Carrots are a vegetable that is included in 95% of dishes. Vitamins and microelements support health and immunity, restore performance after illness. That is why more than half of gardeners and gardeners strive to grow it on their site.
Soil features: which one to choose for planting
A large harvest can be obtained even from 1-2 beds; it is enough to know some nuances, including: what kind of soil carrots like, how to prepare it and create optimal conditions for growth and development. It is best to choose the following soil types:
- loose loamy;
- sandy loam (light or medium in severity).
The optimal acidity of the soil is neutral, slightly acidic is allowed. If the soil prepared for planting carrots has a high clay content (more than 45%), then it will be necessary to apply fertilizers and include humus in the soil. If these substances are missing, it will begin to dry out. As a result, a dense crust is formed, which will become an obstacle to seed germination and their further development.
Additional conditions for harvesting a good harvest:
- The soil is prepared - there is drainage.
- The soil should not be heavy.
- Mineral fertilizers are introduced in minimal quantities.
Fresh manure is prohibited, as it can cause the death of crops. It is better to use humus.
Excessive organic matter in the soil affects appearance root vegetables – “horned”, twisted carrots.
Also, a signal that the quality of the soil is not high enough is the appearance of a carrot fly - it is attracted to organic matter.
Preparation: important nuances
In order for the soil to become ideal for carrots, it needs to be properly prepared. It is important to know the original type so that you can apply the appropriate fertilizer.
If it is peat, then it is necessary to add:
- river sand (coarse grain);
- humus (you can order ready-made or use compost);
- crushed sawdust;
- turf land;
- manure (rotted);
- peat should also be used.
When planting in sandy soil, it is better to add:
- turf;
- peat;
- humus;
- sawdust (or any wood waste).
Complex mineral fertilizer will create ideal conditions for the germination of seeds and the development of root crops from them.
Chernozem will require the following:
- sawdust;
- river sand
- and superphosphate.
Under these conditions, it will be easy to grow a good harvest.
Preparation stages
The soil for further growing carrots must be properly prepared.
The spring growing stage is over. No additional fertilizer is required.
Important! Beds for planting carrots are used intermittently - the vegetable can be returned after 4 years.
Creation of a microclimate and selection of predecessors
The quality and quantity of the future harvest will depend on the type of soil available in the garden bed. This is why care should be taken to create optimal conditions. For carrots you need soil that is loose and warm, with good natural ventilation. The clay layer must be fertilized using humus. In order for the soil to become loamy, it is important to add sand. Sowing is carried out from the 20th of April and continues until the 10th of May, but the temperature should be at least +4 degrees at night. The seedlings can withstand frosts down to -4 degrees. An important parameter is the illumination - the soil intended for sowing carrots should be at sunny side plot. 
It is possible to plant carrots before winter, but for this they are used exclusively early varieties.
Particular attention should be paid to predecessor plants that were grown in previous seasons. The following are considered good for carrots:
- cucumbers;
- zucchini;
- tomatoes;
- potato;
- cabbage;
- onion.
Bad predecessors that reduce soil quality indicators:
- parsley;
- beans.
Also, carrots should not be replanted in the same soil. If this is not possible, then additional fertilizers will need to be added to the soil. The vegetable is undemanding to moisture, so frequent watering will not be necessary, but sometimes you will have to thin out so that the root crops grow large.
Thus, obtaining a harvest depends entirely on compliance with the rules for preparing the land for planting. Loam can give good results, you just need to add fertilizer.
If you need to prepare a sleigh in the summer, then a vegetable garden is better in the fall. Proper cultivation during this period includes preparing the soil (digging and adding various substrates to improve its physical characteristics), applying fertilizers, and for some crops also mulching and covering winter plantings. Such actions significantly increase next year's harvest. It is best to prepare beds in the fall for various crops, taking into account the requirements of each of them.
How to prepare strawberry beds for winter
Strawberry, or garden strawberries, accumulates resources for future fruiting in the fall. Therefore, if you want to get a rich harvest of berries, and also protect them from frost, read in advance how to prepare strawberries for winter in the garden.
