How to properly dig up apple trees in the spring. Autumn care for fruit trees. Sunburn protection

To the question Tell me, do you dig up apple and pear trees, and if so, what do you plant under them or leave them like that? given by the author Just love the best answer is Yes, I always try to keep the tree trunk area clean, both in adult and small apple trees.

Well, if I plant it, I only plant green manure - mustard, for example - and again, when it ripens, I process it and dig it up!! More than once a season
Filipich
Higher intelligence
(198919)
I will say this: if you dig with a shovel, then not only the small ones will suffer!! The soil under our apple trees is as loose and soft as a feather, fertilized and well-groomed, so you don’t have to dig it up as you go, you can just loosen it carefully... well, if you want!!

Answer from J K[guru]
I plant peas under apple trees. Peas seem to provide nitrogen to the roots of the apple tree.

Answer from NASTYUSHA[guru]
We are digging with sawdust. Only sawdust should be deciduous trees. Pests don’t like them (sawdust) and they retain moisture.. Well, the soil breathes.

Answer from Lesnaya[guru]
Under fruit trees Perennial flowers, including bulbous ones, were planted. I try to use the land as much as possible, since the plot is small. These plantings do not interfere with feeding the tree.

Answer from Vladimir Nikolaev[guru]
I cover it with pine leaves and lawn grass so that the worms can feed.

Answer from Irina Gromova[guru]
I dig up and plant flowers or greenery under them. I planted a few bushes of parsley under the pear tree so as not to make a garden bed. I use every centimeter usable area. And with the bushes and trees benefiting from more weeding, loosening, fertilizing and watering.

Answer from Galina[guru]
I mulch the ground under the apple trees with compost, I planted sunflower and heuchera under the apple tree, in the spring I sow nasturtium, the viola grows itself.

Answer from Zhanna S[guru]
It is still more useful and practical to leave tree trunk circles uncovered
and in a loose state.
This does not mean that you need to dig in the usual sense of the word.
But going through it with a flat cutter or slightly loosening it with a pitchfork is only beneficial.
If there is not enough space, you have to compact it, but this option is not a good option and makes it very difficult to care for trees and plants growing under them.

Answer from Irina Shabalina[guru]
No. When digging, small suction roots are damaged (they “start” at a depth of 10 cm), which are responsible for nutrition and the tree will not only go on a starvation ration, but will also spend the available reserves on restoring the root, instead of planting a new crop. ----hence the frequency of fruiting. the poorer the soil, the more pronounced this effect. It is best to keep the soil under trees or under mulch or sod. or, at the very least, just loosen upper layer. but it is best to keep it under constant mulch - it rots and gives the tree everything it needs without any additional fertilizers. But if you treat trees with chemicals. then you shouldn’t plant greens for food under them - greens accumulate poison the most. , then it’s better to plant decorative ones.

At the end of summer, every summer resident and gardener has a lot of work to do, because in addition to harvesting and preparing it, you will need to carry out a lot of work on your own plot. This applies to flowers, shrubs and trees, tillage, fertilization, etc., but today we will look at only some of the ways to care for fruit trees in the garden in the fall and talk about how to prepare them for the colder season. So, autumn garden care is on website.

We all understand perfectly well that the end of summer and the beginning of autumn is a rather difficult period for every owner of their own plots. There will be simply a ton of work here, and it should be done very correctly in order to leave the garden strong and resilient in the winter, and to see it in good condition in the spring.

How to care for trees and bushes in autumn? (video)

Autumn care for garden trees

Tree pruning

Pruning is the most basic way to regulate yield. It can be carried out in spring and autumn, it all depends on the type of plant. Now that summer is coming to an end, get ready to quickly remove all weak and internal shoots, dried and broken branches from trees. They will be of no use next year; the most they can offer is a small, underdeveloped harvest that will not bring any joy.

Tree shaping

This procedure is not necessary for all trees. Carefully inspect the garden and make sure that the branches of each tree are growing correctly, forming the required crown. If this is not the case, and some branches reach strictly vertically towards the sun, they should be lowered a little and given a more horizontal direction. This can be done with the help of a tied load, just be extremely careful, not every branch can withstand a large load. In general, this should be done gradually; it is better to add weight every 5-7 days than to immediately thoughtlessly break off strong tree branches. You can also shape the crown using pruning shears. Here already apply pruning rules for yield so that the formation appearance did not affect the number of fruits expected next year.

Removing tops

If, after pruning the trees, warm weather decided to please us again before winter and made the plants come to life again, expect large quantity tops. In fact, they are not needed at all and should be removed. This can be done with pruning shears or simply by breaking it off with your hands. Try not to damage trees great harm, this may affect their wintering. After these operations, treat wounded vegetation with garden varnish (by the way, we recommend using it in every case that involves the removal of tree branches or shoots).

