How to lay tiles: the importance of proper preparation of the base. Preparing walls for laying tiles

A better finishing material than ceramic tiles has not yet been invented for the bathroom and toilet. It is resistant to moisture, mechanical damage, and aggressive cleaning agents. The range of modern ceramic tiles is so diverse that design options for a bathroom can be thought of almost endlessly.

Once you figure out how to lay tiles on a wall, even a novice can complete a bathroom remodel. However, this is a labor-intensive task that requires careful preparation and strict adherence to work technology.

Rules and subtleties of choosing tiles

First you should think about the design of the bathroom decoration. Ceramic tiles differ in a number of indicators:

• configurations;
• size;
• color;
• texture;
• thickness, etc.

A very important point is the materials used to make ceramics. In particular those additives or latest technologies manufacturing that imparts strength, quality of surface texture, color, shine or dullness, and other evaluative indicators.

The table shows the main indicators of ceramic tiles produced by manufacturers

The simplest option is finishing with tiles of the same color and configuration. Even in this case, you can vary the order of laying individual ceramic elements to achieve a specific pattern. But this simple option is almost never used today.

Designers combine various elements in the most in various ways to give the room a unique style.

One of the options for effectively decorating bathroom walls using ceramic tiles, which simultaneously serve as a frame for a large mirror

There are almost no strict rules regarding the combination of individual tile elements; the main thing is that the design of the wall decoration is designed with taste. Often the walls are decorated with light tiles at the top and dark tiles at the bottom, separating the color transition boundary with a special border.

A non-trivial finishing option: large light elements separated by narrow strips of bright rectangular tiles laid vertically.

This finish looks impressive in small spaces. pay attention to different variants laying tiles in the bathroom

A plain tile canvas looks attractive when elements of the same color but different sizes form a geometric pattern. Typically, elements of two to four types with sizes that are multiples of each other are used for this.

To decorate the bathroom, you can use a ready-made mosaic panel or sets of ceramic tiles, which, when laid according to a pattern, form a specially designed image. When using tiles different color and size, it is recommended to choose elements of the same thickness, otherwise the laid tiles will look sloppy.

The order of laying individual elements into a single tile canvas may be different. Among the most popular options are:

• classical, the so-called straight joint, in which the tiles are laid end-to-end to each other, forming long and straight tile joints;
• staggered (with offset), when in even and odd rows the elements are offset relative to each other, imitating a pattern brickwork;
• diamond, when using square elements rotated 90 degrees, the result is beautiful diagonal seams;
• at an angle or diagonally– variations of diamond laying for square tiles.

Of course, every master has every right to bring any tile fantasy to life. Elements correct geometric shape You can combine them however you like, as long as it’s technically possible and doesn’t go beyond your budget.

Preparing the premises, tools, materials

First, it is necessary to dismantle the layer of old finishing, as well as remove all plumbing fixtures and furniture that may interfere with the laying of the tiles. If you need to leave furniture, a bathtub or other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom during work, it should be covered with some kind of shock-absorbing material to prevent damage from accidental falling of tiles or tools.

The base for laying tiles must be perfectly level and clean. First, it is recommended to eliminate all cracks, chips and other irregularities that need repair. Then the walls are usually leveled with a layer of plaster, checking the result of the work with a building level.

However, if the difference in certain sections of the wall is more than 50 mm, it makes sense to use plasterboard boards for the walls.

There is no such thing as too much primer (adhesive base)! This is the motto of the tilers

Of course, only moisture-resistant drywall should be used for the bathroom. The surface of the plasterboard walls is also carefully leveled.

To calculate the number of tiles, you need to measure the length and width of the walls. Add one more to the footage of the wall surface square meter or a little more. It should be remembered that some elements may break, some elements will have to be cut. In the same way, other decorative elements are taken into account: borders, panels, mosaics, etc.

It is better to immediately buy the required number of tiles, making sure that all packages are from the same batch. There are cases when individual tiles from different batches with absolutely identical characteristics still differ slightly in color intensity. But elements from the same batch are usually completely identical.

Tile adhesive can be purchased as needed. Before starting work, you should carefully study the instructions for use of the composition and strictly follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. An important indicator is the lifetime of the finished composition. You should not prepare glue for future use, since it must be used in a fairly short period of time.

In addition to tiles and glue, you will need a number of materials and tools:

• waterproofing and primer mixtures;
• composition for grouting joints;
• drill with special nozzle for mixing glue;
• convenient bucket for preparing adhesive;
• building level;
• spatulas;
• sponge;
• tile cutter;
• corundum block;
• roller for priming work;
• metallic profile;
• plastic cross-shaped clamps.

All tools and consumables can now be purchased in one specialized hardware store according to the list

Experienced tilers can cut tiles with a regular grinder, but beginners are still recommended to use a tile cutter. For home use exist inexpensive models this tool. It may take a little practice.

The cut edge of the tile is polished with a corundum stone. If you need to make round holes in the tiles, it is recommended to use a drill with a special attachment called a “ballerina”.

In addition, holes in the tiles can be cut with special tile nippers, which will carefully break off unnecessary pieces. To properly lay the first row, a metal profile is sometimes used for support.

Tile cutter is handy tool, which allows you to carefully cut the tiles along a straight line. To create round holes, use special pliers or a ballerina drill attachment.

Different spatulas are used to apply different compositions. Tile adhesive is usually applied with a special notched trowel; the size of the teeth depends on the size of the element. This spatula allows you to apply the glue more evenly, reduce the consumption of the composition, and reduce the amount of excess.

Plastic crosses are indispensable for forming a perfectly even seam between tiles. Excess glue protruding between the seams should be immediately removed with a sponge, preventing it from drying out.

Using plastic cross-shaped clamps, you can easily ensure a uniform tile joint width when laying ceramic tiles

The walls of the prepared room are treated with a primer, then applied coating waterproofing, usually in two layers. The primer layer and each waterproofing layer should be given the necessary drying time, taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations. Failure to comply with this rule can significantly worsen the adhesion of the tiles to the wall.

Step-by-step technology of work

The process of laying tiles on the wall is simple and time-tested. Some instructions on how to properly lay tiles on a wall instruct you to lay the elements from the top edge of the wall to the bottom. In practice, tiles are usually laid from the bottom, since it is more convenient. An important condition: constantly check the arrangement of elements horizontally and vertically.

First, it is recommended to lay the bottom row of tiles without glue, i.e. just put tiles along the walls. It will immediately become obvious whether the tile needs to be cut and where exactly to place the incomplete elements so as not to spoil the design.

