When processing a workpiece requires powerful and at the same time soft blows, a mallet made of wood or with a rubber striker is usually used for this. However, the former are deservedly more popular.
This tool can be used for a variety of purposes, but is most often used in the home workshop when performing carpentry and carpentry work.
First you need to cut necessary preparations for making the “head” of the mallet. In this case, the master decided to use different types of wood to create some contrast. Many will agree that work beautiful instrument much nicer.
Step-by-step process for making a wooden mallet
First of all, the master glues two identical rectangular blanks. Then he makes grooves in the center of the bars. After cutting on circular saw The grooves need to be straightened with a chisel. Next, these blanks will need to be glued together.
At the next stage, the master begins manufacturing wooden handle for the mallet. There is nothing complicated here - anyone can do it. Two cuts must be made in the upper part of the handle so that the wedges can be inserted.
And after the glue dries, all that remains is to cover ready product mineral oil, varnish or wax. For more information on how to make a comfortable wooden mallet with your own hands, we recommend watching the video on our website.
If you need a wooden mallet, but you only have a basic set of tools, this article is just for you. All you need is a saw, a clamp, some wood glue and sandpaper. If you have a miter saw, drill, and router, that's great because they can come in handy when finishing, but they're not absolutely necessary. Ready? Then go ahead!
Wooden mallet: necessary materials
Mallets are usually made from hardwood, but you can use whatever you like. Wood of contrasting colors will look beautiful. We will use meranti and white oak.
Since our mallet will be made according to the “sandwich” principle, everything wooden elements must be the same thickness. In our case it is 20 mm, but 25 or 30 mm will do if you prefer.
- handle: 320×35 mm (and 20 mm thick) made of oak;
- firing pin: 500×70×20 mm;
- dowels (optional): 2 elements with a diameter of 9 mm and a length of 70 mm.
Wooden mallet: necessary tools
Necessarily:
- saw;
- pencil;
- ruler;
- clamps.
Optional:
- a template in the shape of a square or just a right angle;
- Miter saw;
- milling cutter;
- drill.
Cutting out the elements of the future mallet
We cut out the elements from wood to the required size. Choose the width of the handle so that the future mallet is as comfortable as possible for you (we will have 35 mm). The same applies to the length (we will have 320 mm). For the striker, we cut out two elements 140 mm wide and two elements 60 mm wide.
We connect the elements of the mallet together
Make sure that all elements have a smooth and even surface at the junction points. Place one of the wide pieces for the striker on a small piece of wood (this is necessary so that the clamp does not leave marks on the face of the striker). All other parts of the mallet will be attached to this element.
Place the handle on it strictly in the center and at a right angle using a ruler. Once you find the desired position, secure it with a clamp. Make notes with a pencil in case the clip comes off (but try not to let that happen).
Apply a thick layer of wood glue to the inner surface of the element on one side of the handle. Glue a short striker element to it, remembering to ensure that all corners are right. The edge will stick out, but that's okay - we'll cut it off later. Secure this part securely with a clamp. Remove excess glue with a rag.
Now detach the handle, apply glue to it and glue it in place. You can make the handle stick out from the firing pin. We'll make sure it's flush. Make sure that all angles are right and the handle is exactly in the middle.
Take the second short element of the striker and do the same with it as with the first. Make sure that all elements are at the same level at the top and bottom, and that the handle fits snugly against them.
Let the glue dry, leaving the product for 24 hours. Check that the inner surface is smooth and level. If necessary, use sandpaper. Glue the second long element of the striker and secure it with a clamp. Be sure to reuse a piece of scrap wood to avoid damaging the front surface.
Intermediate result
And so, we should end up with an unsightly mallet with protruding edges. We need to fix this!
Step you can skip
We will also cut the dowels into the head of our mallet. They do not perform any function other than decorative. When it comes to wood, glue provides a stronger connection than dowels, so they won’t make a difference. But they look beautiful! Drill holes through the striker, apply glue to the dowels and cut them into the striker. After the glue has dried, cut them flush.
And one more step that you can skip
Often, mallets have a handle that sticks out, but we make it flush. Therefore, cut off the end of the handle that protrudes from the other side of the firing pin.