Bark protection

One of important points tree care is the maximum protection of their bark from external influences. In spring we can detect vertical cracks in the bark. They are quite deep and cause harm to plants. Cracks occur due to temperature changes that occur in winter. During the day the sun burns and strongly heats the bark, but at night it is affected by severe frost. Cracks can also occur in summer under the influence of the same sun, as well as strong wind and night cold. Plant pests also participate in the formation of cracks.

In order to avoid such injury to trees, they should be provided with proper care in the fall. The trunks are covered with whitewash and special protective fiber. It could even be a rag, the main thing is that the trunk is well protected from direct sunlight.

Also protect tree trunks from insects and rodents. This can be done with the help of special preparations, as well as a protective net, which is placed on the trunk of the plant and is guaranteed to prevent damage by rodents.

Autumn feeding with fertilizers

Feeding plants with fertilizers - important step, which should not be forgotten. It should definitely be carried out after harvesting, which draws great amount juices and powers from the plant. Timely and correct feeding will increase immunity, and therefore the winter hardiness of trees.

In some of our articles we have already described various processes of feeding plants; there is material about enriching the earth with nutrients and autumn period. But we will repeat ourselves, very briefly.

You should not apply nitrogen fertilizers in warm weather, they can only cause harm. Also try not to fertilize the soil superficially, in this period fertilizers may simply remain on the surface and not produce much results. Try to dilute fertilizers with water and water.

The application of biofertilizers is also required. It can be global, by scattering it over the surface of the earth and digging it up, but it can also be local, more effective. To do this, it is necessary to make several special wells at the boundaries of the tree crown and apply fertilizers to them.

Wells can be made using garden borer. The production technology is quite simple. You remove the layer of turfy soil with a shovel, drill a hole about half a meter with a garden drill, add fertilizer inside and be sure to cover it with a previously removed layer of soil.

You can also fertilize the tree trunk circles with manure or compost. After laying the fertilizer, it should be covered with a layer of any mulch, even mowed grass.

How and what to fertilize fruit trees correctly (video)

Fruit tree care calendar for autumn

Experienced gardeners use advice from even more experienced ones, as well as their own observations. They also often pay attention to special calendars, with the help of which their work can be efficiently systematized and scheduled for convenient deadlines. So, here is a short gardener’s calendar for the fall:

September. In the first month of autumn, which is often not very different from summer, it is necessary to remove fishing belts from trees. Many simply burn them, but some, more economical gardeners, boil and process by special means from pests and stored for next year. This may bring you some cost savings. It is also necessary to remove from the garden all remaining and spoiled fruits on the ground. They can be taken to a landfill or used for household needs. It is also worth removing from the garden supports and special spacers from the forks, which prevented various damage to tree branches. They can also be burned to destroy pests, namely moth caterpillars, which often gather in them;
October. Should be held in October thorough check plantings for pest infestation. To do this, special census inspections of trees are carried out diagonally or block by block. At the same time, pruning and removal of shoots, tops and branches damaged by pests is carried out. The next step is tying the trunks with reeds, sunflower stems, or simply special protective nets against hares and other rodents;
November. Collect fallen and cut branches and leaves into one large pile and burn. The fire will kill many pests, which could simply overwinter in a heap of leaves and again settle on fruit trees in the spring. You should also dig up the soil around the trees. You shouldn’t go deeper than 10 cm near the trunk, you can damage the roots, but after a meter and a half you can already work in full force. When digging, apply fertilizers - superphosphate - 100 g per tree, potassium and nitrogen (optional) - 50 g per tree and, of course, organic fertilizers, 300-400 kg per hundred square meters. Inspect the trees again, remove possible nests of pests in them and burn them, remove dead bark from the trunks. Prepare young trees for cold weather, insulate them, support them and protect them from snowbreakers.

Proper and high-quality garden care will not only help save trees from winter cold and winds, as well as other misfortunes in the form of snowbreakers and pests, but also to prepare them for the next year, in which a huge harvest of juicy and fresh fruits will definitely await you.

Caring for fruit trees in October (video)

Reviews and comments

Valery 09/24/2012

When wrapped with rags, damping off is ensured, especially for stone fruit crops.

Vasily 03/10/2017

Preparing for winter is of course an important stage. Our task is to keep the trees intact until spring and remove as many pests and possible hiding places in winter from the site as possible. I would like to ask you - how do you feel about autumn watering plot? I don’t mean small, but large - with the goal of recharging the earth with moisture. Does a summer resident need to do this, especially in the southern regions?

Mari28 03/11/2017

Valery, you are not entirely right. Depends on your area of residence. In central and northern Russia you cannot do without winding.

Mari28 03/11/2017

The debate about whether to carry out moisture-replenishing irrigation does not subside and intensifies closer to each autumn. It is believed that moistened soil acquires properties for greater thermal conductivity. This allows the heat from the lower horizons to warm the roots of the plants. I also live in the southern zone and am against such watering. I think it does more harm than good. And all because moisture-charging irrigation requires professionalism, it is difficult to understand when to stop. After all, if the soil is waterlogged, water will displace air from its pores, which will lead to the death of tree roots. This method is more for agronomists with great experience. Moreover, winters in last years frosty with enough snow. Whether to use this method is up to you!

