Making a log house with your own hands. Mini-house - a compact log house from a member of FORUMHOUSE. The process of assembling a log house using the lower bowl method

Construction wooden houses and the baths are gaining unprecedented popularity. This is explained by the environmental friendliness and safety of wood, as well as the availability of assembly of wooden structures.

Modern felling of log houses is represented by both the simplest and technologically complex methods, which provide maximum protection of the finished log house from the adverse effects of the environment.

The final stage wood construction is the assembly of the log house. Often for the construction wall structures rounded logs are used, which are securely connected to each other using special tenons and grooves.

Overview of log cutting methods

To understand how to properly cut a log house, you need to choose the most suitable method of joining lumber.

The most popular logging technologies are Russian, Canadian, Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian. For each of them can be used various options log connections.

Canadian

Chopping in Canadian bowl is performed on round logs and has a number of advantages:

Increases the service life of lumber.
Provides additional protection of the log house from moisture penetration at the internal corners.
Reduces heat losses.
Saves optimal microclimate indoors.
Simplifies in the channel provided for it.

Russian

Russian cutting is one of the most popular and popular types construction of wooden houses. Often, it is performed using a round chopped log.

This material is resistant to high moisture, mold and fungal infection. The fastening of logs using Russian technology is carried out in 2 ways - in the paw and in the head.

Finnish

For the construction of a wooden structure according to Finnish technology It is recommended to use round timber and timber prepared from coniferous trees. Preparation of material using Finnish technology is similar to the previous version. The insulating material is placed tightly and deeply between the logs, so it is completely invisible from the outside.

Norwegian

Norwegian technology involves the use of a log carriage with an oval cross-section. Otherwise, this technology is carried out similarly to the Canadian version. However, with this option for preparing logs, the walls are flat, which effectively saves space, especially in small buildings.

Swedish

Visually, Swedish technology differs from all others in the appearance of the resulting ends. In this case, the crowns are hewn in the form of hexagons. The bowl is also shaped like a ½ hexagon, making it easier to place crowns. Swedish felling is characterized by the complexity of installation and high financial investments.

How to properly cut any type of log house in order to get a practical and durable structure? This process involves sawing or cutting special corner connections and longitudinal grooves for reliable installation of crowns. This can be done in several ways.

Method of cutting "in the cloud"

Felling in oblo is the simplest and most affordable option construction various types log cabins, which is done manually. The preparation process itself building material does not require large time and labor costs.

This method involves removing logs from the corners of the log house at a distance of up to 25 cm, which leads to a reduction in the size of the finished structure on all sides. For this reason, it has another name - cutting with residue.

This construction option provides additional strength to the structure, and protruding elements protect the corners of the frame from damage and destruction.

The bowl is made in the shape of a semicircle with a smooth surface and is not equipped with locks. To prevent possible rotting of logs, it is recommended to carry out timely inspections outside and inside.

“Bowl” cutting method

Cutting into a bowl is an intermediate option between okhlop and oblo, it is performed in half a tree, while the chopped bowl can be positioned up or down.

Arranging the logs with the bowls facing down is not only convenient, but also practical. This will prevent accumulation excess moisture in cups, will protect the joints from rotting. Preparing logs with the bowls down is often called “slamming” due to the fact that the upper element of the structure is placed with the bowl on the lower one, as if slamming it down.

This option for preparing logs eliminates the formation of unwanted voids in the joints between the crowns.

Many novice craftsmen may wonder how to cut a log house into a bowl or thicket correctly? All work is carried out in the following order:

The future log house is marked and the logs are prepared in accordance with the required parameters. Each whip is numbered.
The size of the bowl should be equal to ½ the thickness of the log. Stepping back 22 cm from the edge, markings are applied with a pencil or nail.
Processing is performed with a chainsaw or cleaver to obtain even and smooth edges of the bowl.
A tenon for the bowl is made in the lower log, and a groove is made in the upper log. During the assembly process separate elements insulation is installed. The crowns are assembled with the bowl facing down. This is required in order to prevent moisture from entering the joints when fully loaded.

The “paw” cutting method

Foot-cutting involves laying logs in such a way that they do not extend beyond external corners. This method requires serious preparation and adherence to the technology of laying individual elements.

