Instructions on how to move an outlet to another location: detailed step-by-step instructions on how to move and disguise an outlet (135 photos and videos). How to move an outlet with your own hands in an apartment - detailed instructions How to raise an outlet a little higher than the old one

Moving the outlet yourself may require repairs after purchase. new technology or if desired, make an arrangement electrical connectors more convenient. At independent execution For this task, it is important to strictly adhere to the rules for carrying out electrical work: ignoring the rules can lead to an accident or an accident.

Work begins with determining the future location of the outlets and drawing up a diagram. After this, sections of the wall are checked for hidden wiring– if you skip this step and start laying the cable along a section along which wiring already runs, an emergency situation may arise.

Important! In accordance with the requirements of NBP and GOST, cables can only be laid along horizontal and vertical lines; the diagonal laying method cannot be used. When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account that a minimum of 20 cm is left between the ceiling line and the cable.

To determine whether the selected section of the wall is free, study the design or wiring diagram in the apartment - the document can be requested from an electrician on staff management company Houses.

If you cannot find a plan, you can invite a specialist to help determine the location of hidden wiring.

Materials and tools

Transfer of sockets and switches is carried out using:

bit;
screwdriver;
drill bit d 6 mm;
pliers;
hammer.

You will also need to stock up on the following materials:

dowel clamps 5-10 mm;
distribution and installation boxes;
building plaster;
electrical tape 2 cm wide.

Work is carried out with gloves.

Transfer options

There are three ways to install a socket in another location on the wall:

cable extension;
using a loop;
drawing a new line.

Creating a new line

Moving sockets to panel house creation of a new line

Pulling a separate wire from the junction box is the safest and most reliable way to move outlets. It will require more time and money than others, but it is recommended to use it. Thanks to this method, installing a new point is possible on any wall of the room.

Operating procedure

Step-by-step guide to moving sockets using this method:

The electricity in the apartment is turned off.
Opening up junction box, from which the cable goes to the socket being removed, disconnect the wire.
The old socket and wiring are removed.
The groove in the wall along which the dismantled line ran is filled with concrete mortar.
According to the drawn up diagram, a new groove is laid. To do this, marks are first made on the wall, and then a hole is made with a puncher. The size of the groove depends on the diameter of the cable - it should allow a layer to be placed on the new wiring finishing material minimum 1.5 cm.
The cable is laid in the recess made.
At the site of the future socket, a puncher is used to make a socket with a diameter of 6 cm and a depth of 5 cm, which will be used to install the mounting box.
The inner surfaces of the made recess are coated with plaster, and the box is inserted. Wait until the solution hardens.
To fix the cable, dowel clamps are installed in the groove, placing them at a distance of 50 cm.
Lay the cable and bring its end into the junction box. It is connected to a new cable. To do this, do not twist the cores (this can lead to short circuit), and soldering. The top is wrapped with electrical tape.
The cable is pulled to the new mounting box and fixed there. To ensure a reliable connection between the wire and the connectors, the wires are wrapped around the installation bolt.
The groove along which the new wiring is laid is filled with construction plaster.

Cable extension

Moving a socket with your own hands by extending the cable

This method is most often used when the need to move the outlet arose after renovations were carried out in the room.

You will need to run the wires through the socket of the old outlet. The cable that will be used should ideally be identical to the old one.

Technology:

The apartment is cut off from power.
Using an indicator screwdriver, make sure that there is no current at the terminals.
Remove the cover from the old outlet and pull the box out of the recess.
Using a hammer drill, a groove is laid from the socket to the installation site of the new socket.
Extend the wires by connecting the cores in the standard way. The connection point is isolated. It is recommended to place the cable in a heat-shrinkable tube for greater reliability.
A distribution box is mounted in the hole where the socket was previously located, and the connected wires are placed in it.
Install the socket box, further actions are similar to what needs to be done when creating a new line.

Using a loop

This method is considered the least safe: its essence is that a cable is laid from an existing point to the location of a new outlet. In this case, the first one remains in place, another one simply appears.

Moving sockets in an apartment using a cable

Main danger This method is that the load on the cable increases, and simultaneous use of both points can lead to short circuits and other problems. Also, the cable, according to the rules of electrical installations, is an unreliable means and its use is not recommended.

Despite this, it is often used: a cable is the most inexpensive method, which, moreover, allows you to save a second outlet.

Wire connection methods

The most common method of connecting wiring to an outlet is twisting the wires.

