How to properly trim a nut. Rules for pruning walnuts and proper crown formation

One of best investment means for a summer resident is a walnut. This beautiful tree, which will decorate the garden and bring tasty and healthy nuts every year. Trimming walnut– an important stage of plant care. There are sanitary and formative types. Both need to be done regularly.

Necessity of the event

You can't do without trimming walnuts. It is necessary for several reasons. If the crown is too thick, it is difficult for the sun's rays to penetrate, which makes the tree less resistant to diseases and pests. The walnut crown also needs to be trimmed to increase the strength of the tree and reduce the occupied area: in one area it will be possible to grow more walnut trees with compact crowns than with overgrown ones. Crown formation begins when the walnut reaches 2–3 years of age. Summer residents usually choose the “broom” shape, in which the crown looks natural, but there are other types.

When a walnut reaches a certain age, its yield begins to decline steadily. In order to prevent this trouble, anti-aging pruning is necessary.

Pruning may be unsuccessful if you do not prepare a well-sharpened pruner in advance. It is difficult to cut branches with blunt tools, and it is easy to cause significant damage to the trunk. Do not overdo it, otherwise, instead of forming the crown of a perennial tree, you will cause the plant to die.

Instructions for crown formation

Before work, you should decide how to trim the walnut and what shape to give its branches. There are several types of crown shapes. “Bowl” and “broom” are the most common.

  1. "Broom" is the most popular. They are usually formed this way in the fall, when there is no foliage left on the branches. Skeletal branches are placed in a circle from the trunk. There should be up to 4 shoots left on each. The lower ones need to be cut into 2 buds.
  2. The “bowl” is formed in the spring. How to properly prune a plant to give it this look? Cut out the skeletal branches and conductor, the thin branches that grow into the crown; also thickening, breaking and interfering with each other. Pruned branches could become an obstacle to the growth of strong branches. The trunk should be up to 2 m high, and the skeletal branches - up to 4.

In the future, pruning of the walnut is carried out annually to maintain its shape.

Rejuvenating procedure

An old tree has a reduced yield, and rejuvenating walnut pruning is designed to solve this problem. Another reason for the procedure is the appearance of fruits that are too small or oddly shaped.

How to carry out anti-aging pruning? First, cut off all diseased and damaged branches, then those that thicken the crown. As much light as possible should get inside and fresh air. Cut branches that grow tall and point inward, and cut off side branches as well. Later, shoots will grow in their place to form a new crown. Anti-aging pruning is carried out when the hazel tree reaches 10 years of age.

Neglected trees are thinned out in the same way. Completely neglected, damaged, frozen hazel trees are cut down to the stump. Gradually the plant will recover and fresh branches will appear.

Is it possible to lubricate the cut areas with varnish? You decide. Young plants easily tolerate pruning and recover quickly; they do not need to be lubricated. However, it is better to do this if the sections are thick.

Old trees tolerate the procedure less well and need to be handled more delicately. All types of pruning - formative, sanitary, rejuvenating - are carried out only during the period when there is no sap flow.

Views: 3737

12.12.2018

Walnut processing technology – White spot in gardening. In almost all reference literature, for some reason, this crop is ignored, or they claim that walnut trees are literally untouchable: they cannot tolerate pruning, they can die from injuries, so they must form the crown of the tree themselves.

However, experienced gardeners know that in practice, walnut trees have a high shoot-forming ability, easily tolerate crown rejuvenation and quickly recover, even after winter freezing.

Yes, a walnut can live without pruning, but in order for it to bear fruit well, it must be pruned at the appropriate time. The fact is that in the crown of a walnut without proper care Often, easily broken forks with sharp corners can form, and the branches grow too long. They are poorly covered with lateral branches, do not thicken well, and droop, which reduces their strength. Due to the thickening of the crown, the death of fruiting shoots increases, as a result of which the nut yield decreases. Moreover, it becomes more complicated preventative work to combat diseases and pests.

Thus, pruning walnuts is necessary to increase the volume and quality of the fruit, as well as to regulate the growth of the tree itself. At the cutting sites, dormant buds awaken and several annual shoots grow until autumn. When pruning, you mainly remove branches that thicken the crown and grow inward, because it is important that it receives enough light.



Pruning is done in autumn or summer. To do this, use a clean, well-sharpened pruning shears or knife to ensure even cuts, otherwise the plant may be damaged. IN spring period begin pruning in March-April, when there is no threat of late frosts, but the plant is still dormant. At this time, the nut will more easily tolerate the removal of shoots, and the wounds will heal quite quickly. It should also be remembered that the crown cannot be formed when low temperatures when branches become brittle and difficult to remove.

Walnut shoots grow mainly in May, and in June growth slows down and the shoot grows in thickness. Growth stops completely in July, when the apical bud begins to form. Fruiting shoots finish growing later, and in wet weather they grow until late autumn. Therefore, it happens that unripe shoots freeze slightly in winter. All this should be taken into account when pruning.

Walnut seedlings are cut short, leaving only two buds at a height of 20-30 cm above the soil level. During post-planting pruning, it is necessary to remove the standard shoots, which arise near the grafting site and can be quite dense.

Two shoots develop from the remaining buds, one of which must be removed. To establish a crown, a stronger and more well-placed shoot with a more obtuse angle of departure is selected, and the second, using pruners, is cut into a ring.



A new tree trunk is formed from the abandoned branch, the height of which should be no more than 1-1.5 m. As the shoots grow, the crown of the tree begins to form on the abandoned branch, choosing for this shoots with good branching angles. When forming the crown in the tier, three branches are left with an interval of 10-25 cm; Above this tier, an additional 2-3 single branches are laid.

The walnut crown is formed using an improved tiered and modified leader system. It is created on a trunk with a maximum height of 1-1.5 m. It is important that the height of the trunk is as small as possible.

In the second year after planting a nut seedling, during bud break, the tree is pruned to two buds, one of which will be a reserve. An annual shoot that has grown from a reserve bud is cut off almost immediately, leaving only single annual shoots. If the one-year shoot does not reach at least 60 cm in length in the second year, it is shortened again in the spring to two buds in the third year, doing the same as in the previous year. After this, the crown shoots, as a rule, reach the required length and are no longer shortened.

Once the crown has formed, pruning is usually not necessary. Every 2-3 years it is necessary to cut out dry and densely growing branches, which maintains the most favorable lighting in the crown.

On this moment, one of the most popular methods of forming a walnut crown is the method of the famous farmer and walnut grower Nikolai Kiktenko, presented in the video below.

Evgenia Ivanova


Walnut pruning is a mandatory procedure in gardening. It requires, at a minimum, preparation, since one possession garden tools not enough.

How to start work

Everything in order:

  1. From the very beginning, diseased or old parts of the plant are identified.
  2. They shape the future development of young branches.
  3. Achieve productivity and proper growth.

The pruning itself should be done at a specific time of year.

When should you prune?

Naturally, care begins in the spring, before the shoots begin to develop. Best time– this is March and April. How to properly trim a walnut in this case? We need to decide on the weather. When the night temperature drops or, more simply put, frosts have already ended, but garden plants have not yet “come to life”. This is the ideal period for work.

Basic mistakes

Walnut pruning requires:

  1. High-quality, sharpened tool. Dull pruners or files leave marks that damage the trunk.
  2. Competent processing. The sections do not need to be lubricated with decoctions or paints, because this is not a grafting. The plant trunk will heal faster on its own.
  3. Do not start work at low temperatures. When it is far from June outside the window, the branches of the nut are quite fragile and more difficult to remove.
  4. Experiments. Yes, everything is according to the rules and regulations, but pruning a walnut is not a dry instruction. And only through experience can you “help” a tree in forming a crown. But you shouldn’t get carried away with pruning shears or a knife, otherwise the plant may die. As you get older, you can work at it a little harder.

More about the spring season

As already noted, after winter we try to form a walnut crown.

You can start working with a young plant only after reaching a certain height - this is 1.5 meters or more.

Moreover, the trunk itself is at least 80 centimeters. And the crown is approximately 60 cm or more. For proper formation in the future, it is enough to leave 10 skeletal branches. And the shoots need to be shortened by 20 centimeters.

Video: trimming walnuts:

What else would you like to do:

  1. Remove standard shoots.
  2. The center is cut only after fresh branches have formed.
  3. Remove fattening shoots.

Scheme for pruning walnuts in spring:

Is it possible to process nuts in summer?

It is permissible to prune perennial walnuts in early summer. Approximately, this is mid-June. This period is characterized by less active sap flow. It is allowed to work on the crown, freeing the tree from branches that have grown inside.

But it is not advisable to touch a weak plant. Be sure to wait until the year the tree gains strength. Usually this is at least 2-4 years after planting. First, not 10, but only 5 shoots are formed on it, cutting off all the others in advance while the buds are swelling.

And on a two-year-old nut, all the branches are cut off, leaving only two buds. Moreover, one is the main one, the second is a backup one. And if both wake up, then only one is left. The next season follows the same pattern - only one kidney is left for the future. This is how they achieve good fruiting.

Even young trees have shoots cut off in the autumn season if they have grown above 60 cm. It is advisable to do this in September.

Pruning for rejuvenation

This procedure is needed on an adult tree, and is used when there is a noticeable tendency for the yield to decrease. And also, if the fetus is born smaller or non-standard shape. Here you need to wait for spring. And cut down those branches that have grown higher than the rest. They also cut off the crowns that grow inward. This is necessary to increase the amount of light, and it is much easier to collect nuts on branches of equal length.

Don’t forget about branches where there are lateral branches. They are also cut off. And in the future, new buds will appear, forming the correct shoots for a fresh crown.

It also happens that the nut gets frostbite and everything freezes to the root. In this case, you need to cut the trunk to the stump, and the plant will recover on its own. Over time, you can form a fresh crown, you just need to wait for new branches.

The frozen crown needs to be leveled. And on such trees, already in the warm season, it is not prohibited to treat small overgrowing branches. Many annual shoots can form on them. And this is the basis for the future harvest.

ABOUT beneficial properties walnuts today everyone knows. The trees grow quite quickly and begin to bear the first fruits within five to six years. Walnut is a fairly branched tree with a wide crown, which allows you to spend a pleasant summer day in its shade reading your favorite book or in the company of friends. At the sites small size Growing nuts is quite problematic. If you are lucky and your plot is large enough, do not forget that in addition to planting, the tree will also require care. One of the important points is pruning the walnut.

This task must be carried out on a regular basis so that the tree is well-groomed and does not get sick during growth, and its crown is formed correctly. Walnut pruning is quite a responsible procedure. If you do not have special knowledge and have never performed it before, then it is better to seek the help of a specialist. IN this process it is important not only to have special tool. You also need to understand which branches can be left intact and which need to be trimmed.

This is explained by the fact that in addition to removing diseased and old branches, you are also faced with the task of correctly forming the future crown of the tree. The growth of the nut will also depend on this. Thanks to pruning, you can influence the quality and yield of future fruits, as well as the development of the tree as a whole. Depending on the time of year in which pruning will be done, you can also control the development of shoots and set their direction of growth.

Walnut pruning is done much more often in the spring. You should start after the frosts stop, but the nut is still at rest. IN this period Walnut trees recover quite quickly from wounds, so the risk of damaging the tree during pruning becomes minimal.

Common mistakes

Many people, not knowing how to trim a walnut, make mistakes. Make sure the tool is well sharpened and clean. Otherwise, you will get crooked, uneven cuts that will only harm your tree. As in the case of grafting, cut areas should not be treated with oil paint or garden varnish. Special studies were carried out, during which it was found that such treatment not only does not speed up the process of tree restoration, but also causes additional harm. Wounds on a tree after pruning should heal naturally.

Walnut pruning should not be done during severe frosts. During this period, the tree has very fragile branches that are quite difficult to remove. Yes, and pruning in such weather, you see, is not a very pleasant thing.

Reach perfect results Pruning is only possible over the years, gaining experience. You should not be afraid of experiments, because only in this way can you improve your skills in this not an easy task. It is important not to overdo it and not to trim too much, because this can lead to the death of the tree, especially if it is relatively young.

Pruning an old tree

If you didn’t know how to trim a walnut or didn’t do it for some other reason, you probably noticed a decrease in fertility. An old tree will only produce nuts closer to its crown. To correct this, it is enough to carry out anti-aging pruning. It is best to do this with the arrival of early spring, so that by the onset of constant warmth the tree begins to develop in a new way.

First of all, you need to cut down the dry branches that are located high. They thin out the nut crown, which results in good light and air transmission. For pruning, you need to choose a place where there is a branch to the side, so that after the procedure the branch develops not to the side, but upward. After some time, new buds will appear in such places, which will subsequently provide you with a small number of new shoots. A new fruiting crown will be formed from them.

In this article, we examined only the main features of how to trim a walnut. You can use this knowledge to carry out your own pruning. But if you still do not understand the rules for trimming nuts, it is best to seek help from experienced gardeners. This way, you will not only avoid harming the tree, but will also see in practice how walnut pruning is done correctly, and experienced colleagues will certainly be happy to answer any questions you may have during the process.

Walnut trimming: Video

Forming a nut crown is the second most important thing for gardeners after harvesting. More precisely, this should only be done if the tree needs pruning. After all, it usually “throws off” unnecessary branches on its own, thereby forming a crown. But if the nut grows too intensively, it needs help. In this article we will tell you how to trim a walnut and give recommendations to gardeners.

There are basic rules for pruning walnuts that will help you get a harvest.

How to trim a walnut

Basically, the nut grows up to 5 years. Moreover, the length of each branch should not be more than 1.5-2 meters, otherwise the crown will become overgrown with excess greenery, and the vegetative buds will grow weak. The first time the branches are cut short, so that their length is no more than 20-25 cm - this is necessary so that fruit-bearing strong shoots grow from the lower part. When the tree reaches five years of age, only one, the best, of the strong branches is left.

If young trees are not pruned, a whorl will form from the buds located nearby - another crown that produces side shoots that grow at right angles. Walnut pruning is carried out in several ways: according to tiered, leader, cup-shaped patterns. There is one rule for everyone: the crown should begin at a height of 1-1.5 m from the ground. "

Improved-tier crown trimming scheme

With this type of pruning, 3 skeletal branches are left in each tier at a distance of 15 cm from each other, so that there is less shadow inside the crown, so that it is not one-sided and has a rounded shape. After the main autumn pruning it is necessary to carry out a standard: remove the lower tier so that nothing grows at a distance of 1.5 m from the ground.

Tip #1. There should be a total of 5-6 tiers on the crown at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The top must be cut off so that the nut begins to grow wider and bear fruit.

Leader crown pruning scheme

Her main principle– distribution of skeletal branches in a spiral at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other in height. On the first three tiers, second-order branches can remain until fruiting begins. Then they need to be gradually cut off so that more light reaches the tree.

Bowl-shaped walnut trimming pattern

To make it easier to collect nuts, the tree can be trimmed using the cup-shaped method. If a walnut takes this shape, it will not grow in height and after the main pruning it will remain the same size.

The trunk has a height of 1.5-2 m, the number of skeletal branches is 3-4. Along the diameter of the trunk they are laid evenly at a distance of 30 cm. The two upper branches of the crown must be crossed with the branches upper tier, and cut the central branch at the base. For 3-4 years, such pruning should be carried out annually in the fall.

Semi-skeletal forks are acceptable in cup-shaped pruning, on which many fruits also ripen. In this type of pruning, pruning is justified because the tree grows not in height, but in width. In spring, these branches are shortened by 1/3 so that new shoots of the second order are formed. Young greenery that hatches under the skeletal branches must be cut off or pinched off. "

The number of fruits depends on the correct pruning of the walnut.

Rejuvenating walnut pruning

Anti-aging pruning is carried out on trees older than 10 years: gardeners remove dried branches and also trim skeletal lower branches. This procedure stimulates plant growth and good fruiting. It is necessary when the fruit yield has decreased significantly, the fruits grow small, correct form.

An adult nut is trimmed in early spring. Branches that are too high and growing inwards are cut down, ensuring good light penetration for the tree. Branches in places with lateral branches are also removed, forming their development to the sides. This causes an influx of nutritious juices to them, the awakening of the buds, from which new shoots will later form, from which, in turn, a young fruit-bearing crown will later form.

Features of walnut pruning

The purpose of pruning a walnut is the need to form a crown that has the correct shape, improve the quality of the fruit, and increase productivity. Walnut pruning at different times of the year:

All types of pruning are carried out when plants do not have sap flow. For example, this can be done at the end of winter. We must remember that forming a crown at low temperatures, when the branches are brittle and difficult to remove, is prohibited. Sanitary pruning can be carried out at any time of the year.

What you need to know about walnut pruning

If you decide to plant a walnut on your site, then you need to know when and how to prune it correctly. There is an opinion that it is not necessary to form a walnut crown, since it grows on its own: after all, this is how these trees grow in the forest. However, if you want to receive good harvest, the walnut needs to be trimmed. And knowing how to do it is a must.

Walnut pruning: diagram, timing

Trees need to be pruned at certain times of the year.

  1. The optimal time for pruning walnuts is summer. It is advisable that it be July or August - during this period the cuts will heal faster, the tree will not hurt for a long time and will soon recover. In addition, the sap of the tree will be restored because during these months they develop intensively. root system and leaves. During the dormant period, pruning cannot be done, as this will lead to disease or even death of the tree. Before pruning, you should find out how the nut can be grafted, since this cannot be done after pruning.
  2. Walnut pruning should begin in the second year, when the height of the tree is at least 100 cm. During this period, it is advisable to form the crown so that it is shaped like a bowl. First, 4-5 main branches are selected - they do not need to be touched, since in the future they will participate in fruiting. It is necessary to trim walnuts very carefully, especially in the first years of life.
  3. In the third year of a walnut's life and beyond, pruning should be moderate, but not weak, otherwise the tree will bear fruit poorly or not bear fruit at all. When pruning, gardeners must first of all remove dried branches and shoots that interfere with the main branches.

Common mistakes when pruning walnuts

Many gardeners begin the process of pruning walnuts without knowing how to do it correctly, which is why they make certain mistakes.

  1. Pruning should only be done with a clean, very sharp tool, otherwise you will end up with uneven, sloppy cuts that can seriously damage the plant. It is not recommended to process sections oil paint or garden varnish, as is done when grafting. There is an opinion that wounds on a tree after pruning should heal naturally.
  2. Pruning should not be carried out in very coldy. At such times, the branches of the tree become very fragile and it is quite difficult to remove them.
  3. The main thing is not to overdo it when pruning and not to cut off too much, especially if the plant is young.

Young walnuts also require pruning, but according to special rules

Walnut pruning in Belarus

Walnut is a long-liver. Trees that have reached 20-50 years are considered young, since at this age they are practically still virgin. Some trees are several hundred years old. The peculiarity of this crop is that productivity increases with age. Moreover, the quality of the fruit improves. For example, in the Pinsk region of Belarus, 6-10-year-old trees produce up to 10 kg of nuts, and 40-50-year-old and older trees produce about 100 kg.

Three forms of walnut are grown in Belarus:

  • Ordinary form. In Belarus, this is the largest fruit plant. Its height at the age of 6-10 years reaches 3-6 meters. Crown diameter – up to 20 meters.
  • Large-fruited form. The size of the trunk of trees of this form does not differ from the common walnut, but their fruit weight is more than 12 g. These trees are not very common in Belarus, so they attract the close attention of local gardeners.
  • Early ripening form. It is distinguished by a short period of fruiting (they enter this period in the 3-4th year of life). In addition, it has a number of very valuable features. In addition to early fruiting, some seedlings begin to bloom already in the first year of life, and at 4-5 years they already produce a rich harvest.

When choosing a place to plant on your site, you must take into account that the walnut is the largest tree. At a young age, it may be oppressed by other vigorous trees, but in the future it will be the other way around - other plants will not survive under the dense crown of the walnut. It is planted and replanted in early spring, like all heat-loving plants.

Tip #2. Before planting, the lateral roots are shortened, and the central carrot-like root is cut off at the thinnest, lower part (cut diameter no more than 1 cm).

Saplings that have one trunk must be cut to 1/3-1/5 of their height in order to stimulate the development and growth of lateral branches for future crown formation. The height of the trunk on the site can be 60-80 cm; in squares, parks, courtyards - 80-120 cm. 4-5 skeletal branches should be laid on the central conductor, and then the conductor should be cut into a ring. Skeletal branches should be located evenly in space, at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

Crown formation and pruning of walnut

All pruning operations for walnut trees in Belarus are carried out after the beginning of the growing season. If you prune before the buds open, a lot of liquid will be released from the wounds, which will greatly harm the plant. In the first year after planting, the trees form into one trunk. After the buds open, the shoots are thinned out.

You only need to leave the continuation shoot of the conductor and the shoots that will be used as skeletal branches. Rest sharp knife needs to be cut out. They do the same in the following years. When choosing skeletal branches, in order to prevent breakages, you should choose those that extend from the conductor at an obtuse angle.

The main mistakes when planting walnuts

  1. Purchase of non-regioned varieties. Brought from other climatic conditions varieties may take root poorly - freeze slightly, change flowering times, and therefore produce a poor harvest or not produce one at all.
  2. Misconception: the walnut does not require spraying, fertilizing, pruning, etc. After planting, the walnut must be properly shaped. The formation of the crown depends on the growing technology. With intensive (classic) a cup-shaped crown is formed; with intensive - they form the crown along the axis in the form of a fruit trellis. Pruning is also necessary to ensure the quality of the harvest and the large size of the fruit.

