of individual housing in most European countries. Except, perhaps, Scandinavia, which has a similar climate and building traditions to central and northern Russia. Varangians, as well as East Slavs, preferred to build from solid wood and arrange simple gable roofs. Nowadays, all industries are subject to comprehensive globalization. human activity, including architecture and construction. Hip roof country house Nowadays it is loved by residents of the CIS countries and has become an integral part of the landscape of our villages and small towns.

Let us note the pros and cons of a hipped roof in comparison with the more common and structurally simple gable roof.

Advantages of a hip roof:

A properly designed and assembled hip roof, due to the absence of vertical end walls (gables or gables), has low resistance air flows. Accordingly, it best withstands hurricane winds and is less susceptible to roof destruction in areas of eaves overhangs (it does not have gable overhangs).
The hipped roof, due to the corner ribs converging to the ridge support beam, has a rigid structure and is not subject to any serious deformation.
The hip roof allows you to build large overhangs on all four sides of the building, thereby protecting the facades from precipitation.
A hip roof makes a house with an attic visually lower. This is important when the building needs to be integrated into an existing one-story building without disturbing the balance and character of the building.
The hip roof is beautiful. Although not everyone agrees with this.

The hipped roof of a two-story country house. Large overhangs protect walls well from rain and snow

Disadvantages of a hip roof:

Another option is to install full-fledged windows into the roof.

Types of hipped roof

A classic roof with four slopes assumes straight rafters without fractures, corner ribs starting from the ridge, all overhangs are at the same height.
The main type of hipped roof. Two end sides are shaped like a triangle, the other two are trapezoidal. Large overhangs protect the façade well from precipitation, and you can easily walk around the house in the rain.
A hip roof is a type of hip roof in which all the ribs converge at one central point.
A hip roof is more suitable for a square house plan
The Danish hip roof is a type of hip roof with gables located at the top of the short slopes.
Diagram of the rafter system of a Danish hipped roof. A small tong at the top of the short slope is used for ventilation or lighting.
Full vertical windows can be built into a Danish roof.
Vertical windows
Another type of complex Danish hip roof with two slopes at the short end.
This type of roof is called Dutch
A half-hip roof (also called a half-hip roof with a gable) is actually a type of gable roof, since all the rafters resting on the mauerlat are installed on the long side and parallel to each other.
A broken hipped roof is also called a mansard hip roof. It is more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to remove large area for residential premises.
The broken shape of the roof allows for more efficient use of attic space, but is more expensive
Broken hipped roof - distinguishing feature traditional architecture of China, Japan and Korea. Only they make a break in a different direction than we are used to.
The hip roof can be not only hipped, various combinations are possible different types designs.
A combined type of roof, where a hip and gable structure are combined.

This roof is hip, but there are many more slopes than four. But the principle by which the rafter system is assembled is the same as that of a simple hipped system.

Design features of the rafter system

Let's look at how to make a hipped roof yourself, while ensuring its reliability and strength. Let's choose a simple design with central support.

Since only part of the rafters in the central sector of the long side have full length and converge in the ridge area, not the entire rafter system can be tied together with ties - in the hip area they will not work as well as in gable roof. In addition, often in the struggle for the height of the attic floor, the mauerlat is placed significantly higher than the plane of the floor and beams (strings). Therefore, we will proceed from the fact that in our case, the rafter system of a hipped roof will not use tie-downs as a structural element. The main load in the center of the roof will be carried by a beam located in the ridge area: the sloped and ordinary full-size rafter legs will rest on it.

Standard hip roof design with support in the ridge area

The ridge support beam must be supported by posts. In order to take a fairly significant load from them, ideally there should be an internal bearing wall. If there is none, the floor beams must be quite strong to support the weight of the central part of the roof. If the ground floor is covered with prefabricated reinforced concrete floor slabs, their load-bearing capacity is usually sufficient and the rack supports can be placed on the slabs through a horizontal wooden beam.

The support does not have to be located in the ridge area. The posts can be placed on the sides of the ridge, that is, there can be two or more support zones located along the ridge.

The photo shows that the skate does not rest on the posts.

The ridge is supported on both sides along the ridge on the posts. In this case, the racks directly support the rafters; no beam was used. Each rafter beam has its own stand. Quite a solid solution.

A hip roof over a small building can be mounted without posts

For small spans (up to 4 meters), you can do without racks. However, if possible, at least in the areas where the ridge intersects with the slopes, it is worth placing one tie and a stand.

A small building is covered without the use of posts or tie rods

The rafter system of a hip roof is almost identical to a hipped roof. It is only recommended to install a central support instead of a ridge beam. Or arrange a closed support contour from beams and racks.

Options for the rafter system of a hip roof. In the diagram on the left, the corner rafter (slant) rests on a truss; a similar solution can be used for all types of hip roofs.

Sequence of installation of a hipped roof

First of all, as with all types of roofs, the Mauerlat is installed. For frame houses this is the top harness wall panel, for log houses - the upper crown. A wooden beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm, most often at least 10x15 or 15x15 cm, is used as a Mauerlat. It is necessary to strive to ensure that it is solid along the entire length. Special attention must be paid to fastening the timber. For a stone wall, the ideal solution would be reinforced concrete monolithic belt in the support area of the Mauerlat with embedded parts pre-installed into it (threaded studs from M12 and above). If this is not possible, you will have to secure studs with metal spacer dowels in the masonry.

Scheme of fastening the Mauerlat into masonry

Connections of the Mauerlat along the length should not be made end-to-end, but in an overlay, with multiple connection points. The corners must be securely connected with metal plates, corners, and staples.

Layout of the Mauerlat on the wall. Pay attention to the junction of the elements and the connection of the corners. The installation of timber on a monolithic belt is shown on the right.

The next step is to install the racks and install the supporting ridge or side beams parallel to it. For racks, as a rule, a beam of 10x10-10x15 cm is chosen, for a beam of a higher section: 8x16, 10x20 or more. Optimal ratio width to height - 1/1.5-1/2, then the beam twists less when drying. The same rule is true for rafter beams.

The post and support beam in this case are located parallel to the ridge

IN frame-panel houses support beams are often not used; only racks are installed at rafter spacing. In any case, a beam is placed on the ridge, only with a smaller cross-section. You can use an ordinary rafter element. The skate is supported on temporary stands, which are then removed. The ridge serves as a guide for the installation of the entire structure.

Racks are installed in frame house. After installing the rafters, they are cut to the required height.

Such a support contour is placed under a hip roof; it replaces the central support

In the third place, corner (sloping) rafters are installed. The loads on them are higher and the cross-section should be higher. Although sometimes they prefer to first install full-length rows, and only then install the slopes. This is unprincipled.

Hip roof rafter system wooden log house. In this case, they did without racks at all; instead, they tied the upper part of the rafters with double horizontal ties. It is better to mount rafters on a log house wall on sliding supports.

First, the posts and ridge beam are installed. The next stage is the slanted rafters, the ordinary ones are installed. Corner (sloping) rafters are mounted from timber of the same section as the rest. It is not right. The load on it is much higher and the cross-section should be more powerful.

Sliding supports - The best decision fastening rafters to the wall for a log house

Then the remaining rafter legs are mounted, including shortened ones. The rafters themselves must be solid; in extreme cases, it is necessary to install overlays at least 1.5 meters long at the joint and secure them on both sides at several points. Connections wooden elements can be done overlapping, using overhead metal plates. In the areas where rafters support the mauerlat and beams, support notches should be made and strong metal elements should be used.

This is how the rafters are attached to the mauerlat and beams

In accordance with the table, you can approximately determine the cross-section of the wooden beam for the rafter legs.

For a corner rafter, the obtained value must be increased by at least 1.5 times

The rafter system is ready. Now you need to choose the type of roof and start constructing a suitable base for it: continuous flooring or sheathing, if necessary, counter-battens and wind protection.

