It’s quite possible to make a beautiful and practical path yourself if you familiarize yourself with all the nuances of this process in advance. The most common covering for paths and platforms is paving slabs. Properly carried out preparatory work on installation paving slabs– deposit durable coating. The laying can be done by craftsmen, and it is also possible to do pavement tiles yourself, this will require effort and knowledge of laying schemes.
Guide: how to properly lay paving slabs in your country house
Preparing and marking the soil is the most creative stage, since the site must be planned in advance, but it is also the most labor-intensive stage, which plays the most main role. It is necessary to mark the area in which the installation of tiles will be done with your own hands.
Before laying tiles, experts recommend that you first properly prepare and mark the soil.
To do this you need:
- Install pegs;
- Pull a strong rope over them;
- Use them to adjust the desired shape of the path or platform.
The next stage includes clearing part of the earth at the installation site. It is necessary to dig up the soil to a depth of 20 cm in order to later replace it with more durable materials that can withstand the load for a long period of time. The stage of soil preparation ends with an ordinary tamper at the tile installation site; this can be done by any means, the main thing is to ensure that the soil does not settle, otherwise the tile path will not last long.
High-quality laying of paving slab paths in the countryside
Laying tiles on the ground on the site is not difficult, the main thing is to take into account some rules. The presence of drainage is necessary for efficient and rapid melting and rainwater was diverted from under the paving slabs. If you do not install it, then winter period The tile will absorb a large amount of moisture and, when frozen, will collapse. Drainage consists of the usual addition of medium-sized crushed stone, which must be poured onto the bottom of the cleared area, well leveled and compacted with a tamper. The layer of crushed stone must be at least 7 cm.
The curb is not located below the surface of the paving slabs, but also does not protrude above it, which creates the upper surface of the path or platform. The border holds back the tiles in certain places, therefore, in order for it to form a solid fence, it must be properly fastened to each other.
High-quality laying of paving slab paths will decorate the interior of a summer cottage
To install a border, you must:
- Apply heaps of mortar to the top of the drainage fill;
- The curb is installed;
- At the edges, a couple of pieces are enough for one border;
- Next, to make everything look beautiful, you need to align the top edge.
Sand is poured onto the crushed stone, leveled and compacted. Care must be taken to ensure there are no slopes. A layer of sand is required at least 9.5 cm. It should look like this: from the sand to the top of the curb there should be a distance that is equal to the thickness of the paving slabs, taking into account a couple of centimeters for the fastening material.
Installation of tiles begins from yourself in order to further move along the already installed surface.
It is necessary to ensure the evenness of each row. In this case, a stretched cord is used between the curbs. Individual tile elements should be spaced no more than 2 mm. If there is a need for curly elements or a round platform, you can use a grinder for these tasks; it will easily cut off all unnecessary parts of the tiles.
Optimal technology for laying paving slabs in the country
The laying technology begins with the preparation of a fastening material, which consists of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:8, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained, it is this mixture that holds the tiles in position.
It is necessary to prepare materials and tools for installation in advance so as not to be distracted during the work process.
After this, you need to start laying the tiles in your dacha:
- To do this, a fastening material is poured into the laying area; it must have a layer in which, when the paving slabs are installed on the fill, they will rise above the surface by 0.5 heights.
- This fill must be evenly leveled; compaction is not required.
- After this, you need to lay the first tile, which is simply installed on the surface covered with fastening material and hammered into the cement-sand mixture with a heavy rubber mallet.
- It is hammered in until the height is equal to the curb.
- Then take a second tile and install it next to it in the same way.
- After installing all the tiles, excess fastening material must be removed.
The installation is completed by filling the tile gaps with a mixture of sand and cement. From the tiled surface, the mixture is carefully swept into the seams with a broom. This mixture will fix the paving slabs in position after the first rain, when it absorbs liquid and hardens. New paths are immediately watered with water from a hose using a sprayer; in this case, the tiles must be left alone for a couple of days.
Paving slabs are being laid different ways. On a sand bed. The tiles are laid on a layer of wet sand. This path is made to decorate the garden. Water will not stagnate and will leave precisely thanks to the seams between the tiles, which are filled with sand.
