Platbands play a decorative role, giving the doorway a finished look. The planks differ in the material of manufacture, shape, color, as well as the method of fastening. Installation of interior door frames is carried out after finishing the walls, but before laying the floor plinth.
To correctly install platbands on interior doors, you first need to select the appropriate elements. First of all, pay attention to the material of manufacture:
- Products made from natural wood are considered universal. The strips can be painted to match the color of the doors. Fasten wooden elements nails without heads. If the walls are well aligned with the door frame, the platbands are placed on an adhesive composition - “liquid nails”.
- Laminated planks of MDF appearance resemble natural wood. Decorative elements match the color of the door. The platbands are secured with adhesive or nails without heads, having previously drilled blind holes.
- PVC cashing is more suitable plastic doors. The planks are glued or mounted on the mounting profile.
- There are also aluminum and steel cash registers, but they are usually installed on entrance doors.
Most planks are given a standard flat, rounded or shaped form.
By fastening method Cashing can be invoice or telescopic. The first type of elements is fixed directly to door frame. The second one is equipped with mounting grooves.
Tools for work
To ensure that the installation of door trims is successful, the tools must be prepared in advance.
- To perform accurate markings you will need pencil, tape measure, plumb line, square and level.
- It will help to cut the workpiece perfectly straight at an angle of 45 degrees. miter box O.
- It's better to cut the slats miter saw. If it is missing, you can use hacksaw for metal. The fine teeth of the blade will not leave chips on the product.
- Used for driving nails or tapping cash elements. hammer.
How to cut off the platband?
After marking the angle of the cut and the length of the workpiece, the trim is cut with a miter saw. A special feature of the power tool is the adjustable table, which is installed at the desired angle. In order to saw off the door frames correctly and without chipping, the side edges of the workpiece are pressed tightly against the stops on the frame. If a gap occurs, the cut will be uneven.
If you don’t have a power saw, a miter box will help you cut the edge of the casing at 45 degrees. It is better to buy a quality tool. The cheap one made of plastic has deformed thrust elements that distort the size of the angle. A hacksaw for cutting is used with fine teeth that do not leave chips.
How to attach platbands to interior doors?
Simple fastening of flat platbands is performed at an angle of 90 degrees. The vertical planks fit tightly at the top with the horizontal one. When installing wooden or MDF elements complex shape The ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. There are 4 methods of fixing the planks.
Using finishing nails
Wooden or MDF door casing is easier to nail with nails with flat heads. The fastening is reliable, and if necessary, the planks can be easily dismantled. You can use nails of a different configuration, and so that the heads are not visible, they are removed with side cutters. The length of finishing nails for platbands is about 40 mm. The size can be calculated individually, taking into account the thickness of the cash. Having passed through the bar, the nail must enter at least 20 mm into the body of the door frame.
Attachment points are marked on the workpieces, maintaining the same distance. Typically, a pitch of 500 mm is maintained. Using the markings, drill through holes with a diameter corresponding to the thickness of the nail. After joining to the door frame, the platbands are carefully nailed. For aesthetics, hats are painted over with a wax pencil.
Liquid nails
To attach cash to interior doors without nails, use an adhesive composition - liquid nails. The advantage of this method is that there is no visible fixation site. The downside is the weak fastening, as well as inconvenience during dismantling. In addition, liquid nails are only applicable if the adjacent walls are perfectly level.
The door frames are installed after sawing and fitting of the blanks. The plank is lubricated on the back side with adhesive and pressed tightly against the wall. To glue platbands for interior doors, it is enough to hold each strip pressed for no more than a minute.
Fastening with self-tapping screws
The method is similar to fastening with finishing nails, only instead of them, wood screws 25 mm long and 6 mm thick are used. Places for holes are marked on the workpiece in increments of 500 mm. A drill of the same diameter or with a margin of 1 mm is used.
