This article will tell you how and how to securely fasten the lining to the walls and ceiling. By the way, do not confuse the lining with a block house and imitation timber. These are different things. There is a separate article about the block house, and read about imitation timber here.
Ways to fasten the lining
There are three main methods of fastening.
The first method is installation using nails. This is the oldest and simplest method.
The second method is fastening with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws became available relatively recently. About 20-30 years ago they were in short supply.
The third method is installation on clamps. This method appeared quite recently, about 10-15 years ago.
Let's consider the question in more detail.
Fastening with nails
To fasten the lining I use various nails. They are different color. The most commonly used nails are yellow. They are closer to the color of the lining.
I use nails less often Brown. If you will paint the lining in dark colors, then the brown nails will be less noticeable.
The most uncommon ones are silver and black carnations. They look worse against the background of wood.
There are nails different sizes. Often, nails twice as thick as the lining are used. The thickness of the lining is 12 mm -14 mm, which means that nails should be used 24 mm. Sometimes nails longer than 30 mm -40 mm are needed.
At the nails for the lining - special type hats. It is spherical in shape. When such a nail is driven into the lining, the head is lost against the background of the wood.
And there is also different body. Most Russian nails are smooth. But we receive nails on the market whose body has notches.
These serifs can be helical - like an ice drill auger. Or they can be ring-shaped and not form a thread. The coils help to stay in the wood better. When the wood dries out, such a nail does not dangle or creak.
Fastening with self-tapping screws
Self-tapping screws for fastening lining have a number of parameters.
The most commonly used are yellow screws. It is closest in color to wood.
Long ones use self-tapping screws from 20 mm to 40 mm. It is harmful to use longer ones.
The head of the self-tapping screw must be hidden. At the moment of tightening, it goes into the tree.
They usually choose the thinnest self-tapping screws that can be bought. The thicker the screw, the worse. Thick screws cause the wood to burst.
We use self-tapping screws with a thickness of 2.9 mm. (rod diameter 2.2mm)
Self-tapping screws are more reliable fasteners than nails. They hold a large load and are not prone to twisting.
Another plus is that they do not creak over time. As the nail hole heats up, it increases in diameter. When you press on the lining, the nail sitting in it begins to make a sound. Everyone heard the sound of creaking floors. It often comes from nails.
If you need to shrink the lining, this can only be done with self-tapping screws.
Let’s say for some reason you need to disassemble a finished wall made of clapboard. We unscrew the screws and remove the sticks from the wall. Then, they did what they wanted. And you can attach the same lining to the old places with the same screws. This is a huge plus.
Not everyone knows
Self-tapping screws and nails are through-hole fasteners. There is also a non-through fastening method. When the lining is fastened with a self-tapping screw from the back.
The secret is in the selected length. The self-tapping screw is not visible, but at the same time it holds the lining. This is how we make, for example, lining cabinet doors. Let's look at the photo together.
Fastening with clamps
Unlike a nail and a self-tapping screw, a clamp is a non-independent fastener. It requires fixation with something.
There are three ways to attach the clamp. The clamp can be secured with nails, screws or a stapler.
Fastening with nails has a big disadvantage. Since the nails need to be used small, during driving you can hit the clamp and flatten it. I don’t like fastening the clasp with nails and I don’t advise you to.
Fixing the clamp with a stapler is a more difficult task. Firstly, it is difficult to choose a clasp whose holes are ideal for the size of the brackets. Secondly, during operation, the staples periodically do not fit into the holes. Because when you insert the stapler, most of the staple is not visible.
After several hits, you can hit a knot, the bracket will bend and need to be pulled out. It takes time.
Most correct fastening clasp - with small self-tapping screws. A short self-tapping screw of 10 - 12 mm is used, with the least completeness and always a countersunk head.
Just screw in the self-tapping screw. Due to its small size, it is screwed in with lightning speed.
The self-tapping screw can be screwed in at a slight angle. For example, 60°, thereby pressing the clamp well to the lining.
If you need to dismantle the lining, the clamps fastened with self-tapping screws can be quickly removed. But for example, nails won’t let you do that.
The biggest advantage of clamps is invisibility. Often this covers all the disadvantages of which there are many.
What is the lining attached to?
Since this is a topic for a separate article. Let's consider just a few points.
First, the sheathing is assembled. Typically, a rail with a thickness of 18 -20 mm and a width of 30 - 40 mm is used.
A clamp or self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the rail. Based on the calculation, one fastening point holds 0.8 m of wooden lining.
The screw heads can be hidden from view, for example, with a ceiling fillet or floor plinth.
In inconspicuous places we screw in a self-tapping screw, and where the lining is visible we install a clamp.
Over the last decade, screws and self-tapping screws have become so popular that we almost don’t remember about nails. At the same time in the West frame construction for the most part they only use nails. So which is better, nails or screws?
We conducted a small test to show one of the main disadvantages of screws, which many people forget about.
To prevent self-tapping screws or metal alloy screws from bending when screwed, they are hardened during the manufacturing process. After it, the metal becomes hard but brittle. This is the main disadvantage of screws and self-tapping screws. But to be precise, only galvanized self-tapping screws (white, yellow) are subject to hardening. Black self-tapping screws are usually made from oxidized steel C1022, although this is also relatively brittle.
The nails are not hardened, so they can withstand heavy loads better. If the load increases excessively, the nail will bend but not break, unlike screws or self-tapping screws. That is why they are still used in construction when assembling frames in areas with high loads. Screws are often assigned the role of fastening finishing materials.
Another advantage of nails is that with special nailing guns, the process of assembling structures is accelerated significantly.
Now a little test. For comparison, we took two screws 6x90 and 4.5x70, two self-tapping screws 4.8x110 and 3.5x55, as well as a small nail 3x75.
A short video will help you see the difference between them.
It can be seen that hardened screws are the most fragile and break almost immediately. Black steel screws are more durable, but also cannot withstand several bends. But to break a nail, you need to make a couple of dozen sharp bending movements.
This test does not mean that we are advocating the use of nails. We just want to show that the choice of fasteners should be treated with due care. And, of course, there are plenty of places where self-tapping screws will give a head start to any nails.
When arranging floors in the house, in addition to choosing the type flooring, you need to be especially careful when selecting the method of fastening the purchased material. For anyone building material We use our own fastening methods, including for floorboards. Let's look at how to attach floorboard the most reliable and popular methods.
Methods for fixing floorboards
The floor covering experiences quite serious loads, so it is necessary to approach the choice of fastening method with all responsibility. If some floorboards are not secured well enough, then after some time they will begin to loosen.
As a rule, this happens after a short period of time. The floorboards move, the initially flat floor begins to make an unpleasant creaking sound, and often it simply collapses.
There are several most common ways to attach floorboards:
- secret method, that is, the use of screws or nails;
- using glue;
- fastening with clamps.
Fixing floorboards with nails
In this case, the floorboard is fastened to wooden base, which can be solid or made of lags. Initially, the width of the floorboard is taken into account, which is important.
The first row of floorboards is secured using nails, which are driven at a 45° angle through the tongue into the base. Then they are driven into place. You should pre-drill holes for fastening elements. This is done so as not to damage the ridges.
When adjusting the next row, the nails must be hidden. All subsequent rows of boards are fixed by driving nails through the surface.
When repairs are made plank covering and several floorboards are replaced, you need to ensure that all the floorboards end under the center of the crossbar. Otherwise, you may end up with a non-durable coating.
Glue method
If the floorboard is laid on a solid base, it can be fixed with glue. To do this, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, you can use regular PVA glue, and then they are placed on the tongues of the previous row.
The glue should be applied in a thin layer in 50 cm increments along the entire groove. The final tongue-and-groove edges should also be coated with adhesive.
Fastening with clamps
Some types of boards come with special clamps that fit into a slot on the board. inside. These elements are designed to connect boards to each other. So, how to lay a floorboard using this method fastenings?
To do this, you should adhere to the following technology:
- Waterproofing material is laid on the subfloor, which should be secured to the walls with construction tape.
- The clamps should be driven into the cracks of the boards laid in the first row using a hammer. This is done in the direction of the tongue.
- The ends of the planks are coated with glue, and then the first row is laid.
- Wedges about 1 cm thick should be inserted between the wall and the boards.
- Clamps are also attached to the second row of boards. The floorboards are secured in place by gently tapping a hammer through a block along the edges of the row.
- The remaining rows are laid out similarly.
- Then the wedges between the wall and the covering are removed.
- Installation of baseboards is in progress.
Special screws for floorboards
Professional craftsmen use special screws for floorboards to attach floorboards. The use of such fastening material allows you to obtain a reliably fixed floor covering with a fairly long service life.
Compared to conventional self-tapping screws, the cost of this type is an order of magnitude higher. However, in their properties they are more effective.
Special screws designed for floorboards have the following features:
- These fasteners are available in various sizes. Standard cross-section is 3.5 mm, length can be 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floorboards, the size of the screw is selected.
- This fastener for floorboards is not subject to corrosion, as it has a protective coating.
- There is a cutter at the end of the self-tapping screw, which allows it to be screwed into wood without pre-drilling holes. In addition, this structure allows the screw to fit more tightly, which means that the fixation of the floorboards to the base of the floor will be more durable.
- The self-tapping screw has a special milling cut. It has an angle at which fastener easily enters the wood and does not split.
- Self-tapping screws for floorboards have another structural feature, which is the absence of a threaded thread in the upper part. This design allows the floor covering to fit more tightly to the base.
Here are some tips on how to properly lay a floorboard:
- It is necessary to fasten the floorboards to the base using screws in increments of 25-30 cm.
- Some craftsmen recommend that before laying the floorboard and fixing it to the base, apply glue to it, which is used when installing parquet flooring. This option can be used if the waterproofing layer (for example, polyethylene film) was not laid. The adhesive fixation method cannot be used alone. It is used only as an addition to the main method of fastening using nails or screws. Without them, it will not be possible to obtain a strong and reliable fastening of the floorboards (read: "").
- Along the entire perimeter of the room there should not be a tight connection of the boards to the wall. It is necessary to leave a gap between the wall and the floorboards of approximately 10 mm. It will act as an expansion joint.
- The screws used to install the plank floor can be completely hidden. To do this, the heads of the screws should be recessed into the wood by about 3-4 mm. The resulting holes can be hidden with pieces of wood that will match their shape and size. It should also be the same type of wood as the floorboards. Most companies that produce high-quality lumber complete their products with similar plugs.
The strength, reliability and service life of the floor covering will depend on how you lay the floorboard. Therefore, correct fixation of floorboards is very important point In floor installation, therefore, it is worth approaching the choice of the method of fastening the boards with special care.
Hello readers! I haven't written on the blog for a long time. The season for installing and adjusting windows before winter has begun. Everyone wants to stay warm.
So, many clients are interested in how we attach plastic windows. I’ll say right away that there is no single fastening.
It all depends on where the window is installed. Therefore we can use anchors or plates. In general, I got tired of answering the same questions and I decided to put them in one article, a link to which they will give to all their new clients.
I hope you find this information useful too. Read, get acquainted.
The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:
- Brick;
- Tree;
- Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block;
- Concrete.
Secondly, on the type of construction and technical specifications installation:
- Loggias;
- Entrance doors;
- Window;
- Stained glass.
How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners
1. Anchor or frame dowel. It happens with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that optimal diameter frame dowel - 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fastening for windows.
Available in different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used as follows:
IN window frame a hole is drilled using a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Then, using a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the concrete, right through the frame.
I consider this optional. Therefore, as for the dowel head, there is even a special decorative plug. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.
For each type window profile, especially popular ones, produce a certain type of anchor plate. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, you can use any window plates (only for the sake of economy, of course).
By the way, regarding screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile.
So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds the window.
It must be said that there are cases (nowadays less often) when window installers, grossly violating installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Simply fix the window with wedges and fill it with polyurethane foam.
I hope such cases will pass you by.
3. Wood screws. Used for attaching windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.
4. Screw for concrete. I think it is only used in Europe. I went to the professional store “Fixtures” in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, and talked with the sellers. They don't have these screws.
How to attach plastic windows to brick?
Brick is good material for the construction of buildings. But attaching plastic windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?
If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally.
This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.
It is advisable to choose a frame dowel of the longest possible length (minimum penetration into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.
You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even solid brick can be of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.
How to attach plastic windows to wood?
The ideal option for fastening windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, plates only.
From my bitter experience I will tell you how I fixed windows with screws in top part boxes in a timber house. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.
As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.
By the way, even during construction frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.
Anchor plates for wooden houses good for the following reasons:
- Quick installation;
- Compensates for thermal expansion;
- Do not affect window designs when shrinking.
How to attach plastic windows to aerated concrete?
The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.
But it is more correct to attach plastic windows to anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.
How to fix plastic windows in concrete?
If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, jumpers are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.
In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But it is more efficient to attach panel and block houses to a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.
At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.
As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or into the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.
Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.
And finally, I would like to say about a big plus anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.
When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.
When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.