In repair and construction operations, it is very important to ensure the reliability of structures and connections. In many ways, this requirement is achieved through the use of building materials that are suitable for their characteristics, but even steel alloys and reinforced concrete will be subject to wear during operation if marking operations have been violated. The correct location of individual components of the structure eliminates general design from excess stress, not to mention basic adherence to line geometry. In addition to the conscientiousness of the master, it will be possible to correctly implement this task quality tool for marking, which is presented on the market in a huge assortment.
What is a marking operation?
It should be immediately clear that marking does not necessarily mean fixing the distance from one point to another when constructing a particular structure. As production and construction standards become more complex, the manufacturability of marking processes also increases. During this action, a foreman on a construction site or an operator on production line can determine the parameters of the workpiece, the characteristics of its location relative to other objects, etc. Modern instrument for marking, it allows you to record indicators such as length, width, height and angle.
Some models such as squares are also focused on initially determining how well an object, its parameters or location meet the requirements. As for the marking process, it mainly involves manual handling of measuring and marking devices. The user, in turn, is required to be attentive, accurate and thorough in removing and recording data.
Plane marking tool
A distinctive feature of a tool designed to perform measurements and marks in one plane is that it is tailored to basic geometric calculations. With the help of such devices, the user indicates the boundaries of contours, interaxial distances, marks marks, and records angular deviations. Similar actions are performed by spatial marking models, but they are distinguished by minimal productivity when working on one plane. So, the flat group of tools of this type includes a bench square, various scribers, protractors, rulers, etc. It is important to note that such operations also require auxiliary devices that are not directly related to measurements and markings. For example, stops and conductors are used in this capacity.
Actions of this kind are not always primary when performing architectural and design activities. Such a tool is also used in checking existing structures. If adjustments need to be made, then, for example, a metal scriber or a graver can be used. He will allow high accuracy construct points by which in the future it will be established new design or object.
Spatial marking tool
It has already been noted that it is not always advisable to use devices for spatial marking to work in one plane. However, the tool for planar construction is quite suitable for some operations with three-dimensional figures. The main difference between the spatial measurement for marking is the work in several planes. The standard situation is when marking devices of this type are used to fix parameters on one plane, after which the number of adjacent axes is checked.
Specialized tools for such operations include a vertical ruler and a surface planer. By the way, sometimes a horizontal plate is also used as a platform for measurements - its use guarantees the correct position of the workpiece on the reference plane. When working with three-dimensional objects, a caliper with pobedit tips, equipped with a locking screw, is also used. This tool is used to assess the basic parameters of an object and to carry out risks if necessary.
Features of wood tools
Carpentry and joinery operations with wood differ from metalworking in having less stringent requirements for the characteristics of the tools used. Measuring devices can be metal, wood, or polymer - from modern technological materials. In standard carpentry kits, marking tools for wood can be represented by rulers, tape measures and other devices for performing measuring activities. Especially for circles, geometric compasses of the required size are also used. To effectively record deviations, use a square. This small device, usually presented in the form of a perpendicular, allowing one to evaluate the correctness of maintaining the vertical position of the structure.
Features of metal tools
When working with metal workpieces, a special tool is required that can be used to make in-depth markings and draw contours on a solid surface. Conventional marking does not always pay off, so the same scriber for working with metal or a bench square is made of high-strength steel grades. The same applies to calipers. The presence of wear-resistant working tips in their composition is due not only to ensuring the possibility of making markings deep into the base. Soft metals are susceptible to deformation, which causes loss of specification accuracy. For this reason, tool manufacturers use pobedite brazing and make the base from special grades of steel.
In respect of technological methods measurements this tool generally corresponds to analogues intended for wood. In terms of design, a metal marking tool is almost identical to the same compasses and thickness planers, but it is important to take into account another feature. The body base in the handle part, for example, can be universal. Using different attachments, the master also uses it in operations with wood materials, and in working with metal. For example, surface planers in many models can be equipped with wear-resistant metal cores.
Tools for marking
In essence, any marking means applying an in-depth contour or dot notch. This function can be performed by a wide range of tools, including drawing devices, gauges and standard gauges, spring-type compasses and a core - a tool that is the simplest representative of this group. On the contrary, multifunctional devices implement the tasks of marking as auxiliary ones. These include, for example, models that allow you to find and center parts. These are special types of cores, squares, protractors, etc.
