Making kitchen furniture with your own hands, the subtleties of the process. How to make a kitchen set with your own hands What to make kitchen furniture from

Kitchen furniture from a workshop or factory arrives in disassembled condition. You can entrust the assembly to specialists, but few can do it better than the owner. Only those who work “as if for themselves,” and such are extremely rare. Because collect kitchen set many people prefer to do it themselves. It will take a decent amount of time, but the quality will be excellent.

Tools

Before assembling the kitchen set, you need to assemble the tools for work. Wanted simple tools, but they significantly speed up and simplify the work.

It's a good idea to have a plane builder or laser level. It makes arranging cabinets in one plane much easier.

Assembly of kitchen cabinets

The disassembled kitchen set is a set of boards of different sizes, a certain amount of fittings and a set of fasteners. From all this you need to assemble cabinets. Usually there are wall-mounted and floor-mounted ones. How to assemble a kitchen set, in what order - the choice is yours. Some craftsmen find it more convenient to assemble them in pairs - the top one, then the bottom one, and install it that way. But there are two other ways: first collect all the top ones, hang them on the wall, then all the bottom ones. They do the opposite - assemble and install the lower ones, then the upper ones. In general, any method is correct, do what is convenient for you.

The correct installation of the confirmation is in the middle

Assembly of wall cabinets

In any case, let's start assembling the cabinets. A typical wall cabinet consists of two side panels, a top, a bottom, a back wall made of HDF and two doors - the facade. The assembly order is as follows:

Installing hinges

The facades (doors) are finally hung after everything is assembled and put in place, but the hinges are installed from the very beginning. They come in mortise (considered more reliable) and overhead.

Types of hinges - mortise overhead

The mounting points are marked on the sidewall and door with holes. Place the side panel and the door on a flat surface (table or floor) close to each other, aligning the marks. We put the hinges in place (included in the kit). Screw it first to the side, then to the facade. In this case, the door turns out to be slightly lower in level than the side panel. Place a block of suitable size or a rolled-up rag under it so that it is at the same level, then screw the loop.

We disassemble the hinge itself (it consists of two detachable hinges that are connected by a screw. We unscrew this screw, put the doors aside, and continue working with the sides.

Assembling the body

We attach the top and bottom to the sides. They are attached to confirmations - special furniture fasteners that come with a hex head. If there is an appropriate bit, we put it on the screwdriver; if not, we work with a hand wrench.

The installation locations of the confirmations are marked on the outer part of the sidewalls. We fold the side panel and the top part, install the fasteners, then the bottom, and then the second side panel.

We turn it face down, lay and align the sheet of laminated fiberboard, which serves as the back wall. It is nailed down with small nails or staples from. First they nail it in the corners, carefully aligning the edges, then in the middle of each side and then, dividing each section in half. As a result, the installation frequency is 1 nail/staple per approximately 10 cm.

Installation of corners or hinges, shelf holders

Hinges on which wall hangings are hung kitchen cabinets There are different ones, they are installed differently. We'll talk about them in more detail below. Shelf holders also come in different materials and shapes, but they are mounted basically the same way - into holes in the wall. Holes are drilled in the sides for them. Sometimes we install plastic choppers (small hollow plastic cylinders) in them, hammer them in by lightly tapping them with a furniture hammer, then place stops for shelves in them. But most metal stops (which are probably what you need in kitchen cabinets) simply fit into the hole.

Actually, you know everything about how to assemble a wall kitchen cabinet. For a visual demonstration, watch the video. Floor cabinets with shelves without drawers are assembled in the same way, only first the legs are installed on the bottom and top part- this is a countertop, and it is common to all cabinets and is installed after all the floor cabinets are installed and fastened.

Assembling a cabinet with drawers

We continue to assemble the kitchen set with our own hands. Now the most difficult moment is the cabinets with drawers. The general procedure is as follows: install the hinges, bottom and back wall. The top-table top is installed after all the cabinets are assembled and fastened together with ties. There are also features - drawer guides need to be attached to the sides. Go.

Installing the feet

Before assembling the kitchen set, legs are installed further on the bottom. You can install the legs after the frame is assembled, but rotating a heavy bedside table is not very easy. In any case, it is best if they are adjustable - the floor is not always perfectly level. WITH adjustable legs it is possible to set them so that the load is redistributed across all legs. For small cabinets - up to 80 cm in length - 4 stops are installed; for cabinets over 80 cm, 6 support points are needed.

If there is a partition in the closet, we place the legs under it. If there is no partition - in the middle. 5-8 cm are removed from the edges, screwed onto self-tapping screws 15 mm long (with a chipboard thickness of 18 mm). Most finished furniture also has countersinks for the legs—small-diameter holes. Align the slots in the legs with the holes and install the screws.

Installation of guides and assembly for drawers

On the sides of the lower cabinets there are markings for installing guides (they are included in the kit). For their fastening, an M6*13 euroscrew is used. We install the required number of guides on both sidewalls.

The boxes are assembled using 4*45 screws. First, the guides are installed. Depending on the design, they can be mounted on the walls of the box or on the bottom edge of the sidewall. If there are markings (holes) on the wall, then they are placed on the sides. If not, go to the end. To be sure, check the assembly instructions. There should be pictures of the installation process.

After the guides are connected, the sides are connected to the back wall, then the front wall is installed, followed by the bottom. Before installing the bottom, check the diagonals. They must match down to the millimeter. The bottom is secured with nails or staples.

Assembling the body

The assembly of the case is already familiar: we attach the lid to the sides, then the lower part with the legs. We put the cabinet in place, tighten the legs so that the top lid is at the desired height and is horizontal. We check the horizon using a bubble or laser level. Then we install the covers.

Features of assembling a corner cabinet

The main feature is that in budget kitchen sets the bottom consists of two parts (to reduce costs). If a sink is installed in this cabinet, the back wall is almost absent, but there are several collet ties that add rigidity to the structure. Otherwise, everything is the same as when assembling a regular cabinet with doors.

How to hang cabinets in the kitchen

Even before assembling the kitchen set, you need to purchase canopies and intersections for attaching wall cabinets furniture ties. Let's start with awnings, they come in different types, so let's talk about them.

You already know how to assemble a kitchen set, you need to figure out how to install it in place. Kitchen wall cabinets are mounted on the wall. They are secured using furniture canopies. They come in the form of metal plates with holes for fasteners, but there are also more complex designs. Cheaper ones are ordinary metal plates. They can be different shapes, are made of ordinary or galvanized steel.

Simple awnings

The most common option (top left) is a plate with two small holes for fasteners and one large one (a hook or a screw head installed in the wall is inserted into it). It is installed on the end of the sidewalls - on the right and left. Under heavy load, this type of canopy can break, since the fasteners are located at a short distance from each other and the chipboard can fall apart. The bottom option is more reliable - more fasteners, but there is still a risk.

The other two types of furniture canopies are more reliable, since one of the screws will also be installed in the cabinet lid, that is, the load will be distributed over a larger area.

