Making a galvanized iron drain with your own hands. How to make metal and plastic roof gutters. Manufacturing of gutters from steel sheets

Atmospheric precipitation greatly affects wear resistance various designs. If you do not protect the structure from their influence in time, the walls may crack, the facade may collapse, the roof will leak, the foundation will erode, or the basement will flood. To prevent this from happening, gutters are installed in houses, through which precipitation is discharged from the roofs to the ground, into sewer hatches or into special gutters - storm drains. open type. You can organize such a system yourself.

Composition of the drainage system

Any structure that drains water from the roof is made from standard parts. They have been known since the times of ancient Rome, and their shape has not changed for many centuries:

Materials used

When installing gutters inside the house yourself, you can use almost any pipes and splitters. But for external drainage systems, the choice of material is limited by the specifics of operation. After all, all parts are in direct contact with the atmosphere and must be resistant to severe frosts, snow drifts, heavy rains and the merciless sun.

Table: characteristics of materials used for the manufacture of drainage elements

Name	Thickness, mm	Service life, years	Description, pros and cons
Thin steel	0,5–1,5	Up to 5	Rarely used because it is susceptible to corrosion. Before use as a drain, all elements should be painted.
Roofing iron with a special protective shell	from 0.5	10–15	This is a metal - nickel-plated, chrome-plated, galvanized, with a polymer-decorative coating applied, etc. It is most in demand in northern regions with a dry climate.
Aluminum	0,8	25–30	Light elements are made from aluminum that can be installed immediately, because this metal does not oxidize for a long time due to the film that forms on its surface. But some manufacturers (for reliability) apply an additional layer of polymer on top.
PVC (plastic)	from 2	25–35	These are finished parts (pipes, fittings, drains, gutters) from which lightweight polyvinyl chloride systems are assembled.
Copper	0,6	150	Although the service life of parts made from this elite material is long, the system is quite expensive and inaccessible to many.
Zinc-titanium	0,7–0,8	100	This modern, newly developed material with a long service life has characteristics and prices almost the same as copper, only slightly inferior in thickness.

When making parts yourself, they often use:

• tin;
• plastic bottles.

These materials are easy to obtain. You can take any containers and make drainage elements out of them. The technology for making pipes, fittings and other parts of the drainage system is very simple - you need to find suitable boxes or cans, solder them, weld them or punch holes in the walls and twist them with wire.

Flaws:

The choice of material depending on the roof cladding

To prevent the exterior of the house from looking ridiculous, it is necessary to select drainage elements and coordinate them with the roof covering. For example, a plastic pipe on a house with a copper roof will not look very nice.

There are several general rules for choosing material for a drainage system:

• for luxury buildings lined with expensive materials from top to bottom (for example, ceramic tiles or slate tiles), zinc-titanium and copper drains are chosen;
• ordinary roofing felt, slate, roofing felt and plastic harmonize perfectly with PVC;
• roofing steel and tin look ideal on roofs made of corrugated sheets and metal tiles;
• aluminum drains are compatible with almost all types of metal and plastic coatings.

Photo gallery: gutters made of different materials

Self-production of drainage parts

To make the elements correctly, you must first calculate and cut them. Then you should give them the appropriate shape and connect the edges. Some parts can be made in several ways. It all depends on the tools that the master has.

Required tools and materials

Many craftsmen (in order not to overpay) have learned to make a sediment drainage system themselves. It is not so difficult. You need to prepare the following tools:

In addition, you will need:

1. Sheets of roofing iron, aluminum, tin or plastic bottles.
2. Industrial or homemade clamps.
3. Wire.
4. Containers - round or square jars, cans.
5. Firehose.
6. Corrugated plastic pipe.
7. Boards.
8. Self-tapping screws or nails.
9. Wooden or metal mandrels.

How to make a gutter

When making gutters on a special machine, the metal is clamped and bent according to the technology. To make these products yourself, you can use a vice and mandrels.

The simplest element can be made from a long piece of ordinary tin with a width of at least 20 cm (semicircular) or 20–30 cm (rectangular). This material bends perfectly even with your hands.

Step-by-step instructions for making a rectangular gutter

The easiest way is to make a rectangular tray by first calculating the workpiece. First, set its width (for example, 10 cm), on both sides add half of this distance (5 cm) for the walls of the gutter. In our case, the total width of the workpiece will be equal to 10 + 5 + 5 = 20 cm. Then cut off the corresponding piece from the sheet.

Further actions:

1. Mark the sheet.

   Using a tape measure, mark the cut sheet of metal

2. Clamp the workpiece in a vice along the fold line between two slats (approximately 2*2–3*3 cm), which should be longer than a piece of tin. This operation can be carried out using a profile pipe and channel. The metal must be inserted between the slats and the sandwich must be pressed on both sides with clamps.

   To make the tray wall, the workpiece is clamped with a clamp between the profile pipe and the channel

3. Bend the workpiece along its entire length. To do this, you can use a suitable board placed on top or your hands.
   Adjustment to 90 o is carried out by gentle blows of a rubber hammer on the metal.

   The wall of the tray is bent and finished with a rubber hammer

4. Turn the workpiece to the other side and perform exactly the same operation to form the second wall.

   The second wall of the tray is folded and finished in the same way.

A semicircular groove is bent on a cylindrical mandrel made of metal or wood with careful blows of a rubber hammer. During the manufacturing process, the workpiece is removed several times, taken by the edges and compressed to obtain the required shape.

At the end of the gutter, a semicircular plug made of an ordinary piece of metal is installed. It can be welded, riveted or glued with silicone.

A cap is installed at the end of the gutter to prevent water from draining over the edge.

Funnels

The simplest funnel is a truncated cone with the required diameters of the bell and the narrow part, the lengths of which are calculated using the formulas L1=π*D1+2.5 cm, L2=π*D2+2.5 cm, where π=3.14 (number pi), D1 and D2 are the diameters, and L1 and L2 are the length of the upper and lower circumference of the cone, respectively. A margin of 2.5 cm is the width of the additional part required to make the bend and lock.

The lengths of the circles of a cone depend on their diameter

The blanks are cut and bent on a mandrel or machine. The manufacturing process is the same as for making pipes.

If you are making a drainage system from scratch, then you don’t have to count the funnels. When making a pattern, you just need to take into account that the length of line L2 should be 7–10 mm less than the circumference of the vertical drain element. This is necessary so that the funnel can go 2–4 cm deep into the pipe. So, the length of L2 for a diameter of 11 cm will be 33.5 cm.

More complex products consist of several parts inserted into one another.

A composite funnel consists of several parts of different profiles

For a reliable connection with the gutter, you can make a funnel with a cutout, equipped with one or two hook wings.

The funnel can be equipped with hook wings for reliable connection with gutters

Manufacturing of metal pipes

Pipes are made using the same technology as semicircular gutters. The only difference is in size.

The calculation is carried out using the circle formula L=π*D+2.5 cm, where π = 3.14 is the number pi, and D is the diameter of the product. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm, a blank with a width of L=3.14*11+2.5=37 cm will be required. A margin of 2.5 cm is needed to create a single or double bend and a lock that prevents the pipe from opening. It is better, of course, to make them on a special machine. But not everyone has it, so most craftsmen perform this operation manually.

Step-by-step instructions for making a pipe from tin or thin metal

If the material is thick and difficult to bend, the workpiece is placed on a corner metal table or a square and bend it with hammer blows. You can clamp it along the line in a vice between two squares and form a bend there. For normal assembly of drainage elements, one end of each pipe is narrowed by 5–7 mm.

If the material is thin, then all steps can be performed with ordinary pliers, using a metal square and a hammer only when finishing and riveting:

1. A line is drawn on one side of the workpiece at a distance of 8 mm from the edge.

   A line is drawn from one of the edges of the workpiece at a distance of 8 mm from the edge

2. Using pliers, bend the edge at 90° along the drawn line.

   The edge of the sheet is bent with pliers

3. Level it by placing a square.

   The bent part is brought to an angle of 90° with a hammer

4. On the other side two lines are drawn. The first is 8 mm from the edge, and the second is 16 mm.

   The second side of the workpiece is drawn with two parallel lines

5. Grab a part 16 mm wide, bend it 90° along its entire length and finish it on a square.

   The second side is bent along the inner contour

6. Clamp the edge along the line at a distance of 8 mm from the edge outlined earlier and bend it in the other direction with pliers.

   An 8 mm wide edge is bent in the opposite direction

7. Bend further until the edge looks like an inverted V.

   The edge is formed to form a locking groove

8. The workpiece is bent by hand or using a mandrel, giving it a cylindrical shape.

   The workpiece is bent by hand to form a cylinder.

