Such a simple and simple tool at first glance, like an anvil, is a mandatory attribute of any blacksmith. Without it, it is impossible to carry out even the most simple actions related to .
At the same time, purchasing this device is not mandatory, because any craftsman can make an anvil with his own hands.
Anvils are the most important tool that allows you to perform various blacksmithing works related to hot forging of metal. This element of the workshop is quite specific, but it is simply irreplaceable in the case of professional production of forged products.
Such a tool may vary depending on the type of problem being solved. It can have a variety of structural elements, sizes and shapes. There are mainly two types of forging anvils: one-horned and two-horned.
The first version of the device is in greatest demand. Horn is used in the formation of bends metal products in figured forging.
What does the anvil consist of?
The sides allow you to make bends at right angles. The surface of the device itself is smooth and even, and also ground and hardened. This is the working part.
It contains two holes, square and round shape, used when performing additional operations with products and when maintaining the tool.
Based on weight, anvils are divided into small, medium and large. The best option is the heaviest models weighing 95 kg or more. Such devices allow you to work with large workpieces.
At home, such a tool is not one of the most necessary. However, its presence allows you to easily align various products, such as nails, wire or sheet metal.
Naturally, use for domestic purposes does not require the mandatory purchase of such a tool. However, if necessary, a homemade anvil can be made. It will easily allow you to perform all the simplest functions that are required of it.
Of course, to produce a high-quality figured product at homemade version extremely difficult. In this case, it is better to pay attention to professional models. But for all other needs, hand tool will be the best choice.
Anvil elements
A blacksmith's anvil is a mandatory attribute of his workshop. With its help it is carried out whole line technological operations with metal. This tool used for forging, giving metal the required shape, hardening, etc.
This item is made of durable alloy steel, and its weight can exceed 300 kilograms, especially if we're talking about about a stationary blacksmith anvil.
It must be stable and durable, as it bears significant loads. on the anvil results in a smooth, clear sound. A dull ringing indicates the presence of cracks or voids in the instrument.
As noted earlier, there are one-horned and two-horned models. Why does the anvil have this shape? The point is this: the horn allows you to make bends with the necessary curvature, and the flat surface serves to do the main work.
Anvil mounting diagram.
The main elements of the device include:
- shank;
- recess for forming holes;
- holes for installing tools and other forging equipment on the anvil;
- face;
- shoe;
- platform for cutting metal.
The protrusion on the side of the instrument is called a horn. Its shape varies depending on its purpose. In one-horned models it is cone-shaped. Used in forming metal bends and rolling out rounded parts.
The second horn is used in bending products at angles less than normal and is made in the shape of a truncated cone.
A face is a flat surface. It is on it that the main operations are performed.
The classic type of anvil always has holes. One of them is square - used as a tool holder, for example, a hammer. It is usually located at the end of the device. The second is round, fixes the wire when curling it, and is located near the horn.
The anvil should absorb the impulse from a blow to the front part. For these purposes, the device is installed on a durable wooden or sand cushion.
It is important that the face is positioned strictly horizontally. This will allow you to do the work with the highest quality.
Many people are interested in the question of how to set the anvil in height. The height of the anvil from the floor is correct if the hammer strikes the casing horizontally. In addition, it is important that the blacksmith does not have to make additional efforts to adjust the blow, bend down or lift the tool too high.
Types and types of anvils
Types of anvils, their shape and weight can vary significantly.
They are divided into several categories according to the above criteria, namely:
- hornless – massive instruments with a large weight, the value of which is in the range of 96 – 210 kg;
- one-horned - have only one cone-shaped horn, their weight varies from 70 to 210 kg;
- two-horned anvil - a device weighing from 100 to 270 kg;
- single-horned cantilever;
- shperaks are mini anvils weighing up to thirty kilograms.
The choice of anvil is made based on the work that is planned to be performed. Heavier models are perfect for working with large and massive workpieces. Simple, lighter options with one horn a good choice in working with small-sized structures.
Lightweight models are suitable for small jobs at home. If you need to make any homemade product, there is no better option.