The corners performed well. One edge of this canopy is attached through the lid. A through hole is made, a bolt with a washer is installed at the bottom, and a nut (also with a washer) is tightened at the top. They are installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge; if a large load is expected, you can install three or four pieces, which was impossible with previous models.

Kitchen cabinets are hung on corners with pads - to compensate for the difference in the thickness of the apron

The common drawback of all these mounts is that they are not adjustable. As they hanged, so it will be. There is no way to move it away from the wall or towards the wall. If it protrudes above the plane. walls, you have to mount a plank on the wall or select a lining (a piece of plywood, a piece of wood, etc.) for each fastener. The second drawback is that a separate hook or dowel must be installed under each canopy. Not very comfortable.

Adjustable

A more complex and expensive canopy consists of a plastic body, a metal canopy and an adjustment system that allows you to move it forward/backward and up/down. These canopies are attached to the side walls of the cabinet from the inside, in back wall a small hole is cut. These canopies are paired with a mounting rail or strip. It is mounted on the wall, and the hooks of the awnings cling to its upper protrusion. Installing and removing wall cabinets with this fastening system is very simple, and they have a sufficient “loading capacity” of 20-50 kg per canopy (depending on the model and manufacturer).

How to install a kitchen unit

As already mentioned, the order in which the lockers are installed is arbitrary. You can hang the top ones first, then the bottom ones, or vice versa. It doesn't matter. The installation order is important: always start from the corner. How smooth this first cabinet will be will determine how easy the subsequent installation will be.

The installation height of wall cabinets depends on the height of the “users”, but not lower than 45 cm from the level of the countertop. When hanging cabinets on the wall, mark a horizontal line. It can be drawn using a bubble or water level, but the easiest way is to expand the plane to the required height using a level or plane builder. The upper edge of the mounting strip is installed along this line or the cabinets are aligned when installed on conventional canopies.

The task is both simple and difficult at the same time - to arrange the cabinets so that they are on the same level, and their walls are vertical and horizontal. In this case, there will be no problems during operation.

Since kitchen furniture consists of separate cabinets, they are fastened together. There are two options - install, then fasten, or first fasten, then hang. The second option is possible if you have helpers - hanging even two fastened cabinets alone is not an easy task.

The cabinets are fastened together using intersectional ties. They are of different diameters and different lengths - under laminated chipboard different thicknesses. At least two ties are needed for one wall. They are placed in the area of ​​the loops - a little lower or a little higher. Two cabinets are placed in the same plane, their walls are fastened with clamps, a through hole is made - along the diameter of the tie, into which the fasteners are installed, tightened with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

How to install a countertop on a kitchen unit

To finally assemble the kitchen set, you need to install the countertop. It is fastened after the cabinets are pulled together. Steel corners are installed on the walls, which secure the tabletop. Watch the video for details on processing ends and cutouts for sinks.

How to process sections of laminated chipboard countertops, see the following video. It will be useful for those who want to assemble a kitchen set according to all the rules.

Video on assembling kitchen furniture

Furnishing a kitchen with practical and effective furniture is not a trivial task. How can you contrive so that the furniture fits perfectly into the interior, perfectly tolerates the peculiarities of the local microclimate, appeals to the whole family, and does not ruin the family budget with its cost? ready-made proposals I didn’t find such a “golden mean”, maybe I should try to make it myself? After all, assembling a kitchen set with your own hands is quite simple - with correct measurements and accurate calculations, such work can be done by anyone who has at least once tightened a screw or sawed a board with their own hands. Don't believe me? Let's take a step-by-step look at all the nuances of the upcoming work!

The most common mistake many home craftsmen make is overestimating their own strengths. Having decided to equip the kitchen with self-made furniture, they begin to plan the most “sophisticated” options, guided by a picture they liked from a design magazine, or even their own imagination. But at the same time, they absolutely do not take into account their real skills, both in design and in banal assembly. Therefore, novice furniture makers, before making a kitchen set with their own hands, are advised to listen to the advice of more experienced craftsmen.

The simplest version of a kitchen set for country house

Rules to note:

  • The principle “the simpler, the more reliable” works great for beginners in the furniture business. Take classic rectilinear designs as a basis - they are easy both to measure and to assemble.

DIY kitchen from wooden planks

  • A sign of professionalism when creating a kitchen set is a clearly visible symmetry in the arrangement of individual pieces of furniture and the design of facades.

Symmetrical cabinets under the finished cornice look very neat

  • Even the simplest modular set, fit into the interior without gaps or protruding parts, looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing. And the functionality will be added by the use of easy-to-use new products, for example, cargo, organizers or boxes with on-site systems.

Cargo boxes are made for tight spaces

Organizer dividers can be purchased ready-made or made yourself

  • You can add a touch of “exclusivity” through original furniture fronts, which usually come to the fore. You can make them entirely yourself, order them ready-made, or decorate them to your own taste.

Facades with photo printing will become a spectacular decoration of any interior.

Vinyl stickers for budget decor

On a note! If you take standard furniture sizes as a basis, you can significantly reduce the cost of materials and their processing.

Standard or exclusive – which materials to choose?

If you are starting to make furniture for the first time, choose materials of the middle and low price category - after all, no one is immune from mistakes and damage to the workpieces. Having practiced working with cheaper frame parts, facades can already be made from natural wood or glass. But no matter what option you choose, it is important to take care of protecting the future headset from changes in temperature and humidity.

To create a reliable body, you can use any types of particle boards and fiberboards with an external coating:

  1. Laminated chipboard is the most common “furniture” material, which is used both for mounting the frame and for creating facades. It is not too heavy, quite strong, and the high-quality laminate cladding of the slab provides good protection from moisture. In addition, the material is inexpensive and has a wide range of colors and imitations of expensive coatings. For kitchen furniture A standard sheet thickness of 16 mm is quite sufficient.

laminated chipboard – budget material for self-assembly of furniture

Disadvantages: The chipboard must be covered with an external protection - otherwise, when heated, the stove may emit an unpleasant odor and evaporate formaldehyde compounds. Although the material is quite simple to install, it is not possible to assemble/disassemble the case or screw in screws several times - due to the large number of internal voids, the fasteners become loose and do not hold well.

Important! The most durable is considered to be lining the slabs with plastic (postforming). The protective layer is applied under high pressure and literally fuses with the wood, without peeling off even with temperature changes and prolonged contact with water.

Chipboard with plastic protection

  1. MDF – fibreboard holds fastenings well, does not evaporate harmful substances, can be easily processed (including shaped milling), which allows you to create non-standard shapes and original decor. As protective coating use laminate, PVC film, natural or artificial veneer, plastic, paint and varnish products.

Disadvantages: the price of blanks is 1.5-2 times higher than analogues made from chipboard.

  • Fiberboard or LDVP—thin chipboard—is a practical and lightweight option for making the back walls of a set.

But for facades, the choice of material is not limited to wood boards. Here you can use solid natural wood, rattan, bamboo, glass... The main thing is the master’s confidence in own strength during processing and assembly.