9. Combine the edges and insert one into the other.

   The edges of the part are connected into a lock

10. Pinch the V-shaped end until a strong lock is formed.

    The lock is firmly clamped with pliers

11. Bend it towards the pipe wall.

    The resulting lock is bent to the pipe wall

12. A corner is inserted into the resulting cylinder and riveted to obtain a strong connection.

    To give the lock final rigidity, it is riveted on the corner inserted inside

Video: how to make a galvanized pipe

How to make parts from bottles

Some craftsmen make a drainage system from ordinary plastic containers. Bottles with the bottom and part of the neck cut off are used. But not all of them are suitable. Only containers with straight walls are suitable - after cutting, such bottles will fit perfectly into one another.

Only bottles with flat walls are suitable for drainage

To prevent such a system from falling apart, you can:

Did similar system gutter At first I decided not to bother. I simply inserted plastic bottles, punched holes in them with an awl and twisted them with wire. Everything was great for six months. In the fall, when there was a strong wind, the wire cut through the walls of the bottles and part of the system collapsed. I had to do everything thoroughly. After inserting the next bottle into the pipe, I applied a round piece of metal to the inner wall, and heated the upper one (through a sheet of paper) with an iron until a reliable connection was obtained. I chose the time individually.

Squares can be made as follows:

To make a knee you need to connect 3 bottles.

A knee of three bottles is made in the same way

I encountered a difficulty while performing this element. He didn't want to hold on. I had to tie both horizontal parts with wire 2-3 times and pull them together.

The funnel can be made from a large container. You need to cut it in the middle. The upper part with the neck will be a funnel, which should be securely secured to the pipe with wire or a clamp.

Video: drainage system from plastic containers

Manufacturing of hooks and brackets

Gutter fastening elements can be made from long pins, fittings, thick wire, and metal strips. To make hooks and brackets, if they are up to 6 mm thick, you need to clamp the workpieces in a vice and bend them with your hands, pliers or a device in the form of a ten-centimeter tube (you can take it longer) with a hole of 7–10 mm. It is simply put on the part and allows you to bend it without applying special effort. IN in the right places Holes are drilled in the iron and threads are cut.

Gutter holders are often made from a single strip that is bent in a vice to the desired shape. Holes are drilled in the shank for fastening to the mauerlat, wall or roof sheathing.

Adjustable holders (for precise installation of the gutter under the roof) are made of two halves. The shank is made of a metal pin with a thread. The main part is bent from the iron strip according to the shape of the gutter. At its end, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the pin, which is screwed with nuts.

Gutter holders can be made straight, curved or adjustable

Video: homemade machine for bending hooks

Installation of a drainage system

In low-rise buildings, an external drainage system is used (pipes, gutters, funnels, etc.), all elements of which are attached directly to the roof and walls of the building, ensuring effective drainage of precipitation from the roof. Installation (it is performed from top to bottom) comes down to connecting the parts to each other and securing the finished products to the wall. First, gutters are installed, then funnels, pipes and elbows.

If there are hips (regardless of the number), it is advisable to make downward bends from their joints at the corners. If the roof slope is small, the verticals can be placed anywhere.

Gutter holders

The hooks must be placed so that minimum slope per 1 m was about 3 mm. To determine the slope along the entire route, the length of the roof is multiplied by 3. For example, at 6 m the slope will be 6 * 3 = 18 mm = 1.8 cm.

Step-by-step instructions for installing holders

It is recommended to maintain an interval of 0.5–1 m between hooks and install fasteners at the gutter joints. At a greater distance, a thin metal product may bend. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. First, install the two outer holders. Depending on the brackets used, they are nailed to the rafters or mauerlat immediately or, after drilling holes, they are strengthened with dowels.

   The remaining holders are installed so that the stretched cord passes through them

Securing funnels

Funnels are placed on gutters in places where pipes are supposed to be installed. The distance between them should not exceed 10 m. First, mark the holes and cut them out. Then they press the funnel with the wings and bend the ends inside the gutter, providing a reliable and strong hook.

The funnel is inserted into the cut hole and secured to the gutter, bending the wings inward

Pipe installation

The vertical elements of the system are placed under the funnels or slightly to the side, using angles and elbows. To do this, mark the points on the wall where the fastenings will be made. The gap between them (vertically) should not be more than 2 m. The wall in these places should be drilled and dowels with clamps inserted, but you can simply hammer the pins in there.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a drainpipe

To attach vertical drainage elements, perform the following steps:

1. They mark a place.

   

   The clamps are closed and secured with screws or snapped into place

Drain elbows

The elbows are installed at the very bottom of the pipes, at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the ground and no less than 40 cm from the wall. This is necessary so that the stream of water does not flood the base and undermine it.

Video: DIY installation of a metal drainage system

A homemade drainage system is very easy to make, but you need to take care of it so that it does not become clogged with debris. After all work, it should be protected from leaves. This is done using industrial or homemade gratings installed on gutters or funnel sockets.

Almost any structure roofing system involves wide rainwater drainage areas distributed around the perimeter of the roof.

Obviously, this design has a number of disadvantages, which gutters help get rid of.

They not only centralize water drainage, but also perform protective function , protecting the facade and foundation of the building from the negative effects of precipitation, as well as protecting the surrounding area from massive flows of liquid.

We must not forget about the aesthetic aspect– a properly selected galvanized steel drain can become an excellent design element, a real decoration of the home.

classified according to three main characteristics: configuration, material of manufacture of the main elements and cross-sectional shape of the pipe.

The first describes the features of implementing the system into the structure of the building and includes the following subgroups:

1. – there is no centralized water drainage.
2. – the location of vertical and sometimes horizontal elements from the inside of the external walls.
3. – the most common group, characterized by an open arrangement of semi-closed and closed elements.

The material of manufacture characterizes operational properties products and is most often represented by galvanized metal – steel or copper. This is a time-tested, reliable design that will be described in detail below.

Moreover, recently more and more Inexpensive, lightweight and relatively durable, as well as combined ones, that is, made of metal and protected with a polymer coating. The cross-sectional shape of the pipe, regardless of the material, can be round or rectangular.

External drain

Galvanized gutters: advantages and disadvantages

NOTE!

Contrary to the popular idea of ​​“galvanization” as a soft and rather fragile material, sheets, used for the production of drainage elements, characterized by high quality, actual and fatigue strength, resistance to external influences, and also undergo multi-level quality control.

The main advantages of structures made from such material include:

• reliability and durability;
• mechanical strength and rigidity;
• corrosion resistance;
• resistance to direct sunlight;
• Fire safety;
• versatility and ease of installation;
• low noise level during operation, especially for silent systems;
• ease of maintenance;
• reasonable price.

However, experts also highlight two significant disadvantages of the material. This possibility of destruction of seams and joints in case of significant thermal expansion in the hot season, as well as accelerated wear in damaged areas or poor-quality application of zinc coating.

Galvanized elements

Manufacturing of galvanized gutters

In the manufacture of gutters from galvanized steel, the greatest became widespread cold forming machines.

Basic roll bending machines form pipes and channels by wrapping a flat sheet around rotating shafts of a given diameter.

Locks and joints of elements are applied using seam-rolling mechanisms, which crush the edges of the metal with impellers. Special specialized Press-type equipment is used for the production of corrugated knees - rotating elements.

The technological process can vary significantly depending on the scale of production and the quality requirements of the finished product. So, small businesses use relatively simple manual machines and manual or electric drive, in larger productions automated or automatic lines are used.

All this affects the quality of the finished product, so before purchasing galvanized drainage elements, you should study information about the manufacturer and, if possible, about its technological process.

Construction and components of drainage lines

It is better to get acquainted with the design of a galvanized drain based on the direction of movement of rainwater.

Then you can track the following sequence of main elements:

1. Horizontal galvanized– are located along the sloping surfaces of the roof at a slight angle relative to the horizontal axis to ensure that flows flowing down the roof are captured and flow by gravity to the next component of the system.
2. Funnels - receive flow moving along a horizontal chute and redirect it into vertical pipes. Structurally, the funnel can be a tapering watering can large diameter or a section of a gutter with a branch pipe branching down, sometimes plugged on one side. The first design is used in cases where it is necessary to redirect intense flows of water exiting through the free edge (corner) of the gutter, the second - when working with flows of relatively low intensity or in cases where a branch is implemented in parts of the line remote from the edge.
3. Vertical pipes are closed sections of a line that transport water downward relative to the location of gutters and funnels. Most often, pipes are supplied in the form of standardized units of standard length (lately the 1.25 m standard has become widespread).
4. Knees - used to change the direction of flow at an obtuse or right angle to go around obstacles or transition from a vertical plane back to a horizontal one. Can be straight or corrugated.
5. Drain pipes - direct the outgoing flow to the drain point.

System design

Depending on the design features adopted by the manufacturer, There are three main ways of joining elements:

• end-to-end(assumes a slight difference in diameters on opposite sides of the element);
• folded type(special seam locks are applied to the edges of the elements, bending the material);
• using couplings.