Cement and wet sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:5 and evenly distributed on top of future paths.
Due to its ease, accessibility and reliability, it is the most common method. Cement-sand mortar(sand, water and cement) are mixed in a concrete mixer, the resulting mass is distributed over the surface of the tile with a trowel. After that, the tiles need to be laid and compacted with a mallet. This is the most reliable way installation, but it requires provision of drainage.
There are several options for laying paving slabs, which you can choose at your discretion
There are many options for laying paving slabs:
- Herringbone or wicker. The most common option. The tiles are laid at an angle of 90° or 45°; if the elements alternate with each other, forming an interlacing, then it is a braid.
- Chaotic masonry. The simplest installation method, which looks quite interesting, consists of tiles various colors and sizes. In this method, the tiles need to be laid randomly.
- Chess order. Suitable tiles: 2 types: figured and square 2 different colors, technique this method in alternating laying.
- Circular pattern. Most difficult option. Circular patterns are created that look beautiful both from above and from close range.
- Combination of lawn and tiles. Most original version when the lawn or flower beds are combined with paved paths or areas. For this method, you can use street tiles specially designed for this type.
To correctly lay the material, there are several tips. We must not forget about slopes; when laying with your own hands, it is necessary to install a small mound in the middle, this will allow water to drain better, and also in the cold season will make it easier to tolerate freezing of water and thaw.
Needs to be implemented design ideas. For example, mix sand and seeds and pour the resulting mixture into the seams, then there will be a lawn between the tiles, which will allow the paths to stand out in the garden. The lining of the parking area for cars is done on a concrete pad; road slabs should be laid out in the same way as tiles.
Laying paving slabs with your own hands (video)
The issue of masonry is solved quite simply, although the process is quite labor-intensive, but in terms of technical components it is absolutely elementary. Already after laying paving stones with an area of 1 m2, you can feel like a real professional in this matter.
Similar materials
No one will argue with the fact that it looks much better and more attractive than asphalt coating.
In addition, this coating is more practical. If you carefully study the question of how before starting work, you can avoid many mistakes. The result will be an excellent coating for a summer cottage, which will be in perfect harmony with the facades and objects of the site. If installed correctly, water will never accumulate on the surface of the tile covering after rain. When heated, it will not melt and release harmful substances. She will last long years. But if the owner of a summer cottage wants to change after some time old tiles on a new one, it will be very easy to do. It is easily dismantled. And laying paving slabs with your own hands does not require any special equipment or skills.
Tiles are an excellent covering for a summer cottage, which will harmonize perfectly with the facades and objects of the site.
On unstable ground, experts recommend laying a crushed stone base underneath. If the soil is mostly sandy, then laying crushed stone is not necessary. If the path will be laid on the same level as other surfaces, then it is necessary to make an additional notch in the place where the path will pass (about 15 cm). You should strive to make its surface as smooth and regular as possible. The smoother the surface, the longer the track will serve and perform its functions. If during the installation process it becomes necessary to remove or add soil, this must be done. It will not be possible to lay tiles evenly on an uneven, unprepared surface. Following the drawn plan, in the places where the tiles will be laid, you need to drive in wooden pegs and pull a rope along them. If the path has several levels, then each platform under the level is leveled separately.
If the path has several levels, then each platform under the level is leveled separately.
First of all, the side curbs are installed. They can be made not much higher than the path or the same height as it. The main task of curbs is to prevent the paving slabs from spreading and keep them in place. To install them you need to dig a trench and fill it cement mortar and level the blocks. Having fixed them, add sand or soil. Some people use invisible supports instead of regular curbs. And then they begin to level and compact the surface itself for laying the tiles.
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DIY surface preparation
First you need to compact the naturally crushed soil. A layer of sand about 5 cm thick is poured on top. It is moistened with water and after a while (while the sand is still wet) it is compacted, keeping the same level over the entire surface. A layer of crushed stone is poured on top of the sand layer. It is compressed and filled with a special fastening solution. If it is planned that the path will not only be pedestrian, but that cars will also drive along it, then a reinforced mesh. If freight vehicles will also travel along the road, then experts advise increasing the thickness of the working layer by at least one and a half times or strengthening the cement base. In order to ensure trouble-free drainage of rainwater, the surface must be leveled at a slight angle (maximum 5 degrees).
