Construction wooden house is initially a choice in favor of environmentally friendly materials. When building a wooden house, an important issue remains the installation of a warm and even floor, which will contribute to natural air exchange and maintaining a favorable indoor microclimate. How can you make a floor in wooden house with your own hands, so that it meets all the qualities of a reliable coating and lasts a long time, while maintaining an attractive appearance?
Installation Basics
All possible options Floors suitable for a wooden house are divided into two types: planks and concrete. Wooden floors are similar in structure to a layer cake made from several components:
- Subfloor, insulation (thermal insulation, waterproofing);
- Finish floor, directly flooring.
If construction is necessary, all heating elements and cables must be additionally laid between the layers.
The floor in a wooden house can be built on logs or on poles. The last method is used when the structure is built without concrete foundation. With a monolithic foundation everything is much simpler, but if for some reason you don’t have time to fill concrete base, then you will have to use one of the options for laying the floor on beams. Either beams inserted into the walls (span width 4 m) or beams with support pillars, which look like a columnar foundation.
Laying on support pillars. What floors are like in a wooden house can be seen in the photos taken during renovation work. Based on the type of construction, single-layer and double-layer floors are distinguished. The covering in one layer is installed on logs or without them - this is directly determined by the thickness of the boards and the pitch between the beams. If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then when building a house, the boards can be laid on the beams themselves.
When constructing a two-layer floor, an additional subfloor is installed. What it is? The subfloor can be considered the basis for the finishing layer. Insulation is placed on the rough layer attached to the underside of the beams. An expanded clay layer 8 cm high is suitable for this role. To completely insulate the floor, filler is placed in the space between the rough and finishing layers, and a gap of at least 2 cm is required to ensure air circulation.
Arrangement and insulation of the rough covering of a wooden house. The floor, concrete or wooden, which is built in a house with your own hands, needs. Among modern insulation materials Mineral mats and mineral wool, polyurethane are most often used. The desire to insulate the floor as much as possible must comply with building codes. You cannot lay a thick layer of insulation that fills the entire distance between the rough and finishing layers. There must be a gap of a couple of centimeters.
Floors in a wooden house should be characterized by high strength and also be well ventilated. This is why a rough layer is made. The construction of subfloors in a wooden house is considered necessary for several reasons. Firstly, they provide a frame of rigidity and serve as the basis for insulation, insulation and flooring of the finishing layer. They also create air gap, which ensures heat retention inside the building, eliminates the processes of rotting boards and distortion of the house. All this ensures the preservation and durability of the entire floor covering.
Construction of the rough layer
The choice of constructing a subfloor with your own hands is determined by the type of foundation formed during the construction of the house itself. The rough layer can be installed both on floors in the form reinforced concrete slabs or beams, and on the ground. In any case, preparatory work must first be carried out.
Important element preparation - make ventilation holes. The preparatory stage before installing the subfloor includes the installation of ventilation holes in the walls of the building, which are decorated from the outside decorative grilles. All wooden structures, including the walls of the log house, must be treated with an antiseptic.
The calculation and purchase of materials for the rough layer are made based on the existing base for its laying. If the floor is laid on the ground, then it is necessary to use a design that involves a double subfloor. Initially, the logs are installed on supports (bricks can be used), small pieces of boards are laid on them as a shock absorber, and only then the bars and logs are laid. Each stage of work must be accompanied by constant monitoring of the horizon level so that the installed floor does not have a slope.
In order for a wooden floor to serve for a long time, you need to treat all parts with an antiseptic. The materials used for subfloors in a wooden house usually require additional processing. The logs and beams are pre-planed or cut on a machine, removing bevels and slopes. Ideally, they should be absolutely even. Before installation, all parts are treated with antiseptic preparations to prevent the formation of fungus and premature destruction of the wood.
The subfloor in a wooden house is assembled from the following materials:
- Brick - pillars with parameters 40x40x20 cm are made from it, which are placed on a cement mortar;
- Waterproofing material - for this purpose, choose dense polyethylene or other similar material that can prevent the lag from rotting;
- Boards or plywood - used directly for laying layers of subfloor (the first layer can be made from boards, the second from plywood);
- Corners and bolts (metal) - on them brick pillars logs are attached;
- Insulation - laid together with another layer of waterproofing on the bottom layer of the subfloor.
The amount of all materials is calculated based on the area of the building and the parameters of the installed logs.