We give the mallet striker the required angle
The angle of the striker should be such that its surface is approximately parallel to your hand when you hold the mallet in it. You can choose the angle that is convenient for you or simply make 4 degrees, as in our article. You can use a miter saw, but a hand saw will also work. The main thing is to make marks in advance and cut carefully. If you don't have a protractor, just find and print out any protractor online, then use it as a stencil.
Bringing the surface of the mallet to perfection
Sand the mallet with sandpaper. Admire the work done. If you have a router, you can create smooth curves on the handle at the grip area. If you don't have a router, you can simply sand the edges. You can also make a curve at the end of the handle. Overall, give your piece the look you want.
Treating the surface
Mix beeswax and mineral oil and treat the product. Our homemade mallet is ready! Now you have a convenient and beautiful handmade tool. Try it out at work!
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A wooden mallet can be used for a variety of purposes, but the main uses are carpentry and carpentry. For example, a wooden mallet will be needed to assemble tenon joints. The fact is that when struck with an ordinary metal hammer, serious dents are left, which then have to be sanded out or puttied. A wooden hammer does not leave such pinpoint dents.
We will make a wooden mallet with our own hands. Oddly enough, there are quite a lot of options for assembling such a tool. The fact is that for different purposes, the shape and weight of the product may differ significantly. It's one thing to use a heavy mallet in construction, for carpentry work. And wood carving is a completely different thing, I mean creating sculptural compositions.
Let's try to take a standard type of mallet as a sample, one might say a basic model.
Among other things, this option is the most universal.
First you need to select two blanks, for the handle and the head. The material can be used from different types of wood. Some people only make oak mallets, but from my own experience I can say that wood that is too dense leaves marks on wooden parts from soft rocks.
Therefore, appropriate material is selected for different purposes. It could be oak, beech, birch, pear for hardwoods, or maple, alder, cedar for softer ones.
The photo shows a mallet made of oak.
General dimensions of a wooden mallet: Head - length 130 mm. , width 90 mm. , thickness 60 mm. . Length including handle 350 mm. .
You can make a beveled surface at the ends of the mallet. This is more convenient when cutting out nests and other work with a chisel and chisel. Usually they make a bevel angle of 6-8 *, but that’s what you like.
Next, we make markings in the center of the mallet to hollow out a through socket.
The most reliable mounting option is when the handle goes onto the cone and is inserted from above. This is how sledgehammers, picks, splitting axes and mason's picks are mounted.
Pictures from literaryworkshop.wordpress.com
Handle thickness 20-22 mm. , width 30-32 mm. , or so.
According to this section, we mark the nest on both sides of the head and cut out the nest with a chisel, cleaning it with chisels.
Then we adjust the cross-section of the handle to the socket so that it fits into the cone from above.
The main error that may appear during assembly is a mismatch between the cone of the handle and the socket. Of course, you can give up and make a new one, but in general, if desired, everything can be adjusted.
If the handle at the bottom is installed with gaps, then wedges must be cut and driven into them. An optimist can even glue them in, but I think it’s better to leave the opportunity to immobilize a mallet that is loose on the handle with these wedges. If the gaps are large, then it is better to glue the wedge on one side and finish it off with the other when fixing it.
Homemade wooden oak mallet. You can also make a toy for a child, see how to assemble a fake one.
Of two mallets of the same size, the plastic one is heavier than the wooden one. It is convenient for working with thin sheet metal. Therefore, roofers and tinsmiths readily use it, especially since it is less “noisy”. Its manufacture does not require special skills, expensive materials or special tools.
Will need
To make a plastic mallet that is beautiful in appearance, easy to use and reliable for many years, we must prepare the following materials:- A canister or two, it all depends on the size. Suitable ones are those made of polyethylene. low pressure(HDPE, HDPE);
- wooden blank (maple, cherry, etc.);
- linseed oil.
- electric oven and hair dryer;
- drilling machine and jigsaw;
- milling cutter, grinder and grinder;
- plane, knife and spatula;
- clamps, chisel and hammer;
- wooden form.
Plastic mallet manufacturing technology
As raw materials for plastic mallets, we use products made of high-density polyethylene, which is not subject to cracking.Before melting, we cut the plastic into pieces using construction knife, carefully removing stickers, labels, traces of glue, etc.
The crushed raw materials, placed on a metal baking sheet, are placed in an electric oven heated to approximately 125 degrees Celsius, at which the plastic softens and begins to melt.
If it turns out that after melting the mass is insufficient, then you can add more raw materials on top of it and reheat everything again.
While the polyethylene is melting, we will make a handle for the plastic head. From wooden board According to the markings, we cut out the workpiece with a jigsaw.
Then we process it with a hand plane, giving the tree the desired profile and cross-section. The edges of the workpiece are rounded mechanically milling head. We clean and polish the handle with a grinder and a sanding disc.
We take out a baking sheet with molten polyethylene from the electric oven and, using a spatula, place it in wooden box, heating the mass with hot air from a hair dryer.
As soon as the softened plastic is in the box, we cover it on top with a punch lid and press it in with clamps, while other stops keep the bottom and side walls of the box from moving.
After the plastic mass has hardened and taken on a rectangular shape, remove the clamps, disassemble the box and remove the mallet head blank. We attach with a jigsaw plastic block required sizes and shapes.
We make a through hole in the head blank for the handle on a drilling machine. Using a chisel and hammer, we expand and modify the round drilling into a rectangular one, in which the inlet section is larger than the outlet.
We place the plastic head on the wooden handle. Thanks to the tapering cross-section of the hole and handle, the fastening is reliable and durable without additional effort or elements. We remove the head and finalize the dimensions and correct the shape on the grinder.
Reassemble the mallet and lubricate the handle linseed oil. This impregnation will increase the service life of the handle, protecting it from moisture penetration.
Working with a plastic mallet is much more convenient and efficient compared to a wooden one due to its compactness, weightiness and lack of rebound.
When the material being processed requires powerful and at the same time soft blows, a wooden hammer comes to the aid of the master. This tool has a striker unusual shape, often used by joiners, carpenters and many other trades. A mallet, simple in its structure, becomes a real salvation when it is necessary to forcefully influence an object without damaging its surface. Like the models of this instrument, technological processes its manufacture varies. In this article, we will talk about the areas of application of the mallet and share detailed instructions to create this hammer from minimum set materials.
Area of application of the mallet
The use of a wooden hammer extends to many areas of activity. Most often, the mallet is found in carpentry, where it is used together with a chisel or chisel. The dimensions and weight of tools used in this industry can vary significantly. In addition to the usual hammer design, the mallet can have a turning shape (turned on a machine) and be used in figure cutting on wood.The instrument became no less widespread in plumbing. A mallet is used when it is necessary to remove a jammed part from its place or straighten dents in sheet metal. For such work, a wooden hammer with a striker is used. round shape. Rubber mallets are less effective in plumbing because they have a less precise impact, unlike wooden ones.
Assembly and dismantling of furniture also did not bypass this loyal tool, where it is used to tightly connect parts with decorative surface. A mallet (or a spinning hammer) makes installation much easier paving slabs when it is necessary to compact an object in an adhesive solution. These are not all areas where such a device can be used. If you see the potential of this instrument, then you will find instructions on how to make a mallet with your own hands from wood.
Technological map of the mallet
(adsr)Wooden hammers can have a wide variety of shapes: with rectangular or cylindrical strikers, round, oval and even carved handles. Each master who independently makes an instrument for personal use tries to make it as convenient as possible and at the same time proceeds from his capabilities. Some may have a functional workshop with a workbench, sawmill and router at their disposal, while others only have a saw and a sheet of sandpaper on hand. Below we will present several options for assembly drawings of the mallet product, so that you can accurately determine the design of your future tool and not encounter problems during its manufacture
Presented above routing making a mallet, describes the most simplest process manufacturing of this device. Instead of a workbench, in the fourth step, you can round the handle using a plane and sanding paper, as indicated in the adjacent instructions. Drilling workbench, can be easily replaced a regular drill.
The above instructions require mandatory availability lathe, and demonstrates how to make not only a convenient, but also a beautiful instrument. For the most accurate resemblance to the sketch, it is better to use templates. This drawing of a mallet (or training card) is aimed at producing the tool in large volumes and in an equipped workshop, but with the right experience it can be repeated at home.
1. Before you begin the process of creating a mallet, it is important to decide what type of wood it will be made from. The best wood For the striker, birch, oak, beech, pear or maple are considered. It is better to make a handle from birch, rowan, maple, ash or elm. To make a mallet you will need only 3 pieces of wood measuring 120x90x18 (for the striker) and one 350x40x18 (for the handle). To work, you will need a wood saw, wood glue, as well as a clamp or vice to hold the product while it dries.
2. Having selected and sawed the material, we clean it with sandpaper.
3. From the diagram above you can see that the central part of the striker is a groove for the handle. Since the width of the handle is 40 mm, and the striker is 120 mm, we need to measure and cut parts 40 mm from the edges, as shown in the photo below.
4. We assemble the parts of the striker, leaving a groove for further fastening the handle. Apply glue, clamp with a clamp or vice and wait for it to dry completely (at least 2 hours).
5. While the firing pin is being glued, you can shape the handle by smoothing out the corners at the grip area. For this, it is most convenient to use a cutter. If you don’t have such a tool in your arsenal, you can trim the edges with an ax or chisel, and then clean them with sandpaper.
6. When the firing pin is completely dry, it is recommended to slightly file its side (impact) parts at a slight angle. In order not to make a mistake in the slope, we simply mark 10 mm from lower parts striker and draw a line to them from the upper corners. The point is that the firing pin is not rectangular, but prismatic, as in the photo below.
Wooden mallet.
12/11/2014. 8th grade
Topic: Making a mallet for carpentry.
Lesson objectives:
- Introduce students to the product of a mallet for carpentry.
- Strengthen skills in drawing up a work plan for products, reading drawings, technological maps.
Develop cognitive interest, speech correction, through correctional tasks and practical work, enriching vocabulary.
Foster independence, hard work and a culture of communication.
Lesson type : combined.
Equipment : notebook, textbook, workbench, marking tool, sanding paper, hacksaw, plane, drilling machine, technological maps.
Dictionary : mallet - This is a large wooden hammer.
Drilling machine, chisel.
DURING THE CLASSES
1 . Organizing time .
1.Greeting.
2.Checking readiness for the lesson and organization of workplaces
Lesson setting to activate mental activity.
(decipher the proverb)
Teacher: “Without labor there is no good »
2. Updating basic knowledge.
Frontal survey:
What tools are needed to make a mallet?
Why can the tapholes become clogged with shavings when planing?
Why does the quality of all work depend on the markings?
3 . Learning new material.
Teacher: We will get acquainted with the carpenter's tool - a mallet, and also consolidate knowledge on drawing up a plan for practical work of the sequence of making a carpenter's mallet.
Corrective exercise.
Task: Determine the longest and shortest segment.
Summing up the completed task.
Teacher: Guys, what type of wood should the mallets be made from?
(made of hard, sticky wood)
The strength of the workpiece, and therefore the product, depends on the age and type of wood, the location of the cut and the conditions for obtaining and storing the material. Wood species can be easily identified if you know them characteristics. Such as, for example, the presence or absence of a kernel, growth rings, width of sapwood, size of heart-shaped rays, color, smell, texture. For wooden parts tools will do wood of any hard species that grows in our area. But when selecting a workpiece, you must remember that the wood must be damp, without cracks or knots. All carpentry tools are used to process hardwood.
And so the guys use dense, viscous hardwood to make a mallet.
Let's make a plan for making a mallet. Routing.
Plan:
1. Select materials for the head and handle.
2.Mark and cut out the blanks. The blank for the head is taken along the length of 2-3 mallets at once to make planing more convenient.
3. Plane the blank for the head to size.
4. Make a handle.
5.Mark the head, drill blind hole and clean it up with a chisel.
6. Saw off the head from the workpiece and process the ends.
7.Fit the end of the handle to the hole in the head, make a cut, and make a wedge.
8.Place the head onto the handle.
9. Clean the mallet.
Equipment : hacksaw, plane, drilling machine, chisel, sanding paper, product template, technological map.
Physical exercise to strengthen the eye muscles.
Starting position: sitting at a desk.
Close your eyes. -3 seconds.
Close your eyes tightly. - 5 second.
Perform frequent blinking - 5 seconds.
Repeat 5-6 times.
Work in a notebook.
Exercise.
Write down the date and topic of the lesson.
Write down a work plan.
(Today we will replenish lexicon words, read aloud and write down)
4. Fastening:
1.How is the mallet head connected to the handle?
2. How long is the blank for the mallet head?
3.How do you make holes for the handle in a mallet?
Teacher: (Continued study of the topic)
Based on the consolidated and acquired knowledge, we proceed to practical work for making a mallet
Briefing.
And before starting work, we will repeat the TB with the tool you will have to work with, that is, TB with a hacksaw, TB with a chisel, TB with sanding paper, TB with a drilling machine, TB with a plane.
5 . Practical work.
Ongoing teacher briefing.
Checking the quality of work.
Self-control .
Work analysis, analysis typical mistakes and establishing their causes.
6. Summing up.
I think today's lesson has given you the knowledge to make the basic parts carpentry tools.
And if in later life you choose the profession of a joiner or carpenter, then this knowledge will be useful to you.
Assessing students' work in class.
Cleaning the mind.
Kiyanka - This is a large wooden hammer.
Drilling machine
Chisel
DIY mallet aslan wrote in March 9th, 2018
In general, now there is a large selection of mallets; purchased white rubber mallets are excellent for the job. White because it does not leave black spots from use. I have one like this. I also have another homemade one, made from a pillow from a truck. In general, I have a total of more than 25 hammers, sledgehammers and mallets.
But I am of the opinion that it is more pleasant to work with a beautiful instrument. And I decided to make myself a beautiful mahogany mallet. Well, why not? Some will say that this is foppishness, but I enjoy working in the workshop. If lace on a mallet brought me pleasure, I would attach it :)
Some people will be outraged by this, guys, you won’t be nice to everyone. Yes, I use hand tools.
I decided to make the handle from a stick from an oak pallet, and decorate the headband with sapele. A drawing was downloaded from the Internet
It's not that I don't have anything to make a handle out of, but first I need to look at the grain of the wood. Someone told me it was like Japanese oak. I haven’t been to Japan, I won’t say.
I cut oak and sapele into rough cuts.
I cut it and forward, with a plane. I have both a surface planer and a jointer (it’s dangerous to approach it with such wood chips), but I do it for my own pleasure, right?
I will have sapele around the edges, and the same oak inside. We assemble the block with glue. The handle is made on a reverse wedge, i.e. When working it will only shrink more tightly. The handle doesn't stick.
Now, using a chisel and a plane, we form the bevels, and also knock down the chamfers.
I decided to glue strips of veneer onto the handle, otherwise it looks a little rustic + there is a mark from a nail. The stick is from a pallet. Then I chamfered the handle so that it would fit in my hand.
And here is our result after coating with oil.
I use a mallet. It fits well in the hand, you take it right away, your hands feel the orientation of the striking part due to the rectangular handle.
When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing such a product as rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones exactly, and whether there is an ideal mallet option.
Rubber mallet – both convenient and safe!
Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products of the most different forms. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the “engine” of chisels in the process of cutting parts. This happens as follows: in one hand the master holds a chisel, applying it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, with which he hits the end of the chisel handle, giving it the force necessary for cutting. The lightness of the material allows you to avoid severe hand injuries and is gentle on the instrument itself.
There are two types of mallet in shape - lathe, turned from whole piece a wooden mallet, which resembles a skittle or a small bat, and a mallet, which is shaped like a sledgehammer, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first is its convenience, because whatever point of the mallet you hit will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the hand. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, more concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitoring the position of the head in relation to the chisel.
Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not be possible to make such a tool without a special workbench.
Disadvantages of materials - imperfect mallets!
The beaters have significant drawback– since they are made from a blank with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use working part After some time, such a mallet resembles a real washcloth, no matter what type of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers offer us what they consider to be improved tools. For example, a bronze “casing” is put on a turned mallet.
To some extent, the result is a truly durable tool, but the chisels themselves cease to be so! After several visits, they will look exhausted, not the mallet.. For such a tool you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be the ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the impacts are very gentle on the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - rubber tends to spring back when impacted.
It turns out that there is no ideal mallet? After all, we need to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:
- convenience;
- durability;
- lack of shock absorption;
- optimal weight.
Manufacturers have not yet offered ideal option, but the masters themselves learned how to make it!
The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber...
Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What options are there for creating a mallet? If you have previously purchased a turning tool, then at a minimum you can wrap several layers work area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge to the wood with wood glue at the beginning of the winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.
In addition, if the size of the material allows, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bit with a worm clamp or, as a last resort, make a winding of strong twine. You can nail the protruding edges on top to the end of the mallet with small nails or simply cut them off - if you glued the layers well, this option will last quite a long time. However, it is much better to make the mallet entirely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last almost forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather; in the market you can look for scraps from sellers, which they will be happy to give, if not for free, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.
How to make a mallet with your own hands - step by step diagram
Step 1: Prepare the handle
It is best to use hard wood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut will also work. If it is possible to turn it on a lathe, then do this to obtain a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a protrusion in the middle of the handle so that there is a stop for the layers of skin. If you don’t have a lathe, you can wind several layers of rope for support.
Step 2: Preparing the Skin
You need to cut many round pieces of the leather of the same size. To begin with, make one layout and mark the required amount on a piece of material for it - depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 of these circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the thicker it is, the fewer layers will be needed.
Step 3: String the Layers
Make a hole in each layer so you can thread the leather onto the handle. We connect each layer with subsequent PVA wood glue, trying to press the layers together as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and coated with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until the glue dries completely.
Step 4: Attach the washer
To prevent the leather layers from falling off in the future, you need to attach a large washer - metal or wood - to the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to choose optimal size for your pen to prevent it from cracking. That's all! The leather will not shatter into small splinters during operation; impacts actually get stuck in this material and do not create as much noise as when working normally. wooden instrument. Of course, it makes sense to tinker with such a tool when you constantly work with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden hammer mallet is quite suitable!
How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!
To do this, you don’t even need a drawing of a mallet - it’s very simple! Find three fairly large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder types of wood, except for handles, since they split from constant impacts. Adjust all the scraps to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and trace its outline. Then saw the block using a band saw or bow saw so that the resulting two pieces fit tightly to the handle. It is important that the handle and these two trims have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.
We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and trim off the excess. Sand it thoroughly with sandpaper and coat the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted to direct labor.
- Look, the handle bracket is chrome.
The product itself is an inertia-free mallet from Vladimir Zhukov. Assembled from hand-selected wood. Oak and plum (cherry). The whole process is in the photo. I needed a heavy mallet with a short handle.
First, a blank for the head of the mallet is glued together from the blocks. Bog oak plates (veneer) are laid between the parts. The gluing was done at the "carpenter" moment.
After the glue has dried and the sander has given it a more rectangular shape, a Forstner cutter is used to select through holes that connect to each other.
We clean them to an oval shape and fill them with lead shot. From below you can see that another flat part is being glued in (exactly the same one will close the cavity on top) 
We also glue the ends with plugs. The shape of the blank is first roughly given with a plane, and then finished using a grinder.
The handle is exactly the same sandwich (in the part held by the hand) at the junction with the “head” it has rectangular section. For wedging, two cuts should be made; to protect against splitting, they end with holes. 
The handle is placed on the glue, wedged and, after final gluing, it is sanded again, this time by hand.
Finishing treatment - coating with AQUATEX balm colorless oil 
Learned a real man's rattle! Its weight was 827 grams. When struck, it does not rebound upon impact and, despite its small dimensions, has a large weight.
The feeling when working is approximately like slapping your palm on asphalt or wet clay.
In general, the thing turned out to be not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish. 