Reliable connection of the crowns is ensured by the presence of double locks in the corners of the building. Inaccuracies in the installation of logs can lead to the appearance of cracks and gaps in the finished structure, which in the future is fraught with large heat losses.

To improve thermal conductivity in the corners of the log house when using this processing method, it is recommended to carry out additional insulation and external cladding.

The “paw-on” processing method ensures an increase in the usable area of the premises while maintaining the length of the log used.

Work on the construction of a log house using this method is carried out in the following order: first the lower crowns are laid, then the wooden base for the floor, then the flooring is laid and the construction of wall structures continues.

You can cut a log house yourself by preparing high-quality lumber and choosing the most suitable technology styling The finished log house is durable, practical and easy to maintain, so it can last for decades.

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about ideal conditions blanks, which we will consider below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperature, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include round form and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for a bathhouse. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Timber processing

Step 1. After it was delivered to you consumables(or you cut it down and delivered it yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparing logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

Let us immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

strip foundation;
columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Pouring the foundation

Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Columnar foundation

If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:

brick;
from asbestos pipes.

Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude above the surface by at least 30 cm.

Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill in concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Stage 4. Waterproofing the base

Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparing tools

To work you will need the following equipment:

The last instrument – the “line” – will be given Special attention. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. Construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with decorative crown(in other words, from the first). The logs that will serve as the frame crown should be edged to ensure a tight fit to the foundation.

Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections during the construction of log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After checking the dimensions again, the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the top log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using the “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.

Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of fabric on the lower crown, and seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:

square dowels;
round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion, after shrinkage is completed, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. Having raised the walls to the desired height, lay them on top ceiling beams and rafters. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.

Video - Roof made of aspen shingles

Stage 7. Doors and window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

hammer;
caulk (made of wood or metal).

Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.

Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video – Caulk of a log house

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.

Step 1. Lay on wall trim wooden beams(we already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Nail to rafter legs solid plank flooring (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.

An example of a log house with a shingle roof

Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, joints in the lower rim are not allowed.
When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can assemble the logs before drying by placing a sealant between them.
It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to buildDIY log house.

Nowadays, more and more people are interested in wooden buildings. Environmentally friendly, with a good and very original appearance, they allow owners to feel themselves in the atmosphere of the distant past, transporting them to the era of their ancestors. Today have chopped wooden hut or a bathhouse on the site means to have good taste and take care of your health. Our ancestors knew how to cut a log into a bowl and this method became most widespread. The technique of this method is quite simple, but in order to master it, you need to know some carpentry techniques.

This method of construction wooden buildings typical for rural areas of Russia, including those places where the climate is very harsh - Siberia and the Russian North. The method got its name due to the semicircular notch that the master made in the lower log - the so-called “bowl”. This recess served to place the top log perpendicularly into it. This joining method made it possible to avoid significant gaps and ensured a very tight fit of the logs to each other. Speaking about what a log house in a bowl is, one cannot fail to mention its varieties. If the bowl is made in the lower log, then this is a sure sign of the so-called “Russian felling” (or the so-called “in the oblo”). In the case when the master cuts out a bowl in a log that will be on top, “Siberian felling” takes place (another name is “in the hole”). It is believed that in the second case the building is more protected from adverse weather factors.

So, the advantages of a log house in a bowl can be called:

fairly robust construction;
not blown corners of the building;
aesthetic appearance.

But the frame in the bowl has some disadvantages:

problems with the cladding of the log house;
due to the protrusion of the corners, reduced effective area premises;
high consumption of wood.

What does a carpenter need?

So, you are going to make a frame into a bowl with your own hands. To do this you will need the following:

saw (electric or gasoline);
axe;
carpenter's line (compass);
chisels.

You will also need material for sealing cracks (tow, jute, etc.)

What kind of wood to cut from?

Carpentry experts prefer wood such as pine. Even though she's not the best best material in processing (pine wood is hard and prone to chipping when working with it), it is pine logs that have best characteristics on resistance to fungal diseases of wood and bark beetles. In addition, the tree trunks are smooth and practically free of such defects as knots. Pine buildings are durable. For construction, you need to choose logs with a thickness of 20 to 25 cm. The material should be harvested in winter, since during the process of drying the wood, the trunks will be less susceptible to deformation and cracking.

Working method

A process such as cutting a log house into a bowl must be preceded by preparing the foundation and carrying out work on its waterproofing. The key to success here will undoubtedly be a strict horizontal surface.

Let's start creating the bottom layer (the trim crown). To do this, we take two trunks that will be used to construct the long walls of the log house, lay them parallel, then two trunks are placed perpendicularly at their ends. Next, using a carpenter's compass, the recesses for the logs are marked. When doing this, special care and precision must be observed, since only correctly fitted logs will ensure proper quality of work. When marking the bowl, it is necessary to ensure that the upper trunk is immersed exactly halfway into the lower one.

Next, using tools, we cut out our bowls. After this, we first install the upper logs in them. In order for the logs to fit well vertically to each other in the lower log, in the place where its upper edge is located, it is necessary to cut out a groove. It is carried out along the entire length and its thickness can range from 12 to 20 cm, depending on the size of the trunk. Before installing the log, insulation is placed in the groove.

To ensure the evenness of the entire structure, holes are drilled in the bowls for one and a half logs into which dowels - special spikes - are inserted. The process of assembling a log house is accompanied by tapping logs using a block.

And further…

When assembling a log house, it is necessary to place thin annual rings on the outside, and thick ones on the inside. The building can be assembled in parts, tied together on the ground, and then stacked on top of each other. Pile foundation - best option for cutting into a bowl. If you lack experience, it is better to start building small structures - gazebos or bathhouses.

Wooden houses have been built in Rus' since ancient times and have not lost their popularity in our time. This is due unique properties wood, natural, environmentally friendly natural material. Almost all Russian masterpieces wooden architecture built by our ancestors without single nail chop into a bowl. The name of the method is due to the type of connection of logs into a single structure. A semicircular recess in the form of a bowl was cut out in the lower log, into which the upper log was tightly placed at a right angle. The result was a durable, beautiful, warm structure that was not drafty in the corners.

Varieties of the method

The assembly of the log house can be done in the following ways:

Cutting in oblo, called Russian, in which the cutting of the bowl occurs in the lower crown. The classic bowl is cut out smooth, but to prevent possible displacements, a protruding spike (fat tail) can be left in the bowl. It is in this way that the architectural monuments made of wood that have survived to this day were erected;
Cutting in the okhlop or Siberian cutting, in which the bowl is cut from the bottom of the upper rims. A bunch of construction companies and “carpenters” in every possible way promote the advantages of this method, arguing that moisture will accumulate in the bowls of the log house, causing the wood to rot. And then why did our wise great-grandfathers rarely use it? The casket opens simply. It is enough to consider how logs work in a finished log house. As the volume decreases, the inner layers of wood dry more slowly than the upper layers, so cracks form in the outer layer. When cutting a longitudinal groove in logs, cracks appear first of all in this weakened section. The groove expands, trying to turn around. The lower position of the bowl prevents this, preventing the groove from opening with the appearance of additional gaps, which does not happen when the bowl rests on top of the log. And the accumulation of moisture in the joint is generally an idle fantasy; with high-quality caulking, moisture will never reach the wood, it will only get wet upper layer moss or jute, which will gradually dry under natural conditions. Modern “specialists” advertise Siberian cutting because it is easier to manufacture. The cuttings can be done below on a specially equipped area, but in the first method this will have to be done at the top of the log house.

Advantages of the technology of cutting a log house into a bowl with your own hands

strength of nodal fastening in the structure;
excellent thermal insulation of the house due to the non-ventilated corners;
the traditional grandeur of the Russian tower;
eco-friendly cleanliness wooden building;
great appearance natural wood does not require additional finishing;
increased structural stability allows construction of several floors.

When comparing that better log house in a paw or in a bowl, it is preferable to choose the second method of construction, this is confirmed by many years of experience in our national wooden architecture.

Flaws

There cannot be ideal designs; the disadvantages of the design under consideration include the following points:

sufficient complexity of execution without experience in carrying out similar work;
difficulty of the device exterior finishing due to protruding corners;
the presence of corner protrusions leads to a decrease in the useful length of the crowns and, accordingly, to an increase in the cost of the log house by up to 10%. This argument is cited as the main one in the debate on the topic of chopping into the paw or into the bowl, which is better. But a felled log house needs enhanced thermal insulation of the corners, which practically reduces real savings to zero. And insufficient rigidity leads to the fragility of the building due to variability geometric dimensions with the appearance of cracks.

Wood selection

Preference is given coniferous species. Most often, pine is used, which is distinguished by a smooth trunk of uniform thickness along almost the entire length, a minimum number of knots, and resistance to decay. The best wood is considered to be from the northern zones, cut down in winter period. In winter, the movement of sap in the tree is minimal, which leads to less cracking of winter preparations when dried. The blanks must have the same dimensions, recommended diameter ≥ 22 cm. The larger the better, this will reduce the number of node connections and increase the thermal performance inside the building.

The material is sanded and trimmed with inside up to the thickness of the upper section. For the stability of the log house to weather conditions the workpieces must be oriented according to tree rings. The part with thin rings is located outward, and the part with thicker rings is located inward. The prepared workpieces are dried in a ventilated stack, providing shelter from precipitation. Minimum time drying ≥ 6 months.

Technology for assembling a log house by cutting into the lower thicket

The structure is assembled on a ready-made foundation; due to the light weight of the structure, columnar, shallow-depth strip and slab foundations, as well as pile-screw. The top surface is covered horizontal waterproofing made of waterproofing laid in two layers with a sticker using bitumen-containing mastics.

Work order:

Sections of thick larch boards are laid on the waterproofing. It is recommended to antisepticize these backing boards by immersion in antiseptic solutions. Next, careful control of the horizontalness of the top of the boards is carried out using a laser level.
Installation of one log on boards along the long sides of the future building. The distance between them must be strictly the same at both ends of the elements and equal to the length of the transverse log, taking into account the corner protrusions. Horizontal control is carried out with a laser building level, and length with a tape measure with a metal blade.
After the necessary checks have been carried out, two cross logs are placed on the edges of the laid logs.
The marking of a log when cutting into a bowl is done with a carpenter's mark, consisting of a bar with a handle and two pointed rods, the distance between which can vary. The tool allows you to draw two parallel lines at once when marking. The placement of the outer edge is planned with a distance of 30...50 cm from the end of the log (the upper trunk should protrude from the lower one by half of its cross-section). The depth of the thicket is ½ the thickness of the upper trunk.
Cutting out the bowl. The recess is cut out with a gas or electric saw and chopped to required sizes using a rounded forged ax and a chisel. The bottom of the recess must be perfectly smooth, all irregularities must be sanded to ensure a tight fit of the upper element without the formation of cracks.
After checking the tightness of the mating, the upper workpiece is removed, and a longitudinal groove is cut out at the top in the lower element, it is made semicircular and of small depth. The work is performed with a forged rounded ax.
Lower crown collected. The elements of the second crown are prepared in a similar way. The logs are laid with their butts in different directions, maintaining the horizontal position of each row.
Installation of the next crown. Insulation from jute or linen tapes is placed in the longitudinal groove; previously, moss was mainly used; to ensure a tight fit of the upper logs, tapping with a wooden block is performed. All crowns are laid with careful control of the horizontality and verticality of the installed elements.
To securely fix the crowns, they are connected to each other in a checkerboard pattern. wooden dowels from solid tree species. The pins are tightly immersed in advance drilled holes using a sledgehammer. The spacing is 1.5...2 m. Reliable results are achieved by installing “Strength” spring units instead of dowels.
After completing the assembly, all seams are caulked; there should be no hanging ends of the insulation strips. After 6 months the procedure must be repeated.
After all work is completed, everything wooden crafts antiseptic and treated with fire retardants twice.

A properly constructed log house will ensure durability, warmth and comfortable living in your future home.

Wooden materials retain heat well, are environmentally friendly, and also have an attractive appearance. You can prepare a log house with your own hands.

Materials and tools for performing work

To prepare a log house, you need to take the following tools:

The axe, it should not be too heavy.
Chisel.
Tape measure, level and marker.
Plumb and bracket.
Hacksaw, shovel.
Rope and a marking tool in the form of a compass.
Chainsaw.

Let's look at what different expressions mean in a carpenter's language:

A log house is a basic building without a roof or floor; its height is determined by the number of crowns.
The crown is the place in the log house that has a square or rectangular shape. In the corner part they are fastened with locks. The crown comes in three types and is placed according to its name:

window sill type;
window type;
above-window type;

The frame crown is the first element of the frame, with the help of which bottom harness protected from rotting.
The bottom frame is the second element of the frame; it is considered the main part where the logs are placed.
The joists support the floor and secure the frame at the bottom.
The crown of the closing type is the first element above the window.
The frame in the upper part serves as a support for the roof; it includes rafters and supports.
The butt is a section of the trunk that is located at the bottom of the tree. And on opposite side the top is located.

Logs can be processed underneath to make the work being done safer. The construction of a log house takes place in three stages: the main part is completed, and then the middle and upper. Along the entire length, the log may have different circumferences, so you need to change the top and butt. If you make an edging, the crowns will fit together well and will not form large gaps. The deck in the extreme part is trimmed on both sides to create a flat surface.

Blank material for log house

First, timber is harvested, having previously calculated the required number and size of logs; these indicators depend on the width, height and length of the building. Therefore, before starting this work, it is necessary to make a drawing of the building with clear dimensions and calculate the amount of material. Preparation of a log house depends on the layout, type of fastening of logs, and their processing.

When completing a project, they note what shape the building will be, that is, it can be standard, which consists of four walls. Or maybe have unusual look, and include a larger number of load-bearing elements.

Logs are fastened in two ways: in a “bowl” and in a “paw”; these types of groove construction differ. With the first option, strong wind does not affect the corner parts of the building, but more material is wasted when bandaging.

With the second option, less material will be needed, but the corner parts will be affected strong wind, and also making grooves is more difficult.

The building can be made of cylindrical and profiled logs. In the first case, the log is processed until it takes the shape of a cylinder; special machines are used for this. This material has a number of advantages:

The profiled timber has a rectangular or square shape when cut, and its processing is also carried out using a machine. At the final stage, the side parts of the log will be flat, and there will be special grooves for fastening at the top and bottom. This material also has its advantages:

Thanks to the grooves, the building will be more stable, and the work will be completed faster compared to the first option.
Thanks to the flat surface of the side joints, water from precipitation does not penetrate into the horizontal seams, and the material does not rot.
After time, the logs do not move, since cuts are made during manufacturing. This material has minimal shrinkage.
A profiled log is lightweight and therefore does not require the construction of an expensive and massive foundation.

For the manufacture of logs they use coniferous species tree. After harvesting the logs, the bark is removed and dried.

Initial work

According to the drawing, markings are made on the territory, stakes are installed and the rope is pulled. Then the foundation is made in the form of linings, with dimensions of 1 meter in length and 1/3 meter in circumference. They are laid near the corner part of the proposed building using a level, and the load will be uniform.

Then they build an edging, choose where it will be located, and lay it with this part up, fixing the log with brackets. Using a plumb line, draw lines vertically; they will be the outermost parts of the edge. They stretch the rope along the edges of the log, make cuts, and cut off the material until the edge is completely obtained. The same work is carried out on the opposite part of the log.

Laying the log house

After the foundation is poured, it must be left to dry completely.

Waterproofing material is laid on the completed foundation; roofing felt can be used. A board with a thickness of 5 centimeters is installed on top, on which the crown will be located. To keep the building warm, tow is laid on top.

Then the initial crown is laid, in which the logs should have a larger circumference compared to the rest of the material. Before starting this work, notches of about 15 centimeters along the entire length are made on the log. In this case, the material will adhere tightly to the board.

After this, the remaining crowns are laid to the required height. Tow is placed between the elements of the crown, the logs are tied in the corner part, and spikes are also used for a tight connection; they are placed at a distance of up to 1 meter. In this case, the building will have good stability.

How to install the first element of a window sill type crown

First, mark the doorway, then install the logs using a dowel. Using plumb lines, the vertical position of the corner parts is checked, and the final window sill beam is installed on two dowels.

Then the crowns of the window element are laid, keeping the opening height to 130 centimeters. After this, the strapping is performed in the upper part.

After this, the elements for the rafters are prepared, for this purpose the logs are cut off, and about two edges are made on each of them. The elements are cut into the deck, and recesses for the rafter legs are made with a chisel.

When making rafters, there should not be many small knots in the log. Near the base of the rafters, a tenon is made by sawing, and paired installation is carried out.

How to install openings for doors and windows?

Openings can be made in two ways: after the work is completed, and during construction.

In the first option, the installation of openings is carried out after completion of all work; for this, gaps are made in the crowns at the intended location. After installation is completed, these openings are cut out using a chainsaw.

In the second option, the openings are made during the process of laying logs; special bars and grooves are used for this; this method takes a lot of time and money.

Metal materials cannot be used as casing, as heat will escape through them. To install the socket on the end parts of the logs, a vertical tenon 50*50 is made on each side. A pigtail is installed on it, and there is a groove on its reverse side.

Roof construction

First, the beams are laid on the walls.

The beams are secured and the rafter legs are installed at a distance of 1 meter. A corner cut is made near the ridge for a tight connection.

Boards are nailed to the feet of the rafters or lathing is made.

Then lay the main roof covering according to the instructions for the selected material.

The ridge is covered with galvanization to protect it from strong winds and precipitation.

After completing all the work, I proceed to interior decoration, namely the construction of floors.

Types of pillars and their installation

The pillars are:

corner;
window;
intermediate;
door

They are arranged according to their names, the thickest elements are the corner ones, the thin ones are the intermediate ones.

Corner posts are placed in a pocket, the depth of which is up to 7 centimeters. The remaining pillars are installed at a depth of about 3 centimeters. Up to three edges are made on the log house; after shrinkage occurs, they begin laying the remaining pillars.

At the end, rafters are installed; for this purpose, walkways, jibs and nails are used as fastenings. The elements are laid on the walkways, top part fastened with nails. Spikes rafter elements placed in pockets, secured with jibs, and legs secured with staples.

After all work is completed, the building is left for 1 year to shrink. To prevent the doors and windows from skewing, and to prevent the material from deforming, it is necessary to make gaps that disappear over time. While shrinkage occurs, you can construct the floor or rafters for the roof.

After shrinkage occurs, tow fills all the resulting gaps.

Mandatory rules

When constructing log buildings, the following rules must be followed:

Logs are harvested in winter because the material at this time is more resistant to precipitation and not prone to rotting. The tree can be used for preparations by dropping iodine on it; if it turns blue, then start working.
To increase service life and prevent rotting of the material under the influence of precipitation, it is necessary to treat the logs with an antiseptic.
Before starting the main work, the crowns are laid out on the surface and signed, and then they are installed sequentially.
All seams and gaps must be covered with tow, this will help retain heat.
When tying “in the paw”, the connection of the corner parts is sheathed with boards for additional fixation.
You also need to take into account that after shrinkage, the height of the building can decrease by up to 10%, so you need to immediately calculate this indicator.
To make the roof stable, the rafters are fixed with wire to the 3rd or 4th crown.
To prevent cracks from appearing in the log, it is necessary to make cuts towards the center. If they do arise, then the recesses are filled with tow.
When filling gaps, the tow must be hidden from getting wet, otherwise moisture will fall on the base material, which will lead to rotting.
Filling the gaps is done in the absence of rain to protect the material from getting wet.
To ensure that the logs do not move and are securely installed, they are secured with dowels located in the recesses, which are made in the center of the material.
When laying the initial crown, a gap may form between it and the foundation, which must be hidden with halves of logs.

In order to build from a log house, it is necessary to select the desired processing of the log, prepare the material, build a foundation, put waterproofing material and boards on it, and lay the initial crown of the log house on them. Then they begin to build the remaining crowns to the required height, after that they make openings for doors and windows, make floors, and leave the building to shrink, after which the roof can be made. To prevent deformation of the material and openings, it is necessary to leave compensation gaps that are filled with tow.

If the work is done correctly, the building will be warm and durable.