Installation of subfloor
How to make a floor in a wooden house yourself? You should start with the installation of the rough part. Logs must be installed if the beams are initially fixed to the walls of the log house, the reason for this is long distance between the beams themselves. To give the future floor rigidity, brick supports are pre-installed under the joists.
Installation of joists for the subfloor. Attaching the joists is the most important step in the construction of the floor. The quality of the future flooring will depend on the quality of the work performed. It is best to attach the logs to the foundation. To do this, first a frame is made from long boards around the entire perimeter, and then the logs themselves are attached to it with metal corners or bolts.
At this stage of installing subfloors in a wooden house, it is required to retreat 2 cm from each wall. All resulting cracks are laid with insulation. Rigid fastening of the logs is not required at this moment; they must be secured so that there is no displacement during operation.
This method is used when the distance of support for the logs exceeds 10 cm; if this distance is less, then the logs are installed the same way, but an additional beam is placed on top, which is fixed in the walls of the house. The places where the beam connects to the wall of the log house are measured, after which a cut is made in accordance with the dimensions, adding 2 cm for the expansion of the wood from moisture.
When the joists are installed, you can attach the cranial bars, which are smaller in size than the joists. The bars are attached to the side at the bottom of the joists. Then boards are placed on them, which are not secured. Such flooring provides the tree with the opportunity to naturally expand.
If you follow the technology for laying the subfloor, even if the wooden elements expand due to moisture, the structure will not be damaged.
After laying the first layer of subfloors, the insulation is laid with your own hands. First, waterproofing is laid over the entire surface of the floor, which is fixed to the walls. The width of its layer on the wall should be equal to the height of the entire floor structure up to finishing. It is recommended to secure the waterproofing above this level, and then simply cut off the excess. The joints of the material are fastened with a construction stapler.
Thermal insulation is required. All laid layers are covered with a vapor barrier, which is also attached to the walls of the log house. The joints of the material are glued with tape, and it is fastened with a construction stapler. If the insulation was laid in such a way that it remained ventilation gap, then after completing the installation of the vapor barrier, you can proceed to laying the second layer of the subfloor. If the insulation was laid at the level of the logs, then first you need to install special slats on the sides - they will press down the insulation so that the necessary gap is formed. Detailed Guide How to lay the floor in an ordinary wooden house can be found in various video tutorials.
Laying the second layer of subfloor from boards or plywood is done in the same way as the logs were secured. 2 cm is also removed from the walls; insulation is placed in the resulting gaps.
Finished floor installation
After the subfloor has been installed in a wooden house, you can proceed to arranging the finishing layer. For finished flooring, it is recommended to use boards made by milling. This floor layer is laid at a height of up to 5 cm from the rough flooring.
To carry out the work, boards 4-5 cm thick and 10-15 cm wide are taken, made with a “groove-tenon” type connection - such a connection facilitates installation and guarantees the reliability of laying the floor. Initially, special recesses are made in the boards on the reverse side - vents, which provide free air exchange under the coating. Other types of boards are also suitable for the finished floor: tongue-and-groove with a rebate or with a trapezoidal or straight segmental tenon. It is more difficult to assemble a finished floor from such boards in a wooden house, because they do not have a vent on the reverse side, and their back parts are not processed, as a result of which they will not fit tightly against the joists.
A floor installed from such material will be less reliable. Most difficult option In terms of labor costs, installation of a finishing surface from unedged boards is considered. In this case, it is best to spend time processing the front sides of the material.
Finished floor boards are placed on joists; they must be placed in annual layers in different directions; this will make your floor smooth, strong and durable. Often used for finishing floors fiberboard sheets. In this case, the space between the walls and the floor will have to be covered with a batten.
The skirting boards are joined at right angles, then they are cut along the length and corners and connected at an angle of 45 degrees. They are nailed to the walls at a distance of 70 cm, and the joints are additionally secured.
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After completing all the work on installing the subfloor and finishing floor, you can gradually begin finishing. The final finishing of the floor in a wooden house can be carried out different ways. For a wooden house, it would seem logical to choose flooring made from the same material. In this case, you have three options for finishing the floor: parquet, parquet board or laminate.
Parquet flooring is called not only the most respectable, but also one of the most durable. The parquet elements are attached to the base of the floor with glue and, if necessary, additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. After laying the parquet, it is coated with a special varnish; for the greatest protection against abrasion, the varnish can be applied not in one layer, but in several. Proper installation of parquet ensures its operation for 20 years.