Drains to the ground can be made both longitudinal and transverse. While working, you must remember to use the level all the time. Last layer(sand-cement) is mixed in a 3:1 ratio and poured 3 cm thick. This mixture should be properly laid out on the path in portions and leveled with a rake. The better and higher quality the base is made, the more durable the path will be.
The many advantages of paving slabs make it a material that is increasingly being chosen for arranging paths and sidewalks. Regardless of the purpose of the sidewalk, we can find thin and thick tiles in the form of paving stones. There are options that meet the requirements for sidewalks, driveways, and even allow you to make a road for heavy vehicles.
Unfortunately, despite the many advantages that this material has, it also has a rather serious drawback. The cost of its installation and leveling is approximately twice its cost. That's why many people are looking to save on installation costs by trying to do the entire process themselves, especially when installing paving in their own yard, driveway, or deck.
Is it possible to lay paving slabs on sand without sand? How to prepare for work and what is required for it? Which sand is best to cover? How to avoid the most common mistakes and, finally, how to correctly lay paving stones on sand step by step? You can find everything in this article necessary advice and recommendations on these issues.
How to design a sidewalk surface?
Before you start laying, you should think about the layout of the path. You need to plan the width and pattern to minimize the need to cut the tiles. This will allow you to work faster and without unpleasant surprises in the form of cracking slabs, curved elements or installation difficulties.
Photo. Cutting tiles is quite a fiddly job, so it's best to avoid it if possible when planning your path pattern
When planning the layout of a deck or walkway, we must also consider water drainage. Can be arranged different variants water drainage:
- linear outlet;
- in the form of gutters in the sidewalk;
- plan for elevation changes.
The height difference is planned towards the ground adjacent to the tile, for example, into a lawn. It should be borne in mind that the surface of the pavement should be raised above the surrounding area so that we can avoid its contamination by water flows, in addition, this facilitates the penetration of water into the ground. Correct location will allow the tiles, even after rain, to dry quickly and be always clean.
When purchasing tiles, you need to pay attention not only to their decorative qualities, but also on thickness. Different sizes suit different purposes. Tiles 4-6 cm thick are used for paving pedestrian paths, sidewalks, or decorative strips around the house, while for surfaces with increased load (entrances to the house and garage), you need to choose an option with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm.
Before you start, you need to prepare the following tools:
You will also need the following materials:
- sand;
- cement.
Carrying out the work step by step
Creating a sidewalk always includes several stages, which, depending on many parameters (type of soil, nature of use of the sidewalk, pattern) may differ slightly from each other.
Stages
The following general stages can be distinguished:
- Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment.
- Marking and preparation of the site.
- Installation of curbs.
- Laying tiles.
- Grouting and final work.
Most installation work different tiles will be the same, with a difference in step 4. Depending on the type of paving: stone, paving stones or paving slabs, the material is laid slightly differently, using different bases.
Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment
Laying the tiles begins by transferring the project to the ground. It is important to plan the shape of the path or pavement, determine the location of control points, preferably where it is important to ensure that the pattern is laid correctly or where there are some changes that need to be taken into account. For planning, pegs and string are used to “draw” the shape of a path, platform or road.
Marking and preparation of the site
Work begins with the formation of a recess that corresponds to the course of the sidewalk. The depth of the excavation depends on the use of the sidewalk - the higher the load, the greater the depth should be, since the thickness of the base should be greater. The following depth is recommended:
- for sidewalks, paths, terraces - the depth should be from 15 to 20 cm;
- for more loaded areas, for example for car paths, this depth is at least 50 cm.
The depth of the excavation also depends on the type of soil:
- on sandy soils it may be less;
- on clayey ones, where it is necessary to remove the impermeable layer, the recess should be larger.
On small areas usually performed excavation manually, and large areas It is worth using specialized equipment that can be rented.
The soil from the recess must be carefully selected. Soil can be moved to the site, especially if its volume is large, and transportation will require professional equipment. It is important to select all the fertile soil layer, as it is very valuable and can be used to create flower beds and beds.