The order of work is as follows:

About 3 cm of insulation is removed from each wire. Using fine-grained sandpaper strip the veins.
Afterwards, the prepared ends are twisted, making sure that the integrity of the veins is not compromised and that no fractures form on them.
The finished structure is soldered with lead-tin solder. It is advisable not to use acid fluxes, optimal choice- rosin.
The connection point is carefully insulated, after which the wires are placed in a box.

Features of connecting aluminum and copper wires

When performing this work, you cannot use the usual twisting method. The simplest way out of the situation is threaded connection. To do this, you need to bend the stripped wire strands at the ends and secure them on a galvanized steel washer.

Signs of an error at work

When moving an outlet on their own, people who do not have sufficient experience and knowledge may do something wrong.

A signal of an error is one of the following signs or a combination of them:

the socket sparks;
there is no electricity, appliances plugged into the network do not work;
when the plug is disconnected from the socket, the latter jumps out of the socket;
It heats up during and after use.

If you notice such symptoms, you should immediately stop using this point and check the entire network one by one.

Features of transferring an optical socket

Optical socket - a device used for connection fiber optic cables. It is installed when building audio and computer networks not only in office premises, but also at home.

Typically, the installation of such devices is carried out by employees of telecommunications companies, but the transfer of the optical socket can be done independently.

Such a measure may be necessary in the following situations:

during repairs;
after redevelopment or rearrangement in the apartment;
as a result of a cable break.

When creating a migration plan, you need to determine optimal place installing a new outlet, calculate which devices will be connected.

Work order:

The old socket is removed.
Guided by a previously drawn up diagram, mark the installation location of the new point.
If necessary, extend the optical cable.
The patch cord is being replaced.
Lay the cable to the installation site of the OPA. This can be done in a groove, under a baseboard, or by placing the wires in a plastic box.
Install a new optical socket on the wall.
Weld patch cords and cable. The welding area is protected with a fiber optic sleeve.
Excess cable, which may be useful later, is placed in the socket.
Connect the devices to the new OPA to check the signal level.
If the signal level is normal, proceed to sealing the grooves.

Experienced electricians recommend using the method of creating a new line to move sockets in a panel house: despite the need for gating concrete walls and the apparent complexity of the task, it is best suited for creating a point in a new location.

Sometimes there is a need to move an existing outlet, which for some reason is in the way in its place. At the same time, there are absolutely no plans to spoil the wallpaper, ditch, or carve out space for a new socket box.

There is a method that I will tell you about in this article. It consists in replacing a hidden (internal) socket with an open socket, that is, an external socket, in another place.

Moreover, any man with hands can do this on his own, in a couple of hours, thanks to my manual. Or, as it is fashionable to say now, a case ;) .

Attention! When carrying out work, you should be careful, the voltage at the connection points is 220V!

The socket is in the way - it needs to be moved

So, what do we have initially? Bedroom. The socket is at a height of about 0.9 m. There is a folding sofa near the socket. If you plug something into the socket (and this is a TV), then when you lay out the sofa, it rips out “with meat”. Sound familiar?

Naturally, there is a reasonable desire to move the outlet with your own hands to another place - closer to the TV and away from the sofa. At the same time, transfer without gating, without noise and dust.

The essence of our actions is as follows:

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We completely remove the socket from the old place;
we connect new wires to the old ones, which will go to the new outlet;
we lay new wires in a plastic cable channel;
We install a new external socket and connect it to in the right place;
We close the old installation box with the connection with a lid.

Let's get started.

Installation of cable channel

In such cases, I prefer to act from the end. We decide on a new location for installing the outlet. It should be taken into account that the length of the cable channel is 2 meters, and it is better, if possible, not to make joints, but to use a solid channel.

Then we cut the cable channel to length, attach it to the wall and mount it:

Important note regarding installation. The wall is a partition between the living room and the bedroom made of gypsum blocks about 60 mm thick. Hardness is like solid wood. Therefore, you can easily do without dowels and additional dust and noise. We use self-tapping screws with a press washer and a sharp end about 20 mm long.

By the way, due to the small thickness of the wall, it is very problematic to do internal wiring. This is another reason to install an external outlet.

Using a screwdriver helps a lot in the work and makes it beautiful, fast and enjoyable.

In order for the cable channel to fit well to the wall, you need to take care of the holes for the screws in advance. Usually they are already in the cable channel, but if not, they need to be drilled with a 4.2...4.5 mm drill.

In this case, a cable channel measuring 10x15 mm is used. This minimum size, and if there are turns with a cable bend, or a thicker cable, you should think about taking a wider cable channel.