Parquet board is a type of parquet, but is not made from solid wood. This is a special design of three layers, the top of which is valuable wood veneer treated with varnish. Such a board is easier to install and, if necessary, much easier to dismantle.
The third option for finishing the floor for a wooden house is laminate with a wood pattern. It is based on a fiberboard panel protected from below with moisture-resistant paper. Above the fiberboard panel there is decorative paper imitating the pattern of wood, which is coated with acrylate resin on top. Laminate is the most budget option floor finishing from all of the above.
Subfloors on wooden beams - widely used architectural elements construction of buildings. Depending on the specific place placement and features of buildings, perform various functions and differ in arrangement technology. How to do the work yourself? Read more below.
Subfloors are used for the following purposes.
The technology for making subfloors largely depends on their specific purpose.
Design features of subfloors
Features of the manufacture of subfloors take into account the methods of attaching beams or floor joists. Beams can be installed on different structures.
Table. Structures on which beams can be installed.
| Design name | Brief characteristics |
|---|---|
| This option is used during construction wooden log houses or panel houses. On columnar foundations Load-bearing elements of the first floor floor are installed. Due to the fact that the lower surface of the beams rests on the foundation, the subfloors can only be fastened to the cranial beam. They are fixed to the side surface of the joists or beams. Except in cases where the beams are made of round timber and do not have flat side surfaces. The second option is to install subfloors on top of the beams to support the base of the finishing flooring. |
| Subfloors are made on joists, fixed to the side cranial bars or top surfaces. A waterproofing barrier is used between the slabs and beams. |
| The ends of the beams lie on the foundation strip or lower crowns log house The subfloor can be installed both on the side surfaces and on top or bottom of the beams. |
It must be borne in mind that fastening the subfloors to the skull beam reduces the thickness of the insulating layer. If the width of the beams or joists is less than 15 cm, then it is not advisable to use this option. The point is that the recommended minimum thickness insulation is more than 10 cm; with a decrease in this indicator, the effectiveness of insulation is significantly reduced.
Beams - supporting elements for the construction of a floor or ceiling, must withstand maximum design loads, have a margin of safety. Depending on the purpose and operating conditions of the premises, the thickness of the beams and the distance between them are selected. The materials can be used beams with dimensions of 50×50 mm or more or boards with parameters from 50×150 mm. On lumber with smooth surfaces, the subfloor can be attached from the bottom, side or top; on round beams - only from the bottom or top.
Table. What elements does a classic subfloor consist of?
| Item name | Purpose and description |
|---|---|
| The main load-bearing element absorbs all static and dynamic forces. In each individual case, individual calculations are made based on linear parameters and distance steps. They can rest on columns, foundation strip, floor slab, facade walls or load-bearing interior partitions. |
| Size - approximately 20x30 mm, fixed to the side surfaces of the beams, used for laying subfloor boards. |
| The waterproofing is laid on the subfloor, which serves as the foundation for the finishing floor. Vapor barrier is used to protect insulation from increased relative humidity; it is used on the first floors or ceilings. |
Depending on the specific placement and purpose of the subfloors, the listed elements may be added or excluded. We'll look at a few of the most commonly used types of subfloors.
Subfloor in a log house on beams
The beams must be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic, preferably at least twice. The ends can lie on strip foundation or timber, between concrete and wooden structures Two layers of roofing felt waterproofing must be laid. The upper and lower planes of the beams are hewn with an axe, the side surfaces are sanded. The subfloor will be made from sheets of moisture-resistant OSB approximately 1 cm thick. Keep in mind that the final thickness of the slab should be selected taking into account the distance between the beams. Main criterion choice - the sheets should not bend under their own weight. You can also use cheaper materials: unedged sanded boards of the third grade, used lumber, pieces of plywood, etc.
If you plan to insulate the floor, then it is recommended to keep the distance between the beams within 55 cm. The fact is that pressed or rolled wool has a standard width of 60 cm, due to this distance between the beams the insulation will be pressed tightly against the side surfaces, and this greatly increases efficiency insulation. In addition, mineral wool does not have to be cut, which speeds up construction work and minimizes the amount of unproductive losses of expensive material.
Step 1. Place the beams in place at the specified distance, check the position of the top surfaces - they should all lie on the same level. It is better to use a rope to check. Stretch it between the two outer beams and adjust all the rest to this level. To adjust it, it is better to cut off the excess height; if this is difficult to do, then you can use pads. Professional builders do not recommend using wooden wedges; over time they will shrink. It is much better to use plastic or metal ones. Use a level to check the horizontal position of the beams.