The bottom of the recess must be level, smooth and correct form– if we plan drainage in the form of a height difference, the bottom of the pit should be properly formed when planning the drainage. The difference should be about 1 - 2%. Once all the required soil layer has been selected, you can begin compacting the site.
Installation of curbs for paving slabs
To clearly define the course of the pavement surface and give it the desired stability and durability, you need to install curbs. The edges of the curb are fixed to a cement foundation. Curbs take a lot of load from the surface, so they should be installed very carefully and diligently. They are a frame that enhances the surface of the sidewalk. The edges should be planned so that their surface is flush with the surface of the tile. The transition from the surface to the curbs should be smooth. The size of the border, as well as the tiles, depends on the type of substrate, as well as on the nature of the use of the surface. Curbs can vary in thickness, height and strength.
Installation of drainage
Drainage is installed on the prepared surface.
Water drainage can take two forms:
After the above work, you can begin preparing the substrate. This work takes place in several stages, depending on what kind of soil we have and what kind of surface we plan to create. Preparing the base can be done in several ways. The base consists of several layers:
- native soil;
- crushed stone;
- bedding, sometimes without a layer of crushed stone.
After removing the fertile layer, the soil is strengthened. For this purpose, remove the backing with a shovel, and then mix this layer with cement. Mixing is done using a rake. After completing this work, compaction is carried out using a manual or mechanical tamper.
Then they make the base. This is a layer that can consist of a mixture of screenings, gravel, crushed stone or clay, the thickness of which ranges from 5 cm and above - depending on the use of the sidewalk. Then the base layer is leveled, compacted and the bedding is scattered on it.
Which sand is best to work with? The backfill is usually fine sand or sand mixed with cement. This layer is not compacted, it is simply leveled and installation begins. Sand will compensate for any possible curvature of the path, which should not be too large! Depending on the type of paving slabs - stone or concrete, and also depending on the type of substrate, these steps differ from each other, which will be described below.
Laying paving slabs should begin after opening all packages. This will avoid possible color differences between products from different batches. When laying the sidewalk, you should use elements from each package.
Laying tiles with your own hands - video
Laying stone paving slabs and paving stones
Stone paving slabs are used on open areas and in private households both for roads and on sidewalks, ramps or platforms. It looks very stylish and elegant, and works well in households decorated in both classic and modern styles. You can find it on the market stone tiles, varying in size, thickness and shape.
Stone paving stones
Stone sidewalks require the use of stone curbs. Sometimes they also work well with curbs made of cobblestones, which, like others, must be attached to a concrete base. The base for paving stones is gravel, screenings or a mixture of both. A layer of fine sand is poured onto such a base and then the paving stones are laid. If the soil is permeable and you plan to use it for walking paths or driving with light loads, then you can abandon the gravel layer and lay stone paving stones on a layer of sand 5 cm to 20 cm thick.
Stone paving stones are laid 2 cm above the level. After installation, each element is driven in rubber mallet, then fill the cracks with fine-grained sand, sweeping it into the cracks. This arrangement is ideal for patterns such as waves, fans or circles.
If you plan to lay long stone cobblestones in a pattern with lines, you may need a base in the form of crushed stone 17 - 23 cm thick. A layer of sand is poured onto it and then laying is carried out.
Stone tiles
Stone paving is most often used in pedestrian areas and the process is similar to the paving stone installation above. The tiles are laid on sand, a layer of which is 15 cm thick - on permeable soil. An area with impermeable soil where water stagnates is not very good decision. Therefore, in this case, two layers will be used as the foundation: the first (which is deeper) is a gravel mixture, i.e. a mixture of sand and gravel of various fractions (15 cm thick), and the next layer is sand in a layer having a thickness of 2 - 3 cm.
If we lay large tiles, you don't always need to use curbs. To stabilize the entire structure, cementitious fixation can be used.
Concrete pavers are the most popular paving solution today, primarily due to their attractive price, but also due to their good technical parameters And large selection options. Unfortunately, sometimes due to excessive patterns and colors in the composition, we get an ugly, tasteless and tacky result. Therefore, when choosing paving stones, it is important to think carefully about the design of the sidewalk or area with which it will be paved.
