Many apartments still have old, Soviet-made furniture that has long gone out of fashion, physically and morally outdated, cluttering up the space of already very small rooms. However, at the same time, it should be noted that most often the material from which it is made has retained good quality, and it can be used for construction modern options cabinets and bookshelves.

If you remember furniture walls with numerous cabinets, drawers and cabinets, you can easily imagine how many panels different sizes can be obtained in order to make more compact, comfortable and modern pieces of furniture. How to make built-in furniture in modern design, spending a minimum of money on it, and at the same time freeing the rooms from bulky outdated structures and will be discussed further.

Advantages of built-in furniture

Before moving on to the next sections, it is advisable to understand the advantages of built-in furniture made by yourself.

• If the furniture is made from material that will be obtained as a result of dismantling old cabinets or other pieces of furniture, then you can get significant savings on the family budget.
• Everyone knows that even in panel houses the walls are often not perfectly even. Well, with the help of built-in furniture you can perfectly disguise this flaw, and, again, save on construction work to level the surfaces.
• Hosts are provided a great opportunity show your creativity when developing a project, and then reproduce your own design and engineering solution, making the most comfortable piece of furniture for use.
• Serious savings are achieved usable area rooms. Almost every apartment has areas where it is difficult to fit standard pieces of furniture, and for those items that will be made to order, you will have to pay double price. When developing your own project, you can provide for all the nuances and dimensions of the area where the cabinet or shelf will be built.
• And, of course, furniture made with your own hands will give you a reason to be justifiably proud of your amateur talents.

Materials for the manufacture of built-in furniture

In addition to chipboard panels, inherited from disassembled cabinets, other materials can be used to make pieces of furniture.

• Today, plasterboard is extremely popular, from which not only built-in wardrobes are built, but even entire walls with niches and cabinets for one or even two rooms. This material has become so widespread due to the ease of its processing and the ease of installation, which can be carried out even by novice craftsmen with no experience. Its low price and environmental friendliness are also attractive.

Try to innovate your room with drywall!

You can learn how to work correctly with this material, quickly and easily creating various structures, from a special publication on our portal dedicated to independent construction.

• Natural wood has traditionally been an excellent material for making furniture. The old masters managed to build cabinets without single nail, and some of these pieces of furniture, made at the beginning of the last century, are still in use today. Wood has many very important advantages compared to other materials - it is environmentally friendly, natural pattern and relief, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

• Plywood is another material from which built-in furniture can also be made. It is often used in combination with wood, covering frames with plywood and making panels. The manufacturing process of plywood involves the use of glue, so it cannot be called a 100% environmentally friendly material, although there are varieties with minimal, almost zero emission of phenol-containing substances.

• Chipboard is a board made from sawdust and shavings, which are mixed with glue and then pressed into a given shape. Then the slabs are given an aesthetic appearance by lamination or veneering. Such boards can be harmless to health or dangerous, depending on the glue that was used in their manufacture. Soviet furniture most often consists of slabs produced in accordance with GOST under strict control, so it can be called relatively safe compared to modern products of completely unknown origin. If furniture panels are purchased in a store, you should pay attention to the environmental safety group - E0 or E1 are required for living rooms.

• In addition to materials for making furniture, it is necessary to choose a suitable design modern fittings– handles, locks, canopies, guides, rollers, hangers, etc. There will be no problems with these furniture accessories, since today they can be found in specialized hardware stores for every need and taste.

Find out how to choose the right one from our new article.

Where can built-in furniture be installed?

Built-in furniture is an excellent way out of small-sized or one-room apartments. It can be fixed, as mentioned above, near walls that have never been used to install cabinets along them. In addition, it will fit perfectly into a wall that has a small surface area and is too small to install a standard cabinet. Such areas of rooms mainly include external walls, with window openings, and internal - with a centrally located door frame.

They usually try to cover the wall around the window with curtains, without even thinking that it can be functional - this is what the vast majority of apartment owners do. However, if a set of shelves is fixed on its surface, having a shallow depth sufficient to accommodate books, then the structure does not fit the same curtains and cornices. They can easily be fixed not only to the ceiling, but also to the panels of the upper shelves. Having installed such a structure, you can immediately see how much area of ​​the room will be freed from cabinets, and plan it for other needs.

closet

This wall of the room can only be used if it is absolutely dry, without the appearance of mold formations, otherwise the pathogenic microflora will quickly spread to the books, and its spores will hover in the air of the rooms, which is quite dangerous for human health.

Paper is an excellent insulator, and books placed on shelves close to each other will create a kind of heat-insulating barrier, so the room will become warmer.

Another common option for installing built-in wardrobes is the area of ​​​​the walls around the interior or entrance doors. By securing the furniture in this way, you can solve two problems - saving space and additional soundproofing of the room.

Calculation of dimensions and drawing up drawings

Once you have chosen the location where the cabinet or shelving will be installed, you can begin to plan the placement of shelves and doors. The process of making a sketch and drawing with exact dimensions can be done using special applications - they can be found on the Internet. If this path seems difficult, then an ordinary sheet of paper, pencil, or ruler will do.

The first calculation option will be more accurate, since the program will calculate not only all the parameters of the cabinet, but also the quantity and even the approximate cost of parts and fittings.

Video: example of designing a built-in wardrobe using a specialized application

The self-planning method helps you understand all the nuances right on the spot and makes it possible to immediately make the necessary adjustments. But you will have to work very carefully on the drawing, since everything will be made according to it. necessary details. Particular care in drawing up the diagram will be required if the parts will be made according to it to order, in a workshop.

If a piece of built-in furniture will be constructed from chipboard, plywood or solid boards of approximately the same thickness, then the drawing for them is drawn up in the same way. If plasterboard is used to make a cabinet or shelves, calculations are carried out taking into account the width metal profiles, from which the frame will be mounted, since the narrowest of them is 50 mm wide and 27 mm deep.

Find out, with illustrated instructions, from a new article on our portal.

Built-in wardrobe with rear panel

Such a cabinet can be made of chipboard, plywood or solid boards 16 mm thick. Built-in furniture is equipped with a back panel covering the wall surface, or the interior wall itself serves as it.

This cabinet model has a height of 2600 mm, a width of 2400 mm and a depth of 650 mm. This design includes a back panel, but it is quite possible to simply mount the cabinet to the wall.