Step 2. Remove the beam, unscrew it from the square. In the future, the element must be installed in the same place, otherwise the linearity of the finished floor may be disrupted, and unpleasant squeaks will appear when walking. Turn it upside down and place it on a free space on the foundation.
Step 3. From OSB boards, cut strips 5–6 cm wider than the width of the bottom of the beam. The length does not matter; if necessary, the strips can be joined.
Practical advice! In order to save material, not continuous strips can be screwed into squares at the bottom of the beam. The distance between them is 30–50 cm. The subfloor does not bear any load, the mass of insulation is negligible, and there is no need to make strong shelves to install the subfloor.
Below, across the beams, beams are packed - one of the possible options
Step 4. Using an electric drill or screwdriver, secure the strips to the beam. Use self-tapping screws, the length of which should be at least one third greater than the thickness of the OSB board. Otherwise, the fixation will be fragile. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use ordinary nails of appropriate sizes.
Step 5. Proceed in a similar manner with all remaining beams. Unscrew them one by one, fix the OSB strips and install them in their original place.
Step 6. Cut the OSB boards to fit the width of the subfloor. If you have accurately maintained the distances between the beams, then you can prepare all the elements at once. If for some reason the distances between the beams are not the same, then each strip will have to be measured separately.
Step 7 Place the sheets on the shelves. There is no need to achieve a complete absence of gaps; the subfloor for insulation does not require precise adherence to dimensions.
Practical advice! To make work easier, cut the sheets 1–2 cm narrower than the distance between the shelves. The fact is that the beam has bulges on the sides that narrow the clearance; by slightly reducing the width of the sheets, it is much easier to install them in place. Another advantage of reducing the width is that a compensating gap appears. OSB boards change quite significantly during changes in relative humidity linear dimensions. If there are no compensating gaps, the sheets may swell. This is not critical for the subfloor, but swelling indicates low qualifications of the builders.
Step 8 To reduce heat loss, you can fill all the cracks with foam.
polyurethane foam
At this point, the production of the subfloor is completed, and you can begin laying the insulation. How to do it?
Step 1. Place a vapor barrier on the beams and subfloor, do not stretch it too tightly, and fasten it to the wood with a stapler. For vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern non-woven materials or ordinary cheap polyethylene film. There is no difference in efficiency, but the price can differ by an order of magnitude.
Vapor barrier is a mandatory element, do not neglect it. The fact is that mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to increased humidity. As the indicator increases, thermal conductivity increases exponentially, which sharply reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Another operational drawback is that the material takes a long time to dry. This means that wet wool will have prolonged contact with wooden structures. Such unfavorable conditions significantly reduce the service life of lumber.
Important! Never store insulation in open areas. If you suspect high humidity Dry the material thoroughly, use only dry cotton wool.
Step 2. Lay the first layer on the subfloor mineral wool 5 cm thick. Press the edges tightly, do not allow any gaps to form. Pressed mineral wool is slightly compressed and has elasticity, which allows it to occupy the most convenient place.
Step 3. Lay the second layer of insulation with the seams offset. To do this, first place the piece remaining from the last piece of pressed mineral wool. Using the same algorithm, insulate the entire area of the subfloor. The thickness of floor insulation for the northern regions of the country should be at least 15 cm, for the average climate zone 10 cm is enough.
Practical recommendation! You should not insulate the floor with one thin layer of mineral wool; a thickness of 5 cm has almost no heat-saving effect. Especially on the first floor, where there is a permanent natural ventilation and heat is quickly removed from the premises.
Step 4. Cover the insulation. For this you can use any special materials. The waterproofing is fixed with a stapler, the width of the overlaps is at least 10 cm, the ends of the material are hermetically sealed with tape.
Step 5. Nail 20×30 slats or remaining OSB strips onto the joists on top of the waterproofing membrane. The slats will ensure ventilation of the finished floor and prevent mold from appearing underneath it.
The underground must have ventilation holes that provide multiple air exchanges. Don’t forget to cover the openings with metal bars to protect the underground from rodents. Modern mineral wool has very thin fibers; rodents can easily make passages in it and build nests. As a result, not only the thermal protection indicators deteriorate, but also mice appear in the premises.
At this point, the subfloor is completely ready, you can begin laying the finished floor boards.