Autumn is the time to prepare the garden for the new season.
Autumn care for strawberry plantings
The main activities for caring for strawberries are best carried out after the end of fruiting, at the end of July, in August or at the beginning of September. What to do during this period:
- Carefully, so as not to damage the growing points of young leaves, cut off old leaves and tendrils;
- remove weeds from the area;
- loosen the soil between the bushes, while hilling the plants a little (do not cover the growing point);
- apply fertilizers and, if necessary, treat with insecticides;
- Water the plantings abundantly, but not often, soaking the soil well.
Trimming old leaves
The root system of the plant is superficial, even with proper preparation of the strawberry bed it is injured, therefore, the sooner you treat the plantings, the stronger the bushes will be and the better they will withstand the winter. In the fall, especially before frost, do not pull out weeds in the area; leave this activity until spring.
Fertilizing strawberry plantings
After the strawberries have finished fruiting, don’t forget to feed them. Before winter sets in, you need to do this twice:
- Immediately after harvesting (late July - early September) - use nitroammophoska, scattering it around the bushes (consumption 25-30 g per 1 sq. m.), or prepare its aqueous solution (2 tbsp. per 10 liters of water), pouring 0.5 liters for each bush. You can also use organic fertilizers, for example, mullein. Dilute it with water 1:3, leave for two days, add 1 glass of ash and apply 0.5 liters to each plant.
- In late autumn (from the end of October), mulch the strawberry beds with humus or rotted compost, consumption 3–5 kg per 1 sq. m. m. You can also add superphosphate.
Sprinkle fertilizer around the bushes
When fertilizing the area, avoid getting fertilizers (especially dry mineral ones) on the leaves and growing points of plants, this can cause burns and destroy the bushes.
Ideal winter shelter
Garden strawberries, if there is ample snow cover, tolerate frost well, but cold winters with little snow can destroy the plants. To avoid this outcome, do not forget to insulate the strawberry beds in the fall after establishing a stable subzero temperature. You shouldn’t do this before; slight frosts will be beneficial.
The list of materials that can be used for shelter is quite extensive, but each has its own advantages and disadvantages:
- Leaves, hay, straw are the most available materials, but they cake, it is quite difficult to separate them from the plants in the spring, the bushes under them can rot, and mice often overwinter in the straw, damaging strawberry plantings.
- Pine needles, fir branches – optimal choice for shelter, has good air permeability, which prevents damping out, but at the same time retains heat well.
- Agrofibre - protects crops well from freezing, but it must be stretched over pre-installed arcs (the so-called air-dry shelter) so that the material does not come into contact with the plants, otherwise they will freeze even more than in the open air.
Covering strawberries for the winter with straw
In regions with little snowy winters, pay attention not only to the plants, but also to the row spacing, mulch them with leaves, straw, grass, and so on. This way you will save the superficial root system strawberries, because the soil will dry out, freeze and crack less.
Autumn preparation of beds
Plots for annuals garden crops also prepared in the fall. During the winter, the soil sags, becomes saturated with added minerals and organic compounds, and by spring it is almost completely ready for new plantings.
Preparing a bed for onions
Preparing beds for onions in the fall begins with choosing a location. Set them up where cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes grew, these are the best predecessor plants. Avoid places where garlic, carrots and, naturally, onions grew; it can be returned to its original place in 3-5 years. Compliance with sewing cycles not only optimizes plant nutrition, but also protects them from pests and pathogens.
Basic requirements for a landing site:
- sunny, open area;
- no weeds;
- non-acidic loamy or sandy loam soil;
- moderate soil moisture.
Fertilizers are evenly distributed throughout the area
If the area that was planned to be allocated for onions does not correspond to the ideal, it does not matter, everything can be corrected. So, lime acidic soil two years before planting onions. In addition to slaked lime, you can use wood ash, chalk, limestone and other substances. Build high beds on waterlogged soils.