Do-it-yourself drainage system installation

With a competent and careful approach to the work, installing a galvanized drain will not present any difficulties. Having some experience in inspection and installation work will greatly simplify the process, but is by no means prerequisite thanks to the simplicity and intuitiveness of installation.

The first thing you should do is develop a project plan. At this stage, preliminary measurements are taken, sketches are drawn up, and the need for materials is calculated.

After this, in the required quantity (preferably with a small margin) drainage elements are purchased, tools and materials are being prepared.

Here are the main ones:

• measuring and marking devices– tape measure, ruler, square, level, nylon thread, tap, permanent marker;
• bending and cutting tool– bending device, pliers, pliers, metal scissors, hammer, hacksaw or jigsaw with appropriate files;
• installation tool– fastening parts (most often screws), drill or screwdriver, screwdrivers, adhesive and sealing compounds with brushes and guns for them, soldering equipment;
• protective and additional means– work gloves, special clothing and shoes, safety glasses, stepladder or ladder, electric carry.

Gutter installation

Due to the fact that the main work will be performed at high altitudes, it is very important to strictly follow safety precautions. After preparing everything necessary and studying the safety instructions, you can begin the actual installation process, following the following sequence of actions.

1. At the edges of the roof, mark the attachment points for the gutter brackets, the brackets are bent to the desired profile and secured with or without preliminary drilling of the guide holes. Along a stretched nylon thread with a level control the line slope(it must be at least 3 mm per 1 m).
2. If necessary Places for funnels are marked and cut out on the gutter, special plugs are mounted on the blind collapses and fixed with soldering.
3. Gutters are installed on brackets, joints of their elements, fastening of turns and built-in funnels soldered or joined with special adhesives. To reduce the risk of joint destruction due to thermal expansion, special compensators can be installed - then there is no need to rigidly fix the main joint.
4. The gutter is covered with leaf protection nets - if this is provided for by its design and your preliminary work plan.
5. The first bend of the drainpipe is marked and made, the purpose of which is to bring a line removed due to the roof structure closer to the wall. At this and further stages, preliminary flaring of the ends of the pipes may be necessary if the fit expansion is not provided by the manufacturer.
6. Holes for installing pipe brackets are marked and drilled on the wall, and the brackets are installed. The main part of the pipe is assembled (if its length is not too long), and the joints are sealed. If necessary, additional systems are installed - a lightning rod, a drain pipe into the sewer, a pipe and faucet for collecting rainwater, and a drain elbow. The step between the brackets is 50-90 cm.
7. The pipe is mounted to the first elbow or directly to the funnel, fixed in brackets. This stage is more convenient to perform together.
8. If necessary, apply protective coatings, carry out additional control, fastening, sealing, and insulation work.

Funnel installation

At this point, the installation of a galvanized drain can be considered complete. Subject to the described technology, regular maintenance and monitoring technical condition systems with timely elimination of identified faults, its service life will be many decades.

Useful video

Instructions for installing galvanized drains:

In contact with

The use of roofing iron is probably the cheapest option for arranging drainage from the roof, as well as protecting the roof ridges. But as for the details, they can be very diverse and unique, so very often metal gutters are made right at the work site. So let's look at what is needed and how to make a drain with your own hands?

For example, clamps, brackets and plugs can be ordered at http://www.teplomatica.ru/dymohody/aksessuary-k-sendvicham/view-all-products.html.

As a rule, any elements of the roof are hidden from prying eyes, therefore, even if there are some flaws, no one will make claims on them. This allows you to make gutters and other parts manually, according to certain rules or templates. At the same time, you need to be able to work with a mallet in order to straighten the metal drain at the right time.

Yes, you can’t say that this method is the best, since the product ends up in waves, and you have to work very hard on just one of the parts. In principle, if this needs to be done in one place, then nothing. Well, when the whole house needs to be equipped with drains, then it is better to work with the help of special equipment.

In general, sheet bending machines are not a problem to purchase today. They are available to everyone, and in assortment. They are, of course, not cheap. But high-quality products can only be made using our own special equipment. Alternatively, you can also rent such a machine. But in this case, no one guarantees the accuracy and reliability of the product.

What is the difference between polymer and galvanization?

For almost all modern equipment, it does not matter at all what kind of sheet metal is bent with it. But there are still some nuances when working with a certain type of metal that is coated with a polymer composition. For example, it is much easier to work with galvanized steel, since it has a fairly resistant protective layer against various damage and abrasion. This is what explains the ability to easily bend galvanized steel, strike it, or crawl along rusty templates. It is advisable not to leave deep scratches only on its surface.

Of course, when a sheet of galvanized steel is opened specially. material, it is already less durable, since such a coating is thinner and can easily peel off. It is far from the best solution to bend a sheet of polymer, and even on an old device that has defects in parts. Well, especially in this case, you shouldn’t use a mallet.

Simple product

The first thing you need to do is make a skate. It is necessary to determine its rotation angle so that in the future it can be laid evenly and tightly. To do this, take a thin lath and place it on the slope.

The ridge shelves can be 15-30 cm wide. This means that you need stripes twice as wide, while making an allowance of 1 cm on each side. Here you also need to make markings with three lines applied longitudinally, namely on edges of the ridge and in its center. Next, the strip should be pressed along the marking lines with bars, with the center to the edge of the table.

Along the edge of the sheet that protrudes, place a board underneath, and bend the shelf upward, at an angle of ten degrees. Then release the workpiece, moving it back. The marking line will be directly on the edge of the block. After this, the workpiece should be clamped again and tightened with clamps. You should walk along the edge with a mallet and turn it up, perpendicular.

After making a preliminary bend, place both edges on a wooden sleeper and beat them with a mallet, thereby flattening the bend of the product. The edges of the edge should be processed sequentially, from edge to edge. And if there are unevennesses that are visible to the naked eye, they can be leveled directly with your hands.

How to make a gutter segment with your own hands?

To do this, you need to prepare a template in advance, otherwise it will simply be impossible to do the work.

It is necessary to weld reinforcing rods to the inch-long tube at the ends, as if driving versions of the handles. The pipe seam must be sawed with a grinder. Sand the edges using sandpaper.

You should clamp a strip of iron on the edge of the table, insert its end into the cut and rotate the pipe three hundred and sixty degrees. As a result, the straight-shaped petal will be in the center of the entire twist, and will lie parallel to the rest of the leaf.

Using a rack pipe bender, form the tray. The straight edge must be folded under at an even angle, pressing the side to the table and straightening it with a mallet. The edge that is twisted must be finished manually, while bending it into the inner part of the arc. Remove the workpiece and press the rectangular fold.

Possible segments of such a low tide are up to one and a half meters. And thanks to two stiffening ribs, the tray will not sag. In turn, thanks to the presence of a hidden groove, the drain can be secured to hooks.

socratstroy.ru

DIY gutter

The system for draining rainwater from the roof is, one might say, another roof over the house, because if there is no normal drainage, the walls and foundation will suffer every time it rains. Even the wide margins of the roof overhangs will not save you from it; the water will still flow little by little towards the walls of the building, where the pressure on the ground is maximum. If it is not possible to purchase a drainage system in a store, try making a drain yourself.

Today there are many types of gutters that are made of various materials. You can do absolutely anything with your own hands, if only you have the desire and time. On summer cottage It is not always possible to use hand-held power tools, so many operations, including drilling and welding, will have to be done with your own hands.

Wooden drain

Wood is a suitable material for a drainage system; finding or buying it is quite easy. You will need a thin board 15 cm by 1 mm, and the length should be equal to the length of the double perimeter of the roof overhang of the building. The manufacturing process is as follows:

1. We connect the boards in pairs with their long sides at right angles;
2. Each wooden corner is overlapped with another to create gutters the entire length of the wall;
3. Hooks and brackets can be made from scrap boards and steel wire rod. The brackets must be nailed at the corners of the walls so that in the corner of the walls the gutters overlap the edges;
4. Adjustment of brackets and inclination of gutters;
5. The inner surface is lined with plastic film (the edges can be secured with buttons, tape or shoe nails).

Instead of drainpipes, you can use the remains of a wooden gutter or make a thin corner from tin.

Sheet metal gutter

Galvanized sheet metal is most often used in the manufacture of gutters, because this option is the cheapest. Making a gutter with your own hands is very simple:

1. Prepare a sheet of metal 1 m long and 0.5 m wide;
2. A piece of this iron is placed on a metalworking table;
3. A piece of sheet is bent onto a pipe of suitable diameter using a wooden hammer to form a semicircle;
4. An indent of 1 cm is measured along the long front edge;
5. This edge line must be bent at an angle of 90 degrees;
6. The second fold is made at the trailing edge.

If you need to make a rectangular gutter, then you can use a beam of a suitable size for this.

1. Take a piece of steel strip 300 mm long;
2. The end parts need to be processed with a file;
3. Make a bend at a right angle from either end;
4. Bend it in an arc to the diameter of the gutter;
5. On the straight part, drill holes for fasteners and clamps.