A do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely feasible task, at least for a house that is not complicated in terms of plan. General principles for all types of hip roof: the mauerlat must be well fixed and connected at the corners, you need to start from the ridge, the racks need good reason. It is necessary to ensure reliable support of the roof over a large span and ensure the reliability of all connections.

Fixing the elements will be better if you use special modern metal fasteners for wood, and the work will be easier. Of course, you need to have at least basic skills carpentry work. Having a power tool helps a lot: a drill, a circular saw or a chainsaw. You also need to stock up hand tools: saws, chisels, hammers. You will need measuring devices: carpenter's level, plumb line, tape measure, cord.

Four roof slopes in different planes give the building a respectable appearance, but at the same time, the construction of such a structure is the most difficult stage in the construction of a building. In order for the roof to be correct and to serve for many years, it is necessary to correctly calculate all the constituent elements and not deviate from the obtained values throughout the entire construction period.

Taking measurements

In order for the roof to turn out “correct”, it is necessary to calculate the proportionality coefficient of its structural elements.

For these purposes, a measuring rod (hereinafter referred to as a measuring tool) is used, on which all dimensions are applied for convenience, this allows you to reduce the number of measurements and the time for taking them. The rail is made of plywood, 5 cm wide.
Using a measuring stick There are also tables that indicate the ratio of the number of rafters to their length. The percentage correspondence between the lengths of the hips and slopes is calculated, then the strength characteristics of the roof are determined from them:

from the end of the building, the axis is marked along the top frame;
the location of the first part of the rafter system is determined, for this it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the ridge;
the location of the intermediate rafter is determined, to do this, the end of the measuring tool is applied to the marked line, and the other end is left on the wall line;
overhang length is determined- one end of the beam is placed to the corner of the outer wall, the other to the roof overhang. To calculate the other component of the central rafter, you need to move the lath to the edge of the side wall; the marks on the tool will indicate the location of the beam. These operations are carried out at all angles;
all these actions allow you to determine the place where the ends of the ridge and intermediate rafters will be located. The projection of the intermediate beam in the horizon is measured with a measuring rod. Next, the table determines the appropriate roof slope;
the length of the beam is measured from the notch on the base to the ridge at the location of the planned fastener.

Calculation and measurement of angles:

The beam is measured from the corner of the wall. It is multiplied twice and the desired projection distance is obtained;
the required length of the corner rafter is calculated based on the previously measured beam using a correction factor.

Video: features of assembling a roof hip frame

To begin work on building a roof, it is necessary to design it, carry out design calculations and make a drawing on a reduced scale. When carrying out a project for such a roof, you need to take into account all the loads that will act on it.

Initially, determine the angles at which the roof slopes will be inclined. It can be from 5 to 60° and this is determined based on:

attic purposes;
wind strength, amount of snow and rain;
what the roof will be made of.

Drawing and diagram of a hipped roof For construction in areas with very snowy winters, the slope angle should be at least 45°.

Calculation rules for design:

the drawing of the roof surface should be divided into simple geometric shapes and all dimensions should be plotted - this will make the calculation easier;
calculate each slope by multiplying its area by the cosine of the angle of inclination;
the height of the roof ridge is calculated using the right triangle formula;
The cross-section of the rafters depends on the load on them and the angle of inclination of the roof. The distance (step) between them, bearing capacity, strength and degree of deformation are calculated;
the total mass of the roof is calculated from the amount of material and the area of the building;
if additional loads are suspended from the beams, then the payload indicator is entered into the calculation.

Important! Correct design of building structures is a responsible procedure, and the main thing at this stage- correct calculations. Therefore, experts recommend rechecking them more than once.

The best wood Coniferous wood will be used for the construction of the roof. The wood must be of high quality, free from defects, and the humidity must not exceed 22%.