Selima 08/29/2017

What fertilizer is needed in the fall so that the soil does not fall in the spring?

Mari28 08/30/2017

As I understand it, you wanted to write... the buds have not fallen. In the fall, phosphorus and potassium (superphosphate, potassium magnesium) fertilizers are applied. Nitrogen fertilizers should be excluded, since the tree has enough summer reserves. Lack of feeding affects the tree’s immunity, which leads to fungal diseases. In the fall, you should spray with Bordeaux mixture, this will improve the health of the plant. However, these are not the main causes of bud loss. Their growth is affected weather, perhaps you have an unregistered variety growing. To help the tree, you can spray it with Ovary in the spring. It increases the resistance of the kidneys to cold temperatures, and also stimulates their growth.

Mari28 08/30/2017

What can I say...not a bad way. Expensive indeed. Gardeners usually use improvised material. But if you can afford it, then why not.

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The main condition for maintaining the health of fruit trees and obtaining a plentiful and stable harvest is proper care of the plantings. Garden care includes a whole range of activities that should be carried out throughout the year.

In our article you will find a detailed calendar of garden care by month and find out what measures should be taken to preserve the fertility of trees.

How to properly care for your garden

A well-kept garden that produces a rich harvest is the result of significant efforts of the gardener and his strong knowledge about the peculiarities of caring for plants. After all, planting a plot of fruit trees and shrubs is only the beginning of cultivation.

The main efforts are focused on aftercare, consisting of various types seasonal work. Exist general recommendations who provide comprehensive garden care.

Professional gardeners know that a young garden needs especially careful care. So, during the first year after its planting, during the spring-summer period alone, it is necessary to carry out at least 4 loosening of the soil around the trees, while simultaneously weeding out the weeds.

Planted plants need regular watering, this consumes 3-4 buckets of water. It would be logical to loosen and mulch after watering. tree trunk circles. With the onset of autumn, they need to be dug up, turning the soil well. This procedure leads to the death of pests overwintering in the soil.

Note: In the spring, after the snow has melted and the soil has dried, the tree trunk circles must be loosened. If the soil around the trees is too compacted, it must be dug up again, weeds removed and mulched.

You should know that the growth and development of garden plants depend on optimal level soil moisture during the growing season. For example, with excess humidity, tree growth slows down and they may even die. This danger especially increases in the second half of summer, so it is at this time that it is necessary to stop watering. They can be renewed only during the period of massive leaf fall.

Here are some professional advice that will help you learn how to properly care for orchard(picture 1):

The diameter of the trunk circles of a young tree in the first two to three years should be from 1.5 to 2.5 meters. Every year the diameter increases, and when the tree reaches the age of 6 years it is 3 meters. Further, this distance remains unchanged.
At the beginning of autumn, the depth of digging the soil directly at the trunk is 5-6 cm, at the periphery - 15 cm.
To avoid damaging the roots when digging, it is necessary to place the blade of the shovel with its edge facing the tree.
To determine whether watering is necessary, you can dig holes up to half a meter deep throughout the garden near the trees. Taking a handful of soil from the hole, notice whether the lump can maintain its shape after unclenching your hand. If the soil crumbles, you need to start watering.
Leaves that wilt at midday will also serve as a signal of a lack of moisture.
Watering of trees is carried out in circles near the trunks at the rate of 4-6 buckets of water per 1 sq.m.

Figure 1. Basic garden care activities

The first watering of the garden can be done approximately 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering. The second follows 20 days after the first. Stone fruit trees are watered a second time two weeks before harvesting the fruit. After harvesting, they are watered only when necessary, for example, during severe drought.

Note: It is not recommended to cover tree trunk circles with turf.

Trees can be treated with insecticides 10 days after flowering. in addition, after the snow melts, it is necessary to treat the trunks of fruit trees with lime mortar.

Autumn garden cleaning should be mandatory. Dried, rotten fruits should be removed, fallen or cut branches should be burned.

Spring is not only a time of awakening and renewal of wildlife, but also the busiest time for a gardener. After all, the future harvest directly depends on spring care behind the garden. Many of these works must be carried out before the trees awaken and sap begins to flow in them (Figure 2). How to care for your garden in spring? Let us describe it in general terms.

Figure 2. Main stages of spring garden care

First, it is necessary to inspect young fruit trees and seedlings in order to identify possible cracks, damage by rodents, and frost damage to the bark. Detected cracks must be bandaged with plastic wrap. If tinder fungi were noticed during inspection, they must be removed and the wounds on the bark treated with garden varnish (2 parts clay, 1 part mullein, finely chopped straw or hay).

Note: Some plants may have died during the winter: outwardly they look dried out and buds do not develop on them. When examining tree trunks, pay attention to whether hollows or traces of dangerous diseases have appeared in them.

Particular attention should be paid to examining the crowns of young apple trees, since it is on dry leaves hanging on the web that clutches of ringed silkworms can be found. Last year's leaves are removed using sticks.

If there are coniferous trees growing in the garden, it is necessary to prepare shading shields or crown covers for them. The trunks of fruit trees must be whitened with lime mortar.

Whitewash

Gardeners are well aware that fungi and lichens, as well as various species, settle on the bark of trees. wood pests and their eggs. Therefore, tree trunks must be carefully cleaned of growths and whitened with a lime solution (2.5 kg per bucket of water) or treated with a special paste.

Functions of whitewashing:

Protecting the bark from direct sunlight;
Protection from pests overwintering in the bark;
Repels rodents in the presence of aromatic substances in the whitewash composition.

Spraying trees

One of the most important activities carried out in the garden in spring is spraying plants with insecticides. These substances help in the fight against various diseases (scab, black cancer) and pests (caterpillars, moths, spider mites). You should know that this treatment can be carried out only before flowering.

All subsequent sprayings are carried out only for preventive purposes and to increase protective functions plants with specially developed preparations.

You will find more information about garden care in spring in the video.

Tree feeding

Behind winter period plants use their supply of nutrients, and therefore they need feeding. In this case, fertilizers are selected taking into account individual characteristics each crop (age, variety, condition, place of growth).

Feeding can be carried out both by the root and foliar methods. Thus, organic fertilizers in the form of rotted manure, bird droppings, compost, and infusions of green manure are applied to the tree trunks, digging them up along with the soil. Mineral fertilizers are also applied in a similar way.

With foliar feeding, nutrients are sprayed onto the tree crowns by spraying them. For example, stone fruit trees, as well as apple and pear trees, are sprayed with a solution of carbamide (urea) of varying dosages.

With the onset of summer, weeds begin their rapid development. Therefore, in order to fully supply the plants with nutrients and moisture, it is necessary to weed the tree trunk circles and areas around the bushes already in June (Figure 3). Weeded weeds can be part of composts.

Figure 3. How to care for a garden in summer: mulching, weeding and watering

When planning to mulch the soil, set aside weeds with roots and flowers. It is better to use them to prepare an infusion of herbs, which will also be useful for garden plants. And to cover the soil in tree trunk circles, use mown grass or sawdust, as well as peat, manure, humus and even synthetic film. When using film as a mulching material, more attention should be paid to watering the plants.

Note: If the soil is not covered with mulch, then weeding is combined with loosening, thereby not only freeing the soil from weeds, but also improving air access to the root system. As a result of loosening, the habitats of pests in the soil are also destroyed. It is important to know that starting from August, loosening cannot be carried out, since it interferes with the preparation of trees for winter and also prevents young shoots from ripening.

Just before the fruits begin to ripen, it is necessary to weed, loosen and water the plants. So, the watering rate for a pear is 3-4 buckets, for an apple tree - 4-5 buckets, for stone fruits - 2-3 buckets per 1 sq.m. circumventricular circle. Watering should be such that the soil is saturated to a depth of 40-80 cm. As for berry bushes, they are watered less often, but more abundantly, than trees (2-3 buckets per bush), and in case of drought the norm is doubled.

In summer, when there is intensive growth of shoots, it is necessary to ensure that they do not grow inside the crown. Such shoots must either be cut out or broken off without causing significant harm to the plant. To weaken the growth of excess strong annual branches, they must be bent and tied up.

In addition, in early June, increased growth of root shoots is observed. It can only be removed by digging, since cutting with pruning shears only enhances growth.

If a generous harvest is planned, take care in advance about supports for the branches. If the branch still cannot stand under the weight of the fruit and breaks, it must be separated from the tree, and the cut area should be lubricated with garden varnish, or a mixture of mullein and clay, and then tied with a dark film.

In August, trees begin to prepare for winter. During this period, it is no longer possible to apply nitrogen fertilizers, water or loosen the soil, so as not to stimulate the growth process. If young shoots continue to grow in young plants, they need to be pinched back.

Protection from diseases and pests

One of the most important garden care activities is to examine plants to identify various diseases and pests, as well as their control.

Note: This must be done before the plants bloom, since fruit trees cannot be treated with pesticides during flowering, so as not to burn the flowers and cause the death of pollinating insects.

After examining your garden, draw up a clear plan of plant protection measures, separately for each group of fruit and berry plantings. This way you will be able to achieve maximum effect with a minimum number of treatments.

You can fight pests and diseases either with the help of special toxic drugs or manually ( mechanically). Often, mechanical control measures are sufficient to control pests. For example, by removing and destroying spider nests, they at the same time fight the caterpillars of the ringed silkworm, codling moth and moth.