Concrete paving stones are currently produced in four thicknesses: 4 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 10 cm.
Depending on the purpose, different material thicknesses are chosen:
- 4 cm – for sidewalks or decorative strips around the building;
- 6 cm – for areas with low load (pedestrian and light transport roads for cars weighing up to 3.5 tons);
- 8 cm – for street roads and parking lots;
- 10 cm – roads for heavy Vehicle, buses and other heavy-duty vehicles.
Most often, concrete paving stones are produced in various colors. There are exquisite options, the surface of which is decorated with crumbs, and the texture can be more decorative. There are also products that are deliberately aged or stylized, hence their great popularity.
The advantages of this material include relatively simple assembly, dismantling or repairing any damage. Concrete cubes are also very resistant to stress, abrasion or external factors.
Concrete paving stones
This type of coating is laid in accordance with the type of substrate and the purpose of the surface (pedestrian, driveway):
The paving stones should be placed 1.5 cm above the level, the joints should be about 2-3 mm. The seams are filled with sand and the surface is wetted so that it settles. This is repeated until the seams are completely filled. Then the surface is cleaned and, if necessary, compacted with a vibrating plate with a plastic cover.
Paving stones have many advantages, which is why they are often used as paving paths and sidewalks in private homes.
Paving slabs – perfect option covering paths and areas in front country house. It is characterized by increased wear resistance, practicality of operation, and highly aesthetic appearance. Installing it is not a very complicated process, while laying paving slabs with your own hands requires compliance certain rules, which are described in our step-by-step instructions.
In our article we will tell you how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands, what tools and materials you will need for this, and also give useful recommendations in video tutorials.
The main advantage self-installation is to reduce the cost of the process as much as possible. You have to pay for any work, and specialist services cost a lot today. Moreover, when self-installation You can do everything without haste, following all the recommendations.
At the same time, it is quite difficult to find workers capable of laying the slab efficiently and correctly. The desire of any team is to complete the order quickly in order to receive payment, but quality often suffers as a result. When installing it yourself, the owner will be able to take into account all the features of his site, since only he knows the weak points well.
It is unlikely that a team of hired workers will take these nuances into account so carefully, unless they demand exorbitant payment for their work.
The disadvantage of self-installation is the need to carefully study the rules, additional costs for purchasing special tool for work.
Basic types and selection rules
The composition of the paving slab is cement mixture with the addition of various dyes, mineral components, plasticizers. The use of high quality raw materials guarantees compliance with GOST, hence the durability of the coating.
Correct dosage, adherence to technology – quality guarantee, therefore, it is worth purchasing material from trusted manufacturers, and not chasing the cheapness of handicraft production.
It is advisable to give preference to an option that has the addition of granite chips, polymers, and high-quality clay. From a variant consisting exclusively of concrete-sand mixture, it is better to refuse, since it will not last long.
Modern manufacturers offer consumers two main types of paving slabs:
- It most often has a rectangular, square or diamond shape, uniform colors.
- In production manually, therefore differs more color scheme, maximum variety of shapes.
When choosing, the quality of the base is taken into account, functional purpose coverage areas. Experts advise choosing material small sizes, as it is more resistant to cracking. It is important to consider the thickness of the blocks. The minimum is three centimeters, for parking and vehicle driveways – at least 5-6 centimeters.
The color and shape are selected to be in harmony with the decoration of the house building, taking into account your own preferences. Installation of diamond-shaped and rectangular slabs is more complicated and requires the use of some work skills. It’s easier to install a curly one because the flaws are less noticeable.
IMPORTANT. When choosing a stove, you should take into account its environmental friendliness, since heating the surface in summer will cause the release of harmful substances, which will adversely affect the health of the family.
Each slab is carefully examined and its quality assessed. It is worth refusing to purchase material that has the following disadvantages:
- Heterogeneous structure of the outer side.
- The color is too bright.
- Uneven coloring.
- Stains dark color on the other side.
- Clots of material in the structure.
- Smooth, high-gloss surface.
ADVICE. By knocking two copies against each other, you can determine their quality: a dull sound indicates the fragility of the material. High quality slab should be ringing.
We will tell you everything about it on the pages of our website! You will learn a lot useful tips and recommendations.