Subfloor on the attic floor
It has several options; for example, we will consider the most complex of them. It is better to file the ceiling before installing the subfloor, but this condition is not necessary. When working with mineral wool insulation, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask to protect the respiratory system, and wear rubberized gloves on your hands.
Since there is no ceiling covering, nail a vapor barrier membrane underneath. Attach it securely; at first it will support the weight of the insulation.
Important! By doing further work Make special passages in the attic for walking and place long boards in these places. To increase safety, it is recommended to temporarily fix them. The boards will somewhat complicate the process of laying insulation, but they will minimize the risks of unpleasant situations.
Step 1. Start laying insulation in the space between the beams attic floor. We have already mentioned that when calculating the distance between beams, you need to take into account the standard width of materials for thermal insulation. Lay it as tightly as possible; if there are two layers, then their joints should be offset.
Important! When laying rolled mineral wool, do not allow sharp bends - in these places the thickness of the insulation is significantly reduced and a cold bridge is formed. And one more piece of advice. Do not press down the cotton too much or artificially reduce its thickness. Unlike the pressed one, the rolled one cannot withstand any loads.
Step 2. Install a wind and vapor barrier membrane. Rolled mineral wool is easily blown through by drafts, and along with the supply fresh air heat is removed. The membranes are fixed to the beams with a stapler. Professional builders do not recommend stretching the membranes too much; it is advisable that they lie loosely on top of the insulation. In case of leaks, water will not get onto the insulation through the holes made by the stapler staples.
Step 3. Secure the membrane to the beams with thin slats. Lay subfloor boards on the slats. They can be screwed on with self-tapping screws or nailed.
Subfloor for laminate
This type of subfloor requires a more demanding attitude to the quality of the coating. If floors are made between floors, then insulation can be omitted. Warm air from the premises of the first floor does not go to the street, but heats the second floor. Due to this, the microclimate parameters of the rooms on the second floor are improved. Insulation is done only on attic floors.
The subfloor serves as the base for laminate flooring and must meet three requirements.
- Hardness. The thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams are selected in such a way that deformation of the planes is completely eliminated under the maximum possible loads.
- Humidity. The relative humidity of lumber should not exceed 20%. Before laying, the boards must be dried in a heated room for several days. During this time they will acquire natural humidity and will not change linear dimensions.
- Flatness. The deviation in plane height cannot exceed two millimeters per two meters of length. Otherwise, the laminate floor will begin to make very unpleasant sounds while walking, appearing due to the friction of the elements in the connecting locks. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds. Will have to be completely dismantled flooring, level the subfloor and only then lay the laminate again. The work takes a long time and is expensive, it is better to immediately pay attention to the quality. For subfloors, you should only use lumber that has been passed through a double-sided planer. The final adjustment of the subfloor under the laminate can be done with a parquet machine or with a hand plane. The choice of tool depends on total area coatings
The levelness of the base should be checked long level Or as a rule, place tools in different places on the subfloor and pay attention to the gaps. If deviations are detected, the plane should be leveled with one of the tools. If the difference in height of the subfloor does not exceed a millimeter, then the unpleasant creaking may disappear on its own after a few months of operation. During this time the elements lock connection will partially rub in, the abutting parts will reduce their thickness. Those that are not used in are slightly deformed, due to which the density of the locking joint decreases. These changes will not affect the quality and durability of laminate floors.
When fixing the subfloor under the laminate, you need to slightly recess the heads of the nails or screws into the boards. The fact is that it is even theoretically impossible to achieve a perfectly even fit of the boards to the beams. Over time, in places where the boards sag, the nails may come out slightly from the beams, causing the head to rise above the plane of the boards. This is very undesirable for laminate floors. They are laid on a special bedding and have hermetically sealed waterproofing. Hardware caps with sharp edges damage the membrane layer, the tightness of the waterproofing is broken. Moisture that gets between the laminate and the subfloor through the holes causes fungi and rot to appear on the wood. It is impossible to see the problem in a timely manner; it is discovered after the lumber has lost its original properties. As a result, elimination requires complex special measures; sometimes it is necessary to change the supporting structures.
On a note! Wooden beams should be able to move a little, never fix them in a stationary state. Today there are special metal stops on sale that allow the ends to move along the length.
