How to drill a large hole with a drill. Drilling metal. Necessary tools and samples

A structure whose surface is as difficult to damage as it is to drill. But if such a need nevertheless arises, then with the help of special equipment and compliance with certain rules it is still possible to do this. And now about everything in more detail.

General provisions

Let's first look at why a concrete wall can't be drilled conventional methods. And everything lies in the structure of such a durable material:

As you can see, the action of all components is aimed at increasing the strength qualities of the finished product. Especially critical for conventional drills is crushed stone, which instantly dulls their cutting edges.

And despite all the complexity of processing a concrete wall, the need for this can arise very often.

For example, if you need:

Hang the shelf on the wall or any other furniture interior.

Finish with plasterboard.

Carrying out electrical wiring, installing new sockets and switches. In this case, to lay the wire, reinforced concrete is also cut with diamond wheels.

Plumbing connection.

Execution technology

We have dealt with the need and the difficulties that arise, now we will look at how to properly drill a concrete wall.

Tool selection

First of all, let's decide what to drill into a concrete wall. , of course, do not fit.

You can choose from the following options:

Drills tipped from Pobedite. But it should be borne in mind that in addition to rotation, a shock function will also be required.

Advice: should not be used cutting tool with a pobedit for drilling iron or wood, as it will crush them.

Drills with diamond coating . Such edges will be able to cut stone even without impact, but their price is much higher.

But the question of how to drill into a concrete wall is not limited to the choice of consumables.

You also need to decide on the tool:

Regular drill. Only if you don’t have anything more suitable and you only need to make 2-3 holes. And in this case, from time to time you will have to pierce the concrete layer with a steel pin with your own hands.
Hammer drill. It will cope with a small amount of work even if the diameter of the required holes does not exceed 13 mm. The fact is that the impact in such a device is carried out due to a metal “ratchet”, which wears out quite quickly under intense load.

Hammer. Will master large volumes and can even use special crown-shaped bits, which are ideal for drilling sockets for sockets. In it, the impact is carried out due to the piston system, which is much more powerful and less likely to fail than the “ratchet” of a drill.

The following generalized table will help to summarize and give a final answer to the question of what is the best way to drill concrete walls:

Carrying out work

Now let's figure out how to drill a concrete wall. To do this, let's take a hammer drill as a clear winner of impromptu competitions.

The instructions for its operation are as follows:

We check the shaft shaft for debris. If we find one, we delete it.
Insert the drill until it clicks. In this case, in some models it may be necessary to pull the slider part of the “nose” of the tool towards you.
We bring it strictly perpendicularly and begin to drill, lightly pressing on it.

Tip: moisten from time to time working part drills with water. This will protect it from overheating and extend its service life.

During the drilling process, the drill may get stuck. In this case, you should not try to loosen it in order to pull it out, as you may break off the tip. Simply remove the tool from the device, insert a drill of a smaller diameter and try to use it to widen the hole and free the captive product.
Monitor the equipment while allowing it to cool.

Conclusion

We looked at how to drill through a concrete wall, the process itself is not that complicated. The main thing is to choose the right tools and follow some rules while working. The most practical and rational decision will be the use of a hammer drill with pobedit drills.

The video in this article will provide you with additional information regarding the presented materials for your consideration. Be careful and you will succeed!

The work of drilling holes in metal, depending on the type of holes and the properties of the metal, can be performed different instruments and using various techniques. We want to tell you about drilling methods, tools, as well as safety precautions when performing this work.

Drilling holes in metal may be necessary for repairs. engineering systems, household appliances, car, creating structures from sheet and profile steel, designing crafts from aluminum and copper, in the manufacture of circuit boards for radio equipment and in many other cases. It is important to understand what tool is needed for each type of work so that the holes are of the required diameter and in the strictly intended location, and what safety measures will help avoid injuries.

Tools, fixtures, drills

The main tools for drilling are hand and electric drills, and, if possible, drill presses. The working body of these mechanisms - the drill - can have different shapes.

Drills are distinguished:

spiral (most common);
screw;
crowns;
conical;
feathers, etc.

Drill production various designs standardized by numerous GOSTs. Drills up to Ø 2 mm are not marked, up to Ø 3 mm - the section and steel grade are indicated on the shank; larger diameters may contain additional information. To obtain a hole of a certain diameter, you need to take a drill a few tenths of a millimeter smaller. The better the drill is sharpened, the smaller the difference between these diameters.

Drills differ not only in diameter, but also in length - short, elongated and long are produced. Important information is also the ultimate hardness of the metal being processed. The drill shank can be cylindrical or conical, which should be kept in mind when selecting a drill chuck or adapter sleeve.

1. Drill with a cylindrical shank. 2. Drill with tapered shank. 3. Drill with a sword for carving. 4. Center drill. 5. Drill with two diameters. 6. Center drill. 7. Conical drill. 8. Conical multi-stage drill

Some jobs and materials require special sharpening. The harder the metal being processed, the sharper the edge should be sharpened. For thin sheet metal, a regular twist drill may not be suitable; you will need a tool with a special sharpening. Detailed recommendations For various types drills and processed metals (thickness, hardness, type of hole) are quite extensive, and we will not consider them in this article.

