It is unlikely that a modern person can imagine his existence without comfort and the usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or cottage, first of all it is necessary to properly arrange the water supply and, of course, the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.
The installation of a sewerage system allows you not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.
Installation of a sewer system is a labor-intensive process and requires a serious approach; moreover, it is best to design a sewer system for initial stage construction of private buildings.
Before starting work, it is necessary to install a water supply and only then install the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.
Main types of sewer systems
Modern sewer systems are classified into three main types:
- Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
- External, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, treatment stations, cesspools, septic tanks.
- The most important stage is the installation of a sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and connections to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage it is very important proper arrangement, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.
Materials that will be needed when installing a sewer system
The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser into which waste water flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and is drained into a sump, which is located on the site.
Necessary materials:
- Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
- Bends for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
- Tees of the required style, which are necessary for branching the system.
- Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of different diameters.
- Audits to monitor the functioning of the sewer system and access for cleaning it in case of blockage.
- Plugs for sockets that cover unused holes.
- Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
- Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun, which is necessary for its application.
Important! For the riser you will need enough pipe large diameter(from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain wastewater from the toilet. Install the riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-arranged shaft.
In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.
The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to level the future locations and joints that will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilets, and bathtubs.
To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leaks, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.
Since plastic pipes are most often used when constructing a sewer system, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. The more reliable the fastening, the less likely the sewer pipes will be deformed, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.
Self-assembly of a sewer system
It is quite simple to install a sewer system with your own hands, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to maintain the sequence of work, acquire quality materials, and prepare the necessary tool for the job.
Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all sewer installation work quickly and efficiently. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time monitoring quality.
It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle, which will prevent them from clogging and ensure the normal level of system performance. The angle of inclination for each meter should be from 2 to 4 degrees.
You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging a sewage system - it is better to give preference to pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connecting and joining. To do this, you need to build a box or trench from plasterboard or other waterproof material. This design will allow for reliable fixation and a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.
Important! When installing a transition between a vertical drain and a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the load on components and pipes from pressure when draining water.
To install the transition unit, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection coupling, which will allow you to clean the system if it becomes clogged.
At the next stage, the drain line is taken outside the house. make a hole in the foundation of the required size and cut out a corner at an angle of 15 degrees and then set a constant level of inclination of the drain pipe, inclusive of its entry into drain hole no more than 2-3 degrees.
You should not make a smaller slope or, conversely, tilt the pipe too much. Small level the slope will slow down the passage of wastewater, and with a strong slope, wastewater will flow too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to blockage and disruption of the sewer system.
Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and too close long distance can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many junctions and turns.
At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your region. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench should be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final filling of the soil.
It is equally important to install several small inspection wells along the entire length of the sewer pipes, which will allow an inspection of the sewer system in case of blockages. Immediately before laying sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without elevation changes.
The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications private residential building. The efficiency of operation, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the elaboration of the project. The grafical part project documentation, according to which a sewer system is installed in a private house with your own hands - a diagram of the location of plumbing fixtures, connections and revisions. This article provides information about regulatory requirements and the main problems in drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for selecting sewerage equipment and features of its installation.
Read in the article
Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram with your own hands in a private house
When drawing up a sewerage diagram, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:
- TKP 45-4.01-51-2007“Water supply and sewerage systems for residential estates”;
- SanPiN 42-128-4690-88“Sanitary rules for the maintenance of populated areas”;
- SanPiN 4630“Sanitary rules and standards of protection surface waters from pollution";
- SNiP 30-02-97“Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”
When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Septic tanks and cesspools should not be located closer than 4 m to the border of the neighboring property and 15 m to the drinking water.
The diagram should describe the mechanism for connecting internal and external sewerage systems, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, its technical specifications. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part must be linked to the plan of the house and garden plot, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.