Now about how to properly prepare a bed for onions. Autumn activities in this matter are quite simple:
- remove weeds;
- apply fertilizer;
- Dig the soil to the depth of a spade.
Small sets for autumn planting
How to fertilize a bed for onions? Before digging, apply organic fertilizers, optimally 5 kg of compost or humus and 1 kg wood ash per 1 sq. m. You can use chicken manure at the rate of 200 g per square meter. m. In addition, mineral fertilizers are applied in the fall. For example, 20 g of double superphosphate and 15 g of calcium chloride per 1 sq. m of territory.
The recommended width of the onion bed is 45–90 cm, and the length is determined mainly by the size of the plot. Defining optimal parameters for sowing, keep in mind that the width between the furrows for planting onions should be about 20 cm, and the distance between the sets should be about 8 cm. Do not forget to leave wide passages between the plantings, they will greatly facilitate the care of crops.
Some gardeners practice autumn planting Luke. To do this, select the smallest set, less than 1 cm in diameter. Plant it in early October, about 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. Deepen the bulbs into the ground 3 cm, and mulch the top with leaves, straw, pine needles or spruce branches.
Preparing a bed for carrots
Do you want to know how to prepare a carrot bed in the fall so that next year get a good harvest? The main activities during this period come down to choosing a location, digging and fertilizing the soil. Proper preparation will allow you to grow beautiful root crops and significantly increase productivity.
Choose a place in the garden, taking into account the compatibility of the crop with its predecessor plants. It is better if the carrot bed is laid out in the place where potatoes, legumes, cabbage, and tomatoes previously grew. It is advisable that carrots should not be sown here for the previous 4-5 years. The following soil parameters are optimal for root crops:
- high level of humus;
- pH (acidity coefficient) 5.6 – 7;
- easy permeability (loose loams or sandy soils).
Carrots grown on unprepared soil
Please note that in heavy or rocky soils, the roots will grow small and twisted. A similar effect is observed when fresh manure is added before planting.
Ideal preparation of a bed for carrots should take into account the characteristics of the soil on the site:
- peat - per 1 sq. m of land add 5 kg river sand, 3-5 kg of humus, 6 kg of turf soil;
- clayey and podzolic - per 1 sq. m – 1–2 buckets of peat and sand, 1 bucket of humus, 3–5 kg of sawdust (preferably not fresh);
- light loamy - the same as for clay soils, only without sand;
- chernozem - per 1 sq. m – 0.5 buckets of small stale sawdust and 1 bucket of sand.
Preparing high beds for carrots
In addition, add superphosphate from mineral fertilizers at the rate of 20 g per 1 square meter. m (some replace it with wood ash), as well as potassium salt - 10–15 g per 1 sq. m. After adding all the substances, dig up the area 1-2 shovels deep and level the surface.
The size of the carrot beds largely depends on the size of the plot, but experts do not recommend making them too wide. Narrow beds 45–90 cm wide and wide row spacing will provide the plants with maximum illumination. Please note that plantings should be placed at a distance of 25 cm between rows. The depth of the carrot bed should be at least 30 cm.
Preparing a bed for garlic
A bed for garlic in the fall is prepared as for planting winter varieties in open ground before the onset of frost, and for planting spring varieties in the spring. Site preparation usually begins in early September, and the basics of agricultural technology are the same for all types of plants. Answering the question: how to properly make a bed for garlic, we can distinguish several important steps:
- choosing a location taking into account planting changes and soil characteristics;
- removing weeds and digging up the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm;
- application of fertilizers.
Winter garlic, prepared for planting
bed under winter garlic place it where pumpkins, legumes, and early cabbage grew. It can be returned to its original planting site no earlier than three years later, but if you still have to plant plants there again, pay attention to how to treat the garden bed after garlic in order to prevent diseases. To do this, water the soil with a solution of 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, consumption is approximately 1 bucket per 2 square meters. m. After watering, cover the ground with film.