Connecting and installing a new outdoor outlet

Please note that we are not touching the old socket yet, it is waiting in the wings to go on its final journey. Accordingly, there is no need to turn off the voltage in the floor panel yet.

In this case I use AVVG 2x2.5 cable with aluminum conductors.

We connect and install a new outdoor outlet. There are types of sockets that are more convenient to connect first and then screw to the wall; this must be taken into account and not rushed with installation.

Remember what I said about the wall? Here, too, dowels were not needed; wood screws 25 mm long worked perfectly.

Moving the outlet in the apartment to another location. Connecting and installing a new external double socket

The same view, only from the side, is given at the beginning of the article.

Of course, if there is an opportunity and the slightest need, it is better to install a double socket. Installing a double socket will solve the problem of recharging gadgets that are flooded modern apartments…

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Power connection

At this stage, measure the length and cut the cable. Be sure to leave a margin of a few centimeters on both sides. The photo above shows the stock inside the socket, I rolled it into a kind of rings.

Important note. If the apartment uses aluminum wiring, there is no need to install a new one. copper cable. I recommend using it in this case aluminum wires cross section 2.5 mm2. This way there are fewer connection problems.

Even the PUE, the Electrician's Bible, says on this matter that in old houses with aluminum wiring it is permissible to use aluminum wire when repairing electrical wiring. True, this is said “until 2001”.

Now we make the power connection in the old box. To do this, we first turn off the phase in order to work safely.

We use Vago 2273-203 terminals with paste, which are very useful in this case. If such terminals with paste are used, you can also use copper wire VVG 2x1.5. But it’s better to use AVVG 2x2.5, as in my example.

Now we lay all the wires neatly in the external outlet, cable channel and old box.

We turn on the machine at the entrance and check.

We do it beautifully

Now you need to close everything beautifully so that the client’s eye is happy.

And the client’s joy is the most important thing in our work! And when the client is happy, the electrician feels good. And in the wallet)))

Close the outdoor outlet. You may have to trim the socket body and the edge of the cable channel a little to make everything smooth and nice.

The cable channel has an ugly place near the old box, so we cover its end with a tip, which are sold in the same place as the cable channel itself.

A plug is placed on the end of the cable channel, and a cover is placed on the distribution box.

The wall and the box at the junction are slightly trimmed so that the wire fits freely into the box and the plug fits easily onto the cable channel.

That's it, put on the lid and you're done!

Done – the socket has been moved! On the left you can see a table on which there is a TV.

Round lid that closes old box– standard, and screwed with self-tapping screws with a press washer about 45 mm long into the bottom of the box.

My opinion on the installation of sockets is also stated, in particular, here:

In the same way, you can move not only the socket, but also the switch!

Kitchen owners often encounter connection problems household appliances. Either there is no way to connect the refrigerator without an extension cord, or there is nowhere to put the electric kettle. This is due to the fact that there are only one or two sockets in old apartments, and they are installed anywhere and anyhow - who could have predicted such a scale of scientific and technological progress. Let's figure out how to make sockets in the kitchen, taking into account the use of specific equipment, the arrangement of the proposed furniture, as well as a number of other issues.

Where to begin?

The final decision on the choice of location for installing sockets should be made only after determining the configuration kitchen set. It is necessary to take into account all cases, shelves, drawers, type of hood, etc. All this is done in order to place the outlet in the most convenient place from the point of view of operation.

To begin with, think about what kind of apron you will have in the kitchen - for example, panel or tile? This determines whether there will be a need to install mounting boxes.

If the furniture is made to order, you will probably have a diagram of the future set on hand, which will significantly simplify the further design process.

If you are using an old headset, you will need to make a small sketch and enter the actual dimensions into it.

Once you have the diagram in hand, you can proceed to calculating the required number of sockets.

Often a separate point is designed for hob, oven, refrigerator, microwave and extractor hood. Optionally, additional blocks are placed under the mixer, Electric kettle, blender, etc.

Advice! It is quite acceptable to use, which can be found on the Internet. The only thing that is required is to make minor adjustments regarding the connection to stationary electrical devices.

Hob and oven

Even at the stage of rough work, the wiring diagram must be correctly drawn up, and all the nuances of consumer power must be taken into account.

Usually connection hob and ovens are done separately. This is due to technical characteristics each device. A wire with a cross-section of 6 squares is usually installed under the hob. It is designed for loads up to 6–7 kW, and often no socket or junction box is installed.

The oven can easily get by with a stationary 16A household socket. It can withstand up to 3.5 kW load and is powered by a 2.5 square wire.

If the oven is installed under the panel, the sockets are installed at a height of 150–180 mm from the floor surface, next to each other. This is explained by the fact that at this level there is usually drawer“under frying pans” and other utensils, by removing which you can provide access to the network and cables.

Often, socket blocks are placed behind an adjacent housing, 150–250 mm from it. Recommended height for their placement: within 200–800 mm from the floor.

When an oven is supposed to be built into a column, it is necessary to design a corresponding outlet for it at chest level. It is allowed to install the socket block 150–250 mm above or below the oven. Then the power supply to the plate can be located at a height of 650–800 mm due to the absence of the need to maintain the connection points.

When we're talking about about a stand-alone electric stove, then it is advisable to place the socket on the left or right side, behind the adjacent housing. The height of its location can vary from 150 to 800 mm.

Fridge

Taking into account the short length of the cord for a built-in refrigerator and the manufacturers' recommendations, it is obvious that the outlet should be somewhere nearby. The use of extension cords and temporary carriers is not permitted.

For obvious reasons, it is advisable to choose the location of the power supply on the side of the household device. Ideally, it should be behind the adjacent cabinet, at a height of 150–800 mm from the floor and no more than 250 mm from the refrigerator itself.

Connecting a free-standing refrigerator is possible for its back wall. Ideally, there should be a distance of no more than 100 mm from the edge of the socket to ensure free access to it.

Attention! Some models of refrigeration devices are manufactured with separate power supply to the main compartment and freezer. In this case, you should add another outlet. Usually a wire of 2.5 squares and 16A fittings intended for equipment up to 3.5 kW of power are laid under it.

Washing machine and dishwasher

Usually the “dishwasher” is placed near kitchen sink- accordingly, the socket for this equipment should be made in one of the adjacent lower cabinets.

Electricity is discharged at a height of 150–500 mm from the floor and at a distance of 150–200 mm from the adjacent kitchen building.

The error is the device of the socket immediately behind dishwasher. This is fraught with the fact that the built-in equipment will subsequently not be able to fit in depth into the niche intended for it.

Important! The socket must be installed at least 500 mm from the water supply.

Microwave

The installation is considered normal microwave oven at user eye level. Regarding the built-in device, it is better to install the corresponding socket below the cabinet where the microwave will be installed, at a height of 150–800 mm from the floor.

If you plan to permanently install the stove on a countertop, there should be a 16A socket nearby, up to 3.5 kW, with a 2.5 square meter wire.

Hood

Based on the type and model of the hood that you plan to use, a separate electrical outlet is selected or a mounting box is installed for the fittings.

Most devices are covered by kitchen cabinets, so the outlet can be placed inside them, on the left or right side of the ventilation duct. This is usually a height of about 1700–1900 mm from the floor. It is allowed to install a socket above the cabinets - 2400–2600 mm.

Open hoods are often connected directly, so the power wires can be brought out even after ventilation pipe. It should be noted that manufacturers of household appliances stipulate this point in the relevant instructions.

Regardless of the chosen hood, for its operation it is enough to supply a 2.5 square wire and, if necessary, install a regular 16A, 3.5 kW socket.

Working surface

How to properly remove power, and where is the best place to do it for small household appliances? Finding the answer to this question is a serious challenge for many.

Here it is necessary to take into account the possibility of simultaneously connecting the necessary kitchen appliances. For example, it is quite possible that you will need to turn on a kettle, toaster, coffee machine and mixer in one zone, so it is advisable to remove the block of 4 sockets in the appropriate place.

Naturally, it is impossible to provide for everything, so it is recommended to additionally provide for a reserve.

As practice shows, there are never too many sockets. It is considered normal to place blocks at 3–4 points at intervals of 1000–1200 mm along the entire length of the work area table top.

Please note that, for safety reasons, it is prohibited to install sockets closer than 500 mm from the riser gas pipe and wet areas, including the sink mixer.

In relation to the tabletop, electrical fittings should be placed at a height of at least 100–150 mm, which is 900–950 mm from the floor level. The final dimensions are determined taking into account the selected tile - so that the blocks fall on its center. If the electrical installation has started, but there are no tiles, it’s enough to just separate the wires with a reserve, and you’ll be closer to the beginning tiling works install socket boxes.

How to install it yourself?

Deal with correct gasket wires and installation of junction boxes is easy. Basic operations are carried out even before finishing premises.