Parts for assembling the cabinet

For such a cabinet you will need to make the following parts:

the name of detail	Part size, mm			Number of parts, pcs.
	Length	Width	Height
Side walls	2584	650		2
Internal vertical partitions	2568	550		2
Cabinet bottom panel	2068	650		1
Cabinet ceiling panel with rounded corner	2584	650		1
Vertical panel extending beyond the cabinet	2600	308		1
Horizontal side shelves with rounded corner	634	285		3
Drawers	2568	586	220	3
Lower horizontal shelves	650	400		1
	800	400		1
Upper horizontal shelves	650	550		1
	800	550		1
Horizontal shelves above drawers	550	586		5
Back panels are made of plywood or fiberboard (5 mm thick)	2600	665		1
	2600	816		1
	2600	610		1
Door panels	2600	694		1
	2560	669		2
Set of rollers				2 sets
Drawer guides	550			6 pairs
Shelf holders				44
Metal tubes with a diameter of 15 mm	816			1
	665			1
Drawer details:
Front and back walls	586	220		6
Side walls	518	220		6
Bottom panel (plywood or fiberboard)	586	550		3
Guides for compartment doors with two lines of runners for movement	2068	50		Set (upper and lower)

Manufacturing of parts

Manufacturing parts for any furniture design is a rather complex and labor-intensive process that requires not only high precision, a certain dexterity and increased accuracy, but also the availability of special tools for working on workpieces.

Illustration
	The first step is marking the chipboard panels, transferring the dimensions from the design drawing onto them and drawing cut lines. Next, all the cabinet parts are cut out. It should be noted that if the cutting is done with a hand hacksaw, it will require a lot of time and effort. Therefore, the work will go faster and more accurately if it is carried out using an electric circular saw or, as a last resort, a jigsaw. To ensure a smooth edge without burrs, the cut must be made with a saw with fine teeth. In addition, it is recommended to stick masking tape along the edge of the cutting line, which will protect the laminated edge from chipping. If the edges are not quite even, they need to be trimmed with a file, rasp or plane. If you need to get a perfectly smooth edge of the parts or the model has rounded corners and other pattern configurations, then it is better to contact a workshop where there is special equipment that produces precise, down to the millimeter, cutting of any shape.
	If the furniture will be made from panels obtained as a result of disassembly old wall, and the height of the panels will not be enough to build the planned project, then they will have to be increased.
	The connection of individual sheets can be done different ways- this is a “groove-tenon”, using dowels or using a special docking strip, into which two separate parts of the panel are installed on both sides with glue. The last connection method is the simplest, and is accessible even to an inexperienced craftsman.
	This cabinet model has shelves with rounded corners. To cut it beautifully, you need to draw a patterned cutting line using a construction or improvised compass. When sawing off rounded corners, use a jigsaw, being especially careful.
	The sawn parts are numbered and signed. If there is an appropriate tool, all edges of the parts are finished by milling. Then the finished parts are installed on the wall, following a certain sequence to simplify the search desired element designs.
	The outer end sides of the panels are covered with PVC edges specially designed for this purpose. The edges are secured to the end using a layer of glue applied to them, which begins to exhibit its adhesive properties after heating. To do this, the edge is placed on the end of the panel and smoothed with a heated iron. After the panels are processed and ready for assembly, the joints with other parts are marked on them, as well as the fastening of the fittings.

After all the parts have been manufactured, processed and laid out, the cabinet is assembled in accordance with the drawing.

If the cabinet or rack has a back panel that will give the product additional rigidity, then after connecting all the structural elements to it from the back side, sheets of the back wall are attached to the ends of the panels, which are most often made of fiberboard or plywood with a thickness of 3÷5 mm . If the back wall is not planned, then the cabinet frame will have to be attached to the wall.

The presented cabinet can be assembled in different ways, and which one to choose is up to the master himself. Much in this case depends on the quality of the wall. To understand how the assembly is carried out, both installation options will be considered below.

Assembling a cabinet with a back panel

Assembly of the cabinet, fastened with the rear panel, occurs in the following sequence:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step at the place where the cabinet will be located is to level its bottom part. Unfortunately, the floors are not always level, so if necessary, small wooden pads are installed at one or two corners. In this case, it is advisable to immediately secure the exposed bottom of the cabinet to the floor surface.
	You can, of course, attach adjustable legs in the corners and in the middle part of the bottom panel, but this is done if the differences in floor height are very significant. In addition, you need to take into account the height of the cabinet. If it is close to the height of the ceiling, then the legs will not be suitable for the structure, and you will have to use wooden pads. The front end side of the floor panel must be covered with PVC edge.
	Next, after marking, it is necessary to prepare holes on the vertical panels of the cabinet for installing shelf holders, if they are removable, or for furniture corners, if the shelves are permanently fixed. The latter installation method will make the structure more rigid.
	Another way to secure shelves to vertical cabinet panels is to use eccentric screws. This fastener is more accurate and almost hidden from view, but it is more difficult to drill holes for it, as it requires perfect accuracy.
	In addition, runners for drawers are attached along the drawn lines on the walls.
	If there are sockets or a switch mounted on the wall near which the cabinet will be installed, and it will cover them from the cabinet panels, then holes of the required size and shape are marked and drilled in it using a drill or jigsaw.
	The next step is installation along the lines of the vertical walls marked on the bottom panel. They will have to be temporarily supported on the sides, since they will not be supported only by the lower fastenings. To hold them in the desired vertical position, several horizontal transverse shelves should be secured without much delay. Since this design has side rounded shelves, to secure them it is necessary to connect the outermost vertical panel and the board adjacent to the wall at a right angle. The board is fixed end side to the outer side wall using eccentric screws from the rear side of the structure.
	Having fastened two vertical panels at right angles, you need to immediately install the side shelves. They are mounted on the side vertical wall of the cabinet using dowels installed with glue, and on the wall panel using confirmations (Euroscrews), which are screwed into the back side of the panel.
	Then, the top panel-roof of the cabinet is installed and secured - it is most often mounted using eccentrics. If the top panel is raised right up to the ceiling, then through it you can fix the cabinet on the ceiling.
	Another way to secure the top panel, as well as horizontal shelves on vertical partitions, can be furniture corners. After installing the top panel, all other shelves and hanging rods are secured.
	Next, three drawers are made according to the dimensions indicated in the table. For more accurate joining of the corners of the box elements, quarters can be selected along their edges. Drawers can have one front panel or two - internal and front. When installing a double front panel, the drawer handle will be held more firmly. In the lower part of the side, front and rear walls, slot-like grooves are cut into which the bottom of the box will slide.
	Therefore, the assembly proceeds as follows: - first, the front and side panels of the drawer are fastened together; - then the bottom part is pushed into their grooves; - and only after that the back panel is installed with glue, which is additionally fixed with furniture screws. It should be noted here that you can use ready-made boxes of disassembled furniture wall, replacing only the facade panel with them. In this case, when drawing up a project, it is necessary to immediately take into account all their parameters.
	The second part of the roller guide system must be secured to the side walls of the drawers using self-tapping screws.
	The guides can be attached to the bottom or middle of the side panel. In order not to be mistaken in the correct installation, you need to try on the drawers in the cabinet walls, based on the dimensions given in the drawing.
	Next, handles are selected for the drawers. For them, through holes are drilled in the centers facade panels, and then the handles are screwed from the inside of the drawer.
	The next step is to install guides for sliding doors. The presented model has three door leaves: - middle, installed on the first line of guides, and having the ability to move to any side of the cabinet; - two side doors, each of which, when opened, can reach the other along the second line of guides.
	According to the markings, the upper rail is fixed for the movement of the sashes on ceiling panel cabinet, and then the bottom rail, onto the floor panel. Next, spring rollers are attached to the doors, allowing you to easily install the doors into the fixed guide rails.