Various types of drill sharpening. 1. For hard steel. 2. For of stainless steel. 3. For copper and copper alloys. 4. For aluminum and aluminum alloys. 5. For cast iron. 6. Bakelite

1. Standard sharpening. 2. Free sharpening. 3. Diluted sharpening. 4. Heavy sharpening. 5. Separate sharpening

To secure parts before drilling, vices, stops, jigs, angles, clamps with bolts and other devices are used. This is not only a safety requirement, it is actually more convenient, and the holes are of better quality.

To chamfer and process the surface of the channel, a cylindrical or conical countersink is used, and to mark the point for drilling and so that the drill does not “jump off,” a hammer and a center punch are used.

Advice! The best drills are still considered to be those produced in the USSR - they strictly follow GOST in terms of geometry and metal composition. German Ruko with titanium coating are also good, as well as drills from Bosch - proven quality. Good feedback about Haisser products - powerful, usually large diameter. The Zubr drills, especially the Cobalt series, performed well.

Drilling modes

It is very important to correctly secure and guide the drill, as well as select the cutting mode.

When making holes in metal by drilling, important factors are the number of revolutions of the drill and the feed force applied to the drill, directed along its axis, ensuring the depth of the drill with one revolution (mm/rev). When working with different metals and drills, different cutting modes are recommended, and the harder the metal being processed and the larger the diameter of the drill, the lower the recommended cutting speed. An indicator of the correct mode is beautiful, long chips.

Use the tables to choose the right mode and avoid dulling the drill prematurely.

Feed S 0 , mm/rev	Drill diameter D, mm
	2,5	4	6	8	10	12	146	20	25	32
	Cutting speed v, m/min
*When drilling steel*
0,06	17	22	26	30	33	42	—	—	—	—
0,10	—	17	20	23	26	28	32	38	40	44
0,15	—	—	18	20	22	24	27	30	33	35
0,20	—	—	15	17	18	20	23	25	27	30
0,30	—	—	—	14	16	17	19	21	23	25
0,40	—	—	—	—	—	14	16	18	19	21
0,60	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	14	15	11
*When drilling cast iron*
0,06	18	22	25	27	29	30	32	33	34	35
0,10	—	18	20	22	23	24	26	27	28	30
0,15	—	15	17	18	19	20	22	23	25	26
0,20	—	—	15	16	17	18	19	20	21	22
0,30	—	—	13	14	15	16	17	18	19	19
0,40	—	—	—	—	14	14	15	16	16	17
0,60	—	—	—	—	—	—	13	14	15	15
0,80	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	13
*When drilling aluminum alloys*
0,06	75	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—
0,10	53	70	81	92	100	—	—	—	—	—
0,15	39	53	62	69	75	81	90	—	—	—
0,20	—	43	50	56	62	67	74	82	-	-
0,30	—	—	42	48	52	56	62	68	75	—
0,40	—	—	—	40	45	48	53	59	64	69
0,60	—	—	—	—	37	39	44	48	52	56
0,80	—	—	—	—	—	—	38	42	46	54
1,00	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	42

Table 2. Correction factors

Table 3. Revolutions and feed at different diameters drill bits and carbon steel drilling

Types of holes in metal and methods of drilling them

Types of holes:

deaf;
end-to-end;
half (incomplete);
deep;
large diameter;
for internal thread.

Threaded holes require diameters to be determined with the tolerances established in GOST 16093-2004. For common hardware, the calculation is given in Table 5.

Table 5. The ratio of metric and inch threads, as well as the selection of hole size for drilling

Metric thread				Inch thread				Pipe thread
Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	Threaded hole diameter		Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	Threaded hole diameter		Thread diameter	Threaded hole diameter
Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	min.	Max.	Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	min.	Max.	Thread diameter	Threaded hole diameter
M1	0,25	0,75	0,8	3/16	1,058	3,6	3,7	1/8	8,8
M1.4	0,3	1,1	1,15	1/4	1,270	5,0	5,1	1/4	11,7
M1.7	0,35	1,3	1,4	5/16	1,411	6,4	6,5	3/8	15,2
M2	0,4	1,5	1,6	3/8	1,588	7,7	7,9	1/2	18,6
M2.6	0,4	2,1	2,2	7/16	1,814	9,1	9,25	3/4	24,3
M3	0,5	2,4	2,5	1/2	2,117	10,25	10,5	1	30,5
M3.5	0,6	2,8	2,9	9/16	2,117	11,75	12,0	—	—
M4	0,7	3,2	3,4	5/8	2,309	13,25	13,5	11/4	39,2
M5	0,8	4,1	4,2	3/4	2,540	16,25	16,5	13/8	41,6
M6	1,0	4,8	5,0	7/8	2,822	19,00	19,25	11/2	45,1
M8	1,25	6,5	6,7	1	3,175	21,75	22,0	—	—
M10	1,5	8,2	8,4	11/8	3,629	24,5	24,75	—	—
M12	1,75	9,9	10,0	11/4	3,629	27,5	27,75	—	—
M14	2,0	11,5	11,75	13/8	4,233	30,5	30,5	—	—
M16	2,0	13,5	13,75	—	—	—	—	—	—
M18	2,5	15,0	15,25	11/2	4,333	33,0	33,5	—	—
M20	2,5	17,0	17,25	15/8	6,080	35,0	35,5	—	—
M22	2,6	19,0	19,25	13/4	5,080	33,5	39,0	—	—
M24	3,0	20,5	20,75	17/8	5,644	41,0	41,5	—	—

Through holes

Through holes penetrate the workpiece completely, forming a passage through it. A special feature of the process is to protect the surface of the workbench or tabletop from the drill going beyond the workpiece, which can damage the drill itself, as well as provide the workpiece with a “burr” - a burr. To avoid this, use the following methods:

use a workbench with a hole;
put a wooden gasket or a “sandwich” under the part - wood + metal + wood;
place a metal block with a hole for free passage of the drill under the part;
reduce the feed rate at the last stage.

The latter method is required when drilling holes “in situ” so as not to damage nearby surfaces or parts.

Holes in thin sheet metal are cut with feather drills, since a twist drill will damage the edges of the workpiece.

Blind holes

Such holes are made to a certain depth and do not penetrate through the workpiece. There are two ways to measure depth:

limiting the length of the drill with a sleeve stop;
limiting the length of the drill with a chuck with adjustable stop;
using a ruler attached to the machine;
a combination of methods.

Some machines are equipped with an automatic feeding system to a given depth, after which the mechanism stops. During the drilling process, you may need to stop work several times to remove chips.

Holes of complex shape

Holes located on the edge of the workpiece (half holes) can be made by connecting the edges and clamping two workpieces or a workpiece and a spacer with a vice and drilling a full hole. The spacer must be made of the same material as the workpiece being processed, otherwise the drill will “go” in the direction of least resistance.

A through hole in a corner (profiled metal) is made by fixing the workpiece in a vice and using wooden spacer.

It is more difficult to drill a cylindrical workpiece tangentially. The process is divided into two operations: preparing a platform perpendicular to the hole (milling, countersinking) and the actual drilling. Drilling holes in surfaces located at an angle also begins with preparing the site, after which a wooden spacer is inserted between the planes, forming a triangle, and a hole is drilled through the corner.

Hollow parts are drilled, filling the cavity with wood plug.

Shouldered holes are produced using two techniques:

Reaming. The hole is drilled to the full depth with a drill of the smallest diameter, after which it is drilled to a given depth with drills of diameters from smaller to larger. The advantage of the method is a well-centered hole.
Reducing the diameter. A hole is drilled to a specified depth maximum diameter, then the drills are changed with a successive decrease in diameter and deepening of the hole. With this method it is easier to control the depth of each step.

1. Drilling a hole. 2. Diameter reduction

Large diameter holes, ring drilling

Producing large-diameter holes in massive workpieces up to 5-6 mm thick is labor-intensive and costly. Relatively small diameters - up to 30 mm (maximum 40 mm) can be obtained using conical, or better yet, stepped conical drills. For larger diameter holes (up to 100 mm), you will need hollow bimetallic bits or bits with carbide teeth with a center drill. Moreover, craftsmen traditionally recommend Bosch in this case, especially on hard metal, such as steel.

Such annular drilling is less energy-intensive, but can be more costly financially. In addition to drills, the power of the drill and the ability to work at the lowest speeds are important. Moreover, the thicker the metal, the more you will want to make a hole on the machine, and when large quantities holes in a sheet more than 12 mm thick, it is better to immediately look for such an opportunity.

In a thin-sheet workpiece, a large-diameter hole is obtained using narrow-toothed crowns or a milling cutter mounted on a grinder, but the edges in the latter case leave much to be desired.

Deep holes, coolant

Sometimes it is necessary to make a deep hole. In theory, this is a hole whose length is five times larger diameter. In practice, deep drilling is called drilling that requires forced periodic removal of chips and the use of coolants (cutting fluids).

In drilling, coolant is needed primarily to reduce the temperature of the drill and workpiece, which heat up from friction. Therefore, when making holes in copper, which has high thermal conductivity and is itself capable of removing heat, coolant may not be used. Cast iron can be drilled relatively easily and without lubrication (except high-strength).

In production, industrial oils, synthetic emulsions, emulsols and some hydrocarbons are used as coolants. In home workshops you can use:

technical petroleum jelly, castor oil - for soft steels;
laundry soap— for aluminum alloys type D16T;
a mixture of kerosene and castor oil - for duralumin;
soapy water - for aluminum;
turpentine diluted with alcohol - for silumin.

Universal refrigerated liquid can be prepared independently. To do this, you need to dissolve 200 g of soap in a bucket of water, add 5 tablespoons of machine oil, or used, and boil the solution until a homogeneous soap emulsion is obtained. Some craftsmen use lard to reduce friction.

Processed material	Cutting fluid
Steel:
carbon	Emulsion. Sulfurized oil
structural	Sulfurized oil with kerosene
instrumental	Mixed oils
alloyed	Mixed oils
Malleable cast iron	3-5% emulsion
Iron casting	No cooling. 3-5% emulsion. Kerosene
Bronze	No cooling. Mixed oils
Zinc	Emulsion
Brass	No cooling. 3-5% emulsion
Copper	Emulsion. Mixed oils
Nickel	Emulsion
Aluminum and its alloys	No cooling. Emulsion. Blended oils. Kerosene
Stainless, heat-resistant alloys	A mixture of 50% sulfur oil, 30% kerosene, 20% oleic acid (or 80% sulforesol and 20% oleic acid)
Fiberglass, vinyl plastic, plexiglass and so on	3-5% emulsion
Textolite, getinaks	Blowing with compressed air

Deep holes can be made by continuous or circular drilling, and in the latter case, the central rod formed by the rotation of the crown is broken out not entirely, but in parts, weakening it with additional holes of small diameter.