Preparatory work
Before starting work, you need to purchase tiles, Consumables, tools.
How to calculate the amount of material needed
The calculation method depends on the drawing that is supposed to be posted. Complex compositions require a special approach and specific recommendations. The quantity is calculated based on the selected pattern, after drawing up a preliminary sketch plan of the entire site.
If simple forms are chosen, it is worth remembering school course geometry and calculate the area of a specific geometric figure, which is a site or its individual parts.
The area of all parts that need to be covered will be taken as a basis. Number of tiles per one square meter indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, therefore, by simple mathematical operations it is calculated required amount purchased kits.
Experts advise purchasing material in reserve one square meter for each part of the surface to be coated. This is necessary so that there are fewer joints in oblique corners.
REFERENCE. There are special online calculators, which automatically calculate the number of tiles after entering parameters (area of the site, size of blocks). Using it, accurate calculations are made.
Additionally purchased border, which is set to prevent blocks from moving along the edge. Its quantity is calculated according to the length of the perimeter of the covered area.
When purchasing material and planning the size of the covering, you need to try to make calculations in such a way that there is no need to lay cut pieces along the edges. The fewer cut pieces there are in the coating, the more aesthetically pleasing it will look.
What you will need
Installing paving slabs with your own hands requires using special tools:
- Tamping
- Roulette.
- Rubber hammer.
- Line or cord for marking.
- Rule.
- Level.
- Grinder with discs for concrete.
- Master OK.
- Rake.
- Broom.
In addition to tools, consumables are purchased:
- Sand (for a standard area 2-3 tons).
- Cement.
Preparing the base
Careful preparation of the foundation is the key high-quality styling. After making the plan, Marking is carried out using pegs with a thread stretched over them. The quality of the soil in various parts is preliminarily assessed, and the sides of the slope are determined. If it is located towards the house and yard buildings, a drainage system is first thought through.
The sites are carefully leveled, soil 15-20 centimeters high is removed. Then the surface is compacted. At the same time, drainage and sewer pipes are being installed.
After leveling and compacting a crushed stone cushion is poured. For garden paths using paving slabs with your own hands, the thickness of the layer is 10-15 centimeters; for parking areas and roadways, the thickness of the crushed stone doubles.
The pillow is compacted by a special machine, covered with geotextile, which will prevent sand from penetrating between the crushed stone. In areas with weak, loose soil, geotextiles are additionally laid under crushed stone.
The prepared pillow is filled with cement-sand mixture (1X5), sand is poured on top of such a height so that before compaction the slabs are 1 cm above the surface.
ADVICE. To prepare the base, it is advisable to use guides made of boards along the height of the pillow. The foundation requires especially careful preparation if the site soft ground. It is compacted after moistening.
The entire further process will depend on the quality of foundation preparation.
Important to avoid mistakes! If you want to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands, watch this video of a man who decided to lay them incorrectly:
Safety precautions
Organization of work requires compliance with safety measures:
- The workplace is cleared of foreign objects.
- If the slab is laid on concrete base, notches are made while wearing safety glasses.
- All work is carried out with rubber gloves so that the skin is not injured or corroded by the cement mortar.
- Sorting the material and processing the edges of the tiles is carried out using thick gloves.
- Knee pads are used to protect the legs.
On our website you will also find out! How to work with such surface paving elements?
Read about the features of laying porcelain stoneware and how to properly prepare the base for this material.
You can learn how to make steps from paving slabs with your own hands by reading our next material:
How to lay it correctly: technology and procedure
After preparing the base for laying tiles with your own hands, the following steps are necessary:
- Stretch the cord along the edges of the paths and platforms using stakes.
- Install borders along the borders, digging them into the soil to the required height. For greater stability, the curb is fixed with cement mortar.
- To drain water, install drainage. The pipe is wrapped in geotextile and laid in a prepared trench next to the curb.
- Next, starting from the curb, they begin to lay the slabs. The rows can be placed diagonally or in a straight line. The rows are placed away from each other so that the prepared base is not destroyed when workers move along it. The laid paths must be strictly parallel to the stretched cords.
- To ensure uniform gaps between the tiles, special crosses are used.