Key Factors Influencing Layout and Design
In addition to calculating the average daily water flow, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:
- Volume of salvo release— peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, occurs in the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
- Performance treatment facilities . Depending on this indicator, one of three options for removing purified Wastewater:
- up to 5 m 3 /day – discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
- up to 0.3 m 3 /day – periodic removal by special vehicle is allowed;
- The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by its quantity, but also by the degree of purification in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.
- M material for the manufacture of treatment facilities: , fiberglass, metal, various polymers ( , polyethylene). The design of the structure, installation method, further service and exploitation;
- Providing power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment plants are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
- Construction site topology– terrain, slope direction, proximity of water bodies and the presence of potential discharge sites for treated sewage water;
- Geodesy of the construction site– the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost depend on these factors. installation work, the need for additional or purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle.
Types of sewerage structures and features of their functioning
In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment structures are allowed to be used for the installation and installation of sewerage in a private house:
- septic tank;
- filter well;
- underground filtration field;
- filter trench;
Important! In most cases, the listed structures should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which carries out primary rough cleaning.
Septic tank
The most common when arranging a sewer system for a private home with your own hands are two types of septic tanks:
Cumulative - are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to sources/wells drinking water. A significant drawback is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewerage services.
With soil purification. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or flows by gravity into filtration structures, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, it seeps into the ground.
Filter well
The wastewater entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and through it seeps to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.
- pipe;
- Plate bumper;
- Pipe for the flow of wastewater.
For the arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. The filter layer is gravel of medium fractions, which must be periodically removed, washed and returned to the container again, in order to avoid excessive soil pollution. The material used for making walls is often large-diameter plastic (with holes in the masonry) or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.
Underground filtration field
The site is laid with perforated walls. Through them, wastewater is distributed over a large drainage area and is absorbed into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel filter. This method involves a significant amount of excavation work. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:
- The thickness of the gravel filter is 20÷50 cm;
- The diameter of perforated pipes is 20÷50 cm;
- The distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.
In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm for each linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5÷25 m/day, 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25÷100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75÷300 m/day, the distance can be reduced to 2 m.
At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is imperative to install them with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of at least 70 cm above the ground surface.
Filter trench
A filter trench performs the same functions as an underground filtration field: collection of wastewater after a septic tank, its additional purification and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep groundwater table, since the trench must also have significant depth.
Total length pipelines and the number of pipes and trench depth are calculated using the same methodology as used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is assumed to be 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8÷1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to construct 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.
Components of the WWTP scheme
The most effective for a private home are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed with your own hands and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration units.
Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. Do not use overly aggressive products in everyday life chemical substances which can destroy bacteria. The installation must be connected to the power supply.
The cleaning process is carried out in stages:
- In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
- In the second section (aeration tank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen using the aeration method. Here, the active phase of cleaning occurs using biological decomposition using bacteria;
- In the third section, the settling tank, activated sludge is settled;
- From the fourth section, where water is supplied by a jet pump from the secondary settling tank, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or drain pump.
Installation of internal sewerage in a private house - diagram and recommendations
The internal sewage system includes the following elements;
- Plumbing fixtures: , ;
- Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
- Branch lines;
- Check valve.
Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When installing sewerage in a private house, the standard slope indicators are often neglected, doing it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, solids sewerage does not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water, and accumulates inside, creating traffic jams.
Table of the dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house pipes
| Diameter, mm | Optimal slope | Minimum permissible slope |
| 50 | 0,035 | 0,025 |
| 100 | 0,02 | 0,012 |
| 150 | 0,01 | 0,007 |
| 200 | 0,008 | 0,003 |
The connection of branch pipelines to the riser is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms is allowed open method. Fastening is carried out using special couplings with dowels, or the pipes are placed on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewage pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, boxes, under the floor. To carry out maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and sewer drain lines are equipped with inspections in accordance with the standards:
- Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
- Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
- At pipeline bends (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
- On leprous horizontal sections every 8 m.