Solid drilling is performed in a well-fixed workpiece with a twist drill, into the channels of which coolant is supplied. Periodically, without stopping the rotation of the drill, you need to remove it and clear the cavity of chips. Working with a twist drill is carried out in stages: first, take a short hole and drill a hole, which is then deepened with a drill of the appropriate size. For significant hole depths, it is advisable to use guide bushings.

With regular drilling deep holes We can recommend purchasing a special machine with automatic coolant supply to the drill and precise alignment.

Drilling according to markings, templates and jigs

You can drill holes according to the markings made or without it - using a template or jig.

The marking is done with a center punch. With a hammer blow, a place is marked for the tip of the drill. You can also mark the place with a felt-tip pen, but the hole is also needed so that the point does not move from the intended point. The work is carried out in two stages: preliminary drilling, hole control, final drilling. If the drill has “moved away” from the intended center, notches (grooves) are made with a narrow chisel, directing the tip to the specified location.

To determine the center of a cylindrical workpiece, use a square piece of sheet metal, bent at 90° so that the height of one arm is approximately one radius. Applying a corner from different sides of the workpiece, draw a pencil along the edge. As a result, you have an area around the center. You can find the center using the theorem - by the intersection of perpendiculars from two chords.

A template is needed when making a series of similar parts with several holes. It is convenient to use for a pack of thin-sheet workpieces connected with a clamp. This way you can get several drilled workpieces at the same time. Instead of a template, a drawing or diagram is sometimes used, for example, in the manufacture of parts for radio equipment.

The jig is used when precision in maintaining the distances between holes and strict perpendicularity of the channel is very important. When drilling deep holes or when working with thin-walled tubes, in addition to the jig, guides can be used to fix the position of the drill relative to the metal surface.

When working with power tools, it is important to remember human safety and prevent premature wear of the tool and possible defects. In this regard, we have collected some useful tips:

Before work, you need to check the fastenings of all elements.
When working on a machine or with an electric drill, clothing should not contain elements that could be affected by rotating parts. Protect your eyes from chips with glasses.
When approaching the metal surface, the drill must already be rotating, otherwise it will quickly become dull.
You need to remove the drill from the hole without turning off the drill, reducing the speed if possible.
If the drill does not penetrate deep into the metal, it means that its hardness is lower than that of the workpiece. Increased hardness of steel can be detected by running a file over the sample - the absence of traces indicates increased hardness. In this case, the drill must be selected from carbide with additives and operated at low speeds with low feed.
If a small-diameter drill does not fit well in the chuck, wrap a few turns of brass wire around its shank, increasing the grip diameter.
If the surface of the workpiece is polished, put a felt washer on the drill to ensure that it does not cause scratches even when it comes into contact with the drill chuck. When fastening workpieces made of polished or chrome-plated steel, use fabric or leather spacers.
When making deep holes, a rectangular piece of foam placed on a drill can serve as a meter and at the same time, while rotating, blow away small chips.

There comes a time in every person’s life when it is necessary to make repairs to a house or apartment. And then the question arises about remodeling the space: moving sockets, updating wiring and drilling other holes to bring the design project of the room to life.

In the process of performing work, a variety of tools and drills are used. Of course, customers always prefer more powerful models. Available on the market big choice a tool with which work is organized.

Selection principles

Most cases involve the use of hammer drills. This tool always has more power in reserve; it allows you to pierce even very thick walls. With this tool you can always drill into large areas. It is advisable to use it in the following situations:

when you need to make a hole up to 10 - 12 mm in size;
when many holes need to be drilled. Moreover, the size of each of them is supposed to be quite large;
when working on coatings containing foam.

All craftsmen should know that drills can be classified according to their impact power. Some models can be used for drilling concrete, while others are designed for use with specific attachments. It is important that the alloy from which the nozzles are made is of high quality. High-quality alloys ensure that the drill for a long time will not fail.

It all depends on the nozzle

Before starting repairs, it is necessary to draw up a small estimate for installation work in order to understand exactly what equipment will be needed in the process.

All drill attachments can be divided by type of work:

for making holes;
for corner drilling;
drill stops;
for grinding;
for cutting;
for polishing;
mixer attachments.

And also by the type of material on which the work takes place:

concrete;
tile;
tree;
metal.

Important factors are also the length of the equipment and the alloy from which the nozzle is made.

What kind of work may require drilling:

laying plumbing lines;
gating walls for laying electrical cables;
drilling socket boxes;
small holes for wall cabinets and shelves.

How to drill concrete evenly with a drill

First you need to know exactly what you have chosen required nozzle. Drilling must always be done at low speeds. Typically, the tool is in use for 10 or 12 minutes. During this time, it is guaranteed that it will not overheat and accidentally break. If the tool drill accidentally remains in the thickness of the wall, you must carefully remove it. You cannot use force. Perhaps the drill will break and its fragments will remain in the thickness of the wall. If necessary, the drill can be easily detached from the attachment.

The drill must be held strictly perpendicular to the surface. If this is not observed, there is a risk of damaging the drill and sometimes leaving a dent. It is also important to ensure that drilling dust does not get into your eyes. To do this, purchase safety glasses. You can also use gloves to prevent your hands from slipping during technological process. Only a person who has sufficient Strong arms. Because the process requires significant effort.