Garlic prefers light, dry areas with light sandy loam soil. You can “improve” other soils with simple additions:
- heavy clay soils– 1 bucket of peat and river sand per 1 sq. m;
- peat soils - 1 bucket of river sand and loamy soil per 1 sq. m of territory;
- sandy soils - 2 buckets of clay soil and 1 bucket of peat per 1 sq. m plot.
Garlic plantings mulched with humus
A garlic bed needs fertilizer in the fall:
- organic - preferably compost or humus (1 bucket per 1 sq. m), but in no case fresh manure, it significantly increases the incidence of plantings and the susceptibility of plants to various microorganisms;
- mineral - 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. dolomite flour and it is possible, but not necessary, 2 tbsp. wood ash per 1 sq. m.
Do I need to close the beds for the winter? It all depends on the climate and winter characteristics in a particular region. Garlic is quite frost-resistant, but severe winters with little snow can significantly thin out the plantings, even despite mulching with peat or humus. Therefore, after the onset of frost, it is better to cover the beds with pine needles, leaves, sawdust, and tops.
Preparing a bed for cucumbers
Cucumbers are plants that are not very demanding on the composition of the soil, but still best harvests collected on sandy and loamy soils with neutral (or close to it) acidity. It is important that the area for this crop is not swampy. Yet, correct processing will help you grow vegetables in any area, the main thing is to do it in advance.
The perfect cucumber bed
Don't know how to prepare a bed for cucumbers in the fall? Follow these tips:
- Determine the location, preferably taking into account the planting shift schedule. Onions, legumes, cabbage, potatoes, and tomatoes are considered good predecessors of cucumbers. Do not plant them where other cucurbits have previously grown.
- Prepare a trench or install sides for high beds. Place branches, straw, sawdust, and leaves on the bottom.
- Apply fertilizers: minerals are added when spring treatment, and fresh manure is applied to the beds in the fall so that it “settles” a little over the winter. Although, experts are divided on when to put manure on the beds. Some advise doing this only in the fall, while others say that you can do it in the spring, adding 100 g of nitrophoska and 3 cups of wood ash for each square meter land.
- Pour water over the manure and cover it with fertile soil approximately 30 - 40 cm.
Cucumbers love manure fertilization
The use of this technology will accelerate plant germination, the appearance of fruits and significantly increase the yield of vegetables. However, if it is not possible to create them, use another technology:
- Dig up the beds in the fall and sow rye.
- In the spring, two weeks before planting cucumbers, distribute humus over the area (3 buckets per 1 sq. m).
- If necessary, add soil disintegrant (not fresh sawdust, sand, etc.).
- Dig up the ground, incorporating green manure and fertilizers into the soil.
Work in the garden requires a lot of effort and time, but it pleases with high-quality environmentally friendly clean products. Proper preparation of the site in the fall, taking into account the individual needs of crops, significantly increases their yield, and helps perennials survive the winter without loss.
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Maria Mukhina 11/15/2014 | 14171
To grow quality harvest carrots, you will need loose, deeply tilled, settled soil. Therefore, the beds need to be prepared in the fall. How to do it right?
Bed sizes
For convenience when caring for plantings, we make the rows up to 1 m wide, and the length is at your discretion. You definitely need a edge around the edge to prevent water from running off when watering. It can be made from any suitable material, including from the ground.
Composition of soil for growing carrots
The soil must be loose - crooked, ugly root crops will grow on hard soil. Loamy or very sandy soil is best. It should contain approximately 4% humus and be water- and breathable. We dig up the rows on the bayonet of a shovel. We carry out the work in the fall, because by the time the seeds are sowed, the soil must have settled thoroughly. We dig up medium-heavy soil with sawdust or pre-dried peat (3 kg per 1 sq.m.).
A good addition for acidic soil would be a glass of fluff lime. Both dolomite flour and ordinary chalk will do. In early spring, sprinkle the ground with ash (0.5 liters per 1 sq.m.), add a specialized mineral complex fertilizer, for example, “Beets, carrots” (40 g of the drug per 1 sq.m.). In areas with low fertility soil or in newly developed areas, the proportions are different: 70 g per 1 sq.m. After applying the fertilizer, we loosen the soil with a Fokin flat cutter. We remember that you cannot dig up the soil before sowing seeds. When preparing soil for growing carrots, do not use fresh manure, use only compost or humus.
