It is difficult to overestimate the importance of a chimney for optimal operation of a heating unit. The main task of this device is to remove combustion products from the furnace into the atmosphere. At the same time, the following tasks must be solved:

1. Getting uniform throughout the day thermal regime in the house.
2. Optimal fuel combustion mode taking into account its economical consumption.
3. High-quality removal of combustion products from the furnace and preventing them from entering the residential area of ​​the building.

The solution to this triune problem is ensured by the correct design solution of the thermal unit itself and its high-quality maintenance during operation.

Important role in this case it is diverted to the chimney. The effectiveness of this device is determined by several important factors:

1. Correct selection cross-section and dimensions of the chimney. With a square or rectangular pipe shape, the flow of flue gases, which rises upward in a spiral, forms stagnant zones in the corners. They are the first to form soot deposits. The size of the channel should be one and a half times larger than the combustion hole in the furnace, minimum dimensions The square smoke channel is 140x140 millimeters, and the cross-sectional area of ​​the round one must be no less than the square one in the indicated dimensions. The total length of the smoke channel is required to be more than 5 meters. The length of the horizontal section is allowed no more than one meter.

To improve draft in a square or square smoke channel rectangular section Often liners are installed, which to some extent reduce the formation of soot.

1. The material from which the chimney is constructed. In this case, two factors are important - the quality of the internal surface of the smoke channel and the thermal conductivity of the material from which it is made. In the first case, the influence of irregularities, in addition to reducing the flow speed, affects the ability to deposit soot. The high thermal conductivity of the pipe material contributes to the rapid cooling of furnace gases, and consequently to increased condensation and deposition of soot on the wall.

1. The level of heat losses during operation. Insufficient draft in the chimney negatively affects the degree of fuel combustion, which leads to increased clogging of the smoke channel. And the ignition of soot in a chimney is often tantamount to a natural disaster.

The combination and interaction of the above factors determines the success of the smoke exhaust system.

We deliberately omit a number of rules and important factors in the design of a chimney, concentrating the reader’s attention specifically on the causes and consequences of the formation of soot deposits.

What is soot and how is it formed

Soot is a product of fuel combustion. It is contained in flue gases in the form of fine, unburned particles. In addition to it, they contain water vapor from the moisture contained in the fuel, carbon monoxide (CO2) and other products of active oxidation of the fuel. At high temperatures, a chemical reaction occurs, as a result of which vapors of hydrochloric and carbonic acids are formed.

Hot smoke condenses on the inner surface as an oily, foul-smelling liquid. Solid unburnt substances enter it, as a result of which, over time, the condensate turns into a tarry sediment. If a number of rules for using a heating unit are not followed, this sediment accumulates quite quickly, reducing the cross-section of the chimney until it closes completely.

It should be noted that condensation requires certain conditions. One of them is the temperature at which it starts. There is even a term for this – “dew point”. Obviously, when the chimney warms up, it will spread higher along the smoke exhaust channel.

A situation may arise when the “dew point” is outside the chimney, and condensation occurs already in open space. This suggests the conclusion that it is impossible to avoid the formation of soot on the walls of the chimney. But right arranged system removal of furnace gases significantly increases the frequency of cleaning.

About chimney pipe prevention

In development heating systems became more and more perfect. Some techniques have been experimentally developed to significantly reduce soot formation, such as:

1. Chimney insulation. This is done in the following ways: plastering the surface of brick pipes; covering the outer surface with various roll or slab insulation, followed by installing protection from foil film, metal sheet and other materials; the use of special insulated blocks with ceramic pipes for the installation of a chimney; protective devices to cover the chimney outlet from debris and bird nesting; the use of two-layer “sandwich pipes” made of metal with a layer of insulation.

The purpose of all these measures is to create conditions for rapid heating of the smoke channel, as a result of which the dew point in the process rises higher, until it exits into the environment.

1. Largest quantity soot forms on the bends of the chimney, so no more than one elbow should be used in the design if it is absolutely necessary to change its direction.
2. When installing a chimney, it is mandatory to scrape the inner surface in order to reduce the number of irregularities that contribute to the deposition of soot.
3. The use of chemical or biological methods for cleaning the internal surface of chimneys during combustion.

Chemical cleaning methods

How to heat the stove to clean the chimney? These substances include the following:

1. Naphthalene. It is added to the surface of the fuel in a well-heated furnace. At the same time, naphthalene evaporates, and its vapors destroy the entire layer of soot deposits. It is carried out in the form of flakes into the atmosphere. The disadvantage of this method is the unpleasant odor of this drug that remains in the room. Therefore, it is not used for cleaning pipes where an open source of fire is used (for example, a fireplace).

1. A mixture made with your own hands from simple and affordable ingredients. of blue color. Let's take a look at the composition:
   • 1/5 copper sulfate;
   • 1/7 saltpeter;
   • 1/2 medium fraction coke.

The mixture is added to a well-heated firebox. The evaporation products, as in the first case, destroy the layer of soot that goes out with the flue gases. The amount of mixture added for one cleaning is about 20 grams, the frequency of use is 1-2 times a month. The firebox door must be closed tightly after adding the mixture.

1. To combat soot deposits, aspen firewood is used, which is added to the maximum heated firebox in the amount of 1-2 medium-sized logs. The combustion temperature of such firewood is higher than that of commonly used fuel, and minor soot deposits burn directly during combustion. If there are significant deposits, this method is not used so as not to provoke a fire. It is recommended to do this regularly, a couple of times every 7 days.

1. shell from walnut. Its combustion also occurs at a significant temperature and the principle of operation is the same in the previous case. A single dose of shells should be no more than three liters.

1. Rock salt. It is added to the firebox when igniting the stove in the amount of 1-2 spoons. The evaporation from it softens the layer of soot in the pipe, which peels off from the walls and falls into the storage tank.
2. Potato peelings. They are used by adding to the firebox in quantities of up to 5 kilograms in dry form. Starch vapor effectively softens the soot, and it literally falls off the pipe walls in pieces. The product is used as it accumulates.

You can also use starch to clean the chimney in the amount of one spoon per firebox.