An important criterion is the type of work performed. Here you need to decide which option fits better: two-horned or one-horned model. In addition, anvils may have additional elements, for example, a vice that allows you to do work alone.
It is worth paying attention to the presence of holes used to place hammers and sledgehammers.
Shperaks, small in size and weight, are widely used in jewelry. In this area, products do not require serious impact processing, so they need an appropriate tool.
Drawing of an anvil for making it yourself.
Quite often, devices for performing jewelry work are made according to individual order. They have various functional elements necessary to solve certain problems.
Sometimes one anvil may not be enough. In large workshops, it is advisable to have two options for devices: one stationary and the other portable.
Don't forget about correct installation. The quality of work directly depends on this. Despite everything this device It is quite heavy and should be installed with due care.
Falling and tipping over - common problems arising as a result improper installation. In addition, the stand must fulfill its direct functions: in addition to securely fixing the device, it must be able to absorb hammer blows.
A wooden block is the most commonly used type of stand. Its diameter usually ranges from 500 to 600 mm. Hard woods are used. These include oak, birch, ash, etc.
The installation height is determined by the height of the master. To wooden stand did not create additional unnecessary vibrations; it was buried in a hole more than half a meter deep. The bottom of the pit is compacted with a sand lining.
It is important that the chair is installed horizontally. This parameter can be easily checked using a level.
If buying an anvil is not affordable, then it can be replaced homemade device. It can be made, for example, from a rail, channel or I-beam.
Such devices made with my own hands, will last for decades. However, you should not think that they can fully replace a real, professional instrument. Hand anvils will not produce the same quality work as production models.
In this case, it is important to understand: the factory version produced using casting technology will significantly better than homemade ones. Its design contains all the necessary components with a hardened surface.
In addition, in this model the horn has the correct shape, necessary, for example, in skillful figured forging. The factory model will last quite a long time.
Making an anvil with your own hands
The design of the anvil is quite simple. Its manufacture by hand does not require drawings, special skills or special tool and equipment. By and large, the device is monolithic device with a special shape and planes that meet certain requirements.
On this moment in specialized stores forging equipment presented quite widely. There you can choose any tool, including an anvil, from a huge assortment of varieties. So does it make sense to make this device yourself?
When answering this question, you need to decide for what tasks the tool will be used. In professional production, you should definitely choose factory model. Its advantages include compliance with all necessary standards, as well as manufacturing features using casting technology.
Such an instrument is highly hard and has horns. correct form and perfectly straight side edges.
However, the price for good model quite high, especially in the case of large-sized options. However, there is no alternative to such devices; making them by hand is definitely not possible, because the weight of a forge anvil can reach 300 kilograms.
But in homework A small, lightweight anvil is perfect. You can just do it yourself. The described option is unlikely to have a negative impact on the quality of work.
One of the arguments in favor handmade fixture is the fact that high demands are placed on anvils. For example, the edges of the device must be strictly straight and undeformed.
During constant use of the tool, quite often the edges become uneven. Of course, everything depends on the type of material used by the master in his work. Nevertheless, this defect must be eliminated. There are two ways to correct such a defect: buy a new device or repair the old one.
Naturally, repairs will cost less than purchase. It should be noted that restoring a hand-made anvil is a simpler task. So what is it a great opportunity save money once again.
Now we can safely move on to the question of how to make an anvil for forging metal? Bring any standard sizes or the drawings are meaningless. Exists a large number of various options for this equipment. Everyone can choose what suits them best.
The main goal is to understand and master manufacturing technology. The master will decide all other points himself, especially since on the Internet you can easily find various photographs of anvils and use them as a template when creating the most optimal option such a forging device.
First of all, the issue related to installation should be resolved. In the case of a stationary option, as noted earlier, a massive stump should be used. But in the case of a portable model, a metal frame welded from corners is used.
Do not forget that it needs to be resistant to serious shock loads. This problem is solved by installing additional ribs in the frame, providing increased rigidity.
Although, of course, there are other methods to strengthen the structure. It all depends on the ingenuity of the master and his preferences.