Having decided on the consumers and locations for installing the sockets, they move on to marking them on the walls.
The center is outlined, after which a hole 40–60 mm deep is made with a 63 mm crown for the “socket box”. If you don’t have a special tool, you can get by with a chisel and a hammer. Many professional electricians prefer to work with a grinder and a hammer drill.
Then you can proceed to securing the mounting box with the wire passed into it. Usually fixation is done by building gypsum or plaster mixture. It is permissible to use special glue.
After “cementing”, all voids and cracks around the perimeter of the box are sealed with plaster.

The length of the protruding wire must be at least 150 mm so that when connecting, you can easily install a socket or switch.

How to move a socket?

Sometimes, during the renovation process, it is necessary to make changes to the design of the arrangement of furniture and household appliances and, as a result, adjust the placement of sockets. It’s good if it is possible to hire people who will do everything quickly and without your participation. And if not?

In practice, moving sockets is not so labor-intensive and is a completely realistic process that can be done with your own hands. The most difficult thing to do is to make a recess for installing a new mounting box.

If we are talking about brick or plasterboard wall- there will be no problems with this. In the first case, you can get by with a chisel, drill and hammer, in the second - a crown or knife.

It is most difficult to move sockets in apartments or houses with reinforced concrete walls. In such situations it may be necessary special tool. After the “socket box” is in place, it is enough to make a recess in the plaster (if any) to the thickness of the wire, or simply attach it to the wall surface using ties or clamps.

Power must be “pulled” from a nearby outlet. It is worth noting that the old “point” does not have to be preserved. It is possible to use a cable connection, which is possible using the simplest modern sockets.

If you do not plan to install fittings, you will need to use classic “terminal blocks”, the selection of which must be made taking into account the size of the wire cross-section. Thus, you can “multiply” and make required amount power points, move them to the required location.

Transfer without scoring

The corresponding task can be assigned to a completed repair. Naturally, in order to move one socket and install it in the right place, there is absolutely no reason to “drill” the walls, re-plaster them and perform a fine finish.

Many homeowners, not understanding how to add a new outlet after renovation, are ready to pay incredible amounts of money in order to realize their idea. In reality, the problem is not as terrible as it might seem at first glance.

If the new “point” is out of sight, then laying an additional wire from another “invisible” socket (for example, behind the cabinets of a kitchen set), with a connection with “terminal blocks” or crimp sleeves, is quite suitable.

Instead of a built-in socket, you can purchase a special remote insulated analogue. The method is much better, more reliable and safer than using stationary extension cords.

Installing an additional socket or moving an existing socket in visible places is somewhat more difficult. The specifics for installing the wire are similar to those described above. The only difference is that you will need to additionally install a decorative cable channel.

Fortunately for many, today similar products are available for sale in different color options so that it will be relatively easy to select a design for existing interior. The cable channel is fixed to the wall using dowels and screws. Additionally, you will need a hammer drill and a 6 mm drill.

Installation of electrical accessories

Once all electrical installations and Finishing work, you can begin installing electrical fittings. Note that, subject to a certain sequence and safety precautions, almost any person can cope with the task.

Important! All operations related to stripping wires, connecting the socket, and installing it must be performed only after the network has been de-energized.

Brief sequence of steps for installing accessories:

The insulation is removed from the end of the wire cores at a distance of 10–15 mm from the edge (in the case of a multi-wire cable, all wires must be twisted together and crimped with a sleeve).
The ends of the wires (usually there are three, including the phase wire, the neutral wire and the ground wire) are inserted into the corresponding screw or spring terminals.
The quality of contact is checked.
Excess wire is placed inside the “socket box”.
The socket is pressed tightly against the wall and fixed to the mounting box using spacers with a screw tightening.
The decorative strip is installed and secured with a screw.

In the case of blocks with 2, 3, 4 or more sockets, the sequence is similar, with the exception that the metal mounting frames must be fitted end-to-end and at one level. Ideally, for stripping wires, you can find the appropriate tool - a stripper, which allows you to safely and efficiently remove the insulation. Multiwire cables are crimped using sleeves and crimping pliers.

Attention! Before starting electrical installation work, you must make sure that there is no voltage on the phase wire. This can be done using a simple indicator screwdriver.

You should not skimp on sockets - you should always purchase options with grounding (provided that the electrical wiring in the apartment provides for this). At least in some dangerous situations it could save someone's life.

After installing the socket, you need to use a tester to check not only the presence of a phase, but also a neutral with grounding. This is done simply, by alternately checking the “phase + zero” and “phase + ground” pairs with the device. In both cases, the voltage should be in the range of 220–240 volts. If this is not the case, you need to look for and fix the problem.

What if the sockets don't work?

Electrics, as you know, is the science of contacts. If one of the outlets does not work, there is probably a loose or missing connection somewhere.

The first thing to start with is to make sure that the introductory and group (if any) machine on the dashboard is turned on. Then you need to check with the indicator the presence of a phase, then zero. It’s clear that you can’t do this without the simplest electrician’s tool.

Important! Without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is better to entrust this work to a qualified specialist.

Having checked and made sure that there is no problem at this stage, it is necessary to “ring” a specific wire from the panel to the junction box. A similar procedure is done from the box to the “socket box”.
If everything is in order here, then the only thing that remains is a weak contact in the socket itself. It is necessary to tighten the corresponding clamps or try to push the core harder into the self-clamping terminal.

If the outlet stops working, you need to figure out the background - which consumers were turned on, whether the machine worked, how long ago this situation appeared, etc.

Repairing an outlet in an old house, a Khrushchev-era building, can be much more difficult. The fact is that previously the wiring was designed according to Soviet GOSTs. The schemes are standard, however, for such a long time from the start of construction electric installation work connection or troubleshooting could be carried out by different specialists, including from the housing office, so it can sometimes be very difficult to sort out the numerous twists.

In addition, aluminum wires, which were widely used at that time, also add to the problems. Sometimes it’s easier to “throw” a wire “over” than to look for it in mounting boxes. Ideally, it is best to completely replace the wiring.

We hope that after reading this material you understand how to design sockets in the kitchen, what you need to pay attention to, and what possible nuances with the placement of electrical “points”. In some cases, you have to move the outlet to another location, connect devices that were not previously “participated” in the project. Solving all the issues that have arisen is generally not difficult, just like installing electrical fittings after completing all construction, electrical installation and finishing work.

Relocating an outlet may be necessary for many reasons: for more comfortable use of electrical appliances, when rearranging furniture in the interior, etc. The job of changing their location can be carried out not only by a master who understands electrics, but also by any person who has no experience.

To understand how to move an outlet in an apartment, you just need to carefully read the instructions for this type of work, choose the most appropriate transfer method in each case, understand all the nuances of the process, prepare necessary tools and consumables.

After completing the preparatory steps, you can safely begin portable work.

Primary requirements

One of the important points when answering the question: “How to move the outlet correctly?” will be a listing of the basic requirements for the process of working with electrical network elements.

The main rule remains strict adherence to safety regulations, but you need to know about other, additional standards:

installation of a household electrical outlet is possible using a power cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm^2 or more;
Laying wires is only permissible vertically or horizontally; diagonal laying of cables is strictly prohibited. Horizontal routes are located at a distance of at least 20 centimeters from the ceiling and 10 from the eaves, the vertical direction of the cable must pass at least 10 cm from the doors, window openings, as well as the corners of the room;
power supplies are located from the level flooring at a distance of 50-80 centimeters, it is forbidden to install them in close proximity to heating radiators and gas stoves, the distance between them should be more than half a meter;
existing branches of the electrical wire and its connections must be located in specially designed boxes or in housings of electrical devices.

Before starting work, you need to find the distribution box that supplies the “old point”. It is very important to determine what material (copper, aluminum) the terminals of the old electrical wiring are made of.

Another tip that will greatly simplify the transfer process is to first draw up a diagram showing the most best option placement of sockets. If you do not understand how such a schematic plan should be drawn up correctly, look at the photo on how to move the socket, which will show an approximate drawing.

Transfer methods

In order to move the power point to a more convenient place for its use, there are various ways moving sockets.

We will try to analyze the two most popular of them, describe the advantages and disadvantages of each method, so that it will be easier for you to choose the most preferable method for yourself.

Wire extension

This method involves extending the power line using a new groove. You can extend the wire in several ways, everything will depend on the metal of the cores, their cross-section, and the nominal number of conductors.

Often the connection is made using:

terminal blocks;
spring terminals;
plastic caps;
twisting and soldering.

Step-by-step instructions on how to move an outlet using this method will be as follows:

turn off the power to the outlet group;
remove decorative cover, carefully pull the housing out of the groove in the wall;
mark the line along which the wall will be perforated;
using a hammer drill, make a groove to the new connection point;
lengthen the profile by fastening the cores using any of the methods described above;
set up a junction box in the old groove, lay a section of wire containing the fastener in it;
install a socket box and connect the socket to the power supply.

Using this sequence of actions, you can easily move the power point to another location. Do not forget that it is very important to connect a cable of similar material and the appropriate cross-section to the old wire.

Creating a loop

This method is safer than the previous one; it does not simply involve moving the outlet higher or lower, but installing a new outlet next to the old power source.

Its main advantage is the ability to create a new food point while maintaining the old one.

In order to carry out work using this method, you will need to purchase a cable of the appropriate cross-section and a socket box. Regarding tools, pliers, a hammer drill, an indicator screwdriver, a hammer, and a regular flat-head screwdriver are useful for installation.

Using this method will answer the question that worries many: “How to move a socket without gating?” Because often, when starting such a small procedure, the owners of the house do not want to start redecorating, necessary for sealing new holes in the wall.

It is the use of the loop method that will allow you to move the power source without gating the walls, but simply by laying the wires open method using cable channels.

The sequence of actions of the work being carried out is as follows:

turn off the power to the outlet from which you plan to output the new point;
using an indicator screwdriver, make sure that there is no current at the terminals;
prepare a place for a new outlet, create a hole in the wall for a socket box;
fix the new socket box;
measure desired length cable for powering the created point;
connect the wire to the terminals of the old and new device;
install the decorative cover and check the functionality of the power source;
hide the wire in the cable channel.

This method will also allow you to hide the laid cable, but in this case it is necessary to groove the walls using a hammer drill and, upon completion of the work, carry out interior decoration parts of the wall in the room.

There is nothing difficult in moving sockets from one place to another. The main thing is to study as much as possible more information By this issue, carefully understand the main stages of the process, adhere to the tips and recommendations given in this article, and strictly follow the safety rules. Then the success of your endeavors will be guaranteed.

While designing an apartment, the home master performs various works around the house. Quite often, rearranging furniture creates inconvenience in using household electrical appliances. Sockets and switches are in hard to reach places. It becomes inconvenient to get to them. There is a need for transfer.

This kind of work falls into the dusty and dirty category. Moreover, it is dangerous. Electrical current, if handled incorrectly, can cause serious harm to the body.

Therefore, moving an outlet or switch should be carried out by a trained electrician or home handyman who is well aware of safety rules and has the necessary practical skills.

The apartment owner needs to prepare, decide organizational and technical issues.

How to prepare to move an outlet

Technical issues of moving the socket

After planning the work, the home craftsman collects the tools necessary to place wiring on or inside the walls and begins installing the wire, cable, and moving the electrical point.

Features of work in open and closed wiring

Methods for laying cables to a new outlet or switch inside walls are more labor-intensive than with outside.

Most often you will need to cut new channel for him - to make a ditch.

To prevent damage to hidden wiring with a drill when securing furniture, it is customary to place grooves only without using inclined route angles.

Tools for working in concrete

Wall chaser

It is convenient to process long lines for hidden cable routing to the socket with a professional wall chaser. Its concrete cutting discs rotate in closed space, and all the resulting dust and sand are immediately sucked out through a powerful hose construction vacuum cleaner.

This type of work produces a minimal amount construction waste. However, such a tool is quite expensive. It is used only by electricians who need to constantly process concrete walls.

Make a single groove for the cable even in concrete slab you can use:

angular circular saws - grinders;
bolt or chisel with a hammer.

Angle grinder

In this case, you will have to work hard and a lot of dust and sand will appear. Their spread around the room will be significantly limited by a stream of water directed from a hose into the furrow being cut. Smudges of the resulting dirt will have to be removed with a damp cloth.

Using an angle machine, first one groove is cut, and next to and parallel to it - a second one. To form a continuous furrow, you will need to remove concrete from the partition.

Hammer

Its chisel-shaped attachment allows you to quickly cut concrete partitions between the grooves cut by the grinder.

You can also use a concrete drill to knock out a successive chain of holes and then remove the bridges between them.

Hammer drill

It can also be used to knock out holes for grooves. Only this process will be more labor-intensive, time-consuming, and noisy. It is difficult to process strong concrete in this way. Impact drill It is better to use on walls made of brick or foam blocks.

In all cases, it is necessary to use safety glasses, a respirator, and noise-absorbing headphones. You will also have to pay attention to the neighbors, who obviously will not like the constant rumble and noise.

Changing cable length

When moving a socket or switch, most often the existing cable route will have to be shortened or lengthened. If it has been in use for a long time, then it is better to completely replace it. After all, the relocated outlet should reliably power consumers for decades.

When the old cable is long and reliable, then using it will not be difficult. The only thing that will create difficulties is the missing length. In this case you can:

replace the short piece with a whole normal one;
install in convenient location transition junction box and increase the missing length through it;
use the old outlet box to connect an additional piece of cable.

However, the third case is used as an exception. They resort to it when there is no other acceptable solution. The fact is that all connections of wires and cables will need to be inspected during operation. Access to them cannot be limited, and they usually try to disguise the old locations of sockets and switches with putty and wallpaper.

For this reason, you cannot connect the wires of different cables directly in the groove, insulate them and seal them with mortar. This is a direct path to the creation of leakage currents through the concrete of the wall, which is created when it is moistened. If either they are not installed in the housing panel or are faulty, then there is a high probability of damage electric shock.

The cutting of the cable ends and their insulation must be hidden inside the dielectric installation box. Previously, they were made of tin, which rusted over time, and a layer of corrosion easily showed through the contacted wallpaper paper.

If it is not possible to replace such a box with a new one, then it is necessary to at least separate it with a layer of putty, and instead of the lid, install a plug made of fiberboard or plasterboard.

If faults occur in the wiring, you will have to look for damage to the cable, drill into the wall, pollute the room, and spoil its design. To reduce the destructive consequences of such work, it is necessary to accurately draw up a working sketch of the wall and mark on it the coordinates of electrical points and cable routes. You will have to store this document in a safe place.

Wire connection methods

Sockets are connected to operate from different electrical consumers. and cables, it is necessary to focus on the current of the load being created, which is calculated based on the power of the electrical appliance being switched on. Naturally, if you create a small reserve, it will definitely pay off in the future.

Large currents will flow through the contacts of the socket. They will flow through the junction of the wires, which must be done reliably. At the same time, attention is paid to the fact that it is necessary to maintain the compatibility of the metals in contact to prevent electrochemical reactions from occurring at the points of contact.

For this reason, copper and aluminum cannot be connected directly. As a last resort, contact is created for them through a layer of steel alloy, which prevents the occurrence of such processes.

Stranding with welding

Previously, it was even used for aluminum wiring when connecting wires for sockets and switches.

Nowadays, twisting wires still remains a reliable method, but not all craftsmen can weld the ends due to the lack of a special welding machine.

Stranding with soldering

If the technology is followed correctly, twisting modern copper wires together will last for decades:

the insulation of the connected conductors is removed along a length of up to 8÷10 cm to ensure a sufficient contact area of the side surfaces;
the conductors are carefully stripped down to a layer of pure wire metal;
The wires are grabbed with pliers on both sides and twisted tightly. You need to be careful. Do not overtighten the permissible force, otherwise the wire will break. Practice is important in this matter;
the connection of twisted wires is soldered with solder and rosin. Acidic fluxes cannot be used: they will cause metal corrosion.

Connection with adapter screw terminals

This method is considered one of the most reliable. It has long been used even in assembly electrical circuits in critical circuits of industrial power circuits, as shown on the left side of the picture. Manufacturers are releasing new models of terminal blocks for domestic purposes. various designs.

When purchasing, pay attention to the quality of their workmanship, the ability to securely clamp the wire and withstand mechanical forces when the screws are tightly tightened.

Ring connection via screw and nut

This is the most affordable way For home handyman. It allows you to connect even the ends of aluminum and copper wires through a steel washer.

When tightening the nut, the ring should work to compress and not unwind. The Grover creates additional force, eliminating the effects of thermal expansion of the wires after heavy loads. This is especially true when using aluminum, which has increased ductility and its own coefficient of linear expansion.

If you install a second nut, it will prevent self-unscrewing and secure the connection of the wires.

Wago terminal blocks

Their design allows for quick execution electrical installation wires Good contact is created by an internal spring-loaded system. The products are certified according to European standards, are widely distributed abroad, and are being actively implemented here.

Vago terminal blocks work normally when connecting wires for sockets. But they have one drawback that must be taken into account - the area of the contact created does not provide good heat transfer and dissipation of its energy through their design. At excessive loads that exceed the manufacturer's technical standards, all the heat is transferred to the wires, the insulation of which begins to melt and burn.

Therefore, when using Vago terminal blocks to connect the wires of the socket, it is necessary to select the correct protection - which will prevent the development of emergency situations.

Insulating PPE caps

The wire contact created by this type of connector works quite normally in lighting networks where the loads are planned and cannot exceed the rated values. It is better not to use them to connect wires at sockets.

Also keep in mind that among similar designs there are many fakes with a weakened internal spring.