It is advisable to recess the hats into the body of the plank. From the front side of the workpiece, the hole is expanded with a drill larger diameter to a depth of 1–1.5 mm. Now all that remains is to attach the trim to the interior doors with self-tapping screws. You need to tighten the hardware so that the head fits into the recess. The place of fixation is painted over with a wax pencil.
Attachment by beaks
The method does not require the use of screws, nails or adhesive. The cash box is equipped with a beak-shaped lock. The connecting pin is inserted into the recess on the box and pressed until it clicks.
The advantage of this method is ease of installation and invisibility of the mounting location. A negative point is the delamination of MDF trims during dismantling. Over time, spontaneous destruction of the joints may occur, which requires additional treatment of the joints with glue.
How to install platbands on interior doors?
When installing interior doors with your own hands, glue, nails or self-tapping screws are used to fasten trim made of wood or MDF. However, the evenness of the walls and the shape of the planks are taken into account. There should be no gaps at the joints. If the walls adjacent to the end of the door frame are uneven, then it is better to refuse gluing.
Installation of cashing begins from the side where the interior door opens. This is due to the presence of hinges that prevent the strip from being fixed flush with the box element. You will need to make the same indentation, and on all three sides for symmetry. Where there are no loops, there is no need for mandatory indentation.
If the door is in a corner, installation is carried out using the letter G. If desired, you can saw the element vertically and use a narrow strip.
The platband on one side is installed when the slopes on the other are decorated with tiles or other wall materials.
Docking at an angle of 45
When it is necessary to install trim on the door at an angle of 45 degrees, use a miter box for marking. This joining of elements is usually used for shaped and rounded planks. If there is no miter box, the markings can be made with a protractor.
The installation procedure consists of the following steps:
Docking at an angle of 90
The platbands are fastened at 90 degrees with horizontal or vertical seams. The choice depends on the preference of the owner. When installing a door cashing with your own hands at a right angle, only flat-shaped blanks are used. The cut areas are treated with varnish or acrylic-based paint.
To install platbands on interior doors with imitation lintels, the upper element is extended. The joining is obtained at an angle of 90 degrees with horizontal seams. The top bar extends beyond the vertical.
Telescopic trims
Telescopic trims are attached to interior doors without nails. Decorative elements are equipped with a special lock consisting of a slot and groove. Fixation occurs at the end of the box. The main requirement correct installation platbands is the presence of a protrusion. It forms when the door frame is already thick interior partition. The adjacent walls must be level, otherwise you will get an unsightly gap.
Installation instructions for plastic trims
Glue is used very rarely, the connection is unreliable. Mostly plastic trims they are placed on interior doors using a profile. This installation method consists of the following steps:
If you place plastic cash on a wall lined with clapboard, then along the perimeter doorway fix wooden slats, and the profile is already attached to it.
Installation is possible using special nipples and screws.
Elimination of defects
An unpleasant moment is the visibility of the nail head or screw. They are slightly recessed into the body of the cash, and sealed on top with sealant. desired color. You can use a wax corrector.
On uneven walls Due to the curvature of the wooden planks, the joints diverge. During installation, the joining elements are additionally connected with a finishing nail.
Wide strips from 100 to 120 mm help to hide large defects around the door frame.
How to join the plinth with the platband?
There is no need to cut the door trim; it should reach the floor. Otherwise it won't look very nice.
The plinth itself is adjusted, the method depends on the material.
- The plastic ones have decorative plugs, with the help of which you can neatly and beautifully join the end of the plinth and the door casing.
- A cut is made on the wooden one at 45 degrees to align the adjacent side of the plinth with the thickness of the door casing.
Dismantling
Removal of platbands is usually required when cash is replaced. There is no need to worry about their safety, but the work is done carefully. Taking an ax with a sharp blade and a hammer in their hands, they begin to dismantle:
The procedure must be carried out carefully so that no dents are left on the door frame. Instead of an ax, homemade sharpened strips of durable metal or other similar devices.
This tool is a profile in the form of an inverted letter P. There are slots on the sides for sawing at an angle of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex corner templates or miter boxes have devices for setting different cutting angles.