Video of installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, correct laying of pipes with a slope:
Which pipes to choose
The optimal pipe material for sewerage in a private home is polymers. Products made from them are light in weight and can be installed by hand without the assistance of assistants. Industry produces a large number of, adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long training or special skills. The approximate material is not subject to corrosion and aggressive influences household chemicals, has a long service life. The following polymers are most often used for sewerage in a private home:
- HDPE (high density polyethylene)- affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°C;
- PP()– has good performance characteristics, maximum operating temperature is +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, and has a fairly high cost;
- PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- a material with an optimal combination of cost and quality. Can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical influences of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term use, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.
Pipe connection
The most common method of installing a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:
- The bell and smooth end are cleaned of dirt;
- A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
- Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or regular liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;
Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a mark is made on the smooth part of the pipe with a marker, after which it is pulled out 1 cm from the socket.
Stages of work on installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands
The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:
- Determination of the amount of wastewater, volume and productivity of the septic tank;
- Determining the location of the septic tank on personal plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
- Internal device sewer network;
- Installation of external treatment facilities;
- Laying pipelines and connections for external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.
Calculation of septic tank volume
Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.
| Type of housing and type of life activity | Consumption, l/day per person | |
| Residential building equipped with running water and sewerage system without bathtub | 125÷160 | |
| A residential building equipped with a water supply and sewerage system with a bathroom and a local one looks like this: V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , Where V – volume of the septic tank in m3; n – number of permanent residents; Q – average consumption water per person in m3; 3 – number of days of a complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP). For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, for a family of 4 people you will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To make calculations easier, we have developed a convenient calculator especially for our readers. Calculator for calculating the required volume of a septic tank based on the number of residents |
||
| For year-round use of a private residential building | During seasonal use of a country house | |
| Gravel, crushed stone | 0.15÷0.20 | 0.18÷0.24 |
| Coarse sand | 0.10÷0.15 | 0.12÷0.18 |
| 0.05÷0.10 | 0.06÷0.12 |
Table of the volume of household waste per 1 linear meter of underground filtration field pipeline:
| Composition of the filtrate | Maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 /day per 1 linear meter of drainage pipeline | ||
| Up to 500 | 500÷600 | More than 600 | |
| Gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand | 0.012÷0.025 | 0.0096÷0.0225 | 0.0084÷0.02 |
| Fine sand, sandy loam | 0.006÷0.020 | 0.0048÷0.18 | 0.0042÷0.016 |
Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 linear meter of filtration trench pipeline.
Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house
The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close to each other as possible; this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewage system of a private house with your own hands, you must consider the following factors:
- must be connected directly to the main riser of the sewer system at a minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
- It is recommended to connect other plumbing fixtures to the sewer network above the level of the toilet connection, this will eliminate the possibility of fecal matter getting into the drain lines;
- The pipeline must be rotated using several angle bends. For example, two at 45° or three at 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
- The sewer riser must be led to the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer system inside; Methods for connecting a toilet to a sewer riser
Installation and equipment of a sewerage tank
To install a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit is dug with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in a pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have quite a significant weight. In most cases, fastening elements are provided on the housing. After installation, the container must be leveled. Depending on the design, it may be necessary to install neck extensions.
Article
It is difficult for us to live without amenities, even if we are in a private home. We strive to provide maximum convenience by creating for our family optimal level life. For this, it is very important to think through the issue of construction in advance.
When building a sewer system with your own hands in a private country cottage, You can save money, but you need to carry out this work in accordance with construction and installation requirements.
Sewerage installation in a house involves the arrangement of external and internal sewerage systems.
The internal part is pipe routing, installation of a drain pipe and a riser.
External refers to a set of pipes running from the house to a septic tank or deep cleaning station.
Internal sewerage diagram
You need to choose a scheme based on the layout of each house. It is ideal when all plumbing equipment is connected to one collector through which the water will flow.