If there is a space of more than 25 mm between two adjacent tiles, a different laying pattern should be used.

Typically, attempts to adjust the arrangement of elements to such a large gap are not successful. It is easier to trim the tile from which the row begins.

After this, on the wall with chalk or a pencil you should mark the place of the beginning and end of the row, i.e. first and last tiles. Beat off the first row using a horizontal level. To do this, draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the wall along the entire width of the wall.

If you correctly draw such a line along the four walls of the room, its beginning and end should coincide. The absence of such a match means that the marking was done incorrectly and needs to be redone.

Before laying ceramic tiles on the wall, you should apply the markings necessary for the work using chalk, pencil or marker

Then, using a plumb line, you need to draw vertical lines. During the installation process, the vertical and horizontal positions of the laid rows of tiles should be constantly monitored to avoid mistakes.

Even a small deviation unnoticed at the beginning can subsequently lead to a noticeable distortion, and the entire work will have to be redone. Another important point when marking: the joints of the base plates. The tile seam should not coincide with them.

A laser level can make quality control during ceramic tile installations much easier, but a regular level and plumb line will work just as well.

To facilitate the installation process, work is performed in small sections. It is recommended to mark with horizontal lines the junction of each four rows of tiles. Having selected a small area, apply pre-prepared tile adhesive to it using a notched trowel, and lay the tiles on top. Then check the quality of work using a level and plumb line.

Typically, tile adhesive is applied to a small section of the wall, and then tiles are laid on it in accordance with a pre-drawn diagram

If distortions are found, the work is redone. After this, the next section is laid, checked, etc. To ensure that the distance between the tiles is the same, locking crosses are installed at the corners of each element.

It is very important that the tile adhesive evenly fills the entire space under the tile. Voids can be identified by gentle tapping.

The process of laying tiles on the wall is presented in detail in the following video:

Experienced craftsmen sometimes put glue not on the wall, but directly on the tiles. This method also has every right to exist. It is believed that the surface of the tile in contact with the adhesive may dry it out a little.

It is recommended to wet the tile surface with water before laying to prevent the adhesive from drying out and maintain the recommended humidity. If adhesive protrudes between tile joints, it must be removed immediately using a damp cloth or sponge. Dried tile adhesive is more difficult to remove and can ruin the entire job.

Instead of special tile adhesive, in order to save money, you can use cement mortar, but in this case some problems may arise. To begin with, it will be difficult for novice tilers to prepare the correct cement mortar. In addition, working with such a composition requires some skill.

With modern technologies, it is quite possible to obtain a composition with specified properties: hardening time, how firmly it adheres, particle size, how long it will last, etc.

Currently even experienced craftsmen prefer reliable adhesives to cement mortar. When studying the manufacturer's instructions for tile adhesive, you should take into account the recommendations on the tools that need to be used to apply it. The default setting is a notched trowel. Here are some more tips for working with tile adhesive:

• the consistency of tile adhesive for walls should not be too thick and not too liquid;
• when laying ceramic tiles on the wall, you should choose an adhesive with a shorter setting time in order to avoid accidental deformation of the position of the already laid tile;
• When pressing the element to the layer of glue laid on the wall, moderate force should be applied so as not to damage the tile and not to squeeze out an excessively large amount of glue from under it;
• If some of the glue that has come to the surface has dried out, use a plastic or wooden spatula to remove the excess, but not a metal one, which can scratch the tile.

If you need to make an even cut on the tile, it is best to use a tile cutter. You should make notches on the front side of the element, and then quickly move the cutting edge of the tile cutter in the right place several times. After this, the tile easily falls apart along the cut line.

A way to cut tiles without a tile cutter is presented in this video:

After laying the tiles is completed, it begins The final stage finishing works- grouting joints. For grouting, a special grouting compound is used, which must be selected correctly in color. You can choose a grout that completely matches the color of the tiles or a composition of a darker/lighter shade.

If the grout composition desired color not on sale, you can mix a darker grout with white to achieve the desired effect. Sometimes a contrasting color grout is used to make the tile joint stand out. To apply the grouting compound, use a special rubber trowel, which is moved not along or across the rows of tiles, but diagonally. After finishing the grouting work, the tiles can be washed immediately.

Grouting the seams of ceramic tiles is done using a special compound and a rubber spatula, the movements of which should be directed at an angle to the seam

Laying tiles is a labor-intensive process that requires careful attention. However, the result is a durable finish that can last flawlessly for many years.

No matter how diverse the range of available finishing materials pleases us today, ceramic tiles, although they are among the venerable “veterans” of the construction market, are by no means in a hurry to lose their leading position in popularity. It occupies a very specific “niche” - this material, thanks to its unique operational characteristics, used for external and external work, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjacent buildings and even garden design elements.

Ceramic tiles have practically no competitors in the field of finishing rooms with a pronounced high level of humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when tiling floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since with all its positive qualities it is also very affordable. And another important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to put tiles on the floor, get a little practice in your hand, and show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work yourself.

But before tackling styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its correct selection.

How to choose floor tiles

Going to the store to select and purchase required material, the apartment owner should “arm” himself with basic knowledge of what kind of tiles are usually on sale.

Choosing floor tiles based solely on their decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good showroom great help Trained sales consultants can provide advice on which tile model is intended for what purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate the icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot on their own. The most common The symbols that may appear are shown in the table:

1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of a porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. There is no point in spending money on purchasing such tiles for further flooring in a heated room.

2 – A foot on an inclined plane is a symbol of the anti-slip properties of the tile. For rooms with high humidity(bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where shoes often carry moisture from the street - a very important criterion. Often this icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For the mentioned premises optimal choice will slightly rough tiles with the specified coefficient not lower than 0.75.

3 – A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with an image of a drill) – the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength and resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for the kitchen floor - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the coating.

4 – A similar icon is always accompanied by numerical value– this is the thickness of the ceramic tile. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7–8 mm is usually purchased.

5 – Ultimate bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined based on the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better the quality of the material (for example, for porcelain stoneware this indicator is much higher than for ordinary tiles). However, the tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc.

6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, you cannot purchase it for laying on the floor.

7 – But the image of the shoe print speaks for itself - this tile is intended specifically for the floor.

