Hydrangeas are shrubs of amazing beauty and diversity. In gardening, hydrangeas are valued for their variety of inflorescence shapes, wide range of colors, large curly leaves, interesting bark, as well as for their unpretentiousness and abundant flowering. Hydrangeas present an unusually spectacular spectacle in the fall, when on one plant you can simultaneously see buds, seed heads and leaves of different colors. In this article we will look at the main types of hydrangeas and the features of planting and growing them in the garden.
Tree hydrangea “Annabelle” (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’). © Spray-N-Grow
General information about the plant
The name “hydrangea” was given to the plant in honor of Princess Hortensia, the sister of Prince Charles Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen of the Holy Roman Empire. The botanical name of the shrub – “hydrangea” – is known only to specialists. Meanwhile, translated from Greek it means “vessel with water” and speaks of a very important quality plants - they love moisture very much.
The vast majority of hydrangea species are shrubs 1-3 m high, but some species are small trees, the rest are vines that climb the trunks of other trees to a height of up to 30 m. Plants can be either deciduous or evergreen, but widely cultivated species temperate zone are classified as deciduous.
Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem into beautiful spherical inflorescences - a corymb or panicle. In most species, the flower heads contain two types of flowers: small fertile flowers in the middle and large sterile flowers at the edges. In some species, all flowers are fertile and have the same size.
The vast majority of hydrangeas have white flowers, but some, such as large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), they can be blue, red, pink and lilac. In such species, the color often depends on the pH level (hydrogen index) in the soil: in acidic soils, the petals become blue, in neutral soils - pale beige, and in alkaline soils - pink or lilac. Hydrangeas are one of the few plants that can accumulate aluminum, which is released from acidic soils and in some species forms compounds that give them blue tints.
Corner of the garden with hydrangeas. © atlanticavenuegarden Main types of hydrangeas
Hydrangea ( Hydrangea) is a genus of flowering plants in the Hydrangeaceae family, consisting of approximately 70-80 species; we list here only the main ones.
A species that grows naturally in eastern North America. The inflorescences are white. Flowering in July-August. In late autumn, it is recommended to cut off faded inflorescences. Pruning of frozen, thickened and weakened shoots should be carried out either before the sap begins to flow, or after the leaves have completely blossomed. One of the famous varieties is Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ with dark leaves and very large greenish inflorescences.
Tree hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens). © Powell Gardens
View from China. Large shrub up to two and a half meters high. The leaves are large, oval, dark green. Inflorescences are wide corymbs. Blooms from early July; At the beginning of flowering, the flowers are white, by the end of July they turn pink, and in August they acquire a rich crimson color. In the conditions of the European part of Russia, the plant does not require shelter for the winter.
Hydrangea bretschneideri. © babopielka
View from Southern Japan. The leaves are bright green and large. The inflorescences are lilac and bloom in August. Winter hardiness is low; In the conditions of the European part of Russia, only some particularly cold-resistant varieties do not freeze, for example, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Blue Wave’ and ‘Endless Summer’. This species is also grown as a houseplant.
Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). © Keane Landscaping
The natural range of the species is Eastern China, Korea, Japan, Sakhalin. Plants are about one and a half meters high. Green buds appear in mid-July; by the end of the month they turn white; flowering - from August throughout autumn; inflorescences - with a smooth transition from white to crimson and crimson with a purple tint. Hydrangea paniculata has high winter hardiness. In autumn it is recommended to prune faded inflorescences, in spring - sanitary and formative pruning. Famous varieties are Hydrangea paniculata ‘Kyushu’, ‘Pinky Winky’, ‘Grandiflora’.
Hydrangea paniculata. © Marc JANSEN
Before planting tree hydrangea cuttings in early April, you need to dig a hole with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm. Next, you need to place the cutting in the hole and fill it with a pre-prepared mixture of humus, chernozem, peat and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1:1. It is also necessary to add 20 g of urea and 30 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
Repeat this complex feeding after 2 years. Feeding mineral fertilizers or manure can be carried out at the beginning of growth, during the formation of buds and 1-2 times per summer time in smaller doses.
Plants should be planted at a distance of about 150 cm from each other. You should not place the plant near trees, as they actively absorb moisture from the soil. There is no need to cover for the winter. Thanks to the powerful root system, in case of freezing, the plant is restored to its previous state. It begins to bloom at 4-5 years.
Hydrangea paniculata seedlings on permanent place planted at 4-5 years of age. To do this, prepare a hole 35-40 cm deep, 50 x 70 cm wide. And for a free hedge, they dig a meter-long strip. The distance between adult plants should be up to 2.5 m, but in order to have a “bouquet” earlier, holes are marked every 0.7-1 m, and after a few years the group is thinned out.
In northern regions, it is better to plant hydrangea in spring, in more southern regions - in spring and autumn. The roots are slightly shortened, and if this happens in the spring, then all annual shoots are shortened, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each. The plantings are mulched with peat and a compost layer of 5-8 cm. In the fall they are fed with mineral fertilizers, and in early spring with a urea solution at the rate of 18-20 g per bucket, 2-3 buckets per plant.
Large-leaved hydrangea is relatively light-loving, but it can be planted in light partial shade, however, the less light, the later flowering occurs and the fewer inflorescences. The soil is preferably slightly or moderately acidic (pH 5.5); one of the compositions: leaf, turf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1. In alkaline soil, hydrangea suffers from chlorosis (the leaves begin to turn yellow). To avoid chlorosis, water with a solution of salts containing iron once every 10 days.
Depending on the acidity of the soil, you can change the color of large-leaved hydrangea flowers. When the medium is slightly alkaline, they are pink; when the medium is acidic, they change color to blue or blue. To obtain blue and blue inflorescences, it is necessary to add iron salts and alum to the soil every two weeks: 3-5 potassium aluminum or ammonia-potassium alum per 1 liter of water. For one plant you need 2 liters of this solution.
To speed up flowering, the plant is sprayed twice with an aqueous solution of gibberellins at an interval of 4-7 days at a concentration of 50 mg/l. Then the hydrangea blooms 2-4 weeks earlier. This technique also increases the decorativeness of plants. The flowers become larger and there are more of them. Plants are treated when the inflorescences reach 2-4 cm.
Planting paniculata hydrangea. © Deborah Silver Features of growing hydrangeas
Hydrangea grows quickly, is heat-loving, demanding of soil and moisture, and does not tolerate lime. Tolerates slight shading, low frost resistance (down to -18 °C).
Easily propagated by dividing the bush and green cuttings. In Russia, large-leaved hydrangea grows in open ground only in the south. When cultivated in a greenhouse or in a room at the very end of the growing season, when the hydrangea begins to shed its leaves, the shoots must be cut short. In winter, during the dormant period, plants are kept in a cool but frost-free room (+5 ° C), and at the end of winter, when the buds swell, they are transferred to a warmer and brighter room, but without direct contact. sun rays. This species can also be cultivated as a container culture, which is kept outdoors only in the summer.
Recently, with the development of agricultural technology and climate warming, large-leaved hydrangea began to be cultivated in the open ground of central Russia. In garden hydrangea, inflorescences form on last year's shoots. Therefore, the main problem is to preserve them entirely, so that the flower buds do not freeze and dry out. Covering methods are the same as for roses.
Among the garden hydrangea varieties there are more winter-hardy varieties and those that can be grown in middle lane Russia only with bringing plants indoors for the winter. Even relatively winter-hardy varieties of garden hydrangea, due to the characteristics of the microclimate, cannot grow and bloom in all areas.
Large-leaved hydrangea bushes tolerate frosts better if they receive enough moisture in the fall. Flowers and leaves of large-leaved hydrangeas die even with light night frosts, so it is recommended to cover them in the second half of October. You can protect the bushes from short-term frosts with covering material and greenhouse film, always in two layers. In winter, the plants are covered with peat at the base, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with dry leaves and spruce branches.
Planting hydrangea. © babopielka Soil for hydrangeas
For successful abundant flowering, fertile soils are required. Hydrangea prefers clayey structural soil; it also grows on red soils, but does not like sandy soils. By the way, the color of the flowers becomes brighter in paniculata hydrangea, growing in acidic soil, but in neutral soil it not only turns pale, but the whole plant suffers.
Therefore, if the soil on the site is not acidic enough, when planting it is necessary to add brown peat, coniferous soil (spruce, or preferably semi-rotted pine litter), and sawdust. Ash, lime, chalk and other deoxidizing agents are contraindicated for all hydrangeas.
The root system is shallow. The roots predominantly spread in width, and as a result their border significantly exceeds the crown border. They need moist soil for normal life. Good decision Planting ground cover plants, for example, mossy saxifrage and various sedums, in tree trunk circles could be an option.
Hydrangea propagation
Hydrangea is propagated mainly by herbaceous cuttings from root shoots. Cuttings from side shoots produce weaker plants, so they are avoided.
Cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea grown in the house are carried out in February-March (even until April 15). Hydrangeas rooted in February-March can be grown in 4-5 stems; those rooted later should be grown into one stem.
Cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea grown in the garden are carried out from June to July inclusive, until the shoots become lignified.
Depending on the availability of breeding material, the cuttings are cut with 2-4 nodes with a sharp and clean knife. Cuttings with small leaves root more successfully. You need to cut the cuttings just before planting them. Cuttings should not be allowed to wilt. In the latter case, the wilted cuttings should be immersed in water for some time. The leaves are shortened by one third or half. Cuttings are rooted in scout boxes, on shelves, in greenhouses. Good results are obtained when rooting cuttings in coniferous soil; The cuttings are not covered with anything, but are only often sprayed with water.
Hydrangea paniculata. ©John Hagstrom Cuttings for rooting are planted to a depth of 2 cm, but the cuttings of the lower leaves are not immersed in the soil. The planting distance is 4-5 cm. After planting, they should be watered, keeping in mind that wilted hydrangea cuttings are difficult to restore turgor and take root worse.
Wilting of cuttings is very often the cause of poor rooting. Hydrangeas need to be shaded from bright sunlight. Some gardeners root hydrangea cuttings under glass, but this method often causes the cuttings to rot.
The temperature during rooting is maintained at about 14-17 °C. Lower temperatures lengthen the rooting period and, therefore, provide more opportunities for cuttings to rot. When cutting hydrangeas, you must maintain cleanliness.
Rooted cuttings (this usually takes 15-20 days) are planted in boxes or on shelves at a distance of 8x8 cm or in 7-9 cm pots. Growing hydrangeas in pots is not economical: it requires more space and labor.
The soil for hydrangea cuttings should be acidic, consisting of marsh and compost soil. If the compost soil is not acidic, then peat is used.
For white, pink and red hydrangeas, slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) is recommended, for blue and lilac - more acidic soil (pH 4-4.5). With insufficient acidity, hydrangea leaves turn yellow. To avoid this, water the soil with a weak solution of sulfuric acid (5 g per 100 liters of water).
Planting plants in boxes or on racks makes it easier to care for plants, they grow and develop better.
The cuttings are watered with water that does not contain lime, which neutralizes the acidity of the soil. Do not use manure that is not completely rotted, as it can cause yellowing of the leaves. The same phenomenon can occur from excess lime in the soil, since if the soil is insufficiently acidic, hydrangeas will not be able to absorb potassium, magnesium, and iron.
It is advisable to prepare the soil the previous autumn or early winter so that the applied fertilizers can decompose sufficiently. Per 1 m3 of soil add 2 kg of bone meal, 0.75 kg of potassium sulfate, 1.5 g of ammonium sulfate. Thomasslag and other fertilizers with an alkaline reaction are not recommended.
Hydrangea after spring pruning. © Born To Organize Rooted plants are fed every week in the spring with a complete fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. The temperature should be around 14°C. In May, boxes with hydrangeas are transferred to cold greenhouses.
Early varieties with a short growth period, which form flower buds faster, are pruned in the first half of June, and late varieties - in May. Pruning is done over two pairs of normally developed leaves. These plants will have 3-4 shoots. Plants from late cuttings are not pruned, as they usually bloom in one head. To obtain low indoor plants, you need to ensure that they do not stretch out. The cut tops of plants are rooted to produce single-stem plants.
Two weeks before pruning or two weeks after it, the plants are planted in pots in which they should bloom. When planting elongated hydrangeas in pots, they are planted deeper than they were in order to reduce their height. Hydrangeas form roots even on woody stems.
Single-stem plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm, and two- to four-stem plants in pots with a diameter of 12-14 cm. At first, after planting, plants in greenhouses are shaded from bright sunlight. After rooting, the plants do not need shading: it can even lead to the plants stretching.
Plants that are still weakly rooted in pots must be protected from heavy rains, so they are not immediately taken out of the greenhouse onto ridges of open ground. All weak shoots of hydrangeas are cut out, since only large flower heads are considered decorative.
Hydrangeas are moisture-loving plants, so they need to be watered and sprayed in a timely manner. To obtain ornamental plants, hydrangeas are systematically fed alternately with a solution of mullein and a mixture of mineral salts.
Early varieties of hydrangeas finish their growth by August, so from this month they stop feeding them and reduce watering, and subsequently even dry them out a little for the buds to ripen. Late varieties finish growing a month later, after which they are also watered less frequently.
During bud ripening, plants are sprayed so as not to cause severe wilting. In early September, hydrangeas of early varieties are given pre-harvest fertilizing, which brings the flowering time closer. In winter, it is better to keep plants in cool greenhouses, basements, and greenhouses. If there is insufficient light, the temperature in the greenhouse should be about 2-4 °C.
Hydrangeas in an outdoor flowerpot. © Deborah Silver
Winter care for hydrangeas in greenhouses
In order for hydrangea to bloom in December-January, it is provided with additional electric lighting from October. Additional lighting of hydrangeas brings the onset of flowering much closer.
Hydrangeas are placed under lamps with rudimentary buds and given winter time additional lighting for 8-10 hours. The best results are observed in night lighting. It accelerates flowering by 7-20 days. Daylighting has less effect.
Provided there is good natural light in the greenhouse, the earliest growth stops in November-December for flowering only in early March. For this they use early varieties with well-ripened buds. If there is a lack of light, plants are grown at a relatively low temperature of about 10°C, which extends the flowering period.
To speed up the flowering of hydrangeas, warm baths are used: the plants are kept in water at a temperature of 35°C for 12 hours. After the bath, hydrangeas are placed in greenhouses with a temperature of 15-16 °C. Good results are also obtained by spraying plants twice at a temperature of 12-14°C with heteroacusin (100 mg of heteroacusin per 1 liter of water).
As the leaves appear, hydrangeas begin to be watered more. On sunny days, the temperature in the greenhouse can rise to 20°C. At this time, you need to carefully ensure that the plants are sufficiently well provided with moisture. In a greenhouse, hydrangeas should stand freely without shading each other.
When hydrangea buds appear, feed them weekly alternately with mullein infusion and solution mineral mixture with a predominance of nitrogen. The surface of the soil in pots should be loosened. When flowers form, hydrangeas are tied to stakes.
How to increase the size of hydrangea inflorescences?
To obtain exhibition hydrangea bushes with large and abundant flowers you can use the following method. Old hydrangeas, cut 25-30 cm from the ground, are planted in the ground so that the root collar is covered with soil. For the winter, plants bent to the ground are covered with spruce branches, dry leaves, etc. In spring, old stems are cut to the ground. During the summer, multi-stemmed bushes form. Plants are watered abundantly. In the first half of summer it is recommended to use fertilizers. In August, hydrangeas are planted in the soil of pots or tubs. Subsequently, normal care is used.
Within 5-6 years you can grow tubs of hydrangeas with several dozen umbrellas. As the number of shoots increases, it is necessary to take pots with larger diameters: with one shoot - 10 cm in diameter, with two or three shoots - with a diameter of 12-13 cm, with a larger number of shoots, take pots with a diameter of 15-18 cm.
Caring for hydrangea at home
Lighting. Hydrangea prefers bright, diffused light. Indoor hydrangea can be taken out into the garden in the summer, gradually accustoming it to direct sunlight, and then, when the plants get used to it, the pots are dug into the ground and left until autumn.
Watering. Abundant from spring to autumn. Hydrangeas like to be watered when the soil in the pots dries out a little, but without allowing the entire earthen ball to dry out. Does not tolerate hard water well.
Air humidity. From time to time it is advisable to spray hydrangeas.
Feeding. Fertilizer feeding is carried out with liquid mineral and organic fertilizers after watering. Feed in summer and at the end of winter before flowering. After pruning, do not feed until new shoots appear.
Trimming. After flowering half the length.
Diseases and pests of hydrangea
Spider mite
It affects leaves from the underside, causing them to turn yellow and marbled, then dry out and fall off. At the optimal temperature for the tick (29-31°C) and humidity (35-55%), its development cycle lasts 7-9 days. The mite covers the underside of the leaf with a brown cobweb. It produces 12-15 generations per year. At low temperatures (10-12°C) and high humidity (80-85%), its activity is significantly reduced.
Control measures: spraying plants with thiophos (5-7 g per 10 liters of water).
Downy mildew
Affects leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later yellowing spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears on the bottom of the leaves; the same coating may appear on young stems. The development of the disease is promoted by a temperature of 18-20°C and high humidity air.
Control measures: treatment of affected plants with copper soap liquid (150 g green soap, 15 g copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease.
Chlorosis
A sign of chlorosis is the lightening of hydrangea leaves, only the veins on them remain dark. Plants growing on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis. An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis.
Control measures: Pour 2-3 times with a solution of potassium nitrate at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of water and after three days - with a solution of ferrous sulfate, also 40 g per 10 liters of water.
Aphids
In closed ground conditions, when forcing plants, hydrangea can be affected by green leaf aphids.
Control measures: a good way to destroy it is to spray the plants twice with a solution of anabasine sulfate. To do this, dissolve 15-20 g of anabasine sulfate in 10 liters of water. This serves as a radical remedy in the fight against leaf aphids.
How nice it is to have such a colorful selection of these wonderful flowers in the garden! But the best thing is that hydrangea is not too difficult to care for and even in the fall it can delight you with an abundance of rich colors and shapes.
The flower received the name “hydrangea” in honor of the princess of the Holy Roman Empire. And the Latin name of the family Hydrangea (Hydrangea) means “vessel of water” in Greek. According to one version, this reflects a special moisture-loving hydrangea, on the other - the shape of the seed pods, reminiscent of a jug.
Photo
When to plant?
The optimal time for planting garden hydrangea is spring, after the threat of overnight soil freezing has passed, but before the buds begin to bloom.
In regions with not very severe winters autumn planting is acceptable, but here you need to be in time before the first frost.
Choosing the best location
Hydrangea tolerates some shade well and grows well in penumbra. Like any aristocrat, she does not tolerate exposure to direct sunlight. Choose a slightly shaded area that receives the brightest light in the first half of the day.
Keep in mind that an adult bush, including branches and flowers, occupies approximately 1.5 m in diameter.
The soil for hydrangea should be loose, nutritious in composition, with a predominantly acidic environment. An alkaline environment is absolutely not suitable for hydrangeas - they lime is contraindicated.
The ideal option is mature compost containing many nutrients.
Bad and good neighbors
Not worth it place hydrangea next to plants with a shallow root system, since due to similar environmental requirements they will inhibit each other. Do not plant hydrangea under trees - the powerful roots of the trees take all the moisture from the soil.
Best neighborhood for hydrangea, these are plants with fleshy roots or tubers. It goes very well with hostas, astilbe, and looks beautiful in combination with boxwood.
After the purchase
If you purchased a new pet in a store, most likely it was raised in a greenhouse and therefore somewhat pampered. You need to accustom your princess to her new place of residence. For this upon landing remember: 
- if you are not going to plant hydrangea immediately after purchase, then water it generously until planting;
- under no circumstances should you shorten or trim the roots of a plant taken out of a container (although this is often recommended!);
- they also cannot be soaked or shaken off the ground;
- The roots of the plant should not feel a sharp transition from the store-bought substrate to the garden soil, otherwise the growth of the root system will slow down or stop. In the planting hole, mix garden soil with fertilized soil at a distance of at least 25 cm from the plant.
When digging a planting hole, consider the size of the above-ground part of the plant. The volume of the root system should be comparable to the volume of the crown. The rule is simple - dig a hole of such depth and width that the plant can fit in it “upside down”!
the greenhouse capricious, accustomed to drip irrigation and large doses of phytohormones and fertilizers, will have a period of adaptation. You have to gradually “remove” the plant from stimulating nutrition, like a patient from strong painkillers. To do this, be sure to feed the plant once every two weeks for the first two months after planting. mineral and organic fertilizers.
If you planted young plant, grown from a rooted cutting, in the first year don't let it bloom, cut off the resulting inflorescences to give the opportunity to lay full-fledged flower buds for the next year.
Seasonal care
Watering. Remember that hydrangea is a “vessel of water”: provide the possibility of abundant irrigation, ideally drip irrigation. Each plant should receive several buckets of water per week, under no circumstances tap water - only rainwater or settled water. To prevent the soil from drying out, mulch trunk circle peat, pine needles, sawdust tree bark, spreading mulch in a layer of 20-25 cm.
Throughout the summer, remove inflorescences that have bloomed and dried out - this will give the plant the opportunity to extend the flowering period. Carry out anti-aging pruning in the spring - remove shoots that have frozen after severe cold, as well as branches that are more than three years old. After the buds awaken, correct the result - cut off the shoots with unopened buds. In order for the bush to be lush, trim the shoots at 4-5 buds.
If you want to rejuvenate old bush hydrangeas, in the fall, completely cut off all the shoots at the root, leaving only a small stump. Powerful in spring root system will allow you to quickly grow a lush crown.
Feeding. Water with water dissolved in it two to three times a month. organic fertilizer(humus, manure). Do not overdo it with mineral fertilizers; their excess can have a bad effect on the winter hardiness of the plant. You cannot fertilize with ash.
We talked more about the rules of planting and care in open ground in.
When to replant?
If you want to replant a hydrangea, follow the same rules and recommendations as when you first planted the plant. It is best to do this in early spring or autumn after the flowering period has ended.
If your goal is not just to change the location for a beautiful bush, but... optimal technology will be the following:
- Water the plant generously and allow the moisture to be absorbed.
- Dig in a circle at a distance of 15 cm from the bush. It is more effective to use a pitchfork for this.
- Tilt the bush and use a sharp knife or shovel to separate part of it.
- Disinfect the incision site with ash.
- Transplant part of the bush into a previously prepared hole in a new location.
Take care of the Princess Hydrangea when planting, and this magnificent plant will thank you for your care in a spectacular way. appearance, becoming a real pearl of your beautiful garden.
Useful video
You can watch a video about planting and care here:
Helpful information
You can read other materials about garden hydrangea.
Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden shrubs. Growing this plant is not difficult, but in order for the bushes to bloom beautifully, several conditions must be met. A description of the garden hydrangea shrub (large-leaved), planting and care in open ground, propagation, pruning, are presented in this article.
Description of the bush
According to legend, the history of the name of this ornamental plant is romantic. During a voyage to the Far East - Asia in 1768, there was a young French woman on the ship, dressed as a boy. Her name was Hortensia. Later she became the wife of one of the expedition members. In honor of this young, brave lady, it was decided to name one of the recently open plants during a trip to Japan.
The Latin name comes from the word "hydrangeam", from Greek words hydor - water and angeion - vessel, a combination of words meaning a container for water - which is why the plant is often called an aquatic shrub.
The first specimens of hydrangea were brought from Japan by J. Banks to the botanical garden in Kew (England) in 1970. The shrub quickly spread throughout the yards and gardens of Europe. Since then, hundreds of varieties have been created in Germany, France, and the Netherlands. Varieties have appeared with completely different shapes and colors of inflorescences, adapted to unfavorable conditions, including those resistant to low temperatures. Since the appearance of representatives of a series of hydrangeas that bloom on annual and biennial shoots (the forever & ever series), the gardening world has become fascinated with these flowers. 
Popular types
The genus has more than 50 species. The most famous types:
Most often we grow garden and paniculate hydrangeas. They are sometimes confused.
Differences between paniculata and garden species
Tree-like and paniculata hydrangea withstand severe frosts, and thanks to the setting of flower buds on annual shoots, their flowering is reliable.
Large-leaved hydrangea (garden) - description
This is the most popular species, much loved, but not the easiest to grow. In its homeland, Japan, the bush reaches a height of 4 meters. The plant is a dense shrub growing up to one and a half meters in height with large fleshy leaves, blooming in white, pink, red and, in special conditions, blue flowers. The color of hydrangea depends on:
- soil pH;
- applied fertilizers have a significant impact on color change;
- the petals of the bush lose water and gradually acquire shades of purple, green and brown, giving the plant a peculiar charm.
Garden hydrangea was once considered a seasonal house plant, and was grown in pots at home. Today it also decorates window sills, especially east or west windows, but only in winter. When spring reigns outside, pots and containers are moved into the garden and onto the balcony, into slightly shaded corners.
Large-leaved hydrangea is found in 2 varieties:
- the first - with spherical or flat inflorescences, in which all or almost all flowers are fruitful;
- the second - with disk inflorescences, in which sterile flowers are located around the fruitful flowers.
Under certain conditions, garden hydrangea flowers change color from pink to blue. This shrub does not have genetically blue flowers, but some pink varieties change color with certain care. Red, pink and white flowers require a substrate with a pH of 5.5-6. To achieve blue flowers, requires very acidic soil. This can be achieved by adding a significant amount of peat (pH 4-5). Mulching with pine needles and crushed bark helps increase soil acidity. coniferous plants.
This is interesting! Previously, people advised burying a handful of rusty nails or copper wire under a hydrangea.
Before flowering, plants are watered 4-5 times a week:
- ammonium alum solution,
- aluminum sulfate solution,
- ferrous sulfate solution.
These solutions can be mixed with the top layer of soil. Today there is a wide selection of special flower fertilizers. You can also acidify the substrate with special preparations with a pH of 4.5-5.5. The formation of blue pigment in hydrangea flowers is explained by the fact that sulfates absorbed by plants from the substrate form, together with the dye contained in the plant sap, a blue tint.
The pink petals of the shrub contain pigments called anthocyanins, which turn blue when exposed to sulfates. Flowers of white varieties do not contain this pigment.
Varieties
| Name and description of the variety | Photo |
| "Sybilla" - pink flowers | 
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| "Leuchtfleuer" - intense red flowers | 
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| “Bouquet of roses” (Boquet rose) – blue or pink flowers | 
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| "Mirai" - pink flowers | 
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| Papillon – pink shades | 
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| "Frau fujiyo" - pink flowers | 
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| "Ayesha" - light purple inflorescences | 
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| "Tricolor" (tricolor) - with variegated tricolor leaves | 
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| "Nymphe" - white inflorescences | 
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| “Magical revolution” – with tubular flowers | 
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In addition to multi-flowered varieties with large spherical inflorescences consisting only of fruit flowers, hydrangeas with sterile flowers surrounded by fruit flowers are interesting, for example:
- "Blue bird"
- "Blue sky"
- "Libelle"
Choosing a place in the garden, soil requirements
This shrub is planted in a quiet, slightly shady place. The garden type of hydrangea prefers a sunny position or diffused light, while the petiolate type prefers partial shade. Direct harsh sun can burn flowers and leaves. To protect flowers from being burned by the sun, you should not plant shrubs near walls that heat up quickly. However, lack of light causes yellowing of the leaves and pale color of the flowers. In case of hot weather, caring for the shrub should include intensive watering.
The plant has the following soil requirements:
- Large-leaved hydrangea grows best in light, moist, well-drained soil.
- The soil should be slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6).
- The shrub does not grow well in heavy, clayey and flooded soils, often called cold soils.
Landing
Correct fit hydrangea gives the plant a better chance of being accepted in a new location. The shrub will bloom poorly and may become sick in an improperly prepared planting site.
When to plant?
It is difficult to determine the best planting date. Hydrangeas are sold in pots and planted from spring to late fall (April to November). This shrub does not tolerate well low temperatures, so it’s best to avoid planting in late fall to give the plant enough time to take root and acclimatize in its new location.
Because in our climate garden species Hydrangeas may not have time to take root before winter; the plant should be planted when it is dormant. It is better to plant in the spring, when the soil warms up - in late April-early May. If severe frosts occur, young plants need shelter.
Hydrangeas planted in spring require regular and abundant watering during the growing season. Planting in the fall helps reduce the frequency of watering, but creates a risk of freezing of the bushes. When choosing an autumn planting date, it is necessary to carefully protect young plants for the winter.
It is better to plant hydrangeas on cloudy days early in the morning, then the plants are not threatened by rapid temperature changes.
From the time of purchase until the time of planting in the soil, seedlings should be stored in shaded and wind-protected areas and watered regularly to prevent the root ball from drying out.
Soil preparation
- Before planting, the area should be cleared of stones, construction debris, and weeds, especially deeply rooted ones, should be removed.
- Soil with too high a pH (above 6.5) should be acidified with peat or mulch. It is worth bringing the soil pH to 4.5-5.5.
- Light soils, highly permeable, low in nutrients and humus are enriched with compost, rotted manure or peat substrate at a dose of 40-60 kg per 10 m² of substrate. The addition of organic matter increases the water capacity of the substrate, enriches it with nutrients, improves density, and creates favorable conditions for the development of the root system of the planted shrub.
- Immediately before planting seedlings in the ground, it is worth adding hydrogel, fertilizers and substances that improve the soil structure. The hydrogel increases the water capacity of the soil, so the soil stays moist longer and the plant is less susceptible to drying out.
- In the case of heavy and compacted soils, preparation should begin a year earlier. To lighten the soil structure, it is mixed with a 10-centimeter layer of pine bark, gravel, peat or compost, and dug in the fall to a depth of 20-30 cm.
Planting technique - step by step
- Dig a hole with the same depth as flower pot, and 2 times its diameter. Plants are often planted in a hole with a diameter of 60-70 centimeters and a depth of 40-50 centimeters.
- Spread a few centimeter layer of manure or compost, acidic humus and garden soil. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1:1:2. If hydrangea is planted on heavy soil, the bottom of the hole is covered with a layer of drainage 10-12 centimeters thick, made of coarse gravel, vermiculite, and small pebbles.
- The seedling and pot should be immersed in a container of water. When the soil is wet, carefully remove the plant from the container, making sure that the root ball does not fall apart. Roots that are too long or damaged must be cut off. Root pruning encourages stronger root growth, making newly planted seedlings better accepted.
- Hydrangeas are planted to the depth at which they grew in the container. Only on sandy and very loose soils are they planted 3-4 cm deeper. The planting density of bushes depends on the vigor of growth:
- If several bushes are planted, the distance between them, depending on the type, should be 70-100 centimeters. Then caring for hydrangea will be easy.
- Dwarf varieties are planted at intervals of 50 × 50 cm.
- Strongly growing varieties are planted at a distance of 100 × 120 cm.
Care after landing
After planting, the soil around the bushes is compacted and a small side is made in which water will collect. Then the planted plants should be watered abundantly, preferably with rainwater, so as not to increase the pH of the substrate. When the water is absorbed, the soil should be replenished if small roots are exposed. A layer of mulch 6-10 cm thick is poured around the planted bushes. Mulching the soil helps maintain moisture in it, ensures cooling of the roots in the summer and protects them from frost in the winter. In addition, organic mulch increases the humus content in the substrate and improves its structure.
For mulching use:
- compost pine bark,
- wood sawdust coniferous species,
- a mixture of bark and peat,
- oak leaves.
Low-growing ornamental groundcover plants with shallow roots can also be planted around the hydrangea for mulch:
- periwinkle,
- ivy,
- pachysandra apex.
Growing and care
Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden shrubs. Growing the plant is not very difficult, but in order for the bushes to bloom for a long time and beautifully, you need to perform several care measures.
Watering
Shrubs produce a lot of green mass and flowers, which requires constant replenishment of moisture. Often, lack of water causes leaves to wilt in hot weather, reduce flowering intensity, and weaken the plant.
During the summer heat, hydrangea should be watered regularly and intensively (preferably 2 times a day). The plant loves not hard water without excess calcium and magnesium salts.
Fertilizer
Hydrangeas have special requirements for fertilizers. Fertilizers should be a mixture of:
- ammonium sulfate,
- potassium sulfate,
- superphosphate.
During periods of strong growth, bushes should be fed even every 10-14 days. At the end of July, for good development of flower buds, special fertilizers for hydrangeas with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium are applied.
Natural fertilizers are rarely used. Manure applied under the bush should be well rotted, because hydrangea does not like fresh fertilizers, especially horse manure. There are multi-component fertilizers for hydrangea on the market in liquid and bulk form, for example:
- Florovit,
- Substral.
You can also purchase natural fermented manure.
Care in autumn, wintering
In order for the shoots to become woody, fertilizing is completed in mid-August and watering is gradually limited. When severe frosts occur, plants shed their leaves and go to rest. Systematic care of the bush also ends.
Garden hydrangea is only somewhat resistant to frost. Its flower buds have thin scales and therefore freeze more easily than leaf buds. It happens that in spring the plant is green, but does not bloom. In our climate, the shrub often freezes, so when caring for it, you should consider protecting the plants for the winter. To do this, the lower parts of the bushes are buried in soil, preferably mixed with bark, leaves, and sawdust. The upper part is covered with mesh or agrofibre. When severe frosts, you also need to wrap the shoots with agrofibre.
It is important! Covering the bushes is done after the first severe frosts, and not before.
Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter begins at the end of November. When the soil freezes to a depth of 3-4 cm, they begin to protect the plants from severe winter frosts. Covering too early will increase the temperature of the substrate and thus push the plants further into the growing season, which will lead to freezing of the bushes during the first severe frosts.
Remember! Before winter shelter of hydrangeas, dry shoots damaged by diseases and pests should be removed. It is also important not to prune healthy shoots - this is done in the spring.
Protecting hydrangea for the winter using agrotextiles - the bush is wrapped in 2-3 layers of fabric and tied with rope. It is better to use white agrotextiles that allow air and water to pass through. To beautifully cover a shrub in winter, you can tie a colorful ribbon on it or tie it with multi-colored thread (example in the photo).
Winter protective caps made of agrotextile can be purchased at garden stores. They already have thread sewn together with the fabric, so the hood just needs to be pulled over the hydrangeas and tied. Agrotextile caps are available different designs, colors.
Another solution for covering several bushes is to surround a group of bushes with an agrotextile fence. The fence is designed to protect hydrangeas from the wind and blow away accumulated snow from their area.
Other types of garden hydrangea, such as paniculata and petiolate, are characterized by high frost resistance.
Pruning - autumn, spring, summer
Hydrangea is pruned three times - in spring, summer and autumn.
- In the spring. It should be remembered that garden (large-leaved) hydrangea, unlike paniculate and petiolate ones, sets flower buds in the fall of last year; this species blooms on last year's shoots. Therefore, in the spring, only frozen fragments of shoots are removed, and not completely, because the buds may be located in the lower part.
- In summer. Cut off all faded inflorescences at a height of 10 centimeters above the base, or slightly higher than the first ones upper leaves.
- in autumn more intensive pruning is carried out. Leave annual shoots with well-developed buds. Young, thin shoots with weakly defined buds are pruned right at the ground. Thin and underdeveloped shoots are also removed from two-year-old branches.
Propagation by cuttings
Garden hydrangeas are easy to propagate - the plant is propagated by green cuttings taken from side shoots. The shrub can be propagated by seeds. However, from a practical point of view, propagation by cuttings is easier and results will be obtained faster.
The date of propagation by cuttings falls on the period from February to June. Until April, hydrangea cuttings should be stored under cover, for example in a greenhouse.
Cuttings are cut from non-lignified shoots 10-15 centimeters long with 2-3 pairs of leaves. The location of the cutting is not important in this case, since the plants take root easily and are cut both at the internodes and under the knot.
The cuttings are planted to a depth of 2-3 centimeters in pots or boxes with peat mixed with sand in a 1:1 ratio. Optimal temperature soil - 18-20 degrees Celsius, air -16-18 degrees.
To propagate hydrangeas, a lot of moisture is required, so the containers are covered with film or a jar. This creates a specific microclimate that has a positive effect on plant rooting. Seedlings need to be watered frequently to keep the soil constantly moist. It is also necessary to irrigate them even several times a day. If the room is warm, the cuttings will take root within a month. In order for the shoots to be strong, the cuttings must be provided with good lighting.
Transplantation of seedlings to a permanent place is carried out in August. In autumn, young plants are covered, first with a large pot or wooden box and then leaves.
Hydrangea requires frequent watering, especially after landing. The water should be as soft as possible, preferably without calcium salts. In the first year of growing season, the plant is watered abundantly every 2 weeks.
Diseases and pests
Although hydrangeas rarely cause problems, they can be attacked by several diseases and pests. Proper fertilizer and conditions in the growing area are very important for their health. Hydrangea diseases usually appear as a result of improper care. For healthy growth, bushes should be planted in lightly shaded positions, in areas with fertile, humus-rich, fairly moist soil with a slightly acidic to acidic pH.
Chlorosis
In soils with too high a pH, hydrangea develops leaf chlorosis, which manifests itself in a light color or yellowing of their tissues. Leaf veins remain dark green during chlorosis.
In case of leaf chlorosis, an acidifying soil fertilizer should be used (it is better to enrich the soil with acidic peat). Chlorosis can be prevented by using hydrangea fertilizers that contain all the macro- and microelements necessary for this plant, but with a low calcium content. The soil under the bushes should also be mulched with pine bark, which is also acidic and slowly decomposes, helping to maintain the soil pH lower. Pine bark also plays a decorative role. Iron chelates are very effective for chlorosis.
Sunburn of leaves
Sometimes hydrangea leaves can burn. In hot and sunny weather, the leaves located on the outside of the bush become yellow or brown, and some fall off. Hydrangeas – shade-tolerant plants, their leaves are sensitive to excess sun, so they can be damaged in very sunny places, on too dry soil. To prevent the leaves from burning, the plant should be given more shade and watered regularly.
Gray mold
The cause of another hydrangea disease, called gray mold, is overwintering the plant in wrong conditions. Frequent rainfall and dense planting of shrubs also contribute to the development of this disease. Gray mold caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, leads to rotting of buds and flowers, and death of the tips of shoots or individual leaves. The youngest leaves turn black and the rot spreads to the stem. The tops of old leaves turn brown and black. Some flowers may turn brown, and a gray coating of mycelium and spores appears on their surface. Infected parts of plants must be cut off and burned. For spraying, when fighting gray mold, fungicides are used:
- Topsin M 500 SC,
- Captan.
Leaf spot
When affected by this disease, spots of varying sizes appear on hydrangea leaves, usually round, first light brown, then brown and gray-brown, often surrounded by a red border. The leaves die.
To prevent the development of the disease, you need to avoid:
- excessive thickening of plants;
- wetting the leaves during watering (you need to water the soil).
The first leaves with spots should be removed and burned. In the fall, all fallen leaves should be raked to prevent them from becoming a source of infection the following season. Affected leaves should not be put into compost; it is better to burn them.
In late autumn, the bushes should be sprayed with 1% rapeseed oil. If there are a lot of infected leaves during the growing season, it is necessary to use fungicides:
- Dithane NeoTec 75 WG),
- Systemik 125 SL,
- Topsin (Topsin M 500 SC).
Spraying is repeated 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days, using 2 alternating preparations.
Powdery mildew
The most dangerous is powdery mildew caused by the fungus Erysiphe polygoni, whose mycelium in the form of a powdery coating first appears on stems and inflorescences, causing them to die. Initially, the disease manifests itself in spots; over time, plaque can cover the entire leaf blade. Over time, the surface of the leaves becomes covered with a brownish coating. Infected leaves grow more slowly, and the apical shoots are deformed.
Having noticed the first symptoms, you need to remove the infected parts of the plant, and in the fall, carefully collect fallen leaves so that they do not become a source of infection in the next season. For spraying, the same fungicides are used as for controlling spotting. You can also use sulfur preparations.
Pests
Hydrangea may suffer from pest attacks, but they do not cause significant damage. Only two pests can be found on hydrangeas - aphids and spider mites.
Why doesn't hydrangea bloom?
Garden hydrangeas set flower buds in the second half of summer and bloom the following summer. Sometimes shrubs don't bloom the following reasons:
- One of the reasons is freezing of the tops or entire shoots with flower buds set.
- Another reason why hydrangeas do not bloom is improper pruning. It must be remembered that hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots. Therefore, if you cut off woody stems with flower buds, the plant will not bloom in this season. For this reason, only shoots that have frozen after winter need to be removed.
Application in landscape
Hydrangeas look good even in small gardens. They are especially well presented against the background of dark green plants. All hydrangeas go well with the following types:
- ferns,
- hosta,
- noble liverwort,
- primroses,
- periwinkle,
- honeysuckle,
- shrubs with small leaves.
The plant can be planted in the ground or in decorative containers that can be easily moved or brought into a greenhouse for wintering. Hydrangeas planted in containers are transferred for the winter to a cool room with a temperature just above zero.
Heiress of the Far East natural species and selection novelties of the European collection, hydrangea (Hydrangea), as this flower is called in botanical atlases, is represented in domestic floriculture by several varieties resistant to cool summers and harsh winters:
There are no evergreen forms among them. Sometimes, for wintering, certain varieties have to be replanted in pots and brought indoors, but some of the hydrangeas (for example, paniculata) can withstand sub-zero temperatures of up to 10◦C, and even -25◦C.
All parts of the growing hydrangea are considered poisonous because they contain cyanogenic glycoids, but folk medicine root extract is used as a tonic, wound healing, diuretic and analgesic.
Necessary conditions for flowering
Among gardeners, there are two opinions on cultivating hydrangea: an unpretentious plant, and a rather capricious one. They are based on correct and incorrect choice landing spots.
After all, growth inhibition, poor flowering, chlorosis or powdery mildew are a consequence of unsuccessful placement of the bush, or choice of soil composition. The plant may also suffer from an excess of gardener love: excessively flooded or “fed” with fertilizers.
Optimal conditions for growth:
- A well-lit hill above the groundwater horizon, where there is no direct sun, but partial shade is formed.
- Natural or artificial protection from constant winds and rainfall.
- Podzolic soils and nutritious loams; acidity is not higher than pH4.5-5.
- Constant moisture of the earthen coma.
- Temperature background is not lower than +12◦С.
- Regular removal of weeds and shoots from the root circle.
- Formative pruning.
- Proper preparation for wintering.
IMPORTANT: In areas with alkaline soil, artificial acidifiers are used for the well-being of the bush: citric or oxalic acid (30 ml per bucket of water), and even battery electrolyte (1 ml per liter of water).
Watch the video about the conditions for lush flowering hydrangeas:
The ability to influence color is a rare gift of nature to man.
At the very beginning of flowering, regardless of the variety, they all have a light green color. Only over time does it become obvious what color the panicles will be.
Palette blooming hydrangea: from chaste white and pale beige through all shades of pink to delicate tones of lilac, blue and blue. It's hard to believe but The color of the inflorescences is determined by the acidity and content of chemical elements in the soil:
- the presence of Al or Fe in the form of alum guarantees all shades of blue;
- on slightly alkaline soils, sterile flowers will have a pink (natural) color;
- The addition of peat also contributes to the color change.
ATTENTION: Harmless ones are commercially available chemical compositions, capable of changing the color of inflorescences, with greater or lesser intensity depending on the amount of added substance.
This treatment is carried out at the beginning of the growing season. Regular use of additives gives unambiguous color of panicles, irregular use results in two-colored appearance.
Special hybrids of hydrangeas have been developed that can change color and are very easily “repainted” into the desired color - “NikkoBlue”, “Blaumeise”, etc. The snow-white varieties are the most difficult to change color; at best, their inflorescences can acquire a slightly pink tint. By influencing color samples, you can get complex shades of red and blue - lilac, violet.
People discovered this feature of influencing the color of hydrangea inflorescences experimentally a long time ago: they buried rusty objects in the bush or watered the plant with rusty water.
How to prolong the joy of admiring?
A flowering bush pleases the eye for several months; inflorescences cut for a bouquet stand in water for 2 weeks. But the desire to extend the flowering season prompted florists to preserve blooming hydrangeas different ways for up to a year. This is drying:
Such a flower will last in a floral arrangement for a year without losing color, but then it will still fade.
You need to cut flowers for drying at the end of the season., when fertile flowers begin to actively bloom, and sterile ones begin to change color and fade. It is very difficult to catch this moment: if you hurry, the flowers will dry for a very long time to the detriment of their beauty; if you are late, they will turn from colored to brown. Plucking faded flowers is also not recommended, as this can cause the entire panicle to wither.
IMPORTANT: Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, but excess moisture is also harmful to it. It causes fungal diseases and can rot the roots. A weakened plant is a home for aphids, mites and nematodes.
More about how to protect garden hydrangea from diseases and pests, read.
Watch a video about drying methods:
Why doesn’t it bloom in the garden and what should be done in such cases?
This is perhaps the most important disappointment of the gardener. Well, in the first year - of course, it’s too early for her. And then? The reason may be:
- an incorrectly selected variety for a given region;
- artificial stimulation of a pre-sale copy, as can be seen from the emerging buds;
- a sharp change in the substrate in which the purchased plant was located and the garden soil;
- lack of development of the root system;
- early release of the bush from frost protection in spring;
- frost damage to the upper buds;
- improper pruning of stems, with the removal of flower buds;
- constant plant stay in the shade;
- lack of a fertilizer complex.
Correctly identifying the causes will help to correctly eliminate them, and wait for the solemn moment: the lush flowering of the hydrangea bush.