If the base for the anvil is a stump, then it should be tightened with metal rings. Simply burying part of the base of a tree in the ground is not the most good idea. Even in case correct processing antiseptics, over time it will begin to break down.
Suitable for use as a base metal barrel, placed in a hole. Sand should first be poured into the barrel. The amount of sand depends on the preference of the blacksmith. As for the wood, it is selected from strong species. Which has already been mentioned earlier.
Installation of the device on the base is implemented in several ways. The most reliable option is fastening using metal brackets. They must be secured between the side surfaces of the hemp and the tool.
A similar installation method can be implemented using fittings. It must be bent into an “G” shape and welded to the base. Then, when the device is installed on the stump, the reinforcement is driven into its sides. As a result, any possibility of the device falling on your feet is eliminated.
This type of fastening will be very effective. The forging device will be securely connected to the base and will not lose grip even after a long period of use.
The second option is simpler. It consists in drilling holes in the sole. Bolts are subsequently inserted into them and screwed directly into the stump. Disadvantage this method is the loosening of the instrument after impacts. To avoid having to tighten the bolts from time to time, it is better to use staples.
According to industrial technology Forging anvils are made of 35L alloy steel. IN living conditions The anvil is usually made from a rail or channel. One of the sides of the selected material will be used as a base.
Homemade anvils - 5 photos.
A handmade rail anvil will last a very long time. It is perfect for almost any household needs or a small workshop.
It is worth noting one nuance; making such a forging tool from a channel is not the best the best option. On the one hand, it is simpler and more convenient to process. However, its strength characteristics are not high. As a result, the service life of the device will be short.
You can make a horn from an elongated part of the rail, treating it accordingly. However, you will have to spend not only a lot of effort, but also Supplies, for example, angle grinder discs. Much easier this problem can be solved by welding this part to an already ready-made tool. Don't forget about the insert that is welded.
Thus, it can be noted that the most the best material manufacturing is the rail. The characteristics of this material meet all the requirements, and it is quite cheap, perhaps the craftsman even already has it in his household.
Replacement for a full-fledged factory device manual option will not, but in case of small volumes of work it will become excellent choice. It is important that during manufacturing no special skills, specialized tools or any drawings are needed.
Materials you will need:
- a piece of rail up to three hundred millimeters long;
- profile pipe;
- stump.
The necessary tools are a grinder and welding, depending on the type of structure.
Finally, after all the manufacturing work has been completed, the instrument can be given a nice final look through painting.
As you can see, to cope with the manufacture of such a simple, but very important tool within the power of every person. This does not require the use of specialized equipment and does not require special skills. In addition, the materials used to create such a device are not so difficult to obtain.
The only problem may be the processing of the rail, in particular its grinding. The material from which it is made is highly durable, so you will have to spend a lot of disks on processing.
However, the result is worth it, because the end result is a reliable and durable anvil made by yourself. She, without any doubt, can become the pride of the workshop.
Bottom line
The blacksmith's anvil is one of the most important and indispensable tools in the workshop of a true professional. It allows you to forge metal, give it the required shape, perform hardening and other technological operations.
Nevertheless, for home needs it is not necessary to buy an expensive factory model, because you can make it from a rail with your own hands.
Here's how I made a small DIY tabletop anvil for my workshop. Below are drawings and instructions on how to make an anvil.
The homemade anvil was made from a piece of railroad tracks. Without log base, the anvil weighs about 4.5 kg. I plan to use it for tapping hot and cold parts, installing gaskets, stamping leather, and any other kind of light beating or flattening I may want to do.
Step 1: Find a piece of rail
To make an anvil like mine, you will need a small piece of rail. I got my piece, which is about 23cm long, from a blacksmith who teaches lessons in the area where I live.
Also, you can go to eBay at any time - they usually have ready-made anvils, so you can just buy one of them. However, I prefer to spend a little more time, money and effort making my own things as I really enjoy the process of creating.
So, the first step is to ask, search online as well as your local scrap metal dealer and legally purchase some scrap iron.
Step 2: Required Tools
I used angular grinding machine for cutting and shaping the rail. I have a Makita tool set that was fairly inexpensive when I bought it, but still works great today.
To remove large pieces of material I used a 1mm diameter cutting wheel. I used up two of them during the making process.
For light material removal and general shaping I used a 40 grit disc. I also spent two disks.
To smooth the top of the rail anvil, I used a 40 grit corner/edge sanding and polishing pad, which is not actually tapered (see 2nd photo above). Its flatness is necessary to achieve an acceptably flat surface (this is detailed in step 4).
Other tools and materials used in the project:
- Electric drill with paint and rust removal brush and wire wheel
- Orbital sander with sanding discs 100 - 220 grit
- Wet/dry hand sandpaper 320, 400, 800, 1000 grit
For fun I sanded and polished my little anvil to mirror shine. This was definitely not necessary as it immediately began to show marks upon use. But it was a fun experience and I learned a lot by going through the finishing process.
Step 3: Leveling the Top, Part 1: Removing the Dips
There was some pretty deep rust on the top surface of my rail.
Rails like these tend to be slightly convex across the entire width, and I wanted my little anvil to be flat. However, for this first step we are only concerned with removing rust and any other defects.
I started with a 40 grit disc and carefully removed small amounts of material until all the pitting was gone.
The trick with this and the next step is to stop early and not end up removing more material than necessary.
Always wear appropriate protective equipment: eye protection, ear protection, lung protection.
Step 4: Leveling the Top, Part 2: Hand Finishing
For this step I switched to a flat sanding disc.
To smooth out top part rail and remove the small ripples left from the previous step (as well as any remaining bumps), you need to make smooth, complete passes with light and constant pressure so that the grinding disc is perfectly level with the top of the rail.
If you move evenly, you will end up with a very flat and smooth surface. I advise you to try to find a work rhythm that suits you. Each pass must be complete from one end of the rail to the other. However, remember that you are not chamfering the ends of the rails and you don't want any unwanted slopes in the surface.
There is no need to press hard as the weight of the tool is all you need.
To determine the correct speed for each pass, check the resulting swirl marks on the metal. Ideally, you should see a fairly narrow, mechanical-looking swirl pattern.
Step 5: Making the Horn
I wanted my tabletop anvil to have a horn that would allow it to form basic curves.
I outlined the shape I wanted and used a 1mm cutting wheel on the sander to cut the wedge shape as shown in the picture. Each side took about 20 minutes.
Step 6: Shape the Anvil
The size of this notch is determined by the radius of action of the sander. I made two cuts on each side of the rail and even then the full cut could not be completed.
However, the still connected area was small enough that I could knock the piece off with a quick hammer blow (see last photo).
Step 7: Refining the horn, etc.
To refine the shape of the horn and the cutout underneath, I switched back to the 40 grit disc.
I carefully drew lines on the antler with a marker to mark the areas that needed to be removed. They were ground down in sections, similar to how it was done in step 4.
I worked with the shape of the horn until I was happy with it.
Step 8: Remove Rust
Using a wire wheel on a drill I removed all the rust. There are several ways to do this, but I decided to do it quickly using a wire wheel.
Step 9: Sanding
To begin the process of finishing the metal to a shine, I took to the abrasive disc. I used it to remove all the marks left by the sanding discs.
Then I switched to orbital grinding machine, sanding all shiny surfaces, raising the grit from 100 to 220.
Same as sanding wood projects, the goal is to remove all traces of previous graining.
When all you see are new marks from the current grit, it's time to move on to the next one.
For the hard to reach cutout under the horn, I used my variable speed Dremel with small sanding discs. He did a great job, although it was a little tiring. I used about 10 discs of each grit.
Note on orbital sander discs: I started this step using fairly typical aluminum oxide discs. sandpaper(which I've been fine with in all my woodworking projects) but they wore out almost immediately on the metal. Then I switched to Diablo brand wheels, which are made from a “ceramic compound” and the difference was amazing. The discs lasted much longer and were significantly more efficient.
Step 10: Wet Sanding
After all the shiny surfaces were dry sanded to 320, I switched to wet hand sanding using 400, 800, and then 1000 grit.
At this point, the workpiece began to look quite beautiful!
Step 11: Polishing and Waxing
I didn't have any fancy polishing compounds, so I just used what I had. My polish seemed to be working fine as it turned black when I rubbed it on.
After a series of rubbing and polishing I did the same with the paste wax.
Step 12: Notching the Bolts
To be able to secure the anvil, I machined a notch on each side of the bottom plate.
I made the notches using an angle grinder with a 3mm grinding disc. At the same time, for each recess I ground three discs to achieve a recess about 0.6 cm long.
In practice economic works Often it is necessary to resort to such operations as flattening part of the rod, or bending it to a certain angle. For these purposes, an anvil is needed. Does not amount to special labor make it yourself, and in a convenient shape and size, and therefore your own tool is always more convenient.
Typical design
For extended functionality, this blacksmith tool must consist of the following parts:
- Faces. It is a flat surface in the center where you can process flat, wide workpieces. Often performed on the left or right side of the face blind hole for making cavities and holes, as well as for fixing a part of the workpiece, the opposite end of which must be bent.
- The horn is a cone-shaped process that is adjacent to one of the ends of the anvil. Designed for plastic rolling or rolling of strip metal into a body of rotation. Ideally, the anvil is equipped with two horns, then the second (sometimes called the tail) is made in the shape of a pyramid, and is used to obtain spatial bodies of more complex shapes.
- Paws - four supporting protrusions in the lower part of the body, with which the tool rests on the workbench. If the anvil is assumed to be stationary, then through holes are made in the paws for fastening.
- Rim - a rectangular or square area of the face, which is located closer to the horn, and is used for crimping sheet metal products.
In the most simple version execution of the anvil, the rim and/or tail, as well as holes in the paws, may be missing.
What is better to make it from?
First of all, you need to decide on the location of the anvil. If reliable workbench is missing, then as a support, you can use a strong wide stump (oak - perfect solution: This wood is strong in compression and ideally dampens vibrations that occur during the forging process). In this case, the diameter of the stump, freed from bark and surface defects, will determine the size of the anvil, in particular its length. It should not be less than 200 mm.
If there is no stump, you can use a high (not lower than 100 mm) wooden shoe, which is rigidly mounted on the end of a barrel filled with sand. The barrel must be buried halfway into the ground.
As a blank for the anvil, it is most advisable to take a suitable piece of a decommissioned crane rail KR-120 or (which is better) KR-140. Unlike railway rail This option provides the following advantages:
- For the production of crane rails, a stronger metal is used in accordance with GOST 4121. This is high-carbon steel grade “steel 63”, which is characterized by a high manganese content and has a standard strength of at least 730 MPa, with a head hardness of 212 HB;
- The neck of the crane rails is wider, which will increase the stability of the anvil during forging work;
- The profile of the crane rails provides a smoother transition from the neck to the head, which prevents the occurrence of stress concentrators in the tool.
The only drawback of crane rails is that there are no mounting holes, and you will have to do them yourself.
How to make
The mass of the anvil must be at least 10 times greater than the mass of the hammer, otherwise unnecessary vibrations occur during forging, reducing the convenience of making deforming transitions. In order to increase the durability of its use, a do-it-yourself rail anvil should not have connecting parts, and therefore is made from whole piece rail, taking into account the length of the horn (or horn and tail).
Work on obtaining a one-horned anvil is carried out in the following sequence:
- A horn is being made. To do this, one of the ends of the workpiece is sequentially peeled to cutting machine or “grinder” in order to obtain a sharp conical part. The final finishing is done with a file; however, for safety reasons, the top of the horn should be slightly rounded. Grinding the horn is mandatory: this will not only subsequently increase the accuracy of forging operations, but will also give the structure a marketable appearance (for example, a souvenir from a rail - an anvil, and a functioning one - will be beautiful and an original gift home craftsman).
- Volumes of metal are cut out from both sides of the workpiece in the middle part of the neck, and thus the anvil legs are formed. Four mounting holes are drilled in the legs for bolts or self-tapping screws (for a fixed connection) with a diameter of M16.
- The tool is mounted on a stump/shoe, after which the face is ground “flat” and a blind hole is drilled in it. If the anvil is used frequently, it is worth installing a thick (at least 10 mm) plate made of tool steel grade U12 or even X12M over the face. You can mill grooves like “ dovetail", so that it is easily removable. It is convenient to make 1-2 through holes of different diameters there.
- To make a rim, you must use cutting wheel three flat grooves on the face with a depth of at least 10 mm. The opposite ends of the rim must be strictly parallel to each other. The width of the rim is determined locally, but usually does not exceed 25…40 mm. The prepared surfaces are polished.
The homemade anvil is ready. All that remains is to maintain it in working condition, and during long breaks between regular forging works, lubricate the working surfaces with a conservation thick lubricant.
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Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
Even without having practical experience, you can make an anvil with your own hands. To do this, just follow our step-by-step instructions.
Anyone can make an anvil from a rail." House master» using available tools. Let’s say right away that it is impossible to compare a self-made anvil with a full-fledged analogue. However, it is perfect for tapping small workpieces, bending a rod at a certain angle or flattening it, as well as similar small household work.
List of required tools and materials
The anvil is made by hand from the following materials and tools:
- A piece of rail. The exact length depends on your preference. However, it is not recommended to take a piece less than 30 centimeters long;
- A ruler and a marker capable of marking metal (you can also use a stroke);
- Hammer, level and file for metal;
- Lamp or lantern;
- Grinder and grinder.
How to make an anvil with your own hands using all this? According to the following instructions.
Important! Any decommissioned crane rail can do. But if possible, use KR-140. It is made from more durable metal according to GOST 4121 and has a number design advantages. For example, a wider neck, which will provide the anvil with greater stability during further forging work. But keep in mind that the KR-140 does not have holes; you will have to make them yourself.
Step-by-step instructions for making an anvil from a rail
Prepare the work site. Place a piece of rail on the table, mark it with a marker and ruler as follows:
- Measure 40% of the total length of the rails, draw a line;
- Measure half the width of the rail, make a mark;
- Connect the lines and the mark so that you form a triangle or the so-called “anvil horn” on the rail site.
If you still have questions about the correct marking of the workpiece, look at the photos and videos on our website.
Secure the future forging anvil in a metal vice. Turn on the grinder and cut the horn according to the marking lines.
Important! When working with power tools, be extremely careful. Metal vice must be securely fastened to the table surface. The work table should not be loose. To protect your own health, wear a welding mask, protective apron and gloves.
After making deep cuts with a grinder, take a hammer. It will help you speed up the process: use it to beat off the left and right edges of the metal triangle. Be prepared for the edges to be uneven - there is nothing wrong with that, we will process them later.
Take the rail out of the vice, turn it on its side so that the broken triangle is “looking” at you. Use a marker to mark lines leading from the edge of the rail to the inner hole (closest to you). Beat them off with a hammer.
Stepping back an inch from each raw “back” end, draw lines with a marker. Your task is to mark the “tail” of the anvil. Use a grinder to make cuts on the metal, then beat the metal into pieces with a hammer. The "tail" is the functional part of the tool. But since we are creating a home, and not a professional, anvil, whether to carry it out or not is only your desire.
Processing the metal surface of the anvil
Use a sanding wheel to remove any traces of rust from the metal pad. After processing, the metal surface of the future metal anvil should be smooth and even.
After using a power tool, use a hand metal file. The surface should be treated with compounds that protect the metal from rust. You can purchase them at any specialized store.
Perform final grinding of the workpiece surface. Sand the metal with a fine grit wheel again. Perform the grinding process as many times as necessary to obtain a perfectly smooth, horizontal surface of the anvil.
Important! To ensure the evenness of the workpiece surface, use a level. Remember that if the surface of the anvil is uneven, the parts processed on it in the future will also have defects.
In order to make sure, using a level, that the surface is really perfectly smooth and even, look at it from the side “into the light” using a lamp or a regular flashlight. If there are no glimpses of light and there are no gaps between the level and the surface of the workpiece, the work has been successfully completed.