8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive and abrasive loads. In accordance with international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear resistance classes:

Wear resistance class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7)	Application area
I	Such tiles are suitable for rooms with minimal load, where there is never intense movement of people (for example, a bathroom, toilet). Street shoes are not worn in such rooms, and they are not close to the exit to the street.
II	This tile is for rooms where people also wear slippers, but the intensity of traffic is somewhat higher.
III	The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens.
IV	High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with intense load - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. There is no point in using it in apartments or private houses.
V	The highest class of abrasive strength, applicable for coatings with extremely high intensity of movement of people and even some types of transport. Scope of application: train stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises, etc.

9 – This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. This material usually has a glossy glazed surface and is more suitable for installation on walls. In addition, double firing technology implies increased porosity of the ceramic, which means a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.

10 – The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type of household chemicals. The letter indicator of this material property is “AA”.

11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing tiles - there may be tiles of different shades in one box.

12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of noble metals: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).

Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example given, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, icon 14 means that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor area, and symbol 16 means that there are 24 tiles packed in the box.

Some of the specific properties of the material will be indicated by the pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21. Such ceramic tiles are intended for special operating conditions. These could be train stations And and airports, medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. There is no point in purchasing such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.

What other points should not be overlooked:

• If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
• The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, oversized tiles will not be suitable - there will be a lot of waste. And large tiles will look somewhat ridiculous in such rooms. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
• If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the product from the same batch.

This is necessary for two reasons:

— Firstly, even a completely identical model of tile, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In a store environment, it is quite possible that this will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a covering on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.

Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tiles

— Secondly, fluctuations in linear dimensions tiles It is clear that cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precision electronics. But it still remains ceramic, and small errors may occur, so calibration of finished products must be carried out. One batch should always contain tiles of the same calibration, and the difference between different batches can even be several millimeters. When laying such tiles on the floor, especially in large rooms, inconsistencies may occur that are noticeable to the naked eye.

• Be sure to check the packages for broken, cracked or chipped tiles on the surface. Sellers may convince you that marriage is an inevitable phenomenon, and you need to come to terms with it. No, it’s not necessary, you pay your money for a quality product.
• It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of ​​the room. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for any annoying misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.

By the way, if you plan to lay tiles, then the reserve can even be increased slightly - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to adjust the material along the walls, there is more waste left and, in addition, there is a much higher probability of making some mistakes due to inexperience.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tile

How to lay tiles on a concrete floor

Floor covering process ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:

• Preparing the surface for installation.
• Carrying out the necessary markings, drawing up a work plan.
• Laying ceramic tiles with adhesive mortar.
• and finishing works.

Preparing the floor surface for laying tiles

The requirements for the base for laying tiles are, in principle, simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion to the adhesive composition. How is this achieved?

Since we are talking about concrete base, then first you need to make a thorough inspection of the old screed on which you plan to lay the tiles. There is no need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.

• First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are no more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, that it is stable.
• If, during a control inspection, places of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, or deep oiling are identified, it is necessary to remove them right down to the “healthy” surface, both in width and in depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of 10 - 15 mm.
• There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, or remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is cleaned off to clean concrete.
• All protrusions must be cut down - if you can sometimes look at a small depression “through your fingers”, since it will still be filled with glue during the laying process, then even the smallest bump will make even laying simply impossible.
• After this, a thorough cleaning is carried out with dust removal of the surface. In order for the repair suction to adhere well, it is necessary to prime all areas to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
• A repair composition is being prepared - it can be a “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3, but it will take quite a long time to dry.

The finished and completely cured screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Marking the floor for laying ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if their location on the floor is planned correctly. A sloppy, slanted tile can completely decorate an interior.

There are many techniques and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them in the scope of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, “classic” method requires precision and accuracy.

Starting to plan installation from the wall is very risky, since the slightest defect will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.

The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, carefully measure the distance between opposite walls and mark the midpoints. They are connected by a straight line (usually this is done using a coated cord), and a longitudinal baseline is obtained.

Now you need to draw a second one, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that strict perpendicularity is maintained. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous “Egyptian triangle”: 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, it is a triangle with legs divisible by 3 and 4 and a hypotenuse divisible by 5.

For example, we measure 900 and 1200 mm from the intersection point of the legs. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.

Once the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start the layout. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for starting masonry - it will not be difficult to carry out a parallel transfer from them in any direction.

For example, if the entrance door in a spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles - along the laid reference lines. The principle is this: so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts or adjustments. (see item “a” in the figure).

But in a room with a small area, with the exit shifted to the edge (position “b”), and even possibly having complex shape or stationary obstacles, the start of masonry can be smestyle to a free “patch” - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it is the entrance that will turn out to be the “front door”.

In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out a control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles “dry”, without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.

Do not neglect the initial “dry” laying of the tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location

This simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, settle on one of the principles:

1 – in small room, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the “starting line”, provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with intact tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing equipment.

2 – the laying is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow areas for addition with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave areas no narrower than ⅓ of the width of the tiles near the walls.

3 – the arrangement with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with expanded fragments along the walls (blue arrows) looks a little more impressive. This coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view it is more reliable than No. 2.

4 – laying diagonally – will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex design, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.

If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will be followed work is being carried out– from the far corner to the entrance, or with dividing the space into several areas in straight rows, followed by filling them.

You can also “fill” space in different ways. So, some masters do the styling in an orderly manner. Others prefer the “ladder” scheme with a sequential increase in the number of simultaneously laid rows.

“Filling” the space can be done linearly, or, as shown in the figure, in steps

By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor “at random” or even chaotically - sometimes this is included in the design intent of the room decoration. But in an ordinary home, they still prefer to limit themselves to a straight laying pattern, “seam to seam”.

Laying tiles on the floor

• So, we prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation.

— For work you will need spatulas, ordinary, with a width of 100 to 250 mm, and serrated ones, with a height of the created furrow of 8–10 mm. To grout joints, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.

— You will need a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment for mixing tiles and an appropriate container for the same purposes.

— Always have a building level at hand.

— In some cases, you may need to use force to get the tiles into place. It is convenient to use a rubber hammer for this purpose.

— You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).

— It is necessary to create a supply of calibration crosses of the required thickness, plastic wedges for leveling the height.

— In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags and a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.

• Probably, nowadays no one thinks about making tile adhesive on their own - it can always be purchased in the store. When choosing, you need to check the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual ones, intended for most interior spaces, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for outdoor use, particularly resistant or for so-called “complex surfaces”, for “warm floor” systems, etc.

The glue is diluted by gradually adding the dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring using a mixer or drill. The composition should be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a fairly dense consistency - so that the ridges created with a notched spatula do not spread.

After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2-3 minutes - and you can begin laying.

You should not prepare too much mortar at once, especially if you have no experience in laying ceramic tiles. Its “life” is limited - this is necessarily indicated in its instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during work, you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water a second time - it will lose its qualities.

• Novice craftsmen, apparently having listened to old, irrelevant advice or read about it somewhere, soak the tiles in water before laying them on the floor. In this way they are making a grave mistake.

A similar approach is possible if the tiles are laid on a regular cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And everyone is modern building mixtures– adhesives for ceramic tiles, designed for application specifically to a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce performance glue, and the tile will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.

Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for using the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.

• Where to apply the glue - on the floor or on the tiles? There is no consensus on this issue. Some people like to apply it to tiles - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.

On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately coat a significant area of ​​the floor, and then concentrate on laying out the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).

Another option is to pre-coat the floor surface with glue.

There is a third tip - coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tiles is perpendicular - this ensures that all cavities are filled and maximum adhesion is ensured.

• After coating the tile with glue, it is laid on the surface in the right place, pressed tightly to the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
• The work continues in the same order, with the obligatory installation of calibration crosses - they will allow you to clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.

When adjusting each tile, be sure to check its horizontalness using a building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing a solution, inserting a small wedge, etc.

• It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the gap between the tiles - this space will be needed to fill the seams. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together with that, you should immediately remove mortar stains from the front surface of the tile with a rag or sponge, without allowing them to dry.
• Spacer crosses are left between the tiles until the mortar initially sets. Then, when the tile has already become immobile, the crosses need to be removed - you cannot leave them in the seams until the glue has completely hardened, since then there will be difficulties with removal.

Video: visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor

• Modern devices for quickly laying tiles - the so-called leveling systems - are very convenient to use. The kit includes rack clamps (disposable items) and wedges (can be reused).

— After the first tile is laid on the glue, pressed well and inserted level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides so that their heel goes under the tile. The thickness of the clamp leg will determine the size of the seam. The clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.

Clamp stands installed...

Then the next tile is laid. The wide heel of the clamp also appears underneath it.

...then the next tile is laid...

A wedge is inserted and threaded as far as possible into the clamp, where it is fixed with its ribbed surface on the hooks. It is very important that the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.

... the wedges are inserted until they stop and are completely fixed.

— Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge “pulls” the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one can cancel control using a level.

— The wedges should remain in this position until the glue dries completely. Then they are removed with light side blows using a rubber hammer. The design of polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile loads, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.

— Wedges, as already mentioned, can continue to be used, and broken holds can be disposed of.

Video: laying tiles using a tile leveling system

Tile cutting

Previously, we were talking exclusively about laying entire tiles, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.

• It is recommended to install the fragments not immediately, but a day later after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will have set well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
• When marking tiles for cutting positions, we must not forget about the joint interval - an allowance must be made for it.
• There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:

1. The most convenient way is to use a tile cutter, a tabletop tool that gives an even and precise cut. It is enough to place the tile with a marking line along the central protrusion, move the roller away from you with force along the surface of the tile, and then, resting your paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.

The most convenient tool is a tile cutter

With even a little experience of the master, there are practically no defects in such cutting.

2. A manual tile cutter is a fairly convenient tool, but it requires more dexterity from the worker.

First, the roller is drawn along the intended risk line. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Movement with your hands - and the tile should split into two parts.

Cutting is carried out in the same way using a regular glass cutter, with the only difference being that the breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a glass placed on the bottom of the workbench along the line. cutting metal rod (nail or wire).

With all the advantages of manual and tabletop tile cutters, they allow you to cut tiles exclusively in a straight line.

3. Sander with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure reliable fixation of the tiles when working with an angle grinder so that they do not fly out or crack.

Tiles can be precisely cut to size using a diamond grinder

The tile can be cut straight through - when parts of a complex configuration are required. If straight, long sections are cut off, then the integrity of the top enamel layer can only be damaged - then it will be easy to break the tile along the intended line.

Particular attention to precautionary measures - the eyes and face must be covered with a mask, so how is it possible scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.

4. Small areas tiles can be removed using pliers.

In this case, on the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a fine mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, using pliers, they carefully break out very small fragments, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.

If necessary, any minor irregularities remaining after cutting can be removed using a block wrapped in coarse grain (80) sandpaper. If the teeth are large, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If there is a pronounced sharp edge left, then it is better to first process it with a round file.

The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.

When cutting tiles and laying their fragments, special care should be taken. Ceramics can crack not along the intended line, which means there is a high probability of getting a cut injury to your hand when pressed. In addition, the broken edges may have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should be performed only with protective gloves.

Sealing seams

After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting the joints.

• First of all, you need to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to their entire depth and width.
• Getting ready jointing solution - grout. It can be cement-based or a two-component epoxy composition.

1. IN living conditions Cement grouts are more often used (so-called class WITHG 2 according to EN 13888).

Cement grout for joints

They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically sealed dry mixtures and can have different colors - you can always choose the color that best suits the overall design. They are most often mixed with water to the desired consistency. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.

2. Recently, grouting has been rapidly gaining popularity. epoxy based(class RG according to EN 13888). These are two-component compositions that are prepared immediately before starting work on filling the seams.

The “lifetime” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions to ensure that it is used before hardening.

Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more flexible and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and in addition, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.

The only significant drawback of epoxy grouts (apart from a certain difficulty in properly preparing the working composition) is the still very high price, which greatly limits the scope of their use.

• The finished composition is scooped onto a rubber spatula or rubber float and applied with force to the seam area, usually in a direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. This trajectory will ensure the most complete and dense filling of the joint space.

• After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - this will be much more difficult to do later. Usually this is started when a white coating appears on the grout remaining on the surface of the tile - it begins to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).

To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and use it to remove the remains of the fugue. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, you must try not to touch the seams, so as not to wash out the fugu from there. The sponge should be washed thoroughly as often as possible, with constant changes of water. By the way, water plays a dual role here - it both washes away contaminants and participates in the hydration of the cement composition of the grouting material.

After 3 — After 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again using a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement deposit can be easily removed by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft rag.

After this, the ceramic tiles will already take on their “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.

Prices for grout for joints

Grout for joints

Video: option for grouting joints on a tiled floor

However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out another simple operation - coat the seams water repellent.

This is done very simply - the composition is generously applied to the seams with a thin brush. This treatment will give the fugue composition water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent dampness from accumulating in these places, and make cleaning easier.

When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can put the final order in place. You need to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-step process of laying tiles on the floor is over!

Cladding with ceramic tiles is a great way to deprive yourself for a couple of decades of the pleasure of regularly updating worn, peeling interior surfaces that have lost their visual appeal. In addition to economic priorities, finishing with tiles facilitates maintenance processes, improves aesthetic and technical qualities floors, walls, fragmentary areas. New series of ceramic tiles that imitate antique tiles, expensive types of wood, and natural minerals can replace any finishing materials. Instead, wear-resistant tiles are successfully used, which are affordable for apartment owners with any income level. Laying tiles done with your own hands will help reduce the cost of tiling by almost half.

Tile is traditionally used for finishing rooms with specific operating conditions. It is installed in utility rooms that require frequent cleaning using water and active household chemicals. Tile is used to completely or partially lay out surfaces in bathrooms; it is used to decorate hallways and kitchen areas. The material is not sensitive to aggressive environments, water, steam, or temperature fluctuations. It does not wear out and retains its color saturation throughout its entire service life.

It is pointless to convince people of the priorities of facing ceramics, because tiled finishing is found in almost every apartment. However, for owners who have never performed this work, installation seems like an extremely difficult task. The work is indeed labor-intensive and painstaking, but can be done by a novice master. The future installer just needs to familiarize himself with the technology, after which he can safely begin to implement the idea. In addition to information about the technological rules of tiling, he will need patience, tools and material to decorate his home.

Planning and calculations - a competent start to work

The first step of the performer will be to measure the area, which does not always completely coincide with the BTI data. Using a simple tape measure, you need to measure axes and diagonals, study horizontal and vertical planes, and use a triangle to check the parameters of the angles between mating surfaces in order to identify and plan the upcoming work front.

Important. According to regulatory documentation, the permissible deviation limit is 0.2% or two mm per meter of area. The angles between adjacent walls, as well as between the floor and the wall, must be strictly 90°.

Geometric parameters can be checked with the simplest device - wooden beam. To accurately identify deviations in verticals, you can use an elementary plumb line made of a rope, the length of which is equal to the distance between the ceiling and the floor, with a load attached to the end. The horizontal lines can be checked using a homemade level gauge made from two disposable medical syringes with a scale connected by a plastic hose. This device will also be needed for marking.

If deviations exceeding acceptable standards are detected, it will be necessary to level the walls with plaster, as well as level the horizontal plane with a self-leveling polymer layer or a cement-sand mixture, depending on the degree of the problems found. Often, leveling precedes the standard list of tile laying works. They should not be neglected, otherwise puddles will accumulate on the floor in the bathroom or kitchen, and collapsed segments on the walls will be “catchy” and require rework. This means that there will also be expenses for purchasing materials for leveling.

Next, a floor plan is drawn and a finishing scheme is developed, which includes only laying tiles on the floor, complete finishing of the floor and walls, or fragmentary tiling of vertical sections around the plumbing equipment, combined with the installation of floor tiles. The calculations required to purchase the material should be slightly adjusted upward, because fragile tiles can be damaged during the installation process. It is necessary to buy it immediately with a reserve, since later there may not be a similar material (the batch of goods in the store will run out or products with the same nomenclature will have a different shade).

The adhesive must be selected taking into account the conditions in which the tile will subsequently work. For the bathroom and for the kitchen “apron” you will need compositions that do not react to excess moisture after hardening. You immediately need to think about grout, which is now available on the market in different color options. A colored grout mixture can radically change the composition. If there is no need for additional effects, you need to buy regular grouting material in the quantity specified by the manufacturer.

Do not forget. To increase adhesion performance, a primer will be required, and putty will be needed to correct minor irregularities. When pouring the screed, it will be necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing, which is placed in the shape of a thicket with an approach to the walls of approximately 15 cm. If you plan to purchase rolled material for waterproofing, you will also need tape to secure the joints. It will be necessary to take into account that polyethylene or foil water-repellent material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. To even out the verticals, you will need to buy a special mesh that increases the strength of the plaster layer.

Please note. Tools you will need:

• construction mixer for mixing binders, leveling and primer compounds; instead, you can use an electric drill with an attachment;
• a notched trowel, the size of the “comb” of which depends on the size of the tile (large tiles require large teeth);
• a ten-centimeter spatula for the convenience of applying the composition to a toothed device or trowel;
• tile cutter, instead of which you can use a glass cutter;
• a small grinder if you have to cut a lot of tiles to finish a large area;
• “ballerina” equipped with a carbide tip, if the future installer has to make round holes;
• rubber spatula for applying grout.

The easiest way for a beginning craftsman would be to arrange the tile elements “seam to seam”; more complex patterns “in a run” or laying in a diagonal direction are best mastered with some experience. The presence of friezes, borders and other decorative elements you need to determine at the preliminary stage and buy the required number of shaped parts, also with a small margin.

Are you afraid of missing something when laying tiles yourself or do you have no experience in this type of work? Use our guide and follow the recommendations in the material: .

Preparing surfaces for laying tiles

An impeccably prepared surface guarantees the strength of the tile cladding and superior decorative qualities.

• All plumbing must be removed in order not to spoil it.
• Then you will need to remove the old tile, not forgetting to protect your eyes from dust with glasses and your hands with gloves. Layer old paint can be removed with a hammer drill with a spatula attachment.
• Tap the entire area cleared of old finishing. The peeling of the plaster and the presence of weak areas in the screed will be signaled by a dull sound, the detection of which means that it is necessary to clean the brickwork or concrete.

Alignment of vertical and horizontal planes - separate species construction and repair work, about which you should read the corresponding article. Let's assume that the walls and floor are already immaculately smooth, all that remains is to rid them of construction dirt, grease, soap solutions, prime, figure out how to lay tiles, and begin the responsible, painstaking work.

Note. The factory primer can be replaced by pure cement remaining after leveling. It needs to be diluted to a consistency equivalent to the thickness of liquid sour cream, and “thrown” onto the surface with slaps.

Before laying the tiles, the walls in a wooden house are covered with a metal mesh, for fastening which wooden slats are installed. Between the walls made of wood, layers of steam and waterproofing are laid. Plaster is applied over the mesh (with a layer of no more than 15 mm), which should not be rubbed to improve adhesion between it and the tile.

Important. Lay tiles over old tiles Not recommended. But this is possible if you need to complete the work in a short time. The installer will need to buy a special adhesive composition, capable of firmly holding old layer cladding with a new decorative and protective surface.

Cutting is an inevitable task when laying tiles

Without cutting, it is almost impossible to lay material elements with the given geometric parameters. It is best to use a tile cutter for this, but in the absence of one, you can get by with a glass cutter. The process is simple:

• Marking is being done; it is better to apply it with a felt-tip pen.
• The element with markings is placed on a table or a special bed.
• The intended cutting line is outlined with a hard-cutting roller.
• The cut parts are separated with a “foot” or nippers.

It is recommended not to make multiple passes with the cutting tool along the same line to avoid getting a “ragged” edge. It is advisable to stick a piece of adhesive tape on the area around the cutting line to form a high-quality cut without notching the enamel.

Useful advice. Before laying the floor tiles, you need to do a kind of “fitting” - lay out the material without gluing it, taking into account the size of the butt joints (2-4 mm). The tiles should be positioned so that the cut segments are removed from the entrance and, if possible, hidden household equipment or furniture yu.

U-shaped and T-shaped cutting areas are made with a grinder. To make rounded holes, use a ballerina attached to a drill. Trimming work must be treated with special scrupulousness and attention, carefully check the dimensions and set markings. The slightest flaw leads to damage to the material.

Another tip. An inexperienced installer will probably not be able to cut perfectly. It is recommended to hide the edge under shaped ceramic parts, under tiles laid on the adjacent surface, or under casing. If it is impossible to hide poorly cut parts, the cut can be trimmed with a file, sandpaper or a grinding stone.

Wall tiling

Experienced finishers who know how to lay tiles correctly advise beginners to start with wall cladding, since tools that have fallen on the floor, flying tiles, or spilled mortars can ruin a brand new floor covering.

• Getting started - installing horizontal guidelines, which are lighthouse tiles “planted” on alabaster. After laying the row, the guide tiles are removed, cleaned of alabaster residues and installed on a cement or adhesive base. Beacons are located at a distance not exceeding 2 m.

Note. To determine and mark the horizontal line, you can use a level and a rod, which will serve as a guide for the beginning of the first row. You can install plumb slats in the corners and stretch a cord between them.

• Laying tiles on the walls begins with the lowest row from the floor and continues upward.
• The binder composition is applied to the back surface of the tile, after which the tile is pressed with force against the wall to fix it at the designated level. The solution released when pressing around the tile must be removed.

Attention. You should not skimp on the binder. The voids under the tiles will cause the tiles to separate from the surface.

• Spacer crosses made of plastic are used to form seams. The seams do not serve a decorative function; they are needed to prevent cracking of the tiles and separation of elements during thermal expansion.
• Upon completion of the surface covering, it is carried out.

The quality of tile laying must be constantly monitored, checking the horizontal and verticality of the created surface.

The quality of tile laying must be constantly monitored by checking the location of the tiles relative to each other along the transverse and longitudinal vectors

When facing a wall adjacent to a sloping floor, the first row of masonry should be composed of solid tiles. After finishing the entire surface, the cut segments of the bottom row are laid.

When tiling a room, you cannot do without cutting the tiles. We'll tell you how to do this with a grinder and a tile cutter in a special article:.

Technology for laying ceramic tiles on the floor

To lay tiles on a horizontal surface in the simplest direct way, you need to select the position of the first row. To lay the covering in a large room, it is recommended to start from the middle; when finishing a small area, it is better to start from the second row.

• By analogy with wall cladding, beacon tiles are installed. The presence of minor irregularities on rough floor eliminated by applying an increased amount of solution.
• The binder composition (glue or cement mortar) is applied to small area approximately 70 x 70 cm, after which they are leveled with a notched spatula. To ensure uniform distribution of the adhesive composition, the spatula is held at an angle of approximately 60°.

Note. Laying floor tiles on a leveled surface can be done using bitumen mastic, simultaneously with gluing, providing waterproofing.

Large elements of the tiled covering are laid by applying the adhesive composition to the floor and to the tiles

• For elements with dimensions of 20 x 20 cm and larger, glue is applied to the subfloor and to the tiles. The tile with the mortar applied to it is laid on the floor, then tapped with a rubber mallet.
• To maintain clear dimensions of the seams, spacer crosses are inserted between the elements. The larger the tile size, the larger the joint size should be, but the limit is 4 mm.
• By using wooden block Horizontals and verticals need to be regularly monitored. A block is used to check two or three tiles in a longitudinal row, then it is installed on two or three elements from a transverse row.
• Upon completion of the work, the remaining glue or cement composition must be removed from the surface and the crosses must be “pulled out” from the seams without waiting for hardening.
• Before grouting joints, a daily break is required.

Attention. There is no need to walk on freshly laid flooring.

Special attention will need to be paid to the corners of the floor tiles. If they protrude above the plane, they need to be settled to the general level. If a protruding corner is a defect of a given element, it is better to lower it slightly below the general level.

That's all the simple technology of laying tiles, familiarization with which will certainly convince the careful contractor of real opportunities to significantly save money without resorting to the services of installers. Patience, knowledge and diligence guarantee a long service life of an excellent wear-resistant floor.

Do-it-yourself repairs have become a very popular activity today. However, just the desire to change the interior of the apartment is not enough. It must be supported by knowledge of the basic theoretical aspects this is quite a complex undertaking. Typically, renovation work begins with the bathroom and toilet. Knowing how to lay tiles on a wall correctly, you can radically change your usual appearance bathroom. Competently following all the rules for laying tile material will help save time and reduce the cost of hiring specialist firms.

How to choose the right tile?

Tile is the most common material among its analogues. The reason for this popularity lies in its availability and relatively low cost. Before you learn how to lay tiles, you need to choose them correctly.

First of all, you should pay attention to the packaging. A special sign in the form of a foot or hand will indicate which category of tile the product belongs to - floor or wall. Wear-resistant building materials are marked with a dash on the packaging, frost-resistant ones are marked with snowflakes. In addition, if you want to purchase a quality product, then pay attention to the number of stars on the box. Than them the more - the more better tiles.

In a hardware store, you will definitely see that tiles are divided into several groups:

• first class tiles - designed specifically for bathrooms;
• second class - used in cottages and country houses;
• third class products - designed for residential floors.

When choosing tiles, you should pay special attention to the color scheme. remember, that bright hues visually increase the space, dark ones do the opposite. On a matte surface, dirt is less noticeable than on a glossy surface.

Tile properties

The tile has several main characteristics that determine its purpose:

• ease of care;
• protection from moisture and pollution;
• a wide range of;
• large selection of decorative elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of tiles

The main advantage of tiles is their durability and strength. Thanks to special production technology, it is very difficult to break. The tiles are made from pressed materials, followed by firing and application of glaze, which ensures the product is waterproof and durable.

Modern painting technologies can also be attributed to the advantages of this building material. It is painted not on the surface, but in the mass. That is, if you scratch the tile, you don’t have to worry - it won’t be very noticeable.

Ceramic tiles come in a wide range - everyone can choose the color and design to suit their taste. Especially popular today are surfaces that imitate leather, glass, etc.

But, unfortunately, tiles also have disadvantages:

• The fragility of the glaze. When dropped, it can easily break off or crack.
• Due to their high strength, tiles are difficult to cut.
• When water evaporates or gets in, the glaze becomes slippery.

Preparation for installation

Before answering the question of how to lay tiles on a wall, let’s highlight another important nuance. It's about preparing for the process. To do this, you need to measure the room being repaired, namely the surface where the tiles will be located. Next, you need to schematically draw the wall being finished with all the recesses and openings, taking into account the taken dimensions. Don't forget about sockets and other elements where there will be no tiles. We calculate the required amount of building materials.

Tools for work

Before we figure out the question “how to lay tiles on a wall,” you need to prepare everything you need for finishing work. First of all, you need to buy binding material. They might be like cement mixture, and special glue. In addition, you will need grout, primer, guides, screws, trims and plastic crosses. The latter are necessary to maintain the size of the seam. Guides or special profiles will help you lay out the bottom row of tiles horizontally and evenly; trims are needed to create the correct angle.

You will also need a special set of tools:

Drill with drills and various attachments;

Tile cutter (if you don’t have a special one, you can use a grinder or glass cutter);

Sandpaper;

Several types of spatulas;

Containers for preparing glue;

Spirit level.

Wall preparation process

Any builder-finisher admits that before laying tiles on the wall, the surface needs to be prepared. After all, they are the right ones preparatory work provide long service life, attractive appearance and strong fastening of the material.

Before laying the tiles, the walls are plastered, simultaneously leveling the surfaces. Next, the walls are treated with a primer, which increases the adhesive effect of finishing materials.

In some cases, tiles can be laid over old concrete surfaces, brickwork, and moisture-resistant drywall.

Laying tiles over old tiles is not recommended. To reliably fix the cladding on the previous working surface, you need to use interlayers that increase the adhesion of materials and especially strong glue.

Basic installation steps

How to start laying tiles? The work process is as follows:

1. First, prepare the required amount of soil mixture, and then apply it to the walls. The primer for the walls of the bathroom and toilet must have water-repellent properties and contain an antiseptic.

2. A small amount of tiles for the initial rows are cut.

3. On the surface, using a level, determine the main horizontal points of the lower area to be finished. Usually they put four points in the corners and four around the perimeter.

If you are laying tiles on the wall, and there is already a covering on the floor, then it is not at all necessary to attach a profile for the bottom row. It can be rested on the floor.

Defining horizontal rows of tiles

If you have a flat floor, determining the bottom row of tiles will not be difficult. However, this is not always the case. The question immediately arises: “Where should I start laying tiles?” The fact is that often builders and finishers have to start from the second, or even the third row. This is due to this:

There are communications along the walls that need to be bypassed;

Only the walls are tiled, and the floor remains untouched; moreover, it has an uneven surface;

The planning of horizontal rows depends entirely on the number of vertical tiles. It happens that the level of the original supporting row needs to be lowered or raised to accommodate a whole tile. You need to move from top to bottom, transferring marks to the next row.

Defining vertical rows of tiles

Each builder-finisher decides independently. Some approach this process creatively, some have their own scheme of work. The main problem with laying tiles is the top rows, which have to be trimmed. And this is not always beautiful. There are several tricks that will help you avoid these troubles:

You can move all the rows and trim only the tiles in the corner so that they look symmetrical;

Reduce the size of the tile in the place where it will be least noticeable.

How to lay tiles? Step-by-step instruction

Laying the tiles should begin from the corner of the wall, which is located opposite the entrance. Next, everything needs to be done according to plan:

• Cover the back side of the tile with glue or a special product.
• Use a spatula to smooth out the glue layer so that there are no voids.
• The tile must be fixed in the corner and tapped with a rubber hammer.
• The glue that appears on the wall after pressing must be quickly removed.
• Lay tiles in the same way to the opposite corner.
• After fixing 3-4 rows, you should wait a little for the glue to set better.
• To ensure that the joints between the tiles are as smooth as possible, plastic crosses are installed. It is important to remove the crosses before the solution hardens.
• After laying, be sure to check the verticals and horizontals of the tiles. This can be done using a level and plumb lines; sometimes an ordinary block is applied to the surface of the facing products, and all the flaws become visible.
• Finally, the seams need to be filled with a sealant, after which grout should be applied.

Note to builders: before the glue completely hardens, you can adjust the position of the tiles and seams. Therefore, after laying the tiles, you need to carefully check the entire surface for defects and flaws.

This instruction is also the answer to the question of how to lay tiles on the wall in the kitchen. The principle is the same everywhere.

If you are planning to lay tiles on plasterboard surfaces, keep in mind that this can only be done after the walls have been treated with waterproofing. Before laying tiles on drywall, you need to pay special attention to the cut edges. They also need to be treated with a waterproofing mixture. You can lay tiles using a special tile adhesive using the same technology as in the bathroom.

Cost of tiles

The modern market for construction and finishing materials is huge. On store shelves you can see various variations of tiles. In addition to individual colors, textures and sizes, tiles vary in cost. The most profitable option is to purchase finishing materials of domestic or Belarusian production. The absence of customs duties and transportation costs significantly affects the price. Russian tiles can be purchased for 130 rubles/m2. Some domestic manufacturers produce facing materials on the territory of our country, but using foreign technology. Here the price is slightly higher - 350 rubles / m 2, but the lineup much wider. Plants and factories from neighboring countries occupy an honorable third place in terms of the cost of tiles. Ukrainian tile collections are presented in the price range of 400-700 rubles per sq.m. Polish, Lithuanian and Czech manufacturers are not far behind them. Price per 1 sq.m. European tiles range from 600 to 1000 rubles. Of course, the leaders in the quality of building materials are Germany and Italy. Products from German and Portuguese factories can be purchased for 1,100 rubles per 1 m2.

Manufacturers' tile collections

The variety of shapes, sizes and textures of tiles is simply amazing. Such a large number of options for finishing walls and floors allows you to realize even your most secret desires and projects. It is best to lay tiles on the wall and floor using materials from the collection of one manufacturer. Such tiles will be in harmony with each other, and you will not notice any striking contrasts.

Modern color solutions finishing materials allow you to combine the most different shades, for example, pink and blue, white and turquoise, etc. In addition, there are hundreds more options for tile laying techniques. Some people make colored inserts or borders, others study technology, how to lay mosaic tiles, etc. In general, there are a lot of ideas for changing the interior, so trust your flight of fancy, naturally, based on your physical and financial capabilities.

Tile care

Tile is a fairly unpretentious material, however, it also requires proper and constant care. Otherwise, limescale will ruin both the tiles in the kitchen (they should be laid according to the same principle as in the bathroom) and in the bathroom. The tiles should not be brought to this state; it is better to take care of the surfaces constantly.

Suitable products for cleaning surfaces lined with such products can be found at any hardware store. It is better to use a creamy or liquid composition. Powder products often scratch the surface of the tile.

To deal with rust and limescale, you can use chlorine-containing preparations. Among other things, chlorine disinfects the surface being treated.

When you need to wash the tiles, but you don’t have the opportunity to go to the store, try cleaning the tiles with window cleaner. Ammonia, which is included in its composition, will perfectly wash away dirt and give the surface shine.

This article will teach you how to properly lay tiles and care for the tiled surface. Following simple installation rules will help even a beginner change the interior of a bathroom, toilet or kitchen.

Bathroom renovations are rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if they have already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: to hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried-and-true tiler in mind and a certain amount of money (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire him. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively smooth, everything should work out without any particular difficulties. But just before laying tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

It starts, as usual, with choosing a tile. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So, let's check:

From experience, it is worth saying that ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you will be tired of running around the shops. What you shouldn’t do is buy tiles “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it? Take only what you hold in your hands.

What are the tiles placed on?

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do it this way, but it will be more difficult. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compounds; they are also called “tile adhesive” because they contain adhesive components, which is why they sometimes say that tiles are “glued” to walls. Compositions come in two types:

• in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
• in bags - dry mixtures that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixtures. If necessary, they can be used to correct an imperfect wall, making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain their plasticity longer, which allows adjustments to be made some time later. They work with mastic on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions that contain additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant ones, which will be useful if you place them in an unheated room or outside. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will prevent fungi and mold from developing, which is in demand in damp rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying tiles on the wall, a number of preparatory measures are carried out. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is extremely undesirable to skip it: not every master, let alone beginners, can lay tiles properly on uneven, unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating and anything that may fall off is removed from the walls. If there are greasy stains, remove them, or simply cut off part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden hammer, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet been blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. That’s why you do all these places yourself.

A flat plank is applied to the cleaned base and an assessment is made of how smooth or crooked the walls are. If the wall surface is very convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to a level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively flat, only indentations that are too large are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or holes) that are more than 5 mm. Protrusions need to be cut off, holes need to be filled plaster mixture, widen the cracks, moisten them and also cover them with plaster.

We prime

It is advisable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. “Betonokontakt” or another composition with similar characteristics is best suited for these purposes. It penetrates to a fairly large thickness deep into the wall, connecting all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, and tile adhesive “sticks” to it very well.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. To put it quite simply, you can lay out the first row right from the corner, following the floor line. But the first row will become level and without problems only if the floor is perfectly level, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will be trimming the tiles to somehow get vertical joints. As a result of these prunings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall, finding the “start” points.

Wall marking

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tile that have to be placed in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want all the tiles to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turns out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try laying it out from the seam, and vice versa. It should come out better.

When placing tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In the bathroom this is often the edge of the installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, arrange (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. This way you will find how to trim the tiles of the top and bottom rows.

There is another way to arrange it vertically: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be trimmed. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. This usually serves as a starting point. This is where the laying of tiles begins.

Start line

Based on the layout results, you have a line where the first row ends. It is at this height that a flat bar is nailed. Resting the tile on it, place the starting row, and all subsequent rows on it. The last row to be installed is the first row, into which the tiles will have to be cut.

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support strip, but a flat dry block can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). To lay tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten them often enough so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check that it is installed horizontally. There shouldn't be even the slightest deviation.

How to lay tiles on a wall

The technology for laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

A few nuances about the complete process. First, the outer whole tiles (those that do not need to be trimmed) are glued to the marked places on the installed plank. When laying out, you noted their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked with a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the geometry of the tile is ideal, you can also check the verticality/horizontalness along the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, using this bar, they check whether each subsequent tile is positioned correctly.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology; after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

Wall adhesive thickness

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, they may have questions about how thick the adhesive layer is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are ideal, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively flat, the “starting” layer can be 3-4 mm. Then, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. It is not always the case that glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some craftsmen apply the composition only to the wall, others - only to the tiles, some recommend dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not do this. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for novice tilers when the mortar is on both the wall and the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly flat base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

With other techniques, consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But you should definitely listen to the prescribed sizes of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are placed. Fusing pads are attached to the platform along which the cutter moves. The cutter moves with the help of a handle, ripping through the durable coating. A stop is usually installed on the same handle, with which the tiles are broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. Besides, you won’t be able to make a perfectly even cut, but it will work in case of an emergency.

If necessary, round holes are cut using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, to ensure that there is as little dust as possible, the work area is constantly watered with water. The result is a perfect hole and everything looks decent.

If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it with a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disk or rod (for some companies, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

If the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be smoothed out a little with a file or sandpaper attached to a block.

Decoration of corners

If the tiles are laid evenly, the internal corners do not raise any questions. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they are not in the way or break off the protruding parts. In general, they join neatly in the corners, and the final seam is formed using grout.

There are also profiles for internal corners. They are matched to the tone of the grout, installed in the corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, the tiles rest on them. This results in a finished fillet seam.

External corners are more difficult. If you simply join the tiles, overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly shape the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45°.

This can be done using a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work with a grinder. The first cut, at approximately the desired angle, is made with a smooth diamond disc. There should be no slits or holes in it, and the spraying should also be even.

It turns out not very smooth, and the outer edge is quite thick. But this is only preliminary processing. We bring the cut to the required parameters using a grinding attachment with the same disc. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to bother with such trimming, there is another option - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another video about how you can design junctions and seams when laying tiles.

To styling wall tiles DIY was finally clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The “start” location is determined by the height of the tabletop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Attach the bar at the required level, align it exactly with the horizon, and you are ready to begin.

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on the work wall. If it is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

If it is laid out from small-sized tiles, the undercuts may not be very noticeable. If you want to do everything symmetrically, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.