Often during construction work there is a need to cut. How to do this, what tool is needed for this? Some " craftsmen“they manage not to even saw, but to chop blocks with an axe, but this approach has several disadvantages:
- It’s not always possible to cut a block accurately,
- the block may be too thick,
- it's not entirely safe.
Also, you should not even try to use a chainsaw: the chain will not hold up, and there is a lot of dust, which can completely damage the tool.
Hand saw
The first tool you can use is hand saw with a fat one metal sheet and carbide tipped on the teeth. It is intended for sawing aerated concrete, but if the amount of work is small, you can try to cope with it with its help. A serious disadvantage of this approach is that you will have to cut by hand. This means that a person working with a hacksaw will quickly get tired and will not be able to cut many blocks. You cannot cut our blocks with a hacksaw for foam concrete...
Bulgarian
The next option is an angle grinder (grinder) with a metal segmented wheel with diamond coating on the cutting surface. If you take a non-segmented wheel, there is a high chance that it will become very hot and become deformed, as a result of which it may even break into several pieces during sawing.
The main disadvantage of this method is that the depth of cut is limited by the radius of the disk. You can make cuts around the perimeter, and then the block will have to be split. However, this is not a very difficult task; it can be dealt with using an ax (it is inserted into the cut, and then the butt is struck with a hammer) or wooden block(you need to lift the block and forcefully lower it onto the block along the cutting line).
Alligator saw
On sale you can find an Alligator electric saw, designed specifically for cutting bricks. Such models are produced by both large foreign brands (DeWalt, Bosh, etc.) and domestic companies. "Alligator" is quite capable of coping with a large number of expanded clay concrete blocks, provides high accuracy Sawing is completely safe. It is quite easy to use, and therefore not only professionals, but also people with little experience can work with Alligator.
When it comes to installing windows in a house made of cellular blocks, two different approaches to fastening technology collide.
Proponents of polyurethane foam claim that this material is so reliable and airtight that it does not require the use of fittings. Fans of dowels, on the contrary, rely on mechanical contact between metal and blocks.
The truth, as often happens, lies in the middle of polar opinions.
Therefore, we decided to take a closer look at the features quality installation windows in aerated concrete and foam concrete walls.
When is it better to install plastic windows?
There is no consensus on this issue. Beginner developers ask when they can install windows in a house made of aerated concrete or foam block. They are given advice that is more ridiculous than the other. Some argue that cellular blocks have a very large shrinkage and windows can only be installed a year after the construction of the box.
Others try to provide a “scientific” basis for this statement and argue from three types of shrinkage of gas silicate and foam block. At the same time, all advisors unanimously ignore the manufacturers’ data. They clearly state that the natural shrinkage of cellular blocks does not exceed 0.3 mm per 1 meter of wall height. Therefore, there is no need to talk about its critical impact on window frames. Confusion arises due to the substitution of the concepts of shrinkage of lightweight concrete and building settlement.
Deformation settlement of a structure (walls and foundation) does not occur due to the evaporation of moisture from concrete and blocks. It is caused by uneven subsidence and rise of soil under the influence of freezing and thawing water in it. This is the kind of shrinkage that needs to be protected from. bearing structures. For the foundation, frames made of reinforcement are used, and for walls made of aerated concrete and foam blocks, which are poured at the level interfloor ceilings. If these measures are not taken, then cracks in the walls and foundation during construction on weak and water-saturated soils are guaranteed.
Which practical implications can be concluded from our theoretical reasoning?
Very simple: you can install windows in a house made of gas or foam concrete blocks 2-3 months after the completion of wall laying. This period is enough for the foundation to gain the necessary strength.
Some may object, saying that the house must stand for at least 1 year before the installation of windows and finishing begins, in order for the soil stabilization processes to be completed. Our answer to this is that the process of soil movement is continuous. Therefore, you need to rely not on the complete settlement of the building, but on the quality of construction - a solid foundation and load-bearing walls.
The nuances of high-quality installation of windows in aerated concrete and foam blocks
Let's tell you right away what to insert plastic window It’s not difficult to put into a foam block. It is much more difficult to ensure the tightness and durability of the joints between the wall and the plastic frame.
To do this, three conditions must be met:
- Seam tightness.
- Protection of the contact area from heat loss.
- Mechanical strength of the window-wall contact.
The tightness of the seams can be partially ensured by quarters - protrusions that are cut into blocks. In addition, it is necessary to use sealing materials - frost-resistant sealants or self-expanding tape (PSUL). The contact area between the frame and the wall is insulated traditional way– polyurethane-based foam. Behind mechanical strength fastenings correspond to dowels or mounting plates.
