How to get rid of fungus in the house. How to get rid of dampness, mold and mildew on the walls: effective methods Improper insulation and fungus in the apartment

Kitchen, due to its functional purpose, is the warmest room in the apartment. People often work here for a long time gas stove or oven, additionally heating the space. The question of how to insulate a kitchen usually arises only among owners corner apartments or when combining a kitchen with a loggia. If such a problem does arise, we recommend that you listen to the following tips.

Material selection

When choosing a material, you should take into account not only their performance characteristics, but also the character of the room.

When choosing materials, you should take into account not only their performance characteristics, but also the nature of the room. Due to the fact that cooking occurs here, accompanied by the release of steam, an increase in room temperature, and the presence of an open flame, the materials used must be hygroscopic and fire-resistant.

Among the most common types of insulation currently used, you should prefer extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool. The thickness of the insulation sheets should be selected based on the material and thickness of the walls being insulated. IN block buildings Insulation with a thickness of at least 5 cm is required; in brick ones, laid out in 2 bricks, sheets with a thickness of 2 cm are sufficient.

Operating procedure

Insulating the kitchen should begin in the spring or early summer in order to have more time before the onset of cold weather. The sequence of actions is approximately this:

Insulating the kitchen from the outside

Prepare the walls, remove all irregularities, which is necessary for a better fit of the insulation

This section in no way applies to residents of high-rise multi-story buildings. How to insulate a kitchen by doing thermal insulation work outside, it matters only for owners of private houses and their own cottages. In this case, the following order of work is proposed:

  • They prepare the walls, remove all irregularities, which is necessary for a better fit of the insulation. Using putty, remove all cracks, then prime the surface for better adhesion.
  • Dilute the glue in a bucket according to the appropriate instructions, apply it to a sheet of insulation and, pressing tightly for a few moments, glue it to the wall.
  • Using a puncher, drill holes in the corners of each sheet.
  • Insert the kit into them plastic clips and kit quick installation and hammer it in with a hammer.
  • Strengthen the resulting surface for subsequent plastering. To do this, they fix it on the insulation reinforced mesh, securing with small nails. Dilute the putty with water and apply it with a brush to the reinforced mesh, leaving it for a day to dry completely.

Insulating the kitchen by spraying polyurethane foam

The labor-intensive operations described above for insulating the kitchen room can be replaced by a single, but very effective one - spraying polyurethane foam

The labor-intensive kitchen operations described above can be replaced by a single, but very effective one - spraying polyurethane foam. This technology is new for us, although it has long been well known abroad. This material occupies a leading position among insulation materials in terms of thermal insulation characteristics. This is explained by the fact that 90% of it consists of air, which has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient.

In addition, of course, its low moisture resistance, vapor permeability, and sound insulation ability are valuable. These material properties are very useful for insulation. vegetable pit, read more.

The material has strength, chemical resistance, and resistance to microorganisms. Its high adhesion to all types of materials helps to adhere well to various surfaces without fasteners or adhesives. Thanks to this extensive set of important valuable qualities, polyurethane foam is recognized in the world as polymer No. 1.

The spraying method allows you to obtain a sealed, seamless coating that eliminates any cold bridges. Thanks to this technology, a standard kitchen can be processed within a few hours.

Spraying must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. The Ecotermix company offers services for professional spraying of polyurethane foam on all types of surfaces. The company's specialists use only high-quality certified compounds that meet all required norms and standards, including international ones. Compliance with procedures and technologies, combined with skill and experience, ensures impeccable work results. If you need it, our specialists will definitely help you with this in the shortest possible time.

Video about how polyurethane foam is sprayed from Ecotermix:

Prices for our company’s services can be found in the section

Or order a consultation with a specialist at a time convenient for you!

Application absolutely free and does not oblige you to anything!

You will need

  • For external wall insulation:
  • - Styrofoam;
  • - primer;
  • - glue;
  • - putty knife;
  • - putty;
  • - net;
  • - plaster;
  • - parachute (fastener in the form of a flat umbrella);
  • - bucket;
  • - nails;
  • - brush;
  • - drill;
  • - hammer drill.
  • To insulate walls from the inside you will need:
  • - mineral wool insulation based on fiberglass or expanded polystyrene;
  • - drill or hammer drill;
  • - mineral wool;
  • - waterproofing film;
  • - construction stapler;
  • - guides.

Instructions

Get shopping first required material for work. The amount of insulation depends on the size of the specific kitchen. Insulate the room with outside You can use polystyrene foam. Choose polystyrene sheets depending on what brick the house is built from. If the building was erected from white or sand-lime brick or reinforced concrete block, choose sheets with a thickness of at least 5 cm. If the house is built using two brick shell shells, then external insulation a material 2 cm thick is enough. In addition, immediately purchase plaster, glue, mesh and a parachute (fasteners in the form of a flat umbrella).

Pay attention to the surface of the kitchen walls; if their surface is smooth, first walk over them with a primer. In this case, the glue will give better adhesion to the material. WITH uneven surface remove all roughness before you begin insulation work.

In a small bucket, dilute the glue with water until it becomes thick sour cream. Mix the solution thoroughly to remove lumps and clots. Take a spatula and apply this mixture to the surface of the sheet. Make sure that the glue does not have time to dry, attach the sheet to the wall and press it. Then repeat the procedure for the rest of the surface external walls kitchens, attach the foam corner to corner, not in a checkerboard pattern. After that, take a hammer drill and drill holes right in the corners, at the joints, then secure the material with a nail and a parachute. After two days, the glue will dry completely, and you can start doing other work.

Take the grid and measure right size by the number of walls and foam. Make a cut to the specified dimensions. Use nails to secure the mesh to the foam sheets. After this, take a bucket and dilute the putty with water until smooth. Apply this solution to the mesh from bottom to top and from left to right. You can simply paint a Christmas tree with a brush.

Then take a spatula and use it to remove excess putty. Do this with strong pressure from the tool, then leave the walls to dry for a day. Then continue applying putty to the remaining foam.

Insulate the kitchen using special materials, for example, mineral wool insulation based on fiberglass or expanded polystyrene. To do this, make holes in the wall using a drill or hammer drill and install guides, between which carefully lay mineral wool. Then cover all the walls with waterproofing film, using a construction stapler to fix it. Carefully read the instructions for using the film, as there is a smooth side and a lint side. Make sure that the insulated wall is completely covered and there are no gaps in the insulation. After that, wallpaper the walls plastic lining and begin installing the heating system.

An additional way to insulate the kitchen is to install plastic windows and insulate the floor.

When mold and mildew appear, many people think about how to remove them. Mold spoils the appearance of the balcony, radiates bad smell, but the most important thing is that it can cause significant harm to health.

Mold negatively affects the human body.

Mold and mildew can appear on the balcony only if conditions are favorable for this. This problem needs to be dealt with effectively.

Causes of mold and mildew

Many reasons lead to the appearance of fungus, but the main ones are:

  • . If the temperature is 20 degrees or higher and the humidity is more than 60%, this means that the ventilation of the balcony is impaired.
  • Consistency of air humidity. This can happen when the windows are depressurized, as well as due to the presence of a diseased number of plants.
  • . The moisture that forms on glass is also a favorable factor for the growth of fungus and mold. Moisture is formed due to the difference in temperature on the balcony and outside it.
  • If the balcony walls are thin, then they freeze in cold weather.

How to get rid of mold and mildew on the balcony

The most important thing is to eliminate the cause of the appearance of these bacteria.

If you want to get rid of fungus and mold, then first you need to eliminate the immediate causes of this problem.

To combat condensation, you need to check whether the balcony ventilation is working correctly, or if not, it is necessary to install ventilation.

Possible, fans, forced ventilation. In addition to installing ventilation, you need to insulate your balcony or loggia.

The appearance of condensation also depends on the characteristics of the double-glazed windows.

Single-chamber double-glazed windows, due to their high thermal conductivity, are very susceptible to moisture.

How can you treat fungus and mold on the balcony?

The main active agents against fungus

Fungus can be treated with a variety of means.

Most Popular folk remedy is acetic acid And copper sulfate.

For a ten-liter bucket of water you need to take:

  1. 500 grams of copper sulfate;
  2. 2 tablespoons vinegar;
  3. You need to heat this mixture on the stove to 70 degrees;
  4. After this, it is applied with a brush to the walls and everything else where mold is located.
  5. This product can also be sprayed onto the affected surface.

If you need to repeat this procedure, it should be done at intervals of a month.

One more the folk way is the treatment of walls with a chlorine solution.

There are many ways to get rid of mold, but the most reliable are special means. They are called antiseptics.

Since each type of fungus is different, a specific type needs its own antiseptic that will work on it.

To do this, it is better to invite a professional in this matter who will help you solve this problem.

How to deal with the problem in winter

For some reason, the problem of fungus formation on the balcony always worsens in winter.

The cause of winter time is the formation of condensation. Condensation forms due to the difference in temperature on the balcony and outside.

To begin eliminating mold, you must wear a respirator.

Take a spatula and use it to clean the walls of fungus. If the affected areas are small, then simply scraping them off is enough.

If the areas are large, then scrape them down to the brick. Then the walls must be treated with special antiseptics. After this, the wall needs to be dried very well using a hair dryer.

Perhaps you have had to deal with the problem of mold on the walls, well, or you have probably heard about it. The fact is that mold on the walls does not appear overnight, the process is gradual. It’s just that at first the owners of the room do not pay attention to the first signs of its appearance, but begin to sound the alarm when stains already appear on the wallpaper and “intricate patterns” appear.

Such manifestations indicate that the mycelium has already grown several meters into the wall and exists for about several months. And so, when the conditions for mold fungus become optimal, for example, in a rainy autumn, when the heating is not yet turned on, spots of brown, pink, Brown, mucus and even cotton-like growths may appear. Of course, this is not just a nuisance, it is a real disaster. After all, in addition to the terrifying appearance, mold is unsafe for health, and also leads to the destruction of walls, that is, peeling of any finishing material. How to get rid of damp walls and thereby fight mold? This article will talk about this.

There is an opinion, probably based on our own bad experience, that it is impossible to defeat the fungus. For example, some try to get rid of the problem by insulating the walls. But this approach not only does not help, but aggravates the situation, since the fungus feels great in thermal insulation material. Or, spotlights are powerful and bright lamps that are used to “dry out the mold.” Fungal spores quickly adapt to new conditions and easily tolerate drying out. Unfortunately, waterproofing laid over mold will not help either. The water will find a way to bypass all the tricks and the mold will “bloom” again. Neither office glue nor copper sulfate will help; these techniques are long outdated. Modern impregnations, primers and preparations against mold fungi provide a more visible effect, but there is no need to rush with their use, since the result can be temporary.

Why are there problems when dealing with mold?

The main reason for failures in the fight against mold is the elimination of the consequences, the visible result, and not the cause of its appearance. And the reason is simple - dampness, which mold fungi love very much. This is what needs to be combated first of all with the help of a number of measures. If the air humidity in the room is 95% or more, and the temperature is +20°C, then the likelihood of mold appearing and spreading is very high.

Such a high level of humidity can occur in a living space in the following cases:

  • available plastic windows, which are rarely put on “ventilation” and there is no air conditioning;
  • a large accumulation of indoor plants in one place;
  • frequent washing and drying of clothes indoors;
  • cool indoor air with high humidity outside;
  • there are roof leaks;
  • problems with the water supply system, pipe failures;
  • system problems central heating and plumbing networks;
  • damage to the wall through which moisture enters from the outside, for example, during rain;
  • improperly performed insulation of external walls.

Why does mold appear on walls?

  • Moisture seeps in from the street through damage to the wall.
  • Wet warm air indoors comes into contact with cold walls and moisture (condensation) forms on their surface.
  • A communication problem that was not detected in time.

Until you know exactly the cause of mold, do not purchase any means to combat it, since each case requires a separate solution.

For example, external moisture. If mold appears on the walls, you need to not only remove the mold itself, but also part of the plaster. If the wall is damp inside, it means that moisture is coming from the street through cracks and treating the wall indoors with solutions and compounds will not help. To solve this problem you can use different ways, the choice of which depends on financial capabilities and specific situation. One of the most effective and at the same time affordable methods is to use an additional layer of plaster on the outside of the building. You should know that the usual sand-cement plasters have low vapor permeability, so condensation forms between the coating and the wall. Consequently, the surface of the main structure will be wet all the time. The result of this is constant freezing and thawing of condensate, and, of course, the formation of mold. It will not take much time for the plaster, under such conditions, to simply fall off the wall.

What plaster should be used to plaster walls to avoid mold?

To prevent such problems, special plasters with additives are used, called sanitizing or drying plasters. They are based on a cement-lime mixture, since lime together with cement provides the mixture with softness and lightness. Additives in the composition are necessary to provide it with the porosity necessary for salt accumulation and constant movement of steam.

It is worth mentioning one more factor. In this case, we are not talking about wall insulation, although the fact that after plastering the walls the temperature in the room will rise by a couple of degrees is very pleasant.

Why does condensation form on the wall and how to deal with it?

If there is no moisture inside the walls, the fittings and walled-in screws are not covered with rust, then the problem is internal condensation. The methods of struggle here are different.

The condensation formed in the wall is associated with the “dew point”. When the outside temperature changes relative to the indoor temperature, even if the humidity is normal, condensation appears on the walls. The dew point directly depends on the temperature difference between the air and the walls in the apartment and the humidity in the room. A good example this process– foggy windows. When it’s cold outside and the glass is also cold, and in the kitchen, for example, it’s humid and warm, condensation immediately forms on the windows and they fog up. The same thing happens with walls.

Ways to solve the problem

There are two main ways to solve this problem:

  • Increase the thermal resistance of the walls so that the point is not on the inner surface of the wall, but inside. Or heat them, similar to what happens during the heating season.
  • Reducing the relative humidity is probably the first thing to do. The temperature on the surface of the walls should not be low to prevent condensation from forming.
  • How to reduce indoor humidity? It is necessary to arrange its output to the outside through exhaust ducts. But, it should be remembered that in order for the air to “extend” it must be “drawn in” somewhere, which means it is necessary to ensure an influx fresh air. Most often, ventilation in a living room occurs using a vent or a slightly open window. But, it is worth noting that the window is not able to cope with the tasks of ventilation, and it is unlikely to be possible to keep it open all the time. Therefore, it is worth thinking about supply ventilation. Of course, the best option would be a comprehensive solution to the problem. That is, you need to insulate the walls from the inside and reduce humidity using ventilation. And when the temperature of the walls rises, the dew point will be inside the wall, which means condensation will not form and the risk of the appearance and development of mold will be reduced.

    Mold and mildew in the bathroom

    Favorite places for mold fungus are the bathroom and toilet, as this is the place high humidity. For example, a leaking toilet or a dripping faucet are already sufficient sources of dampness. That is why plumbing must always be in good condition, and all problems that arise, even small ones, must be corrected immediately.

    The source of moisture in the toilet can be the cold water supply riser, since its insulation is compromised over time. Define this problem possible by the presence of permanent condensate on the pipe. If this happens, you need to act urgently. You can protect the riser with special vapor-plastic pipes, which can be different diameters or apply special purpose Scotch tape.

    Often, the culprit of troubles in the bathroom is a heated towel rail that does not dry enough wet air bathroom. Of course, replacing a heated towel rail is not easy, nor is it cheap, but the result, believe me, is worth it. During periods when hot water turns off and the humidity level in the bathroom rises, you need to take care of additional heating of the room.

    It is very important to ventilate the bathroom, so proper ventilation is necessary. Ventilation in the bathroom, as in the entire room, is designed before the construction of the house, but it is necessary to check its performance and, if necessary, install a fan that does not require large expenses. There are times when there is no draft even with a fan. Most likely, the problem is related to a broken or clogged ventilation shaft, and if this is the case, then the root cause needs to be eliminated.

    How to get rid of the effects of fungus?

    When you have taken all measures to eliminate the cause of the fungus, you can move on to the next stage - removing mold and drying the wall, after which you can begin repairs. First, all old coverings are manually removed from the walls, and then the wall is thoroughly dried with soffits, construction hairdryer or electric heaters. The best option for such a procedure will be infrared heaters, the radiation of which penetrates deep into the surface and dries it as efficiently as possible. If the case is “severe”, then it is necessary to remove the layer of plaster, and drill holes in the places where the fungus is most widespread to see the depth of the damage. And do not forget that all the described procedures must be carried out in a respirator so that dust and fungal spores do not enter the body.

    Means for combating fungus and mold

    When all the preparation work has been completed, you can apply special antifungal preparations to the surface of the wall, of course, it is better after consultation with a specialist. Today there are many effective means: impregnation and primer penetrating deep into the lesion. But there are certain rules when choosing these funds. It is necessary to choose not just biocidal preparations, but products specifically for a specific surface: concrete, brick, plaster, wood.

    For example, Finnish manufacturers specialize in the production of wood biocides. One of the effective and popular Finnish remedies is Homeenpoiste, which contains chlorine, known for its antiseptic properties. Or, for example, German-made biocides, which are intended mainly for mineral surfaces. Although, there are also universal means– antiseptics and paints that will provide lasting results in the fight against mold.

    There are also biocidal preparations on the construction products market. Russian production, which enjoy constant popularity among consumers. Their quality is at a decent level, and their prices are noticeably lower compared to foreign analogues. You can also find “Biodoctor” in hardware stores, a product from Ukrainian manufacturers. It is worth noting that this product was tested on 19 types of molds and showed decent results.

    When choosing any product to combat fungus and mold, you need to look at the purpose of the product. Often, a drug, especially an imported one, is intended only to prevent the appearance of fungi, and not to combat them. In general, carefully read the instructions and consult with the seller.

    The cost of primers and biocides per liter varies and depends mainly on the manufacturer. Such preparations are easy to use; they are sold in containers of 1-3-5 liters, ready for use. Apply the product to the surface using a roller or brush as described in the instructions. In advanced cases, the product must be applied 2-4 times, leaving an interval of several days between procedures so that the previous layer is completely dry.

    When working with these drugs, it is necessary to strictly follow a number of rules, namely, use gloves, safety glasses, and reliably protect the face and other parts of the body from contact with solutions. After the biocide treatment has been carried out and the layers have dried, finishing can be done.

    Know that if mold has settled in the house for a long time and you cannot deal with it on your own, then you should seek the help of specialists. The sanitary and epidemiological station deals with such issues. By the way, in Western countries There is a rule according to which it is impossible to deal with microbiological contamination on your own if the affected area exceeds 90 cm2.

    How to get rid of mold in 4 minutes. Video

    The video below shows one of the simplest options for getting rid of mold with a cheap product.

    In any residential building, as well as apartment, the kitchen is an integral part. In the kitchen they prepare food, eat, and have small gatherings with friends. Therefore, this room, like any other, should be cozy and comfortable. One of the key factors in ensuring comfort is the temperature in the room, as well as the absence of drafts.

    In turn, this means that the kitchen area needs to be insulated. However, this task becomes more difficult high level humidity, as well as temperature changes. Therefore, insulation materials such as glass wool, as well as cladding material such as ordinary drywall, are unacceptable for use. How you can insulate your kitchen and create a delightful interior is described below.

    Insulation with plastic panels

    The most practical and in an economical way kitchen insulation is the use of plastic panels, metal profiles, as well as foam or polystyrene foam. But before you start renovation work, you need to check availability necessary materials, as well as tools.

    Such materials and tools include: metallic profile, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, plastic panels, metal screws, screwdriver, dowels with screws, profile fasteners, drill, stationery knife, construction meter, marker or construction pencil, primer, level, glue for facing insulation.

    Having the above materials, as well as tools, you can begin insulation and cladding work. The first stage of such work is to clear the room of all things and furniture in order to have access to any point on the wall surface. After this, it is necessary to measure the height and width of the surface that will be insulated. This is necessary to know how long the profiles are needed, as well as their number. Having completed the measurements, it is necessary to cut the profile in accordance with the height of the ceiling.

    How to calculate the amount of material

    The number of profiles must be calculated based on the fact that they are attached to the wall in increments of 50 centimeters. Having prepared the material, you need to mark the locations for the holes for fastening and mounting the profiles. To do this, apply a profile on the left side of the surface and mark its position, then repeat this procedure in increments of 50 centimeters. Having marked the installation locations with a drill, holes are made from bottom to top in increments of 30 centimeters on both sides of the profile near each profile. Dowels are driven into the holes and the profile fasteners are secured.

    Having completed such preparatory work, install a number of profiles to the fasteners, the level of the profiles is aligned with the building level. After this, the surface between the mounted profiles is treated with a primer, glue is mixed and foam or polystyrene foam is glued. This whole structure is sewn up plastic panels using the same metal screws. Thus, you get a smooth, neat and insulated wall in the kitchen.