On a note! Facades are the “face” of the kitchen. Therefore, if you don’t have enough practical skills in furniture making, but want to create a set with an original pattern or milling, you can order ready-made facades or give blanks for decoration to craftsmen with professional equipment.

You can choose ready-made facades to suit any interior style

All of the above materials (with the exception of fiberboard) are also used to make countertops with your own hands. Facing with acrylic or other artificial stone, plastic, or metal also looks good, but such products are usually made to order.

Advice! When choosing a material, don’t be too lazy to go to a building materials store and carefully study all the possible options with your own eyes. With this approach, it will be much easier to imagine the appearance of your future furniture.

Selection of materials for self-made furniture is very wide

Preparatory stage

The lion's share of the price for furniture goes to design and calculations, since even a non-professional assembler can make a kitchen set with his own hands from processed blanks. Therefore, creating own design kitchen wall for a specific interior, you really save. And don’t worry, the experts assure you that you won’t need advanced mathematics for such calculations—it’s enough to know the basics of arithmetic.

Accurate calculation is the basis of success

To take measurements correctly, arm yourself with a tape measure, a level, a calculator and a piece of paper to record the data obtained. It would be a good idea to involve an assistant in the work - after all, the dimensions of many pieces of furniture exceed the arm span of one person, and the calculations may be subject to errors.

We act in stages:

  • First, a general measurement of the room is made to calculate the length and height of the walls, as well as indicate the exact location of window and door openings, window sills, communications (gas, sewer, heating and water pipes, ventilation, sockets and switches).

Important! All dimensional parameters are measured at least three times (for example, the length of the wall is determined at the ceiling, at the baseboard level and in the center) in order to level out deviations due to possible curvature.

  • The measurements taken are plotted on the drawing (if there is a difference in the measurements, the minimum value is taken for calculations). Such a diagram can be drawn up either on paper or in a computer graphics program. PRO100 is considered the most convenient for beginning designers, but others can be used - AutoCad, BlumDynalog or Basis Furniture Maker. In any of these programs you can get finished sketch in 3D format, and in some (for example, BlumDynalog) there is also a module for cutting components with all the markings and assembly diagram.

Creating a kitchen project using a computer program

  • Then calculations are made for each piece of furniture. Moreover, it is necessary to take into account household appliances- refrigerator, stove (or oven and separate hob), range hood, microwave, dishwasher, dryer and other large or small appliances.

Important! In addition to the size of the equipment, the placement of sockets for it should also be provided.

Communication diagram for the kitchen wall

  • At the last stage, detailed markings of each cabinet and bedside table are made for shelves, drawers, fastenings and other fittings. If you are going to install purchased standard parts in them, check the dimensions in advance so as not to miss the calculations.

Ready-made fillers for kitchen drawers

For those who have a well-developed spatial imagination, a simple paper drawing is sufficient. For others, a color 3D sketch will be more visual, thanks to which you can not only make precise markings, but also decide on the design of the headset.

The kitchen project can be depicted on paper

Attention! To order cutting of material for a future set, you must have a dimensional diagram of each part.

An example of a detailed diagram for making a corner cabinet for a sink

Ordering and receiving materials

Having completely decided how to make a kitchen set with your own hands, the finished drawings are transferred to the workshop, where the parts are cut from them. The cost of work will depend on the following factors:

  • complexity of material processing;
  • compliance of sizes with furniture standards;
  • quantity of blanks (for a large order you can get a significant discount);
  • the need for additional processing of cuts;
  • urgency.

Important! If during marking it turns out that some parts require additional holes for pipes or other elements, be sure to indicate their location and diameter in the drawing. To cut it yourself, you need at least a jigsaw, and this is far from a guarantee of neat cuts.

After a few days, all ordered items will be delivered to your hands. Be sure to check the presence of each part and their dimensions, color matching and defects, as well as the quality of the cut itself.

Blanks for assembling a kitchen set

Attention! There should be no large chips or cracks on the coating - they can lead to premature loss of its protective qualities and deformation of the entire product.

A defect in the processing of sections can spoil the appearance of a new headset

Edging the ends of parts

The edges of the resulting laminated chipboard or MDF blanks must be further processed, since they remain uncoated (the solid can simply be coated with paint, varnish or wax-oil impregnation). To do this, edging (or trimming) is carried out - gluing bare areas with narrow melamine or plastic tape. You can perform this procedure at home.

Important! The meterage of the adhesive tape is determined by the dimensions of the parts with cuts. The edge should be 4 mm wider than the end of the part and match the color of the main coating.

Edge cutting is carried out according to the following plan:

  • The laminated chipboard part is installed with the cut up; it is not necessary to fix it, you can simply hold it.
  • The edge tape is pressed against the end with the adhesive side inward.
  • To improve adhesion, the glued tape should be heated (it is enough to iron the melamine tape with an iron set to medium heat, but the plastic one needs to be heated stronger and longer, for example using a hair dryer).

End processing at home

On a note! In order not to spoil the coating of the tape, when working with an iron, it can be covered with a sheet of paper or a thin cloth.

  • After the edge has stuck and cooled, it is necessary to remove the protruding edges. Excess melamine tape can be easily cut off with a regular wallpaper knife; for plastic it is better to use hacksaw blade.
  • Finally, it is recommended to process the cuts with medium sandpaper or a fine file to remove roughness and slightly round the corners.

Advice! Although the process of closing the ends is not complicated, it is quite time-consuming and requires care and precision. This service can be offered in the workshop where the sawing was ordered, and if they have an edge banding machine, you should agree.

Edging workpieces using professional equipment – ​​quickly and reliably

Preparation of parts - marking and drilling holes

At this stage, it is necessary to mark the places for fasteners on the workpieces and drill holes for the screws.

To make the holes you will need a drill and wood drill bits

We act in stages:

  • First we work with the side walls. Place them on a flat surface inside up (like an open book). Referring to the drawn plan, we calculate and mark the places where the horizontal lines fit - the bottom, lid and shelves. To do this, you can use a board of the same thickness as the material of the workpieces - it is easy to draw an even line along it at the required distance. To mark the location of the shelves, we use a tape measure and the same board.
  • In the center of the marked contact of the horizontals (that is, at a distance of 8 mm from the drawn lines with a board thickness of 16 mm), we mark the drilling points. They should be 50-100 mm (depending on the depth of the cabinet) from the outer edge. For clarity, you can make small indentations in these places with an awl.
  • We drill holes with inside sidewalls with a 4 mm drill.
  • On the outside we make chamfers for the screw heads. This is quite easy to do with a simple drill with a 9 mm drill bit turned on in reverse.
  • We attach the lower horizontal to the processed sidewall - the angle can be fixed using an angle vise or ask someone to hold the parts so that they do not move. Through the hole already made in the sidewall, we drill horizontally with a 2 mm drill.

Angle vise will help fix the walls perpendicular to each other

  • We repeat these steps for the remaining horizontal lines and the second sidewall.

Such preparation must be carried out for the side surfaces of all cabinets and bedside tables, after which you can begin assembly.

Assembling a kitchen set with your own hands

To assemble the set, you need to mark the wall using a level and continue assembling the pieces, starting with the massive floor cabinets.

Assembling the main frame

From fully prepared parts we assemble the bottom line - the basis of the future headset.

Algorithm of actions:

  • We fasten the parts using ordinary 55 wood screws and a screwdriver.
  • We check the correctness of the assembly by measuring the diagonals of the resulting rectangle.
  • We close the screw caps on the visible outer sides with special plastic plugs.
  • For wall cabinets, we attach the selected fittings to the top horizontal, with which we will fix the cabinet on the wall.
  • In bedside tables with drawers, we attach guides or closers to the inner walls.
  • We install legs at the bottom of the lower tier of furniture.

Assembling a floor cabinet with legs

  • We cover the resulting frame with a back wall made of fiberboard. Fastening can be done with staples or simple galvanized nails in increments of approximately 100-150 mm. Fixation is carried out along the sidewalls and all horizontals - top, bottom and at the level of the shelves.

The main frame is ready, work remains on the facades, wall cabinets and tabletop.

Installation of kitchen fronts

In most cases, the front elements of kitchen furniture are doors made of glass, solid wood or wood panels. To attach them to the frame, quick installation hinges are used, the installation of which can only be done by a skilled craftsman. necessary equipment.

The work is done like this:

  • The place for the hinges is marked on the door. It is worth focusing on a distance of 50-100 mm from the top or bottom and 21-22 mm from the edge of the sidewall.
  • Drilled with a 35 mm Forstner cutter round hole under hinges to a depth of 10 mm. If this recess is made too shallow, then when fixing the hinge with screws, the facade may be squeezed out from the outside.
  • The hinges are installed in the recesses, aligned using a ruler, after which holes are made for the screws using a 2 mm drill.

Important! You must be careful not to drill through the door.

  • We fix the hinges to the inner surface of the facade using 4x16 zinc self-tapping screws.

  • We install the front door in place. To do this, apply a ruler to the end of the frame to obtain the necessary gap for proper opening and closing of the door.
  • We install the façade with unfolded hinges and mark the points for drilling.
  • We make holes with a 2 mm drill to a depth of no more than 10 mm.
  • We fix the hinges to the side with 4x16 zinc self-tapping screws. If necessary, adjust the hinges to ensure that the door fits evenly.

The front strips covering the drawers are much easier to install. If you bought special boxes such as metabox or tandembox, then ready-made mounting strips are always included with them. If the box is a very ordinary one, then the façade is fixed with self-tapping screws (zinc) 4x16.

Screeding the fittings and installing the countertop

To turn all cabinets and bedside tables into single design, it is necessary to combine neighboring modules with each other. For this purpose, 5 mm intersection ties are used. The adjacent walls are drilled through in two places - top and bottom. The main part of the tie is inserted into the hole, and the second - the fixing screw - is screwed into it.

Installing the countertop is not difficult at all. We simply fix it on special fasteners installed on the box of the lower cabinets. But the installation of the sink should be taken more seriously. After all, you need to not only secure the structure, but also take care of the correct sealing of the seams with silicone (however, a lot here depends on the type of model, because overhead, mortise and integrated sinks have their own nuances in installation).

As you can see, assembling the kitchen set yourself was really not too difficult. Even the most difficult part of creating a project and correct calculations can also be done by anyone who studied mathematics at school. And yet, not every one of us is ready to spend time and effort on something that can be entrusted to professionals and get a obviously high-quality result. Therefore, think carefully about whether you are ready to accomplish feats of labor in the field furniture production, or entrust this process to qualified craftsmen.

If you look at the kitchen furniture market, you can find great amount original design solutions that win the hearts of many housewives. However, the prices for such works of design are sky-high. Under such circumstances, willy-nilly, one has to think about alternative options. Some people decide to make a kitchen set with their own hands. For this purpose today there are kitchen fittings, building materials, tools - in general, everything. And, as practice shows, a homemade kitchen set is in no way inferior to a purchased one, especially in quality. And this doesn’t even take into account the price, because making a kitchen set yourself is in any case more profitable. If you decide to accomplish such a feat, you will have to work hard not only with your hands, but also with your head.

Headset manufacturing methods

There are several directions that you can follow to realize your plans. For example, to prepare everything necessary details, you can contact a specialized company that provides cutting and edging services. This is a good option, since you choose the size of the kitchen unit yourself.

Another option is to purchase ready-made parts. We can say that this is the simplest option. But in this case, your kitchen set will be standard. There is another solution, which consists in completely making a kitchen set with your own hands, starting from measurements, cutting and ending with assembly.

Simplicity and functionality of the design

If you prefer the latter option and want to do all the work yourself, then you should think about the design of the headset. As a rule, it is best to choose something simple, functional and convenient design. This category fits a classic kitchen, the cabinets of which have drawers and hinged doors. This design has many advantages. Here are some of them:

  • Modular assembly possible. In this case, each element is designed and assembled separately.
  • This set will be a suitable solution for both large and small kitchens.
  • Exists a large number of building materials that make it possible to implement such a project.
  • This furniture is durable, practical, roomy and comfortable.
  • Even a non-professional carpenter can create such a design.
  • IN classic cuisine you don't have to work with curved lines, which makes the job easier.
  • Simple mechanisms are used.
  • You can easily choose suitable fittings, fronts and countertops.

Among other things, such a kitchen set can be remodeled or modernized if necessary, since you will personally know the location of each bolt!

What to make it from?

The next preparatory stage is the selection of the appropriate material. In general, kitchen sets are made from different materials, here everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and wishes.

  • Solid wood. This material is the most expensive, but also the most durable and strong.
  • Painted MDF. Affordability. Has excellent performance qualities.
  • Laminated chipboard. One of the cheapest materials, which is in greatest demand, even among Italian craftsmen!
  • Postforming. Postforming boards are wear-resistant and practical material. What’s most interesting is that you can choose any color and surface texture.
  • Chipboard without coating. It is used for making individual elements kitchen units, for example, for the side and back wall.

When choosing a material, it is worth looking at ready-made kitchen sets in furniture stores. This will allow you to imagine what furniture will look like from this or that material.

The eyes are afraid, but the hands are busy: let’s start taking measurements

The production of a kitchen set begins with measurements. First you need to decide what type of headset it will be. In fact, kitchen furniture can be divided into two types: corner and straight. As for direct kitchens, it’s a little simpler here. Along one wall there will be several bedside tables and hanging cabinets. In some cases, the headset is placed parallel to each other on two walls. Here the measurements are quite simple. It is necessary to measure the length of the wall.

When taking measurements, it is important to take measurements with a tape measure in several places, for example, at a height of 200 mm from the floor, at chest level and under the ceiling. This is due to the fact that slight deviations may occur due to the curvature of the walls.

As practice shows, the discrepancy between such measurements can be up to three to four centimeters. Using modern Construction Materials these discrepancies can be leveled out. Start taking measurements when the old furniture is already dismantled, then you will have free access to the wall.

When taking measurements you often encounter difficulties. For example, there may be gas or water pipes on the walls - all this will need to be taken into account when installing the kitchen, cutting out the appropriate holes. The easiest way to do this is electric jigsaw. As for the sink, usually the cabinet for it comes without a back wall, since this is where the junction of the sewer and water pipes is located. The main rigidity of the cabinet is achieved thanks to the metal corners.

Among other things, it is important to take into account the presence of gas stove. Based on the measurements, you will need to make appropriate adjustments in the design configuration of the cabinets and cabinets. After all, the gas pipes will be connected to the gas stove. This is especially true when you want to make a single tabletop.

The hood is closed with a specially made cabinet. To do this, you will need to make a special cutout in the back panel of the cabinet. As for measuring the corner kitchen, the whole process follows the same principle.

Small production of large parts

Where you can feel complete freedom is when choosing the colors and design of your kitchen set. You should think over and draw up a figurative “cutting map” based on the finished drawing. In order to avoid mistakes and correctly order individual elements or cut them yourself, it is important to know about several nuances of cutting according to the drawing. The diagram below will help with this:

This is what the diagram of a standard wall cabinet will look like:

  1. Horizontal.
  2. Side wall or side.
  3. Shelf.
  4. Back wall.

One of the features of the horizontal is its size. Based on the diagram, the horizontal is located between the side walls and is connected using confirmatory screws. Accordingly, suitable holes will need to be made in the parts. Here, for example, are the holes in the side blank:

When measuring each part, it is important to take into account every nuance, otherwise the cutting process will be carried out incorrectly. In most cases, cabinets are made standard size. The width is a multiple of 100 or 50. Therefore, the width can be:

  • 250 mm.
  • 300 mm.
  • 400 mm.
  • 800 mm, etc.

It is important to take into account the thickness of the chipboard; material 16 mm thick is used for the body. Accordingly, the horizontal depth of a cabinet with a width of 800 mm inside will be 768 mm. This is due to the fact that the side wall will occupy 16 mm on both sides, it turns out like this:

768 mm + 32 mm = 800 mm

But these measurements are for when you are making a standard kitchen. Today you don’t have to adhere to standards and make cabinet sizes at your own discretion.

As an exception, mention should be made of a drying cabinet for dishes. It is manufactured according to the same standard. Although today this element can also be made to order.

If we talk about shelves, there are also some subtleties that are important to consider when measuring. The shelf can be attached in two ways: tightly or placed on special shelf holders. In the first case, the size of the shelf will be identical to the horizontal width. In the second case, the shelf size should be 3 mm smaller for free installation.

Well, the back wall also needs special attention. It is made from fiberboard. The area of ​​the rear wall should be slightly smaller than the entire body. For example, if the dimensions are 700x600 mm, then the rear wall will be 695x595 mm. Why? There are two reasons for this:

  1. If the back wall protrudes beyond the dimensions of the case, it will interfere with the tight fit of the modules.
  2. When cutting, the fiberboard “plays” on the machine, so an upward error of several millimeters may occur.

The principle of measuring tables and cabinets is practically no different. There is one nuance that concerns the fittings when they are complex or the design of the finished module is also complex. In this case, you will most likely need the help of specialists. The layout of the tables can be as follows:

We give the blanks a finished look

When all the blanks are cut, it is not yet time for assembly. It is important to carry out a series preparatory work, which includes edging. What it is? This is one of the key finishing elements of each workpiece, which reliably protects the edges from the penetration of moisture, chemicals and other liquids into the workpiece. Edgebanding also protects against chips and other mechanical damage.

Thus, each end of the kitchen set must be processed with a special edge. There are several varieties of them. But when it comes to practicality and durability, then it is best to use a plastic edge.

If this stage of work is difficult for you, then seek help from professionals!

When purchasing an edge, select a color that matches the body. Until installation, the edge should be stored in a dry place, since the back side is treated with a special glue that melts under the influence of temperature. Its gluing is done using household iron. Under no circumstances should you use a hairdryer due to unstable temperature supply. And in general, the hair dryer will not withstand the length of the period of gluing the edge.

Now we’ll take a step-by-step look at how to glue an edge using an iron with your own hands.

So, to work you will need:

  • Iron.
  • Two pieces of fabric.
  • Small file.
  • Stationery knife.
  • Edge.

  1. First of all, set the thermostat on the iron to medium mode.
  2. The workpiece can be placed horizontally on the table, end up, or rested with one end against the wall. Next, with a margin of two to three centimeters, cut off the edge and attach it to the end.
  3. Fold the first piece of fabric several times. You should heat the edge through it. This technique will prevent overheating of the edge and prevent its damage. Accordingly, the iron will be protected from accidental contact with glue on its sole.
  4. It takes a few seconds to heat up. After heating, the edge is pressed with another piece of fabric; all that remains is to wait for it to cool.
  5. As mentioned above, the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, and the edge has an average of 20–23 mm. For this reason, after gluing, protruding residues should be trimmed with a utility knife.
  6. At the final stage, file the joint between the part and the edge. Thanks to this simple operation, the angle will not be too sharp.

This is the sequence in which the edges are glued.

To work you will need:

  • hacksaw,
  • hammer,
  • electric plane,
  • jigsaw,
  • plumb line,
  • level,
  • ruler,
  • roulette,
  • clamp,
  • workbench or reliable table,
  • screwdriver,
  • screwdriver,
  • vice,
  • jig for making holes for dowels,
  • crowbar,
  • sandpaper,
  • set of needle files and files,
  • construction and stationery knife,
  • set of drills and electric drill,
  • pliers,
  • safety glasses and gloves,
  • robe.

If possible, it is best to use a laser level for measurements. It will save you from errors that are usually discovered at the end of the work!

Assembling the lower part of the kitchen unit

Before assembly begins, all parts must be sorted. Next, set aside those parts that will be needed first. If you decide to assemble the cabinet first, then you will need the following parts: side wall - 2 pieces, stand - 2 pieces, back wall - 1 piece and bottom - 1 piece. Other furniture items are also sorted using this principle.

Each part must be installed in stages. For example, mounting holes can be made in advance or directly at the time of assembly. There are no conventions or rules here. Accuracy is important in this work, otherwise it is very easy to damage the chipboard. All holes in each part must match exactly. You can start assembling with a box. It is equipped with roller guides, which are fixed on the two outer sides of the box. Then the whole box is assembled. The holes from the edge should be at a distance of 7 cm. Afterwards, holes are made for the shelf holders. Connect the two racks and the bottom, and then screw the upper ribs, onto which the tabletop will subsequently be attached.

At this stage, check the diagonal of the drawer frame. It should be equal on both sides.

Now it's time to install the back wall. As already mentioned, its size will be less than the width and height of the box, respectively, by five millimeters. To begin with, the fiberboard is nailed to the long wall. The diagonal is checked. Adjusted if necessary. It is finally fixed with several nails. The nail pitch can be 100 mm. If you want to make a stronger fixation, then use screws. If the cabinet will stand on legs, you should turn the cabinet upside down and screw them on. Place the drawer in place and the cabinet is completely ready! This system is used to assemble all other elements of the lower part of the kitchen unit.

Assemble the cabinets gradually so as not to clutter the kitchen.

At the final stage, all that remains is to mount the countertop. It can be whole or consist of several parts. In the latter case, special connections should be used to connect it.

The upper part, which consists of cabinets and pencil cases, is also assembled using this principle. The only difference is that hanging hardware will need to be screwed into the cabinets.

Installation of upper cabinets

When the entire assembly is completed, all that remains is to install everything in its place. To install the top of the kitchen unit you will need:

  • drill/hammer,
  • long level
  • roulette,
  • ruler,
  • screwdriver,
  • hammer,
  • clamp,
  • wrench.

There are several options for hanging cabinets. For example, you can mount a mounting strip on the wall. A similar one is screwed onto the cabinet. Immediately before fixing the strip, it must be checked for evenness. It will also be necessary to use intersection ties. They are used to connect modules to each other.

So, the installation process will occur in the following order:

  1. On the hinges, the hook is mounted in the middle position.
  2. In order for the hook to engage the mounting rail, the inside of the side walls of the cabinet must extend a few millimeters beyond the rear wall of the cabinet.
  3. Afterwards, measurements are taken for the holes on the wall for the hanging rail. When calculating the height, decide whether the cabinet will be butted or overlapped with the kitchen apron.
  4. The mounting rail will in all cases be below the top edge of the cabinet.
  5. In order not to miss, you can first attach the cabinet to the wall at its future location. The assistant can place a corresponding mark on the wall.
  6. Using a level on the wall, draw a straight, horizontal line that will point toward the top edge of the cabinet. It is not recommended to take measurements from the floor. There is a possibility of unevenness.
  7. At this stage, mark the drilling location.
  8. Insert a dowel into the hole.
  9. Using fasteners, secure the mounting rail.
  10. Now you can hang the cabinet.
  11. Using a level, check the evenness of the cabinets with each other, if necessary, use screws on the hinges and adjust to the level.
  12. Use a clamp to tighten all the cabinets together, starting from the corner. Insert wooden or cardboard pads between the clamp and the cabinet.
  13. Next, drill holes all the way through between the cabinets for the sectional ties.
  14. To avoid chipping, hold a piece of wood where the drill exits.
  15. Intersectional ties will tie all the cabinets together.
  16. Finally, install the fronts in place using the special screws and hinges.

Observe safety precautions while performing this work. This will prevent you from getting injured!

A simple method for making a new kitchen set

There is the simplest option for making new kitchen furniture. If you are happy with your old furniture, then you can use it as the basis for your new kitchen. It's very easy to do this:

  1. First, take your old furniture apart. Remember which parts were used in which designs.
  2. Clean the old surface sandpaper. Wash off the dust well and bring each element to life.
  3. Now take all measurements from the doors, fronts, sides and shelves. These dimensions should be transferred to new workpieces.
  4. As a result, you will be able to cut a sheet of chipboard into the necessary parts for your future kitchen.
  5. Then all that remains is to assemble all the parts according to the instructions described above, install new fittings, and you can start using the new kitchen.

To finally give your preference to this option, it is advisable to think several times: do you like the current design, is it necessary to change anything in height or width, and so on. During the transfer of dimensions, you will still have the opportunity to adjust anything.

As you can see, this is the simplest and most primitive method of making a kitchen set with your own hands. In fact, the kitchen will have the same format and size, only in the foreground and inside there will be completely new facades and fittings. This option is preferable for those who have limited resources and will not be able to buy a new headset if there is no time or desire to develop the project from scratch.

So, anyone can make a kitchen set. The most important thing is not to stop halfway. Leave your comments at the end of this article and share your personal experiences!

Video

Here is shown the process of assembling a kitchen set performed by professional craftsmen:

Photo

Properly selected kitchen furniture will provide comfort while working and will fit organically into the overall design. You can choose a ready-made kit, order production according to custom sizes or make a kitchen set with your own hands.

DIY wooden kitchen set

Advantages

Even with little carpentry experience, you can cope with the task. Making a kitchen with your own hands will allow you to:

  • Reduce the cost of the headset several times (at least 2). The difference is especially noticeable if, due to the features and layout of the kitchen standard kit furniture does not fit, needs to be made to order;
  • Create individual scheme design that best meets functional requirements;
  • Make a unique set, give it an original shape;
  • Be confident in high quality assembly at minimal cost.

Luxurious wood-effect corner kitchen with dark countertops

At the same time, you will need to spend time developing drawings and diagrams for making a kitchen set with your own hands, choosing the material, and the manufacturing and assembly process itself. It is necessary to have skills in working with tools - this guarantees quick results.

DIY kitchen set with beautiful top drawer fronts

Material selection

It’s easier to make your own kitchen from chipboard. To make the headset cheaper and retain good performance characteristics, use several types of material:

  • Suitable for the base of the structure regular slabs from chipboard. The back walls can be made of fiberboard, the side and bottom walls can be made of chipboard. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the leakage class of phenol compounds. It is better to choose E1, it is quite durable and emits less phenol-containing substances than E2, E3. A more environmentally friendly option is MDF and solid wood, but they will cost more;

    Do-it-yourself corner kitchen set made of chipboard

  • The fronts of kitchen furniture - doors and front walls of drawers - must be made of material that can withstand constant cleaning. They can be made of wood, with carved designs, or glass inserts. You can buy ready-made MDF facades. A more budget-friendly option is smooth chipboards coated with paint or self-adhesive film. Their service life is much shorter, unlike wooden furniture, which can be stored for more than one generation;

    Kitchen made of MDF, painted green

  • The tabletop must withstand moisture, temperature, and be scratch-resistant. Covered with film or varnished chipboard will quickly lose its appearance. Laminated or postformed would be more suitable. Last option– a slab covered with a layer of plastic is resistant to impact, offers many color and pattern options, and can imitate the texture of stone or wood.

    Ceramic tiles as a worktop for the work area

Important! If a stove is built into the kitchen unit, wood for the structure is not suitable for fire safety.

An expensive option is a countertop made of natural or artificial stone. At home, it is difficult to make a cutout to install a sink and appliances. You can do the work in a specialized company, but you will have to spend money.

This is what an artificial stone countertop looks like: work area kitchens

You should not make a modular kitchen out of solid wood. The material is subject to shrinkage, shrinkage will lead to an uneven overall surface.

DIY kitchen with plasterboard niches

Required Tools

To make cabinets and install kitchen units with your own hands, you need:

  • Roulette, ruler;
  • Jigsaw;
  • Hacksaw, pliers, hammer;
  • File, sandpaper;
  • Stationery knife;
  • Electric drill and drills;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Electric planer;
  • Level (for greater accuracy - laser), plumb line;
  • Workbench, vice;
  • Clamp.

Necessary tools for DIY kitchen assembly

The fasteners you will need are:

  • Confirm screws;
  • Guides for drawers, it is better to choose ball ones;
  • Furniture ties for connecting sections;
  • Crocodile hinges for attaching doors to cabinets;
  • Dowels for installing tabletops.

Assembling the bottom drawers of a modular kitchen set

Additionally, you need to select handles for drawers and doors.

Measuring features

First you need to decide what the design will be: angular, as in the photo, or straight. The first allows you to save space. For a beginner, it is easier to perform a direct type modular design. It is easier to move it away from the wall if necessary, and it is easier to replace or repair a separate cabinet. To do corner kitchen with your own hands, you can use photos of drawings with dimensions:

Project of the lower cabinets of the future kitchen set

Attention! When making a kitchen with your own hands, drawings and diagrams must be completed after purchasing built-in appliances and a sink in order to take into account their dimensions. If you purchase ready-made facades, you should focus on their parameters.

Making a kitchen from plywood with your own hands

When determining the design scheme, you need to consider:

  • Availability of gas sewer pipes and water supply - during installation you will have to make recesses for them, and the sink cabinet is made without a back wall. For stability, you need to secure the walls of the structure with metal corners;
  • Size of the hood – a special cabinet can be made for it;
  • Dimensions of the dryer in the cupboard. It is better to purchase it in advance and adjust the dimensions of the pendant module to it.

Connecting water filters and other communications

The corner kitchen is designed taking into account the same features. For hanging cabinets you need to determine a convenient height. You can use the drawings and diagrams in the photo to make your own kitchen:

Calculation of a typical cabinet for a modular kitchen

Another drawing that can be used in practice

DIY kitchen assembly process

Main details

After determining the number of cabinets and their sizes, you can proceed to the manufacture of parts.

Marking places for fasteners

A standard cabinet consists of 4 parts:

  1. Horizontal (2 pcs). It is located between the side walls, to which it is attached with confirmatory screws. Its width should be less than the finished cabinet by two thicknesses of the side walls. If the chipboard is 1.6 cm, and the cabinet width is 80 cm, then the horizontal size is: 80-(1.6*2) = 76.8 cm;
  2. Side wall (2 pcs);
  3. Shelf (usually 1 piece). It can be screwed to the walls, then its width should be equal to the horizontal. If you make it removable and lay it on shelf holders, for convenient installation you need to make it 3 mm narrower than horizontal;
  4. Back wall (1 piece). To make the structure lighter, it is made of fiberboard. The height and width should be 5 mm less than the body parameters. This eliminates the wall from bulging with small cutting errors.

Cut material for future headset

The parts are cut out with a jigsaw after careful measurements. You can order a cut when purchasing materials. It will be done for an additional fee. The furniture factory already has blanks that are used for sawing. As a standard, their sizes are multiples of 15, which must be taken into account when drawing up your own drawings and diagrams for a kitchen set. Blanks can be made to individual sizes, but it costs more. Finished parts for each module must be numbered to avoid confusion during subsequent work.

Lower kitchen cabinets assembled

Workpiece processing

When moisture gets inside the cut, the product swells and becomes deformed. Gluing the edges to the edges of all parts will help avoid this. It should match the blanks in color. On one side it is treated with glue, which melts when exposed to high temperatures.

Corners of drawer joints treated with silicone

Edging is done using an iron and thick fabric:

  • The iron heats up to medium temperature;
  • The part must be placed with the cut facing up, measure and cut off the edge (with a margin of 2-3 cm), and attach it to the cut;
  • Heat the edge with an iron, pressing it firmly against the part. The movements are smooth, do not stay in one place for a long time, so as not to burn the tape. The glue will melt a little. Without waiting for it to cool, press it with a cloth folded in several layers;
  • After cooling, trim the protruding edges of the edge with a stationery knife without scratching the surface of the workpiece;
  • Carefully file the cut edges so that there are no sharp or clinging areas.

Do-it-yourself edge trimming

For convenience, build a stand for workpieces from a board and two bars that are attached to it. You can place the part between them, freeing up your hands for edging.

Varnishing the facade of a kitchen unit

Assembly and installation

Before starting work, you need to sort the parts for each cabinet to ensure completeness and save time during assembly.

Base cabinets

Assembling lower cabinets for the kitchen

All parts are connected in the following order:

  1. Collect drawer(one or more, depending on the model). Attach guides for the retractable mechanism to the outer sides, parts of which are attached to the side walls of the cabinet;
  2. Twist the horizontal and side parts of the box, secure the shelf or holders;
  3. Check the diagonal - place the body face down on the floor, use a tape measure to measure the distance from opposite corners, it should be the same;
  4. After nailing the back wall on one side first, check the diagonal again. Secure along all edges, the distance between nails or screws is 10 cm;
  5. Screw the legs by turning the cabinet upside down.

Assembling lower cabinets for the future kitchen

Install on Right place, then screw the doors. After installing the cabinets, you can fasten the tabletop.

Upper parts

The principle of cabinet assembly is similar to the lower cabinets. You can secure the upper modules using mounting strips: one is screwed to the wall, the other to the cabinet. First you need to determine at what level the mounted modules will be located. To keep the plank level, you need to use a level to mark the line for its future location. You cannot measure the distance from the floor to the plank with a tape measure to avoid unevenness and distortions.

Attaching upper cabinets to a mounting plate

After securing the rail to the surfaces, you can hang the cabinets. Check their location with a level and tighten the modules together using a clamp. Place wooden spacers between the tool and the cabinet walls to avoid damaging the surface.

Upper kitchen cabinets before and after painting

Intersectional ties will help secure the cabinets together, for which you need to drill holes inside the cabinets. To prevent chipping, hold wooden block at the point where the drill exits. The work is completed by installing the doors on the upper cabinets.

The final stage of assembling a kitchen with carved facades with your own hands

Modeled after an old kitchen

If the design of the installed set is suitable in shape and size, but you need to replace it, you can use it as a basis for making a new kitchen with your own hands instead of drawings:

  • Disassemble the old modules into parts, number the parts of each so as not to confuse them later;
  • Clean them from dust;
  • Take measurements according to which the parts of the new headset will be manufactured;
  • Cut out pieces of the desired shape from a sheet of chipboard;
  • Connect, secure new fittings, and install in place.

DIY kitchen furniture decor

During the work, you can adjust the sizes of some parts if they are not satisfactory. You can rely on photos of drawings and dimensions to make a kitchen with your own hands.

Having succumbed to the temptation to purchase a ready-made kitchen set, sometimes instead of positive emotions we experience bitter disappointment. New furniture does not always fit in size or layout and, as a result, becomes inconvenient to use. Making a kitchen with your own hands, taking into account the size of the area and individual preferences, will not only save you from such troubles, but, among other things, will even help you save money.

Having taken up the task of updating the interior, first of all it is necessary to make a project for the future kitchen, including it in the drawings detailed plan premises.

It must accurately reflect:

  • room height;
  • width of walls;
  • dimensions of window and door openings;
  • communications diagram: wiring, gas, water, heating;
  • ventilation system.

DIY kitchen making and drawings

How you plan to arrange your kitchen furniture determines its functionality and comfort during cooking. The most common forms according to the method of arranging headsets are:

  • linear;
  • L-shaped;
  • U-shaped;
  • island

In small kitchens, in order to save space, linear and L-shaped shapes are more appropriate. IN spacious rooms you can afford U-shaped and island furniture.

Regardless of which shape is more suitable for your room, do not forget to put it on the drawings five main kitchen areas:

  1. Working surface.
  2. Washing.
  3. Hob.
  4. Food storage area.
  5. Storage area for dishes and cutlery.

A reasonable solution for small areas would be to combine several zones. For example, plan a countertop that will serve as a sink and work surface. The storage area for kitchen utensils also goes well with the work area.

When making drawings, try to designate the furniture so as not to violate the classic working triangle, the vertices of which form the sink, stove and refrigerator.

Kitchen design in pro100 (video)

DIY calculations for the kitchen

We have already agreed that communication diagrams are included on the drawings. Based on this, a place for washing is chosen near the outlet of the water supply and sewerage pipes. The maximum distance from the gas stove to the gas pipe should not exceed more than 2 m. It is not advisable to place the refrigerator close to the hob.

Making furniture yourself means being able to take into account such individual parameters as the height of the owner, whether she is right-handed or left-handed.

Such seemingly small things determine:

  • height of horizontal surfaces;
  • which side of the sink should the countertop be placed on?
  • how to attach fittings to furniture;
  • where to install sockets;
  • how to arrange lamps and switches.

All details and elements of the future headset should be carefully calculated and double-checked. Not only each cabinet, but also each drawer and shelf are counted separately. In the drawings, the cabinets are “disassembled” into boards on which their dimensions are indicated.

After all the parameters and calculations have been transferred to the drawings, you can begin making templates for your furniture.

Special computer programs will help you make calculations and select the optimal dimensions of individual elements of the headset. With their help, you can design furniture and create a kitchen design to suit every taste.

Modeling kitchen furniture in 3ds Max (video)

Tools for assembling furniture and necessary materials

To make furniture yourself, you will need a certain set of tools.

Check your availability:

  • drills;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer and nails;
  • pliers;
  • jigsaw;
  • hacksaws;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • square;
  • assembly knife;
  • sandpaper.

For beginners in carpentry, experienced craftsmen advise purchasing or ordering ready-made facades for furniture, and then making drawings for furniture based on them. If this is your first assembly, you will have to put a lot of effort into making neat doors and drawer ends, and the result does not always correspond to the labor invested.

So, the kit of materials for assembling a kitchen includes:

  • cabinet doors;
  • laminated MDF for walls 16 mm thick;
  • laminated fiberboard for drawer walls – 5 mm;
  • Chipboard for table top 32 mm thick;
  • fittings - door handles, hinges, furniture edges, euroscrews, ball guides;
  • washing;
  • drying;
  • grids;
  • shelf supports;
  • Euro ties.

Cutting the material according to the template dimensions

If you decide to make the furniture yourself from start to finish, production will begin with cutting MDF sheets according to the drawings. We do this carefully, since the work requires precision. Standard MDF panels have dimensions of 2440x1830, and cutting them for the first time can be quite difficult for an inexperienced owner. Therefore, it makes sense to order cutting of the slab at the enterprise or directly in the store.

For example, let's look at how to calculate a template for the parts of a standard kitchen cabinet. Conditional size products:

  • width – 300 mm;
  • height – 800 mm;
  • depth – 550 mm.


The doors for the cabinet are made smaller in width and height so that when opening it does not touch standing nearby module and did not scratch the floor covering:

  1. The width of the facade will be 296 mm - 4 mm is enough to ensure unhindered door movement.
  2. The height of the facade will be 700 mm, so the door will be located at a distance of about 100 mm above the floor level.

In addition to the façade, the main details include:

  • side walls – 2 pcs.;
  • lid.

The back wall is made of fiberboard, so it is not included in the main parts.

We subtract the thickness (32 mm) of the side walls, and we get the dimensions of the side walls - 800x550 mm, bottom and lid - 284x550 mm. In the same way, calculations are made for all other dimensions of the furniture set.

Cutting materials is an extremely crucial moment. It must be done as accurately as possible, otherwise a few extra millimeters will ruin the entire geometry of the kitchen.

Rules for cutting chipboard (video)

Assembly and installation of kitchen furniture

The cut parts must be prepared for assembly, after which you can begin twisting the cabinet. Each individual module set is marked and placed next to the place where it is planned to be installed. This way you will protect yourself from the parts getting mixed up and mixed up.

The furniture assembly procedure is as follows:

  1. Sections of parts should first be edged. First they are sanded with sandpaper. Then the edge tape is applied to the cut area and glued with a hot iron. The edges are cut with a mounting knife when the edge has cooled. This technique will not only provide the furniture with a more attractive appearance, but will also keep it from bloating and swelling in conditions of high humidity in the kitchen. Therefore, it is recommended to trim not only the visible parts of the headset, but also those that are hidden from prying eyes.
  2. The next stage is marking and drilling holes for fasteners and shelf holders. Do not rush to work with a drill, otherwise you can make a through hole with an inexperienced hand.
  3. The cabinet is assembled according to the principle of a box. Vertical side walls are attached to the horizontal lower surfaces. Lastly, screw on the lid.
  4. Roller guides for sliding drawers are attached to the building level. They must be located strictly horizontally parallel to each other, otherwise the drawers will not fit into their designated places.
  5. The legs are attached to an inverted, fully assembled cabinet.
  6. The facades are installed last. To do this, you need to lay the box flat on the back wall. The door is installed in the open position. It is more convenient to do this together. The part is fixed at 95 degrees and places for fastening are marked. Then the facades are hinged to the side walls with self-tapping screws.
  7. The final touch is attaching handles and other fittings. The assembled cabinet is immediately filled with drawers, shelves, and grids.

Installation of furniture in the kitchen

Everything before installing the kitchen yourself renovation work indoors must be completed. The set is installed on flat floors against dry walls:

  1. The installation of the headset begins with the outermost module. The bottom row of cabinets is set to the building level. The horizontal line must be perfectly level, otherwise difficulties will arise when laying the tabletop. The cabinets are connected to each other with Euro ties.
  2. The tabletop is secured to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. Markings are applied on top with a pencil for the future sink and stove. The holes for them are cut with a jigsaw.
  3. Having completed the installation of the bottom row of furniture, proceed to the installation of the top one. The standard distance from the countertop or cabinet lid to the bottom edge of the upper wall modules is 650 mm. To this value add the height of the cabinet minus 6-7 mm for fastening. The resulting figure is the mounting height of the mounting rail.
  4. A universal canopy is attached to the rear wall. The finished cabinets are hung on the wall, aligned vertically and horizontally.
  5. If you plan to install a hood with your headset, it is attached last.

Kitchen assembly instructions (video)

Conclusion

Even a novice master can successfully make a kitchen with his own hands. The main thing is to execute accurate calculations, compose detailed drawing and boldly begin to implement your plans. Made with your own hands, with soul, such furniture will serve your family faithfully for many years. It’s not for nothing that they say that if you want to do something well, do it yourself!