How to make drying oil. Drying oil. Basic manufacturing methods. Types and brands of oil drying oils

Modern market offers a wide variety Construction Materials, however, the old and time-tested drying oil, natural, linen, does not lose its position. We'll tell you about specifications, composition and use of this product.

Composition, GOST and types of natural drying oil

Natural linseed drying oil contains linseed oil that has been processed at high temperatures. The finished oil is an almost transparent liquid with a light yellow tint. According to GOSTs, natural drying oil should contain only two components:

97 % linseed oil;
3% driers - metal particles or carbon salts that accelerate the drying process of drying oil.

Also, according to GOSTs, lead, cobalt and manganese act as driers, the use of which greatly reduces the natural drying time - from a week to literally one day. If the natural drying oil, for which we just talked about GOST standards, contains any additional substances, you should not take it. Most likely, it will be a low-quality product. Also divided into 2 types:

standard (polymer), which is manufactured using heat treatment without blowing;
oxidized, created in a way simmering oil for high temperatures with purging.

Technical characteristics of linseed oil - what are its features?

The production of natural drying oil must be carried out according to the standards of GOST 7931-76. According to the requirements, the characteristics of the oil must meet a number of indicators:

drying speed - about a day at an average temperature of 20 ° C;
pleasant aroma;
the density should be a maximum of 0.95 g/m 3 ;
transparency of the composition after settling for 24 hours;
presence of phosphorus-containing elements in the composition - no more than 0.02%.

Now let's look at why many people choose natural drying oil. Technical characteristics distinguish it from oxols, combined solutions - substances that are included in many other compositions, for example, white spirit.

If we talk about the advantages of drying oil, they are as follows:

mechanical stability;
wide range of uses;
almost 100% impervious to moisture;
opportunity to save consumables(for example, during final finishing with paint).

But you need to remember that everyone is yours positive sides Drying oil can only develop if its technical characteristics and composition comply with GOST standards.

Where is drying oil used - we protect various coatings

Drying oil can also be treated metal surfaces, in this case the composition acts as a primer. If you are going to restore furniture or paint wood products, the oil will protect against moisture and restore color. By the way, drying oil is also used to create a finishing layer when finishing floors, since it will protect coatings from mechanical damage and moisture, which wood is very afraid of.

Before telling how to use the composition correctly, you need to understand the principle of action of the substance. Thus, the oil polymerizes when exposed to light and oxygen, after which part of the product penetrates into the material, and the other part creates a thin layer. It is this that protects the processed material from moisture and damage. Even if drying oil meets all standards and GOSTs, its improper use can lead to loss of oil properties .

So, before applying the composition, it is necessary to clean the surface from dust and dirt, it must also be dry, and the wood should be sanded.

Apply oil in 2-3 layers, everything will depend on the requirements appearance of the processed product and the required level of protection. For processing, either a brush or a large brush is used. Approximate consumption per one square meter– about 80 gr. After completing the work, throw away the rags and roller, and ventilate the room. If allowed weather, in the room where processing is carried out, you need to open windows and doors. Products treated with oil can be used after a day.

Thus, drying oil, which complies with all GOST standards and contains natural ingredients, becomes an alternative to many modern protective equipment. If you still can’t choose what to use to finish and protect the wood, then linseed oil will become ideal solution.

“I want ships not to sink in the blue sea.” The desire of the hero of a Soviet-era song is not enough. In the old days, it helped ships stay afloat drying oil. It was used to coat the boards of ships, protecting them from the destructive effects of water.

What is drying oil?

Drying oil- oily liquid. It forms a film on surfaces, like oil on water. The color of drying oil can be yellowish, brown, or cherry. The tone depends on the base of the substance.

Depending on the color of the base substance, drying oil comes in different shades

It is created during the oxidation of vegetable oils. Only those containing linolenic acid are suitable. It determines the ability of oils to dry.

Pour a little into a saucer, leave it in the fresh air, and there you have it, thick lubricant. Applied to the surface, it dries completely, becoming a hard but elastic film.

80 percent maximum linolenic acid in flaxseed oil. 10% less in hemp. 30-50% of the linoleic compound is found in nut, sunflower and poppy oils.

However, without stimulation natural drying oil they are made over the course of many months. Industrialists have learned to speed up the process. The sources are boiling. It’s not for nothing that in the old days drying oil was called boiled oil.

When heated, the components of oils that inhibit drying decompose. At the same time, the oxidation of liquids accelerates. The heating here is insignificant. Metal salts, such as manganese, added to oils help. They thicken mixtures within 6-36 hours.