- The slab is laid on a sand cushion and tapped on top with a hammer to ensure a tight fit to the surface. If any skew is noticeable, the blocks are lifted and a cement-sand mixture is poured under them for leveling. To control the horizontal level, a building level is used.
- If there are corners or obstacles along the laying path, they should be avoided in whole copies. The remaining spaces are then filled with suitable fragments. The tiles of the required shape for these purposes are cut using a grinder with a concrete disc. Filling these areas is done last.
- After laying all the rows in a continuous area, the seams between the tiles are filled with a mixture of sand and cement. Any excess that does not spill into the cracks must be brushed off with a broom.
- After all the gaps are filled with a sand-cement mixture, the surface is watered with water from a hose so that the blocks are fixed together. Be sure to put a diffuser on the hose so that the stream of water does not dislodge the backfill mixture.
Process correct installation You can watch paving slabs with your own hands in this installation video tutorial:
Another useful video tutorial on how to correctly lay paving slabs with your own hands - what is needed for this and how to lay them correctly:
IMPORTANT. When laying each section at the end of the day, it is covered with a sand-cement mixture and swept thoroughly. If this is not done, accidentally introduced moisture can ruin the appearance of the coating even before all work is completed.
Coating care
For the durability of the coating and maintaining its beautiful appearance It is necessary to follow the rules of caring for it:
In fact, this is a simple process that you can completely handle on your own, but you shouldn’t rush it. The work requires thoroughness and painstakingness; it is better to do the work slowly, carefully following the recommendations of specialists.
Paving slabs are replacing asphalt pavement in the courtyard of a mansion and in the country.
Paving slabs are much more attractive and practical than asphalt pavement.
It is stronger and more practical than asphalt and its appearance is more attractive. The tiles are not afraid of rain and harmonize perfectly with the facades of buildings. You don’t need any special equipment to install it; it’s easy to install it correctly with your own hands.
Tools and materials
To complete the work of laying paving slabs you may need:
- metal or wooden pegs;
- rubber hammer;
- construction level;
- a hose equipped with a divider;
- broom;
- rake;
- shovel;
- long rail (rule);
- Master OK;
- cord;
- tamping;
- cement grade not lower than M-100;
- sand;
- geotextiles;
- pipes about an inch in diameter;
- gravel or crushed stone;
- sidewalk tile;
- curbstone;
- Bulgarian.
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Main stages of work
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Preparatory work
The area chosen for laying paving slabs must be marked using rope and pegs, which are easy to make yourself.
How to lay paving slabs correctly? You need to start by preparing the site. It's a good idea to have a plan with all the dimensions. In any case, you need to measure the area yourself in order to correctly calculate the amount of materials for work. The laying area is marked using a cord and pegs. They mark the boundaries of the area for laying tiles. After this, the soil is removed. This must be done evenly over the entire area of the site. The turf is removed to a depth of about 20 cm. It is advisable not to leave plant seeds and their roots.
After excavating the soil, the area is covered with crushed stone or gravel, leveled and compacted. A layer of sand-cement mixture is laid on the base prepared in this way. Its thickness can be up to 40 cm. For arranging pedestrian paths, 15-20 cm is enough. Sand and cement are mixed in a 3:1 ratio. In order for the mixture to lie tightly, it must be moistened with water. A layer of geotextile can be placed between a layer of crushed stone and sand. It will protect the area or path from grass growing through the tiles.
A strong thread or fishing line is pulled. Using a level, check its horizontalness.
At this stage, you need to decide on the direction of the site's slope. It is usually done in the yard away from the house, towards the street. In this case, the street level is taken as the initial, zero mark. Two pegs are driven in along this line. A strong thread or fishing line is stretched between them. Using a level, check its horizontalness. The level is applied to the fishing line from below.
From one peg, a thread or fishing line is pulled perpendicular to the first. The free end is tied to the third peg and driven into the ground above the first two. The tilt angle should be about 5 degrees. The fourth peg is driven in and the fishing line is pulled. The result is a rectangle indicating the area for laying tiles.
