Information on how to fasten the lining may be needed in two cases: if you plan to do it yourself or if you want to be sure that employees construction company They don’t hack things, they follow technology. Our article will help you understand this issue and take into account all the nuances.
Installing lining is not a difficult task, but requires knowledge and experience
How to prepare the base
It is allowed to attach the lining directly to the wall or ceiling only under the following conditions:
if the surface is very flat and strictly level. This can be a wall made of timber, lined with OSB boards, plywood or other sheet material;
if the temperature and humidity in the building being finished is stable throughout the year. That is, it should be a dry, heated room with a normal microclimate.
In all other cases, before attaching the lining to the wall, a frame of parallel wooden blocks is installed on it. The distance between them is 40-60 cm. This frame allows you to solve several problems at once:
level the surface;
level out level differences;
create between the base and cladding air gap for ventilation of the rear surface of the lining.
Also, the space between the wall and the finish can be filled with heat-insulating materials, which is often resorted to before installing the lining in a bathhouse or sauna.
The thickness of the bars for the sheathing is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the ventilation gap
The frame is secured to the base with self-tapping screws or dowel nails, depending on the wall material. When installing it, the level is constantly monitored - all bars must be in the same horizontal (ceiling) or vertical (walls) plane.
How to choose the direction of installation of panels
Before you start constructing the frame, you need to choose in which direction the lining boards will be attached. This is important because the sheathing guide bars must run perpendicular to the direction of the sheathing.
There are several ways:
vertical- The most common. It allows you to visually increase the height of the room. For such wet rooms as a steam room in a bathhouse, it is also the most optimal, since water easily flows along the grooves between adjacent slats without lingering on the surface;
horizontal– visually pushes the walls apart. Some types of lining are attached only in the horizontal direction. These include the "American" and the board with the chosen quarter;
The “American” is mounted with the spike facing up to ensure normal water drainage from the surface
On our website you can get acquainted with the most – from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.
diagonal- used for the purpose decorative design walls and ceiling;
combined- Also decorative method styling, which allows you to create patterns from multidirectional lamellas. It is the most complex of those listed, since the lining is attached to the transverse bars of the sheathing, which in turn must have a corresponding pattern.
The combined method of fastening the lining is difficult to do independently. It is better to entrust this work to specialists
How to attach
You can install wooden lining using self-tapping screws, nails or special clamps - clamps. Each method has its own characteristics and advantages. If we are talking about how to properly attach the lining, then you can choose any of them. The choice itself depends on what is preferred: the appearance of the cladding, the speed of installation, the ability to quickly and easily dismantle the cladding.
On a note. Regardless of the chosen installation method, the elements are connected to each other by tightly inserting the next tenon into the groove of the previous panel.
The tongue-and-groove connection forms a continuous surface without through gaps
Let's look at each method in detail.
Through mount
This is the most quick way installation, but not the most aesthetically pleasing, since the caps of the fastening elements remain visible on the surface of the cladding. If desired, they can be recessed into the body of the board, and the recesses can be filled with putty or closed with pins made of the same type of wood as the lining, and then sanded. However, the attachment points will still remain visible.
In the described case, you have to carefully choose how to fasten the lining. It is recommended to use corrosion-resistant galvanized self-tapping screws rather than nails, which, when driven in, have a high risk of splitting the board along the grain of the wood. Under them, in each plank at the place where it intersects with the sheathing, through holes with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the hardware are pre-drilled.
It is better to screw in the screws in pairs, retreating 1-1.5 cm from the edges of the lamella
Also, through fastening is used to fix the first and last boards of the lining in the corners.
This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about how to choose the right lining for the facade of a house.