For an inexperienced master the best option would be to purchase a ready-made miter box at a hardware store. At home, it can be made from three planed boards or plywood.
The tool can be assembled by fastening pre-prepared parts together. The corner template box must be secured using wood glue or screws. The side walls of the miter box must be strictly parallel to one another. The horizontal beam should create a strict perpendicular to the side beams.
Step 3: we mark slots at different angles to cut laminate, trim, etc.
The application of the slots will affect the accuracy of the work performed in the future. Therefore, this process must be approached with special care. It is advisable to make cuts using the same hacksaw that will be used to perform the work.
Step 4: preparing the material to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees
It is necessary to secure the finished corner template on the desktop using a clamp. Next, markings for the future cut should be applied to the workpiece. Next, you need to align the workpiece with the 45-degree slot inside the miter box and press firmly.
The hacksaw must be inserted into the corresponding grooves of the corner template and cut the workpiece. The grooves will limit the movements of the saw and the cut will be carried out in the desired direction.
Subtleties of working with a miter box and various materials
When sawing elements such as baseboards, it is not always necessary to make a 90-degree cut. After all, the walls in the room may be uneven. Before sawing the baseboard, it is necessary to adjust the angle of the cut.
Thus, the article described and characterized the sawing process wooden materials using a miter box.
Often during repairs you may encounter a situation where it is necessary to saw off a piece from a part at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Typically, this is needed to connect two parts at a right angle, 90 degrees, such as: door trim, baseboards, pieces of furniture and much more. Experienced master, professionally engaged repair work, can often do without special devices, and is able to cut evenly and accurately almost by eye required part. But if you are a novice repairman, and you have a desire to do the job as efficiently as possible, without damaging expensive parts, then you simply need to purchase - special device, which allows you to saw off material at a given angle without any special tricks.
To work, you need to have: a miter box, a hacksaw, a protractor with a pencil, a piece of wood, a screwdriver with screws or a clamp.
Using a ready-made miter box
The most common miter box is a U-shaped profile with slits on the sides, allowing you to use a hacksaw to make cuts at angles of 45, 60 and 90 degrees, respectively. It is enough to use it once and you will no longer have the question of how to cut at an angle of 45 degrees. There are miter boxes and more complex ones that allow you to independently set the angle necessary for cutting, as well as with the help rotating design, install hacksaw blade into the best position. The best option for a novice repairman would be to purchase finished tool at any hardware store. The miter box can be made of wood, plastic or metal. But you can make it yourself from scrap material, any boards or plywood, about 20 millimeters thick.
Making your own miter box
- 1. First you need to assemble the box of the future tool. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes in its side walls for future fastening with screws and, having smeared the ends of the parts with glue, connect them in such a way that both walls are strictly perpendicular to the bottom and parallel to each other, after which we fix them with screws.
- 2. Using a protractor, mark a 45-degree angle with a pencil; if necessary, add additional lines for the grooves. The most important part is the cuts; they are best done with the same hacksaw blade that you will use to cut the products. It is necessary to saw while holding the blade, avoiding strong pressure on the tool; first saw through one side, then the other.
- 3. Let's start processing the material. Use a clamp or screws to secure the miter box to the work surface. At the site of the future cut, we make a mark on the plinth or board. How to cut at an angle of 45 degrees becomes clear if you press it firmly against the side wall and align the mark with the slot on the template. We insert the hacksaw into the groove and cut the workpiece, while the work of the blade is limited to cuts, which allows you to make the cut as evenly and accurately as possible.
- 4. Before sawing the baseboard, you need to make sure that the corner of the room is really straight and, if this is not the case, you need to adjust the cutting angle of the workpiece. To do this, measure internal corner the junction of the walls, and divide the result by two. If you do not have a professional rotary miter box capable of changing the cutting angle to the required value, then to achieve the result you need to cut additional grooves at the desired angle in a homemade miter box. This way you can cut the baseboard for the most accurate alignment.