And one last thing. The most the best option For laying subfloors under laminate coatings, waterproof OSB boards or plywood are considered. Sheets big size, due to this, the number of joints is minimized, and it is much easier to smooth out sudden changes in height. The slabs must be laid with damper gaps approximately 2–3 mm wide, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material. Otherwise, swelling of the laminate floor is likely; eliminating it will require the complete dismantling of both the finishing coating and the leveling base.
pox plate
Video - OSB subfloor
Every person knows that it is not possible to live fully in an apartment or house without a furnished floor. It is simply necessary. Is it worth doing it in a wooden house? This is a question that worries many. Their logic boils down to the fact that why spend money on an additional subfloor, it might be easier to just lay a finished floor right away. Everything is ambiguous here.
You can, of course, get by with a clean one, but in this case you won’t be able to get a reliable and beautiful coating. But the main thing that a floor should stand out for is reliability, strength, a flat surface, as well as some other parameters, which are extremely difficult to achieve without a subfloor. Changing the finished floor every year if there is no rough floor is an unaffordable luxury.
Photo: subfloor in a wooden house
Subfloor - what is it?
A subfloor is a special base for a finished floor, which forms a flat horizontal plane for it. The subfloor ensures the distribution of the load that acts on the floor covering.
In a wooden house, the subfloor can be made in several ways:
- wooden on joists;
- plywood flooring;
- pouring concrete.
Wooden subfloor on joists
In a wooden house, the installation of a subfloor on joists is practically no different from its installation in monolithic or brick houses. The main difference is in the fastening of the lags.
General scheme devices
Attaching the log
Floor joists should not be attached to wooden wall, and you don’t need to crash into it. It is advisable to fasten the logs to the base or grillage of the foundation, retreating from the wall a few centimeters. At the same time, the distance of the support that falls on the foundation must be maintained at least 10 cm on either side of the log.
The logs are attached to the base
Before laying logs on the foundation, they must be laid bottom trim, made of long thin boards, to which logs will be attached using metal anchors (corners).
The logs should not be rigidly attached to the frame - they only need to be fixed so that they do not move while laying other layers of the subfloor. The created structure will have a distance of several cm from each wall, where thin insulation can be installed.
Waterproofing of logs is required
If the distance to the foundation is less than 10 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls, but you will need to first lay the logs on the foundation, and then attach a log or timber to them. Measure the contour of the cutout and then cut out the necessary grooves in the wood with the dimensions required for the support distance (for subsequent expansion of the lag, approximately 2 cm should be added).
We must not forget that the laying of beams and joists is carried out on the plinth or grillage only after laying the waterproofing layer.
The logs are attached to the foundation grillage
The standard step between the lags is 40-60 cm. However, its choice depends on the width of the insulation, as well as the direct load. The lag section is also selected from effective load. For a light section, choose 15×10 cm, for a medium one – 15×15 cm, for a heavy one – 15×20 cm.
If the beam has a small cross-section and the load is significant, then it should be placed at a distance of 30-40 cm - this is a fairly optimal option.
Installation of subfloor on joists
Upon completion of installation, the lag is made standard installation floors on joists. It looks like this:
A ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the floorboard.
Important! Boards, bars and joists should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from exposure to various fungi and insects.
Plywood subfloor
A plywood floor will serve reliably for a long time. It has high strength. Plywood can even be used for the final floor covering, since if it is carefully sanded and varnished, it will look quite noble. However, it is more often used as a base for covering laminate, parquet and linoleum.
Laying plywood on an old floor
Plywood can be laid:
- On a cement base, but it is necessary to ensure that the base is even and horizontal, or to use adjusting posts.
- Fastening on logs. Here the difficulty is in placing the joists to ensure that the joints of the sheets fall on them. The logs must be positioned so that their upper surface provides one horizontal plane. Hiding in the logs engineering Communication, insulation and sound insulation are installed.
Laying plywood on joists
Important! When laying plywood in one layer, it is necessary that its thickness be at least 15 mm; if in two layers, then you need to choose at least 9 mm for the layer.
Before final installation of plywood, all dust and debris must be removed from the base. It is also advisable to perform priming, that is, treat with a special primer.
The load from the structure falls on its foundation. The structure that precedes the final coating and serves as the basis for the insulation is the “subfloor”. The temperature regime of your room depends on how it is installed. If there are cracks left in it, cold air will begin to flow in from below, dampness and a rotten smell will appear in the house.
Description
When choosing a material for the load-bearing beams of the floor structure as a whole, consider the area of the room for which it will be intended. The larger it is, the thicker they are. This factor is explained by the fact that the final coating and all materials involved in the process installation work, should be evenly distributed on them.