Hidden mount
The first lining is installed with a tenon in the corner and fixed with a through fastening. At the same time, be sure to control the vertical level;
at the intersection of the lining with the sheathing bars thin drill make through holes in inside groove, directing the drill at an angle of 45° to the surface;
A self-tapping screw is screwed into the prepared hole or a nail is driven in so that its head is recessed into the wood and does not interfere with the installation of the next lamella. In the case of nails, a hammer is used for this;
the second board is driven with a tenon into the groove of the already installed one and the process is repeated;
Scheme hidden fastening clapboards with nails
The last board, if necessary, is cut to width and fixed with a through fastening along the edge. Subsequently, the places of through fastening can be covered with decorative corners or plinths.
Fastening with clamps
Clamps are metal fasteners that allow you to maintain the integrity of the lining, secure it firmly to the frame, and, if necessary, easily dismantle the cladding.
To understand how to fasten the lining with clamps, you will need a description of this fastening element. This is a metal plate with holes along the edge through which it is fixed to the frame. In the middle part of the plate there is a tongue that fits onto the groove of the lining and holds it in place.
Clasps may differ in shape and size, but the most important thing is the height to which the tongue is raised. It should be equal to the wall thickness of the groove of the wooden panel. Therefore, before attaching the eurolining to the wall, make sure that the clamps are designed specifically for this type of cladding.
When using clamps wood panel remains unharmed
The installation technology is very simple; it does not require pre-drilling holes. The kleimer is simply put on the groove of the already secured first board of the lining, and through the holes on the plate it is attached to the sheathing. The thickness of the tongue will not prevent you from inserting the tenon of the next panel into the groove, which is fixed in a similar way.
To secure the clamps, you can use both nails and self-tapping screws.
And finally, a few tips that will ensure wood cladding reliability, durability and aesthetic appeal:
All wooden surfaces Before installation, including the sheathing, it is advisable to treat it with an antiseptic impregnation, especially if a wet room or external walls are finished with clapboard. This will prevent the spread of mold.
When finishing interior spaces materials must be kept in them for two to three days for acclimatization.
The lined surface can be painted, coated with oil, wax, varnish, or stain. Pre-priming will reduce the consumption of varnish or paint.
Video description
For a clear overview of the technology for installing lining on clamps, watch the video:
Conclusion
If you want to decorate a bathhouse or balcony yourself, the most environmentally friendly solution would be to use lining. Wood is easy and pleasant to work with, but such work requires attention and certain skills. Experienced finishers do an excellent job with it, and you can always invite them if you don’t have the time or self-confidence.
In this article, we will tell you about the stages of installing the lining and explain how to make a competent selection of materials. You will also learn the difference between installing lining on walls and installing it on the ceiling.
Preparatory stage
This stage is only needed if wooden lining () is used. Then, before you start working with the material, you need to let it stand in the room for at least a day - the wood should dry out and acquire room temperature. Only after this can you cut the lining required length. If this time is not maintained, the boards may not fit tightly to each other.
For this purpose, take a film made of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt. The installation of this material is carried out on slats, which must first be nailed to the wall. The width of the slats is taken less than 3 cm, and they are nailed to the wall in increments of 1 meter. Small holes are punched at the bottom and top of the vapor barrier to improve ventilation.
Important! This stage is not strictly necessary, but is highly desirable for premises exposed to high humidity from the street side.
How to make sheathing for lining
Using a screwdriver, we install slats with a cross section of 20×40 mm horizontally in increments of 40-50 cm, regularly checking with a level whether they are installed correctly. Using slats allows you to level the wall (so that the boards fit comfortably), as well as create a gap between the wall and the lining, which is needed to create ventilation.
If the wall is uneven, then you need to put something under the sheathing (or take a thicker sheathing). The mounting wedge, a piece of wooden beam or plywood. The sheathing is secured with long-length self-tapping screws and dowel nails. The bottom slats are 5 cm from the floor, since the bottom will be attached floor plinth, and the top ones - the same amount from the ceiling.