The entire site is divided into strips with a width less than the length of the rule. The stripes are limited by pegs and fishing line. Now you should use a shovel and rake to level the soil in each strip. The gap between the soil and the thread should remain two thicknesses of the tile. Greater precision is not needed. The soil that will have to be added will need to be compacted.
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Laying paving slabs
Under the threads marking the boundaries of the strip, place steel pipes. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and be at the same height.
Now you can proceed directly to laying paving slabs. First you need to prepare a mixture of 5-6 parts sand and 1 part cement. The sand must be wet. Place this mixture over the surface of one strip and compact thoroughly. Lay pipes under the threads limiting the strip. The rule is to pass it under the fishing line and run it along the surface of the pipes. They will show you where to add and where to remove the cement-sand mixture. The result will be a smooth surface.
Paving slabs must be inspected and sorted before laying. It may have defects. The main ones are designated: turtle, plate and propeller. In the first case, the paving slabs are convex, in the second - concave, in the third - curved. Such paving slabs can be put aside for now.
It is imperative to leave small gaps of 3-5 mm between the tiles so that when it rains, water flows through them into the ground.
The tiles are laid on the base with a minimum gap from each other. If necessary, knock down with a rubber hammer. controlled by level. If necessary, cut off the excess part of the stone using a grinder. After laying the paving slabs, you need to sprinkle them with clean, fine sand, then rub them with a hard-bristle mop or broom.
Sidewalk paths in a dacha, properly tiled with your own hands, add special attractiveness to the entire area. They can be straight or curved, with or without patterns. Various steps, terraces and inclined paths can be laid with tiles.
It is necessary to choose the right tile thickness. 40 mm thick tiles are perfect for constructing walkways. For the garage area, a thickness of about 55 mm is already needed. For travel truck tiles of even greater thickness are laid. Previously, paving stones were used for these purposes. Curbs may be needed to mark the boundaries of the path.
There are several options for how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands in the yard or on summer cottage. If you lay it on sand and cement, then over time the tile and base will turn into a monolith. But even in this case, it remains possible to dismantle the entire structure. The reasons for disassembly may be different.
Install the curb sections and secure them in place with thick mortar.
A crushed stone base is recommended for unstable soil. On sandy soil you can do without a substrate. In any case, the surface on which you plan to lay the tiles must be carefully leveled and compacted. In this case, the soil can be added or removed. When using curbs, you need to understand that they can be level or slightly higher than the path. The main task of these elements is to keep the tiles from crawling on unstable soils. Curbs give clearer outlines to the laid massif. To install them, trenches are dug and filled with a 5 cm layer of sand. A curb slab is installed on this cushion, leveled using a level, and fixed.
The entire curb is laid in the same way. To fix its individual elements, sand or soil is used. The depth of the trench should be such that it protrudes above the surface of the tile by 60 percent of its height. It is better to calculate the width of the path from curb to curb so that you do not have to cut and adjust the tiles.
Sand is poured onto the compacted soil in a layer about 7 cm thick, moistened with water and also compacted. In the near-garage area, a layer of crushed stone must be added and a reinforcing mesh is laid. When leveling the surface, especially in the courtyard of a house, you need to leave a slope of about 5 degrees to drain water. In practice, this is equal to approximately 5 mm for every m. The slope is made away from the house, and not vice versa.
Such sidewalk path periodically needs care. It is sometimes cleaned; in winter, when removing snow or ice, you cannot use tools with metal tips. No need to paint or treat tiles chemicals.
The first row of laid tiles can be secured with cement mortar so that the tiles do not crawl or they can be laid away from the curb. To maintain the evenness of the rows, you can pull the cord. It is better to cut and lay pieces of tiles after laying the main body. A fully tiled surface can be additionally compacted with a vibrating plate, if possible. Then the surface will be perfectly smooth. All that remains is to sprinkle everything river sand and brush to fill all the seams. You can fill the joints between the tiles with a mixture of 1 part cement and 10 parts sand. Be sure to moisten with water. If the site or path is in a damp place, then you can take 3 parts of sand.
Paths laid with your own paving slabs require periodic maintenance. They need to be washed and snow and ice removed from them. It is not advisable to use sharp metal tools. There is no need to paint or treat paving slabs with chemicals. This is harmful for the tiles.