How to properly build a stove in a house. Do-it-yourself brick oven for the home: step-by-step instructions with photos. Video: heating stove for small spaces

The hearth is the heart of buildings not connected to centralized networks. It generates the heat necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. The microclimate in the building and its service life directly depend on its productivity and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, don’t you agree?

The article we presented describes in detail how to competently build a brick stove for your home. Schemes for the construction of a home are given, thoroughly disassembled technological nuances. We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on selection and design brick stoves.

Beginning stove makers and country property owners who want to supervise the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we offer, based on construction requirements. Photographic images and video tutorials will be an excellent help in mastering the material.

It is not easy to understand the abundance of constructive brick ovens. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip their house with a brick unit should study this difficult issue. It is better to determine in advance the optimal option for its purpose and design than to rebuild and modernize.

Brick stoves are divided into types according to the following aspects:

• Purpose.
• Type of gas movement.
• Performance.
• Frequency of combustion.
• Geometric data.

Ideally, a stove that is perfect for you personally is selected based on two or three of the most important criteria. Let’s look at what should be classified as significant aspects in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.

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Calculation of heat loss will make it possible to determine the productivity of the furnace, which should be slightly greater than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. If the power of the brick unit exceeds the specified limit, a different design should be selected.

To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick stove for masonry in a low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph presented below, which simplifies the calculations for selecting a stove, was created for rooms with one outer wall.

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Stove heating as a method of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove maker, many country property owners are forced to master the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase Construction Materials for a significant amount.

Types of furnaces

A DIY brick stove for your home can be:

• Russian;
• Swedish;
• Dutch.

Furnaces are also distinguished:

• baths;
• garden;
• heating;
• heating and cooking;
• fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick structure. It is equipped with a place to rest, called a couch. Under it there is a cooking chamber - a firebox or crucible, under which there is an ash pan. It must ensure continuous combustion solid fuel. These DIY brick ovens also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.

The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, a Russian stove is capable of heating a living space with an area exceeding 40 square meters. But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.

Swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small DIY brick oven is intended for:

• for space heating;
• for cooking food.

A cast iron stove with 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. During the construction of the stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is installed in another room.

A serious design disadvantage is the high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of stove units owes its appearance to Russian stove makers; it was they who invented it. The “Dutch” is intended for heating the premises. The stove is very compact and different high degree heat transfer. To completely warm up a cold room with it, it will take 10 hours.

During the off-season, a DIY brick Dutch oven can retain heat for 24 hours. Its structural design ensures high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.

“Dutch” is built only using oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and release it gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what you need for this

Having reviewed the stove designs and made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. Besides design design, furnace design must meet the requirements fire safety, that’s why the preparation stage for its construction is so important, which involves:

1. Development detailed diagram laying a stove with or without a stove.
2. Determining the installation location of the structure.
3. Selection of materials.
4. A selection of tools.
5. Drawing up construction cost estimates.

In addition to the above measures, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

The final result of construction depends on how competently the design of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you don’t have to develop diagrams - drawings of the furnace with your own hands, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you need to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also wouldn’t hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.

When choosing a location for a stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of ​​the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of laying a brick stove in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove makers advise novice craftsmen to build scaled-down models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When are they chosen? complex designs stoves - laying stoves with your own hands can be an overwhelming task for inexperienced craftsmen. In this case, you should seek help from professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of stove is to be built, the same materials are used - bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of brick.

There are 4 types of bricks for sale for the construction of furnace units:

• hand molding;
• ceramic;
• refractory;
• silicate.

For cladding the unit use ceramic products. It is advisable to purchase M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when you build a brick stove with your own hands for a dacha or private household, you need to take it clean, without debris and various impurities, and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for kiln units can be normal, thin or oily. The proportions for preparing the mortar and the technology for laying bricks depend on which type is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has a normal fat content.

Preparing tools

To build a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools needed:

• for cutting bricks - a grinder;
• for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell no larger than 2 millimeters;
• shovel;
• to compact the mortar - jointing;
• for laying the mixture - combined kerma;
• a hammer drill plus a mixer attachment for it;
• for cutting bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring instruments:

• tape measure at least 5 meters long;
• to control verticality - a plumb line;
• a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
• to check the evenness of the installation - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
• construction and flexible levels.

