What to make a backing for linoleum on a concrete floor. Linoleum underlay - a necessity or an extravagance? Is it necessary for linoleum

If the need to use a substrate under the laminate is beyond doubt, then there are different opinions regarding linoleum on this matter. Let's figure out in what cases it is advisable to use an additional layer and when it is not. This article will discuss the types, advantages and disadvantages of insulating material for different reasons, as well as the nuances of laying linoleum with a backing with your own hands.

What it is?

The underlay is a layer of insulating material that separates the finishing coating from the subfloor - joists and/or boards, plywood, concrete base. The material differs in structure, which determines its nature of origin, in the form of release in the form of rolls or plates with different thicknesses of 2-12 mm and capabilities. When choosing a substrate for linoleum, it is important to consider the type of coating itself, in particular, the type of its base layer.

Modern linoleum is baseless with a uniform structure, the scope of which is utilitarian premises, commercial and public buildings and the main one - its types are used mainly in houses and apartments. Among the main coatings, there are models based on foamed PVC, fabric, non-woven material - printed/felt felt, TZI with a combined base layer.

The most effective coatings are considered to be varieties of multilayer linoleum with a composite base layer. These are models on a duplicated base: felt + polyvinyl chloride foam and high-strength products with a calendered base, characterized by a single structure of a base layer made of polymer raw materials, pressed with a decorative abrasive coating.

In some cases, the use of a linoleum underlay is completely justified, while in others, an additional layer can become a source of discomfort when walking. To understand whether insulating material is right for you, let’s first understand its main functions.

What is it for?

If you use a substrate, then in different situations an additional layer:

  • Acts as a shock absorber of dynamic pressures. When the rough base cannot boast of a perfectly flat surface without small flaws, insulating material must be placed to hide them.
  • Compensates for minor imperfections in the subfloor with minor differences of up to 2 mm/m2, preventing premature wear of the surface covering due to additional loads created by surface tension due to bends and fractures.
  • It insulates moisture, which is important for apartments located on the first floors. The reason for cold floors is unheated damp basement below.
  • Absorbs sounds and helps retain heat. The comfort of using linoleum is largely influenced by the noiselessness of the floor covering in combination with its heat-insulating ability.

The disadvantage of using the underlay is that it creates a certain softness of the floor. Despite the fact that for some it is comfortable to move on such a floor, while others are against it, installing heavy furniture on soft flooring always fraught with negative consequences. Bulky storage systems can stand up unevenly, which will cause the structures to warp, and pieces of furniture with legs under pressure will deform the linoleum, leaving strong dents.

When laying linoleum, you should avoid using extruded polystyrene foam. This material in the form of panels with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm is ideal as a substrate for laminate flooring. But not for this soft covering like linoleum. If you put panels under it, the floors will turn out to be unsteady, providing an unpleasant sensation when walking. The use of MDF panels eliminates this problem.

When purchasing high-quality basic linoleum, the additional use of a substrate is lost.

Since most often the preparation of a wooden base, as well as concrete screed involves the use of cut-off waterproofing. So, taking into account the pros and cons of the substrate, the need for its use is always determined by specific circumstances.

Kinds

The classification of substrates is rather arbitrary, so the main criterion by which they are divided into types is the material of manufacture. It can be natural, synthetic, or a combination. Regardless of this, all materials have approximately the same low thermal conductivity, with a slight difference in its performance from 10 to 15%.

From jute

Jute backing is made using coarse textile fabric, which is made from plant fibers. Under general concept Jute is worth understanding as an annual spinning plant.

Pros:

  • Eco-friendly.
  • It has high elasticity and rigidity.
  • Provides good sound and heat insulation.
  • It is resistant to fire, the development of mold and mildew, as the fabric is treated with fire retardants and antiseptic compounds.
  • It is easy to install and effectively masks defects in the subfloor.
  • Durable.

Minus: expensive.

Made from linen

The advantage of using linen backing is good natural ventilation under the front covering and concrete base, due to the excellent “breathing” properties of flax. This guarantees the absence of problems with fungus, mold and pathogens, the triggering factors for the development of which are accumulations of moisture in combination with stagnant air.