Additives for various soil types
- To peat soil (1 sq.m.) add half a bucket of coarse river sand, about 5 kg of compost or well-rotted manure, and a bucket of turf. We apply mineral fertilizers in the following quantities: 1 tbsp. l superphosphate powder, 1 tsp. sodium nitrate or urea.
- Mix a bucket of peat and river sand and 3 to 5 kg of humus into the alumina. We also add mineral fertilizers: 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska and superphosphate, crushed to powder.
- We add the same components to light loam (clay and sand) as to alumina, with the exception of sand.
- Add 2 buckets of turf and peat, half a bucket of humus and a tablespoon of Agricola-4 to the sandy soil.
Place for sowing carrots
Beds for carrots are placed on level ground or with a slight slope sunny areas. When growing crops in shady places, the yield is greatly reduced, and the root crops are short. When groundwater is close, in order to avoid diseases of the root system, the beds are made high (from 35 cm). Carrots grow well where tomatoes, cabbage, and potatoes were previously grown. But it can be sown in its original place only after 4 years.
Carrots are a cold-resistant vegetable and germinate at a temperature of 4-6°C. Therefore, the seeds are sown quite early. The seeds need to be pre-treated: wrap them in cloth and rinse for 20 minutes under running water. hot water(50°C). Using this procedure, they are washed off essential oils, slowing down seed germination. Then you need to immerse the bag in a solution of potassium permanganate (1%) for 25 minutes, then rinse well. Afterwards, soak the seeds in the Ecopin biostimulator for 3 hours (3 drops per 50 ml of water). Once the seeds have dried, they can be sown in the prepared bed.
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Autumn is not only about harvesting, but also a time to think about the future. After all, many crops can be planted now. Pre-winter sowing not only saves time in the spring, but also allows you to get fresh vegetables much earlier than usual. Not all gardeners know that it is possible to plant carrots before winter just as successfully, despite the fact that planting practice vegetable crops late autumn quite common (as is the case with garlic and onions, for example). When growing carrots, you need to remember that this crop is demanding on the composition of the soil. Good harvests carrots can be obtained on light and medium loamy soils, or on cultivated peat lands with a pH = 7.0 (neutral), free from weeds, well drained. Do not add fresh manure to the soil under carrots. Carrots grow well on lands where their predecessors grew last year - cabbage, green and legumes, potatoes, tomatoes. And so in our article we will talk about autumn fertilizers for carrots.
What you can feed carrots and what you can’t
The crop is very sensitive to the organic content in the soil, so you cannot fertilize the beds with fresh manure. Due to the high content of organic substances, the growth point of carrots is “burnt” and it becomes “horned”. In addition, the taste properties of root vegetables deteriorate and they are poorly stored. A high content of nitrogen fertilizers also negatively affects the storage of vegetables. There are no other restrictions: carrots can be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, peat, humus, ash, etc.
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Dates for planting carrots in the fall
Planting carrots in the ground before winter is carried out under certain conditions. The time for planting carrots depends on the climate of the area and the autumn weather. For your efforts to be crowned with success, sow carrots only when stable cold sets in and the average daily temperature remains between 0-2 ºC.
Choosing a carrot variety for autumn planting
In order for the seeds to overwinter well in the soil and actively begin to grow in the spring, you should choose the most cold-resistant varieties of carrots. The following varieties tolerate wintering well: Nantskaya-4, Incomparable, Moskovskaya Zimnyaya, Vitaminnaya-6, Shantane-2461, Losinoostrovskaya-13.
When is it better not to sow carrots?
Some novice gardeners make the mistake of sowing carrots before the cold weather sets in. As a result, the seeds germinate in the fall. Needless to say, these seedlings will not survive the winter? There is a time for everything - wait for the cold weather and sow.