TO auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick kiln

When we install a stove with our own hands, first of all we ensure a distance between the chimney pipe and the roof covering of at least 15 centimeters. Then you can begin marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging the common building foundation. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be connected to the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage differs due to different degrees of load.

First, the foundation pit is filled with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is built from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.

When the base is ready, its top level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor of the upper floors is calculated. The base must be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.

Laying a brick stove for a home

First of all, you need to study the drawings of a brick stove with your own hands. Then prepare the solution and lay the first row using a spatula and trowel. Often, novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not “spar” the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. Hold the brick suspended with one hand.
2. Applying light blows, mark the place of the chip.
3. Holding the brick suspended, they sharply and accurately cut it into pieces according to the marked marks.
4. When you build a wood-burning stove with your own hands for a summer house or home, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
5. The initial rows are built from whole material, and the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be cut. They are laid with the chopped side inside the solid structure. This point is important when constructing chimney channels and fireboxes. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of building arches and vaults with your own hands

When constructing arches and vaults, they also use do-it-yourself drawings of a brick kiln for a summer house or other building. The bricks are laid using the gradual overlap technology, with a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, a “lock” layout or masonry using the “lintel” method is used - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be replaced with a wooden frame.

For the construction of pipes they use sand-lime brick, able to withstand temperature changes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no unevenness or chips in the chimney. When the stove structure is ready, a control fire is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

Large and small DIY brick stoves are popular in private homes. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it lasts for decades.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in the house small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace opens into the living room, stove walls both bedrooms are heated, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution from the old fashioned way. river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

Basic row brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick, some stove makers even fill it with this level crushed stone

When laying the base row, use cement mortar.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the desired size.

The next one is placed brick row.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

Not a single village house can do without a stove, as it will both feed and heat. Today, gas pipelines have been installed in many villages, and it would seem possible to switch to more convenient way heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you begin to study a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to finished projects, since they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke is removed should go. Thanks to the correct placement of them in the design of the stove, it will warm up evenly and release most of the heat into the room. It is better for novice masters to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one is incorrect laid brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.

Types of brick kilns

Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, Firstly you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.

The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically such ovens have small size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm large room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with a large area, and its design sometimes includes a stove bench, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include hob and serves only for heating the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for the furnace

Having chosen the desired stove model, you need to look for it appropriate place. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.

• Stove in the middle large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, in the kitchen and dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and flat wall with well-made masonry it will become a designer decoration for the living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be isolated from the stove non-flammable material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
• It is not advisable to build a stove near external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
• When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
• To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different quantities materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools required for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:

The “goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them

The following set of tools will need to be prepared:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.

2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) different sizes- for applying the solution and removing excess excess.

10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.

11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.

12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber rod for marking.

15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help you make masonry mortar thin.

Construction materials

The amount of materials will depend on the selected furnace, and their list is almost always the same. For purely heating type no hob, oven cabinet, or water tank is required. But usually the standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Blower door.

2. Door for fireboxes

3. Cleaning doors ovens.

4. Chimney damper.

5. A burner made of several rings.

6. Hob.

7. Grate.

Other metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red hardened brick.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.

5. Heat-resistant material will also be needed for protective finishing of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic tile for the floor.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Preparing a site for the construction of a stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
• If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
• Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed in an even layer over the entire area, and left to harden.
• After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour upper layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully cooked concrete mortar and is leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water, starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of maturation of the cement mortar and prevent cracks from forming.

• A fully finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

• Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
• By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand the internal structure of the chimney channels and the structure of the firebox and vent.
• For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
• After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
• It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
• In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped rubber mallet. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
• Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
• We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, there are no other additional functions included in it:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven

Can be called the most accurate and compact oven, suitable for small spaces. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:

Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

• So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
• A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

• From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be removed and doors are also installed on them.
• A grate is laid on the fifth row.

• The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, a hob is placed on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
• On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a drying niche begin to form.
• At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
• On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
• At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
• At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
• At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
• At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

• From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
• From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
• Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
• At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
• At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.

When passing chimney through attic floor, it must be isolated from it with flammable materials - it could be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction with waterproofing material, which is applied to both the pipe and the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the stove, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

• Metal corners are first installed in the place where it will be installed - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help thin metal the cabinet will last longer.

Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the structure of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it at the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place cast iron or thick steel under the tank. steel plate, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.

The disadvantage of this installation is that there is less space left for hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even everyone experienced craftsman everything always turns out “excellent”. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.

A small brick stove can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this, and we will offer instructions on manufacturing rules. You can also watch the video in this article and select the modification you need.

Mini ovens and their features

Little ones brick kilns for a dacha have their own characteristics; before making a final decision, you should familiarize yourself with them.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses They are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and if hit, it can easily flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide that gets inside can lead to quite dire consequences;
• The stove, which is placed on a summer cottage in winter time, should withstand without kindling enough for a long time and not to be soggy at the same time;
• Warming up and quickly lighting the device, spreading heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or when completing difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat retention is extremely necessary if you are going to a house overnight;
• Without hob V country house it is almost impossible to get by, especially if the electricity in the village periodically turns off and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted various options– brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
• It is desirable that the stove has the ability to install a hot water supply register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it yourself, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of craftsmen in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add a certain gray spot to the overall design.

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer residence is used quite often.

But during installation you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was installed correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but a strong foundation will need to be created for this building, which will be isolated from the foundation walls. This bathroom condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it may begin to pull on the base of the stove;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long periods of downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it was not in use, you need to carry out several drying fires without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process usually called overclocking.

• It is precisely because brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in a dacha only when people live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of burning it;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings made of brick to be useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and unique atmosphere. And what’s more important is that they are multifunctional. Furnace professionals have developed great amount a variety of models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small stove

A small brick oven can be installed with your own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are simply making a stove with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a fairly heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply cover it with bricks to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your structure will take up more space and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• Boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Fire door;
• Lattice;
• Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove occupies 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on an edge or flat. This type The oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation structure is not prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well secured.

A similar stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functionality and a heating part, which includes a cooking part. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace can be erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to light the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sudden temperature changes may cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry thoroughly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mixture

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

• For bricklaying, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screenings instead of sand for the mixture are used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or several rows of masonry. If for the M400 cement grade sand is added ¼, then for the screed the screenings must be mixed in a proportion of 1/6;
• It is a little more difficult to prepare a solution of sand and clay, because it will take much more time. In order for the lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything here depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked using a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without any problems, leaving no traces, and in its thickness it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How to make a stove

Now let's look at how to make a small brick stove in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fire-resistant material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand coal burning. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for the mini-stove, and instead put roofing felt, film, glassine or hydrosol into it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• You need to pour sand onto the bedding (the thickness of which is about a centimeter);
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After this, we align all the bricks to the same level so that they are strictly horizontal;
• On initial row a small layer of clay is applied, after which you can begin installing the blower door. It is extremely important that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We secure it with wire, after which you can safely move on to laying the next one;
• Fireclay brick is used for the third row of the mini-stove, after which the grate is installed. It is mounted above the ashpit only when the third brick row is completely formed;
• We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on edge; in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay supports for internal partitions. Back wall stoves are laid with a slight protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After this we install the combustion door. Again, before you begin installing the door, you need to wrap it with cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is secured with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first one is placed at the back, and the second one is placed on top of the door;
• Also, to ensure reliable fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat; here we make sure to check the contour of the previous row. But the sixth row is laid edgewise. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
• On the 7th row we lay the brick flat. Next, we place a couple of bricks edgewise and proceed to the back wall;
• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, make sure that it overlaps the combustion door above which it will end. It is at this time that we install a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out a soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different ratio temperature expansion, then we do not lay the slab on clay. Afterwards you can move on to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the rear. To make a stove of this type, there is no need for a mounted pipe that will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. There are various chimney designs. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget to insert a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will be connected to the metal one. If the chimney goes to the side, then it must be covered with several rows of bricks;
• After this, we remove the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
• We whiten the stove. We protect the metal part of the stove itself and its walls with film. To prevent it from turning yellow over time, you need to add milk and a small amount of blue to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and cast iron surfaces;
• Carefully seal the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not spill;
• Afterwards, we nail a plinth along the edge of the building, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it level and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you carry out the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything dries thoroughly.

A small brick stove for a summer house is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will prevent you from making mistakes.