For construction desired design The following materials are needed:

Mauerlat- the support beam, which experiences the greatest pressure, must be integral, with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm;
racks and trusses- vertical supports;
puffs- connect the side beams and prevent them from moving apart;
rafters are side, diagonal and slanted- boards measuring 50x100 mm, for a large area 50x200 mm is better;
narozhniki- parts for the frame of the slope, lie on the diagonal rafters;
wind beams and struts- for structural strength;
beds- beams laid on load-bearing internal walls;
ridge beam- the top of the roof is a support for the rafters;
fillies- boards attached to the bottom of the rafters create weight on the roof;
lathing boards.

Hip roof design Fastening material: studs for fastening the frame to the walls, metal plates for connecting various parts.

Lumber is treated with antiseptics that protect the wood from various fungi and mold. These compositions must have long term protection, do not wash out and penetrate deep into the material being processed.

Tool:

construction level;
hacksaw and circular saw;
tape measure and plumb line;
drill, ;
chisel and hammer.

Fastening the Mauerlat and the base plates

IN wooden houses The last row of the log house is used as a mauerlat. To secure the rafters, grooves are cut out in the logs. In brick buildings, the lower frame made of beams is laid around the perimeter of the external walls on an armored concrete belt. They are placed in the belt metal studs to secure the beam.

For accurate marking, each beam is placed on studs and hit from above with a hammer, thus obtaining an accurate mark for the fasteners. Then it is removed and holes are drilled.

Prepared individual elements Mauerlat are laid on walls covered with several layers of waterproofing - roofing felt. The beams are secured with nuts screwed onto studs. The corners of the beams are fastened with metal plates or staples.

Video: fastening the hip roof plate After fastening, the beam should not move even a millimeter - the reliability of the entire roof in the future depends on this. A special feature of laying the Mauerlat is that the beams are overlapped along their length with a large number of connections. The beds, in the same way as the Mauerlat, are attached with waterproofing only to load-bearing internal walls.

Did you know? The best material larch is used for Mauerlat, since over time its wood becomes stronger.

Beams play an important role in the roof system. Support posts and struts are attached to them. They are laid on internal load-bearing partitions. If they are not in the building, then reinforced floor beams are required for the racks.

Taking into account the high load, the beam is made of 100x200 mm timber. The bench laid on the wall can have a cross-section of 100x100 mm. Horizontal alignment is done using wooden spacers. If struts are not provided, the beds need not be installed; the racks at the bottom will be connected by contractions.

The supports are attached to the beams or floor beams. They are set plumb and temporarily secured with jibs made of bars using self-tapping screws. Subsequently, the racks are secured with metal elements. The top connects to ridge beam.
Installation of supports depends on the type of hipped roof:

Tent roof rafter system

For a hip roof, the ridge beam is the load-bearing component of the entire structure, since the diagonal rafters and the entire roof will be attached to it.

Video: installation of the roof ridge of a hipped roof A support beam is placed along the supports with the obligatory use of a plumb line and a spirit level, which will allow you to control the installation in two planes.

Important! The symmetry of the roof, and therefore the uniform distribution of loads, which in turn will eliminate deformation of the structure, depends on the correct marking of the ridge beam, its racks and diagonal rafters.

From correct installation The design of the entire system depends on the ridge beam.
Layout of the ridge beam in the hip roof rafter system

Trapezoidal slopes

Trapezoidal slopes are formed by central and side rafters. The central rafter is the boards that form the edges of the slope and are adjacent to the ridge girder. The side rafters fill the plane of the slope.

Extrusion of side rafters

Side rafters are set according to type gable roof- make a template by applying a 15 cm wide board to the ridge beam.

An upper ledge is outlined with which the board will be secured to the ridge beam. The template is applied to the beam and the bottom cut is marked to rest on the mauerlat.

They connect everything with corners and self-tapping screws. The pitch of the rafters depends on the length of the purlin and ranges from 50 cm to 1.5 m. The bottom of the rafters can be fastened using a support bar, which is stuffed at the point of attachment to the mauerlat, which preserves the integrity of the rafters.