Rubric “Question-answer”

Question No. 1. We have a lot of walnuts on our site, but they are all wormy. Why?

Most likely, the so-called fruit fly- insect pest. Like cherry blossoms, it attacks fruits when they are already large and ripe.

Question No. 2. My walnut is dropping flowers. Why?

Male and female walnut flowers bloom in different time- with a difference of several days. Masculine flowers are preceded by catkins. Flowers bloom on the female tree first. If they do not find pollen on the male catkins, they fall off. This is one of the main reasons for the lack of fruit on a tree.

Question No. 3. I heard somewhere that, starting from the second year after planting, the walnut is bent, thus creating a bush-shaped crown. But why is this form better?

You only need to start forming a crown on a young nut, since an old one simply will not survive such an operation. The center conductor must be removed. This is done in the middle of summer, because if you do it earlier, fluid will ooze from the wound. Of course, the cut areas should be processed immediately. Next you need to pinch the side shoots after the fifth or sixth leaf. Then the crown will take on the shape of a bush.

To trim walnuts, you should use a special tool.

Later, it will be necessary to remove crossed and damaged branches, since a thickened crown will cause problems with photosynthesis, and therefore with fruiting.

Pruning of bush-shaped walnuts should be carried out regularly. In addition, such a bush-tree must also be regularly fertilized and watered, which is less required by an ordinary nut.

Trimming walnuts correctly

Walnut pruning: autumn or summer?

Walnut crown, like others fruit crops receives without proper care whole line major defects. It can often develop easily breaking forks with sharp corners, and the branches grow too long. They are poorly covered with lateral branches, do not thicken well, and droop, which reduces their strength. Due to the thickening of the crown, the death of fruiting shoots increases, and for this reason the yield of the tree decreases. In addition, preventive work to combat diseases and pests, as well as fruit collection, becomes difficult.

Walnut pruning is necessary to form a crown of the correct shape, increase the volume of the harvest and the quality of the fruit, and regulate the growth of the tree.

This work is carried out in autumn, spring or summer. To do this, use a clean, well-sharpened knife so that the cuts are even, otherwise you can harm the plant. In the spring, pruning begins in March-April, when there is no threat of late frosts, but the plant is still dormant. At this time, the plant will more easily tolerate the removal of shoots, and the wounds will heal quite quickly. It is impossible to form a crown at low temperatures, when the branches become brittle and are difficult to remove.

in spring special meaning pay attention to crown formation young seedling. The plant is pruned when it reaches a height of 1.5 m. The stem after this should be about 80-90 cm, the crown - 50-60 cm. When forming the crown, no more than 10 skeletal branches are left. The shoots are shortened by 20 cm. The standard shoots are removed. After the new branches are fully formed, the central conductor is cut off above the top branch. At the 4th year of a tree’s life, the crown is considered fully formed. In subsequent years, dry, excess branches and fattening shoots are pruned.

Walnut pruning in summer is done in mid-to-late July, when sap flow is no longer so intense. The crown is freed from thickening and growing branches.

On young plant form a crown of 5 shoots, removing the excess ones at the bud stage. But you should not prune a weakened tree. We need to wait until it gains strength and transfer this work to next year. When pruning two-year-old trees, the branches are shortened to 2 buds, one of which will be the main one, and the second a reserve one. If both kidneys wake up, one of them is removed. The shoot formed from the second bud is also shortened to 2 buds during subsequent pruning. This work will contribute to good fruiting of the tree. If the shoots grow longer than 60 cm, they are shortened in September. In the formed main branches of young trees, the conductor is cut off at the topmost branch. At the end of August, young growths are cut back by 1/3. By this time, the shortened branch has already formed fruit buds and by winter they become lignified and become resistant to frost. Long branches tend to freeze.

Rejuvenating walnut pruning: video

Anti-aging pruning is required if the fruit yield has decreased significantly and the fruits are small and irregular shape. An adult nut is pruned in early spring. Branches located too high, as well as crowns growing inward, are cut down. Thus, they provide sufficient light penetration for the tree and ease of harvesting. In addition, branches are removed in places with lateral branches, directing their development to the sides. This will cause an influx of nutritious juices and the awakening of new buds, from which new shoots will eventually form. In the future, these shoots can be used to form a young fruit-bearing crown.

The video below will tell you more about how to trim walnuts: