In this article, we are pleased to offer you thirty brilliant ways to repurpose and reuse old things. You've probably experienced more than once how difficult it is to let go - to throw away old things, even if they're already for a long time are not used for their intended purpose. Agree, even if they interfere with us when cleaning, we still hope that old things or objects will be useful to us someday. In order to enhance your creativity, we have put together a collection original ideas showing how to reuse old material.
First idea.Bookshelf from an old ladder
As you can see, the old staircase turns into a wonderful one. bookshelf. You just need to hang it on the wall. If the shelf hangs in the corner, then you need to cut it with a saw, and it will look as shown in the figure. If you wish, paint it in the desired color with wood paint.
Second idea.Chair from a suitcase
Many of us have an old suitcase gathering dust in a closet or on a shelf that we haven’t used for a long time, but it’s a pity to throw it away. We propose to give a second life to a suitcase and make a chair out of it. To do this, you will need four vintage legs, which can be purchased at a craft store, and two suitcase-sized pillows. Screw the legs to outside suitcase, and place the pillows in the two inner parts.
Third idea.A shelf chair or a wardrobe on the wall.
The idea of such a shelf will appeal to new residents who have just moved in and don’t have money for furniture. To create such shelves, you only need to drive a nail into the wall and hang a chair.
Fourth idea.Shelves made of old books.
We're sure we all have a few old, unwanted books that can be used for this project. To create shelves you will also need a pencil, ruler, drill, screws, and corners.
Manufacturing:
- Using a pencil and ruler, mark on the wall where to drill holes for the screws for the shelves
- Using a drill, drill the intended holes
— Attach the corners with screws to the wall
— Attach old books with screws to the second part of the corner.
Fifth idea.Lamp hat.
Don't wear a hat? Then use it to make a lamp!
if you have old lamp without a lampshade, then the hat will serve as a lampshade! Look how creative this lamp turns out!
Sixth idea.Mirrors from an old racket.
For this project, simply cut out a mirror in the shape of an oval, hot glue it to the racket and hang the product on the wall.
Seventh idea.broom from plastic bottle.
We made this broom at our dacha. We would like to assure you that this broom sweeps well and does not wear out for a long time.
The process of turning a plastic bottle is described in detail in these pictures.
Eighth idea.Room partition made of hangers.
By folding the hangers in a certain order, you can create a room divider. Such a partition can serve as a barrier for changing clothes, dividing space, etc. d. If you are interested in this idea, then buy hangers in bulk and hot glue, and also be patient to glue them together.
Ninth idea.Bookshelf made from an old piano.
Of course, not everyone has an old piano, but if your piano is not working properly and cannot be fixed, then you can make a wonderful book shelf out of it!
Tenth idea.Lamp made of plastic bottles and disposable spoons.
As you can see, by gluing spoon blades onto the surface of a five or six liter plastic bottle, you can create an original lampshade.
Eleventh idea.Sofa from an old cast iron bathtub.
Don't rush to throw away your old bathroom! After all, you can make two beautiful sofas from it. All you have to do is cut the bathroom in half and paint it any color. Place mattresses on each sofa and that's it: the furniture is ready!
Twelfth idea.Check bag tin cans.
If you like to drink drinks from cans, then it will not be difficult for you to collect enough receipts to create a handbag.
Connect a large number of check among themselves, forming a handbag.
Thirteenth idea.Chandelier made from wine bottles.
I suggest using this idea to decorate a room. country house. As a rule, our main vacation takes place at the dacha with the celebration of all holidays, after which bottles of drinks, including wine, are left behind.
Fourteenth idea.Aquarium from an old TV
The era of tube TVs, especially black and white TVs, is over!
Let's make an aquarium out of them! To do this, remove the contents of the TV and replace the screen with glass! Treat all joints with sealant and fill the aquarium with water, fish, and vegetation.
Fifteenth idea.Chipmunk from a glove
So beautiful soft toy can be made from a regular old glove. The manufacturing process can be seen in these photos
Sixteenth idea.A clock made from a wheel.
If you have an old wheel axle, paint it and attach the clock mechanism and hands! The clock is ready!
Seventeenth idea.Sink on a bicycle.
Such creative idea Not everyone will like it, but we are sure that there will be daredevils who will make a sink on a bicycle and install it in the bathroom.
Eighteenth idea. Tool case.
Rolls from under toilet paper can serve as creating compartments for tools in a box or suitcase.
Nineteenth idea.Container for food fromCD boxes
You can carry sandwiches, cookies, etc. in a CD box to work. It is very comfortable!
Twentieth idea.A hanger made of keys.
We are sure that many owners will like this idea summer cottages, garages or repair shops! If you have a lot of keys, but do not have a hanger, then simply screw them to the wall with screws, after drilling holes in the wall with a drill.
Twenty-first idea.Kerosene lamps from electric lamps.
These lamps are easy to make! All you need is a wick, kerosene and an electric lamp.
Twenty-second idea.Mailbox from system unit.
Remove the contents from the old system unit and use the case as mailbox. Don't forget to put your house number on it.
Twenty-third idea.Mediators from unnecessary bank cards.
Use a hole punch to create a pick shape to cut plastic cards.
Twenty-fourth idea.Fence decor.
Glue colorful glass balls to the fence, thereby decorating the fence.
Twenty-fifth idea.Candles made from bottle caps.
You can use these small candles for aroma lamps or to illuminate a room on a romantic evening.
Twenty-sixth idea.Table for children made from skateboards.
Every dad can make such a table for children to play with, even if he doesn’t have creative talent. The main thing is to find old skateboards, wooden planks and spend a little time.
Twenty-seventh idea.Lamps made from bottles.
"Everything is temporary. Love, art, planet Earth, you, me. Especially me." (99 Francs)
Nothing in this world lasts forever, and the life of gadgets is sometimes very fleeting. But if you love retro style and are frugal and resourceful by nature, then you can give them a second chance by transforming them into something useful and retro looking.
5. Turn an old mouse into a wireless one
Old mice aren't as comfortable or ergonomic as newer models, but they give you that comfortable feeling, like an old shirt that's so old that you sneak it around the house on the weekends when no one is looking, simply because you've had it for a long time and you like it. You're used to it :) If you are still using an old wired mouse, or have kept it as an old battle friend, then now is the time to convert it into a wireless Bluetooth mouse by simply replacing the insides of the old mouse with the insides of a new one.
Let’s say right away that this is a decision dictated solely by a feeling of nostalgia rather than by practical considerations. If your old mouse is too awkward to use on a weekly basis, you can use it to make a camera shutter.
4. Turn an analog TV into an information terminal
Most likely, you have already updated your entire fleet of televisions a long time ago, and the old CRT monitors are gathering dust, at best, somewhere in the country. You can give the old TV new life, turning it into a YBOX (a homemade information screen showing, for example, the weather).
An alternative use is a retro photo frame, which can be placed in the living room. To turn a TV into a photo frame, you need to remove the insides of the TV and replace them with the old sockets and power cord from the lamp, screw in a low power CFL lamp, insert a printed image on the screen, close it and turn on the “TV”.
Now you have a fun retro frame.
If you don't want to waste electricity, recycle your old monitor into a trash bin.
3. Make an aquarium out of an old TV or computer
A project from the “incredible but true” series marked “dangerous.” Do it at your own peril and risk. If you have an old TV, computer or other unnecessary equipment with a lot of space inside, you can turn it into an aquarium.
If you want to use Floppy drives for their intended purpose, you can put USB in them.
1. Making a VoIP phone from a rotary phone
If you're having a hard time saying goodbye to your old rotary phone, you can turn it into a fun computer headset for use with Google Voice, Skype, or any other VoIP solution.
If you have a few unwanted cordless phones (not really old ones), then you can make good walkie-talkie radios out of them.
I hope this collection of ideas for transforming old gadgets has inspired you. Following the links you will see visual guides on how to do this or that thing, on English language. All guides have good visualizations of each of the conversion stages.
Many households would benefit from a device for electric welding of parts made of ferrous metals. Since commercially produced welding machines are quite expensive, many radio amateurs are trying to make welding inverter with your own hands.
We already had an article about that, but this time I’m offering an even simpler version of a homemade welding inverter using available parts with your own hands.
Of the two main design options for the apparatus - with a welding transformer or based on a converter - the second was chosen.
Really, welding transformer- this is a large cross-section and heavy magnetic circuit and a lot copper wire for windings, which is inaccessible to many. Electronic components for the converter with their making the right choice not in short supply and relatively cheap.
How I made a welding machine with my own hands
From the very beginning of my work, I set myself the task of creating the simplest and cheapest possible welding machine using widely used parts and components.
As a result of quite lengthy experiments with various types converter using transistors and thyristors, the circuit shown in Fig. 1.
Simple transistor converters turned out to be extremely capricious and unreliable, while thyristor converters can withstand output shorting without damage until the fuse trips. In addition, SCRs heat up much less than transistors.
As you can easily see, the circuit design is not original - it is an ordinary single-cycle converter, its advantage is its simplicity of design and the absence of scarce components; the device uses many radio components from old TVs.
And finally, it requires virtually no setup.
The diagram of the inverter welding machine is presented below:
Genus welding current- constant, regulation - smooth. In my opinion, this is the simplest welding inverter that you can assemble with your own hands.
When butt welding steel sheets 3 mm thick electrode with a diameter of 3 mm, the steady current consumed by the device from the network does not exceed 10 A. The welding voltage is turned on with a button located on the electrode holder, which allows, on the one hand, to use an increased arc ignition voltage and increase electrical safety, on the other hand, since When the electrode holder is released, the voltage on the electrode is automatically switched off. The increased voltage makes it easier to ignite the arc and ensures its burning stability.
A little trick: a self-assembled welding inverter circuit allows you to connect parts made of thin sheet metal. To do this, you need to change the polarity of the welding current.
The mains voltage rectifies the diode bridge VD1-VD4. The rectified current, flowing through lamp HL1, begins to charge capacitor C5. The lamp serves as a charging current limiter and an indicator of this process.
Welding should only begin after lamp HL1 goes out. At the same time, battery capacitors C6-C17 are charged through inductor L1. The glow of the HL2 LED indicates that the device is connected to the network. SCR VS1 is still closed.
When you press the SB1 button, a pulse generator with a frequency of 25 kHz, assembled on a unijunction transistor VT1, is started. The generator pulses open the thyristor VS2, which, in turn, opens the thyristors VS3-VS7 connected in parallel. Capacitors C6-C17 are discharged through inductor L2 and the primary winding of transformer T1. The inductor circuit L2 - the primary winding of the transformer T1 - capacitors C6-C17 is an oscillatory circuit.
When the direction of the current in the circuit changes to the opposite, current begins to flow through the diodes VD8, VD9, and the thyristors VS3-VS7 close until the next generator pulse on the transistor VT1.
The pulses arising on winding III of transformer T1 open the thyristor VS1. which directly connects the mains rectifier based on diodes VD1 - VD4 with a thyristor converter.
LED HL3 serves to indicate the process of generating pulse voltage. Diodes VD11-VD34 rectify the welding voltage, and capacitors C19 - C24 smooth it out, thereby facilitating the ignition of the welding arc.
Switch SA1 is a batch or other switch with a current of at least 16 A. Section SA1.3 closes capacitor C5 to resistor R6 when turned off and quickly discharges this capacitor, which allows you to inspect and repair the device without fear of electric shock.
Fan VN-2 (with electric motor M1 according to the diagram) provides forced cooling of the device components. Less powerful fans It is not recommended to use them, or you will have to install several of them. Capacitor C1 - any one designed to operate at an alternating voltage of 220 V.
Rectifier diodes VD1-VD4 must be designed for a current of at least 16 A and a reverse voltage of at least 400 V. They must be installed on plate corner heat sinks with dimensions of 60x15 mm, 2 mm thick, made of aluminum alloy.
Instead of a single capacitor C5, you can use a battery of several connected in parallel with a voltage of at least 400 V each, and the battery capacity may be greater than that indicated in the diagram.
Choke L1 is made on a steel magnetic core PL 12.5x25-50. Any other magnetic circuit of the same or larger cross-section is also suitable, provided that the condition of placing the winding in its window is met. The winding consists of 175 turns of PEV-2 1.32 wire (wire of a smaller diameter cannot be used!). The magnetic core must have a non-magnetic gap of 0.3...0.5 mm. Inductance of the choke is 40±10 µH.
Capacitors C6-C24 must have a small dielectric loss tangent, and C6-C17 must also have an operating voltage of at least 1000 V. The best capacitors I have tested are K78-2, used in televisions. You can also use more widely used capacitors of this type with a different capacitance, bringing the total capacitance to that indicated in the circuit, as well as imported film capacitors.
Attempts to use paper or other capacitors designed to operate in low-frequency circuits usually lead to their failure after some time.
It is advisable to use thyristors KU221 (VS2-VS7) with the letter index A or, in extreme cases, B or D. As practice has shown, during operation of the device the cathode terminals of the thyristors noticeably heat up, which is why it is possible that the solder joints on the board may be destroyed and even fail SCR.
Reliability will be higher if either tube-pistons made of tinned copper foil with a thickness of 0.1...0.15 mm, or bandages in the form of a tightly rolled spiral of tinned copper wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm are put on the terminal of the SCR cathode and soldered along the entire length. The piston (bandage) should cover the entire length of the terminal almost to the base. You need to solder quickly so as not to overheat the thyristor.
You will probably have a question: is it possible to install one powerful one instead of several relatively low-power SCRs? Yes, this is possible when using a device that is superior (or at least comparable) in its frequency characteristics to the KU221A thyristors. But among those available, for example, from the PM or TL series, there are none.
The transition to low-frequency devices will force the operating frequency to be lowered from 25 to 4...6 kHz, and this will lead to the deterioration of many the most important characteristics machine and a loud piercing squeak when welding.
When installing diodes and SCRs, the use of heat-conducting paste is mandatory.
In addition, it has been established that one powerful thyristor is less reliable than several connected in parallel, since it is easier for them to provide Better conditions heat removal. It is enough to install a group of SCRs on one heat sink plate with a thickness of at least 3 mm.
Since current equalizing resistors R14-R18 (C5-16 V) can become very hot during welding, before installation they must be freed from the plastic shell by firing or heating with a current, the value of which must be selected experimentally.
Diodes VD8 and VD9 are installed on a common heat sink with thyristors, and diode VD9 is isolated from the heat sink with a mica spacer. Instead of KD213A, KD213B and KD213V are suitable, as well as KD2999B, KD2997A, KD2997B.
Choke L2 is a frameless spiral of 11 turns of wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm2 in heat-resistant insulation, wound on a mandrel with a diameter of 12...14 mm.
The choke gets very hot during welding, so when winding the spiral, a gap of 1...1.5 mm should be provided between the turns, and the choke should be positioned so that it is in the air flow from the fan. 
Rice. 2 Transformer magnetic core
T1 is made up of three PK30x16 magnetic cores folded together from 3000NMS-1 ferrite (the horizontal transformers of old TVs were made on them).
The primary and secondary windings are divided into two sections each (see Fig. 2), wound with PSD1.68x10.4 wire in glass fabric insulation and connected in series according to. The primary winding contains 2x4 turns, the secondary winding contains 2x2 turns.
The sections are wound on a specially made wooden mandrel. The sections are protected from unwinding of the turns by two bands made of tinned copper wire with a diameter of 0.8...1 mm. Bandage width - 10...11 mm. A strip of electrical cardboard is placed under each bandage or several turns of fiberglass tape are wound.
After winding, the bandages are soldered.
One of the bands of each section serves as the output of its beginning. To do this, the insulation under the bandage is performed so that inside it was in direct contact with the beginning of the section winding. After winding, the bandage is soldered to the beginning of the section, for which purpose the insulation is removed from this section of the coil in advance and it is tinned.
It should be borne in mind that in the most severe thermal mode winding I works. For this reason, when winding its sections and during assembly, air gaps should be provided between the outer parts of the turns by placing short fiberglass inserts lubricated with heat-resistant glue between the turns.
In general, when making transformers for inverter welding with your own hands, always leave air gaps in the winding. The more of them, the more effective the heat removal from the transformer and the lower the likelihood of burning the device.
It is also appropriate to note here that winding sections made with the mentioned inserts and gaskets with wire of the same cross-section 1.68x10.4 mm 2 without insulation will be cooled better under the same conditions.
The contacting bands are connected by soldering, and it is advisable to solder a copper pad in the form of a short piece of wire from which the section is made to the front ones, which serve as the sections’ leads.
The result is a rigid, one-piece primary winding of the transformer.
The secondary one is made in the same way. The only difference is the number of turns in the sections and the fact that it is necessary to provide an outlet from the middle point. The windings are installed on the magnetic circuit in a strictly defined manner - this is necessary for proper operation rectifier VD11 - VD32.
The winding direction of the upper section of winding I (when looking at the transformer from above) should be counterclockwise, starting from the upper terminal, which must be connected to inductor L2.
The winding direction of the upper section of winding II, on the contrary, is clockwise, starting from the upper terminal, it is connected to the diode block VD21-VD32.
Winding III is a turn of any wire with a diameter of 0.35...0.5 mm in heat-resistant insulation that can withstand a voltage of at least 500 V. It can be placed last, anywhere in the magnetic circuit on the side of the primary winding.
To ensure the electrical safety of the welding machine and effective cooling of all transformer elements by air flow, it is very important to maintain the necessary gaps between the windings and the magnetic core. When assembling a welding inverter with their own hands, most DIYers make the same mistake: they underestimate the importance of cooling the trance. This cannot be done.
This task is performed by four fixing plates, placed in the windings when final assembly node. 
The plates are made of fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1.5 mm in accordance with the drawing in the figure.
After final adjustment, it is advisable to fix the plates heat-resistant glue. The transformer is attached to the base of the device with three brackets bent from brass or copper wire with a diameter of 3 mm. The same brackets fix the relative position of all elements of the magnetic circuit.
Before installing the transformer on the base, between the halves of each of the three sets of magnetic circuits, it is necessary to insert non-magnetic gaskets made of electrical cardboard, getinax or textolite with a thickness of 0.2...0.3 mm.
To manufacture a transformer, you can use magnetic cores of other standard sizes with a cross-section of at least 5.6 cm 2. For example, W20x28 or two sets of W 16x20 made of 2000NM1 ferrite are suitable.
Winding I for the armored magnetic circuit is made in the form of a single section of eight turns, winding II is similar to that described above, from two sections of two turns. The welding rectifier on diodes VD11-VD34 is structurally a separate unit, made in the form of a shelf: 
It is assembled in such a way that each pair of diodes is placed between two heat sink plates measuring 44x42 mm and 1 mm thick, made of sheet aluminum alloy.
The entire package is tightened with four steel threaded rods with a diameter of 3 mm between two flanges 2 mm thick (of the same material as the plates), to which two boards forming the rectifier terminals are attached with screws on both sides.
All diodes in the block are oriented in the same way - with the cathode terminals to the right in the figure - and the terminals are soldered into the holes of the board, which serves as the common positive terminal of the rectifier and the device as a whole. The anode leads of the diodes are soldered into the holes of the second board. Two groups of terminals are formed on it, connected to the extreme terminals of winding II of the transformer according to the diagram.
Given the large total current flowing through the rectifier, each of its three terminals is made of several pieces of wire 50 mm long, each soldered into its own hole and connected by soldering at the opposite end. A group of ten diodes is connected by five segments, of fourteen by six, the second board with common point all diodes - six.
It is better to use a flexible wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm.
In the same way, high-current group leads from the main printed circuit board of the device are made.
The rectifier boards are made of foil fiberglass laminate 0.5 mm thick and tin-plated. Four narrow slots in each board help reduce the load on the diode leads during thermal deformation. For the same purpose, the leads of the diodes must be molded, as shown in the figure above.
The welding rectifier can also use more powerful diodes KD2999B, 2D2999B, KD2997A, KD2997B, 2D2997A, 2D2997B. Their number may be smaller. Thus, in one of the variants of the device, a rectifier consisting of nine 2D2997A diodes worked successfully (five in one arm, four in the other).
The area of the heat sink plates remained the same, but it was possible to increase their thickness to 2 mm. The diodes were not placed in pairs, but one in each compartment.
All resistors (except R1 and R6), capacitors C2-C4, C6-C18, transistor VT1, thyristors VS2 - VS7, zener diodes VD5-VD7, diodes VD8-VD10 are mounted on the main printed circuit board, and SCRs and diodes VD8, VD9 are installed on a heat sink screwed to a board made of foil PCB 1.5 mm thick: 
Rice. 5. Board drawing
The scale of the board drawing is 1:2, however, the board is easy to mark, even without using photo enlargements, since the centers of almost all holes and the boundaries of almost all foil pads are located on a grid with a pitch of 2.5 mm.
The board does not require great precision in marking and drilling holes, but remember that the holes in it must coincide with the corresponding holes in the heat sink plate.
The jumper in the circuit of diodes VD8, VD9 is made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.8...1 mm. It is better to solder it from the print side. The second jumper made of PEV-2 0.3 wire can also be placed on the parts side.
Group output of the board, indicated in Fig. 5 letters B, connected to inductor L2. Conductors from the anodes of thyristors are soldered into the holes of group B. Terminals G are connected to the bottom terminal of transformer T1 according to the diagram, and Terminal D is connected to inductor L1.
The wire pieces in each group must be the same length and the same cross-section (at least 2.5 mm2). 
Rice. 6 Heatsink
The heat sink is a 3 mm thick plate with a bent edge (see Fig. 6).
The best material for a heat sink is copper (or brass). As a last resort, in the absence of copper, you can use an aluminum alloy plate.
The surface on the installation side of the parts must be smooth, without nicks or dents. The plate has threaded holes drilled for assembly with printed circuit board and fastening elements. Part leads and connecting wires are passed through unthreaded holes. The anode terminals of the thyristors are passed through the holes in the bent edge. Three M4 holes in the heat sink are intended for its electrical connection with printed circuit board. For this, three brass screws with brass nuts were used.Fig. 8. Placement of nodes
The unijunction transistor VT1 usually does not cause problems, however, some instances, in the presence of generation, do not provide the pulse amplitude necessary for the stable opening of the thyristor VS2.
All components and parts of the welding machine are installed on a base plate made of getinax 4 mm thick (textolite 4...5 mm thick is also suitable) on one side. There is a cut in the center of the base round window for fan mounting; it is installed on the same side.
Diodes VD1-VD4, thyristor VS1 and lamp HL1 are mounted on angle brackets. When installing transformer T1 between adjacent magnetic cores, it is necessary to ensure air gap 2 mm Each of the clamps for connecting welding cables is an M10 copper bolt with copper nuts and washers.
The head of the bolt presses a copper square to the base from the inside, which is additionally secured against turning with an M4 screw and nut. The thickness of the angle shelf is 3 mm. An internal connecting wire is connected to the second shelf by bolting or soldering.
The printed circuit board-heatsink assembly is installed with parts to the base on six steel racks, bent from a strip 12 mm wide and 2 mm thick.
On the front side of the base there is a toggle switch handle SA1, a fuse holder cover, LEDs HL2, HL3, a variable resistor handle R1, clamps for welding cables and cables to the SB1 button.
In addition, four 12 mm diameter bushing posts with internal thread M5, machined from textolite. A false panel with holes for the device controls and a protective fan grille is attached to the racks.
The false panel can be made from sheet metal or dielectric with a thickness of 1... 1.5 mm. I cut it out of fiberglass. On the outside, six posts with a diameter of 10 mm are screwed to the false panel, onto which the network and welding cables are wound upon completion of welding.
Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the free areas of the false panel to facilitate the circulation of cooling air. 
Rice. 9. Appearance inverter welding machine with laid cables.
The assembled base is placed in a casing with a lid made of sheet textolite (getinax, fiberglass, vinyl plastic can be used) 3...4 mm thick. Cooling air outlets are located on the side walls.
The shape of the holes does not matter, but for safety it is better if they are narrow and long.
The total area of the outlet openings should not be less than the area of the input opening. The casing is equipped with a handle and a shoulder strap for carrying.
The electrode holder can be of any design, as long as it provides ease of operation and easy replacement of the electrode.
On the handle of the electrode holder, you need to mount the button (SB1 according to the diagram) in such a place that the welder can easily hold it pressed even with a mitten hand. Since the button is under mains voltage, it is necessary to ensure reliable insulation of both the button itself and the cable connected to it.
P.S. The description of the assembly process took a lot of space, but in reality everything is much simpler than it seems. Anyone who has ever held a soldering iron and a multimeter in their hands will be able to assemble this welding inverter with their own hands without any problems. 
Hello to all DIYers, as usual, every novice radio amateur has an idea to do something, but the first thing that usually comes to mind is to assemble an amplifier that will be easy to assemble and does not require financial costs. That is why I decided to build an amplifier, the main “heart” of which can be extracted from an unnecessary or old TV; I will tell you how to make it in this article.
To assemble a sound amplifier, we need to prepare everything necessary materials, This:
TV, unnecessary or just old, keep in mind that you will not find such an amplifier on TVs made in the USSR.
Soldering iron and everything you need to use it, stand, solder and flux.
The wires will fit perfectly from the computer power supply.
A plug for tulips, these can be found in a radio, DVD player or music center.
A clamp for the wires through which the amplifier-amplified sound will flow is also found in most music systems.
Cooling radiator, I removed it from an old vinyl player.
The power supply from the laptop, the internals will not be needed, but only the case.
Pliers.
Two-pin plug, the diameter of the contact fits into the block from the PC.
A utility knife for making holes.
Once all the details are ready and you have definitely decided that the moment has come when you can make a simple amplifier, you can begin step by step assembly.
Step one. As usual, the TV is made of plastic; remove it to get to the board. Attention, before disassembling, remove the plug from the socket, it is not for nothing that it is written on the TV high voltage. After the cover is removed, you can examine the board; there is a radiator on it, which is usually made in the form of sheet aluminum. You need to cut the board with metal scissors or using pliers, leave more than 10 cm around the chip, since the board should remain working.
Step two. In order to make a sound amplifier from the “insides” of the TV, you need to find information on the Internet about the microcircuit, the marking of which is written on it in white letters with a set of numbers, in this case it is the TDA 2611 microcircuit, data about it is in the datasheet and the connection diagram, see on the picture.
It is according to the scheme that we will give the microcircuit a second life.
Further assembly will take place using the circuit shown in the picture. Using a soldering iron, we solder a pre-tinned red wire to the 1st leg of the microcircuit, the count goes to the right, this wire is the plus of the power supply, for the minus we take the black wire, which we solder to the 6th leg, these two wires are attached to the plug.
We've sorted out the power supply, now we need to make a sound input, which can be supplied from any player or phone using a jack plug adapter on one side and a pair of tulips on the other. We solder the inputs for these tulips to the 7th leg through a resistor attached to the board at the input and the 6th leg.
We make the sound output at the clamps, the wires of which are connected to the track of the 2nd leg of the microcircuit coming after the 220 µF capacitor, the second contact goes, as in most cases, to the minuses.
Part of the amplifier electronics is ready, now we need a good, noble case with cooling. Without thinking twice, I opted for a power supply for charging the laptop; it seemed to me that the case made from it would be good. Well, let's get started. First, let's open its contents and, using a utility knife, cut out holes for tulips and power on one side and on the other for sound output.
All plugs are attached using hot melt adhesive. Finally, you need to screw the amplifier chip onto the radiator and also secure it with hot-melt adhesive.
Everyone once had old televisions, those big ones, tube ones, with a convex screen and in most cases black and white. Many of them have long been thrown into the trash or disassembled for spare parts, and some still have them stored somewhere in a barn. It would be nice if such a TV brought at least some benefit, and did not take up space and collect dust. In today's material, we will talk about several cool ideas, what can be made from an old TV. It will be interesting!
Aquarium
So, the first craft we will talk about is an aquarium from a TV. You shouldn’t be surprised or think that this is some kind of joke, no, everything is serious here. In addition, the aquarium is very popular among TV crafts. One has only to write in a search engine “what can be made from an old TV”, and immediately the first proposed option will be an aquarium.
What will need to be done to make everything work? Yes, in general, there is nothing particularly complicated here.
First you need to very carefully remove all the insides of the TV; they will no longer be needed. Ideally, only the body should remain. The back wall (lid) also needs to be removed.
The next step is to select a ready-made aquarium from the store that is suitable in size and will fit inside the TV. For greater beauty, the aquarium can be covered with film with marine theme. This will make it look more interesting.
Now you need to unpin top part body and make it either completely removable so that the fish can be fed, or attach loops to it to make it folding design. You also need to screw a lamp on the bottom of the lid, which will serve as a light source for the fish.
Actually, almost everything is ready. We place the aquarium inside the case, insert the frame in front that covered the screen, fill it with water, add the fish, lower the lid and connect the lamp. Voila!
Mini bar
The next thing you can make from an old TV is a minibar. Not everyone has their own little bar in their house or apartment for one simple reason - there is no space. However, if you have an old TV at hand, then this problem will quickly become solvable.
The procedure here is as follows:
- All the “internals” are pulled out and removed.
- If installed at the rear plastic cover, then it is recommended to remove it, and instead screw a piece of panel plywood or fiberboard to the body.
- For beauty, it is recommended to paste over the inside of the wall of the future minibar with some self-adhesive film. Also, some users prefer to make a small backlight from LED lamps inside the case.
- In general, the main work has been completed and at this stage, the mini-bar can begin to be filled. If you wish, you can improve this household item and make a front hinged lid that would cover containers with booze from prying eyes. In addition, some users devote a lot of time to the external decoration of the TV case in order to get something very original and beautiful. But here a lot depends on desire and imagination.
House for a cat
What else can you make from an old TV? How about a house for your beloved pet? The tailed friend will be very happy with such a gift.
The house is quite simple to make. To begin with, all the “stuffing” and the TV picture tube are removed. Only the body should remain. The back wall, if made of plastic, is replaced with fiberboard sheet.
Locker
A small and neat cabinet is what you can do with an old TV. This craft will not take up much space in the interior and will look very harmonious, giving some zest.
The cabinet is made according to a principle similar to previous crafts. First, the “insides” are removed, then, if necessary, the back wall is changed. The next stage is to install shelves inside the cabinet so that small items, books or anything else can be placed on them. You can, of course, do without shelves, anyone has any suggestions.
Once the body is ready, you can start decorating. Here, too, a lot depends on imagination and wishes. Some people simply paint everything the same color, some make the cabinet multi-colored, some even cover the walls with film and wallpaper.
The final stage is to place the cabinet where it will stand and fill it.
Flower bed
Continuing the topic of “what can be done with an old tube TV,” one cannot help but note such a useful feature as a flower bed. Yes, an old TV may well become a decoration for a garden or flower bed.
You can make a flowerbed different ways. The simplest one is to take out all the “stuffing” from the TV, put the case on back wall, pour soil inside the box and sow flower seeds there. You can also immediately transplant the flower there and not wait for the seeds to germinate.
Another way to make a flower bed, which is slightly different from the previous one. The TV is also cleaned of all “internals”, the back wall is removed, and it is painted in some bright color, after which soil is poured inside and flowers are planted there. This flowerbed will look especially beautiful with plants that grow strongly and branch profusely. Also, such a flowerbed can be hung and get an even more interesting result.
Nightstand
The next thing you can make from an old TV with your own hands is a bedside table. This one is simple, but at the same time useful item interior design is done simply and without much effort.
The principle here is somewhat similar to a locker. First, the body is prepared, the partitions are set up, you can even try to make a small drawer. After this, the bedside table is painted in the desired color and, in principle, you can use it.
However, if you go to a hardware store and buy several different foam moldings there, then from an ordinary simple bedside table you can completely make an interior item in classic style.
Photography lamp
Well, and the last craft. Here we are not talking about a simple tube TV, but about an old device with a flat but broken screen. Surely someone has these at home too. Many people think that if a screen breaks, they should just throw it away, but in vain. Now we will tell you what can be done from an old TV from Samsung, Sony, LG and other brands with a broken flat screen.
We'll talk about a photography lamp. Probably everyone has seen such lamps in a photo studio.
Here's what to do:
- We disassemble the TV.
- We disconnect the broken screen.
- We put the TV back together, plug it into a power outlet and enjoy the finished craft. If desired, it will be possible to construct some kind of mount so that the “lamp” can be installed as needed.
Watch a helpful video that shows how this lamp is made.