Strengthening with struts and fastening skates

The side beams are supported by struts, the lower edge resting against the leg, and the upper edge at 45° against the rafter leg.

The rafters are secured to the ridge beam with plates, wooden overlays, using a notch without bevels.

Triangular slopes

Hip slopes are formed by slanted rafters, and in order for the roof to be perfectly symmetrical, they are installed in calculated locations on the mauerlat.

Driving out sloped (diagonal) rafters

Sloping rafters are a beam installed diagonally, one end resting against the corner of the mauerlat, and at the top it is connected to the ridge beam. The load on these rafters is twice as much as on the side ones. Therefore, to make them, glued laminated timber of the required length or double boards are used.

Video: assembly of the hip roof rafter system Diagonal rafters are long, so they must be securely fastened to the roof immediately. The cut at the bottom for attaching to the Mauerlat is made at an angle of 45° to the board.

One or more racks are placed for the rafters, but the joints of the spliced boards should be located 15 cm from the support. You can install a strut under a diagonal rafter; if the support is a support, then the angle of inclination should be 35 -45° to the horizontal. Additional supports are installed based on:

length up to 7.5 m- one strut;
length up to 9 m- support in the lower part or truss truss;
length more than 9 m- additional support.

Important! If the floor is not very strong, you need to lay an additional beam to support the racks.

The upper end meets the ridge beam at the intersection of the two central intermediate rafters, so the undercut in this part is made with two bevels and fastening is done using a hammer - a short board 5 cm thick. It can also be fastened using a metal plate or clamps.

Narozhniki - short rafters used to fasten diagonal beams. They are made from solid material.

The rafters are secured to a long rafter using a notch or by installing support strips on both sides of the rafters, measuring 50x50 mm, and all this is reinforced with metal elements.
The splices are attached to a diagonal beam with an offset so that there are no joints at one point. The lower end of the short beam rests on the Mauerlat. These elements are installed in increments of 0.6 m, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter.

Reinforcement with trusses and struts

The greatest load in a roof with four slopes falls on the bottom of the diagonal rafters, so to remove part of the load from them, trusses (vertical supports) are installed. They are placed on reinforced beams, like racks under a ridge beam. Use timber with the following cross-section:

for beams- 10x15cm:
for supports- 10x10 cm;
for struts- 5x10cm.

The struts are fastened under the beams, which at the bottom rest against the beam or floor beams, and at the top the edge at 45° is attached to the rafters.

Its installation provides high-quality styling roofing material. The sheathing is made of bars or boards, they are placed on the rafters parallel to the ridge of the roof in increments of 0.5 m. For soft roofing material, plywood is used.

Laying a vapor barrier membrane, insulation, waterproofing

The procedure for installing the roofing pie:

a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the rafters;
lathing is installed;
insulation with waterproofing is attached;
the counter-lattice is fixed.

Video: installation of vapor barrier, insulation and waterproofing (using the example of a pitched roof)

Drip pan - an angular metal plate for draining water from the waterproofing layer. The plank is attached to the edge of the roof overhang. Step by step installation:

fix the gutter for water drainage;
Attach the drip sheets with self-tapping screws to the sheathing with an overlap;
stick bitul rubber tape;
remove the waterproofing film from above the plate so that the edge of the film becomes a drip sheet;
fasten the edge of the waterproofing to the rubber tape on the drip line, and the film itself to the rafters.

Did you know? The largest roof was built in the Emirates. Its area is 230,000 m2, which corresponds to the area of 50 football fields.

The roofing material can be any, and installation is carried out according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. For various materials exist minimum angles roof slope:

slate and tiles- 22°;
roll materials, the angle depends on the number of layers - for three layers up to 5°, for two - 15°;
corrugated sheet- 12°;
metal tiles- 14°;
ondulin- 6°;
flexible bitumen shingles - 11°.

Skate attachment

The ridge material depends on the roofing material and during installation you need to pay attention to:

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