Commit window frame in the opening in two ways:
- After removing the glazing, drill a hole in the plastic profile for a long dowel-nail, use it to attach the frame to the wall and put the glass unit in place.
- Without removing the glazing, fix the anchor plates with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter of the frame. After this, you need to install the window in the mounting position and secure it to the wall with dowel nails through the holes in the plates.
Installing plastic windows in a house made of aerated concrete using the first method has its disadvantages: dismantling and installing double-glazed windows is labor-intensive, and the position of the frame in the opening after it is fixed cannot be changed. The second installation method is more convenient, since if necessary, the position of the window before blowing in the foam can be changed and only after that can it be finally fastened.
Standard installation of windows in aerated concrete begins with the installation of spacers made of plastic or wood under the frame. They are necessary to create a gap into which insulating foam will be blown.
The mounting plates must be secured to the frame before this operation. For this, self-tapping screws with a length of 19 mm and a diameter of 4.8 mm are used.
The window installation depth can be from 8 to 12 cm (from the edge of the frame to the edge of the opening) and depends on the thickness of the wall (20 or 30 cm). If the outer part of the masonry will be insulated, then the window can be placed closer to the outer edge of the opening by the thickness of the insulation.
These indentations are not chosen for aesthetic reasons. appearance windows, but because of the need to protect the frames from moisture condensation and freezing (the dew point should be outside the frame).
Having adjusted the position of the glass unit using a level, holes are drilled in the blocks for dowels (with a hammerless drill). The outermost hole of the plate should deviate from the edge of the block by at least 5 cm so as not to split it. First, the plate is fixed with one dowel (diameter 6 mm, length 80-100 mm). After final alignment, screw in the second one.
After making sure that the window sashes open and close easily, proceed to foaming the joint along the entire perimeter of the frame. For this work, it is better to take frost-resistant foam with a low expansion coefficient. This will increase the durability of the insulation and reduce pressure on the frame. To improve the quality of adhesion of the foam to the block and window, before blowing it in, the entire seam must be treated with water from a sprayer.
After the foam hardens, its excess that protrudes outwards is cut off. The adjusting wedges are removed and the resulting voids are foamed. Having completed these operations, the external joint of the frame with the block is sealed with an expanding tape (PSUL) or protected with frost-resistant breathable putty. Another common option is to install waterproofing tape around the perimeter of the opening using adhesive-sealant.
Sealing with sealing tape
The internal joint is treated with putty, carefully leveling it over the entire contact area with the insulation.
The installation of the ebb and window sill completes the installation. Important nuance This work involves the correct placement of holes in the plastic profile through which condensation from the window escapes to the outside. They should be higher than the tide to prevent moisture from getting onto the blocks.
In conclusion, I would like to say about the quarters, which protect the joints of plastic windows from blowing and freezing. Any cellular concrete It cuts well, so during the laying process you can make quarters of the desired size in it in advance.
Another option is to install quarters made of dense (extruded) foam. It insulates the slopes and frame well, but is quite difficult to finish, since it requires the installation of a mesh and high-quality putty. The foam is attached with glue and additionally fixed to the blocks with plastic dowels with wide caps.
If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will not take more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.
Window system components
Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems This insert is made of plastic; metal is used in metal-plastic ones.
The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers
In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.
Components of a plastic window
The main element of a window unit is the frame The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:
- frame – the main structural part;
- if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
- the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
- double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
- In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
- fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
- in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
- Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by differences temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
- another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
- parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.
Is it possible to install the window yourself?
There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, or vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:
- dismantling the old window unit;
- installation of a new window.
Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.
If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from the manufacturer, who for a long time works in the market, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter period, you can always count on a significant discount.
When a window is purchased from a company that carries out installation work, then the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. At self-installation You can obtain a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.
In order for the windows to be installed in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.
Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements
When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.
Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure. Before you start measuring, don't miss important point– what type of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.
Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.
In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which components your design will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).
If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same, you need to choose the most small size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.
Features of measurements for glazing balconies
To determine the width glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for installation corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.
How to correctly measure windows in a country house
To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.
Preparing to install a window structure
After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.
The base will need to be cleaned before installation. Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.
Installation Technology Guide
The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and aligned horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.
Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame, through which they are driven into the wall. anchor bolts. This method is more complex and more reliable.
When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in. 
Places for attaching anchors and support blocks If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.
Mounting on anchor plates 
There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.
It is very important to choose the correct installation depth The installation sequence must be followed:
- Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
- then attach it to the wall;
- after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
- then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
- after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .
However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and external environment the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.
To be fulfilled correct installation both on windows and, follow simple rules:
- we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
- the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
- the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.
According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.
Mistakes you can make when installing windows
There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:
- you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
- you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
- It is imperative to protect the polyurethane foam from direct contact sun rays to avoid its destruction;
- the choice of fixation would be wrong frame structure only polyurethane foam: It is imperative to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.
By following all installation rules, you can successfully install window design yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.
Walls built from expanded clay concrete blocks have good strength characteristics comparable to brick ones. The adhesive properties of this material with other cement-based materials are also good, which is why there are no fundamental differences from brickwork few. It is permissible to build a small one-story room from expanded clay blocks yourself, without a preliminary design. However, you need to know some features, follow the manual and follow the entire construction technology step by step.
Before starting construction, it is necessary to prepare the following tools: tape measure, level, plumb line, rubber mallet, a trowel for applying the solution, a cord for marking, a square, a power tool for cutting blocks and grooves for reinforcement.
Where to start laying blocks is by preparing the foundation on which it is supposed to be built. The surface of the foundation must be as flat as possible so that the difference in height between the corners of the building does not exceed 3 cm. To do this, arrange a leveling layer of cement composition. After this, you need to lay out waterproofing that separates the foundation from the masonry walls so that there is no capillary suction of water from the foundation.
Laying the first row
Laying of expanded clay concrete blocks can be carried out either with special glue or with regular DSP. However, if you plan to use additional insulation of the facade, there is no need for adhesives with reduced thermal conductivity. The thickness of the seams should be on average 12 mm.
Note: during construction in winter time years, frost-resistant additives should be added to the solution according to the instructions.
The laying of the first row begins from the corner of the foundation, and from the highest. This is determined by the leveling method. But when building walls with your own hands, you can limit yourself to the building level. The first expanded clay block must be placed on a minimum layer of composition; it should be leveled as much as possible in the plane according to the plan, as well as vertically and horizontally, using a level. Then the corner blocks are left for a while to allow the solution to set. This way the laid element becomes a kind of beacon to which the entire row is led.
Laying the second and subsequent rows
Step-by-step instructions for laying expanded clay blocks:
1. Mark the area according to the layout, mark the locations of window and door openings.
2. Install a vertical strip with markings along the height of the rows at the corners of the walls. It is possible to do without it; often they simply use a “mason’s corner”. Pull the mooring cord under the laying of the new row.
3. Transfer the required number of blocks and ready-made solution for one row directly into work area. Provide easy access to auxiliary tools.
4. Apply a layer of glue and lay the brick on it.
Note: when laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands for the first time, it is better to start by spreading the composition under only one block; later, as you develop dexterity, you can lay 3–4 blocks at a time.
5. Level using a level and light tapping suitable tool(you can use a trowel to distribute the adhesive mixture).
6. Lay the next brick.
Laying schemes, bandaging and joining
Laying expanded clay concrete walls begins at the corners, the blocks are carefully leveled, and the mortar is given time to set. Then a cord is tied to the corners and the entire row is laid out along it. The last element is usually non-standard and needs to be sawn to size.
Note: the height of self-supporting walls should not exceed 3.5 m, and the free length should not exceed 8 m.
The walls may be different designs, the most common are:
- In one row (half a block thick), these are obtained when laying expanded clay concrete blocks in the longitudinal direction. Here the classic ligation of spoon rows takes place with a displacement of at least 0.4 from the height of the block (100 mm).
- In two rows (one block thick), dressing here is carried out by shifting the spoon rows relative to each other by at least 100 mm both in the longitudinal direction of the wall and in the transverse direction. In this case, it is necessary to do a tie dressing every 2 rows - this is when expanded clay blocks are located across the wall, across its entire thickness.
Pairing interior walls with external ones, it can be done by tying the masonry or by anchoring blocks, mortgages or reinforcing elements in increments of 600 mm (the permissible minimum is two tyings per floor height). All steel products used for dressing must be resistant to corrosion (from of stainless steel or with a special coating).
Reinforcement and lintels
In order to smooth out subsidence and shrinkage deformations of the masonry, as well as reduce the risk of cracking, girdle reinforcement is installed for every third row. For this purpose, when carrying out work on their own, steel rods of periodic profile with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm are more often used. For them, you need to make a groove of such a depth (up to 25 mm) that the rods are completely immersed there, without sticking out anywhere. The reinforcement should not be interrupted at the corners of the structure; it would be correct to bend it with a certain radius. Next, you should lay the solution in the groove, “drown” the rod in it and cover it on top.
Reinforcement is required in the following support rows:
1. Under door and window openings. In these places it is necessary to place two rows of reinforcement 500 - 900 mm longer than the width of the opening on each side.
2. Under the ceiling. Here, around the perimeter of the walls, encircling double-row reinforcement or frame reinforcement is installed, laid in U-shaped blocks.
If the masonry is carried out independently, without a preliminary design and calculations, then, giving in to the desire to “work better and stronger,” you can make girdle reinforcement every 3 rows, this will increase the crack resistance of the structure as a whole.
Above the windows and doorways jumpers can be organized as follows:
- Using U-shaped products. To do this, a support formwork is constructed, trays are laid out on it with an overflow of at least 250 mm onto the wall. A reinforcement cage is placed in them, and everything is filled with concrete, which is compacted by bayonet, then the surface must be leveled.
- Using ready-made . They are laid on a layer of mortar with an overflow of 100 mm for non-load-bearing structures and at least 250 mm for load-bearing structures.
- You can also use steel rolled profile(corners, square pipes) as a permanent support formwork. You can simply lay expanded clay blocks on top with a regular dressing.
The floor should be supported on a support row with encircling reinforcement, which will evenly redistribute the load along the entire perimeter. If used reinforced concrete slab or beams, it is recommended to anchor the floor to the walls using bent reinforcement rods (for example, Ø8 A240). One side of the bent rod is hooked to the mounting loop of the ceiling, and the other is placed along the expanded clay blocks. It is also advisable to additionally protect the ends of floor slabs in external walls with a layer of insulation.
In cases where you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists. The cost of masonry per cube in the regions of Russia varies from 900 to 1600 rubles, the highest prices are in Moscow. Also, the cost depends on the types of work included in the estimate; for example, loading is sometimes considered separately.
There is probably not a single family that does not dream of a cozy, warm home. Often dreams are shattered by the realities of life related to the material side of the issue. In such cases, you should pay attention to a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks. In the construction market, products from this lightweight concrete has not lost popularity for several decades due to its favorable price-quality ratio. Let's take a closer look at the characteristics of the building material and the technology of working with it. Let's figure out how to build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks so that it warms not only us, but also our children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren.
House made of expanded clay concrete blocks
Expanded clay concrete - characteristics, advantages, disadvantages
Products made from lightweight concrete, the main filler of which is baked clay pellets, are in high demand in the construction of small private houses, as well as in construction country houses and auxiliary buildings. Expanded clay is a lightweight, environmentally friendly, porous and, at the same time, very durable material.
When binding pellets cement mortar, receive products that have many positive aspects:
Advantages that do not affect the quality of work, but improve mood when purchasing materials and during construction activities include:
- low cost of production. The use of readily available components in manufacturing allows us to maintain a price range accessible to most developers;
- ease of masonry. Small dimensions and weight individual elements allow installation to be carried out at an accelerated pace;
- increased surface roughness, which improves adhesion to finishing compounds and facilitates cladding work.
Having studied the advantages, we can quickly conclude that a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is ideal. Reviews from owners largely confirm this opinion.
But when choosing a building material, you should not turn a blind eye to the disadvantages, which include:
Studying the advantages and disadvantages will help you properly prepare for construction activities.
Calculator for expanded clay concrete blocks for home
To one of preparatory stages construction refers to the design stage. After development and approval of the project, it is necessary to calculate the need for materials. You can determine the required amount of building material yourself. Let's take for example cottage made of expanded clay concrete blocks with dimensions of 10x20 m and a ceiling height of 3 m.
Calculation can be done using two methods:
- by area;
- by volume.
When calculating the required number of elements according to the first option, we proceed according to the following algorithm:
- We define total area walls In our case – (10+10+20+20) x3=180 m².
- We calculate the number of units of production per 1 m². For an element with dimensions 400x200x200 mm this is 12.5 pieces (1/0.4x0.2=12.5).
- We multiply the total area of the walls and the quantity by 1 m² - we get the required number of units of production - 180x12.5 = 2250 pieces.
How many expanded clay blocks are needed to build a house? The second calculation option is similar to the first, only when carrying out calculations they operate not with area indicators, but with the values of masonry volumes and one unit of production.
It is worth emphasizing that window and door openings are not taken into account in the calculation process. This was done deliberately to account for the loss of building materials during the work.
We build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks
Having understood the characteristics, advantages and disadvantages of products, having studied methods for calculating the need for building materials and having made their purchase, you can begin construction work. To build a strong and durable house from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, adhere to proven technologies.
The general construction algorithm includes:
- foundation construction;
- walling;
- roof arrangement;
- waterproofing, insulation, cladding.
Let's take a closer look at each point.
Foundation for a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks
When choosing the type of foundation, you first need to focus on the structure and composition of the soil, as well as the groundwater level.
Foundation for a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks Of the variety of foundations for structures made of lightweight concrete, only three types are suitable:
- tape;
- pile;
- slab
By analyzing the soil at the construction site, you can determine which foundation will be preferable. A slab foundation is justified on unstable soils prone to movement. Due to its large area and increased strength, it is able to compensate for bending loads and prevent cracking of the material during soil shifts. But there is a nuance that you need to know about - slab base labor-intensive to set up.
A pile foundation has many advantages when erected on soils prone to frost heaving. It is also indispensable in cases where it is necessary to build a building on a site with a slope. But pile foundation unevenly distributes loads arising from soil shifts. Therefore, when choosing a screw structure for a house made of lightweight concrete, carefully weigh the pros and cons.
Optimal, with low occurrence groundwater, is a strip foundation.
It has a number of advantages over other types of bases:
- distributes loads evenly, which prevents cracks;
- allows you to fill it yourself, since the work process does not require large-sized equipment;
- allows for the arrangement of a full basement.
How to pour a strip foundation Pouring work strip foundation follow the following algorithm:
- Plan the site surface. Uproot trees and bushes. Remove small vegetation by hand or using chemicals.
- Mark the base using pegs and rope.
- Dig a trench to a depth greater than the freezing level of the soil. Level the walls and bottom of the trench.
- Prepare and install the formwork. For formwork, you can use scrap boards or use plywood panels.
- Fill the trench with crushed stone and sand mixture. Perform tamping.
- Assemble the reinforcing frame. The connection of metal rods can be done using welding or binding wire.
- Prepare concrete mortar according to the recipe. Use a concrete solution of at least grade M400 for work.
- Pour the prepared composition into the trench. Tamp the solution thoroughly to remove any air bubbles.
- Level the surface. Cover with plastic to retain moisture.
- After completing the hardening process, remove the formwork.
- Waterproof the foundation.
After the base has gained strength, begin building the box.
When laying expanded clay concrete blocks, professionals advise using adhesives Wall construction work two-story house from expanded clay concrete blocks in the same way as country house from expanded clay concrete blocks, follow the general algorithm:
- Place the first row. Start laying from the corner area.
- Check horizontality using a level.
- Lay the next row, shifting the elements relative to the lower level by a third or half of the thickness.
- Reinforce the masonry every 3-4 rows. Use metal rods or reinforcing mesh for this.
- Strengthen door and window openings.
- Concreting the reinforced belt at the upper level to install the roof structure.
Upon completion of work, proceed with the installation of the roof.
Roof arrangement
The roof, like the foundation, is the key to the durability of the building. Before you start installing the roof, think over the design, choose suitable material ceilings Save when choosing roofing material not worth it.
It is important that he be:
- durable;
- durable;
- resistant to natural factors;
- environmentally friendly.
Arrangement of the roof of the house To install the roof, prepare the following materials:
- wooden beam 150x150 mm for the Mauerlat;
- edged board for sheathing;
- roofing material;
- hardware for fastening structural elements.
Guided by the documentation, assemble the frame and secure the roofing material.
Insulation of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks
Buildings made of expanded clay concrete need insulation. Developers often have a question about how to insulate a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks. To maintain a comfortable microclimate, it is advisable to install thermal insulation both inside and outside. Such A complex approach to insulation will reduce the cost of maintaining a favorable temperature.
How to insulate a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside
For external insulation It is important to choose the optimal thermal insulator.
Insulation of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks The most common insulation materials include:
- Styrofoam. It is characterized by low price, ease of installation, ease of finishing. Disadvantages - flammability and damage by rodents;
- mineral wool. Is different affordable price, elevated thermal insulation properties. When laying it outside the building prerequisite is the use of waterproofing;
- facing panels. They are distinguished by high prices and increased level installation costs. The installation technology ensures effective thermal insulation.
Any of the proposed options has the right to life. The choice depends on financial capabilities.
Estimated construction cost
The estimated cost of construction can be obtained by summing up the following cost items:
- development and approval of project documentation;
- purchase of materials for the construction of the foundation, walls, roof, finishing;
- transportation costs for delivery of building materials to the work site;
- expenses for the services of hired workers.
Using current prices, you can get an approximate cost and plan the amount of upcoming costs.