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Installation of the sheathing should also be done around openings, windows and doors. It is worth noting that the battens are made of plastic and metal. More information about installing the sheathing can be found here:
Combination of sheathing and vapor barrier
If a vapor barrier was not used, then the sheathing is installed directly to the wall.
If it was used, then the fastening of the sheathing slats depends on how exactly the vapor barrier was attached: if the slats on which the vapor barrier was attached were vertically fixed, then the sheathing slats should be fastened horizontally and vice versa. The sheathing is fastened to the slats on which the vapor barrier is located using long self-tapping screws.
Insulation is placed in the resulting space. It is usually used as insulation mineral wool. To prevent the insulation from sagging over time under the influence of moisture, it is advisable to secure it with polypropylene twine, which is usually attached to wooden slats using a construction stapler.
You can also install another layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation, which should be secured rough side to the insulation. This is not necessary, but it is highly advisable for a room whose walls may be exposed to moisture. Sometimes (especially when covering the outer part of buildings with clapboard), another sheathing is installed on top of the insulation.
The sheathing should be located both around window and doorways. You can also use plastic or metal sheathing.
Advice! If the room is warm enough, then installing insulation is not necessary. When using MDF or plastic lining Often, insulation is not taken at all; communications are placed in the space between the sheathing and the lining.
Installation of the first wooden lining
The first lining is fastened to the wall vertically from the corner of the room: first, a hole is made with a thin drill, and then secured with self-tapping screws along the entire height.
Info! If a wooden block-house lining is attached, then the installation of the first lining begins horizontally from the top of the room, and such lining must be constantly leveled to a stretched line or a horizontal level.
If a plastic lining is attached, then the first lining is fastened together with the molding (plastic strip).
It is worth noting that plastic PVC The lining differs from the well-known PVC panels in the absence of a seam when connecting (PVC panels are sometimes called seamless polymer lining). Therefore, PVC lining is attached to the wall in almost the same way as PVC panels are attached, except that each plastic piece is stapled to the sheathing.
Methods of fastening and how to fasten the lining
There are several options for how to properly fasten the lining: using clamps, self-tapping screws or nails. Best option(albeit longer and more expensive) - installation using clamps. Because in this case, the surface of the lining does not deteriorate, and, if necessary, it can be dismantled without damage.
How to attach lining to clamps
A clamp is installed in the groove of the installed lining. It is pushed into the groove of the lining with a hammer and then nails are driven into the holes of the clamp.
This clamp fastening of the lining is quite strong. Installation of the next one will be carried out in the same way: a new one is inserted into the groove of the fixed lining, carefully hammered in (so that there are no gaps between the boards) and again secured with clamps.
How to nail lining with nails or self-tapping screws
The fastening method using nails or self-tapping screws, unlike the previous one, “injures” the material.
Nailing of the lining with the help of finishing nails (with a small head) can go from the front part of the board obliquely from the longitudinal tongue (but not in the middle, otherwise cracking may occur).
This method has one more disadvantage - nails or screws will be visible on the front surface.
You can nail the ridge of the lining board if it comes with an offset profile. In this case, each subsequent board will cover the attachment point and it will not be visible.
Important! Regularly check with a level that the lining is installed level. There is no need to fit the boards very tightly together, otherwise they may swell when exposed to moisture and move away from the wall.
Installation of fittings
After the lining is installed, you need to close the edges. A plinth or fillet is best suited for this. This element is fastened to the wall using small nails.
If plastic lining was used, then the fittings sit on glue.
Lining surface treatment
This stage only concerns wooden lining because it must be covered special composition, protecting against insects and moisture. For this purpose, antiseptics, bio-moisture protective compounds are used, and sometimes flame retardants are used - a composition that reduces the likelihood of ignition. With the help of coating you can give various shades(varnish is used for this), and it should be updated every few years.
Features of fixing lining to the ceiling
If the frame on which the lining will be attached is wooden, then creating such a frame is almost the same as lathing on a wall. In this case, the distance between the slats of such a frame can be made slightly larger.
If the frame is metal, then instead of lathing, more a complex system hangers on which the guide profile will be attached. Weight Limit In this case, the design of such a ceiling can be increased by a large number of suspensions.
As you have already seen, installing lining with your own hands is a completely feasible task, which can be completed with proper preparation and our step by step instructions every. To conclude the review, watch the video. Good luck!
Differences between lining and eurolining
- Eurolining has the best quality wood
- Has a more complex profile
- Eurolining has a deeper tongue-and-groove fastening
- Has ventilation channels
- More expensive than regular lining
The process of attaching eurolining does not differ from covering it with ordinary lining, even though eurolining has higher requirements for board moisture and the quality of surface treatment, so pay special attention to this.
How to attach lining video
Wall decoration with clapboard
https://youtu.be/c7b-jUo1nTc
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining - video
How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse
Wall decoration with clapboard is possible as standard in wooden house, V ordinary apartment, on the balcony, as well as in the bathhouse. Covering the steam room with clapboard is perhaps the best and affordable solution. Installing lining in a bathhouse has its own distinctive features. The best wood for a steam room is ash, oak, birch, aspen, pine, spruce, cedar or larch. Before covering the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to treat it with special antifungal agents (antiseptics) twice.
The process of attaching the lining to the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse does not differ from the standard one; you can nail the lining to nails or self-tapping screws, or attach it to clamps.
Important! After laying in a bathhouse, the lining cannot be coated with varnishes and paints.
You will find useful tips for laying lining in a steam room in this video:
Despite the emergence of an increasing number of different finishing materials“lining” still “doesn’t go out of fashion.” This natural wood material is loved for its environmental friendliness, attractive appearance, the ability to hide unevenness and defects in walls and ceilings and, importantly, for the comparative ease of installation. Not only professional builders, but also “home craftsmen” can sheathe walls or ceilings with wooden clapboards in a high-quality manner. Of course, for this it is necessary to comply with several simple rules, which we will talk about in this article. So, we lay the wooden lining ourselves.
Calculation of the required amount of material
Before going to the store, you need to decide on the required amount of material. If for calculation required quantity wallpaper, it is enough to simply divide the area of the walls by the area of the roll and in some cases add 10% to the “report”, but when calculating the required amount of lining the situation is somewhat more complicated.
The lining is available in lengths of 6, 4, 3, 2.7, 2.1 and 2 meters. It is ideal when the length of your wall is equal to or slightly less than one of the lining lengths offered on the market. But what if it is significantly smaller than one of the sizes, but slightly larger than the other? Let's look at this case using an example.
Let's say you need to cover a wall 3 meters 12 centimeters long. For this purpose, you can purchase a 4-meter-long lining, but in this case, almost a quarter of the material will be unclaimed (in other words, you will buy 25% more lining than you need). Another option is to buy boards 3 meters long and add a small section to each of them. But, you must admit, such “short ones” will not look very beautiful. That's why the best option in this case, it will be to buy a lining 2 meters 10 centimeters long. Thus, we can cover three rows of lining with two boards (one whole and one cut in half) and the amount of waste in this case will be minimal. Based on this, it will be enough to divide the height of the room by the height of one lining board and multiply the resulting result by 1.5. This is exactly how many boards 2.1 meters long will be needed to cover this wall.
An example of laying lining “three boards on two rows”
Choosing lining in the store
Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, the lining must be carefully selected. Moreover, the manufacturer’s brand in this case does not play any role - even from the same company, two different batches of lining can differ significantly from each other.
The quality of the lining is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. The Extra variety is of the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and almost guarantee to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of defects.
It’s better to buy lining not in packaging - you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing
Grade A is also of fairly high quality, but with grades B and C it is better, as they say, to “keep your eyes open.” It is better to purchase lining not in packaging - this way you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing. But such lining is sold extremely rarely; more often the boards are packed in 10 pieces per transparent film. In this case, unfortunately, it will not be possible to inspect every board.
More often, boards are packed in 10 pieces in transparent film.
Although, to tell the truth, completely unusable boards are extremely rare. Even if there are one or two knots, the board can be used to make short sections for covering the slopes of a window or, say, a door jamb.
But it makes sense to inspect the ends of the lining, visible through the film, quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, it is better to put such packages aside.
Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way. First, you need to inspect the boards for the presence of knots and cracks, and if they are found, either put these boards aside, or (if there is “butt” material) eliminate the defects by stripping or puttying problem areas. And, secondly, the lining must be allowed to “acclimatize” in the room. In other words, it must reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored outside) the board may “lead” after laying. To do this, it is enough to lay out the boards in several layers, making spacers of timber between them.
Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way
Some believe that on preparatory stage the lining needs to be processed antiseptics, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply an antiseptic already on finished walls, so this preparation stage can be completely skipped.
Preparing the walls
Preparing walls for laying lining can be considered the most critical stage, on which the final result largely depends. In most cases, except when the lining is stuffed directly onto wooden walls, to install it on the walls it is necessary to mount a sheathing of timber.
To install the lining on the walls, it is necessary to install a sheathing made of timber
A beam with a cross section of 40 by 20 millimeters is best suited for this purpose.
You don’t have to pre-level the walls before laying the lining, but it is necessary to align the sheathing at the same level.
To do this, the first step is to determine the most protruding area on each wall. This is quite easy to do. A cord is stretched under the ceiling at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the wall, onto which a thread with a load is hung using a wire hook, which represents a plumb line. Next, the plumb line moves along the wall. By controlling the distance between the plumb line and different points on the wall, it will be possible to determine the most protruding section. All further measurements will have to “dance” from this place.
A small piece of timber is attached to the most protruding section of the wall, from which the sheathing will be mounted. A thread is pulled from this “beacon”, parallel to the planned direction of laying the lining. After this, two load-bearing beams are installed at the extreme points of the wall (near the floor and ceiling for vertical installation or at opposite walls for horizontal installation). Please note that the front part of the beam must clearly coincide with the level of the lighthouse, so if necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall.
If necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall
Spacers can only be installed in those places where the timber will be attached to the wall with dowel nails.
When the outer bars are fixed (don't forget to check them with a level), you can stretch another thread between them, which will make it easier to install the remaining load-bearing elements of the sheathing.
Subsequent beams are attached to the wall at a distance of about one meter from each other. In this case, as in the case of the outer bars, if necessary, additional spacers are placed under them. If one row of lining will be formed from two boards, be sure to install a beam at the joint.
Fastening the lining to the wall
If the sheathing is installed correctly, installation of the lining itself will not be difficult. The only question that needs to be resolved before installing it is where to start laying the lining and whether to use a level when installing the first board.
To answer this question, it is necessary to determine how much the ceiling (with horizontal laying) or walls (when laid vertically) in the room correspond to the level. If they are level, then there are no problems - you can start installation both from above and from below (or from any corner), and the first board is attached strictly level. But if the ceiling is a little “piled up” on one side or one of the corners is noticeably “mewed” (this situation is quite common in houses old building), then laying the lining level is under no circumstances possible. In this case, straight boards will only emphasize the curvature of the room, and in uneven corner you will have to cut the last of the boards "at an angle".
In order to hide the unevenness of the room as much as possible, the lining is laid as follows. The first board is attached flush to a crooked corner or uneven ceiling, and all subsequent boards are installed with a slight distortion on one side, until the next board is “level.” Thus, a slight tilt of the boards will be almost invisible.
To accurately determine with what skew to install the boards, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling in opposite corners of the room (or the length of the floor and ceiling between opposite corners when laying vertically) and divide the difference between the obtained values by the number of boards that will be laid on the shorter side . The resulting value will be the distance by which you need to “fill” each of the lining boards along the longer side of the installation. If this value is less than 2-3 millimeters, you can repeat the calculation using half the number of boards as a divisor. In this case, you will “reach the level” already in the middle of the wall.
The first board of the lining is attached with a “ridge” to the corner. You can fix it with the help of small nails, which are driven in “hidden” (when finishing off it is better to use a blunt closer) or with special clamps- claymers.
You can fix the lining with the help of small nails that are driven in “sunk”
Can be used for surface finishing different materials. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.
One of the common options for surface cladding is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.
In this article we will take a closer look at installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.
Ways to fasten the lining
Try to lay the bars evenly Installation of lining on walls is best done using lathing - a wooden frame. To do this, all the sheathing bars, both in the horizontal and vertical planes, must be level.
Even minor mistakes can, over time, lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.
After the installation of the sheathing is completed, the lining is fastened. Below you can see a diagram of the lathing for surface finishing.
Keep in mind that if the lining is used to cover surfaces in a bathhouse, the material must be pre-treated with antiseptics.
The installation of the lining will not depend on the fastening method. The work will be the same for walls and ceilings. There are two ways to place boards:
- Vertical. With this method of placement, work begins from one of the nodes. The first board is fastened with the groove facing outwards. The next plank is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fastening the board, use a level to check the evenness of its placement.
- Horizontal. With this placement, the tenon of the board is directed upward, which allows water to roll down the finish. This installation begins from the ceiling.
Do not attach the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps After all the boards are installed, insert into the groove of the finishing panel small area boards, which is nailed with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent the appearance of cracks or holes.
When installing lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, the boards may swell after a certain time. After finishing is completed, the cracks are covered with plinth.
Regardless of the chosen fastening method, the first and last planks are attached using nails with a small head.
The remaining panels can be attached in the following ways:
- using screws, self-tapping screws or nails;
- clasps. This is the name for clamps that are designed with a special holder that holds the tenon of the board;
- construction stapler.
You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the sheathing and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the rest of the sheathing bars.
Fastening with nails
A standard size board will require 6 - 7 nails This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not capable of ensuring a long service life of the structure. When driven in, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a punch or pre-make holes in in the right area panels.
For one board standard sizes You will need approximately 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving in. But in some situations, this fastening method is the only possible solution. 
For this work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered in with a hammer. The caps are driven inside using a hammer, this will allow you to easily install the next plank.
Fastening with self-tapping screws
Choose quality fasteners This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls does not have special significance. You can often find the use of this method for building baths.
But high humidity and sudden changes in temperature can lead to drying out of fasteners, which will further worsen the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.
For prevention, it is better to treat the boards every three months.
Self-tapping screws are fairly high-quality fasteners, so if a long service life of the finish is required, their use can be considered the optimal solution.
To implement such fasteners, you will need to pre-drill holes in the boards. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fastener.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board using a screwdriver. They must enter to the maximum possible depth. To hide the fastening site, you can use a wooden pin or sand the surface.
Fastening with a stapler
How to properly attach lining to a wall using a stapler? This procedure is quite easy and will not take much of your time and effort. But at the same time, you will need to know how to use such a tool. For more information on how to fasten lining with a stapler, watch this video:
Staples must be inserted at an angle of 45°. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent bar installation procedure will proceed without complications.
Fastening with clamps
It is convenient to use clamps for hidden fasteners Clamps will provide hidden fastener almost any finish.
At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.
Installing lining using such devices will achieve the following advantages:
- At making the right choice size of the fastener, you can install it discreetly and guarantee its strength.
- The clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sudden changes in temperature for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bathhouses.
To install eurolining of a standard profile, clamps with a tongue height of about 4 mm are purchased, and for fastening a block house - 6 mm. To finish 1 m2 of surface you will need about 20 clamps.
With this method of fixation, the plate is placed on the tenon of the first panel and secured to the sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws.