Other advantages:

  • Ecological cleanliness.
  • Contains impregnation that prevents fire.
  • It is a good heat and sound insulator.

Minuses:

  • Insufficiently resistant to deformation.
  • It has medium hardness and strength.

From the traffic jam

To make it, crushed cork bark is used. Cork is an intermediate derivative of wood, which explains the content of lignin and the waste product of the honey bee - wax, due to the presence of cerin. It is these components that give the cork its hardness and resistance to moisture, and its elasticity is due to the unique content of many natural ingredients.

Pros:

  • High sound and heat insulating properties.
  • Hypoallergenic.
  • Good leveling ability.
  • Resistant to the formation of rot, mold and mildew.

Minuses:

  • Excessive softness, and this is almost always undesirable when working with linoleum.
  • There are restrictions on flooring in high humidity conditions.
  • High susceptibility to deformation under pressure from heavy furnishings.
  • The need for strict adherence to installation technology.
  • High price.

The moisture resistance of cork does not mean that the material is absolutely invulnerable to moisture. The substrate has a porous structure. The principle of operation of flax and jute is similar to the operation of mineral wool insulation, while for cork it is similar to polystyrene foam.

From pine needles

Relatively the new kind insulating material. It is made from wood processing residues coniferous trees and is characterized by high sound insulation characteristics coupled with excellent heat retention properties. The coniferous substrate has a specific smell, of which no trace remains after a while.

From combined materials

The production of combined type substrates involves the use of flax, jute, wool fibers in different combinations: flax + jute, flax + jute + felt, cork chips + bitumen/rubber as a binding component.

Weak sides:

  • There are no moisture-proof properties at all.
  • Low ventilation capacity of the material due to its high density.

Strengths:

  • High wear resistance characteristics.
  • Naturalness.
  • Zero susceptibility to deforming influences.
  • An advantageous combination of high noise insulation performance and low thermal conductivity.

Foam based

Compared to all analogues existing on the market, this option of insulating material for linoleum is considered the most inexpensive. The feasibility of using a polypropylene backing is determined by the trafficability of the premises; taking this factor into account, the service life of the material can vary from 5 to 10 years.

Pros:

  • Very simple installation, which boils down to laying strips with a slight overlap on each other and fixing them with adhesive tape.
  • Possibility of hassle-free replacement of old material with new one.

Among the relative disadvantages, one should note excessive softness due to the small thickness of the substrate. On the one hand, this prevents damage to the linoleum by heavy furniture, but on the other hand, walking on it may be uncomfortable. The sensations in this case are similar to those experienced when moving on a lint-free carpet.

Made from foil material

This is a type of foam backing. The composition of the material is isolon/polystyrene in combination with aluminum foil, which serves as a heat reflector. The area of ​​application of foil material is the organization of underfloor heating systems. Pros: strength and moisture resistance.

From fiberboard/OSB

Creating a substrate from these sheet materials due to the need to level the wooden base or concrete base as part of preparations for laying linoleum, when it is impossible to do a traditional wet screed.

Plus:

Possibility of quickly eliminating base irregularities to save time.

Minuses:

  • Low sound and heat insulation characteristics.
  • Careful sealing of the joints between the sheets is required. Otherwise, unsealed seams can cause cracking of the floor covering, especially when using economical linoleum options. For this reason, when laying on a wooden surface, a layer of rolled backing is formed.

So, laying a budget baseless household covering implies the mandatory use of a lining. When laying insulated linoleum with a foamed base layer, as well as models with a fabric base, there is no urgent need for a substrate. Multilayer types of linoleum with a textile base have their own backing made of some material.

Which is better?

When choosing a substrate, they take into account the purpose of the room in which they plan to lay linoleum and the types of flooring. The substrate that best fits under the base of the existing linoleum and directly on the floor material is selected.

  • Linen/jute substrates should be considered exclusively for warm rooms. In addition, they are good to use when new coating is laid on old linoleum.
  • Low room traffic is a reason for using synthetic substrates.
  • Most universal look the substrate is made of cork. It is compatible with any base and all types of linoleum.
  • Natural substrates cannot be used in rooms with high humidity and temperature conditions. In this case, impregnations will not help, so you cannot do without organizing waterproofing. For this purpose, thick polyethylene film is used.