Now you know how to cut a workpiece at an angle of 45 degrees. Perhaps it's time to move from theory to practical action... Stay tuned!
There are now more than enough tips on how to cut a baseboard at 45 degrees on the Internet, the only bad thing is that most of them are given by people who have never done this. Next, from a practical point of view, I will tell you how to cut skirting boards at the corners with your own hands in 3 options, and you will learn about both traditional methods and folk universal recipes.
The science of how to properly trim ceiling moldings in corners is not as complicated as it may seem.
A few words about tools and materials
Floor skirting boards are now made of wood or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), in other words, plastic. For ceiling fillets, the list is a little longer:
The range of ceiling plinths is much wider than that of the floor type.
- Polyurethane - these skirting boards have good elasticity and can bend around radial and other curved surfaces, but in any case they need to be trimmed to precise angles;
- Foam plastic is the simplest budget option, the price of foam skirting boards is low and they are very easy to cut;
- PVC - the principle is the same as that of floor skirting boards, but the model range is much wider;
- Wooden - similar to floor ones, only here there are also wide models;
- Gypsum - with the advent of polyurethane and foam plastic, gypsum ceiling fillets faded into the background, firstly, they are heavy, and secondly, fragile. But to be fair, they are worth mentioning.
So how to trim correctly ceiling plinth and its floor-standing counterpart is impossible without a good tool, let’s dwell on this issue in a little more detail.
The best, almost ideal tool for trimming any skirting boards and more is a miter saw with a rotating bed. The high-speed disc makes smooth and precise cuts, and the bed in these units rotates to any angle. The only problem is the serious cost of this tool.
A miter saw is an almost ideal tool for cutting baseboards and more.
It is believed that one of the best hand tools for precision cutting of small blocks is a back saw. In principle, this is true, but I’ll tell you honestly, it’s not easy to find a really high-quality saw, even with the current assortment. If you decide to buy such a tool, then take a saw with a fine tooth.
Theoretically, foam and polyurethane can be cut with any sharp and durable knife. But at the same time you need to have a steady hand and at least a little experience in cutting foam. Plus, cutting wide fillets with a knife is very problematic.
Without experience, making a clear cut with a knife is very problematic.
Personally, if I don’t have a crosscut tool, I only use a hacksaw. It is suitable for cutting absolutely any material, from foam to wood. By the way, people often ask the question of how to cut a plastic baseboard for the floor, so take a hacksaw for metal and you definitely can’t go wrong.
For cutting skirting boards, a hacksaw is considered one of the best tools.
Three working methods for trimming skirting boards
For floor and ceiling skirting boards, the cutting instructions are almost the same. But if on the floor a crooked corner can be covered with something, then on the ceiling this is already a problem, so we will pay more attention to how to cut the ceiling plinths.
Method number 1. Classic miter box
The classic miter box is a U-shaped box with slots in the opposite sides. A piece of suitable size is inserted into this stock and sawed off with a hacksaw through the slots in the sides. The idea is not new, the tool is already several hundred years old, but despite its simplicity, not everyone knows how to correctly cut the corner of a ceiling plinth using such a miter box.
Not everyone knows how to cut a ceiling plinth in a corner using a classic miter box.
Tip: when trimming, ceiling plinths are applied to the side of the miter box that is closest to you, and floor plinths, on the contrary, should be applied to the side of the tool farthest from you. This is not a dogma, but it is much easier to work this way.
It is easier to work with floor plinths, since the miter box lies on a horizontal plane, it is easier for you to orient yourself in the position of the plinth. People most often make mistakes when cutting ceiling fillets; they simply insert them into the tool incorrectly. There is a simple but important rule here.
Important: the side of the ceiling fillet that touches the wall should be directed to the upper edge of the side of the miter box, and that part of the plinth that borders the ceiling should be placed on the bottom of the miter box.
As you know, a corner has 2 sides, so in order to make fewer mistakes, train yourself to place the bar that will be mounted on the right side of the corner in the miter box on the right, and the bar that is attached to the left in the miter box on the left. The intricacies of using a classic miter box are described in detail in the video in this article.
In addition to the classic U-shaped miter box, there are two more types of similar designs - a professional and a rotary tool. As for the professional option, only masters use it. The device is quite bulky, but it rotates at any angle and has a hacksaw that can be locked in the desired position.
Professional miter box with the ability to fix a hacksaw and workpiece.
The rotating device can easily be called a “pocket” miter box. The only advantage here is the ability to clearly fix the angle of rotation of the bar. On the one hand, it’s easy to work with - set the corner, apply it to the baseboard and cut it off. But on the other hand, you need to get used to such a tool; if you do not have experience working with a hacksaw, then you should not take a rotary miter box.
Advice: when choosing a classic U-shaped miter box, first of all, do not buy Chinese products. And secondly, try to buy models with the ability to rigidly fix the part inside; one of these models is shown in the photo below.
A miter box with the ability to fix the part inside is much more convenient to work with.
Method number 2. Trimming according to a template
Most often, both ceiling and floor skirting boards need to be cut at 45º. If there is no specialized tool nearby, then an improvised miter box can be drawn on a piece of notebook paper. From the school geometry course we know that the diagonal of any square in relation to the base has an inclination angle of 45º.
Next you need to draw a square and draw 2 diagonals in it - this will be the required 45º. All you have to do is correctly attach the plinth to the leaf and mark. True, in order to cut the plinth smoothly without guides, you need a good eye and a steady hand.
Method No. 3. Applied universal
Trimming at 45º is a common option, but what if you need a different angle and only have a hacksaw and a pencil? It turns out that there is a very simple way out of this situation. Plus, this method is universal, it is suitable for both external and internal corners.
Moreover, I can assure you that those angles that visually seem straight, in fact have deviations of a couple of degrees. As a result, you buy a good tool, cut at exactly 45º, and when joining, a gap appears between the baseboards. Here this problem disappears. And then, using an example, we will look at how to cut the ceiling plinth in the inner corner.
| Illustrations | Recommendations |
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Stage 1.
Take a fillet, place it on one side of the corner and use it to draw 2 lines, along the wall and along the ceiling.
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Stage 2. Do the same on the adjacent side of the corner. |
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Stage 3. If you draw a diagonal from the intersection of the lines on the ceiling to the inner corner, you will get the desired cutting line. |
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Stage 4. Next, take the tool and cut along the finished markings. If you are comfortable with a hacksaw, then the baseboards should fit together perfectly. |
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. As I already mentioned, using exactly the same technology you can trim outside corner. |
Important nuances
If you tried your best, but a small gap at the joint still “came out,” do not be discouraged. In wooden fillets, such a gap can be easily covered with furniture wax. To fill a gap on baseboards made of polyurethane, foam, plastic or plaster, putty is perfect. Naturally, the color of the composition must match the color of the baseboard.
All cracks in the area of the ceiling fillets are sealed with putty.
Wide ceiling fillets are certainly beautiful, but they can only be mounted on perfectly flat walls. If the plane of the wall in relation to the ceiling is wavy, then it is better to buy narrow polyurethane fillets, they are elastic and will smooth out this drawback.
The most questions arise about how to cut wallpaper to fit the ceiling plinth. There is nothing complicated here: the wallpaper is glued with a slight overlap on the baseboards and when the wall is completely glued, take a large spatula, place it in the corner and cut off the excess along the blade with a knife.
But keep in mind - neither the knife nor the spatula can be removed from the wall until you have gone through the entire plane. That is, you put a spatula from the corner, cut the wallpaper along the length of the blade, and then, without lifting the blade from the wall, move and cut until you reach the next corner.
Conclusion
All three methods I described work; the choice depends on what tool you have and what your professional skills are. If after watching the video you still have questions, welcome to the comments, I’ll help in any way I can.
If you are not confident in your abilities, then for both floor and ceiling plinths there are joining elements that allow you to do without trimming.