IN big house, with several bathrooms, it is more correct to prefer a scheme in which there will be at least two cesspools or a septic tank. And in a two-story house it is necessary to install risers.
How to draw up a sewerage diagram for a private house:
- draw up a house plan;
- determine the location of risers;
- mark the locations of plumbing fixtures and decide on how to connect them;
- depict the pipes running from the fittings and riser to the plumbing, and all connection elements;
- do this for each floor;
- determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
- add up the length of all internal pipes;
- At the final stage, draw up a diagram of the external sewerage system.
How to choose sewer pipes
Different ones are used for external and internal sewerage.
For laying pipes inside, polyvinyl chloride and gray. For sunbeds and risers, pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are used, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. Turns are made with two plastic elbows bent at right angles.
Often, pipes for external sewerage have Orange color, diameter 110 mm and the required rigidity. Double-layer corrugated pipes can also be used.
Pipe properties
Cast iron:
- durable and strong, designed for heavy loads.
- expensive, heavy and fragile, corrosion on the inside can contribute to clogs.
Polypropylene:
- Light and flexible, withstands high water temperatures well.
- there are no shortcomings.
Polyvinyl chloride:
- inexpensive and lightweight, used for external sewerage.
- They are fragile and do not tolerate high water temperatures well.
Pipe laying
The most serious process when constructing a sewer system in a house is the routing and laying of pipes. Upon completion of work, check the tightness of the system, and only then proceed to its operation.
Pipe connection
Today, many types of revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that are easily connected are sold. The joints can be processed. And in places where the pipe passes through the foundation, it is recommended to install a sleeve.
It is also important to remember the slope of the pipes, which depends on its diameter and is 2 - 3 cm per 1 m.
Sewer outlet
In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewer systems, begin the installation of the sewer system from the outlet,
It is installed through the foundation below the frost level. When installing the outlet higher, it will be necessary to insulate the pipe.
If you didn’t think about this, you will need to punch a hole in it large enough to install a drain pipe with a sleeve. The sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 130-160 mm. It should protrude 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.
The outlet diameter must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed to create a pipe slope.
Pipe routing and riser installation
It is ideal to place the riser in the toilet. It can be mounted openly or hidden.
To connect sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees are used, and adapters are used at the joints of pipes that differ in diameter. At the intersection of pipes, it is necessary to install a collector with a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also install water seals that will protect you from unpleasant odors.
Installation of a special tee (revision) on each riser is mandatory. With its help it will be possible to clear the blockage. You can install cleaning after each bend.
It is better to place the riser in the toilet of a private house Fan pipe outlet
Functions of the drain pipe:
- maintains atmospheric pressure inside the system;
- increases the durability of the sewer system;
- ventilates the entire sewer system.
The fan pipe is the continuation of the riser. This is a pipe leading to the roof. Before connecting the drain pipe and the riser, it is important to install an inspection. After which the pipe is led out at a convenient angle into the attic.
You cannot combine the fan pipe with the chimney or ventilation of the house. The exhaust pipe outlet must be located at a distance of 4 meters from windows and balconies. The height of the retreat from the roof should be 70 cm. It is also important to place it on different levels sewer, house and chimney ventilation.
External sewage system of the house
There are different ways to install a sewer system in your home, but it is very important to choose the right system that meets your needs.
It is necessary to select an external sewerage scheme taking into account the following:
- you live in the house temporarily or permanently;
- number of people living;
- daily water consumption per person;
- soil water level;
- plot size;
- soil type and structure;
- climate.
For more detailed information, you should read the relevant chapters of SNiP and SanPin.
All external sewage systems are divided into two types:
- storage (cesspool, sealed container);
- structures for wastewater treatment (single-chamber septic tank, septic tank with two overflowing wells, aeration tank, septic tank with a biofilter, septic tank with several chambers and a filtration field).
Cesspool without bottom
This is very old way sewerage, which is now used exclusively as a summer cottage.
In the cesspool, walls are made from rings of concrete or bricks, and the earth remains as the bottom. In a hole, relatively pure water seeps into the ground, and organic waste settles at the bottom.
When completely filled with waste, it needs to be cleaned.
It is possible to make such a cesspool if people do not live in the house permanently and do not consume a lot of water. In this case, groundwater must pass at least 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise it will lead to contamination of soil water.
Adding microorganisms to the pit will slightly reduce bad smell, and will speed up the process of water purification.
Sealed storage tank
This option involves installing a sealed container into which water will drain. You can purchase a ready-made container made of metal or plastic, or you can make it yourself from concrete rings. The lid is made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. Important during construction storage tank is its complete tightness and insulated lid.
When filling the tank, it must be cleaned using a special vacuum cleaner. The volume of the tank and the frequency of cleaning it depend on water consumption.
This system can be used in high ground groundwater, this way you will protect water sources and soil. But its downside is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often.
Single chamber septic tank
This is a well, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of crushed stone and coarse sand. Water seeping through them is purified by 50%. Along with mechanical cleaning, biological cleaning processes take place here.
You should not build such a sewer system in a private house if people live in it permanently. This option can only be used when groundwater levels are low. It should be noted that crushed stone and sand need to be changed periodically.
You can make a septic tank with your own hands from polypropylene, reinforced concrete rings, made of brick or poured into its walls and floor. In this case, it is necessary to determine whether the wastewater treatment will take place in the well field or in the filtration field. You also need to equip the system and carry out its hydro- and thermal insulation.
Two-chamber septic tank
Most popular way devices in country house, economical and can be built independently.
It consists of two wells. The first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is filled with crushed stone and sand, which will need to be replaced approximately every five years.
The first well plays the role of a sump, and the second - a filter well. Periodically, the first well is filled with waste and to clean it you need to call a sewer truck about 2 times a year.
It is worth installing such a sewer system in a house if, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below 1 m from the bottom of the second well. 
Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field
This type of septic tank is made in the form of a container divided into sections connected by pipes.
The first container is needed to settle the wastewater. Clarified water goes to the second section, where organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Afterwards the water goes to the filtration fields.
This is a vast underground area where soil treatment of wastewater takes place. If the soil on your site is sandy, then this perfect option. After this, the water is sent through pipelines to a well or drainage ditch.
Sometimes sand and crushed stone need to be replaced in the filtration field.
Natural treatment station - septic tank with biofilter
With its help, it is possible to carry out sewerage at any level of groundwater.
Such a station is a container divided into 3-4 sections.
In the first, the water settles, in the second, organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which live only under the condition of constant air flow. To do this, a pipe rising above the ground is installed above the chamber. In the pipe leading from the third chamber to the fourth, there is a filter with aerobic bacteria. Purified water can be used for technical purposes. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe leading to a drainage ditch, or storage tank.
For country house with permanent residence, a septic tank with a biofilter is the optimal solution. The disadvantage is that if they do not live permanently, the bacteria will simply die.
Artificial treatment station - septic tank with forced air supply
This is the setup quick cleaning, in it natural processes are artificially caused. It is impossible to install a sewer system using an aeration tank without connecting it to
Decent living conditions cannot be imagined without a well-equipped bathroom and, accordingly, a wastewater disposal system. There are some features when installing sewerage systems in 2 or more storey buildings, relating both to the general organizational scheme and specific installation nuances.
General sewerage structure
In multi-storey residential buildings The sewer system has a rather complex organization. It is preferable that before the start of installation work a project is drawn up, which should indicate:
- Axonometric plan of the location of pipelines and connection points.
- List of plumbing equipment and household appliances which will be connected to the wastewater system.
- Pipe capacity, flow direction and slope value in all sections.
The structure of the system is represented by a tree, from the trunk of which main pipelines diverge, into which connection points are inserted. All branches of the system are located on several levels, conventionally at the floor level of each floor. The number and length of branches are practically unlimited, however, they must all have a slope towards the riser of 3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 2% for mains of 110 mm.
In the classic version, only one riser is installed, to which all branches of the system are connected. If wastewater is discharged into a septic tank, it makes sense to separately discharge purely organic wastewater and those containing a high concentration of household cleaning products containing chlorine. Also, installing two risers may be advisable when equipping large country houses, where there are more than two bathrooms on one floor. In such cases, each riser is connected to its own local treatment plant.
An example of a sewerage diagram in a private house: 1 - 90° elbow; 2 - straight tee 90°; 3 — internal wiring pipe; 4 - plug; 5 — hatch for cleaning; 6 - non-ventilated riser; 7 - outlet pipe; 8 - revision; 9 - ventilated riser
When determining the structure of individual branches, one should be guided by the principle that points with the largest volume of salvo discharge should be located closer to the riser. For example, if a sink or bathtub drain is inserted between the toilet and the riser, then when the tank is drained, a vacuum will form, which will draw water out of the siphon water seal. It is for this reason that water from toilets is most often discharged directly into the riser.
Riser device
It is reasonable to install the riser immediately after the construction of the building frame is completed. On the one hand, this makes it possible to provide basic living conditions at the time of further construction work. On the other hand, sewer pipelines can be hidden under a layer of finishing.
The location of the riser must be chosen carefully and in advance, because its position on the house plan is strictly tied to the entrance to the outer part of the sewer. When draining, the pipes make a fair amount of noise, so the riser should be placed either in technical room, isolated from the habitable zone, or in a technical well equipped with sound insulation.
The riser should not be tightly walled up; it must have at least one section for which access is provided through a technical hatch. In these places, plumbing inspections are installed - bends with threaded plugs. The installation location of the inspection must be chosen so that it provides access to as much of the pipe as possible, and also so that the room where the hatch is located is spacious enough for maintenance.
Construction of a ventilated sewer system: 1 - outlet to the septic tank; 2 — riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 3 - fan pipe; 4 - deflector
Another requirement for the riser design is that it must extend above the insertion point of the highest branch. This is required to organize the so-called fan drain, which compensates for the vacuum in the system, which prevents the discharge of a large volume of water, as well as ventilation of the riser in case of malfunctions of the water seal siphons. As a rule, the drain pipe of the riser continues all the way to the roof, where the sewer is connected to the street through a roof cut with a deflector. It is important that the fan deflector is located no closer than 5 meters from windows and ventilation ducts.
Connection points on floors
Before organizing the branching of the sewer system, you should decide on the placement of connection points. This seemingly trivial task has some rules that ensure both comfortable use of the sewer system and its impeccable long-term service. The configuration of the branches is determined primarily by the household organization of the premises.
As a rule, there are only two bathrooms on the second floor: one common and one attached to the bedroom. It is preferable that both of these bathrooms have a common wall near which the riser is located. At floor level, a cross with two 110 mm and two 50 mm bends is cut into the riser. Sinks, bidets and showers are connected to small outlets, and toilet flushes are connected to large outlets.
There are more connection points on the ground floor. The kitchen is located here, where connections are required for a kitchen sink and dishwasher, for which it is enough to run a 50 mm pipeline branch of any length from the riser. In the same way, the sewage system is connected to the laundry room, where the washing machine and dryer are located. Also, the first floor is characterized by the placement of the main bathroom, where the bathtub itself, sink and toilet with bidet are connected, that is, this room is conveniently located under one of the bathrooms on the second floor or at a slight distance. Some homes may have a guest toilet, usually located next to the main bathroom and connected with one 110mm outlet for the toilet and one 50mm for the mini-sink. One of the useful innovations for a modern country house is the sewerage supply to the back door, where a grate with a receiving funnel is installed in the floor for washing shoes and paws for pets.
Sololift in the forced sewer system: 1 — sewage pump(sololift); 2 - plumbing connected to the sewer; 3 - height of wastewater rise 4-6 m; 4 - sewer riser; 5 - septic tank
If there is ground floor, it can also have a sewerage system combined with common system. This requires the installation of a so-called sololift - a lifting pump through which the wastewater will rise to the level of the first floor and be discharged into the general drainage outlet through a tee located below the cross. The drainage line from the basement must be equipped with a check valve. The very idea of installing sewerage into the basement may seem dubious, but this makes it possible to place a laundry in an area where the noise from it will not disturb residents, and also to organize technical or “dirty” washing.
Pipeline installation
Modern materials for installing sewer systems are designed so that not only a professional plumber, but anyone can handle the job. However, there are certain regulations containing rules and descriptions of the installation process.
Laying sewer pipes in a private house can be done in two ways. If the floors in the building are monolithic or solid, pipe routing is carried out at a level above the floor of the upper floor, thus, the connection points are located at a fairly significant height, and the pipes themselves are hidden under sheet cladding walls, or in a false box. This approach is acceptable for laying pipes under the sink or washing machine, however, when connecting a bathtub or floor drain at a significant distance from the riser, the height of the inlet pipe is unacceptable. In such cases, the pipes are carried down through the ceiling, and then pulled to the riser along the shortest path and hidden behind the hanging ceiling structure and enclosed in a sound-insulating shell. In case of frame floors This problem is easier to solve. The thickness of the overlap is often sufficient to form the required slope, and the small diameter of the pipes allows perforation in the beams of the supporting structure.
Plastic sewer pipes and fittings for them are a kind of construction set that can be assembled without using special tool. Sealing of joints is ensured by sealing rubber bands installed in grooves on the inner surface of the sockets. It is convenient to first remove all the rubber rings, assemble the system “dry”, making sure that the pipelines are located correctly and the slopes are correct, after which you can begin sealing all connections.
Video on the topic
Having decided to build a house yourself, you need to take care not only of the foundation and roof, but also of how to install a sewer system in a private house. There are step-by-step instructions that tell you how to make a sewer system in a private house that will work effectively and bring comfort to residents.
The sewer system project is developed together with the house project. Before purchasing materials and laying pipes, it is necessary to understand the nuances of the system’s operation, calculate all the parameters and understand the purpose of each individual element.
Building a sewer system with your own hands will not only save money, but can also be much stronger than when done by professionals.
First you need to determine at what distance from the site the central highway is located. If there is direct access to it, then a non-professional builder can easily cope with the installation.
The entire sewer system in a private house is divided into three parts:
- internal;
- external;
- settling tanks.
The internal part includes all the elements that are located indoors, the external part - respectively, the elements that leave the house and are located on the street. Septic tanks or collection basins are cesspools, septic tanks and other containers.
From the very beginning, you need to think through all the details and connections in the house, since disassembling the entire system after putting it into operation can be more difficult than making it from scratch. Most of all, disruption to the operation of the internal part of the sewer will cause problems.
Necessary materials
The structure of the sewer system in a private house and apartment buildings has many similarities. The main element of the system is the riser. All household water and waste from the bathroom are sent to it. All work comes down to the passage of liquid through the riser, its movement through the sewer pipe and movement into the sump.
For the sewer to last long years, materials must be expensive and of high quality.
To work in a private home you will need:
- pipes (quantity is determined during design);
- adapters for connecting pipes of various sizes;
- tees that are necessary for branching;
- fastenings for fixing all elements;
- bends according to pipe size;
- plugs for sealing holes, silicone sealant.
It is better to make the riser and pipe for draining the toilet from the house as wide as possible. The place for the riser is selected depending on the layout of the bathroom. It can be installed in the corner of the room or a special shaft can be built. You can hide the structure in ceilings, walls, floors.
The riser is securely fixed and secured. Next, the connecting nodes for the pipes that will extend from the bathtub, sink and toilet are aligned. If the choice is plastic pipes, then the rigid fixation is key point, since under the influence of liquid pressure, the material can bend. The joints of the seal rings are treated with silicone sealant.
Technical nuances
When installing sewerage yourself in a private house, you should be guided by the following rules:
- In order for water to flow easily and quickly from the toilet or bathtub into the sewer, the pipes must be installed at an angle. Every meter the pipe tilts approximately 3 degrees.
- At the point of exit to the street, a slope of 15 degrees is set.
- It is better to use smooth pipes in your work. Debris may be retained in the relief, which will lead to clogging and further breakdown of the system.
- After connecting the pipes, it is necessary to make a fixation. Waterproof materials are used, or a box is constructed from plasterboard.
- At the point where the vertical drain turns into a horizontal drain, preference is given to a 45-degree connecting element. Such a unit will be subject to less fluid pressure than a 90-degree one.
- To easily clear clogged drains, inspection couplings are installed in advance.
- Wells are being constructed along the highway to remove blockages.
- In order not to damage the foundation, as well as to prevent clogging of pipes, a distance of 5 to 15 meters is laid between the foundation and the sump.
- To make a trench for sewer pipe, you need to focus on climatic conditions region. The pipe must pass below the freezing level of the soil.
Work with the internal system
The internal sewerage system includes plumbing, Appliances. In a private house there is the opportunity to organize a bathhouse and a swimming pool.
To work, you will need pipes with a diameter of 32 to 50 mm, a pipe extending from the toilet with a diameter of up to 100 mm and risers.
You can determine the angle of inclination of the pipe by knowing the diameter of the pipe. If its size is 50 mm, then the slope should not exceed 3.5 cm; if the pipe size is 100 mm, then the optimal slope is 2 cm. Wide pipes with a diameter of 125 mm are tilted no more than 1.5 cm.
For the sewer system to operate efficiently, you must know the following rules. Crosses and tees are used to connect pipes to the riser. The bend in a rectangular section must be more than 90 degrees. Maximum length branch part - 10 meters.
As for the riser, it is brought to the roof of the house and acts as ventilation. The minimum rise of the pipe above the roof is 70 cm. In the room itself, at a height of 1 meter, a hatch is installed on the riser; inspection will be carried out through it. If the room is not heated, it is recommended to insulate the riser.
Working with an external system
In order to make external sewerage, corrugated pipes made of polypropylene or PVC materials are used.
For the system to work smoothly, it is better to make it straight. If this is not possible, small smooth turns are allowed. Sharp withdrawals should be avoided.
The depth of laying the main part of the pipe is selected based on the degree of soil freezing. But its beginning should not be deeper than 50-80 cm. This will create favorable conditions for creating the correct slope.
Next you need to do the excavation work. It is necessary to dig trenches for the sewer pipe and a place for the septic tank. These elements must be backfilled with coarse sand. The main purpose of the bedding is to protect the sewerage system in the event of ground subsidence. This will also make it easier to set the angle of inclination. Replacing sand with brick, stone, soil, or boards is excluded. All these materials can cause mechanical damage to pipes.
In the external sewer system The angle of inclination is slightly different. The pipes tilt toward the septic tank by about 2 centimeters, but not every meter, but 10 meters.
You can choose one of three septic tanks:
- with mechanical cleaning;
- autonomous treatment plant:
- cesspool.
Procedure
To make a sewer system with your own hands in the house, you must follow the following plan:
- Draw up a building project.
- Determine places for risers.
- Determine locations for plumbing fixtures and household appliances.
- Determine how to connect plumbing to openings.
- Mark the connecting pipes on the building design, taking into account distributions and tees.
- Mark the pipes that connect the fittings and sumps to the plumbing.
Work order:
- Install risers.
- Install drain pipes.
- Make all sewer lines in the room.
- Make a design for an external sewer system, taking into account the outlet pipe and well.
Connect the inner and outer parts.