Start work when the snow is just starting to melt:

It happens that mechanical means the fight is not enough, then they resort to special chemical mixtures or aqueous solutions with the addition of various substances (copper and iron sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, urea, soda ash, etc.). Ready-made products are used according to the instructions, and those prepared by hand are stirred until a uniform consistency is obtained so as not to cause burns to the trees.

Remember that to combat adult insects, spraying must be carried out before flowering, and to destroy their larvae - after the end (Figure 4). Don’t forget about personal protective equipment: gloves, goggles, hats and a respirator.

Top dressing

Summer feeding of garden plants is carried out with the aim of saturating them with missing microelements. In the summer season, foliar feeding by spraying the crowns is more rational, since the leaves absorb nutrients much faster than the roots.

Fertilizing with nitroammophos is considered the simplest and most balanced. It is a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and sulfur. Excellent for fertile soils. On other types of soil (clayey, heavy), a whole range of fertilizers should be used, based on a number of individual characteristics of each plant.

Very often for foliar feeding use urea. It helps saturate plants with nitrogen and destroys many pests. In August, fertilizing is carried out with diluted karbofos, which combines the qualities of a fungicide and an insecticide. In addition, it is practically harmless to humans. And yet, remember that if the concentration of the active substance in the water exceeds certain standards, then instead of the expected positive result, you can harm the plants.

Autumn events held in the garden are similar to spring ones, but they are held in reverse order. That is, first the harvest is harvested, and then the trees are whitewashed.

Figure 5. Basic measures for caring for trees in the garden in autumn

Before whitewashing, the tree trunks are again cleared of old bark, the wounds and cracks are smeared with garden varnish, and whitewashing is performed (Figure 5).

Fertilizer

In October, root feeding is carried out and applied to the circles around the trunk. mineral fertilizers(except nitrogen). This type of feeding is a mandatory type of work in the autumn garden.

Trimming

Another mandatory activity in the fall is tree pruning to remove damaged shoots and diseased branches. All collected garbage (branches, leaves, spoiled fruits) must be taken outside the garden and burned.

Preparing for winter

Preparation for winter involves wrapping tree trunks with roofing felt or roofing felt. As a retainer, you can use either a regular rope or barbed wire, which will serve as additional protection against hares and beavers in winter time. Baits with poison will help fight mice.

Whitewashing the bark will provide additional protection. Since it has a bitter taste, it will be unattractive to rodents. In addition, with the arrival of spring, white trunks will serve as a kind of mirror, reflecting straight lines. Sun rays and preventing the formation of burns. Thus, even when the tree emerges from dormancy, it will be protected.

You will find tips on preparing your garden for winter in the video.

Since plants are dormant in winter, garden care involves regular inspections to detect rodents and lay out bait for them (Figure 6).

Protection

To obtain good harvest, it is necessary to create such conditions so that trees can survive severe frosts and rodent infestations in winter. Therefore, work must begin in the fall, building protective devices for the bark (various fences, wrapping the trunk with barbed wire, “scarecrows”).

Rodents should be controlled using special poisonous baits that are placed around the plants. Care should be taken to ensure that birds do not have access to them. To do this, baits can be covered with planks or branches.

Figure 6. Winter care behind the fruit trees in the garden

Frosts can also cause a lot of damage. To protect plants from their influence, it is enough to wrap the trunks with roofing felt or roofing felt, using a layer of ordinary burlap as a spacer between the bark and the wrapping material. This way you will protect your garden not only from frost, but also from burns from direct sunlight.

Root and bark care

In February, you can insulate the roots with snow. To do this, a small mound of snow is poured near the trunk insulated in the fall and compacted with feet. This simple method will prevent trees from freezing and help retain moisture.

Shaking off the snow

In winter, it is necessary to regularly monitor the amount of snow on the branches and shake it off, since when it melts it becomes heavier and can break young shoots.

The same measures are carried out during a sharp cold snap or thaw. Ice-encrusted branches break easily and can cause serious damage to the tree.

Garden tools

The following tools are most often used to care for the garden (Figure 7):

Different kinds shovels: bayonet, shovel and snow removal;
Rakes, hoes, baking powder;
Secateurs and loppers, saws and garden shears;
Hoses and devices for spraying;
Technical means: cart, lawn mower, chainsaw, cultivator, brush cutter, etc.).

Figure 7. Gardening tools

All these tools must be included in the gardener’s arsenal. But for beginners, you can buy equipment gradually, purchasing tools according to the season.

Garden care products

Garden and vegetable care products are divided into several groups. Garden var and mortar used to treat bark and cracks on the trunk and branches. Various types of fertilizers (organic, mineral, complex) are used to strengthen plants, increase fruiting volumes and accelerate tree growth.

The list of necessary garden care products also includes drugs against diseases and pests: fungicides, insecticides, various homemade tinctures.

In autumn it's time to take care of your condition personal plot and garden. Creating comfortable overwintering conditions for fruit trees is the primary task of gardeners. What does garden care include in the fall? On the eve of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can begin sanitary pruning, thinning, and reducing the crowns of perennial trees to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed anti-aging pruning until spring. Why? Firstly, there are concerns about the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, places where perennial branches were cut large diameter can become a source of frost damage even when treated with garden varnish or oil paint.

In the fall, a thorough inspection is carried out, dry, damaged branches are removed. Along with the removal of diseased, dry branches, trees are cleaned of fruits that have dried on the branches, nests and egg-laying pests are burned, growth is cut out, leaf litter and root shoots are removed, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

Protecting fruit trees from rodents

All this must be destroyed immediately. When cuts with a diameter of more than 2 cm are formed, they are covered with garden pitch. The trunks of young trees are tied along the entire length with a special non-woven material or other available means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with the tying material being buried 3-5 cm into the soil.

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I start digging - the ends of the bandage are buried in the earth, as if buried.

To prevent the bark from cracking

To prevent the appearance of frost damage on the trunks of fruit-bearing trees, whitewash them after cleaning the trunk.

Processing of trees, shrubs, grapes

On stone fruits, it is possible to treat diseases in the fall with copper preparations, for example, and on pome trees, with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be postponed until the spring. Pass it over the swelling buds.

In the vineyard, the plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy condition. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera is noticed, it is necessary in early spring, treat the swelling buds with Preparation 30. Unripe shoots should be cut out in the fall. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, in the fall or early spring the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux mixture - this is one of the universal ones that has the longest protective effect.

Feeding fruit trees

In late autumn, add organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, others, 6-9 g each active substance per 1m2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep into the area of tree trunks at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or under digging. On every square meter make one or two holes or wells.

For orchard Long-acting fertilizers are most important. The main ones are organic and organomineral fertilizers. Nutrients from them are released slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. Part organic fertilizers(manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their application affects the growth and yield of trees for 3-5 years, while the yield increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

Organo-mineral fertilizers include both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after applying mixed fertilizers (organic and mineral) under a fruit-bearing apple tree (to a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available to the plant in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher keeping them in non-fertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 of a shovel are localized in the application zone, creating within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system perennial plants feeding centers.

In addition, in areas of the garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used when digging the soil, you can also notice that it has become looser and crumbles well. This means improving its agrophysical properties.

When using fertilizers in the fall, it must be remembered that the application of fast-acting species can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the backdrop of warm weather and sufficient moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter from low temperatures. negative temperatures air.

For autumn filling of garden soil late autumn(November), as a rule, they use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska), and in more early dates(October) you can apply ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). In this case, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is divided: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the trees flower, apply intra-soil fertilizing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in the summer, the remaining dose of nitrogen is added with irrigation water.

Autumn filling of the soil with fertilizers contributes to the formation of resistance of fruit plants to unfavorable conditions external environment, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how many nutrients they accumulate in preparation for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective substances. Required condition sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows for dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged harvest.

Watering the garden

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, it is necessary to give trees and shrubs plenty of water so that the plants can overwinter more easily.

Is it necessary to dig up trees in the fall?

After the leaves fall, that is, when the fruit trees and shrubs “sleep” and their active life activity ceases, they begin the main cultivation of the soil in the garden - digging. It is necessary to dig up the soil in the garden to maintain an optimal fine-lumpy structure by mixing - the top layer of soil (with the destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

Deep digging of the soil in the fall creates conditions for the formation of a deep-lying root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in the fall, especially when it is young, should be up to 30 cm - per spade bayonet, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

Residents of Kuban have also felt an increase in the number of warm winters (especially in the last two years). Despite belonging to the southern latitudes, Kuban residents were previously familiar with snowy, frosty winters with plenty of snow and frosts down to -15 and -25 °C. With the onset of cold weather garden plants unanimously entered into a state of deep rest for the entire winter period. Early February thaws affected mainly stone fruit species (apricot, cherry plum, cherry, peach). Currently, warm winters contribute to a decrease in winter hardiness fruit crops generally. For the most widespread and resilient crop in Kuban - the apple tree - the onset of stressful situations has become more frequent, contributing to a decrease in yield. Stabilizing the situation involves hard work by gardeners in several stages.

First of all, it is important to take timely measures to garden plot a set of agrotechnical measures available to every amateur gardener in order to minimize possible Negative consequences warm winters. To do this in the fall, with the beginning of leaf fall, carry out digging or deep loosening (to a depth of at least 12-15 cm), which will ensure that not only the top layer of soil is saturated with moisture, but also deeper horizons, and will improve the structure and aeration of the root layer.

When writing, materials from the newspaper “Niva Kubani” were used - 2014 - No. 39.

Wherever we go, no matter what village you look at, each owner has his own garden, even if it consists of one tree. After planting a fruit tree, it requires the same care as any plant. Every year we save them from diseases, pests, and frosts, and also form crowns for greater productivity. All this is correct, but there is another way to help fruit trees develop and bear fruit. We dig up fruit trees in the fall correctly.

The tree's roots go much deeper than those of any other plant. This is an obvious fact. In this case, it is possible to think that the tree obtains its nutrients through the root system independently from the depths of the earth. However, the main part of the roots is located near the trunk circles. Therefore, near the boles, the soil is kept in a loose state.

Rules for digging and maintaining trees

The soil around the trees should be loose. For the correct formation of the near-trunk ridge, see.
Remove weeds.
Cleaning up fallen leaves in the fall and placing them in special places. Leaves with signs of disease are destroyed by burning in barrels and buckets.
In the fall (when the harvest is harvested), the soil is dug up to a depth of 18-20 cm under apple and pear trees. Near the trunks, no deeper than 5 cm. Roots up to 8 mm thick are easily restored.
In August, the soil is not dug up or loosened. This month marks the ripening and preparation of shoots for winter.
Watering in dry weather.
Regular feeding.
In spring, the soil around the trees also needs to be loosened. Using a fork, loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm.

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Caring for fruit trees in the fall is the key to a long and comfortable life for fruit plants. long years forward. Therefore, you should start caring for your garden from the very beginning and throughout the life of the plants.

By starting to properly care for your young garden, you can provide your trees and shrubs with optimal conditions for growth and fruiting, and provide yourself with a cozy cellar with an abundance of vitamins for the winter. The main work on caring for fruit trees is carried out in the fall, however, some attention should be paid to fruit plants during the summer season.

Trimming

The main function of pruning fruit trees is its shape and location of skeletal branches. In this case, certain conditions must be observed.

The main - skeletal branches should extend from the trunk at an angle of 45 - 60 degrees. That's why correct pruning fruit trees involves removing unnecessary branches that do not meet this condition.
In each tier of the crown, skeletal branches should be evenly spaced around the trunk. If there are two branches, the angle of divergence between them is 180 degrees, and if there are three branches, then 120.

When to prune fruit plants

If you planted a seedling in early spring, then pruning fruit trees in the fall will greatly facilitate the further formation of the plant crown. An autumn seedling can be trimmed in the same way in the fall every other year. Optimal conditions for pruning fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs - the period of sleep, that is, when the plant has not yet awakened in early spring or has already reduced its vital activity in late autumn. At this time, the plant more easily tolerates injuries associated with pruning.

Feeding fruit trees and shrubs

Fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers begins in the second or third year after planting, if the required doses of nutrients were initially added to the planting hole

By the way, in the old days, peasants in Rus' poured a bucket of oats into the planting holes under the plants, thus providing the plant with the necessary complex of organic substances.

During the first 4 - 5 years, fertilizers are applied to the tree trunk circle (its diameter should be expanded as trees or shrubs grow). If trees are planted in rows, then over time you need to fertilize the entire planting strip up to the row spacing. If the trees are planted separately, then fertilizing is done according to the projection of the crown (the length of the shadow from the crown at noon will show the approximate arial of the root system.

Feeding fruit trees in the fall is the best option. Before applying fertilizers, the soil should be carefully loosened deep into the soil. Organic matter is applied to a depth of 15 - 20 cm along with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers in parts in the spring and first half of summer. Adding them in the second half of summer can cause a second wave of shoot growth or delay the growth of the latter and the ripening of the wood. Such trees will not have time to prepare for winter, and even with slight frosts, the immature shoots of the trees will freeze, which can cause the death of the trees.

Fertilizer doses depend on the fertility and soil composition of your region.

Watering

In the first year after planting, trees are watered 4-5 times per season at the rate of 20-30 liters per tree with each watering. In subsequent years, you can water less frequently, as needed, and increase the amount of water by 10 - 20 liters for each year of the tree’s life.

The first spring watering is carried out before the tree blooms, during flowering or immediately after it.
The second - before the June fall of the ovaries,
Third, if the summer was dry and watering is necessary - 2 - 3 weeks before the fruits ripen summer varieties apples and pears.

The timing of watering fruit trees is in September - for autumn root growth, and later, in winter - to recharge the soil with moisture.

Protection of fruit trees from pests and diseases

Protection of the garden from pests and diseases must be carried out regularly using all existing methods - agrotechnical, biological and chemical.

Set traps for pests,
Spray with vitriol before flowering and a month before the fruit ripens.
Inspect plants at least once every 5-7 days to identify pests and signs of diseases.

By following these rules for caring for fruit trees, you can ensure a long-term supply of vitamins for the winter, as well as a healthy garden.

Website Ideas for a summer residence

Saying goodbye to summer heat, gardeners are actively starting to draw up a work plan for the fall. During this period, you need to have time to harvest the crop, prune, insulate the plants, etc. In order to more clearly plan the time, we will conditionally divide the autumn garden care into three stages depending on the period: preparation for landing(until the foliage turns yellow), landing(before and during the rainy season), preparation for wintering.

You can work in the garden yourself or leave the work in the hands of professionals, that is, put it on the shoulders of our experienced gardeners. We will be happy to take care of your site.

We draw up a gardening plan

Proper autumn gardening begins in September and ends a couple of weeks before the first frost. Let us consider in detail what taking care of your own green corner consists of in each of the above stages:

Preparing for landing. Already in early autumn you can begin to prepare the soil for planting. Autumn care for the young garden begins in early September. This is an excellent time to draw up a scheme for planting young seedlings and marking the lands allocated for young growth. Before the leaves turn yellow, you can also dig up the soil near the berry trees and apply mineral fertilizers to the tree trunks.
We plant the young animals. As the rainy season approaches, it is time to plant young plants. Around mid-October, garden care in the autumn consists of planting new trees and pruning fruit-bearing ones, provided that the harvest has already been harvested and the plant is gradually preparing for sleep.
Preparing for winter. In November, autumn garden care is reduced to work on insulating trees and seedlings. At the end of autumn (before the onset of frost), it is important to prepare the plants for a possible attack by winter pests (mice, hares, etc.).

Don't forget to include harvesting fertile trees on your to-do list. Take into account the time of collection; some “fruit bearing plants” can be picked at the beginning of September, others will ripen only by the end of autumn.

In autumn, it's time to take care of the condition of your plot and garden. Creating comfortable overwintering conditions for fruit trees is the primary task of gardeners. What does garden care include in the fall? On the eve of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can begin sanitary pruning, thinning, and reducing the crowns of perennial trees to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed anti-aging pruning until spring. Why? Firstly, there are concerns about the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, places where perennial branches of large diameter have been cut can become a source of frost damage even when treated with garden varnish or oil paint.

Protecting fruit trees from rodents

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I start digging - the ends of the bandage are buried in the earth, as if buried.

To prevent the bark from cracking

To prevent the appearance of frost damage on the trunks of fruit-bearing trees, whitewash them after cleaning the trunk.

Processing of trees, shrubs, grapes

In the vineyard, the plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy condition. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera has been noticed, it is necessary to treat the swelling buds with Preparation 30 in early spring. Unripe shoots must be cut out in the fall. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, in the fall or early spring the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux mixture - this is one of the universal ones that has the longest protective effect.

Feeding fruit trees

In late autumn, add organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc., 6-9 g of active substance per 1 m 2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep into the area of tree trunks at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or under digging. One or two holes or boreholes are made on each square meter.

For orchards, long-acting fertilizers are most important. The main ones are organic and organomineral fertilizers. Nutrients from them are released slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. The composition of organic fertilizers (manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their application affects the growth and productivity of trees for 3-5 years, while the productivity increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

Organo-mineral fertilizers include both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after applying mixed fertilizers (organic and mineral) under a fruit-bearing apple tree (to a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available to the plant in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher keeping them in non-fertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 of a shovel are localized in the application zone, creating nutritional centers within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants.

For autumn refilling of the garden soil in late autumn (November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska) are used, and in earlier periods (October) ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate) can be applied. In this case, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is divided: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the trees flower, apply intra-soil fertilizing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in the summer, the remaining dose of nitrogen is added with irrigation water.

Autumn filling of the soil with fertilizers contributes to the formation of resistance of fruit plants to unfavorable environmental conditions, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how many nutrients they accumulate in preparation for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective substances. A prerequisite for sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows for dynamic growth of all organs, withstanding spring temperature changes, blooming profusely in winter and forming a full-fledged harvest.

Watering the garden

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, it is necessary to give trees and shrubs plenty of water so that the plants can overwinter more easily.

Is it necessary to dig up trees in the fall?

Residents of Kuban have also felt an increase in the number of warm winters (especially in the last two years). Despite belonging to the southern latitudes, Kuban residents were previously familiar with snowy, frosty winters with plenty of snow and frosts down to -15 and -25 °C. With the onset of cold weather, garden plants unanimously entered into a state of deep dormancy for the entire winter period. Early February thaws affected mainly stone fruit species (apricot, cherry plum, cherry, peach). Currently, warm winters contribute to a decrease in the winter hardiness of fruit crops in general. For the most widespread and resilient crop in Kuban - the apple tree - the onset of stressful situations has become more frequent, contributing to a decrease in yield. Stabilizing the situation involves hard work by gardeners in several stages.

First of all, it is important to promptly undertake a set of agrotechnical measures available to every amateur gardener in a garden plot in order to minimize the possible negative consequences of warm winters. To do this in the fall, with the beginning of leaf fall, carry out digging or deep loosening (to a depth of at least 12-15 cm), which will ensure that not only the top layer of soil is saturated with moisture, but also deeper horizons, and will improve the structure and aeration of the root layer.

When writing, materials from the newspaper “Niva Kubani” were used - 2014 - No. 39.