1. Chemical substance to protect chimneys. They are produced by industry specifically to protect chimneys from soot and soot. Release forms vary from imitation firewood or briquettes to powder or liquid formulations. Let's point out some of the most popular ones:
   • “Log is a chimney sweep.” Produced in the form of small briquettes. Its composition includes ammonium sulfate, phosphorus oxide, coal wax, and other chemically active components may also be present. During the heating season, it is enough to use 1-2 logs to maintain the chimney in good condition. The product eliminates the formation of soot during combustion, and old carbon deposits are loosened and removed from the walls. Release form: briquettes for chimney cleaning. Not to be confused with the cleaner log, which is also an effective cleaner.

1. • “Komichek” is a powdery substance, containing 5 sachets of 15 grams in one package. The basis is copper chloride, which promotes flameless combustion of soot and soot at low temperatures without flame. It is recommended to use when the carbon layer thickness is no more than 2 millimeters. When using the product, you must thoroughly ventilate the room.

1. • Anti-carbon chemical composition – (PCC). The product is burned directly in the bags in the firebox. You will need about 200 gr. for 1 t. firewood.

Carbon removers are presented in a wide range of stores, and you can always choose suitable option for any situation.

When using purchased chimney preventatives, you must strictly follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, especially regarding safety requirements.

Mechanical methods for removing soot

This is, as a rule, a radical intervention and is performed at least once a year at the beginning heating season. This is caused by the need not only to remove the soot layer, but also debris caused by the wind. And sometimes you have to get out bird nests that appeared during the period of inactivity of the heating unit.

Mechanical cleaning is carried out from above the pipe using various tools and devices, both manually and using drives from an electric drill or chainsaw.

If the lumen of the pipe is heavily clogged with soot, the initial punching should be done with a clean core to collapse the soot, and then continue with brushes and brushes until the walls are clean.

Before starting work, it is advisable to heat the oven with potato peelings or starch to soften the soot. After the furnace has cooled, its surface must be covered with a wet cloth to prevent soot from entering the room if it collapses; if this happens, cleaning the room will take more than one month. You also need to close the firebox and ash door tightly, and open the damper completely.

The work must be carried out using a roofing ladder, and if necessary, install a fence. Do not take strong drugs before going to altitude. medicines. Drinking alcohol is strictly prohibited. Otherwise, the chimney sweep risks his health.

All work must be carried out in dry, windless weather during daylight hours.

Watch the video - an easy way to clean

When performing chimney cleaning work, we use following materials and tools:

1. Brush for cleaning the chimney lumen. It can be made of plastic or metal 1.5-2 times the size of the channel.
2. A flexible cable with a handle for rotation (similar to a plumber's), as well as a fairly strong rope.
3. A stiff brush with synthetic bristles on a long handle. It is necessary to provide for its additional extension, because we remember that the length of the chimney is at least 5 meters.
4. The weight is metal, in the classic design in the form of a ball. It is attached to a rope below the brush. The size of the ball is selected to be no more than half the size of the chimney opening.
5. Metal scraper for removing stubborn soot stains.

Cleaning work must be carried out in the following order:

1. Cleaning begins with the use of a brush weight. The initial piercing of the internal lumen is performed. When performing this operation, the device must not be rocked, so as not to damage the walls of the chimney.
2. If there is a thick layer of soot, it is better to first work with a metal scraper to remove protrusions and soot stains.
3. Finish cleaning should be done with a stiff bristled brush.
4. Next, stoves with open fireboxes are cleaned from below, removing soot through the combustion space. The walls are cleaned with a long-hair brush, and finally the chimney is cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.
5. Currently, a vacuum chimney cleaner has appeared on the market. Its advantage lies in high-quality cleaning. For the price, this is a tool for professionals.

If, for some reason, you do not have a brush of the required size at your disposal, you can make one on site from a plastic bottle. To do this, its walls are cut vertically into strips 15-20 millimeters wide so that they bend vertically. This homemade tool works no worse than a standard one.

When cleaning a chimney with a chainsaw, it is used as a drive for a traditional tool.

Features of cleaning stainless steel pipes

Such chimneys are characterized by high quality internal surfaces. This property allows condensate to flow freely down into the condensate collector, from where it is periodically drained and disposed of. The absence of condensation prevents the formation of soot. But carbon deposits, for various reasons, still form and need to be cleaned. This is done as follows:

1. Through the hole in the tee, a round brush on a flexible shaft is inserted into the pipes. Carbon deposits are cleaned by rotating the brush from an electric drill. As you move, the drive shaft increases in length to clean the entire length of the pipe.
2. In case of persistent carbon deposits, cleaning can be done by burning out using blowtorch. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the chimney and burn it out. At a temperature of 800-900 degrees, sufficient for the intended purpose, even tarnished colors will not appear on a high-quality stainless pipe.
3. After cleaning is completed, it is advisable to insulate the chimney riser in order to move the dew point outside the chimney.

The described option is only suitable for austenitic stainless steel. If you were sold pipes made of ferritic or semi-ferritic steel, they most likely will not have the necessary performance qualities. Determining compliance is simple - normal stainless steel is not magnetic.

Watch the video

The need to clean the inner surface of sandwich pipes does not arise often - condensate flows out of them regularly. But if you suddenly need to carry out this procedure, then you need to use an elongated cylindrical brush on a flexible drive cable that receives rotation from an electric motor.

You can also disassemble the chimney and clean each pipe separately.

Cleaning the chimney from tar deposits

Some fuels form viscous components from condensate and low-flammability creosote components. They are very difficult to fight and difficult to clean.

To reduce the likelihood of the formation of such precipitation, the chemical preparation “Hansa”, which is a crystalline substance, is used. It has a complex composition, one part of which promotes the decomposition of wood into resin and water vapor, and the second part decomposes the resin into flammable components, which burn here. Previously deposited tar stains on the walls of the chimney also decompose into small crystals and fall into the firebox.

"Hansa" is loaded into a burning firebox. At the beginning of the heating season it should be used daily, then periodically. Details on the packaging.

Cleaning a curved chimney from soot

Installing a chimney with a bend is the last solution worth turning to. This is mainly due to the design features of the house. Cleaning a pipe elbow is not difficult if you have taken care in advance of installing inspection hatches during installation.

Watch the video

Through them the pipe can be cleaned without special labor. However, it is not advisable to install more than two bends on one chimney. It is mandatory to install a cleaning hatch.