It is important to take into account that linoleum models differ in wear resistance class, therefore:

  • Laying commercial flooring involves the formation of an additional layer of flax, and under the heated floor - of foil material.
  • When laying semi-commercial linoleum, a denser underlay of a combined type or made of jute is needed.
  • For an apartment where less wear-resistant household types of linoleum are used, jute/cork substrates are desirable.

Many craftsmen insist on using a backing, regardless of the type of linoleum - basic or baseless. Because in addition to the functions of sound insulation, thermal insulation and leveling of small irregularities in the floor, the additional layer eliminates direct contact of the coating with the base.

Base requirements

Concrete bases, even when the screed is fully mature, retain residual moisture inside. The change in moisture emission is influenced by the combination external factors– this is the humidity and temperature conditions And Atmosphere pressure. A floor covering with a special base will be affected by this destructive effect, and the use of a substrate will reduce it to the possible minimum.

On plywood, fiberboard, OSB, you can use the most common rolled backing. Suitable materials for laminate are made from pine needles, cork, parcolag - this is kraft cardboard + bitumen + cork chips, isoplat, duplex.

How can you lay it?

You can lay the insulating material yourself. When laying soft flooring, it is important to choose the correct thickness of the additional layer. Try to ensure that the thickness of the backing does not exceed the thickness of the front covering, although ideally they should be the same thickness.

A smooth surface of the subfloor is a guarantee that the substrate will successfully cope with the tasks assigned to it, one of which is to increase the service life of the coating. The best way preparing a concrete floor - a self-leveling screed, and a wooden floor - laying sheet material.

How to prepare the substrate?

Before laying the rolled material, it is unrolled and left to rest for a day at room temperature. If this is neglected, the substrate can change size even in a fixed state, which will provoke the formation of waves on the coating.

Which side should I put it on?

When forming a layer of foil material, its reflective side should be on top. Penoizol is placed with the smooth side up and the corrugated side towards the floor.

How to line it?

Connecting individual fragments of insulating material involves two methods of fixation: they can be glued to special compounds or secured with double-sided tape. The technology for laying rolled material, sheet or in the form of panels, has its own nuances, although in any case the laying of the sheets is done end-to-end on a primed base. Adhesive tape is glued at the junctions of adjacent sheets/cuts and along the edges.

Linoleum is becoming a common choice when choosing flooring. This is connected with his positive characteristics and democratic pricing policy. The material is wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and has aesthetic qualities. Wide choose color range, textures allow your imagination to run wild and choose what matches the interior.

Linoleum is easy to install and does not require special conditions during operation. The complex classification of the product and the variety of types of raw materials for production confuse many. However, for easier orientation in the world of linoleum, the consumer is offered a simple method of dividing the material: household, commercial and semi-commercial.

The latter type of product is widely used in everyday life and offers excellent characteristics, rich appearance, reasonable cost.

Having decided to lay this floor covering, owners are often faced with the question “Do I need a linoleum underlay on a concrete floor?” As a rule, it is always needed. It is up to the owner to decide which substrate will become the basis for the coating. It depends on the purpose of the room, the condition of the base, personal preferences for the substrate material and budget.

Many people mistakenly assume that there is no need to lay an underlay on a concrete floor if it is fairly level. However, minor defects and differences in the base still remain, and the “coldness” of the concrete has not gone away.

Of course, if linoleum is already accompanied by a good and high-quality substrate, the feasibility of flooring additional material disappears. However, such linoleum is very expensive and is rarely purchased. Often, flooring is chosen without an additional base. In this case, the substrate is necessary, as it performs the following functions:

  • Heat and sound insulation.
  • Elimination of small horizontal differences (no more than 2 mm per 2 m²).

If the product is spread on the first floors, the presence of a substrate is required. Many people prefer to install waterproofing as an additional layer to the substrate. This measure is resorted to in case of increased evaporation from the base on the ground. Linoleum and concrete are cool materials, so insulating the coverings is desirable, especially if there are small children in the house.

The material is made from a plant – jute. Its fibers are used in the manufacture of not only backings, but also carpet bases. roll materials. The fiber is distinguished by the fact that it absorbs moisture and removes it in the best possible way without affecting or destroying the coating.