Features of working with concrete pavement

First we select a drill. If the wall is made of concrete or brickwork It is better to give preference to pobedit bits, since this tool turns the material into crumbs at the drilling site. But it is not suitable for other surfaces, for example, if you drill with it wooden boards the fibers will tear and the hole will be sloppy.

When drilling concrete surface It must be taken into account that there will be a lot of dust, so you need to prepare a vacuum cleaner to collect debris from the hole. This, of course, does not guarantee absolute cleanliness when performing work, but it allows you to reduce the amount of dirt.

Before you start drilling, you need to check whether there are any communications in that place. Damage to electrical wiring will result in the infusion of additional Money in its restoration. The wall must first be ringed; for this you can use an alarm or a metal detector.

Now you can proceed directly to drilling holes in concrete wall. First, we outline the place where the future hole will be with a construction pencil. We start drilling at low speed, this will improve the accuracy of the work. After this we increase the speed. The drill must enter the surface at one angle so that the drilling direction does not go astray and the hole is of the desired size.

If a hole is made for a dowel, it should be longer than the dowel itself so that it can be installed flush with the wall and not stick out.

How to drill into tiles with a drill

Ceramic surfaces have proven to be particularly fragile coatings. The outcome of drilling in such areas is determined by the quality of laying the tiles themselves. If the master performing the work did not make mistakes during installation work, then the drilling process should proceed without interference. Proper installation means one in which no empty zones are formed between the wall and the coating. If there are voids between the tile and the wall, the tile may burst or break off during drilling.

We start by choosing a drill. There are specialized attachments for ceramics and glass, but you can also use equipment for concrete with pobedite coating. It is important that the concrete drill is new enough, otherwise it will slide along the tiles and scratch the base, which will lead to damage to the masonry.

The process of drilling tiles should take place at low speeds to prevent chipping of the glaze coating decorative surface. After drilling the ceramics, change the drill; if you are using a drill for ceramics, make a hole in the wall.

How to drill wood surfaces with a drill

Wood is the easiest material to drill. But there are also certain features of the technological process that must be observed so as not to spoil the surface and not to break the equipment. Speed parameters depend on type wood covering. Loose samples are easy to drill. The following types of wood equipment can be distinguished:

flat or feather;
twisted, they are also single-spiral;
crowns, also called core drills;
cylindrical nozzles of the Forstner type.

Select a drill. As a rule, for small holes (less than 1.2 cm), metal equipment is used; if you need a larger diameter, you will have to fork out for a specialized wood drill.

For large holes must be applied ring crowns. Forstner-type crowns are ideal for drilling blind areas.

Particular attention must be paid to drilling the timber. Despite the fact that it is very convenient to fix, its thickness often becomes negative factor, complicating the work. If the timber standard size, then usually take drills up to 25 mm. The drilling process always takes place at low speeds.

How to drill a brick wall

Drilling brick with a drill is a simple process. An impact drill is used for work. If drilling is unstressed, the drilling process may take a long time. It is very important that the tool operates at high power. Quantitative indicators of revolutions per minute are also important. Indicators of more than 2,000 revolutions are considered the most acceptable.

Of course, to perform better work, a hammer drill is used. If it is not at hand, then use high-power drills. To drill a hole you do not need any special knowledge. The main thing is to follow a number of simple recommendations mentioned above. Sometimes you can stumble upon a burnt stone. It will be quite difficult to form a cavity in it. Such a brick is identified by the dust generated during operation. It becomes a pronounced black shade.

To create holes in burnt rocks, you need to turn on the drill at low speeds and set the impact function. You need to press very hard on the tool for the impact function to work correctly. It is also important to ensure that the drill does not overheat during operation. A severely overheated drill causes the edges of the drill to wear out quickly. For such purposes, a diamond-coated drill is most often used. This way the clutch is most effective. This leads to significant savings in physical effort and energy.

Sometimes situations arise when the hole made needs to be made of a significant diameter. For example, this could be a ventilation outlet. It will be very difficult to organize such work ordinary tool. You will need powerful equipment and crowns big size.

Work with large diameters

At the beginning of the work, the area where the hole should be formed is outlined. It is important to observe dimensions here. When the hole diameter is 100 mm, then the circle needs to be drawn at approximately 20 mm. This is typical for situations where the drill deviates from the working circle. Even a small shift can damage the surface if this is not taken into account from the very beginning. You need to make sure that the drill goes through the walls. Only in such a situation can you be sure that the hole will be made correctly.

How to drill walls correctly with a drill

If such a question arises, then most likely we are talking about how exactly you need to hold the tool in your hands so that you do not get a hole that is too large. If you need to make a hole at an angle, you need to use special nozzles to the drill. To fix the tool on the surface, you can purchase a stop attachment; this will allow you to drill more accurately and the drill will not go in another direction.

Safety precautions

Compliance with these rules guarantees that the work will be successfully carried out without harm to human health. Before any work, it is important to inspect the surface. If a small element is being drilled, then most likely it will need to be secured in a special vice. For example, if we're talking about about the beam. Never place a work element in a poorly fixed spindle.

There should be no hanging ends on the worker's overalls. The shirt is usually tucked into the trousers. Under no circumstances should clothing be cleaned during work, as this can lead to serious consequences. Masters use protective glasses - masks to protect the skin of the face and eyes.

To prevent the tool from slipping out of your hands while working, you must wear gloves. If the drill is massive, then it is best to carry out work with rubber gloves. They not only help ensure that the instrument does not slip out of your hands, but also prevent various injuries to the skin of the hands.

Be sure to hold the tool with both hands. Do not work while standing on stairs or other poorly secured surfaces. Do not use blunt equipment, this will increase the time required construction work. Do not insert or remove a drill using an adjustable wrench - this will damage the chuck and tool. Do not use the drill in snow or rain, even light rain - this can lead to a short circuit and electric shock.

Whatever work needs to be done with a drill, it is important to remember that the quality of the work performed directly depends on taking into account the features of drilling. The main thing is to believe in yourself and not stray from the planned work plan.

The ability to drill holes in concrete is a fairly useful and convenient skill. With it, you can easily hang shelves, hang pictures, install lamps and do a lot more work around the house quickly and safely. The process of drilling concrete is quite simple, but with correct selection tools and understanding of operating principles you will save yourself great amount time.

Steps

Part 1

Preparing for work

Buy or rent an impact drill. It is easier to drill holes in concrete with an impact drill or hammer drill (in case major works). These tools will allow you to crush concrete with reciprocating blows of the drill and extract the resulting crumbs by rotating it. Doing this type of work with a conventional drill will be slow and difficult, since concrete does not drill as easily as wood or metal. For any job that will involve more than drilling a few holes in decorative (rather than structural) concrete surfaces, such as modern softer ones kitchen countertops made of stone chips, don’t skimp on paying a little more to rent a percussion instrument.

Learn the tool. Read the owner's manual and memorize the functions of all buttons and switches on the instrument. You should have a good understanding of how to handle the tool before moving on to the next step.

Follow safety precautions. This includes wearing safety glasses to prevent concrete chips from getting into your eyes, using earplugs to protect your hearing, and thick work gloves to protect your hands from increased friction and hot drill bits. For long work where there is a lot of dust, it is also recommended to wear a respirator.

Insert a high-quality concrete drill bit into the tool. Concrete drill bits with carbide tips (or, as the packaging may indicate, “impact drill bits”) are specifically designed for impact drills and withstand the load that occurs during impact drilling of strong concrete. The length of the fluted drill bit should be no less than the depth of the hole you are going to drill, as these flutes are important for removing generated dust from the hole.

Adjust the drilling depth. Some drills have the ability to adjust the drilling depth or a special limiter. Read the tool's user manual to learn how to use it. If your tool does not have a drill depth stop, measure and mark the required hole depth on the drill itself with a pencil or masking tape. If you are unsure about the depth of holes you need, follow the guidelines below.

Hold the drill correctly. Hold the drill with one hand like a pistol, resting forefinger to the start button. If your drill has an extra handle, use your other hand to hold it for a more secure grip. Otherwise, simply grab the drill from below with your other hand, closer to the back of the body.

Part 2
Drilling concrete
1. Mark the point for drilling the hole. Using a soft pencil, place a mark on the wall in the form of a dot or cross in the place where you want to drill a hole.
  
  Drill a pilot hole. Place the drill bit on the mark and run it briefly slow speed(if it is adjustable on your device) or make several short presses on the start button (if there is no speed adjustment). You should be left with a 3-6mm indentation that will help you guide the drill correctly when drilling the main hole.
  
  Continue drilling, but with more force. Switch to impact mode (if your drill has one). Place the drill on the basting hole strictly perpendicular to the concrete surface. Start drilling again using firm, but not excessive, pressure on the drill until the drill bit begins to sink into the concrete. Gradually increase the rotation speed of the drill and the pressure on it if necessary, but remember that the drill must remain under your full control and in a stable position at all times. Concrete is quite heterogeneous and the drill can easily slip if it hits an air pocket or void.

The work of drilling holes in metal, depending on the type of holes and the properties of the metal, can be performed with different tools and using different techniques.

We want to tell you about drilling methods, tools, as well as safety precautions when performing this work.

Drilling holes in metal may be necessary when repairing engineering systems, household appliances, cars, creating structures from sheet and profile steel, constructing crafts from aluminum and copper, when making circuit boards for radio equipment and in many other cases. It is important to understand what tool is needed for each type of work so that the holes are of the required diameter and in the strictly intended location, and what safety measures will help avoid injuries.

Tools, fixtures, drills

The main tools for drilling are hand and electric drills, and, if possible, drill presses. The working body of these mechanisms - the drill - can have different shapes.

Drills are distinguished:

spiral (most common);
screw;
crowns;
conical;
feathers, etc.

The production of drills of various designs is standardized by numerous GOSTs. Drills up to Ø 2 mm are not marked, up to Ø 3 mm - the section and steel grade are indicated on the shank; larger diameters may contain additional information. To obtain a hole of a certain diameter, you need to take a drill a few tenths of a millimeter smaller. The better the drill is sharpened, the smaller the difference between these diameters.

Drills differ not only in diameter, but also in length - short, elongated and long are produced. The maximum hardness of the metal being processed is also important information. The drill shank can be cylindrical or conical, which should be kept in mind when selecting a drill chuck or adapter sleeve.

Some jobs and materials require special sharpening. The harder the metal being processed, the sharper the edge should be sharpened. For thin sheet metal, a regular twist drill may not be suitable; you will need a tool with a special sharpening. Detailed recommendations for various types of drills and processed metals (thickness, hardness, type of hole) are quite extensive, and we will not consider them in this article.

Various types of drill sharpening. 1. For hard steel. 2. For stainless steel. 3. For copper and copper alloys. 4. For aluminum and aluminum alloys. 5. For cast iron. 6. Bakelite

1. Standard sharpening. 2. Free sharpening. 3. Diluted sharpening. 4. Heavy sharpening. 5. Separate sharpening

To chamfer and process the surface of the channel, a cylindrical or conical countersink is used, and to mark the point for drilling and so that the drill does not “jump off”, a hammer and a center punch are used.

Advice! The best drills are still considered to be those produced in the USSR - they strictly follow GOST in terms of geometry and metal composition. German Ruko with titanium coating is also good, as well as drills from Bosch - proven quality. Good reviews of Haisser products - powerful, usually with a large diameter. The Zubr drills, especially the Cobalt series, performed well.

Drilling modes

It is very important to correctly secure and guide the drill, as well as select the cutting mode.

Use the tables to choose the right mode and avoid dulling the drill prematurely.

Feed S 0 , mm/rev	Drill diameter D, mm
	2,5	4	6	8	10	12	146	20	25	32
	Cutting speed v, m/min
*When drilling steel*
0,06	17	22	26	30	33	42	-	-	-	-
0,10	-	17	20	23	26	28	32	38	40	44
0,15	-	-	18	20	22	24	27	30	33	35
0,20	-	-	15	17	18	20	23	25	27	30
0,30	-	-	-	14	16	17	19	21	23	25
0,40	-	-	-	-	-	14	16	18	19	21
0,60	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	14	15	11
*When drilling cast iron*
0,06	18	22	25	27	29	30	32	33	34	35
0,10	-	18	20	22	23	24	26	27	28	30
0,15	-	15	17	18	19	20	22	23	25	26
0,20	-	-	15	16	17	18	19	20	21	22
0,30	-	-	13	14	15	16	17	18	19	19
0,40	-	-	-	-	14	14	15	16	16	17
0,60	-	-	-	-	-	-	13	14	15	15
0,80	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	13
*When drilling aluminum alloys*
0,06	75	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-
0,10	53	70	81	92	100	-	-	-	-	-
0,15	39	53	62	69	75	81	90	-	-	-
0,20	-	43	50	56	62	67	74	82	–	–
0,30	-	-	42	48	52	56	62	68	75	-
0,40	-	-	-	40	45	48	53	59	64	69
0,60	-	-	-	-	37	39	44	48	52	56
0,80	-	-	-	-	-	-	38	42	46	54
1,00	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	42

Table 2. Correction factors

Table 3. Revolutions and feed for different drill diameters and drilling carbon steel

Types of holes in metal and methods of drilling them

Types of holes:

deaf;
end-to-end;
half (incomplete);
deep;
large diameter;
for internal thread.

Threaded holes require diameters to be determined with the tolerances established in GOST 16093–2004. For common hardware, the calculation is given in Table 5.

Table 5. The ratio of metric and inch threads, as well as the selection of hole size for drilling

Metric thread				Inch thread				Pipe thread
Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	Threaded hole diameter		Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	Threaded hole diameter		Thread diameter	Threaded hole diameter
Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	min.	Max.	Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	min.	Max.	Thread diameter	Threaded hole diameter
M1	0,25	0,75	0,8	3/16	1,058	3,6	3,7	1/8	8,8
M1.4	0,3	1,1	1,15	1/4	1,270	5,0	5,1	1/4	11,7
M1.7	0,35	1,3	1,4	5/16	1,411	6,4	6,5	3/8	15,2
M2	0,4	1,5	1,6	3/8	1,588	7,7	7,9	1/2	18,6
M2.6	0,4	2,1	2,2	7/16	1,814	9,1	9,25	3/4	24,3
M3	0,5	2,4	2,5	1/2	2,117	10,25	10,5	1	30,5
M3.5	0,6	2,8	2,9	9/16	2,117	11,75	12,0	-	-
M4	0,7	3,2	3,4	5/8	2,309	13,25	13,5	11/4	39,2
M5	0,8	4,1	4,2	3/4	2,540	16,25	16,5	13/8	41,6
M6	1,0	4,8	5,0	7/8	2,822	19,00	19,25	11/2	45,1
M8	1,25	6,5	6,7	1	3,175	21,75	22,0	-	-
M10	1,5	8,2	8,4	11/8	3,629	24,5	24,75	-	-
M12	1,75	9,9	10,0	11/4	3,629	27,5	27,75	-	-
M14	2,0	11,5	11,75	13/8	4,233	30,5	30,5	-	-
M16	2,0	13,5	13,75	-	-	-	-	-	-
M18	2,5	15,0	15,25	11/2	4,333	33,0	33,5	-	-
M20	2,5	17,0	17,25	15/8	6,080	35,0	35,5	-	-
M22	2,6	19,0	19,25	13/4	5,080	33,5	39,0	-	-
M24	3,0	20,5	20,75	17/8	5,644	41,0	41,5	-	-

Through holes

Through holes penetrate the workpiece completely, forming a passage through it. A feature of the process is to protect the surface of the workbench or tabletop from the drill going beyond the workpiece, which can damage the drill itself, as well as provide the workpiece with a “burr” - a burr. To avoid this, use the following methods:

use a workbench with a hole;
put a wooden gasket or a “sandwich” under the part - wood + metal + wood;
place a metal block with a hole for free passage of the drill under the part;
reduce the feed rate at the last stage.

The latter method is required when drilling holes “in situ” so as not to damage nearby surfaces or parts.

Holes in thin sheet metal are cut with feather drills, since a twist drill will damage the edges of the workpiece.

Blind holes

Such holes are made to a certain depth and do not penetrate through the workpiece. There are two ways to measure depth:

limiting the length of the drill with a sleeve stop;
limiting the length of the drill with a chuck with an adjustable stop;
using a ruler attached to the machine;
a combination of methods.

Some machines are equipped with an automatic feeding system to a given depth, after which the mechanism stops. During the drilling process, you may need to stop work several times to remove chips.

Holes of complex shape

A through hole in a corner (profiled metal) is made by fixing the workpiece in a vice and using a wooden spacer.

Hollow parts are drilled, filling the cavity with wood plug.

Shouldered holes are produced using two techniques:

Reaming. The hole is drilled to the full depth with a drill of the smallest diameter, after which it is drilled to a given depth with drills of diameters from smaller to larger. The advantage of the method is a well-centered hole.
Reducing the diameter. A hole of maximum diameter is drilled to a given depth, then the drills are changed with a successive decrease in diameter and deepening of the hole. With this method it is easier to control the depth of each step.

1. Drilling a hole. 2. Diameter reduction

Large diameter holes, ring drilling

Producing large-diameter holes in massive workpieces up to 5–6 mm thick is labor-intensive and costly. Relatively small diameters - up to 30 mm (maximum 40 mm) can be obtained using conical, or better yet, stepped conical drills. For larger diameter holes (up to 100 mm), you will need hollow bimetallic bits or bits with carbide teeth with a center drill. Moreover, craftsmen traditionally recommend Bosch in this case, especially on hard metal, such as steel.

Such annular drilling is less energy-intensive, but can be more costly financially. In addition to drills, the power of the drill and the ability to work at the lowest speeds are important. Moreover, the thicker the metal, the more you will want to make a hole on the machine, and with a large number of holes in a sheet more than 12 mm thick, it is better to immediately look for such an opportunity.

In a thin-sheet workpiece, a large-diameter hole is obtained using narrow-toothed crowns or a milling cutter mounted on a grinder, but the edges in the latter case leave much to be desired.

Deep holes, coolant

Sometimes it is necessary to make a deep hole. In theory, this is a hole whose length is five times its diameter. In practice, deep drilling is called drilling that requires forced periodic removal of chips and the use of coolants (cutting fluids).

In production, industrial oils, synthetic emulsions, emulsols and some hydrocarbons are used as coolants. In home workshops you can use:

technical petroleum jelly, castor oil - for soft steels;
laundry soap - for aluminum alloys type D16T;
a mixture of kerosene and castor oil - for duralumin;
soapy water - for aluminum;
turpentine diluted with alcohol - for silumin.

Processed material	Cutting fluid
Steel:
carbon	Emulsion. Sulfurized oil
structural	Sulfurized oil with kerosene
instrumental	Mixed oils
alloyed	Mixed oils
Malleable cast iron	3-5% emulsion
Iron casting	No cooling. 3-5% emulsion. Kerosene
Bronze	No cooling. Mixed oils
Zinc	Emulsion
Brass	No cooling. 3-5% emulsion
Copper	Emulsion. Mixed oils
Nickel	Emulsion
Aluminum and its alloys	No cooling. Emulsion. Blended oils. Kerosene
Stainless, heat-resistant alloys	A mixture of 50% sulfur oil, 30% kerosene, 20% oleic acid (or 80% sulforesol and 20% oleic acid)
Fiberglass, vinyl plastic, plexiglass and so on	3-5% emulsion
Textolite, getinaks	Blowing with compressed air

When regularly drilling deep holes, we can recommend purchasing a special machine with automatic coolant supply to the drill and precise alignment.

Drilling according to markings, templates and jigs

You can drill holes according to the markings made or without it - using a template or jig.

To determine the center of a cylindrical workpiece, use a square piece of sheet metal, bent at 90° so that the height of one arm is approximately one radius. Applying a corner from different sides of the workpiece, draw a pencil along the edge. As a result, you have an area around the center. You can find the center using the theorem - the intersection of perpendiculars from two chords.

When working with power tools, it is important to remember human safety and prevent premature wear of the tool and possible defects. In this regard, we have collected some useful tips:

Before work, you need to check the fastenings of all elements.
When working on a machine or with an electric drill, clothing should not contain elements that could be affected by rotating parts. Protect your eyes from chips with glasses.
When approaching the metal surface, the drill must already be rotating, otherwise it will quickly become dull.
You need to remove the drill from the hole without turning off the drill, reducing the speed if possible.
If the drill does not penetrate deep into the metal, it means that its hardness is lower than that of the workpiece. Increased hardness of steel can be detected by running a file over the sample - the absence of traces indicates increased hardness. In this case, the drill must be selected from carbide with additives and operated at low speeds with low feed.
If a small-diameter drill does not fit well in the chuck, wrap a few turns of brass wire around its shank, increasing the grip diameter.
If the surface of the workpiece is polished, put a felt washer on the drill to ensure that it does not cause scratches even when it comes into contact with the drill chuck. When fastening workpieces made of polished or chrome-plated steel, use fabric or leather spacers.
When making deep holes, a rectangular piece of foam placed on a drill can serve as a meter and at the same time, while rotating, blow away small chips.