How to make a subfloor in a wooden house
There are several options for its formation, but the “dry” method is more often used.
The subfloor is formed according to the following principles:
- According to the lags.
- “Prefabricated”, using dry screed.
- “Adjustable” (on plywood and chipboard).
"Prefabricated" subfloor
"Adjustable" subfloor
If the boards are laid on logs, then they are laid on the following base:
- Beams.
- Reinforced concrete slab.
The adjustable floor is formed on the following bases:
- Lags.
- Plywood.
What do you need to know?
It is laid on the main floor using less hard wood. These include coniferous varieties. These are the following types:
- Edged board.
- Gorbyl
In order to achieve the expected results from the installation, you need to know the following:
- The basis of the entire floor structure is a beam, which is laid on a layer of waterproofing (two layers of roofing felt).
- A roll of paper is spread on it protective material or 2 layers of high density polyethylene.
- Logs are attached to the beam, which serve as a frame for installation. They are not brought to the walls, leaving a gap of up to 30 mm. This distance will be insurance against possible soil shrinkage (change temperature regime and level groundwater in the soil) and natural fluctuations in the moisture content of the log during its operation.
- The artificially created free area between the wall must be filled with mineral wool.
- The entire tree must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. If materials that are ready for use are purchased, then the cuts made must be protected from moisture and bark beetles.
Do-it-yourself subfloor in a wooden house
To carry out the work, use a board with a thickness of 15 to 20 mm. Properly prepared for milling machines raw material, will create grooves and shoulders on its side. This option will eliminate the need to work with a hammer and nails, which will speed up the assembly process and the tightness of the connection. The rigidity of the structure will not create creaking.
The thickness of the subfloor board affects the distance (step) between the joists. The larger it is, the wider this gap. For example:
- With a board thickness of 40 mm, the step between the lags can reach one meter.
- With a thickness of 35 cm, the step between the logs should not exceed 850 cm.
- If the thickness is less than 35 cm, the step between the lags should not exceed 60 cm.
Of great importance correct location foundation pillars. They are located around the entire perimeter and in the central part of the building.
The thickness of the log is directly related to the spacing of the foundation pillars, since the main beam is attached to them.
The following relationships should be observed between the dimensions of the logs and the pitch of the foundation pillars, expressed in centimeters:
- The logs are 40 thick with a pitch of no more than 900.
- Logs thickness 50 at a pitch of 1100.
- Logs thickness 60 at a pitch of 1300.
Installation of subfloor using plywood
The sequence of work is as follows.
- The beams are placed on a layer of waterproofing.
- They lay on them roll material, providing protection from moisture.
- They fix the logs.
- They are lined with 10 mm thick plywood sheets or moisture-resistant boards (MDS, VAT).
- Joint seams close construction tape or fill in sealant.
- Cover the subfloor with a layer of vapor barrier.
To insulate against condensation from the room side, the following materials are used:
- Cement mortar.
- Thick cellophane in 2 layers.
- Rolled foamed polyethylene on a foil base (lay with foil to the room) and other materials.
An air barrier must remain between the vapor barrier and the floorboards. The subfloor must be ventilated through holes in the foundation (vent).
Before application, insulate pipes and meters with construction tape. Apply it in layers using a brush, roller or rubber spatula. Please pay attention Special attention hard to reach places. After the first layer, self-adhesive tape must be applied to all joints and joints. It will be covered with the second layer. The composition should be partially applied to the wall (its lower part).
There are other materials for carrying out similar work. Rolled foil insulation can be used, which will simultaneously help insulate from noise and retain heat in the room. They are laid overlapping with the metal part towards the room.
Video: Correct installation subfloor
Conclusion
This type of “dry subfloor” can serve as the basis for the formation of the main coating. In some cases for installation parquet board or laminate, the finished structure is covered with a layer of waterproof plasterboard.
Video: How to make a subfloor from plywood?
- 1 Rough screed options in brick house
- 1.1 On the ground
- 1.2 Dry method
- 1.3 On adjustable joists
- 1.4 Dry screed
- 1.5 Wet screed
- 2 In a wooden house
- 3 Videos
In this article we will tell you how to properly make a subfloor in a wooden and brick house, we will look at various methods, and also show photos and video instructions.
The subfloor is a leveled base prepared for laying flooring. Therefore, for quality performance self-repair, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the construction of the subfloor.