Choosing a place to plant carrots in the fall
- A site for planting carrots in the fall before winter is chosen in a place protected from the winds, without shading, with good heating under the sun.
- The best predecessors of carrots are potatoes (early), cabbage (all types), pumpkins (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins), and onions.
- The bed must be located on level ground, since on slopes it is possible that seeds can be washed out of the ground by autumn rains or spring meltwater.
- The soil reaction for carrots is slightly acidic.
- The soil needs to be loose, light, fertile, seasoned with a large amount of organic fertilizers (loam, sandy loam, sandy or floodplain soils are best suited).
- After the snow melts in early spring The bed is slightly loosened to preserve valuable moisture for a long time.
How to make beds for planting carrots in the fall
It is advisable to provide a bed height of at least 15 cm so that water does not stagnate. If the ground crumbles, it should be fenced off with sides made of boards or other materials. In this case, leave the edges of the sides protruding above the surface of the bed by 2 - 3 cm - in the spring it will be convenient to cover it with film or non-woven material.
The finished bed is leveled with a rake and, while the surface is still wet, furrows are made. They are cut slightly deeper than in spring - up to 4 - 5 cm, taking into account soil precipitation. By the time of sowing, their depth will be just what is needed. After this, the bed is covered with an opaque film and left in this form until sowing.
How to fertilize the soil in the fall for planting carrots
It is recommended to apply organic fertilizers to the soil for growing carrots in the fall. The root vegetable loves old, rotten organic matter. If before this there was a crop growing in the garden bed, richly flavored with humus or compost, then it is not necessary to apply organic fertilizers.
Carrots will thrive on “old yeast.” Peat manure and compost are added at the rate of 6-8 kg per 1 sq.m. Separately, if necessary, deoxidize the soil by adding chalk, dolomite flour or ash. It should be noted that carrots are less sensitive to soil acidity than other root vegetables (for example, beets). Liming is carried out if the pH drops below 5.5 units. On acidic soils, carrots lose their taste and become unsweetened.
You cannot apply fertilizer and lime the soil at the same time. Mineral fertilizers for carrots can be applied before winter, but usually this is done 2-3 weeks before planting. At the same time, prepare the bed. In heavy soils, loosening agents are added, in others only a mixture of nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers. Potassium complexes are added later in the form of liquid root feeding. The bed is dug to a depth of 25-30 cm. After a stable layer of snow falls, it will need to be raked into the area of the carrot beds and covered with spruce branches on top. This will help the crops survive the winter well.
Mistakes when applying fertilizers for carrots in the fall
It is strictly not recommended to fertilize dry soil; this can destroy the plants or cause them to become depressed. Mineral additives can only be added to moist soil in order to quickly dissolve them in the soil. This also applies to fertilizing in the form of a liquid, first water it, then add nutrition. Potassium and phosphorus mineral additives should not be left on the soil surface; they will be useless for the plant in this form. They need to be buried in the ground so that they can be quickly absorbed by the roots. And carrots should be fertilized with these elements only in liquid form.
So, fertilize this useful and delicious vegetable, it is necessary regularly throughout the growing season. This will give a good, juicy and beautiful harvest.
When growing carrots to obtain rich harvests great importance It has preparing a plot for carrots.
When growing carrots, you need to remember that this crop is demanding on the composition of the soil. Good carrot yields can be obtained on light and medium loamy soils, or on cultivated peat lands with pH = 7.0 (neutral), free from weeds, and well drained. Do not add fresh manure to the soil under carrots. Carrots grow well on lands where their predecessors grew last year - green and legume crops, potatoes,
It is better to dig the carrot bed to a depth in the fall bayonet shovel and leave until spring. There is no need to break the lumps. This way it will freeze better and in the spring there will be no such lumps; the frozen moisture will break them into small particles. If you have acidic soil, then before digging, add one glass of dolomite flour, fluff lime or chalk to each square meter of bed.
The bed for planting carrots is prepared 2-3 days before sowing. Depending on the composition and fertility of the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring. For each sq.m of beds at peat soils add 5 kg of coarse river sand, 3-5 kg of manure humus, one bucket of turf soil (clayey or loamy). Mineral fertilizers are also added: one teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea (carbamide), one tablespoon of powdered superphosphate and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. Then, after adding all these components, the bed is dug to a depth of 20-25 cm (because the main varieties of carrots have long roots). The bed is well developed, the surface is leveled and compacted. After which the bed is watered with the following solution: dilute one teaspoon (at the level) of copper sulfate and one glass of mushy mullein in a bucket of warm water, stir well and water at the rate of two liters for each square meter of bed. Then, to avoid moisture evaporation and to preserve heat, the bed is covered with plastic film.
On clay and podzolic soils, for each square meter of bed add 1-2 buckets of peat and coarse sand, one bucket of humus, half a bucket (3-5 kg) of small (processed) sawdust (preferably not fresh, rotted). Mineral fertilizers: add crushed superphosphate - one tablespoon and nitrophoska - two tablespoons. In the spring you need to liming with chalk or dolomite flour, if you didn’t do it in the fall (which is preferable): two to three tablespoons for each square meter. m.
For light loamy soils (they consist of clay and sand), fertilizer is produced in the same way as for clay soils, but sand is not added.
On sandy soils add two buckets of peat, turf soil and one bucket of processed sawdust and humus. Mineral fertilizers are applied the same as for clay soils. If granular fertilizers are used, there is no need to grind them into powder.
On chernozem fertile soils, add half a bucket of small old or fresh processed sawdust and a bucket of sand. Mineral fertilizers: add two tablespoons of superphosphate, crushed into powder.
Humus manure can be replaced with compost, but it should not contain weed seeds.
3-4 days before adding sawdust to the soil, they need to be processed. This is done in this way: 5 buckets of fresh sawdust are poured onto a piece of film laid out on the ground. Bred in a bucket hot water five tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or urea) are poured into a watering can and the sawdust is slowly poured with this solution. The higher the temperature of the solution (40-50°C), the faster the sawdust will be ready for use in the garden bed.
Fresh sawdust, not processed in this way, can be added to the beds only in the fall. If you add fresh sawdust in the spring, the leaves of the carrot seedlings will have a pale color due to a lack of nitrogen (sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil when rotting).
When planting carrots on newly developed lands (virgin lands), when digging, it is necessary to carefully select all rhizomes, especially wheatgrass, as well as wireworm larvae and chafer. On these soils, in the first year of planting, the carrot harvest is usually good even without the addition of additional fertilizers.
Carrots, like all vegetables, are a light-loving crop, so in the shade the root crops grow very short (up to 3-5 cm), and the yield is reduced by two to three times. Excessive moisture in the soil contributes to diseases of carrot roots, so in places where groundwater are close, the beds should be made at least 30-35 cm high.
On poorly cultivated and dense soils, root crops grow in an ugly shape, branch out, and the quality of root crops and yield decrease.
The timing of sowing is decisive for the carrot harvest. Since carrot seeds germinate slowly, they require good soil moisture and should be sown as early as possible, while there is sufficient spring moisture in the ground. If you are late with sowing, the seeds will fall into dry soil and as a result, rare, weak seedlings will sprout, and often the seeds will not germinate at all and you will have to re-sow the bed.
The most optimal time for sowing carrot seeds is: in the central and middle lane: early varieties - from April 20 to 25; mid-season - from April 25 to May 5.
IN southern regions sowing is carried out in two periods: to obtain products in summer time, spring - March 10-20, and for obtaining seeds (uterine roots) and winter consumption, summer sowing - June 10-15.
You can sow carrots before winter, on frozen soil, in November-December. Sowing is done with dry seeds so that they cannot germinate until spring, otherwise the seedlings will freeze. Such carrots, sown in winter, grow much earlier, but they are consumed mainly in the summer, because... not suitable for storage.
By preparing a plot for carrots in this way, you will get a rich harvest.
I wish you excellent, guaranteed in any weather!