Punching marks
The mark itself is a depression made on the surface of a workpiece or structure using a core, that is, a metal scriber. This operation serves as a fixation of previously completed markings. It would seem, why essentially deform the material if you can mark the same contours with paint. But, firstly, the core creates a depression that will not be erased, unlike the outer coating, and secondly, it is the deepened risks that, in addition to spatial notches, can immediately prepare for drilling. The core itself is a simple and unpretentious tool. As a rule, it has a rod base that turns into a cone with a point. The core is guided by the mark with two fingers, placed perpendicularly given point and can be easily driven in with a hammer. Thus, punching is carried out on metal surfaces.
Coloring as a marking method
Hard core punching is not always acceptable. It cannot be performed on surfaces that must retain their original appearance, and when working with workpieces made of high-strength hard alloys. A way out may be to use a dyeing technique. But it should be understood that this technique has nothing to do with marking with paint. In this case, the entire surface of the workpiece is painted, and the resulting outer layer serves only to simplify the application of contours and notches. After painting, the same marking tool is used in the form of a core, square or compass. However, the coating can only be formed with special durable compounds. It could be copper sulfate, diluted chalk or special quick-drying varnish.
Auxiliary tools for marking
High degree of precision produced marking operations depends not only on the tool used, but also on the conditions in which the work process is carried out. To improve the convenience and quality of such events, they use vertical racks, special jacks, linings, rotating and dividing devices, headstocks for centering, etc. The main devices of this kind include a marking plate that imitates a plane. On this platform you can perform planar and spatial markings, as well as paint.
Mechanization of marking actions
Marking operations are among those areas of construction and design processes that are reluctant to transfer to mechanization. Especially if we're talking about about important procedures; manual verification is indispensable. Nevertheless, certain stages are still subject to transition to modern principles work. Today, mechanized marking tools are represented by electric cores. Unlike traditional models, such modifications are equipped with a power filling that drives the impact mechanism. Actually, the centering of the tool and its working part is carried out directly by the master, but instead of a light blow with a hammer, the sharp part of the tool is automatically hammered.
Marking tool manufacturers
Almost all manufacturers construction equipment And hand tools produce measuring devices, part of which are marking devices. Premium brands present in the segment include Bosch, RUBI, Irwin and Sturm. Companies that specialize in tools include MATRIX, Stanley, FIT, etc. Among Russian manufacturers we can note “Bison”, “Buttress” and “Anchor”. As for prices, the simplest marking devices such as cores cost about 100-200 rubles. A compass or scriber for metal is already estimated at 500-700 rubles. Multifunctional, technically complex or large devices can cost about 1-2 thousand rubles.
Conclusion
When choosing a suitable marking device, it is important to take into account the tasks that you plan to perform with its help. With all the advantages universal tools Manufacturers still recommend turning to specialized models. For example, a high-quality bench marking tool is significantly superior in accuracy to modifications also aimed at carpentry and joinery work. True, if we are talking about household use in a private household, it may come in handy. Still, the main thing in marking operations is the accuracy and attentiveness of the performer himself. From preparatory activities Before the final punching of the marks, each stage should be performed slowly and with repeated checks of the result.
Part marking is the most important operation in the production process chain. Depending on the requirements for accuracy and legibility of lines on the surface, the method of applying them is selected. Pencil, chalk, and marker are easy to use. No effort required when marking. However, these methods are not effective enough in many cases. The lines are too wide, easily removed during operation and are difficult to see during processing. The optimal tool for high-quality marking is considered to be a metal scriber. The lines are clearly visible and cannot be erased. The thin contour allows for the production of high precision parts.
Description of the tool
Domestic producers long years relied in production on strict rules regulated in legislative acts. Thus, the metal marking scriber GOST 24473-80 must comply with the dimensions and characteristics specified in the document. The following types of tools were allowed before production:
- one-sided;
- two-sided;
- single-sided with handle;
- double-sided with handle.
The material of manufacture was also discussed. The scriber could be solid carbon steel or carbide-tipped. Replaceable needles were sometimes used as a cutting element. The tool is made from steel grades U10, U12. Such models have their pros and cons. The disadvantages include rapid wear of the tip. The advantage is the ability to sharpen the device on any abrasive equipment. In addition, the steel sample is cheap. A metal scriber with a Pobedit tip will cost more.
Its service life is many times longer, it is not afraid of scale, dust, and dirt on the surface. A special diamond wheel is required for sharpening.
Download GOST 24473-80
DIY making
The home master is not limited by strict production regulations and requirements. He has the right to make a metalworking scriber for himself from the desired material, the right size, forms. Experienced craftsmen, even on large enterprises, where it is possible to use a factory-made product, they believe that a self-made model is better. Homemade scribe takes into account individual characteristics employee, features of operations. A comfortable handle is more comfortable to use, since you often have to exert significant effort when applying markings.
Having decided that a tool is necessary, the question arises - what should a metalworker’s scriber be made of so that it is convenient and lasts a long time?
There are many options, for example:
- Bench tools: file, tap, tool steel drills, core.
- Part made of high-strength alloy: valves, shafts, needles, spokes.
- Drills, drills with pobeditovy tipped.
Home production technologies require the presence of the necessary tool, work skills. Deciding how to make a scriber with your own hands in this case is the choice of the master. Among the most popular ways note the following:
- sharpening of convenient parts according to drawings;
- production of a holder for a scriber with replaceable needles;
- welded structure of handle and cutting edge.
When working with an abrasive tool, remember that it is unacceptable to overheat the workpiece. The appearance of scale on the surface is a defect. A minimum of 0.5 mm of metal should be removed in this case. Cooling liquids and a gentle processing regime are used.
A good solution for making your own scriber would be to use sewing needles. For their production, high-strength carbon steel is used. Having made the handle, it can be made of wood or other materials, insert clamping mechanism for a needle. It is first shortened to the required size. Even easier to use sewing needles You can remove the rod from the faulty machine.
Completely different modern approach Savvy craftsmen offer solutions to the problem. You can purchase a set of electronic scribers online. It works on the principle of arc engraving. To implement the idea, you need to know the principles of electrical engineering and skills in working with devices. Although the power supply voltage is small, even a cord from a computer USB port will do, you should follow safety precautions.
To make a carbide-tipped scriber, you need a diamond wheel. An ordinary abrasive will not cope with the task; it can only be ruined. When sharpening, the tool is not afraid of overheating, but the temperature should still be kept under control. Usually it is fixed with brass solder, which can melt. It is wise to use the services of sharpening specialists. IN living conditions A scriber with a carbide tip can serve for many years after just one sharpening.
Whatever manufacturing method the home craftsman chooses, he must understand that the work is worth the effort. Marking on metal using a metal scriber is better and more accurate than a similar procedure using a marker, pencil or chalk.
This is a high-voltage engraver-perforator! With the help of a scriber you can cut and apply various images or inscriptions on metal. Structurally, the tool is simple, and to make it yourself you will not need either machines or rare or expensive materials. This device can work perfectly from a computer's USB port.
All the necessary parts for the scriber are sold in this Chinese store.
And if portability is needed, then it can be connected using a regular 3.7 V battery. This device is very economical, it only requires electricity to operate and no other expenses such as drills, etc.
To make it you will need a dropper; you can buy it at any pharmacy for a couple of kopecks. The shorter needle will serve as an electrode. To connect it to the body, we put a PVC pipe on it. A cut needle cap will provide excellent protection against accidental arc injury. The very tip of the needle should protrude a maximum of a couple of millimeters from the cap. The coolest cable option for this device is the cables from regular headphones. They have good insulation and quite thin.
Soldering wires to a needle is quite difficult and for this we advise you to use Super Glue. The PVC tube from the drip will serve as an excellent dielectric.
So, the USB connector is glued. You can also glue the switch with superglue. The wire can be secured with electrical tape and everything will work perfectly. The wire going to the needle-electrode needs to be soldered and a PVC tube placed on top of it. That's all! The assembly is finished and the device is completely ready!
As you can see for yourself, the scriber is assembled very quickly and easily! About this device there is one very important nuance– IT IS PROHIBITED to repeat the process independently for those who are not familiar with the electrical safety rules or have no experience working with high voltage and I’m not familiar with radio electronics!
It is best to charge such a device from a power supply with a USB output. If a high-voltage discharge hits the USB cable, it will instantly damage the computer and will have to be thrown away. The device produces such an arc from a very weak power supply of 5V (volts) and only 500 mA, and this power supply is much more powerful - the same 5V, but already as much as 2 amperes and the difference in power is quite noticeable. Be careful - you can get an electric shock, of course, not fatally, but painfully.
Place two thick fiberglass plates on the table surface as a dielectric, and on top of them - steel plate, on which you can attach a sheet of paper with magnets. A high-voltage arc can easily make perforations, i.e. notch a large number of small holes, any porous materials such as paper or cardboard. In this way, you can make various stencils very quickly. If you need to transfer any image to metal, this can also be easily done using a drawing or printout. From the impact of a high-voltage arc, small potholes are formed on the metal, which form the image itself. The depth of such notches directly depends on the distance between the electrode and the plate; the greater the distance, the larger the arc and the stronger the blow!
A scriber is a necessary marking tool that can be used to draw a thinner line than a pencil. Once you've made your first scriber, you'll realize how easy it is and make a few more.
For this you need:
Wood lathe
- 3- or 4-jaw chuck
- drilling machine
- sharpener
- standard propane torch.
Most of my scribers are between 125 and 200 mm long. And in order to minimize the amount of metal processing work, they can be made from standard steel and brass rods with diameters of 5 and 12 mm, respectively. I make handles from a 025 mm blank, but sometimes I need a more solid handle, and I make it from a 038 mm blank.
I make the tip of the scriber from high-carbon, oil-hardening tool steel.
First, I cut off a piece of steel rod with a hacksaw and clamp it in the headstock lathe so that it protrudes approximately 12 mm. At very low speeds, I trim the end with a file. Then I clamp the centering drill in the tailstock and, having lubricated the end of the bar with oil, drill it under the center of the tailstock, which will support the bar during turning.
Then for the brass bushing I cut off pin 012 and 12 mm long and clamp it in the headstock chuck. To get a flat end where it joins the wood, I end it with a file. As with steel, I work at very low speeds. For lubrication and cooling, I lubricate the end with a couple of drops of oil and drill a hole along the axis of the pin equal to the diameter of the steel tip.
After this, I remove the pin from the cartridge, completely degrease it and the steel tip with liquid solvent, and pass the tip through the pin sleeve. From the side of the handle I release a sting of such length that I get a shank that fits well in the handle. On the other hand (with centering drilling) I leave the tip required length with a small allowance, which I saw off after turning the tip into a cone. Then, using regular pipe solder using a propane torch, I solder the tip to the brass bushing on both sides.
I fasten the brass bushing in the headstock, press the centered end of the tip with the tailstock, and use a file to clean the tip/bushing solder joint. I sharpen the steel tip with a personal file and leave the cylindrical part only at the tip, for support.
For the handle, I try to choose wood that is the same color or has an interesting pattern or color. I end the workpiece and drill a hole along the axis of this end with a depth equal to the length of the shank and approximately 0.8 mm greater than its diameter. The gap guarantees against non-gluing. Then, after degreasing the shank and sleeve with a solvent, I glue the handle to the shank with epoxy. Once the epoxy has hardened, I grind the handle down to its final shape.
I grind out the handle slowly. Having completely turned the handle, I grind it and finish it with shellac, linseed or tung oil. Having finished the handle, I take the scriber out of the cartridge, clamp the centered end of the tip in a vice and saw off the cylindrical tip protruding beyond the pointed part of the tip.
The last operation in the manufacture of a scriber is heat treatment and sharpening of the end of the tip. Heat treatment is a two-stage process, including hardening and tempering. I hold the scriber by the handle, with one finger touching the tip at the handle, and insert the end of the tip [a little further from the tip] into the tip of the flame. As soon as the tip of the sting turns cherry red, I quickly dip it into a can of motor oil. Cooling steel in oil will quickly lower the temperature of the steel and it becomes very hard but brittle - almost like glass. To make steel less brittle, it must be “released”, and for this it must be heated and cooled again.
Finally, I sharpen the tip on a sharpener. This is easy and simple to do, similar to sharpening a pencil on a belt sander.