Flaxseed oil It turns out light, almost transparent. A dark composition is formed from hemp oil. However, these drying oils dry the same way, about 24 hours. The sunflower mixture takes the longest to harden. In addition, it is inferior to others in moisture resistance.

Drying oil can also dry out in containers. Typically, the mixture is packaged in glass or plastic bottles. In them, the thickening process of oils is minimized, but does not stop.

New portions of oxygen enter the container when it is opened. Using one bottle for a long time forces you to decide how and with what to dilute the drying oil. Let's write down the answers: castor oil, turpentine, white spirit, organic acids. Paint thinners are also suitable. Usually, for 10 parts of drying oil take 1 solvent.

It is not recommended to experiment with drying oil thinners. The oily mixture is flammable. When reacting with “suspicious” solvents, drying oil can ignite and cause a fire.

Where is drying oil used?

Drying oil for wood– the main application of the heroine of the article. By impregnating the cellulose fibers, the oily liquid not only protects them from rotting and insects, but also decorates them.

The color of the mixture is transferred to the wood, emphasizing its structure. In other words, buy drying oil Can be used as a stain. The only difference is that the classic ones are water-soluble and were invented in the 19th century. Drying oil is not diluted with water and has been known to mankind for millennia.

Metal products are also coated with drying oil. Alloys, like wood, protect against moisture. It oxidizes metals. This is the cause of rust. Some alloys are not subject to it, for example, the noble group, aluminum and zinc.

But non-galvanized steel deteriorates from atmospheric moisture. By forming a waterproof film on the surface of the metal, drying oil extends the service life of products made from it.

In interior decoration premises drying oil consumption is laid down as . This is the name for compounds applied to walls prepared for finishing layer, for example, painting.

By covering the plastered surfaces with a thick film, drying oil blocks the penetration of pigments into the walls. As a result, the whiteness of the finishing plaster is maintained and paint consumption is reduced.

True, the savings are imaginary. Natural drying oil road. For every square meter of plastered walls, 80-150 milliliters of an oily mixture are used. This is when priming in 1 layer. It is recommended to apply drying oil in 2 layers.

Before painting with drying oil, you can cover any porous surfaces, even a sponge. Paints adhere better to an oily film. The problem is that the final coating does not hide the acrid smell of drying oil.

Its “aroma” disappears within a few days. Buckets of water placed around the room can speed up the process. By the way, a pungent odor is characteristic only of composite drying oil. We will explain what the concept means in the next chapter.

Drying oil is used as an additive in oil paints and putties. The latter can be made at home using crushed chalk, plaster and wood glue. You will get the most natural and reliable composition.

Drying oil protects wooden surfaces from moisture and rotting

Drying oil in it is a bonding agent. By binding loose masses, the oily substance facilitates the application of putty and its adhesion to the surface. Plus, drying oil blocks the development of mold on a layer of chalk and gypsum. Fungi attack plaster and putties, just like wood.

Types of drying oil

Natural drying oil was the one and only until the 20th century. But, with the advent of more effective and available alternatives, the heroine of the article was relegated to secondary roles. In the 21st century, for example, glaze primers are more often purchased.

They contain polymers derived from petroleum products. However, drying oil is not all natural. “Fighting” for market share, the oily mixture has become multifaceted. Let's figure it out modern types:

Composite drying oil. Its composition is dominated by petroleum-polymer resins. Their evaporation is the cause of the strong smell of drying oil and, at the same time, harm to the body. But composite mixtures are available and compete in price with alternative ones.

Only the latter have GOST standards. For composite drying oil state standard absent. Manufacturers rely only on technical specification. Therefore, the “recipe” of mixtures in the category is “a pig in a poke.”

To prevent it from “scratching”, composite drying oils are prohibited from being used indoors. The compositions are intended exclusively for outdoor work, for example, protecting courtyard gazebos.

Oxol. A counterweight combined drying oil manufactured according to GOST number “190-78”. Vegetable oils in mixtures 55%. Most formulations, however, include sunflower. Linen drying oil-oxol takes up only 25% of the total output.

About 40% white spirit and 5-10% drier are added to the oils in the mixtures. The latter concept hides metal salts that accelerate the hardening of drying oil. In other words, Oksol is an improved version regular mixture oils

The new product dries faster, is easier to apply, and costs less. The smell of Oxol is a little sharper than that of the natural one. The solvent is white spirit. It contains aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons. That is, there is an oil component in Oksol.