Since the material is natural and can provoke the appearance of mold, fungi and other microorganisms, it is customary to treat it with special compounds - fire retardants. The measure allows you to eradicate the shortcoming and improve the characteristics of the product. The jute base is an excellent solution when choosing a substrate for linoleum. However high price stops.

The material is made from flax - a natural and environmentally friendly raw material. It is distinguished by its ability to self-ventilate. The substrate will not allow the appearance of microorganisms, mold and fungi due to its peculiarity.

The material is additionally processed with special components. They give the product fire-resistant qualities and prevent the product from rotting. Linen backing has a more affordable price; experts recommend its use in homes where people prone to allergies live.

A natural product made from wood bark. The crushed components of raw materials are pressed and are not added to the material chemical compositions. Cork backing is popular for warmth and soundproofing qualities. The product is also an excellent additional insulation.

It will be pleasant to walk on linoleum; the floor is soft and airy. However, comfort goes hand in hand with disadvantage. Cork material is very soft, any heavy furniture and even just footprints are imprinted on the surface. The indentations from the table legs will no longer regain their previous shape, the dents will remain. In this regard, it is recommended to lay the underlay in rooms freed from heavy objects and excessive loads.

Mixture of raw materials

The combination of all three natural components - wool, flax and jute - allows you to create a material that is unsurpassed in its qualities. The result is a product with increased wear resistance, moisture resistance and strength. Price policy for a natural canvas it is quite democratic.

Artificial analogues

A product made of foam material - isolon, penofizol, has become very popular due to its low cost. Its availability sometimes overcomes all the shortcomings of the material. The fact is that the product quickly fails and becomes deformed.

Accordingly, the comfort of walking quickly disappears, and the installed furniture begins to “walk” and lose stability. In other words, there is no correspondence between the service life of linoleum and the substrate. It is better to spend more and one time than less and ten times.

Having decided on the choice of substrate, you can begin preparing the base. It is better to treat a concrete floor with a self-leveling mixture. It will allow you to achieve a non-zero, but acceptable level of horizontality.

The procedure for preparing the floor is as follows:

  1. Identify all the imperfections of the foundation - cracks, bumps, holes, differences in horizontality. If there are any, it is necessary to cut off the bulges, cover up the cracks and depressions. Use the level to determine the size of the differences in horizontality. If the difference is small, then filling the screed will not be required. If the parameters are exceeded - more than 7 mm for every 2 m² - it is necessary to level the floor with a cement screed.
  2. The screed or “light” floor must dry thoroughly. Otherwise, the substrate flooring made of any material will quickly fail due to excessive moisture.
  3. If you decide to make a base for linoleum from plywood, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing on the concrete floor. Wooden base It will be better preserved and last longer if protected from moisture. By wooden surface It is advisable to use a sanding machine.
  4. The joints and seams of the substrate are treated construction tape. Accordingly, the material is not overlapped, but joint to joint. The backing does not stretch and lies freely.

Before laying the floor covering on the substrate, it is necessary to prepare the product. It is brought into the room where installation is planned. Roll out and cover the entire floor area to “lay down” and acclimatize the material. Linoleum is left alone for several days. After which you can begin work.

Laying of both the substrate and linoleum should be carried out in a room with a temperature not lower than +15°, humidity not higher than 70%.

It is better to lay linoleum with an overlap of at least 7 cm in size, then trim off the excess. This will allow you to make invisible joints. An influx of material is also implied on the walls. The distance between the wall and the cut linoleum is 2-3 mm. The already processed and finished linoleum is left to “sit” for several days. Only then do they begin to attach it with glue, double-sided tape or under the baseboard.

Laying the substrate will hide defects in the base and its differences. However, you should not think that significant bumps and spikes in the concrete base can be hidden with the product. They will tear both the substrate and the linoleum. Because of this, it is very important to prepare the base regardless of whether you are laying underlayment or not. Its presence will extend the life of the linoleum and increase the heat level of the floor covering. Correctly laid material will make the floors comfortable, soft and warm.

In order for linoleum laid on a concrete floor to last for a long time and not have to be replaced after a year, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. One of important points This preparation is the stage at which the substrate is mounted.

Why do you need a substrate?

Depending on the material, the substrate can perform several functions:

  • alignment;
  • thermal insulation;
  • hydrobarrier;
  • soundproofing.

Alignment

Linoleum is not as critical to horizontality as parquet boards or laminate, but it is still better to lay it on level base. Leveling is important for minor differences in height (1 - 2 mm) of the concrete screed. The best material, which performs the leveling function is moisture-resistant plywood.

Thermal and waterproofing

In rooms under which there is a street or an unheated space, it is better to place materials under the finished flooring that can act as a heat insulator. All types cope with this task, but the greatest effect can be achieved when using cork, felt or jute.

Rolled foam polymers stand apart. Due to their structure, they do not allow moisture to pass through and can be successfully used in conditions of high humidity as a waterproofing layer. They have the best thermal insulation characteristics polymer materials, foiled on one or both sides.

In addition to thermal insulation properties, cork or jute also has good sound insulation characteristics. They block impact noise transmitted through the floors.

Material selection

A large number of materials that can be laid as a substrate on the floor under linoleum create some inconvenience when choosing a specific brand. Criteria that help determine which better material bedding are:

  • price;
  • durability;
  • manufacturability;
  • availability.

Cost and durability

The cost of the substrate varies greatly. The most budget option is foamed polymers (izolon, penoizol, penofol and the like). The most expensive is cork - a natural material consisting of compressed pieces of cork oak bark.

The durability of the material determines how long it will take before the next repair. By saving, you can get a situation where in a year an expensive quality linoleum will require replacement.

Foamed polyethylene quickly collapses under the weight of heavy furniture and ceases to perform its functions. Dense varieties cork covering are able to retain their properties for up to 10 - 15 years. Intermediate position occupied by jute, felt and linen materials.

Installation method and availability

In terms of manufacturability, all materials are approximately the same. These are rolled products that need to be laid on the floor. Experts recommend making a multi-layer combined base, because a substrate consisting of several layers will work better than any one material, even if it is a universal one.

Very often, the decisive factor determining what material to put under linoleum is its availability in the nearest store. The choice is also influenced by the presence of large construction supermarkets or trading centers, where you can immediately purchase everything you need for repairs and order free delivery.

Preparing the base

A concrete floor should ideally be completely level. Unfortunately, this practically never happens in practice. Even when the screed is performed by professionals, there may be small defects (minor tubercles, depressions, cavities from escaping air bubbles).

Elimination of defects

It is best to knock down or cut off individual protruding bumps on the floor. Thus, the base for further work will be more even and will be less subject to wear in the future.

Recesses that are small in area and depth can be left untouched; they will not interfere. If the depressions are large enough, it is best to fill them with self-leveling mixtures.

Laying waterproofing

After the floor has completely hardened and dried, a layer of waterproofing must be laid on the surface of the screed. In the future, this can prevent the capillary rise of moisture from the ceiling and protect the overlying layers from getting wet.

Film installation

The cheapest material can be thick polyethylene film. It is advisable that the floor be covered with a whole sheet of film. If it is not possible to lay a film of such dimensions, waterproofing can be done from separate rolls of smaller width.

Waterproofing is not attached to the floor. Laying and fixing subsequent layers will prevent possible movement of the film in the future. The material is rolled out over the floor surface with an overlap of at least 15 - 20 cm.

Processing of joints

The joints must be taped. Required condition there is a small overlap (2 - 3 cm) on the walls. In principle, any tape will do, even packaging tape.

The best results are achieved when using reinforced PVC tape. It has some elasticity and is more durable and durable. A tape of such material usually has grey colour. You can also place double-sided tape along the overlap line.

Installation of the leveling layer

Moisture-resistant birch plywood works very well as a leveling layer. With a sheet thickness of 10 to 15 mm, it is possible to obtain an even solid foundation for subsequent work. Plywood is produced in sheets measuring 1500 x 1500 mm. For ease of use and to prevent deformation, they are cut into several parts.

Installation of sheets

The sheets should be laid on the floor in such a way that there is a small (3-5 mm) compensation gap between them and the walls, which is subsequently filled with elastic sealant. To others mandatory requirement is the spacing of the seams. When installing, the sheets must be placed offset relative to each other.

Fixing the material

To prevent the plywood from moving in the future, it must be fixed. For this, ordinary dowel-nails are used, with which the laid sheets are attached to the concrete floor. The size of the fastener can vary in diameter from 4 to 6 mm and length from 50 to 70 mm. Using large-sized dowel-nails will be a wasteful cost overrun.

It is necessary to pay attention to the shape of the dowel. It should be fastened “in a hidden way”, i.e. flush with the surface. When using a “fungus”, the hole for installation will need to be additionally countersunk. Plywood is a fairly soft material and this operation can be easily performed using a countersink or a ball cutter.

Requirements for fasteners

The fastener heads should not protrude above the surface of the sheets. If this rule is broken and subsequent layers are laid immediately, then the entire substrate will be damaged. On the finished surface of the floor, bumps will first appear above the caps, and then the linoleum in these places will wipe off fairly quickly. As a result, with intensive use in these places, it will wear through.

IN drilled hole Before installing the fasteners, it is recommended to add silicone sealant. Such an operation will restore the damaged waterproofing layer.

Laying the substrate

Fixed plywood – solid foundation and you can already lay a roll of underlay on it. The roll is rolled out onto the prepared surface.

A distinctive feature is that the selected material must be laid end-to-end. Otherwise, where the overlap occurs, the linoleum will lie unevenly. The joints are taped with tape. As with waterproofing, it is better to use more reliable gray reinforced tape.

If all stages of work are performed correctly, and each layer is laid on a pre-prepared base, then linoleum will not present any unpleasant surprises in the future and will last quite a long time.

Have you ever wondered if you need a backing for linoleum? Which one is better for a concrete floor and which one for a wooden one? What are its functions and what requirements must it meet? You will find answers to all these questions in this article. We will describe in detail all types, materials and nuances of laying the substrate.

Purpose of the substrate

Why do you need to lay the underlay? The linoleum underlay performs two functions. Firstly, it acts as a heat insulator. And its need will be higher, the colder the floors in the house.

And the second function is leveling out floor unevenness. Linoleum is a fairly plastic material, and any flaws in the rough base will appear on the surface of the coating after some time (see photo). Often, without a substrate, over time, small irregularities appear on the coating that were not visible before.

Additionally, as a by-product, the underlay increases the sound insulation of the room and gives the flooring a certain softness.

Substrate material

The division of substrates is very arbitrary, but most objectively they can be divided by material.

A. Synthetic substrate. These are all kinds of foamed polymers. Depending on the manufacturing technology, they can be elastic (polyethylene foam) and rigid (extruded polystyrene foam). It should be clarified that most of the material from this group is intended for installation, so their combination with linoleum is not the best.

According to reviews, polymer foams wrinkle quite well. And using such foil material on concrete floor, rest assured that after six months of operation, it will lose its consumer qualities.

However, their price allows you not to think about serious financial expenses, because... the cost of such linings is minimal.

B. Natural substrate. What materials are used in its manufacture can be found in the list. There are only a few types of material in this group:

  • Jute.
  • Linen.
  • Cork.
  • Felt.

Of these, the first two, jute and linen substrates, are very similar. They are made from natural fiber, are quite thin and have the weakest thermal insulation.

, according to reviews the most preferred option. The photo shows that it is made from pressed wood slag. Although this is an expensive material, it is moderately dense, provides reliable thermal insulation and does a good job of hiding minor imperfections in the sub-wood floor. But keep in mind that when purchasing a cork backing for linoleum, you need to lay the densest material.

How much does cork backing cost in stores? — Now the price is on average about 250 rubles per 1 square meter.

The felt backing stands apart. It is rarely used together with linoleum, although only it can give the flooring a caressing softness and enveloping warmth.

There is also different kinds wood and coniferous substrates, wool, etc. But in this article we will consider only the most popular and common ones.

The common property of all natural material substrates is:

  • Poor protection from biological damaging factors, such as fungus, rotting.
  • Fire safety leaves much to be desired.
  • Excessive softness. With prolonged exposure, heavy objects will leave deep indentations in the flooring, especially on concrete floors.
  • High price relative to its synthetic competitor.

But special impregnations can eliminate some flaws. That's why When purchasing any substrate made from natural material, carefully read the purpose of the impregnation. Typically, manufacturers themselves recommend choosing specific impregnation options.

Selecting a substrate

  • Jute and linen underlays should be laid only in warm rooms. They are especially good when laying new linoleum on top of the old one.
  • Synthetic substrates are used in rooms with low traffic.
  • Cork backing is the most versatile, but also the most expensive. It can be used on any prepared base and with any linoleum.
  • Felt backing for linoleum is ideal for bedrooms and children's rooms.
  • The use of natural substrates in rooms with high temperature and humidity is unacceptable. Even if they are processed special composition, their service life will not exceed six months.

General requirements for the base

A smooth and level subfloor is the key long service substrate and linoleum. Following this rule alone will ensure ease of installation of the floor covering and eliminate potential damaging factors. Depending on the type of base, get perfect surface possible in two ways. If it is a concrete floor, then it is best to use. And if the floors are wooden, then plywood 6-8 mm thick will help cope with this work ( more details: ). ATTENTION: after drying, the screed must be primed and the plywood must be oiled.

Rules for laying the substrate

Any substrate should lie rolled out for 24 hours, when room temperature. The floors are thoroughly swept. If the substrate needs to be placed on concrete base, then it is necessary to cover it with plastic film. It is needed to protect against moisture that will appear on the concrete.

Laying should be done end to end. The strips (sheets) of the substrate are glued together with tape as in the photo. Attention: Do not glue the cork backing to the base. Firstly, special glue for cork substrate is quite expensive, and secondly, very often, due to the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between the glue and the substrate, deformation of the latter occurs. Which is already evident on the linoleum itself.

The laid backing under the linoleum is trimmed so that 3-5 mm remains from the edge of the material to the nearest wall.

Almost immediately you can put linoleum on it.

Food for thought

A detailed article about what is specific to your situation.

The lion's share of commercially available linoleum is already equipped with a layer of insulation. But even in this case, the use of a substrate will qualitatively improve not only thermal insulation properties floor covering, but will also give additional sound insulation and softness to the floor. Remember, there are no floors that are too warm or quiet.

When the floor is laid, there are always unevenness and joints between the slabs, which is why the question arises whether a linoleum underlay is needed on a concrete floor when finishing building. Next we will look at possible options linings, as well as materials that are undesirable to use.

Why do you need a backing for linoleum - a few examples

Of course, uneven floors are not the only reason why it is recommended to lay one or another lining material under linoleum. But perhaps this is one of the most important factors to consider. After all, it is known that when you press the soft flooring material the relief surface underneath will definitely be imprinted on the coating. All protrusions and recesses will appear. However, dents and tears can also appear if the lining under the linoleum floor is chosen incorrectly, in particular, if the material is too soft. It will be enough to place a chair on such a surface or roll the wheels of a computer chair over it to leave clear marks.

With the help of a substrate, you can achieve increased sound insulation, and it can also serve as insulation. Of course, not every material can perform such functions, but only those that have the appropriate properties and at the same time satisfy the above condition, that is, not too soft. Below we present options for substrates that match the characteristics. In a nursery, some materials can create additional elasticity of the floor, which will protect the child from injury if he falls. Also, a dense base will simply serve to muffle steps, which is important where silence is valued, for example, in an office or in a child’s bedroom.

Lining is not required only in two main cases: if the linoleum is to be laid on an old but still completely intact floor covering, or if you have chosen a multi-layer material. In the first case, the base is old linoleum with an existing substrate underneath, or carpet. The main thing is that there are no too obvious irregularities that would be imprinted on the previous coating, otherwise it will have to be removed and the relief of the rough surface of the floor smoothed out.

Linoleum with its own backing is a special case. You always have a choice, since this material is sold both single-layer and multi-layer. The second type may have a jute base or made of foamed PVC, and the latter is often preferable in rooms with high humidity air and high temperatures, for example in a bathroom. The fact is that there is a type of linoleum that is fiberglass coated with polyvinyl chloride, which means that if the same component makes up the bottom layer, the coating will not deform when expanding. Natural, eco-friendly flooring material usually has a natural backing made of jute or flax fiber.

Multilayer linoleum does not require laying an additional base.

Requirements for the foundation - we comply with all conditions

The base on which the linoleum base or multi-layer flooring material is to be laid must be solid and not sag. Only in this case will there be confidence in the long service life of the coating. In this case, under no circumstances should the lining be laid directly on the ground. A concrete slab or a plank floor filled with joists can be used as a rough surface wooden house. Moreover, the wood must be treated with a moisture-repellent coating, since it is possible that moisture can penetrate under the linoleum, in which case it will be almost impossible to dry the wood from the moisture absorbed into it.

First of all, floor unevenness should not be pronounced. That is, the height differences between the protrusions and recesses should not exceed the permissible maximum of 7 millimeters. If necessary, the floors must first be carefully leveled by filling cavities and knocking down high protrusions. It is also possible to pour a concrete screed with careful smoothing of the solution. It is noteworthy that plywood can be used as a base for laying linoleum, sheets of which are nailed or glued to a plank or concrete floor.

It is imperative to ensure that the rough surface is not wet, and you should also warm up the room to prevent it before laying the substrate. high humidity air. Any contamination of the substrate, including oil stains, grease, paint or varnish drips, is not allowed. Ideally concrete surface must be puttied and primed. The wood will only need a primer after impregnation with special antiseptic substances.

How to prepare the base for laying the substrate - concrete and boards

Let's take a closer look at how exactly a particular base needs to be prepared before laying a lining on it, on top of which linoleum should be laid. It is most convenient to glue the coating onto a concrete base, since it can be leveled by pouring a screed from cement-sand mixture. This can be either a solution from separately purchased components, or a ready-made dry mixture, in which all proportions have already been met, and you just need to add the amount of water required by the instructions. The second type also includes self-leveling compounds that spread well over the surface.

When the room is completely filled with screed, you need to wait not just for hardening, but for complete drying, since moisture is contraindicated when laying the substrate - mold can form. It is very easy to find out whether moisture has left the concrete structure to a sufficient extent. in a simple way. You just need to attach a piece of cellophane to any part of the screed and secure it with high-quality tape around the edges. After a few hours, inspect it, and if it is covered with condensation on the underside, wait another 3-4 days, then repeat the check. After the screed has completely dried, be sure to clean it of dust and only then fix the linoleum lining.

Another option for floors, on which the base for covering is often laid, is plank. Here you can choose mainly materials that level the surface well; you can also give preference to soundproofing ones, since insulation materials are usually used directly during installation wooden floors. The surface itself needs to be well prepared, even if you have already decided what to lay under the linoleum. In particular, pay attention that the heads of nails or screws do not stick out; they can subsequently, if not break through, then at least deform both the lining and the flooring.

The cracks must be carefully sealed, for example, using a paste of PVA and small sawdust, and protruding knots must be trimmed off. Next, start grinding, for which a special machine is usually used. Also, if you are sure that the nail heads are well recessed, you can use a scraper, which will eliminate even minor differences between individual boards. Usually, after this, cracks become clearly visible, which are recommended to be puttied. All that remains is to sweep away the debris, wipe the surface from wood dust and you can start fixing the substrate.

Materials as a layer on top of the floor - we solve various problems

If there are too many indentations in the base, e.g. concrete slab If there are chips or cavities, the surface should be leveled. Plywood sheets are perfect for this. It is enough to lay several sheets over the entire area of ​​the room so that the joints are made without differences in height, and you will get a completely flat plane. Next, you can safely stick on the linoleum. Fiberboard is a good budget alternative to plywood, but this material is less durable. However, both types of base, according to many experts, to a certain extent reduce the service life of linoleum, since they are too hard, and the coating on top gradually collapses under pressure.

There is also a special rolled cork material, and this is perhaps the most best base, especially if you choose the most dense structure. The moderately elastic backing contains small fragments of wood along with natural cork. The substance used as a connecting component is subatin, which is also present in the bark of cork oak. There are options connected using synthetic glue; they are less environmentally friendly, but more durable and are not inferior in quality natural material. However, the cost of covering one room will be quite high.