Options for rough screed in a brick house
Options for rough screed in a brick house
A rough screed in a brick house can be made using various technologies. Final choice will depend on what finishing finishing material will be used. For example, if the floor is laid ceramic tile, then you will need to construct a concrete subfloor. If you want a wooden floor, then a dry screed is constructed accordingly. You can read more about this or that type of rough screed below.
On the ground
On the ground
This screed method is considered economical since there is no need to install beams. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the soil by making a sand cushion and providing insulation.
A subfloor on the ground is only suitable if the ground is completely dry.
Sand compaction
So, before direct pouring, the soil is compacted. This is important to do to prevent it from shrinking. Afterwards a sand cushion is made. After slightly moistening the sand, use a vibrator to compact it. As a result, it should decrease to 25%. For greater strength, granite can be added as the next layer.
The next step is to perform waterproofing. It is necessary to prevent moisture from the soil from penetrating into the house. For example, you can use a polymer membrane or rolled bitumen. The material is laid with an overlap of up to 200 mm. Also, the waterproofing should extend to the walls, to a height of 200 mm. After pouring the screed, all remnants will need to be trimmed.
Preparing for screed
The subfloor is poured over the ground in a thin layer. It will serve as a platform for hydro- and vapor barrier. For rough screed, it is recommended to use class B concrete. Its filler is crushed stone with a diameter of up to 22 mm. Optimal thickness The rough layer on the ground is considered to be 50 mm. Filling is carried out according to the level. When the screed has dried, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the floor, for example, a polymer-bitumen membrane, which contains fiberglass or polyester. The use of this material will allow significant savings on heating costs in the future. After this, insulation is performed with foam plastic or other suitable insulation.
Dry method
Laying the subfloor on joists. This method requires less time and effort than concrete screed. In addition, no water is used when performing it, so the humidity remains unchanged and other processes can be produced in parallel. renovation work. The logs are mounted on beams or on a concrete base.
Subfloor on joists
When laying a subfloor on joists, you need to know some nuances:
- you will need to make horizontal markings using a stretched cord or a horizontal level throughout the entire course of work;
- It is worth checking the quality of drying of the wood used;
- to avoid condensation, it is worth protecting the logs with a simple waterproofing agent;
- in the living room, the logs should be spaced in increments of 35-40 cm, and their size varies in width from 8 to 10 cm, and in thickness from 2.5 to 6 cm;
- in case of uneven reinforced concrete covering Installation of logs is carried out on pads made of pre-glued plywood;
- holes are made at the base of the floor for plastic dowels into which the logs will be attached using screws;
- if necessary, insulating material is used.
As a rule, the subfloor is laid from chipboard, the hardness of which is determined based on the finish coating.
For adjustable joists
Installing adjustable joists
It is becoming increasingly popular and is mounted using strong and reliable plastic screws. A floor made in this way will never creak, and the work will not take much time.
Installation process:
- Each lag is prepared separately: a hole is drilled in it and a screw is screwed into it;
- The logs are laid in place at a distance of 1 cm from the wall surface;
As an alternative to an adjustable floor, a floor made of chipboard mounted on bushings with internal thread. Thus, the plywood sheet has legs, but at the same time it is able to withstand enormous loads.
Dry screed
Dry screed
This method makes it possible to level out all defects in the base, and any temperature conditions.
Dry method Technological process:
Wet screed
Wet screed
This method is widely used since all materials are freely available and are relatively inexpensive.
Their installation is carried out in the following way:
A self-leveling floor can also be used, which simultaneously plays the role of a finishing and rough screed.
It is poured onto a previously cleaned and primed base. After pouring the solution, the surface is leveled using a special needle roller, which will rid the surface of all air bubbles.
The thickness of the layer of such a screed is no more than 3 mm, respectively, and its drying time is much less than that of a cement screed and is no more than 14 days.
In a wooden house
Subfloor of a wooden house
In a private house, it is necessary to provide good ventilation in the cellar by making holes there. If there is damp soil in the basement, a clay or concrete insulating layer is laid.
It is also worth waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt or other similar material.
All wooden elements floor structures must be treated twice with an antiseptic.
Laying the subfloor in a wooden house is done using boards, on top of which a waterproofing material, material for thermal and vapor insulation, is laid.
These are all the main options for installing a subfloor; which one is suitable is up to you to decide, based on the finishing floor covering.
- how to paint a wooden floor in a house;
- how to insulate a balcony floor with expanded clay;
- how to make a polymer floor with your own hands.
The process of constructing a subfloor is presented in the following videos: