How to lay lining with your own hands: instructions from “A” to “Z.” Installation of lining: instructions for installing wooden panels and caring for them (80 photos) How to attach lining under timber to the wall

Lining is an excellent universal material for the final finishing ceiling surfaces, internal and external walls. This cladding is also perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern each time.

What particularly impresses is the ease of working with this material. You can easily handle clapboard cladding on your own.

But first you should always use teaching aid. This could be an instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.

Using instructions

Detailed instructions are one of the most best helpers in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is beneficial, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.

For greater understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, as an additional visual material A photo of the installation of the lining would be suitable. And of course, one cannot help but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.

It is important to take advantage of everyone educational materials study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can calmly begin work.

Stages of cladding

Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:

Carry out preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnated with special compounds such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.

After the paint composition has dried, a sheathing of wooden slats or beams with a cross-section of 5x5 cm is installed over the selected area. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.

The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.

The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for attaching the frame.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation Do-it-yourself lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the resulting cells, when using timber, heat-insulating slabs are installed. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is finishing with wood panels. The room takes on a finished look.

Technology correct installation lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
the paneling is attached to wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are positioned down. To make the panels even, make a bottom adjustment using a trim piece wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.

Differences in fasteners and their characteristics

For fixation use fasteners. The tenons of subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.

Nails driven into grooves are the most accurate, almost invisible type of fastening. The clamps are characterized as high-quality fixation. For staples, it is necessary to use a mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.

Technique for aligning panels

The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. Along the line of its joining with the corner they lay decorative plinth. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out very beautiful appearance.

A similar finishing with plinths is carried out along all lines where the wall surfaces meet the ceiling, along wall corners and protrusions.

The procedure for covering the ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.

Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows that appear between the facing elements are hidden.

Photo of lining installation

In the world of metal, plastic and concrete, it is quite difficult to feel comfortable. It’s prestigious to live in a house decorated with technological materials, but you will be haunted by feelings of cold.

The presence of wood in the interior will bring the missing warmth and create a natural microclimate. And if you decide to sheathe wooden slats walls, the issue of wall decoration and comfort should be resolved at the same time.

The lumber is suitable for both interior and facade finishing. But you shouldn’t make the entire wall the same type, relying on decorative features cladding, because the fine texture of the boards in small spaces does not look interesting. It is welcome in the form of panels, and goes well with other textures, such as plaster or wallpaper. The balcony looks decent, where such cladding is especially appropriate.

The natural material is made from well-known tree species that grow everywhere.

Ennobled look "Extra" - from coniferous species and aspen, is considered elite and suitable for interior decoration.

Cladding boards of grade A also belong to the highest class. B and C are in demand for outdoor use. In addition to eurolining, there are also decorative types(block house).

The slats vary in length and are available in 4 sizes: 2 100 mm with a subsequent increase in parameters by 30 mm - 2400 etc

In general, the range allows you to choose a material based on the capabilities and ideas about the practicality of cladding.

In addition to environmentally friendly lining, a polymer analogue is also produced. For a specific room, suitable slats of a certain type of wood are selected, and the priority depends on the purpose of the room. Thus, a bathhouse is not finished with pine for the reason that it reacts to high degrees by releasing resin.

Plastic panels are relevant for baths and kitchens - beautiful in appearance, but not comparable to the natural energy of wood.

Walls made of natural boards are:

warm
good sound insulation
the smell of the forest
long service life

Making cladding is not difficult if you have patience and have at least approximate skills in working with tools.

At the preparation stage, the boards are covered protective composition(basic “Pinotex”). For shade, they are treated with stain or glaze (for example, “Belinka”), but this is already at the finishing stage.

After the process, they need to be dried well, and brought into the house a day before the start of work, so that the wood does not dry out later.

Installation with clamps, nails and staples

Installation of the lining takes place on the sheathing. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.

The finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm. Initially, the structure frame is leveled using a level or plumb line.

The space between the sheathing slats will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. Insulation is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is placed on it. Both layers not only retain heat, but also make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the sheathing, which Necessarily processed antiseptic primer.

The method of choosing a mount is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the tenon into the recess of the board.

The fastening is:

secret
external

performed:

staples
screws
nails
clampers

What are we going to fasten it with?

Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. When using nails, use a hammer - this will help to completely sink the head into the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.

If you have decided on this point, it’s time to move directly to the process. Even before the construction of the sheathing began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now you only need to align the guides.

If you want to lay the lining horizontally, create a visual impression wide room. When the planks move vertically, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. The preference is yours.

Horizontal version

The principle of the arrangement of the planks starts from the ceiling and moves towards the floor with a similar direction of the grooves. This will prevent the entry of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.

Note on working with block house lining, similar in appearance to rounded log.

The groove should point upward and the side of the board, according to the idea, should hide the border of the connection. In principle, there should be no gaps left, and to avoid them, the planks are adjusted with a hammer or a piece of lath.
The parts are connected to the sheathing with nails with small heads, which are successfully hidden under the next element.

All that remains is to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the slats, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The facing is ready.

The layout of the lining with an upward direction starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the sheathing. The caps will then be hidden by the inserted corner or you can bite them off with side cutters

Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and the smooth canvas forms a flawlessly designed wall.

At the final stage, beautiful slats, baseboards and corners are nailed down.

We install lining on aerated concrete walls

Let's consider the option of cladding directly onto the surface without a wooden structure.

From a collection of materials, we select strips with a defect for the guides, pre-treated with a protective compound.
Take a drill bit for concrete 6 mm and make holes.
We set the first level in both planes.
Insert a dowel into the finished hole NAT 6.
We screw screws into the grooves of the planks and insert them into the nylon dowel.
We control the exact location of the guides. For correction, we insert fragments from hard linings.

We will prepare clamps for fastening and fix each one 3 carnations. The way to work with them is this:

A fastener element is inserted into the groove and nailed into the open holes. In the process, we use an extension - an inverted nail with the tip sticking out forward. This technique will prevent deformation of the wooden edges;
Drowning 2 nail, turn the clamp according to the vector directed towards the sheathing. We track the vertical of the bar;
All that's left is to score 3rd nail in the center. We nail the finishing part with a thin nail along the edge, and the imperfections of the fasteners will be hidden by the decorative plinth;

In front of you is a solid surface where you need to cut out a place for the socket.

Since it was provided in advance, you took care of running the cable and only covered it with cardboard while you were working.

At the time of cladding, its location was marked on the boards in the neighborhood. Therefore, it will not be possible to take the system outside special effort. Now we cut out the opening using a wood cutter. We install a tree box into the gaping space, and now all that's left is the electrical work.

Decorative tinting moments are left on last stage. A translucent glaze that creates a protective barrier with a translucent structural surface is relevant.

Everything is learned in practice, and the experience gained and confidence in your abilities will push you to other achievements in home improvement. Go ahead and let your design be unique!

Lining is a universal material. With its help, you can decorate a house or apartment, attaching it to the ceiling, external and external walls, and upholstering doors with it. Installing the lining will not take much time and will not require special knowledge, so even a beginner can do it.

Peculiarities

The fastening of the lining itself does not cause any particular difficulties. It is easy to install, especially if you have experience in the construction industry.

Speaking about the advantages of this material, we can cite the most important of them.

Environmental friendliness. The lining is produced using special technology. Whatever material it is made from, you can be sure that the slats will not highlight harmful substances. They are absolutely safe for humans, animals and the environment.
Aesthetic appeal. Visually, the lining is assessed as stylish and solid. It adds coziness to any room. Depending on the installation method, you can use lining to expand the room or increase the height of the ceilings in it.

Ease of installation. This is one of those properties that attracts every owner who decides to do the cladding or interior decoration of the house with their own hands.
Strength. The lining tolerates mechanical stress well, without fear of shock and friction. It is not so easy to scratch, and if something happens, you can quickly eliminate the flaw by simply sanding it and covering the area with varnish.
Easy to care for. The lining is easy to clean. In addition, it is practically not subject to contamination.

This material also has one drawback - it is expensive. High-quality lining is expensive, and poor quality material not worth buying.

Kinds

Today there is a large number of various types linings. They are classified according to material, cross section and classes. All these parameters are equally important, since they are reflected in the appearance of the lining, its operational characteristics, as well as the ability to install it inside or outside the house.

According to the material of manufacture

One of the fundamental classifications is the division according to the materials from which the lining is made. Thus, the material determines the appearance, scope of use and cost. It is worth noting that there are both budget linings and expensive ones made from solid wood.

Based on financial capabilities, the style of the house and where the clapboard finishing will be carried out, you need to choose its type.

Plastic

Plastic lining belongs to the budget category and is often used when decorating rustic or country houses, in which they do not live permanently.

The material has many advantages:

suitable for finishing walls and ceilings;
it can be secured so that there are no seams;
wide range of color solutions;
light weight.

The advantages can be added to the relatively low price.

Unfortunately, this type has many more disadvantages than advantages.

Fragility. PVC lining is easy to deform, bend and break. For this reason, it is recommended to use it only for interior decoration.
Poor UV resistance. Being under straight lines sun rays, plastic lining quickly fades and turns yellow, which negatively affects its appearance.
Does not tolerate cold well. In the cold, PVC lining becomes covered with cracks, into which dust subsequently gets clogged.

If you use a plastic model only for interior decoration, all these disadvantages disappear.

Metal

The material for this type of lining is aluminum. The result is durable, lightweight and inexpensive samples. The color of the aluminum lining can be any. Often it is coated with a coating that imitates wood.

Unfortunately, metal lining is easily damaged during transportation and installation: it bends and deforms easily, and it will no longer be possible to straighten it back. In addition, it cannot be scratched. Aluminum profiles covered special composition preventing corrosion. If it is damaged, rust will soon appear.

Usually metal lining used for facing work, since inside the house it looks somewhat rough. In addition, it is not recommended for use on the ceiling. During installation, you must strictly follow the technology so as not to damage the lamellas, otherwise over time the lamella will corrode and will have to be replaced.

Wooden

This type is the most sought after and popular. This is not surprising, because wooden lining looks status and impressive. In addition, it most helps to create a feeling of home comfort.

If we talk about the disadvantages of wooden lining, there are only two of them.

Susceptibility to climatic influences. Changes in temperature, pressure and humidity can cause the lining to become deformed and lose its attractive appearance.
Need for care. To avoid damage to the lining, you need to ensure that it is clean, free of cracks, and also take care to negate all negative climatic influences.

Wooden lining is made from the following wood species:

Linden;
aspen;
alder;
ash;
cedar;
larch;
pine;

Cross section

On this basis, several types of lining are also distinguished.

"Standard"

This type of lining is equipped standard system"tenon and groove". To prevent deformation if the wood dries out, the tenon is made slightly shorter than the groove. After all installation work is completed, the laid lining is laid end-to-end, and the surface is smooth. Keep in mind that there should be no gaps or gaps between the planks.

The advantages of this type include good heat and sound insulation properties. The presence of compensation gaps makes it possible to install it in rooms with high humidity, therefore this type of lining is often chosen for baths and saunas.

"Calm"

Other names for “calm” lining are Russian, simple, “collective farmer”. She is popular due to her neat appearance. It cannot be said that the “calm” lining is very different from the previous version. The only difference is the beveled corners of the planks. So, if when laying the lining “standard” it turns out flat wall without gaps, then in the case of “calm” there are beautiful concave lines along the entire wall.

Good heat and sound insulation functions are maintained here as well.. In addition, only high quality wood is used to produce this type of model, so it looks more attractive than the “standard” option.

Eurolining

This type differs from the others in that it has better ventilation properties. This is achieved through tenons and grooves bigger size. Such properties are important if eurolining is used for facade cladding. Therefore, craftsmen recommend choosing this particular option for facing work.

Possibilities for interior finishing using of this sample are also not limited: you can mount it on walls or ceilings. However, keep in mind that eurolining is one of the most expensive types among others, so it is recommended to use it only for the facade, and for interior work choose a simpler option.

"Softline"

The name of this model comes from the English “soft line”, which characterizes its appearance. It has rounded edges that look noble and fit well into some interiors. She found her buyer precisely thanks to this feature.

Concerning performance qualities, then they are not much different from the qualities of other types. "Softline" provides good sound and heat insulation. It is suitable mainly for interior decoration, as it external cladding doesn't look so attractive. Well suited for finishing ceiling spaces.

"Landhouse"

Landhouse lining differs from all others in that it has a beautiful figured surface. In this case, the inner surface is flat. A wide variety of shaped surfaces are available. In the photo below you can see just a few of them.

“Landhouse” is used mainly for interior decoration, and it is used not only for wall cladding, but also for ceilings. By combining slats with various patterns, it is possible to achieve an interesting effect and create a unique atmosphere in the interior. Such solutions look especially unusual in baths and saunas, making them look like a steam room in a spa.

"Block house"

Blockhouse lining is one of the best solutions, When we're talking about about façade finishing. In appearance it is an imitation of a rounded log. “Blockhouse” is supplied not as individual lamellas, but as whole slabs.

There are options made of plastic, metal and wood, while metal and wooden lining are almost always stylized as wood. Unfortunately, one of the most important disadvantages of the “blockhouse” is poor cross-country ability. Simply put, the material does not “breathe”. Therefore, it is imperative to make ventilation gaps.

If they are done incorrectly, water can seep under the lining and over time lead to mold or destruction of the walls of the house.

"American"

This type of lining exactly imitates siding panels, but is made of natural wood. The panel has an unusual beveled shape, thanks to which the “American” is laid as if overlapping.

In most cases, facades are sheathed with “American”, placing it horizontally. This is how water flows from the walls - a sort of self-cleaning function is obtained. However, in the case of wooden lining, everything is not so rosy, because exposure to moisture is not very beneficial for it.

Double-sided

This variety is named so because the planks do not have a back side - both sides are front sides. This is convenient because you don’t have to worry about correct location slats. There is also always the opportunity to choose a more beautiful side by placing the knotty pattern on the back.

The disadvantage of this type is the installation limitation. Thus, double-sided lining cannot be placed in rooms with high humidity, because it does not have compensation gaps. Here, both the tenon and the groove are the same length, so when expanded, the wood is irreversibly deformed.

By wood class

Class A

First class lining is excellent for covering walls and ceilings in rooms. There are no falling knots on it, there are barely noticeable blind cracks and resin veins. The slats are the same color and have a beautiful pattern on them.

In general, class A lining can also be used for facade works, but it is expensive, so this is not always justified when you consider how much material is required for external cladding. Sometimes such lining is used to place accents, highlighting one wall or part of it. This approach allows you to save money, while the fastening technology does not change.

Class B

Class B lining looks less attractive than first class samples. This is due to the fact that darkening and cracks are twice as common. Captive knots and resin pockets are also possible, which is why such lining looks untidy.

Despite the fact that in general everything is not so bad, it is not recommended to use lining of the second category for finishing residential premises. But it's perfect for technical rooms, for example, a dressing room or veranda. You can also use it to create a beautiful façade cladding. The cost of class B lining is on average 180 rubles per cubic meter.

Class C

This lining belongs to the worst class. You can find all the flaws there are on it. These include falling knots, resin pockets, through cracks, uneven color, and unattractive wood grain. This type of lining is rarely used in construction, preferring better options.

Nevertheless, many will appreciate the low cost of this material, which partially compensates for external shortcomings. In terms of quality of service, this class is no worse than others; it is inferior only in aesthetic terms. Third class lining can only be found in types such as “standard” and “spire”.

"Extra" class

This lining belongs to the premium class. There are no knots on the boards, resin pockets and cracks. All slats are even and the same color. This type It is best suited for decorating residential premises, as it looks respectable, expensive and neat. There are also no problems during operation: the lining is varnished, so you only need to wipe off the dust from time to time. Since such panels are the rarest, their price is much higher than for class A.

Having familiarized yourself with the types of lining in more detail, you will know what difficulties you may encounter during installation, as well as which option is best to use and when.

Which rooms should I use it in?

Cladding trim is used everywhere, but Most often it is chosen to decorate the following rooms and premises:

bedroom;
balcony;
living room;
terrace;
veranda;
bath;
kitchen;
attic

The lining also looks great on the facade, which can be seen on following examples:

Fastener selection

It is important not only to choose the right lining, but also to decide how you will attach it. There are several popular types of mounts to consider.

Kleimers

Metal clamps (you can also find gluers) can be bought at any hardware store. Fastening with their help is considered the most difficult, but at the same time the most accurate. Nails or screws are completely hidden by the lining. Due to the fact that they are not visible, the lining does not look like a fence, but looks like a solid slab. From the outside it seems that the lamellas are attached to glue.

It is important to choose the correct nail size. It is necessary that its cap be slightly wider than the holes in the clamp, but at the same time it should not stick out too much, otherwise it will not be possible to secure the panels.

Staples

To secure the lining with staples, you will need to use a special mounting gun. Working with it requires skill, so first practice on an unnecessary board. Few people succeed in attaching the paneling correctly with staples the first time.

Screws

Decorative screws are often used by beginners because they are easier to use than a mounting gun and clamps. They do not violate the overall visual concept because they are not very noticeable. In general, this option is more preferable than fastening with screws, precisely because of its aesthetic appeal.

Self-tapping screws

One of the easiest ways to fix the lining both on the ceiling and on the walls. The nuance is that the screws need to be screwed in diagonally so that they grip the tenon in the groove. It is difficult to recess the cap in the future so that the surface of the lining is smooth.

In this method, nails are used along with self-tapping screws. Try to secure it first with both, and then decide which is easier for you.

Calculation of material quantity

For example, let's take small room, the lengths of the walls are 2 m and 3 m, and the height is 2.7 m.

Wall areas. To do this, we multiply each length in turn by the height: 2 * 2.7 = 5.4 square meters. m. and 3*2.7=8.1 sq. m.
Total area. To do this, you need to sum up the obtained values and multiply by 2 (after all, there are 4 walls in the room): 8.1 + 5.4 = 13.5 square meters. m.
Door area and window openings. Let's assume that the room has a window 1x1 m and a door 0.7x2 m. Then their areas will be equal to 1 square. m. and 1.4 sq. m. respectively.
The area covered by the clapboard. This area without openings: 13.5-1-1.4 = 11.1 sq. m.
Lamel area. Dimensions vary, but let’s take 96x2700 mm as an example. Convert to meters - 0.096x2.7 m. The area of the lamella is 0.2592 square meters. m.
Number of slats. Now we divide the area covered by the lining by the area of the lamella: 11.1/0.2592=42.8. Rounding up, we get 43 lamellas. You should also set aside 10% for marriage.

Tools

To attach the lining you will need some tools.

As a rule, the owner already has all the equipment listed above, and there is no need to purchase anything expensive.

A laser level, which is needed to determine how smoothly you are attaching the lining. A mounting level or spirit level will also work. For vertical alignment you will need a plumb line.
An electric jigsaw or hacksaw is designed for sawing parts of the sheathing and the lining itself.
Depending on how you will fasten the paneling, you will need a hammer (if fastening with nails or clamps), a screwdriver (if fastening with self-tapping screws), an electric stapler or a staple gun (if you plan to fasten with staples).
Hammer and drill for holes in the base. Depending on what the walls are made of (stone or wood), choose the appropriate tool.

Installation methods

The lining can be fastened in two main ways: vertical and horizontal. Preparatory work for both methods will be almost identical.

Preparatory work

First, you need to prepare the lining, if this was not done at the factory. Treat it with an antiseptic, cover it with paint or stain. Dry the material thoroughly.

Cladding with clapboard is always carried out on a sheathing, which is made of slats, the fastening step between which is 50 cm.

For the finish to look attractive, it must be properly secured.

When considering the question of how to attach lining to a wall, most reviews recommend only one option for carrying out the work. We will analyze as many as 3 methods; you need to choose the one that is best suited to your conditions and will ensure maximum reliability. After reading this review, you will understand all the nuances and easily complete the work on your own.

Mounting methods

We will look at how to properly secure the lining to wooden frame different ways. Each of them has its pros and cons, so please read all the information below carefully.

Option 1 - using finishing nails

This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades; for this work we will need special nails with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nail fits into the bar; most often, products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the most cheap way fastenings

Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:

The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides; in this case, the nail is driven in at an angle of 45 degrees and covered with the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;

You can also fix elements through a tenon; below we show how to properly fasten the lining with nails in this case. Here the nail is also covered by the next element, ensuring the perfect appearance of the finish;

Having chosen the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements to the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for deformations of the material due to temperature changes;
The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top; anyway, the corner is covered with a plinth or other decorative element. On the other side, a nail is driven into the tenon or groove; this is done very carefully so as not to split the material or damage it. This way you can finish walls and ceilings quickly and reliably.

Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.

Option 2 – use of clamps

It is impossible to discuss the question of how to fasten a wooden paneling without mentioning the clamps, which are special staples that are placed on the tenon of the elements and secured with nails. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and imitation timber - No. 5. The products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack; carnations are included.

Instructions for doing the work yourself include the following steps:

First, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each edge of the frame, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
The location of the clamps when the elements are arranged vertically does not matter, but if the finishing is located horizontally, then they should be at the bottom;

The working process is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which clamps are placed and secured with small nails. To make it easier to hammer them in, use a spacer.

Advice! If you want to ensure higher fastening strength, then instead of nails you can use self-tapping screws for fastening clamps; the 3x20 mm option is best suited.

Option 3 - use self-tapping screws

If you are thinking about how to fix the lining to the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is fraught with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.

The workflow in this case looks like this:

In the groove connection of the lining, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees with a 3 mm thick drill;
The element is attached to the sheathing, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the cap should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the joining, but at the same time you should not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.

The question is often asked about what to attach PVC lining to; in this case, all of the above options are suitable. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.

The lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, exterior and external cladding walls and even door trim. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining yourself. Study the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally treat the panels with stain or paint them in the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave it for a day. The wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of further deformation.

Second step

Mount the sheathing on the surface to be finished. Buy slats or make them yourself from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Attach the sheathing elements in increments 10-20 mm smaller than the width of the future insulation. Fix it using screws or self-tapping screws. The fastening spacing is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame using special tools.

Third step

Cover the sheathing with waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened with a construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, the optimal material is mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover with a thermal insulation layer vapor barrier material(attach to the sheathing with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach to wooden sheathing for insulation, a second sheathing, intended directly for fixing the lining.

Attach beams or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of attaching the sheathing (horizontally or vertically) needs to be determined for yourself even before attaching the first sheathing.

Treat the sheathing elements with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fastening the boards, and different fasteners can be used to mount the panels. Read the information provided and start finishing.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has tongues and grooves that allow each subsequent cladding board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

As already noted, choose the fastening method at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality as possible, and that the lining itself remains without damage. Sink the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. This way the nails will be almost invisible.

Clippers are perfect for high-quality fixation of boards. Select the appropriate type of fastener in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the clamp there are teeth - with them the fastener cuts into the grooves finishing material. On the other hand, the clamp must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, the set with clamps initially includes nails.

An option for fastening the lining is also available, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case, a mounting gun is used. The bracket shoots a groove in the board and secures it to the frame. To perform such installation you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the battens are installed, the necessary insulating materials laid, installation method selected. Now all that remains is to attach the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal decoration allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.