If desired or necessary, the structure can be fixed not only to the floor and ceiling, but also to the wall through the adjacent side panel of the cabinet from inside the structure.

The installation of compartment doors was mentioned in passing. But this is extremely important point, which requires comprehensive consideration. It is simply more expedient to refer the reader to detailed specialized instructions.

How to assemble and install wardrobe doors yourself?

Special components are sold in stores for such furniture elements. Very detailed illustrated instructions for self-assembly and adjustment are in a special publication on our portal.

Built-in wardrobe mounted directly to the wall

This section of the article will look at ways to attach the same cabinet (or any other) to the wall, without using the back panel. As mentioned above, this option is perfect for hiding uneven walls in a room.

Parts for cabinets are manufactured and processed in the same way as in the previous version or when choosing a different model. Their list and dimensions also remain unchanged, with the exception of the rear panel.

You can add to the list of materials with metal corners, with the help of which the walls of the cabinet will be fixed to the wall, or with timber, which can replace the corners and act as a wall frame. It should be noted that if the cabinet shelves are open, then it is better to use metal corners or a profile for fastening - these elements look more aesthetically pleasing than timber.

To understand how such installation is carried out, you need to consider its options in more detail.

The first option is a prefabricated panel structure

This cabinet can be either open or closed with sliding doors. In this case, the shelves are installed using metal corners. Work on its installation occurs in the following order:

• The first step is to draw up a design for a closet with the compartments that will be needed - these could be shelves for books, a wardrobe compartment or drawers intended for other needs. In the project, real dimensions are taken on a smaller scale - this is necessary in order not to make a mistake in the width or height of the location of certain parts. Moreover, it is better to make two copies of the project - on one of them put down the dimensions of the location of the parts on the wall, and on the other - the parameters of the structural elements themselves.
• Next, from a copy of the project, which shows how and where the vertical walls, as well as the top and bottom panels (if provided), will be primarily fixed, the places of their fixation are transferred to the wall. They must be determined by drawing precise vertical lines - along a plumb line.
• The first to be fixed to the floor is the floor panel of the cabinet, onto which vertical partitions can be fixed.
• Then, in the places of the drawn lines, the verticality of the wall plane is determined. To do this you need to prepare perfectly flat timber with a cross-sectional size of approximately 50×50 mm and a length almost equal to the height of the ceiling of the room, and a building level, or a level with a length of at least 2500 mm.

A level is placed on the wall at the indicated location, and with the help of it the difference in surface differences is determined. If it is about 3 mm, then this will not greatly affect the installation of the panels - even if a small gap is formed, then with the built-in version of the cabinet it will be almost invisible.

• In the case where the wall even visually looks uneven, there are two options to hide this flaw - level the wall with plaster or drywall, or fit the furniture panels of the side walls to the wall. The adjustment will have to be carried out gradually, cutting off the part from the panel that prevents it from completely pressing against the wall. Therefore, the side that will be adjacent to the wall will become uneven, but the front edge will be perfectly level.
• If the cabinet is mounted between two walls, then it is quite possible to completely abandon the outer vertical panels, installing only internal partitions.
• When the vertical panels are fitted to the wall, they should be immediately secured to their intended places so that you can begin marking the horizontal shelves, ceiling and floor front strips. To fix the vertical panels, metal corners are screwed onto them in three or four places on both sides. Then, the panel is leveled in relation to the walls, and on them, through holes in the corners, places are marked for drilling holes into which the dowel will be driven in and fasteners screwed in.
• Further, if you plan to install it on a built-in cabinet, then bars or strips parallel to each other are marked and secured on the ceiling and floor or bottom panel, determining the width of the internal space and intended for securing guide rails for moving the sashes.

• The next step, between the vertical internal partitions and walls, according to the drawing, the location of horizontal shelves is marked. Just like in the previous version of the cabinet, they are attached to furniture corners to vertical panels and walls. Horizontal shelves will connect the entire structure, secure it to the walls and give it rigidity.

• Next, rods for hangers and runners for drawers, if provided, are installed; the drawers themselves are made according to the dimensions of the project and installed in place.
• The final stage is the assembly and installation of sliding doors.

The second option is with a timber frame

This design is most often used to build a built-in wardrobe, since it is the easiest to work with.

aluminum profile

To build it, first a frame is mounted from a wooden beam according to markings on the wall, which immediately determines the dimensions of the cabinet, that is, its height, width and depth. When these values ​​are known, it is easier to carry out the further process of securing the remaining elements of the cabinet and covering it with one of the selected materials.

Lasting wooden frame can be covered not only with chipboard, but also with plywood, wooden or laminated fibreboard, as well as PVC panels- this criterion is chosen by the home craftsman himself, taking into account financial capabilities, design ideas and level of experience in working with a particular material.

On wooden beam It is much easier to attach both corners and panels, so the work after erecting the frame will go quite quickly. The marking of horizontal shelves occurs in the same way as in the previous options, and vertical partitions are usually always formed by timber. Thanks to a more durable design, such cabinets can be equipped not only with sliding doors, but also with hinged ones - in some cases, the second option is preferable to the first.

The third option is with aluminum profiles

It is also quite possible to install a built-in wardrobe using this technology yourself, if you can produce all the necessary parts for the structure. An important condition when choosing the presented option for building a cabinet is that it can only be installed between two walls, that is, in sufficient space narrow room, but across its entire width.

With this approach, to attach the panels to the wall, an aluminum U-shaped profile is used, which has a clearance width between the shelves that is 1÷2 mm greater than the thickness of the chipboard panels from which all other cabinet elements are made. In the presented model, the profile width is 16 mm, with a panel thickness of 15 mm.

The panels are neatly installed into the profile, and often do not require additional fastening at all. In those places where the shelves will bear a higher load, the bottom profile is additionally reinforced with a small chipboard panel.

Work on installing the cabinet occurs in the same sequence as when starting the assembly of any structure attached to the wall:

• Drawing up a project.
• Manufacturing of cabinet parts.
• Marking the wall surface using a plumb line, level, ruler and tape measure.
• Fastening to the wall according to the markings of the metal profile.
• Laying and fixing the floor panel and screwing profiles to it for installing vertical panels.
• Installation of vertical partitions - they are pushed into a profile mounted on the wall and on the floor panel.
• Next, the upper horizontal panel is tried on, and the location of the vertical partitions is marked on it. Then, it is removed, and profiles are also screwed to it, which will hold the partitions in their upper part. After this, the top panel is finally installed.

• Then, all other horizontal shelves are mounted in the same way. They are installed in profiles that are fixed to the wall and to vertical panels. When the horizontal shelves are secured, the structure will become more rigid and durable.
• If the project includes the installation of drawers, then they must be installed between two chipboard panels, since without support on both sides they may not withstand the load. Therefore, this must be taken into account when designing.

• In the example under consideration, the structures are planned, therefore, for them, double-slide guides are fixed to the ceiling and bottom of the cabinet to move them, since both doors must move in one direction or the other.
• The last step is to install the movable door leaves and test them.

At the end of the publication - one more clear example high-quality built-in wardrobe assembly:

Video: assembly of a built-in wardrobe without a back wall

So, if there is necessary tools Assembling built-in furniture with your own hands is a completely doable task. Much more difficult seems to be the high-quality production of all structural parts. It is best to carry out this process with professional tools, which are not found in every home. Therefore, having completed and thoroughly checked the drawing, having all the necessary materials, it is better to order their cutting and processing in a carpentry workshop - it will be much faster and more accurate. And with high-quality, well-fitted parts, the installation process becomes a real pleasure.

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How to make a cabinet with your own hands: drawings, description, step-by-step instructions

How to save money free space in room? To do this you need to install a built-in wardrobe. I suggest simple instructions assembling a wardrobe at home. By following the suggested recommendations, you will make furniture that will not be inferior in build quality to what professional installers make.

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe at home

Making a standard wardrobe yourself from scratch will be difficult and expensive. It is much easier and more efficient to develop a furniture drawing, order the production of structural elements and assemble a cabinet with your own hands from a ready-made kit.

The lifespan of a cabinet is largely determined by the quality of the fittings used, so we don’t save when choosing hanging mechanisms for doors.

Step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step instructions consist of the following steps:

• Room measurements.
• Project development and ordering a set of cabinet furniture.
• Assembling the body frame.
• Installation of filling.
• Installation of door fittings and sashes.
• Installation decorative elements and lighting if provided for by the design.

Let's consider the listed stages in more detail.

Deciding on the type

Illustrations	Types of sliding wardrobes by type of location
	Built-in. Furniture of this type is installed in a niche or between two walls.
	Wall mounted. This is a more common type of furniture that is assembled and installed along the wall, while the sides of the cabinet are not hidden and are visible.

Illustrations	Cabinet Configuration
	Straight. The leading edge of such furniture is a straight line.
	Angular. This category includes double cabinets, where the sections are located at right angles to each other.
	Radial. In such cabinets, the front edge is curved forward or, on the contrary, concave.

Illustrations	Structural device
	Frame. The cabinet design is based on a supporting frame, consisting of an upper and lower part, as well as two sidewalls. The rear wall is attached to the inside of the frame - a reinforcing element made of fiberboard slabs.
	Frameless. This category of furniture consists of door fittings, doors and filling. There is no supporting frame or back wall in such structures.

Materials

Illustrations	Materials for making your own wardrobe
	Furniture panels. Wooden shield- this is a board made of lamellas. From furniture board facades for expensive sets are manufactured. Use wood for self-assembly I do not recommend furniture, since for these purposes it is easier and cheaper to use particle boards or plywood.
	MDF. This variety particle board used primarily for the production of furniture facades. MDF boards due to its high density, it can be easily milled, and therefore doors with ornaments of complex configurations are made from this material.
	laminated chipboard. Laminated particle board is a universal, inexpensive material that is used for the manufacture of furniture frames, sliding doors and filling.
	Fiberboard. Due to its small thickness, this material has low bending rigidity and is therefore used only for padding on the back wall of the cabinet.
	Drywall. Used for assembling built-in furniture wall plasterboard, body elements and filling are made from it.

Room measurements and calculations

Before ordering a set of cabinet furniture, we take measurements of the room near the wall where the wardrobe will be assembled and installed.

When taking measurements for built-in frameless furniture, we measure the perimeter of the niche or the distance between opposite walls and the height from floor to ceiling. That is, we need to find out the dimensions of the opening into which the guide profiles for fastening the doors will be installed.

Advice. If there are sockets or switches in the niche, this is not a problem, since there is no back wall in the frameless cabinet

For wall-mounted frame cabinets, measure the wall along which the furniture will be assembled and installed. It is important that there is a gap of at least 5 cm to the side walls, and 10 cm to the ceiling.

Walls in old apartments may be uneven and therefore, for greater accuracy, measurements are taken at several points at once. The resulting numbers are compared and the lowest values ​​are selected for the drawing.

Horizontal measurements are taken at the floor, at the ceiling and in the middle of the room. Also in two three different points measure the distance from floor to ceiling.

Drawings with description

After the measurements have been taken, you need to select a suitable drawing and complete the detailing of the furniture.

After a drawing has been selected and materials have been selected, we order cutting of cabinet furniture elements for assembly. I recommend ordering the cutting of structural elements not from handicraft specialists, but from furniture factories.

Installation work

The cabinet is assembled on a pre-prepared floor. To avoid damaging the floor covering, lay down pieces of cardboard.

The work begins with the installation of the body, then the filling is installed and the sashes are hung. To ensure high quality assembly, we use correctly selected fasteners.

Fastening the components

Illustrations	Elements for fastening components
	Confirmation. For most connections we use confirmats 50 mm long. We use confirmata with a length of 70 mm in especially loaded fastenings. The tool for drilling a hole for confirmation is a 4 mm drill with a cutter.
	Dowels. Depending on the workload of the connection, we use dowels with a diameter of 6, 8 and 10 mm. We use dowels for adhesive hidden connections or for connections reinforced with confirmations.
	Minifix. We use this hidden fastening for vertical connection when assembling a furniture frame. When making a horizontal connection, we supplement the minifixes with dowels.
	Rafix. This is a type of minifixes that we use for hidden fastening of shelves.
	Self-tapping screws. We use 30 mm self-tapping screws as an alternative to confirmats when making unloaded connections. We use 20 mm self-tapping screws when installing the reinforcing element - the rear wall. A 16 mm self-tapping screw is a typical fastener for most operations, including installation of guides and installation of other fittings.
	Corners. We use plastic corners for lightly loaded connections, for example when installing cabinet filling.
	Shelf supports. These pins hold the shelf with one edge and enter the body wall with the other edge.

Reinforcement elements

After the body, consisting of the upper, lower and side parts, is assembled, it needs to be given sufficient strength. To do this, we attach a fiberboard wall to the back of the cabinet.

If possible, we install fiberboard in a single sheet. If this is not possible, we install wall fragments so that they compensate for the mechanical loads that fall on the furniture body. We fasten the rear wall with 20 mm self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm.

Masking the fastener heads

Stickers and plugs are used to hide the holes. Both options are produced in different colors, so you can choose a similar color and make the fasteners less noticeable.

The advantage of stickers is that they have a completely flat surface, while the plugs stick out a couple of millimeters. In addition, stickers are cheaper and come in more colors.

Geometry check

During the assembly of the furniture case and before attaching the back wall to it, we check the geometry of the structure. This is done using construction square, which is installed in the corners. All angles must be right. Similarly, we check the location of partitions and shelves in relation to the body.

Installation of doors with guides

Illustrations	Step by step instructions
	Installation of the upper profile. The profile is installed on dowels, which are screwed into the ceiling. The installation step of fastening elements is no more than 30 cm.
	Installation of the lower profile. The lower profile is installed in the same plane with the upper guides so that the subsequently installed door does not have a distortion.
	Door installation. The door is driven into the upper profile by the upper rollers, raised and driven into the lower profile by the lower rollers.
	Settings. In accordance with the design of the sliding system, the rollers are adjusted. The doors should take a vertical position, which can be checked with a spirit level.

Illustrations	Description
	The use of stained glass technology for decoration. It's not cheap, but it's aesthetically attractive and original solution. For safe operation, stained glass is not made up of individual fragments, but as a whole, with a pattern of glued stripes.
	Sandblasting patterns on mirrors. This is an aesthetically attractive and at the same time functional option. The applied pattern decorates the mirror, but does not interfere with its intended use.
	Vinyl stickers. In order not to spend money on mirror design cabinet, you can use inexpensive doors covered with vinyl film. The advantage of this solution is that you can choose any pattern and color.
	Bamboo facades. The use of bamboo in cabinet design is one of the many trends in eco-design that is fashionable today.

The problem of lack of free space is familiar to everyone. A lot of things, all of which are important and necessary from the point of view of the owners, are usually found in closets that take up a lot of space in small apartments.
Where can we find a way out of this situation? The solution is simple - install a wardrobe, and the appearance of your home will completely change. How to make, build and assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands? Do you want a built-in dressing room, hallway or bedroom? This article will help you do it yourself.

The problem of lack of free space is familiar to everyone. Where can we find a way out of this situation? The solution is simple - install a wardrobe, and the appearance of your home will completely change.

What are the benefits of built-in wardrobes (in the hallway or bedroom)?

• most often it is installed in a niche of the room, thus saving precious centimeters of living space (this is very important, especially if the apartment is small);
• due to its design, it accommodates a large number of of things. It is much more spacious than ordinary bulky cabinets;
• The main component of such a closet is sliding doors. Thanks to them, the wardrobe can stand very close to the sofa and there will never be any discomfort when opening and closing the doors;
• has a wonderful appearance. Depending on personal preference, this type furniture can be made truly unique: it is decorated with mirrors, drawings, etc.;
• often performs by zoning the area of ​​the room;
• there is no empty space between it and the wall, which is usually an additional dust collector;
• Safes, sockets and switches are often placed inside it, without spoiling the appearance of the walls of the apartment.

When deciding to have such a miracle at home, it is better to make a wardrobe yourself, because the cost of it in the store will not be affordable for everyone (from 13,000 to 300,000 rubles).

What type of wardrobe is better to choose?

Depending on the presence or absence of cabinet walls, this type of furniture has several types. Complete absence of side walls, top and bottom. They are completely replaced by the walls, floor and ceiling of the room (read how to properly plaster a ceiling). The shelves in such a cabinet are attached directly to the walls.

Let's consider features of this model:

• the costs of manufacturing such furniture are minimal, because you only need to purchase chipboard for shelves;
• have a large internal volume.

Among the disadvantages, it should only be noted that such a built-in wardrobe model is considered absolutely non-transportable. It will not be possible to move her to any other apartment.

• Partial or complete presence of walls. The total cost of such a cabinet will be slightly higher than that of the previously reviewed models. However, they have one significant advantage - the ability to transport and install in another place (sometimes used as ordinary cabinets).

All types of built-in wardrobes can have doors or be without them. It depends on the personal preferences of each individual person.

Secrets to choosing the right height and width

Width of built-in wardrobe depends on the size of the niche in which it will be located. Determining how many doors are needed (their maximum width is 90 cm), Special attention you need to pay attention to the guides along which the wheels will move. Their size does not exceed 4 m or 5 m (this depends on the manufacturer).

If the width of the recess in the wall is greater, then a chipboard partition will have to be installed between the guides. This must be done because metal joints will quickly deteriorate the condition of the door wheels.

Visually, it will never be noticeable that the cabinet consists of several parts. Everyone will close the sliding doors.

The smallest width of such furniture should not be less than 100 cm. This is explained by the fact that doors that are too narrow do not have good stability. If you still cannot do without a small wardrobe, you need to think about replacing the wheels in the guides with hinged mechanisms.

The height of the built-in wardrobe depends on whether there is a suspended ceiling in the room or not. Depending on this condition, this type of furniture has some varieties.

Height depends on the height of the niche:

• if it is small (up to 200 cm), then it will not be possible to make the furniture different;
• in the case when the height of the room is within 280 cm, then the cabinet is made up to the ceiling, because the traditional size of chipboard sheets is 278 cm;
• if you need to make the cabinet tall, then place a mezzanine on its upper part or extend the side walls of the entire structure. The mezzanine has its own doors with individual guides.
• The maximum height should not exceed 4 m.

In addition, the height of the built-in wardrobe depends on whether or not there is a suspended ceiling in the room (read how to wash a stretch ceiling without streaks). Depending on this condition, this type of furniture has several varieties:

• if the cabinet has a wooden top cover that is not screwed to the ceiling and the distance between them is within a few centimeters, the product is made up to the ceiling;
• in some cases, the top furniture rail can be mounted directly to the ceiling. This can be done if before installation stretch ceiling Screw a wooden beam onto the concrete base. The cabinet guide is screwed directly to it with self-tapping screws. In this case, there will not be the slightest gap between the furniture and the ceiling;
• the furniture does not reach the ceiling, but the intermediate distance is covered with a decorative wooden or plastic strip;
• built-in wardrobe below the ceiling 50 cm or more. In this case, the gap is not closed by a mezzanine.

Step-by-step guide: making a built-in wardrobe

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to take care of the condition of the niche in which the future structure will be located. To do this, it is cleaned of old finishing materials and the surface is well leveled (find out about this).

If the wardrobe does not have walls at all, then the surface of the recess in the wall can be painted in any color or covered with new wallpaper.

In the case where the furniture is mounted with side, top, bottom and rear walls, the niche must be absolutely flat. You can check this using plumb lines and levels. It is also necessary to measure the diagonals of the recess: from the upper right corner to the lower left and vice versa.

They must be absolutely the same. Will help correct all errors cement mortar or plaster. This is done in order to avoid distortions in the wardrobe.

After completing all preparatory work, must be done drawing of the future cabinet. In this case, be sure to take into account the number, size and location of shelves. Only in this case will it be possible to make it truly convenient for all family members.

Having determined the width of the built-in wardrobe, you need to mark the places where the guides will be attached along which the sliding doors will move.

Then the materials are selected. It is necessary to think about what the doors will be made of. If they are of poor quality, there is a possibility that they will be difficult to open. Preference should be given to laminated chipboard with a thickness of 0.8 cm.

Its average cost is 190 rubles. for 1 m2. When calculating the width of the required canvas, remember that one part must overlap the other by at least 50 mm.

You can also use glass doors, but their cost starts from 20,000 rubles. They are really durable because they are made from very strong, thick glass.

It is possible to prevent cracking of such material by covering it with a special reinforcing film. Set the rollers to this view sliding doors It won't be possible without the help of a professional.

The assembly process can only begin when all visible parts of the chipboard have a beautiful edge.

Required Tools for assembly:

• drill;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• construction corner;
• hex wrench;
• pencil.

Preparing the walls

Assemble the entire structure. If there are shelves, make sure that they do not extend beyond the cabinet.

• Using a tape measure and a pencil, make markings along which the cabinet will be assembled;
• put marks for shelves;
• on all planes make holes through with an 8 mm drill, at the ends with a 5 mm drill (the depth should not exceed 0.6 cm);
• assemble the entire structure. If there are shelves, make sure that they do not extend beyond the cabinet (this will interfere with the doors);
• insert stoppers for canvases into the lower guide;
• screw the upper and lower guides to the niche with self-tapping screws (parallel to each other);
• for the stability of the canvases, screw at least two rollers on top and bottom;
• insert the doors into the guides.

If there is no additional wardrobe, it is inserted into a recess in the wall and leveled using a level. You can screw furniture to the walls using dowels and screws.

Installation of a built-in wardrobe

For reliability, the structure is attached to the niche with dowels and screws.

• make markings on the wall (location of shelves);
• screw the metal corners to the walls with self-tapping screws (this is the base for the shelves);
• secure the shelves to the corners;
• connect the lower, upper and side parts to each other;
• for reliability, the structure is attached to the niche with dowels and screws;
• install guides to the lid and bottom of the cabinet;
• Attach the rollers to the doors and insert them into the guides.

Sometimes after installing the doors, a small gap appears between her and the wall. A hexagon will help fix this. They need to tighten the bolt that secures the lower rollers.

How can you tell if a wardrobe is assembled correctly?

The following indicators will help determine this:

• Complete absence of gaps between the doors and the wall.
• The door leaves move freely along the guides.
• All drawers (if any) open freely.
• The canvases have an overlap.
• The gap between the rod for hanging things on it (if there is one) and the back wall of the cabinet (or niche) should be at least 23 cm.

Having made a drawing and diagram of the cabinet and ordered materials, you can, of course, entrust the assembly work to a professional. However, you need to take into account that the cost of his services will cost approximately 3500-9000 rubles.

That is why, if you invite an assistant home, you can install the entire structure, the frame for the built-in wardrobe, yourself. The main thing is, already at initial stages maintain all verticals and horizontals, which will ensure the correct position of the entire built-in wardrobe and great job his doors.

Video instruction

Sliding wardrobes are popular regardless of the size of the apartment and the income of the owners. They are attracted by their ease of use and the ability to adapt them to room conditions. It is quite possible to make them yourself if you know the features of design, calculations and installation.

Types of sliding wardrobes - from what material, where to install

It’s easier to make a rectangular wardrobe with your own hands; professionals can do radius ones with a curved surface. The most convenient place for installation is a niche. The attractiveness of this location is that an inconvenient place becomes useful, with virtually no impact on the living space.

Installation in the opening between rooms saves the cost of a partition and its decoration, and a built-in wardrobe separates the rooms. The compartment can be installed in the corridor against the wall, which is especially beneficial for small apartments: Doesn't take up much space, which is not enough.

Cabinet sliding wardrobes are also used for zoning rooms. They do not have a back side, they have two front sides, with access to the wardrobe on both sides. Small room Do not overload with furniture; use standard furniture. To the hallway large sizes You can install a spacious wardrobe. If the space allows, then you can easily realize the dream of every woman - the closet turns into a dressing room. Costs increase as sizes increase. Below is a diagram of a large wardrobe for the hallway.

Many materials are suitable for coupes, including laminate, lining, MDF. Only in this case will you have to make frames for door leaf made of wood. They use chipboard, which is convenient for installation due to its large size. Using drywall is possible, but the material is fragile, cannot withstand heavy loads, and sag noticeably without reliable fastening. A simple option is to use old wardrobe with replacement swing doors for sliding ones.

Room measurements - how to avoid installation difficulties

Making furniture requires right angles, and room walls with such precision are rare. Deviations from the rectangular shape can be centimeters, but even a few millimeters can cause installation difficulties. This is especially true for niches, where builders very rarely maintain a right angle.

We take measurements at several points and record the results. We retreat 20 cm from the back wall and mark measurement points on parallel walls. We calculate the height from the floor: the first points are at a distance of 0.8 m, the second - 1.4 m and the third - 2.2 m. Next, we retreat from the first measurements by 30 cm and take another one at the same height. Deviations will have to be corrected with plaster. The walls in the niche can be primed with water-based emulsion and then painted acrylic enamel and forget about dust on the surface for many years.

We check the horizontality of the floor and ceiling with a level, but problems may arise with the squareness of the opening. You won’t be able to measure it yourself using a cord, and the accuracy is too low. We use a simple device of two slats with pointed ends. We fasten them in the middle with rubber rings, insert them into the opening diagonally, and at the point of convergence, make a solid mark with a pencil on the surface of both slats. We check another angle and look at the marks: the discrepancy in the thickness of the mark is 0.3–0.4 mm.

Sizing calculations - impact on cabinet design

Before installing the cabinet in a niche, we determine its width, which furniture makers understand as length. It should not be made as close as possible; it is better to deviate from the minimum length of the niche of 6 cm, then the cabinet is guaranteed to fit into the opening. If the structure is located autonomously against the wall, we reduce the tolerance.

When determining the length, we also take into account the dimensions of the material, which you need to know in advance. Using chipboard, we mean that the size of the plate is 1830 mm × 2750 mm. Drywall 2.5 or 3.0 m long, 1 m wide. We try to ensure that the width of the cabinet is equal to the width of the slab or less. Then there will be no difficulties with installation. As for lining and MDF, we try to ensure that the length of the cabinet is a multiple of the width of the strips.

Sometimes it is necessary to make furniture that exceeds the standard width sheet material. The easiest way is to increase the missing length with a segment. At the joints of the bottom and the ceiling we get a weak point, which can deform under load. To avoid this, we place supports at the joints. You can make two cabinets, and then combine them into a single whole. The only drawback is the excessive consumption of materials for the extra wall.

When calculating the depth, we take into account usable space, used for storing things, then we add 100 mm to it for the sliding system. We choose the height of the cabinet to be 10 cm less than the distance from floor to ceiling, excluding the height of the roof. This will allow you to assemble a massive product in a horizontal position, then lift it without touching the ceiling.

A rigid frame and a strong base are the conditions for furniture stability

If the frame is insufficiently rigid, the cabinets sway, and the main reason for this is the lack of stiffeners. Fiberboard sheet For rear walls cannot provide it. We add transverse 25 cm wide chipboard ties to each section at different levels and fasten them with confirmations. This arrangement will provide maximum rigidity.

For a cabinet frame made of plasterboard, only a metal profile with purchased fasteners is acceptable.

Incorrect placement and insufficient number of supports will lead to deformation of the bottom under load. To avoid this, we install supports 30–40 mm from each bulkhead. The sliding wardrobe can be installed on through supports 25 mm high with the possibility of adjustment through holes in the bottom. The only inconvenience is the gap between the bottom and the floor, which will serve as a garbage container. The second option is to use kitchen legs height 100 mm.

Filling – installation of shelves, drawers and clothes rails

If the shelves are located in separate sections at different levels, there are no problems: suitable use confirmations. Where it is impossible to screw them in, corner ones are installed furniture ties. When installation on the same centerline is required, a "helicopter" can be used for confirmat mounting. In the middle of one of the shelves we screw in the confirmation and turn it along the axis. We screw two confirmations into the shelf opposite and return it to its place. WITH opposite sides We also fasten each shelf with two confirmations.

When calculating the installation of drawers, do not forget about the height of the bottom rail so that the drawer does not rest against it.

To store clothes on hangers in the closet, install a rod in a longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The classic longitudinal rod requires a minimum depth of 60 cm. The transverse version uses a retractable rod. It is fastened with four screws, which is unreliable. Instead of a lift rod, it is better to install a regular one. TO top shelf We screw vertically two longitudinal chipboard boards and attach a shortened rod to them in the usual way.

Calculating the width of doors - the principle “so as not to interfere”

When the door slides to the side, it should completely open access to the section and not interfere with pulling out the drawer or lowering the pantograph lift. Let's look at an example with a three-section coupe with a width of 2100 mm:

1. 1. Measure the width of the internal opening. In our example using chipboard, it will be 2068 mm.
2. 2. Take away the double width of the buffer tape glued to the outer doors of the cabinet. The thickness of each is 6 mm, so we get a total of 2068 minus 12 – 2056 mm.
3. 3. We take into account the overlap of the doors, which in a three-section cabinet is 26 mm on both sides, which in total is 52 mm. The total width of all doors is: 2056 mm plus 52 mm, resulting in 2108 mm. We divide the total width by three, and it comes out to 703 mm.

Such a simple calculation will provide free access to the sections.

Door suspension - features of different systems

There are suspension systems with two guides and with a monorail. The system based on the bottom rail is most widespread. The top rail only serves to support the doors. The system does not jam, touching the sashes is excluded. Installation is simple: insert the top into the groove, lift it, and put the bottom in place.

The system based on the top rail is simple, the fittings are cheap, and installation is simple. The movement of the shutters is quiet and smooth. It has significant shortcomings, so it is rarely used. If you press the door carelessly, the rollers may come out of the grooves and the door will go inside the cabinet. The upper guide is not very rigid; a perfectly flat ceiling and reliable fastening are required.

In a monorail system, each door runs on pairs of rollers on separate rails. They keep the doors from wobbling to a certain extent; the bottom guide is not used. The suspension is precise, rigid, and well adjustable. But the monorail is installed mainly in the bedroom, where only adults will use the closet, since handling similar system requires accuracy.

Door structures - step-by-step assembly guide

1. 1. Calculate the length of the profiles and cut them. The height of the sashes depends on the clearances required for normal operation; they are indicated in the instructions for the suspension elements.
2. 2. Drill holes for attaching the vertical handle profile: outer 10 mm, inner 5.5 mm. We drill 5.5 mm holes in the inner and outer walls, then drill out up to 10 mm in the outer wall. Fastening and adjusting parts pass freely through the outer hole and are attached to the inner hole.
3. 3. Install the profiles on the filler: first horizontal, then vertical. It happens that the profile is difficult to find, then we apply rubber mallet, with which we strike carefully, but not directly along the profile, but through a piece of wood.
4. 4. Connecting profiles. In the upper part we screw a self-tapping screw into the profile, but not completely, so that there is some space left, install the roller and tighten the self-tapping screw. We tighten the profiles from below, insert the lower rollers into horizontal profile, screw the adjusting screw through the hole in the vertical profile.
5. 5. Install the upper guide. There are no nuances here, the only thing that should be observed is the absence of gaps with the side walls.
6. 6. Before installing the bottom rail, we lay it from below, installing stoppers, and hang one sash. We move the bottom rail 20 mm inside the cabinet and screw it on.
Built-in wardrobes diagrams and drawings

The most popular compartment designs are built-in and separate. Collect them from ready-made kits or order cutting to your own sizes. To make calculations easier, we offer universal drawings of sliding wardrobes. All you have to do is take them as a basis and adapt them to the required sizes.

Making your own cabinet will not only help you save money. cash, but also to get a piece of furniture that will match the interior of the room and personal preferences.

Chipboard is common and inexpensive. In addition, it allows you to adapt to any color scheme, so experience with it will come in handy more than once.

So let's begin!

Schemes and drawings

The first priority is to decide where the cabinet will be located. Take into account the width, height, depth of the product, location of shelves and others design features. It is necessary to think about the purpose of the piece of furniture.

Reference. Each product has its own characteristic features. For example, wardrobes made of chipboard for clothes are equipped with sections for storing wardrobe items and drawers.

There are various types of cabinets:

• swing;
• sliding;
• coupe.

Two are ideal for small rooms latest options. A free-standing cabinet cabinet is suitable for different rooms. It can be disassembled and transported to any place. Built-in wardrobes have a significant disadvantage: they are tied to one place.

Before drawing up the drawing, they plan the structure and calculate the dimensions of the product based on the parameters of the room. The drawing is made according to pre-thought-out plans and diagrams. You can use special computer programs.

The layout shows:

• parameters, number and location of shelves;
• dimensions of retractable elements;
• the depth and height of the shelves, the order of their placement;
• dimensions of the cabinet bottom.

Attention! All data must be clear. The final result depends on how accurately the drawing of the product is made. Sawing of materials is carried out by transferring the drawing to the chipboard.

Materials and accessories

When choosing chipboard, it is advisable to pay attention not only to the markings, but also to the manufacturer. Raw materials from German and Austrian manufacturers are considered to be of high quality. There are two types of chipboards on sale: E1 and E2. The first option is the most eco-friendly. Particleboards come with laminated or non-sanded surfaces.

Before sawing, you need to purchase accessories. It should be in the same style as the future product.

To perform work on making a cabinet from chipboard you will need:

• wood screws;
• plastic plugs to match the color of the material;
• guides;
• handles, hooks and other accessories.

To hide roughness on open elements of the product, you will need edge furniture decorative tape.

Tools

Before installation, you need to once again check the correctness of the drawings and the availability of materials. To make a cabinet from chipboard at home you will need a whole set tools:

• circular saw or electric jigsaw;
• wood drill bits and drill;
• screwdriver;
• Phillips and flat screwdriver;
• roulette;
• screws and dowels;
• hammer;
• level;
• perforator;
• Ruler and pencil;
• hacksaw for wood and metal.

Before assembling the product, chipboard sheets are cut: parts are cut out according to the designed drawings. The workpieces are laid out so that longitudinal cuts are along the entire length.

Attention! If it is not possible to cut chipboard sheets yourself due to lack of skills or necessary tools, it is better to contact a carpentry workshop.

The edges are glued to the ends of the prepared parts using an iron. It is included on ¾ from maximum power , applied to the tape and passed along it several times. To press the edge more tightly, iron it with a dry cloth.

How to do it?

Work begins with assembling the frame of the product. Assemble the frame under the bottom. No legs are needed for a wardrobe. In other cases, for adjustment use plastic fixtures. Assembly is carried out in a certain order:

1. Using a drill, prepare holes for the connecting joints, maintaining their accuracy and symmetry. Holes for shelves, partitions, and hangers are also taken into account.
2. Connect the bottom, sides and top part products using screws and a screwdriver. First, lay the bottom of the cabinet and attach the side walls in order. The upper partition is placed on the U-shaped structure.
3. Installation of supports for shelves, hooks, furniture drawers and other elements is carried out at the base of the cabinet. To check the correct installation, use a level. The opposite fasteners must be horizontal.

At the final stage, the door mechanism is fixed. For sliding model cabinets, guides are fixed at the bottom and top. For swing systems, door hinges are screwed into the sides. Upon completion of the work, the installation of fittings is carried out: hooks, crossbars, handles.

Decoration

Before implementing a plan for decorative finishing, you need to clearly decide on the style of the new piece of furniture and determine the method of covering it. There are several techniques for decorating chipboard cabinets. Let's consider painting and filming.

Paint

The most reliable and capital method finishing– painting. It is very easy to do and inexpensive. Particleboards are treated with acrylic, alkyd, aerosol or ordinary wood paint.

Reference. Acrylic spray paint fits on the surface better than usual. The treated surfaces are uniformly painted and smooth.

Chipboard painting is carried out in stages:

1. Level and dust the work surface.
2. Degrease and apply primer.
3. Existing chips are filled with putty and rubbed.
4. Apply one or two more layers of primer.
5. Paint the surfaces with the chosen paint.

You can decorate the cabinet using a stencil with fancy multi-colored or plain patterns and symbols.

Cover with film

Self-adhesive film will give the cabinet originality and the desired style. The film should fit harmoniously into the interior design. But such a coating will not last long.

To complete the work you will need:

• primer;
• solvent;
• soft fabric;
• knife and scissors;
• roller;
• sanding paper.

Pasting with chipboard film is carried out according to a given algorithm:

1. Taking measurements.
2. Cutting the material in the required quantity to decorate the surface.
3. Removing the protective layer from the film.
4. Pasting a furniture panel with a prepared cut.

Important! When using self-adhesive film, the surfaces of the product are treated with a primer to improve the adhesion of both planes.

To prevent wrinkles from forming, the plane is smoothed roller. Start from the edge on which the material is applied.

To treat large areas, you can use a different method of covering with film. The base is a solution of water and soap. Remove the protective layer from the material and place it on the floor. Spray apply soap solution onto the adhesive layer of the film and apply to the surface. If desired, you can apply film gluing together with painting.

Upon completion of the work, the final design of the cabinet is carried out - mirrors are installed, lighting and other functional elements are arranged.

Useful video

Conclusion

Thus, a cabinet made of chipboard, made and decorated by yourself, will become a unique element in interior design. With the right approach, the product will be durable and stable. And the cost will be much lower than the prices for similar models of chipboard cabinets in stores.

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