Drain made of plastic pipes

For plastic gutters, sewer pipes made of polypropylene with a diameter of 110 mm are suitable. These pipes are sawn with a grinder and fastened together with glue or metal clips. The water drainage pipe is made from pipes 50 mm in diameter. You will also need tees with appropriate diameters to connect the pipes into one system.

It is necessary, having measured the perimeter of the roof, to calculate the required number of pipes, as well as the number of brackets and clamps for attaching them above the roof.

The brackets should be located at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other. Holders must also be installed, which are mounted in the places where the funnels are installed and in the corners. Dead-end sections of gutters must be equipped with special plugs to prevent rainwater from pouring out of the drain where it is not needed.

Drainage from sewer pipes can be fixed in three ways:

• On the roof
• On the front cornice strip
• To the edge of the rafters

To prevent water from stagnating in the gutters, when installing the drainage system, it is necessary to make a slight slope towards the funnel. The profile must be fastened below the roof at least 3 cm, because the structure may collapse in the spring along with ice and snow.

You can also make a drain with your own hands from plastic pipes for ventilation. They are made with exactly the same turns and different tees. Due to this curly shape, cutting them is much more difficult. If you choose between round and rectangular air ducts, it is better to choose rectangular ones. It is important to choose larger pipe sizes so that the gutters are larger and can handle more water.

Gutter made from plasterboard profiles

Option for making a drain from plasterboard profile much cheaper and more practical. Galvanized plasterboard profiles come in various sizes. They are immediately provided with special holes, but there are profiles without them. Such profiles are very easy to install.

First you will need galvanized mounting tape with holes. Its width should be from 3 to 5 cm with a thickness of 2 mm. It is better to cut the tape into strips in advance and secure it under the roof canopy.

Then you need to take profiles for gypsum boards without holes, cut them with metal scissors and fold them into a “box”. The profiles are fastened with rivets or bolts. If the profile length is not enough, they can be fastened together using sealant and rivets. Then you will need to achieve the required slope of the drain by slightly bending the fasteners.

Although the container is shallow, the profile is enough even for big roof in heavy rain. It can also easily withstand the weight of ice and snow on the house.

The main advantage of such gutter systems made of galvanized profiles is ease of installation and relatively low price. It is worth noting that they are very thin and barely noticeable.

Which gutter to choose for your home directly depends on the complexity of installation and the capabilities of the owner. Preferences and tastes are also an important factor, because for some, beauty and practicality are important, while for others, practicality and reliability are important.

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Galvanized steel drip tides: do-it-yourself manufacturing, installation and repair of drainage gutters

Low tides are responsible for collecting water from slopes and transporting it to drainage points, therefore they are the most important component of any drainage system. Due to the large length of drainage gutters, their purchase is a significant part of the cost of constructing the entire drainage system. The final price will be quite high, even if you choose inexpensive tin products. This is why everyone who respects himself House master must be able to make ebb moldings from galvanized steel with your own hands. A well-tested technology will not only save your budget, but will also allow you to emerge victorious in a situation where gutters are required for roofing non-standard sizes.

Manufacturing technology of galvanized steel ebbs

Companies that manufacture galvanized steel castings use special bending equipment. Radial bending of the workpiece is obtained due to the reorientation of internal stresses in the steel during rolling of a sheet of metal between the rollers of the machine. Of course, it is irrational to buy or make such a device for a one-time job. Therefore, at home, it is used for processing workpieces. hand tool.

For small-scale production of gutters, special sheet bending machines are used

Required tools and materials

Before you start making roof ebbs with your own hands, you should prepare everything you need. The first thing you need for work is, of course, galvanized steel. The industry produces sheet metal of various thicknesses, so the selection criterion is the shape of the future gutters. For L-shaped or rectangular products, you can use galvanizing with a thickness of 0.5–0.7 mm - this will allow you to handle its processing without much effort. Classic semicircular castings made of such material without stiffening ribs will be too flimsy, so for their manufacture it is better to take sheet metal with a thickness of 1 mm or more.

Galvanized sheet steel is the most suitable material for the production of drainage sills

The next thing you should pay attention to is the quality of the protective coating. According to standards specific gravity The zinc layer must be at least 270 g/m2. The retail network offers steel sheets with zinc coating from 60 to 270 g/m2. Be sure to clarify this point with the seller, since the difference in price will not be that big, but the durability of roofing iron may differ several times.

You can also use steel sheets with a polymer coating, but only good, high-quality material is suitable for this. Finding out its quality is not difficult at all - just bend the corner of the sheet at a right angle and look at the condition of the protective layer. If it has retained its original structure, then the coating will not crack during the molding of blanks, which means it will be perfect for the task at hand. If the polymer layer is damaged and peels off, then you should not buy such metal - water will flow into the cracks, and the steel will very quickly be destroyed by corrosion.

Tools you will need to make galvanized castings:

Since the brackets for attaching the gutters can also be made with your own hands, you will additionally need a structural steel bus 20–30 mm wide, at least 2.5 mm thick, and a steel strip 1 mm thick. Thin metal will be needed to make the clamps. You can attach them to the holders using rivets, or using a welding machine.

Step-by-step instructions for making ebb tides

If, after making a semicircular gutter, its edges move a little to the sides, it doesn’t matter - after installation in rigid holders, the configuration will be restored.

Semicircular ebbs for the roof water drainage system can be obtained in another way - by cutting galvanized drain pipes of a suitable diameter in half.

Video: making a gutter

How to make ebb holders

Hooks for attaching gutters can be bent from a steel bar. A metal strip with a cross-section of 20x2.5 mm is suitable, since thinner metal may not cope with the snow and ice that accumulates in the drain in winter. If it was not possible to buy such a tire, then the holders can be cut from a steel sheet of suitable thickness. To do this, it should be marked by drawing the required number of strips 20–30 mm wide and 400 mm long.

The configuration and length of the hooks depends on the shape of the gutter and the method of its attachment (on the rafters, sheathing or front board).

To get many holders of the same type, you need to build special device. The bending of C-shaped brackets can be accelerated by welding a 50 mm ring from a Ø100 mm pipe and a vertical clamp from a Ø15 mm rod of the same length onto a metal sheet. The hook of the desired shape is obtained by clamping a steel bar in the fixture and wrapping it around the pipe. A device for making triangular or rectangular holders can be made from wooden blocks, pieces of metal corners or profile pipes.

When making holders with your own hands, be sure to take into account their shape and size of ebbs.

After the last strip is bent, 2-3 drillings are made on the connecting parts of the brackets for fastening to wooden roof structures. In addition, pieces of wire 3–4 mm thick or strips of steel up to 1 mm thick can be welded along the edges of the curved part of the hook. They will be needed to fix the ebb in the holder.

After the last hook is made, the products are painted. Paint will add completeness to the parts and protect the metal from rust.

Video: how to make a bracket for ebb tides with your own hands

Installation of ebb tides

The fastening of galvanized ebbs is carried out in several stages, performing the work in a strict order. Only in this case can we hope that the drain will be installed at the desired angle, and individual brackets will not hang in the air. Next, we will provide instructions on which to act, but now we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the list of tools needed for the job:

• bending tool for hooks;
• mites;
• angle grinder or hacksaw;
• riveter;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• rubber mallet;
• metal scissors;
• cord;
• roulette;
• pencil.

The main condition for high-quality operation of the drain is the straightness of the gutter and compliance with the calculated slope. To mark the mounting locations of the mounting brackets, it is best to use laser level. If you don’t have such a device at hand, then you can use a simple spirit level (hydraulic level).

Installation procedure for ebb tides

The galvanized drain is a fairly lightweight structure, so the ebbs can be attached both to the rafters and to the frontal (sometimes also called wind) board. In the first case, installation is carried out at the stage of roof construction, before laying the roofing material. For these purposes, elongated brackets are used, which are placed on the rafter legs and fixed with self-tapping screws. Fastening in this way can only be done if the pitch of the rafters does not exceed 0.6 m.

When installing flashings, it is necessary to take into account the type of fastening, slope and distance from the front board

If the distance between the rafters exceeds 0.6 m, then hooks for ebb tides can be installed on the bottom board of the sheathing.

As for installing brackets on the wind board, this method makes it possible to install a drain at the final stages of construction or as needed.

Do-it-yourself installation of galvanized ebb and flows is carried out in the following order:

Since the homemade design does not provide any locking or sealing elements, the joint can be additionally protected with waterproof sealant.

The main enemy of galvanized flashings are branches from trees, which can damage the layer protective metal and accelerate corrosion. To protect the gutters, they top part covered with bars or mesh. Today you can find perforated protection of any type - made of plastic, steel or brass. You can fix the mesh at the same time as installing the gutters by placing its edge under the grips of the brackets.

Video: installation of gutters

Repair of galvanized steel gutters

Significant disadvantage gutters made of galvanized steel is that when the protective layer is damaged, the corrosion process occurs as quickly as it does with ferrous metal. Since the thickness of such castings most often does not exceed 0.7 mm, through rust appears on damaged areas within a few years.

To prevent the process of metal destruction, you should periodically inspect the ebbs and make their repairs. Most often, prophylaxis is carried out twice a year - in early spring and early autumn. Areas damaged by ice or branches should be cleaned, degreased and painted over with clear varnish for metal work. In areas of the drain that are hidden from view, any enamel for exterior use can be used for this purpose.

If it was not possible to prevent the destruction of the metal and areas with through corrosion appeared on the ebbs of galvanized steel, then they can be repaired. For this:

1. The clamps of the holding brackets are bent and the defective drainage element is removed from the bracket.
2. If the side wall of the gutter is rusty, then a galvanized steel patch is applied to the damaged area. For this from metal sheet cut a rectangle that will overlap the undamaged metal with an overlap of 20–30 mm, and secure it with rivets. To ensure that the appearance of the drain is not damaged, the drip tray is installed in place with the repaired side facing the wall.
3. If the corrosion has touched the bottom of the gutter, the leaky area is cut out entirely. To repair the ebb, use a piece of galvanized steel of the same configuration. It should be 20 cm longer than the cut part, since when installing the patch, the part is overlapped. You should definitely pay attention to how the patch will be applied. On the side of the drainage funnel it is attached on top of the ebb, while on the other edge it should be located below - this will not allow water to flow into the gap. The repair part can be secured using aluminum rivets. It will be possible to avoid water seepage if the joints are treated with a moisture-resistant sealant.

The process of making galvanized steel castings with your own hands is not difficult and is accessible even to a beginner. Because gutters will cost sheet metal, the drainage system will cost much less than a ready-made one, even if the remaining elements (funnels, pipes, etc.) are purchased at a retail chain. But that is not all. Invaluable experience working with galvanized metal will be useful in other projects. For example, when making a functional chimney deflector, a stylish weather vane or a beautiful canopy over front door.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on different topics, but my favorite ones are machinery, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands. Rate this article: Share with friends!

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How to make gutters and roofing elements from sheet metal with your own hands

Roofing iron is perhaps the cheapest way to install a drainage system and protect the roof ridges. Parts are so varied and can be so unique that they are often made locally. What is needed for this, what skills and equipment, we will tell you today.

How to bend metal correctly

Roofing elements, as a rule, are hidden from the eyes of passers-by and no decorative claims are made against them. This makes it possible to manually produce parts using templates, but you have to constantly straighten the product with a mallet.

This is not the best approach: the fold lines and the entire product as a whole turn out wavy, and work on one part can take a long time. For piece products this is quite tolerable, but if you have to surround the entire house with drainage, you should have the necessary equipment and devices at your disposal.

Today, sheet bending machines occupy their own segment in the professional tool market and are available everywhere. Their price is quite high, but only with our own, proven equipment can we produce parts of excellent quality. Renting a sheet bending machine is also an option, but a machine that passes from hand to hand will not have the necessary accuracy and reliability.

Galvanization and polymer coating: what are the differences?

For most modern machines, it makes no difference what type of sheet metal is bent on it. But there are some difficulties in working with metal coated with a polymer composition. It’s easier with galvanizing, because its protective layer is more resistant to abrasion and damage. Therefore, nothing prevents you from bending galvanized steel with blows or sliding it along a rusty template - the main thing is that there are no deep scratches.

Coating with special paint has less mechanical strength, it is thinner and peels off relatively easily. It would not be the best solution to bend rolled polymer on old sheet bending machines with defective rolls, rotary beams or loose hinges, and even more so, such metal should not be processed with a mallet. Likewise, you should not use any available devices that can damage the anti-corrosion film.

The first simple product

First, let's make the simplest roofing element - a ridge. So that it subsequently lies evenly and tightly on the roof, first determine the angle of rotation by placing a long thin strip on one of the slopes.

The width of the ridge shelves is from 15 to 30 cm; accordingly, you will need a strip twice as wide with an allowance of 10 mm on each side. This edge can have 2-3mm of unevenness, so an even cut is not necessary. Apply a marking of three longitudinal lines: the center of the ridge and both its edges. Place the strip centered on the edge of the table and press it with a block under two clamps along the marking line.

You need to place a flat board underneath the protruding edge of the sheet and bend the shelf upward, observing the marked rotation angle of ±10º. Now the workpiece needs to be released and moved back so that the edge marking line falls exactly on the edge of the block. We clamp the workpiece again and tighten the clamps well, and then we go along the edge with a mallet, turning it perpendicularly upward.

Edge processing is necessary to stiffen the ridge profile. To make them, you can also use a rule rail pressed through a block: the wedge-shaped end of the bar will allow you to bend the edge more than 90º. After preliminary bending of both edges, they need to be laid on a wooden sleeper and beaten with a mallet, flattening the bend. In many sheet benders, this operation is performed with one pass of the roller bender carriage.

When finishing the edge by hand, go from one edge to the other sequentially, and then smooth out any visual unevenness with your hands. Already at this stage, you can think about partial mechanization and creating a primitive machine. For example, if the bending bar is made of metal or hard wood and secured to two-axis hinges, the processing will be much faster and more precise.

Handmade: how to bend a gutter segment

To make parts with a radius profile from tin, you should prepare a template in advance; it is not realistic to carry out such work “on your knees”.

Take an inch tube and weld two reinforcement rods at its ends as drive handles. Make a cut along the seam of the tube with a grinder, then sand the edges well, you can even cover it with a silicone hose unraveled in two.

Clamp the strip of roofing iron on the edge of the table, insert the end into the cut and rotate the tube 360º so that the “straight” petal in the center of the twist is parallel to the rest of the sheet.

You can form the tray using a rack pipe bender, or you can use a loose 200 mm pipe. We bend the smooth edge of the workpiece at 90º, press the edge against the table with the wall of the pipe and straighten the iron with a mallet. We finish the twisted edge with our hands, bending it slightly inside the arc. Remove the workpiece from the template and press the rectangular fold.

This molding can be made in segments of 1–1.5 meters, which are then easily joined at the installation site and secured with a cutter. The presence of two stiffening ribs will prevent the tray from bending between the fastenings under the weight of the ice, and a hidden groove will allow you to further strengthen the drain on specially shaped hooks.

How to roll a sheet into a pipe

What if we aim to produce even more complex elements: hoppers and pipes? Of course, it’s better to practice in segments first, but otherwise these skills are quite understandable.

Products with a closed surface, such as pipes, tanks and funnels, are assembled using so-called seam joints. A fold, for simplicity, is a lock that can be used to connect the edges quite firmly and even hermetically. A regular (single) fold is made as a fold at the edge with two bends. On different sides of the connection, the folds are directed in the opposite direction.

Typically, folds for drainpipes are made with a fold width of 4 to 10 mm. The edges of the strip are beaten on a steel angle, then the sheet is folded, the folds are interlocked and pressed tightly with a hammer when the pipe is put on the mandrel.

There is only one difficulty in the manufacture of pipes - to ensure the possibility of joining them with each other. Therefore, before twisting the sheet, its short edge is straightened on a platform with a small threshold so that one end of the pipe is thinned by a couple of millimeters. Also, pipes can be connected using seams, but they cannot be fastened in place in this way: a large segment of the drain is assembled at the bottom, and then assembled as an assembly.

Of course, bending equipment manufacturers have something to offer in this regard. To make locks, there are folding carriages, and the metal is rolled into a pipe on a longitudinal roller bending machine. For edge thinning, crimping machines or separate pairs of rolling rolls can also be used.

Funnel making technique

If you understand that a seam joint is the essence of almost any tin product, you can give free rein to your imagination and assemble complex products from several simpler ones. An example of this is all kinds of funnels, tees and corner bends.

The funnel consists of two short pieces of pipe of a larger and smaller diameter. They are assembled like regular pipes, only their edges are flared outward by 8–12 mm. Subsequently, these bent sides are used for further production of folds, or, if there are no complaints about tightness, the hard edges are folded and fastened together with a cutter.

The riveting technique for different products may differ significantly, but in reality this is not as important as the correct drawing up of the pattern. All blanks should be cut only according to the template. For example, for the central part of a funnel - a truncated cone - the pattern is a ring segment, where the length of the inner arc is determined by the diameter of the drain, and the outer arc by the diameter of the receiving socket.

Unfortunately, the equipment for the production of such products has a very narrow specialization, and therefore is not available due to both its high price and low prevalence. However, all products made of tin and sheet metal, be it a bucket, a tank or an ordinary skate, can be made manually; machines only facilitate some operations.

rmnt.mirtesen.ru

Do-it-yourself drainage - a simple process

Before installing a drain with your own hands, you need to decide on the choice of system material. The most economical are systems made of galvanized sheet. They are durable and easy to maintain, but in private construction this moment rarely used. Systems made of plastic, metal elements coated with polymers or painted metal have become popular. However, the most expensive option is copper gutter.

When installing a metal tile roof, a drainage system made of metal with a polymer coating is installed. This material is unpretentious to temperature changes. The only drawback is the noise in rainy weather. A PVC drainage system is installed on a roof made of the same material. An internal drainage system is often used, usually in regions with a harsh climate.

Do-it-yourself external drainage must be installed before the roofing work is carried out, since the system holders must be secured to the front board or to the rafter using pins with clamps. Then hooks and brackets are attached on which the gutters are placed. When choosing a gutter, you need to take into account its type and classification. To protect the gutter from damage by heavy rain or snow, the fasteners are installed at a certain distance from each other. As a result, a slope should form between the first bracket and the last. Then a cord is pulled between them to install intermediate fasteners. If the gutters are assembled correctly, the drainage system should function smoothly, with its edge located 25 mm below the roof. We place the gutters in the brackets and seal the joints with sealant.

It is not difficult to create a drain with your own hands. You will need a galvanized steel sheet 7 mm thick. Firstly, a seam joint is made in the form of a bend along the length of the sheet. Then, using a rolling tool, the iron is rolled until it is shaped into a cylinder - this will be the drain pipe. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of the funnel, for which the rim, cone and glass are cut out of the same material, but subject to the rules: the diameter of the rim corresponds to the diameter of one of the sides of the cone with which it will be joined, and the diameter of the main pipe must match the diameter of the bottom of the glass , otherwise leakage may occur. The funnel and pipe are joined with a seam. There are no restrictions or rules regarding drainage.
Often, when making a drain, a pipe cut at an angle and attached at an angle to the drain is used. When connecting pipes from two parts, each next one should be 5 mm narrower than the previous one, which improves the tightness of the connection.

Do-it-yourself hydraulic accumulator membrane repair

Gutters protect the building from excess moisture, preventing early destruction of building materials. Gutters are installed at the final stage of building a house. Installing roof gutters is not a difficult task. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to become familiar with the installation nuances.

Installing a drain will protect the walls of your home from getting wet, thus increasing their service life

Installing a roof drain yourself will save some of the construction costs. To do this, you do not need to hire specially trained people; even a non-professional can do all the work. A drain is a device for collecting moisture from precipitation (rain, snow). The system extends the service life of the building, preserves the facade, eliminating stains.

A drainage structure is a set of elements that form a single complex on the roof and facade of a house. Gutters can be installed on a building of any configuration. In addition to their functional load, they effectively emphasize the decor of the house. Gutter structures give the building a finished look, emphasize the shape of the roof and complement the roofing material. The effect of gutters is as follows. Rain or melt water flows from the roof into the gutter, and from it enters the sewer.

How to choose the right material for drainage

Parts made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic. The cost of the system depends on the material. The most budget option galvanized drains and tin products are considered. Affordable prices today are the only advantage of such designs. The metal quickly rusts and the drain loses its appearance and becomes fragile. More expensive and of higher quality are plastic and metal-plastic structures, which are very popular today. Let's take a closer look at the characteristics of each type of drains.

Metal elements: standard gutter fastening

Metal gutters include tin and galvanized products. The main advantage of such devices is their low cost. There are many more disadvantages. Galvanized steel gutters oxidize when exposed to acid rain. Metal rusts and becomes brittle. The structure will be damaged even if frozen, it may burst. The downside is the unpleasant noise that occurs when water gets into. Galvanized steel lasts for an average of 10 years. For a private home, this is considered a short period. The production of gutters from galvanized steel includes several stages. The structure consists of the following elements:

1. galvanized pipe;
2. gutter;
3. funnel.

Additionally included are brackets, drainpipe elbow, . The structure must be sealed, securely fastened, and water must flow in a strictly specified direction.

Gutter made of galvanized steel - great option on a limited budget

Plastic structures

Plastic gutters are popular because of their durability. Such gutters retain their original appearance for decades. PVC pipes can withstand adverse weather conditions and excessive solar radiation. Plastic gutters are not susceptible to corrosion or exposure to other elements. They are combined with any types of roofing and facade materials. The downside of plastic is that it becomes fragile over time. Plasticity is lost due to temperature changes and the influence of acid rain. The installation of such structures must be carried out extremely carefully, the same applies to subsequent manipulations with such drains.

Plastic devices are resistant to low temperatures and can withstand heavy weight from snow cover. Install plastic pipes in any climatic conditions. They can withstand strong wind gusts. Plastic gutters are made in different colors: black, white, gray and brown. The manufacturer provides a guarantee on plastic for up to 25 years.

Metal-plastic products for roof mounting

Metal-plastic structures combine the advantages of metal and plastic. Drainpipes are made of metal and covered with plastic on top. They are based on a galvanized pipe. Metal-plastic pipes are the most durable. They do not rust, are not subject to breaks and cracks. Low temperatures, ultraviolet radiation, snow loads and others negative factors are not capable of damaging metal-plastic. Only mechanical impact can damage the structure.

The manufacturer guarantees that the service life of the metal-plastic drain will be at least 50 years. Today this is the most expensive and high-quality way to organize a drainage system.

Copper gutters: fastening with brackets to the wall

Copper drains differ from similar metal drains made of galvanized and tin. Copper is not subject to corrosion. Copper drains cannot be spoiled by negative natural phenomena, temperature changes. Copper - perfect material for the manufacture of gutters. The disadvantage of copper structures is their high cost. For this reason, such plums are rarely used. They are most preferable for tiled roofs.

Drainage system and its composition: units, clamps

Installing gutters yourself involves assembling individual parts together. The drain includes a standard set of parts. A gutter is a device designed to collect moisture and drain it in a given direction. The gutter has a semicircular shape. If the design requires it, you can choose an angular gutter. The gutter parameters depend on the expected load, which is calculated in proportion to the area and angle of the roof.

Gutter for drainage

Drainpipes are most often located on the external facade of the building, less often inside. They are made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic and copper. The pipe consists of segments connected to each other using different elements, for example, the knee.

Gutters are used to take water from the roof plane and direct it into the pipe. There are two types: flat and cone-shaped. Flat roof outlets are used on flat roofs. Cone-shaped ones are placed on complex roofs. The funnels are equipped with a filter mesh that prevents debris from entering the pipe and clogging it. Fasteners for drainpipes are selected based on what material is used. These can be brackets, clamps, hooks, screws.

The drainage system also includes the sewer system, into which the water drained from the building enters. In places where there is no sewerage system, water is drained into the drain. It can be open when the drainage surface is covered with a grate. This is done to avoid creating obstacles for pedestrians and to prevent debris from clogging the ditch. Every man can fix gutters.

Rules and methods for installing a metal drain: galvanized gutter on the roof

You need to install gutters correctly with your own hands; this is the key to the longevity of the house, its facade and foundation. An improper drainage system or lack thereof contributes to the early destruction of buildings. Water that is not drained in a timely manner flows down the roof, onto the façade and into the basement. The foundation is destroyed, the walls inside the room become damp, creating comfortable conditions for the spread of fungus and mold.

High-quality installation drainage is no less important than the choice of material

A galvanized drain is installed in several stages:

• It is optimal to fasten the gutter before the roof installation is completed. Otherwise, partial disassembly of the roof may be required. Mount the brackets on the eaves beam or in the rafters. It is better to use brackets with a long base. They give reliability to the entire structure. Brackets with a short base are used when the roof installation has already been completed. They are fixed to the front beam.

The brackets are placed at a distance of 9 cm from each other. A gap of 7 cm is considered optimal. This distance cannot be increased, as the drain may not withstand the snow. It’s easy to calculate how many brackets you will need. It is enough to divide the total length of the part by the fastening step. Additional brackets are added to the resulting number. They are placed at the junctions of the tray and gutter, as well as at the ends of the parts.

• The next stage is installation of the gutter. Drops fall on the façade of the building during rainstorms. To avoid this, the outer edge of the gutter should be placed 6 mm below the inner one. The edge of the material from which the roof is made must protrude beyond the tray by at least 4 cm. All that remains is to connect the gutters with each other.
• To quickly drain water, the gutter is placed in the direction of the funnel with a slight slope, which should be at least 6 mm for each meter of the gutter. Therefore, the brackets are installed with a vertical offset. To calculate the offset you need to measure the gap between the outer brackets. This size is multiplied by 0.005. We use the resulting value to place the outer brackets. We stretch the cord between them and place the remaining brackets at its level.
• Installation of a funnel. For this purpose, a hole is made in the tray using metal scissors. The distance to the top of the tray from the cutout should be 15 mm. Next, we put the funnel on and fix it. The edges of the gutters are closed with plugs.
• The final stage is the installation of drainpipes. to the wall using clamps. Initially, markings are made on the wall - the locations of the fasteners are marked. Each pipe must be secured with at least two fasteners. The pipe is secured to the wall with clamps using self-tapping screws or hardware, depending on the material the house is built from (concrete, wood, brick).

Drain gutter mounting diagram

Installation of the drainage system is completed by connecting all parts of the drainpipes. A galvanized steel drain should be placed no more than 20 cm from the drainage point, otherwise the water will splash heavily.

Features of installing a plastic structure with your own hands: the correct diagram

It is easier to install gutters correctly on a plastic roof. Initially, you need to determine where the storm drains for the roof will be located. All water draining from the roof should fall into them. Hatches and funnels are marked. Each funnel is designed for the volume of water flowing from a 12-meter tray. The next step is to mark the mounting points for the brackets.

Gutters must be installed with a slope towards the drainpipe. For each meter of gutter, the slope should be 0.5 cm. We calculate the displacement index, install brackets along the edges of the structure, and use a cord to mark the location of the remaining fasteners. The brackets should be located 40 cm from each other.

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure on the roof, all elements of the system on the ground must be laid out and connected. This can be done using plastic glue or connecting elements, which are sold separately. If you use glue, the structure will end up being permanent, and this can make it difficult to maintain. In the event that the structure needs to be dismantled, the glued parts will have to be cut. With connectors, this problem can be avoided. The design will be easily removable.

After all the brackets are secured, a gutter is installed in them, then a funnel and plugs at the ends of the structure. Drainpipes are installed under funnels. The funnel and pipe are connected with a special connecting element. It is not recommended to use glue for this. If the pipe becomes clogged, it will not be possible to disassemble the structure for cleaning. The position of the drainpipe in relation to the wall is adjusted using a square and engineering level. The pipe should be positioned vertically without the slightest deviation. The pipe is mounted to the wall using clamps. The clamps should be placed no more than 1 meter apart. The pipe should be positioned 2 cm from the wall. The lower end of the drainpipe should not be strictly fixed; it is recommended to keep it in a movable state to control the drainage of water.

WATCH THE VIDEO

So, the independent installation of the drain is completed. If you approach the matter responsibly and do not make mistakes inherent in inexperienced masters, you can get an excellent result. Fastening gutters is not a complicated procedure, but it does require certain skills.

Until recently, galvanized gutters were considered not very popular due to the fact that galvanizing, according to popular belief, does not last long. Yes, and such gutters would not have been called attractive back in Soviet times, and it would have been difficult for such drains to fit into modern design Houses. But during the boom of more diverse plastic drainage systems, foreign companies were actively working on the composition of galvanized ones all this time, and the final quality increased significantly.

Of course, thanks modern technologies There is no need to use only galvanized pipes, as before, but it is from this material that you can easily make your own spectacular and non-standard drainage systems, and not just weather vanes and canopies. Therefore, let's figure out why a modern galvanized drain is valuable and how to design, manufacture and install it yourself.

Until relatively recently, almost all drainage systems in Russia were made from metal only, although galvanized drains were rarely used due to their high cost. But modern drainage systems made of such material have the highest resistance to ultraviolet rays, temperature changes and corrosion of all metal ones.

We are talking about steel of a special alloy, which is also durable and resistant to serious mechanical damage. Moreover, you can choose the protective coating in all its diversity as matte. and glossy, and modern galvanized gutters are coated with plastisol, pural or polyester. But until recently, only manufacturers of plastic drainage systems offered at least some color range, but today both steel and aluminum systems have such designer luxury. The only gutter that is still not customary to paint is copper.

This is what a modern galvanized steel drain looks like:

The only disadvantage that you will still have to face is the frequency of repairs, because... Due to thermal expansion and contraction, the seams in such drains often come apart. Well, such disadvantages should then be compared with plastic cracks, the fragility of ordinary metal gutters and the special attractiveness of copper ones for swindlers.

And keep in mind that galvanized gutters are not suitable for everyone roofing materials. The fact is that if bitumen was used as part of the roofing covering, as in flexible tiles, then in the heat it melts and sometimes ends up on the pipes themselves. And there the bitumen enters into a chemical reaction with the protective layer of galvanized gutters - polymers. And this causes rust in a short time.

But most of all, galvanized drainage is still valued for the ease of working with it:

Stage I. Making a decision: ready-made or home-made drainage system?

Galvanization is roofing galvanized iron. Its main advantage is that such a drain is the most resistant to corrosion of all metal ones and at the same time is light in weight. It is a pleasure to work with him: cutting, processing, securing. But there is a significant difference in which gutter manufacturer you will install.

Quality and durability

Note that the production of modern galvanized gutters is quite complex and even high-tech. For such systems, only high-quality sheets are used, which ultimately turn out to be much more practical and viable than modern rolled metal or plastic. Therefore, such drains - whether made by hand or industrial - ultimately:

• resistant to corrosion, precipitation and climatic conditions;
• durable due to polymer coating;
• versatile and affordable;
• at the same time they are also light in weight.

The thing is that now such gutters are mostly made of high-quality galvanized steel 0.6 millimeters thick, with a special polymer decorative coating, which is developed using modern technologies. For example, domestic manufacturer“Insi” offers galvanized gutters with a special protective layer “Plastisol” 100 microns or “Pural” 50 microns. Such products are durable, easy to assemble and come in a variety of design solutions.

By the way, galvanized gutters with a polymer coating are also produced today by Ruukki (Finland), Siba (Sweden), Aquasystem (Germany-Russia), Metal Profile and Lamiera. Such gutters and pipes are coated with zinc and polymer material still in factory conditions. All this allows them to be resistant to mechanical damage, corrosion and fading. At the same time, their color range is quite wide, and you can easily select a system to match the color of your existing roof or facade.

Galvanized gutters from Lindab and Fricke Braas are also known for their quality. In such drains, accidental damage is easily repaired, and leaks are sealed.

If you are not very knowledgeable about brands, or you have a good opportunity to purchase high-quality galvanized gutters from friends, then remember, galvanized gutters have their own quality requirements, thanks to which you can determine how durable the system you are purchasing for your home. So, carefully examine the control sample of pipes: the outer surface of the sheet should be perfectly clean, with a continuous coating - this is very important. There should be no small cracks or sagging of color. Also, such a pipe must have all edges perfectly smooth!

Basic and additional elements

The finished gutter system made of galvanized steel includes all the necessary fastening elements: hooks, clamps, covers, curved elbows, plugs, etc. Their task is to ensure the necessary tightness of water drainage in the right direction. Therefore, you can easily install such a system on a reinforced concrete, brick or wooden wall, of any configuration and in the desired direction.

Moreover, the drain itself made of such material should not be exclusively semicircular. Literally 30 years ago, galvanized gutters with rectangular and more complex profiles, which beautifully imitate a cornice, appeared on the Russian market:

Stage II. Designing a future drainage system

The rules are quite simple:

1. If the roof area is less than 50 square meters, then you will need gutters 100 mm wide and pipes 75 mm in diameter;
2. If the roof is from up to 100 square meters, you need gutters of 125 mm and pipes with a diameter of 87 mm;
3. If the roof covers enough large building and its total area exceeds 100 square meters, then install 150 mm gutters and 100 mm pipes, or another combination of them - 190 mm gutters and 120 mm pipes, this is also possible.

Now we calculate the funnels for the galvanized drain. One standard funnel can collect rainwater over an area of ​​about 100 square meters. Although much here depends on the size of the drainage system itself. For example, if it is equal to the parameters 150x100, then one funnel will collect water from 150 square meters or 15 linear meters gutters. But it’s easier to calculate the number of vertical pipes: just divide the height of the building by the length of the drainpipe you purchased (usually 1-2-3 meters) and multiply by the number of funnels.

Stage III. We prepare drainage elements

So, now let’s figure it out if you decide to purchase a galvanized sheet and build a drain for your home yourself. Working with galvanization is not difficult, because its protective layer is quite resistant to abrasion and damage, so such parts can be easily bent and even subjected to impacts. The main thing is to avoid deep scratches while working, that’s all.

The easiest way to cut industrial galvanized gutters is with a fine-toothed saw - a hacksaw or a special metal saw. And to make small holes, use special metal scissors. But there is one point here: for galvanized drainage elements you cannot use an angular grinding machine according to the type of grinder, because it heats up the steel and destroys the galvanized coating.

Preparations need to be made in advance - these are templates for all drainage elements. For example, for a funnel it is a ring segment, and for a pipe it is a rectangle. Moreover, you can easily cope with all this on your own, and industrial or home-made machines will only make the process a little easier for you. Today you can purchase quite a variety of bending equipment for this matter, for example, roller benders or a creasing machine, or even rolling beams:

These are the items you will need to make:

Or even limit ourselves to such a brilliantly simple option, which has the right to life for a small country house or garden building:

And in order to make a high-quality drainage system from this material, you will not need much:

• galvanized iron sheets, about 0.7 mm thick;
• ordinary metal scissors;
• hammer, mallet and pliers.

Make all closed galvanized drainage products with a seam connection. This is a lock that holds the seams together and is quite airtight. The easiest way for you to make a single fold with a simple layout at the edges and with two bends. If you want to make something more complicated, then direct the folds in opposite directions. For drainpipes, a seam with a seam width of 4 to 10 mm is sufficient, so do not complicate the whole process. By the way, almost all galvanized drainage elements are connected using the seam method. Therefore, you can easily make angles and tees of any inclination, angle and configuration.

Here is one of the most popular methods for manufacturing galvanized drainage elements:

• Step 1. Pay close attention to the galvanized sheet itself: it must be smooth, with a uniform surface and processed edges. And, when you start designing your future drainage system, separately outline all the elements you need. After this, place the galvanized sheet on a hard surface and draw a pattern for the future part with a sharp object.
• Step 2. If you are working on making a pipe, then the width of the pattern should be equal to the future diameter of the product plus 12 centimeters on each side for the seam. Also increase the length of the drain by a couple of centimeters. Now use metal scissors to cut out the workpiece, outline the bend of the fold and bend the edges with a mallet. For this, only half a centimeter will be enough.
• Step 3. It will be easy to give your workpiece the shape of a drainpipe: just wrap it around an object of the desired shape, for example, a plastic pipe.
• Step 4. Now cut the gutters and pipes using a hacksaw. All burrs should be thoroughly cleaned with a simple file, otherwise they will interfere with the sealing of the drainage joints.
• Step 5. Simply fold the edges of the strips onto the angle steel, then roll up the sheet and secure the whole thing with a hammer.
• Step 6. Now make an L-shaped fold and hook the edge into the lock. Secure this edge by tapping the edges with a hammer. Just be sure to follow all precautions to avoid injury or cuts from the sharp edges of the sheet metal.

Here is a good example also complex manufacturing galvanized steel gutters:

The only difficulty you will encounter is connecting homemade elements to each other. To do this, slightly adjust the short edge of the sheet before rolling it so that it becomes thinner by a couple of millimeters.

Here is another practical instruction for working with this material:

• Step 1. For the pipe, you need to cut a blank from a single sheet, on one side 3.40 meters and the other 3.30 meters.
• Step 2. Now we make seams for the pipe on both sides. To do this, on a metal corner we simply bend the edges of the leaflet 7 mm each with a mallet and bend them in different directions from each other at an angle of 90 degrees.
• Step 3. Turn the workpiece over with the curved corners up and use a mallet to achieve this angle to 130-150 degrees.
• Step 4. As a result, your workpiece should protrude only 1 cm from the corner, and tap it with a mallet along the entire length of the corner. Make such blows that they are strong and confident. Your mallet should lie exactly on the plane of the corner, and at the same time not deviate either to the right or to the left, so as not to damage the seam.
• Step 5. Now we crimp the workpiece around some other pipe and interlock the seams. After this, hit the workpiece with a mallet at the point of adhesion until the corners are completely crossed.
• Step 6. Cut your finished pipe into individual elements The most ordinary can opener will help you, oddly enough. Only after cutting, clean the edges.

If you did everything correctly, your parts should fit easily with other elements of the drainage system, even factory-made ones.

Stage IV. Preparing the roof for gutter installation

The entire installation process of a galvanized drainage system includes 7 main stages:

• Step 1. Marking on the walls and roof.
• Step 2. Fastening the outer elements for the gutter.
• Step 3. Restore the level and level the suspension to the desired slope.
• Step 4. Installation connection of gutters.
• Step 5. Connecting the funnels.
• Step 6. Fastening the clamps for the vertical elements of the drains.
• Step 7. Fixing the drainage pipes.

This step-by-step illustration clearly shows the process itself:

In your work you will need the following tools:

Stage V. Installation of fasteners

For a galvanized drain, due to its lightness, the most rational method of fastening to rafter legs is considered. This option is ideal for roofs with a large surface area. Gutters can be installed in this way only before the roofing is laid. Combined brackets with extensions are used here as a fastening element. They are fixed directly to rafter leg, if the rafter pitch is no more than 60 centimeters:

Another option is to install a fastening element on the sheathing if the pitch of the rafters does not exceed 60 cm. This method is especially common if the roof is covered with metal tiles or ondulin.

It’s easier to work with brackets that are attached to the side of the rafters. In fact, the slope of the gutter is created due to the fact that each subsequent bracket is attached slightly lower than the previous one.

The most difficult thing is to screw on the front brackets, because they need to be installed on the wind board. In this case, it is very important to determine the direction of the gutter slope and calculate the difference between the levels of the first and last bracket:

Stage VI. Installation of horizontal drainage elements

Modern galvanized gutters are connected using brackets, latches, locks or rubber gaskets. The easiest installation process is a special snap-on design:

• Step 1. All gutters must be aligned symmetrically in the center so that the joint remains 3-4 millimeters between them.
• Step 2: Now pull the front of the connector towards the gutter and snap the lock into place.
• Step 3. The next step is to lock the lock itself by returning the latch to its original position.
• Step 4. Next, install additional hooks at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the connection of the gutters.
• Step 5. Now the curl of the gutter needs to be inserted into the curl of the corner to a depth of 2-3 cm, and then sealed.
• Step 6. Secure the connection with two rivets and install an additional gutter connector.
• Step 7. The curl on the plugs must be placed at an angle and turned in the opposite direction. You should feel that the plug is inserted into the gutter all the way. Use special glue to seal and secure. But on the back side of the gutter, the plug needs to be secured with rivets.
• Step 8. Now we mount the funnel. Hook its front edge onto the front edge of the gutter and turn the funnel in its direction so that the retaining plate bends inside the gutter. If desired, insert a “spider” into the funnel at this stage.
• Step 11. At the last stage, we make the transition from the funnel to the drainpipe. To do this you need two universal elbows. Consider water drainage below.
• Step 12. Mount corner elements gutters according to the marks as you did with the funnel and gutter connectors.
• Step 13. Then install plugs at the ends of the gutters so that the distance to the gable roof boards is at least 3 centimeters.
• Step 14. Install the pipes starting from the funnel. If the roof offset is small, then use a coupling or coupling outlet.
• Step 15. Install the pipe bracket and leave 10mm to accommodate thermal expansion - this is a very important point.

Here is a good master class on this topic:

Drainpipes, where water flows from the gutters, must be secured to the walls of the house using special holders. These consist of a clamp that covers the pipe and a fastening element that is directly mounted into the wall. Most often this is a long nail, a plate with screws, or a special pointed rod.

Holders should be located above each pipe connection. For example, when installing long straight sections, the holders should be fastened in increments of up to 2 meters. Moreover, for walls made of different materials(brick or wood) you need to use your own fasteners.

Here's the whole process in detail:

Drainpipes, in which water flows from the gutters, must be secured to the walls of the house using holders. Typically, such an element is a screw, a nail, a pointed rod or a plate that is attached with screws. It is important that the holders are located under each socket - this is the junction of the pipes.

When you install long and straight sections of pipes, attach the holders in 1.8 meter increments. Please note that different holders are used for wooden and brick walls. So, in the drainage system kit brick walls Typically, screws and a plastic dowel are offered, under which holes are pre-drilled to suit its size. TO wooden walls gutters are secured using a plate with screws or a rod. A long rod is simply driven into the wood, but you can’t do without plates when the walls are too thin.

Stage VII. Protects galvanized gutters from scratches and corrosion

The main enemy of galvanized gutters and drains is branches and debris that fall onto the roof with the wind and are washed into the drain by rain. These are capable of scratching even the most resistant polymer coating(and it’s much worse without it at all), and therefore it is better to protect the entire system as much as possible.

The simplest method is gratings, which are produced today in standard parameters: slotted, perforated, of stainless steel, plastic, galvanized, brass and cast iron. They need to be secured with a latch or with screws and nuts. It is important that the top surface of the grating remains 25 mm below the surface of the roofing so that rainwater drains well into the gutter.

In turn, the basket will also help to cope with the problem. Water flows through the gutters, and the basket retains the largest contaminants, such as leaves and branches. This basket is easy to remove and clean, which is its advantage. Also like this modern element gutter system, like a sand trap, is designed to do the same thing as a rain gutter, but it traps smaller dirt and sand.

Lastly, plugs are installed. They are installed at the end of a row of gutters and equipped with a pipe. The plugs must be connected to the sewer channel and docked together necessary elements systems.

At the end of the channel, install storm water inlets or drainage wells. After all, if you have a problem with flooding of the site and you want to organize at least some collection of melt and rain water, then connect the drainage system with a linear drainage system.

The problem is that rainwater from the roofs, falling on the ground, drains it and always turns into perched water. Over time, it can not only complicate the operation of the site, but also affect the very condition of the house. It makes the walls damp, floods the basement and washes away the soil from under the foundation. Cracks on walls most often occur when the area is rainy and drainage is not provided. But, if you approach the issue of installing a galvanized drain correctly, no problems will arise!