There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to install the lining on one nail, as it can be torn out.
It is better to screw in screws using a screwdriver. This will significantly speed up and facilitate the process.
Horizontal installation of lining
When placing the boards horizontally, installation can be done from the bottom of the wall. With this choice, you can clearly see how best to attach the trim. In the ceiling section, the final board is cut to width, which will significantly deteriorate the decorative component. In addition, with this installation method there will be holes between the boards, which will have a negative impact if moisture levels in the bathhouse or sauna are high. For more information on how to clap a house horizontally, watch this video:
Therefore, mainly when placed horizontally, the boards begin to be fastened from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down directly under the ceiling. The next element is fastened with the first ridge into the groove of the previous one.
All boards are installed according to this scheme. The final strip is cut to width and inserted using a pry bar or nail puller. A small hole near the floor is hidden using a plinth.
As you can see, fastening the lining can be done different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preferences and knowledge. The work is quite easy, so professional help is most likely not required.
This stage is only needed if wooden lining () is used. Then, before you start working with the material, you need to let it stand in the room for at least a day - the wood should dry out and reach room temperature. Only after this can the lining be cut to the required length. If this time is not maintained, the boards may not fit tightly to each other.
For this purpose, take a film made of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt. The installation of this material is carried out on slats, which must first be nailed to the wall. The width of the slats is taken less than 3 cm, and they are nailed to the wall in increments of 1 meter. Small holes are punched at the bottom and top of the vapor barrier to improve ventilation.
Important! This stage is not strictly necessary, but is highly desirable for rooms exposed to high humidity from the street.
How to make sheathing for lining
Using a screwdriver, we install slats with a cross section of 20×40 mm horizontally in increments of 40-50 cm, regularly checking with a level whether they are installed correctly. Using slats allows you to level the wall (so that the boards fit comfortably), as well as create a gap between the wall and the lining, which is needed to create ventilation.
If the wall is uneven, then you need to put something under the sheathing (or take a thicker sheathing). A mounting wedge, a piece of wooden beam or plywood is usually used as a lining. The sheathing is secured with long-length self-tapping screws and dowel nails. The lower slats are 5 cm from the floor, since the floor plinth will be attached below, and the upper ones are the same amount from the ceiling.
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Installation of the sheathing should also be done around openings, windows and doors. It is worth noting that the battens are made of plastic and metal. More information about installing the sheathing can be found here:
Combination of sheathing and vapor barrier
If a vapor barrier was not used, then the sheathing is installed directly to the wall.
If it was used, then the fastening of the sheathing slats depends on how exactly the vapor barrier was attached: if the slats on which the vapor barrier was attached were vertically fixed, then the sheathing slats should be fastened horizontally and vice versa. The sheathing is fastened to the slats on which the vapor barrier is located using long self-tapping screws.
Insulation is placed in the resulting space. Mineral wool is usually used as insulation. To prevent the insulation from sagging over time under the influence of moisture, it is advisable to secure it with polypropylene twine, which is usually attached to wooden slats using a construction stapler.
You can also install another layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation, which should be attached with the rough side to the insulation. This is not necessary, but it is highly advisable for a room whose walls may be exposed to moisture. Sometimes (especially when covering the outer part of buildings with clapboard), another sheathing is installed on top of the insulation.
The sheathing should also be located around window and door openings. You can also use plastic or metal sheathing.
Advice! If the room is warm enough, then installing insulation is not necessary. When using MDF or plastic lining, insulation is often not taken at all; communications are placed in the space between the sheathing and the lining.
Installation of the first wooden lining
The first lining is fastened to the wall vertically from the corner of the room: first, a hole is made with a thin drill, and then secured with self-tapping screws along the entire height.
Info! If a wooden block-house lining is attached, then the installation of the first lining begins horizontally from the top of the room, and such lining must be constantly leveled to a stretched line or a horizontal level.