Cleaning the chimney of a gas boiler or water heater

The reason for performing such an operation will be a decrease in traction. This poses a considerable danger, especially when we're talking about about adaptation in an apartment building. In such a situation, not only the residents of one apartment are at risk.

Watch the video

The pipe will not determine the reduction in thrust. The signal may be the “popping” of the igniter. Cleaning the chimney of a gas water heater is similar to cleaning a conventional stove duct.

As a result of the long-term use of heating stoves, gas boilers, etc., a number of rules have naturally developed aimed at the efficient use of heating devices. The main ones are:

• It is not recommended to use resinous wood, such as pine, spruce and others, as well as raw wood for heating the stove. In this case, intensive formation of soot and resins is observed.
• The stove must not be heated with scraps of composite materials, including plywood, chipboard, OSB, hardboard and other similar materials. The composite materials used in their manufacture actively clog the chimney with difficult-to-remove sediments on the walls.
• When using coal as fuel (for most designs wood stoves it fits) you need to choose the right variety. One of the best is anthracite of the “nut” fraction, which does not emit a large amount of soot components. Metallurgical coke is a good fuel. It is produced from high-grade anthracite by burning in coke oven batteries. At the same time, all harmful elements burn out, so the coal burns evenly and hotly. Disadvantage: difficult combustion. Therefore, it is better to use a mixture of coke and anthracite. The cheapest and most “harmful” of the fuels of this class are types of gas coal (“goryuchka”). They burn out faster and release a large amount of planting components. Briquetted coal burns well and emits little soot
• It is strictly not recommended to use it as fuel in solid fuel stoves. household waste, especially plastic ones. When heated with garbage, a guarantee of rapid formation of soot deposits on the walls of the pipe.
• When installing a chimney duct, you must strictly fulfill the requirements to ensure maximum draft. This primarily applies to the rules for installing pipes in height.

Watch the video

and performance characteristics. Now knowing what to use to clean the chimney, it is easy to keep it in working order at least during the heating season. But cleaning at the beginning of the heating season is still a real and inevitable necessity. However, good luck to you!

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Using household items and a few items from your medicine cabinet or kitchen cabinet, you can quickly and easily unclog your kitchen sink without spending a dime. Just select and click below on one of 8 express methods, depending on the degree of blockage, the availability of tools and “chemicals” in the house. Or view the entire material ⇓.

First aid for blockages - 6 simple ways

Perhaps, to clear the blockage in your kitchen sink, the following simple and absolutely harmless to pipes (of any kind) steps will be enough, and you will not need to read further this article.

Method 1. Cleaning pipes with boiling water or hot water

Perhaps this is the very first aid measure, which is often enough to clear blockages.

1. If the pipes are steel, pour about 1 liter of boiling water into the drain hole and wait 20 minutes. To clean plastic pipes, just run hot water from the tap for 20 minutes (the water temperature should not exceed 60 degrees). A plug that is not too tightly seated should drain into the sewer.
2. We check the result by running a small stream of water. Did not help? Let's try another method.

Method 2. How to clear clogged pipes with a plunger

1. We tightly plug all overflow holes in the sink with a wet rag to block the passage of air and provide a hydraulic column.
2. Press the plunger against the drain hole, then sharply pull it towards you. We repeat these steps several times to thoroughly “stir” the cork and break it into small pieces.
3. We check the result by releasing a small stream of water.
4. Let's start the flow hot water for a few minutes so that the plug goes safely into the sewer.

Tips:

• If you don’t have a plunger at hand and the blockage is not too complicated, you can replace it with a glass or a rag. The steps are the same: press it against the drain and pull it out sharply.
• If you have a two-section sink, then you need to have two plungers and use them at the same time. That is, when cleaning the drain in one bowl of the sink, you need to close the drain in the second. This will create more suction force. If there is no second plunger, then close the second drain hole with a damp cloth and press it with your hand.

Method 3. How to clean grease from pipes in the kitchen using soda and salt

A clog in the kitchen sink is often caused by an abundance of grease congealed in the pipes. In this case, ordinary salt and soda can solve the problem.

Method 4. Removing clogs with vinegar and soda

Another popular way to clean kitchen pipes at home is with vinegar (9%) and soda. Caustic foam resulting from chemical reaction These components should eat away the blockage.

1. Pour 150 grams of soda into the drain hole, and pour the same amount of 9% vinegar on top.
2. Close the drain with a stopper to prevent foam from flowing out.
3. Wait a couple of minutes, then run hot water at full speed - this will help push the plug.

Method 5. Clearing the clog... Alka-Seltzer

If there is suddenly no soda in the house, but there is Alka-Seltzer, then it can also clear a moderately clogged siphon. By the way, this product has another bonus - the unpleasant smell from the sink will disappear.

1. Throw a couple of Alka-Seltzer tablets into the drain hole, and then pour in 1 cup of 9% vinegar.
2. After 2 minutes, run the hot water full blast to help push through the dirt.

Method 6. How to clear blockages in pipes using a vacuum cleaner

Do you have a vacuum cleaner with a blow function? Great! Wrap the vacuum cleaner pipe with a rag so that it fits tightly into the drain hole. Strong air flow the vacuum cleaner will push through the stagnation.

When traditional methods don't help

Problem not solved? If first aid does not help, this means that the clog in the sink is old, large and dense. How to clear a clog in a pipe if folk recipes didn't work? Don’t rush to call a plumber and disassemble the siphon; try using special chemicals (Mole, Tiret, Pothan, etc.) or a plumbing cable.

Method 7. How to clear a clogged pipe using a plumbing cable (and how to replace it at home)

If the kitchen sink is very clogged, you can use a special plumbing cable. This metal device looks like a brush with a long flexible handle (sold in hardware stores). Cleaning water pipes cable is best suited for metal structures - it can even partially remove rust. But the method is not suitable for cleaning plastic pipes, since there is a risk of damaging them due to excessive mechanical pressure.

1. The cable is placed in the pipe and rotated. Here you can direct the movement both away from you, pushing the blockage into the sewer pipe, and towards you, pulling out the plug.
2. When cleaning with a cable, you need to periodically supply water to the sink so that the flow of water washes away the released dirt.
3. Run hot water for a few minutes to flush any remaining sediment down the drain.

Clue:

• If there is no cable on the household, then an ordinary metal hanger will come to the rescue, from which you can make a mini cable. Cut it with wire cutters so that the resulting wire has a small hook at the end (see picture below).

Method 8. How to clear a clog in the sink using household chemicals

Special products designed to remove blockages in pipes can be acidic or alkaline. Most often they are:

• Liquid and helium (for example, Sanfor, Tiret Turbo, Deboucher).
• Dry in the form of loose powder or granules (for example, Bagi Pothan, Mole, Chirton “Clean Drains”).

The pipe cleaner is selected depending on the material of the water pipe and the expected type of contamination.

Tips:

• The cheapest, well-known and universal remedy is “Mole”, which is based on acidic compounds and in most cases corrodes blockages of any origin. But for the most advanced cases, we recommend trying the fast-acting remedy Bagi Pothan in the form of granular powder.
• Liquid cleaners for clearing clogs are gentler and easier to use.
• Whatever remedy you choose, first clear the blockage with boiling water for 20 minutes (if the pipes are steel) or with a stream of hot water for 20 minutes (if the pipes are plastic). Then add the cleaning solution exactly following the manufacturer's instructions.
• If children live in the house, then it is better to buy a pipe cleaner for one time in small packages.
• Before you start cleaning your pipes, be sure to wear rubber gloves, otherwise the clog remover will attack not only the stopper, but also your skin.
• If you are planning to clear a clog in your sink using a caustic chemical or vinegar, be sure to open the window.

If none of the above methods work, then it is time to call a plumber. Most likely, the blockage has built up too deep and is packed tightly beyond the reach of most clog removal tools.

Cleaning plastic pipes should be done with extreme caution, since the material is quite susceptible to mechanical damage. It is worth knowing that the smooth surface of plastic pipes does not corrode. Also, surface contaminants do not adhere well to it. However, a blockage can still occur, because fat deposits, hair, and food debris gradually clog the water drain.

• For plastic pipes, you can use a plunger or household chemicals, which give excellent results.

And a little about prevention

To kitchen pipes do not become clogged for as long as possible, you should follow these recommendations:

The question of how to clear a blockage in a pipe at home has probably been asked by every housewife. The first thing that comes to mind when such a problem arises is to call a plumber who will professionally do all the dirty work. But you will need to pay for such a service and, in addition, no one guarantees that a specialist will come when called on the same day.

In this article we will talk about how to clean pipes with your own hands using improvised means and special household chemicals.

Causes of blockage and its signs

Old cast iron pipes most susceptible to blockages. Build-ups can form on their inner surface as a result of metal corrosion, which reduces the permeability of the sewer. Over time, more and more contaminants accumulate on such bulges, and if they are not cleaned in time, water will stop draining from the sink or bathtub.

Main causes of clogging plastic and other pipes in a house or apartment are as follows:

• uncontrolled flushing of food waste, hair, paper and other debris down the drain;
• accumulation of fatty deposits on the walls of pipes;
• foreign objects entering the sewer system;
• failure to comply with the rules for installing a sewer system.

In fairness, it should be noted that sooner or later any sewer can become clogged, even for owners who try to use it carefully. Therefore, you need to monitor the condition of the pipes and eliminate the problem at the initial stage.

The signs of a clog are as follows::

• an unpleasant odor from sewer holes indicates the formation of organic deposits on the pipes;
• water that does not drain well from a sink or bathtub is a sign of a significant decrease in the permeability of pipes;
• the appearance of dirty water in the bathroom drain when you turn on the faucet in the sink. This situation indicates the formation of a traffic jam deep in the sewer.

If any of these signs appear, you must immediately begin cleaning the system. Delay threatens to result in a complete blockage of the sewer system.

Cleaning methods

Sewer cleaning methods can be divided into several main groups:

• chemical (using household chemicals and folk remedies);
• mechanical;
• hydrodynamic.

But before we begin to examine them in detail, it should be noted that quite often a plug is formed not in the sewer system, but in the siphon located under the sink. This drain element must be periodically cleaned of debris accumulated there. In the kitchen, the most common cause of clogs is food debris; in the bathroom, it is hair.

You can clean the siphon using means that we will talk about later, but the most effective and simplest method is to disassemble the part and manually clean it. Before you begin, clear out the space under the sink, cover it with rags and place a deep enough container under the drain to catch water and debris. Then disassemble the part, clean and rinse hot water with addition detergent. After completing the procedure, install the siphon in place.

Chemicals

You can remove a plug that is not too tight or perform preventative cleaning of the sewer using chemicals. Of course, advertisements for household chemicals will convince you that these solutions can get rid of any blockage, but, unfortunately, this is not the case. Home remedies have an even more gentle effect, but are inexpensive and easy to use.

The most popular compositions and cleaning methods that do not require large investments:

• boiling water. If the pipes are made of metal, you can pour about a liter of boiling water into the drain. Minor stains are easily dissolved;
• salt and soda. These components successfully dissolve fat, so they will help in the fight against water stagnation in the kitchen. Mix half a mug of salt and a mug of soda with a mug of water and place the mixture in the drain for 5-10 minutes. After the mixture has taken effect, you can use a plunger;
• baking soda and vinegar. The dissolution of the cork occurs due to a violent chemical reaction of two substances. 150 g of soda is poured into the lumen, and then 150 ml of 9% vinegar is poured. After a few minutes, you can use a plunger or simply rinse the pipe with water.

Before purchasing specialty chemicals, carefully read the information on its label. Find out what material the pipes in your home are made of and make sure that the blockage remover will not damage them.

Before starting work, protect your hands with rubber gloves and put on a respirator. Remember that such formulations contain potent components that under no circumstances should come into contact with the skin and mucous membranes. Organize ventilation in the room where cleaning will take place and prevent household contact with the resulting vapors.

The most popular purchased products:

• "Mole" is a budget product, produced by different manufacturers. Effective for several hours. Suitable for removing minor blockages and preventing the formation of traffic jams;
• Chirton “Clean Drains” in granules is sold in small doses, which is very convenient - you don’t need to spend money on a large package of the drug, and in the future you won’t have to store it at home dangerous substance. You can get rid of a traffic jam with its help quite quickly, in about 15 minutes. Among the advantages is also the absence of a persistent pungent odor;
• Deboucher is ready for use as it comes in gel form. It is inexpensive and works quickly (within about an hour). Disadvantages - high consumption and inability to use aluminum sewers;
• “Bagi Pothan” is a potent remedy with a pungent odor. It works within 3 minutes and can remove even severe blockages. It is not cheap and is not suitable for prevention;
• Sanox Clean Drain is great for preventing traffic jams. Does not destroy pipes and does not emit caustic fumes. It's inexpensive.

Mechanical

Mechanical cleaning has a number of advantages - you don’t need to poison yourself and your loved ones in pairs chemicals and wonder if the remedy will work. Necessary equipment: plunger, plumbing cable (or wire), brush.

Small dirt can be removed using a regular brush, lowering it into the drain and making a few sharp movements. If this approach does not bring results, use a plunger. Press the rubber band firmly against the drain hole and fill the sink with enough water to cover the plunger.

The most common device for removing clogs in sewers is a plunger. Its use does not require special training

They break through the cork, making sharp forward movements. Usually 10-15 is enough. If the blockage is cleared, the water will quickly drain from the sink.

Only after trying more simple devices, start using plumbing cable. Remember that you need to handle it with extreme care so as not to damage the pipes (especially if they are plastic).

The operating procedure is as follows:

1. Remove the siphon.
2. Insert the cable into the hole in the pipe and carefully move it deeper with a counterclockwise rotational motion.
3. From time to time, remove the device and clean it from dirt.
4. After restoring the passage of the sewer, install the siphon in place and flush the system with plenty of warm water.

You can use thick twisted wire as a cable, but you need to make sure that it does not have a sharp end that can damage the plastic.

Hydrodynamic

There are times when the drain can only be restored with drastic measures. For example, quite often blockages that arise in toilets and old pipes connected to them are very difficult to break through. Then special devices come to the rescue: a hydrodynamic machine and pumps that create a powerful jet of liquid.

This technique must be used with great care so as not to damage the sewer system.

Prevention

To avoid having to suffer with sewerage, follow simple preventive measures:

• install a special mesh on the drain in the kitchen sink to trap food waste;
• do not flush hair down the sink or toilet;
• do not throw paper, hygiene products and other insoluble waste into the toilet;
• Perform preventative cleaning of the system approximately once a month.

It should be noted that modern plastic pipes are less susceptible to contamination than metal ones. To maintain the permeability of the system, in most cases it is enough to clean the siphons in a timely manner.

Video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of the article:

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The habit of using sparingly automatic washing machine may lead to the appearance of unpleasant odor. Washing at temperatures below 60℃ and short rinses allow fungi and bacteria from dirty clothes to remain on internal surfaces and actively multiply.

The easiest way to remove scale and carbon deposits from the soleplate of the iron is with table salt. Pour a thick layer of salt onto the paper, heat the iron to maximum and run the iron over the salt bed several times, applying light pressure.

Heating a house, cottage or bathhouse is rarely complete without a stove or boiler. For our winters, this equipment is optimal: it can produce the required amount of heat. But both stoves and boilers require maintenance, and one of the mandatory procedures is chimney cleaning.

Why does the chimney become overgrown with soot?

The combustion process of fuel is an oxidation process, and this requires oxygen and high temperature. If at least one of these conditions is not met, soot appears - this is the result of insufficient oxidation of carbon. Externally, the presence of soot can be determined by the color of the smoke - if it is black, it means it contains soot particles, but most of it settles in the chimney, especially in places of turns.

Now a little about what can cause active soot formation:

The rate at which the chimney becomes overgrown with soot also depends on the type of firewood. Resinous spruce and pine in this regard are not the best choice, but not everyone has the opportunity to burn with expensive oak or other hardwoods. In any case, you can make sure that the firewood is dry. To do this, it is worth building a larger one so that it can accommodate a supply for 2-3 years. Then you can use the most seasoned and dried logs, and let the fresh ones lie and reach condition.

How can you clean a chimney from soot?

There are three ways to clean a chimney:

• Mechanical. A brush is inserted into the chimney, with the help of which the soot is knocked off the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that you need to have access to the pipe, which is not always easy. Not everyone is able to climb onto the roof, and cleaning from below requires flexible rods and access. Another unpleasant moment: all the contents fall down, you will have to collect it and take it out, and then spend a long time cleaning the soot from the stove or fireplace. Therefore, before starting cleaning, place some kind of container into which everything will be poured.
• Chemical chimney cleaning - powders and briquettes (logs). When the system warms up, the powders are poured into the fire, and logs are placed under the firebox. The substances they contain soften the soot, it gradually flies into the pipe, but can fall down and block the passage altogether. So it is better to use these products for prevention when there is still a little soot.
• Traditional methods. The problem of chimneys becoming overgrown with soot is not new, and our ancestors knew how to deal with it without chemicals. There were, of course, chimney sweeps, but they worked in cities, and their services cost a lot. Nevertheless, the problem was dealt with using very simple means - salt or potato peelings.

There's one more thing cardinal decision- go to the fire department and call specialists. They are no longer called chimney sweeps, but perform the same functions, albeit by different means. The solution is not bad, they know their job, since soot is explosive, as long as they don’t give permission to anyone. The only negative is the cost of such services.

Mechanical chimney cleaning products

Cleaning chimneys using brushes has been used for centuries, and they are still available today. A brush-ruff is attached to the end of a long elastic and flexible cable. Diameter - individually depending on the size of the chimney. A small metal ball can be tied under the ruff to make the tool go down easier. This structure is lowered into chimney, raised, lowered again and raised again. Do this until the passage is clear. Everything works simply - the bristles knock off the soot from the pipe.

This chimney cleaning has one peculiarity: if there is good draft, most of the soot flies out into the chimney. Therefore, firstly, you need to tie yourself down so that you don’t fall off the roof due to involuntary movement, and secondly, put on safety glasses and a respirator. Gloves would also help, but they are needed to prevent the cable from injuring your hands.

If you decide to make a chimney brush yourself, hang the ball below, and a centered one. Kettlebells or spanners don’t fit - sooner or later they become a waste in the chimney. You will be lucky if you can remove the tool without disassembling the pipe.

The chimney is not always such that it can be cleaned from above - it can rise several meters above the roof. You can’t put a ladder up to it, you can’t get close to it in any other way. In this case, the chimney is cleaned from below. For this purpose there are brushes on flexible rods. Fragments of the rod are connected to one another, the brush moves along the pipe. In this case, part of the soot is also carried away by the draft, but some falls down and this must also be taken into account. Professional chimney sweeps use special vacuum cleaners for collection (not household ones, since soot is explosive); if you clean it yourself, you will have to collect everything by hand.

If you have a fireplace, everything is simple - access is free, but if it is a boiler or sauna stove, the matter is more complicated. If the chimney has a glass to collect condensate, by removing it, you can run a brush into the pipe without any problems. If there are no revisions, you will have to try to get to the pipe through the firebox. If this is not possible, you will have to disassemble the chimney. Then it’s better to immediately redo it by installing a tee with a glass.

Chimney cleaning products

You can clean the chimney using chemicals while it is not too clogged. If the pipe is brick, these products help make mechanical cleaning less frequent. As an independent product they can be used for ceramic chimneys or those made of stainless steel. All these powders or logs for removing soot from a pipe are preventative. It is not always possible to clean the chimney from a large amount of soot with them. There have been cases when the soot that fell after burning the powder clogged the chimney tightly. I had to take a brush and clean it by hand.

Despite these shortcomings, the products are used and here’s why: during processing, the soot that is in the boiler softens, sauna stove or in smoke ducts. Pulling them by hand is a small pleasure, but regular use does a good job of eliminating the problem.

There are plenty of products for cleaning chimneys from soot in stores, but here are the most popular:

After using all chemicals, the room must be ventilated and the stove or fireplace must be cleaned. Please note that after treatment, the soot may still fall off for a couple of days - the remnants fly off.

Traditional methods of chimney cleaning

The easiest way to prevent soot formation is to heat an already heated stove with aspen wood. They burn with a very hot flame, and the soot in the chimney burns away. The action is effective, but dangerous - if a lot of soot has accumulated, it explodes when ignited and can rupture the pipe.

There are safer folk remedies that make chimney cleaning both effective and safe. Add half a kilogram of salt or about a bucket to a melted and well-heated oven potato peelings. It is better to dry the peelings or add raw ones little by little - so as not to reduce the temperature in the firebox. The effect is approximately the same as when using chemicals, only a little softer - the soot flies out of the chimney for another three days.

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How to clean a chimney pipe on our own and without special costs

In the old days, cleaning a chimney pipe was a common, ordinary task for any owner. After all, there was a wood-burning stove in every home and the subtleties of this process were passed down from generation to generation. Now these skills are known only to a narrow circle of professionals, whose services are quite expensive. However, there is nothing particularly difficult in this activity. In this article I will talk about how to clean up a chimney with your own hands using traditional devices, as well as accessible old-fashioned cleaning recipes.

Indirect signs of a clogged chimney

You should not be negligent in cleaning the chimney, because a pipe overgrown with soot or even clogged can lead to the fact that at some point carbon monoxide, which has neither color nor odor, enters the room. And this is no longer just a mild poisoning with a headache, but a real mortal danger for you and your family.

• The first thing you should pay attention to is traction. Any person who regularly has to light a stove or light a fireplace knows that in addition to the firebox itself, stoves have a vent that provides air flow and a damper on the pipe. This damper is needed to adjust the cross-section of the chimney; without it, the lion's share of the heat will literally fly out into the chimney.
  The position of the damper is usually determined by eye, experimentally. So, if to ignite the stove you need to open the damper more than usual, it means that the cross-section of the pipe has become smaller and it needs to be cleaned;

• Another indirect sign of the need for such cleaning may be the color of the smoke.. When wood burns, the smoke is usually light, almost white, and at high burning intensity it can even be transparent. If dark smoke is pouring out of your chimney, and patches of soot appear on the roof and in the yard, then it’s time to get down to business;
• You can also determine if the system is clogged by the color of the flame.. Under normal conditions the fire will be light yellow color. If the burning intensity has dropped and the flame has become bright orange, it means that the fuel is not burning out completely, therefore, the stove needs to be cleaned.

Methods for cleaning a chimney

Over the thousands of years of existence of stove heating, many different methods have accumulated in the treasury of folk wisdom. Didn't stand aside modern science, on this moment A number of formulations are available to solve this problem.

What does the modern market offer us?

The simplest, although not very cheap, way to clean fireplaces and stoves is to use a variety of chemical mixtures that can, to one degree or another, actively destroy soot deposits in chimneys and fireboxes:

• The domestic company "Dymovoy" produces whole line similar devices. A cleaning box is considered a serious preventative measure against soot. This is an ordinary cardboard box with a flammable chemical inside, which must be placed in the firebox and set on fire.
  The whole process lasts about one and a half hours. After this, within 2 weeks, the soot will actively fall off and pour into the firebox or burn inside the channel, poured through the chimney;

• If the cardboard box does not help, there is a more radical remedy, the so-called “Smoke” log. This is a briquette of compressed chemicals, decorated to look like an ordinary log. The developers claim that this is one of the most powerful tools. In addition to practical benefits, the burning of such a log is accompanied by interesting visual effects; it produces an original flame with a pronounced turquoise shade, children will simply be delighted with such cleaning;

• The product line of this well-known manufacturer also includes special cleaning pellets designed to prevent clogging of pellet heating boilers and stoves. To maintain normal operation of the boiler, the instructions require mixing a ten kilogram package of the product with a ton of regular pellets. To clean conventional stoves with such pellets, it is necessary to burn a kilogram of this chemical in the firebox for 5 days;

• Approximately the same line of products is offered by the concern, which operates under the widespread brand “Chimney Sweep”. This brand is the result of cooperation between our manufacturers and the famous German company Hansa. If you believe the advertising, then their products are capable of destroying not only layers of soot, but also reacting with creosote, which is the basis of a dense and viscous substrate under a layer of this very soot;

• The products of the Czech company Kominichek have gained popularity among Russians for quite some time now. One package contains 5 sachets of the mixture, 14 g each. Used at the rate of 1 sachet per 1 kg of firewood.

The advantage of this mixture is considered acceptable price, as well as the ability to decompose soot even at relatively low temperatures. But the product has a pungent odor, which is why it can only be used in tightly closed fireboxes; it is not suitable for open fireplaces;

• Moreover, one of the most available funds is an anti-carbon chemical composition or PHC. The compound is effective, but quite aggressive; no more than 150g of powder is used for 1 ton of fuel. It is sold and used in the same way as Kominichek, in paper bags that are burned without opening.

This entire powerful arsenal of modern chemistry, according to the manufacturers themselves, is more designed to prevent chimney clogging. If the thickness of the carbon deposits in your pipe does not exceed 20 mm, then the chemistry will cope with it. Large blockages can only be removed mechanically, that is, with your own hands.

Traditional methods of cleaning pipes

Fortunately, not all of the grandfather’s recipes were irretrievably lost and in the treasury of folk wisdom, there are still many effective recommendations left. Personally, I trust folk methods more than aggressive chemistry:

• The simplest remedy is ordinary table salt. It is poured onto burning coals and as it evaporates, it gradually destroys the soot layer. There are two opinions on when exactly you need to add salt. I was taught that you should sprinkle salt on the smoldering coals of a dying furnace.
  At the same time, I have met masters who, on the contrary, claim that salt should be poured over high heat. Apparently the truth, as always, is in the middle. After all, no matter what you pour, at the moment of maximum combustion the thrust will be maximum, therefore, most of the composition will simply fly out through the pipe;

• In parallel with salt, I use potatoes, or rather potato peelings, to soften and destroy the soot layer. They are thrown closer to the end of the firebox and, according to the rules, must burn out completely. Destruction occurs due to the absorption of starch into a loose layer of soot. The method is completely safe and requires virtually no costs;

• One of the most common in the past old-fashioned ways chimney prevention was to periodically heat it with dry firewood from aspen, alder or birch, and this firewood must be cleared of bark. During such a fire, the dampers must be periodically gradually closed and opened completely.
  As a result, when you close the valve, the temperature rises, and when you open it completely, you get maximum draft. Such “swings” lead to complete burnout of the layers. But for old stoves this is dangerous, as the walls of the chimney may crack;

• Light soot deposits can be destroyed by naphthalene vapors. According to experienced cleaners, it is supposedly enough to burn one tablet in the firebox for 3-4 days in a row and within two weeks after that all the soot will burn out and the channel will become clean.
  But I have doubts about the safety of this method. Firstly, naphthalene is a rather harmful and smelly compound, and no matter how hard you try, some of the vapor will end up in the room anyway. And secondly, at high concentrations, naphthalene vapors are considered explosive;

• There is another radical method: cleaning the chimney with boiling water. As a rule, it is used for serious blockages, as a temporary measure until you get around to cleaning it mechanically. It’s simple, three liters of boiling water is poured into the pipe of a heated stove, the steam shock simply knocks the plug out, plus the structure of the entire layer is disrupted and part of the soot burns;
• If we talk exclusively about cleaning stoves, then you can use a mixture of crystals copper sulfate(5 parts) with saltpeter (7 parts) and coal or coke powder (2 parts).
  Such a product is burned at the moment of maximum high temperature in the firebox. For 100 kg of fuel, 20 g of powder is enough. But keep in mind that this product is not suitable for fireplaces;

• I don’t know how true this is, but I was assured that periodically burning aluminum cans, for example, beer cans, in the firebox, cleans the chimney perfectly. Only thin aluminum should not melt, but burn. You can achieve this effect only if you heat the stove with good coal or coke, you won’t get that temperature with wood.

All folk cleaning methods are good only as prevention or preparation for general cleaning. mechanical cleaning with your own hands. So there is no need to place high hopes on them.

Cleaning the pipe yourself

Cleaning pipes and chimneys using chemical or old-fashioned methods is certainly a good thing, but as I already mentioned, in case of large blockages, you can only clean up the mess manually. And the first thing you should take care of is the tool.

What you need to clean your pipe yourself

The most common, one might say classic, chimney sweep tool is a wide brush. To be honest, despite the development of scientific and technological progress, the same way chimney pipes in private houses were cleaned with pipe cleaners and brushes 100 years ago, they are cleaned to this day.

Of course, to be fair, it should be noted that in addition to metal brushes, their plastic counterparts are now actively used. By the way, chimneys made of stainless steel can be cleaned, but with plastic brushes or metal bristles you will completely ruin the structure, but such pipes cost serious money.

Design of this device extremely simple. A round core weighing from 2 to 5 kg is fastened to a brush with horizontally oriented bristles from below with a carabiner, and from above this whole miracle of design is suspended on a cable or rope. Such brushes can be round or square, but in any case, they must be at least 20% wider than the chimney in size.

The lower core does not have to be round, it can be cone-shaped, oval, in general, anything, the main thing is that the weight is well centered, otherwise it may jam in the channel. That is why you cannot hang sports weights or dumbbells here.

Another useful device is a scraper, which itself resembles an ordinary chisel screwed to a long stick. To be honest, when I was faced with the problem of cleaning a chimney at the dacha, and there were no special tools at hand, I did just that, screwed a carpenter’s chisel with wire to a long pole, in my case to a bamboo rod.

A complete set for high-quality chimney cleaning consists of three main devices. I have already talked about the brush with a core. In addition to this, you will need approximately the same brush, only attached to an elastic metal or fiberglass cable. The same device, only with a different nozzle, is used to pierce sewer pipes.

The fact is that a straight chimney, that is, going vertically upward from the combustion chamber, is rare. Usually between the camera and vertical pipe the so-called “coarse” is installed in stoves and fireplaces; it is needed to increase heat transfer.

In this segment, the gases heated in the furnace move along a broken trajectory, in other words, like a snake. So, in all the problem points of this snake, technological windows are made, through which the chimney channel is cleaned. A flexible but elastic cable with a brush is exactly what is needed to clean hard-to-reach places in the chimney, from below through technological windows.

In modern private houses with low floors, the stove or fireplace pipe turns out to be quite long, and if the blockage is severe, one brush on the cable may not be enough. In order for you to be able to clean the entire length of the chimney with a scraper, it would be a good idea to purchase a set of extendable meter rods made of fiberglass.

Of course, a factory-made specialized tool is a convenient thing. And although the price of this set is relatively affordable, our person allocates funds for such purchases last, and before that he will definitely try to make something with his own hands.

Here's from own experience a couple of recipes for such homemade products. At first I tried to make a brush with a bristle from millimeter steel wire. I cut pieces of wire slightly wider than the chimney and in the middle I wrapped them in one ring around a stud with an 8 mm thread. Then, I tightened it all with nuts through washers.

Of course, such a device scrapes off soot quite well. But 1 mm steel wire is quite tough and not every brick pipe can withstand such a test. At home on the new chimney this number still passed, but old pipe at the dacha almost fell apart from the steel bristles. Therefore, I do not advise you to step on this rake; it is better to use the following recipe.

Plastic brooms are now on sale. So I decided to make the second brush from such a broom. Most of all I had to tinker with the disassembly, because those who did it apparently did not expect that they would disassemble it.

Then everything is simple. The broom's crown turned out to be a soldered monolith. In the center of this monolith I drilled a hole in diameter metal pin, after which I put wide washers on both sides and tightened them with nuts. Under the pressure of the washers, the durable synthetic pile parted and assumed a horizontal position.

The weight was smelted from lead. I made a clay mold, inserted a pin with a ring at the end into the center and filled the mold with lead. I also screwed rings on both sides of the homemade brush. And he connected all these segments with carbines.

One of my friends “fished” from the Internet a scheme for making a brush from plastic bottles. There you need to cut off the bottom of two bottles and, not reaching the neck, lengthwise, cut the walls of the bottles into petals. Then, towards each other, so that the necks “look” in different directions, these two segments are placed on a stud and tightened with bolts.

All this was beautiful, cheap and attractive while this brush was being made, but when they tried to clean out dense carbon deposits with it, it turned out that this device was of little use. This “brush” is too weak to scrape off old carbon deposits.

There is another assembly diagram homemade brush. It will work well, but you will have to tinker with its creation. Thick steel rope disassembled into wires is used as bristles.

The hardest thing to disassemble is the rope itself. Such items are knitted on special machines and can take quite a long time to disassemble. You need to work slowly, wearing thick gloves, otherwise you will prick your fingers. The threads are tied there tightly, so that it is unlikely to be possible to disassemble with bare hands; it is better to use pliers.

When the rope is disassembled, a nut is screwed onto a threaded steel stud, a wide metal washer is put on it, on top of which the same washer is put only made of thick, dense rubber.

The wire is laid out from the center in a circle, after which another rubber gasket with a wide iron washer is put on top. Manufacturing is completed by tightening these two washers on both sides.

Chimney cleaning technique

First of all, remember that all work at height is dangerous. Believe me, it only seems from below that there’s nothing wrong on the roof two-story house no, in fact, a fall can lead to serious consequences, even death.

The first thing you need to take care of is insurance; the more reliable it is, the better. In addition, it is customary to clean pipes in calm, dry weather. Decide for yourself whether you should wear thick overalls and gloves, but a respirator and goggles will definitely not be superfluous.

Before starting work, first clean the firebox. In general, before I climb onto the roof, I “steam” the pipe for a week traditional methods. Usually potato peelings and table salt are enough.

Immediately before starting active cleaning, the doors, vents and technological windows of the furnace must be closed and preferably covered with a damp cloth. We simply cover the fireplace opening with a thick, damp cloth.

Before you run a brush with a weight or a scraper into the pipe, make sure that there is nothing there other than soot. If the stove has not been heated for more than two weeks, birds may make nests or take up residence in the chimney. the bats. In addition, old brick pipes can crumble from the inside, and it is better to immediately notice a displaced brick and try to fix it, rather than turn it out with a brush and drop it down.

I warn you right away that cleaning a chimney is hard work and you will have to sweat a lot. First, lower one cannonball on a rope to the entire depth of the pipe, without a brush. Make sure it moves freely and doesn't get caught on anything. After this, you can attach the brush and, using a back and forth motion, from top to bottom, slowly clean the chimney.

If the core does not pass, then you need to use a scraper. In general, it is believed that the core diameter should be at least 2/3 of the cross-sectional dimensions of the pipe.

Of course, the brush can also be screwed to a long rod. But if with the core you expend effort only to lift it up, it will go down on its own, under the weight of the core, then in the case of a barbell you will have to spend 2 times more energy.

All the soot you clean off will naturally fall to the bottom. So don't wait until the pipe is filled with debris. Periodically you need to climb off the roof and clean out the soot through the service window.

When you are done with the pipe, start cleaning with a flexible cable with a brush at the end, “rough”. The firebox and vent are the last to be cleaned, despite the fact that you already cleaned them at the beginning, by this moment they will be dirty again.

Preventing blockages

Cleaning chimney pipes will be needed much less often if you adhere to the basic rules for operating stoves and fireplaces. First of all, forget about burning raw wood, especially coniferous species. Coniferous trees contain a large amount of resins.

These resins, dissolved in water vapor, are heavy compounds, so they will immediately settle on the walls of the chimney, forming a dense coating that is difficult to clean off. At the same time, dry wood, even coniferous species, does not pose a great danger to stoves and fireplaces.

Another problem with modern stoves is the disposal of waste in the firebox. Old rags and paper, of course, do not pose a great danger, but synthetics and plastic bottles, sooner or later may lead to the fact that you will have to completely rebuild your oven. And I’m not even talking about those harmful carcinogens that will literally irrigate you and your family in the yard.

The table below contains some standards for the operation of furnace equipment.

Name of event and type of equipment	Frequency of preventive maintenance
Inspection of furnace structures and equipment for them	Immediately after commissioning. And also after carrying out any preventive measures
Checking stove structures, boilers and fireplaces operating according to the season	Once before the start of the heating season
Checking chimneys in gas and solid fuel stoves and boilers	Within 2 years after commissioning, it is checked at least 2 times a year, then the frequency of checks can be reduced
Inspection of brick pipes, regardless of the type of fuel and system design	Visual inspection once every 3 months
Inspection of smooth-walled metal, heat-resistant concrete, asbestos-cement, and ceramic chimneys	1 time per year
Heating or heating-cooking stoves, as well as solid fuel boilers	Checked 3 times a year. Before and after the end of the heating season, as well as in the middle of the season at the discretion of the owners

Naturally, the above standards are valid for regular operation of stoves, boilers and fireplaces. During periodic use, say in a country house, bird nests and plugs from fallen leaves pose a great danger to the chimney.

Conclusion

As you can see, although cleaning a chimney pipe yourself is a physically difficult task, it is not particularly difficult from a technical standpoint. True, we should not forget that regular prevention can significantly reduce the frequency of DIY cleaning.

July 30, 2016

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