Natural drying oil. It consists of 97% vegetable oils. Use flaxseed, sunflower or hemp pomace. There is only 3% of drier in mixtures of the group. Regulates proportions GOST

Drying oil“submits” to regulations numbered “7931-76”. It also spells out restrictions on the use of natural mixtures. They are only suitable for interior work.

Let's return to the discussion of synthetic drying oil. It has subspecies, just like the natural one. Not only resins are used as composites, but also naphthenic acid salts and shale oil.

Therefore, polydiene, ethylene, synthol and shale drying oils are found on store shelves. Only the latter provides a weather-resistant film. We are talking about a coating that can withstand aggressive environments.

Maintaining aesthetics and performance characteristics. Therefore, it is slate drying oil that is most suitable for outdoor work, although it is not natural.

Drying oil price and reviews about it

All-natural drying oil is a rare offering. Production has been reduced due to minimal demand, which, in turn, is due to the price tag. So, for a 1.8-liter bottle of flax mixture they ask for at least 700 rubles. A similar volume of Oksol costs 300-400 rubles, and for synthetics they ask for only 180-230 rubles.

You can save on large volumes. So, a 10-liter flask with Oxol costs 1,000-1,300 rubles. But, as you know, savings can be imaginary. Let's find out if it's so good drying oil Price– this is the second question.

Let's start with a review of natural drying oil based on linseed oil. A certain Kiev resident took advantage of this. His comment can be found on the Drying Oil forum. Who can say what?

So, the Kiev resident writes: “I processed country windows. The first layer was coated with a hot mixture. The second one was placed cold. Looks like varnish. 4 years have passed, and my shutters in the sun and near the sea are like new.”

The father of a formum resident with the nickname TT covered the lining with linseed oil wooden house. What remains is disappointment. TT writes: “For 5 years it still hasn’t dried out, I personally peeled it off with a spatula and varnished it. Now, ironically, I sell drying oil, and I realized that my father took bad synthetics. Now I know which one to take).”

In the old days there was a composition of drying oil that is not available to contemporaries. The oils were boiled together with molten amber. The result was not so much a drying oil as a varnish.

The precious covering was common in Russian villages, especially near Kaliningrad. It is no secret that amber deposits are being developed there.

There is debate as to whether they are the largest in the world, but we cannot dispute the fact that this is the only place where the gem is mined using a quarry. Outside of Russia, amber is collected in placers, usually along the banks of rivers and seas.

Drying oils provide excellent protection of wood products from insects, mold and mildew, and precipitation. In the article we will talk about the classification of such compositions and their features, and also describe in detail one of their most popular varieties.

The compositions we are interested in are made from various oils, to which are added solvents and driers - compounds that include strontium, lead, iron, lithium, cobalt, and other chemicals. elements. All drying oils are divided into:

natural;
alkyd;
combined;
synthetic;
semi-natural.

The natural composition consists of 97% sunflower or linseed oils, which are subjected to heat treatment. The cost of such drying oils is high. Now they are used quite rarely. They are usually used for dilution paint and varnish compositions. The natural composition can be used to treat any wooden surface, provided that it is located indoors. Flax compositions are also used for the production of special lubrication pastes, putties, dilution of thickly rubbed paints and putties.

Semi-natural and combined drying oils have a more affordable price. They differ from natural compositions in that volatile solvents (for example, white spirit) are necessarily added to them. The most famous semi-natural composition is Oksol. We will look at it in the next section. Alkyd drying oils are made from solvent-diluted and oil-modified resins. And synthetic compounds, which are often called composites, are made from rubber processing products, materials from the oil and coal industries. They don't have natural oils. Such drying oils are not used indoors due to their increased toxicity. The only advantage of synthetic solutions is low price.

Oxol - a composition with special characteristics

Drying oil Oxol belongs to the group of semi-natural compounds used to protect wood, produce and dilute paints (on oil based, thickly grated). Let's see what this composition is made of. It contains 55% natural oil, 40% solvent (in most cases - white spirit, less often - nefras or turpentine), 5% drier. The composition is produced in accordance with GOST 190–78. More on its provisions below.

Oxol is divided into two brands. The first - B, is made from hemp and linseed oil. This drying oil can be used for processing wood both indoors and outdoors. The second is PV, made from soybean, camelina, sunflower, grape or corn oil. The composition is used exclusively for interior painting work. Nuance. Both brands of oils are not intended for use on floor surfaces.

Gosstandart 190–78 describes all technical characteristics of Oksol. Let's highlight the most important of them:

acid index – up to 6 mg KOH/g (grade B); up to 8 (PV);
Drying period – 20–24 hours
viscosity (conditional) – 19–25 s (PV), 18–22 (V).

Oxol is characterized by complete transparency, easy flammability and a pungent odor. The latter, after using drying oil, does not evaporate from the room sufficiently for a long time. At factories, Oxol is packaged in metal containers (cans of different capacities) or plastic. Important! When opening metal containers you should use a tool that does not allow a spark to appear (do not forget about the flammability of the composition). It is not allowed to use Oxol near someone working heating equipment and sources of open fire. If the composition catches fire, it can be extinguished by any means (asbestos cloth, steam and chemical foam, gas, fine water).

Experts advise home craftsmen to use Oxol based on linseed oil. It dries completely in 20 hours and has a less unpleasant odor than drying oils made from other technical oils.

True, the cost of linen compositions is slightly higher. At the same time, Oxol of any brand guarantees a durable, water-resistant film on the treated surfaces that does not turn black for a long time.

Using semi-natural drying oil - how to apply the composition?

Since Oxol has a pungent odor and belongs to the group of toxic oil compounds, when working with it we adhere to certain mandatory rules. Firstly, we carry out the planned painting activities wearing a respirator, rubber gloves that protect our hands, and thick overalls. In this case, the risk of poisoning by drying oil vapors and contact of its drops with the skin is significantly reduced. If, nevertheless, Oxol lands on a person’s skin, it is necessary to immediately wipe it off with a clean rag. After this, thoroughly wash the damaged area with soapy water.

Secondly, work with drying oil indoors is allowed only if there is effectively functioning ventilation. Direct processing scheme wooden structures Oxol looks like this:

1. Clean the product from the old coating (varnish, paint, etc.). We remove grease stains, dust and other contaminants from the surface.
2. Dry the cleaned structure. If there are significant roughnesses on its surface, we additionally sand the wood.
3. Open the jar of Oxol. Mix the composition well. If you are using a container from which the composition was taken earlier, add a little white spirit to the jar. Then we can easily stir the thickened mass.
4. Using a brush or roller, apply drying oil to the product. Make the layer not very thick.
5. We wait 24 hours. Then we re-paint the product with Oxol. If it is necessary to apply a third layer, wait another day. And only after this we treat the surface again with the described composition.

Now many people want to protect themselves from unnecessary chemicals. Wood products this also applies. Drying oil is a unique material in this regard! The origin of the name “natural drying oil” speaks for itself. Up to 95% of the composition can contain natural components of flax seeds, hemp, and rapeseed, which is a very high indicator in the production of paints and varnishes.

The remaining 5% are synthetic compounds, but they specific gravity so small that negative influence practically does not occur on the human body. The lower the percentage of synthetic chemicals in drying oil, the longer the wooden item will last you.

When choosing, pay attention to the composition and choose a product with the maximum percentage natural ingredients, this is the key to enhancing the properties of drying oil in protecting wood.

Main purpose

Considering the characteristics of the material, it is necessary to note why drying oil is needed:

base for painting external structures;
impregnation of internal structures (wall and ceiling cladding, flooring).

After treatment, it is necessary to give the coating time to saturate the inner layers of wood tissue. Drying times may vary, but you need to wait until it is completely dry. Further wood covering at the user's request, it is left in this form, or any oil paint is used.

The interaction of drying oil and oil paint will only strengthen the protective layer of wood. And also, the more drying oil is used, the less paint is consumed, isn’t that a plus?

You should not sit on the ceiling of a fence if you have just painted it, in the hope that the impregnation will completely natural products, and it will be absorbed in 5 seconds. Wood processing indoors is no less important than outdoors. Temperature changes, air humidity - all this does not have the best effect on the tree.

You can treat lining and floors with drying oil. However, do not forget that the composition must be absorbed until it dries completely, so entering the treated premises is strictly prohibited.

Remember that the main difference internal processing from external – absence fresh air. If for outdoor rooms the natural “drying agent” is the sun and wind, then for internal treatment a maximum supply of fresh air will be required. This is necessary in order to as soon as possible the surface in the room has dried well, and unpleasant odors, which even natural remedies have, have disappeared.

In addition to wood, drying oil and oxol are excellent for painting and preparing metals (at the priming stage). Drying oil can also be added to plaster - a kind of universal assistant to the builder.

Selection of drying oil

How to choose drying oil correctly? You cannot be guided only by the rule that the higher the level of naturalness, the better. There are the following types of drying oil:

Natural – the higher percentage natural substances in the composition, the higher the cost of the material and its quality. If a product with a 45% composition of vegetable oils can be used for exterior painting, then drying oil with an oil content of 70% or higher can be used for interior work. In any case, the impregnated surface will be protected.

Combined– material as close as possible to the source material. Its composition, as a rule, contains a mixture of a natural base and white spirit (solvent), which occupies 1/3 of the drying oil structure. This complex is used for external use - the effect of the solvent on the body is practically not noticeable, and drying is faster.

Drying oil "Oxol" is a middle class product. The impregnation is made from 55% natural oils and is used both indoors and outdoors. Oxol – great helper in sanding small parts.

Composite is the cheapest impregnation option. It consists of almost 100% synthetic substances and has a strong, pronounced odor. The use of drying oil on floors and other wooden surfaces in residential premises, no matter how ventilated they may be, is strictly prohibited.

Containing oil, drying oil will be an excellent base for paint. AND we're talking about It's not about putting a layer of paint on a dry layer of drying oil. Drying oil-based paint - combines the properties of both substances and does not require varnish.

MA-25 is the name of the paint for treating external surfaces, which is made from combined drying oil.

On video: how to prepare natural drying oil yourself.

Application method

In order to properly treat a wooden surface, you do not need to complete a painter’s course, but the basic principles of working with painting still need to be followed:

Before using drying oil or oxol, the wooden surface is cleaned of dust, grease and thoroughly dried. Application to wet material is extremely ineffective.
If the solution is too thick, you can dilute it with a solvent or nefras. Painting substances are used only after thorough mixing. No matter how fresh the jar is, stirring gives the drying oil structure oxygenation and reabsorption of the released oils.
To cover wood with drying oil, use either a roller or brushes. Small details are painted with small brushes.
Drying oil for wood and oxol with maximum natural composition dry in approximately 24 hours. Since multiple layers must be used for greater effect, it is important to understand that it will take several days to thoroughly develop the detail. Synthetic drying oil dries in much less time.

When working with drying oil, it is important to protect the surface of your hands from contact with the material. If you do get dirty, carefully remove upper layer from the skin, while moistening it with vegetable oil. If the solution remains on the skin, you can remove the residue with a solvent, then wash your hands thoroughly with warm soapy water.

is now one of the most fashionable and popular construction and finishing materials thanks to its two main characteristics: environmental friendliness and aesthetics.

But at the same time, wood does not have high strength and durability compared to others. modern materials. Natural wood requires special processing technology and additional protection; for this purpose, various impregnations, mastics, etc. are used.

Drying oil, almost forgotten in last years due to the abundance of new funds from foreign manufacturers in this category, is again in increasing demand - the effect is almost the same, but the price is much more affordable.

Why is drying oil needed and how to use it correctly when finishing or other buildings (for example, a gazebo or a bathhouse) made of wood?

Drying oil is a traditional paint and varnish material widely used in construction and painting work a few decades ago.

Under the Soviet Union, this was almost the only means with which products and buildings were processed. He has his ardent admirers to this day.

Using drying oil for wooden walls

Drying oil helps reduce paint consumption, which is why it is often applied to wood not only as a protective layer, but also as a primer for painting. How to do this correctly?

Everything is extremely simple. Shake the bottle of product, or pour it into a large container and stir.

Additional Information

Drying oil can be used for priming not only wooden walls, but also plastered. It is also often used as anti-corrosion coating for metals.

It is important to choose the right type of product. Modern manufacturer produces drying oil of three varieties, different in composition and properties:

Natural drying oil. 95% consists of vegetable oil, and only 5% - from a drier, a special additive that accelerates the drying of the treated surface.

It is unprofitable to use it for treating external surfaces due to the high financial costs, while this species does not provide 100% protection against fungus and insects.

Diluted with natural drying oil oil paints and prime wooden surfaces before painting or varnishing.

Oxol. It consists of 55% natural oil component, 40% solvent, white spirit, and 5% drier. The scope and properties of this type of drying oil are the same as natural ones, only it dries faster and costs less.

It also does not provide 100% protection. Learn more about why Oxol drying oil is needed and what it consists of in the video:

Composite drying oil is made entirely from artificial chemical components, in particular, petroleum-polymer resins, have a pungent odor.

Drying oils based on alkyd resins are considered the best. They are not as greasy and expensive as natural drying oils, and not as toxic as composite ones. But, nevertheless, it is better to use them for finishing outdoor dacha buildings (porches, swings, gazebos, summer kitchen) and for interior rooms country house and apartments.

Choose more modern, purified, reliable and safe formulations.

Drying oil is a good alternative to modern expensive means for impregnating and priming wooden surfaces.

But remember that some types can be toxic and are not suitable for use in residential areas.

If you need guaranteed protection against external factors, drying oil alone is not enough.