If a plastic lining is attached, then the first lining is fastened together with the molding (plastic strip).
It is worth noting that plastic PVC lining differs from well-known PVC panels in the absence of a seam when connecting (PVC panels are sometimes called seamless polymer lining). Therefore, PVC lining is attached to the wall in almost the same way as PVC panels are attached, except that each plastic piece is stapled to the sheathing.
Methods of fastening and how to fasten the lining
There are several options for how to properly fasten the lining: using clamps, self-tapping screws or nails. The best option (albeit longer and more expensive) is installation using clamps. Because in this case, the surface of the lining does not deteriorate, and, if necessary, it can be dismantled without damage.
How to attach lining to clamps
A clamp is installed in the groove of the installed lining. It is pushed into the groove of the lining with a hammer and then nails are driven into the holes of the clamp.
This clamp fastening of the lining is quite strong. Installation of the next one will be carried out in the same way: a new one is inserted into the groove of the fixed lining, carefully hammered in (so that there are no gaps between the boards) and again secured with clamps.
How to nail lining with nails or self-tapping screws
The fastening method using nails or self-tapping screws, unlike the previous one, “injures” the material.
Nailing of the lining with the help of finishing nails (with a small head) can go from the front part of the board obliquely from the longitudinal tongue (but not in the middle, otherwise cracking may occur).
This method has one more disadvantage - nails or screws will be visible on the front surface.
You can nail the ridge of the lining board if it comes with an offset profile. In this case, each subsequent board will cover the attachment point and it will not be visible.
Important! Regularly check with a level that the lining is installed level. There is no need to fit the boards very tightly together, otherwise they may swell when exposed to moisture and move away from the wall.
Installation of fittings
After the lining is installed, you need to close the edges. A plinth or fillet is best suited for this. This element is fastened to the wall using small nails.
If plastic lining was used, then the fittings sit on glue.
Lining surface treatment
This stage applies only to wooden lining as it must be coated with a special compound that protects against insects and moisture. For this purpose, antiseptics, bio-moisture protective compounds are used, and sometimes flame retardants are used - a composition that reduces the likelihood of ignition. With the help of the coating you can give different shades (varnish is used for this), and it must be updated every few years.
Features of fixing lining to the ceiling
If the frame on which the lining will be attached is wooden, then creating such a frame is almost the same as lathing on a wall. In this case, the distance between the slats of such a frame can be made slightly larger.
If the frame is metal, then instead of the sheathing, a more complex system of suspensions will be used, onto which the guide profile will be attached. In this case, the maximum weight of the structure of such a ceiling can be increased by a large number of suspensions.
As you have already seen, installing lining with your own hands is a completely feasible task that anyone can cope with with proper preparation and our step-by-step instructions. To conclude the review, watch the video. Good luck!
Differences between lining and eurolining
- Eurolining has the best quality wood
- Has a more complex profile
- Eurolining has a deeper tongue-and-groove fastening
- Has ventilation channels
- More expensive than regular lining
The process of attaching eurolining does not differ from covering it with ordinary lining, even though eurolining has higher requirements for board moisture and the quality of surface treatment, so pay special attention to this.
How to attach lining video
Wall decoration with clapboard
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining - video
How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse
Wall decoration with clapboard is possible as standard in a wooden house, in an ordinary apartment, on a balcony, and also in a bathhouse. Covering the steam room with clapboard is perhaps the best and most affordable solution. The installation of lining in a bathhouse has its own distinctive features. The best wood for a steam room is ash, oak, birch, aspen, pine, spruce, cedar or larch. Before covering the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to treat it with special antifungal agents (antiseptics) twice.
The process of attaching the lining to the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse does not differ from the standard one; you can nail the lining to nails or self-tapping screws, or attach it to clamps.
Important! After laying in a bathhouse, the lining cannot be coated with varnishes and paints.
You will find useful tips for laying lining in a steam room in this video: