In search of a worthy answer to the discomfort that arises when working with hand-held milling tools, owners of home carpentry eventually come to the need to purchase a convenient milling table.
VovroKsyu User FORUMHOUSE
I've been thinking about the table for a long time. Especially after manually performing the reservation 22 m of fence.
The purchase option may be expensive; the dimensions of the machine assembled in production conditions, do not correspond to the size of a small home workshop. The optimal solution In this case, there will be self-assembly of the milling table.
Those who want to make a homemade milling machine will find it in the corresponding section of FORUMHOUSE.
How to do milling table
A homemade milling table is the simplest. The main working unit in it is a manual milling machine. Work with hand power tools involves moving the working cutter along the surface of a stationary workpiece (which is not always convenient). Milling table for hand tools allows you to change the processing method and mill in a lightweight way: the hand tool is fixed on the work table, and the workpiece is easily fed to the cutter by hand.
A homemade milling table is the simplest wood processing. The main working unit in it is a manual milling machine. Working with hand-held power tools involves moving the working cutter along the surface of a stationary workpiece (which is not always convenient). A milling table for hand tools allows you to change the processing method and mill in a lightweight way: the hand tool is fixed on the work table, and the workpiece is easily fed to the cutter by hand.
milling table for hand router consists of basic and additional elements. Additional items are not required, but their use makes it possible to make the master’s heavy work as easy as possible, make the design of the device safer, and make the functionality closer to the capabilities of serial installations.
Universal milling table:main structural elements
The main elements of the milling table are indicated in the figure.
Aib User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.
I really needed a mobile milling table. I welded the frame, painted and assembled the structure.
The dimensions of the milling table depend on the dimensions of the parts being processed, as well as on the height of the craftsman himself. The length and width should be slightly smaller than the tabletop, and the height of the bed is 850...900 mm, which corresponds to the most comfortable conditions for standing work. The homemade legs can be made adjustable, which will allow you to compensate for uneven floors or change the height of the bed.
Tabletop for router
The dimensions of the tabletop depend on the size of the parts being processed.
dauto User FORUMHOUSE
In a home workshop, a small table of 500x500 mm is sufficient.
To process relatively long parts (for profiling edges on door frames), you will need a tabletop of the appropriate size. Let's look at the drawing:
For the manufacture of the frame, wood-based materials are most often used, which can effectively dampen vibrations. This could be a countertop made of chipboard, which is used in the manufacture kitchen furniture or a sheet of thick plywood. Here, for example, is a countertop made from chipboard scraps formed after installing a kitchen sink.
Krott64 User FORUMHOUSE
With this tabletop scrap, after some simple modifications, you can do some pretty decent things.
Some people make countertops from metal, others from edged boards, but, as practice shows, chipboard and plywood are always a priority.
Orfo74 User FORUMHOUSE
If I make it, it will be from laminated plywood (I have one like this on my trailer). I have already traveled hundreds of thousands of kilometers under the heat and below zero. Neither salt nor rain spoiled it. And it can still be used, but you need to assemble it either in 2 layers, or make the bottom out of simple plywood.
To make a countertop, you cannot use material that has defects on its surface (knotty boards, etc.).
Mounting plate for hand router
To the mounting plate using threaded connections a hand router is attached. Therefore, its production must be taken with full responsibility. The material from which the plate will be made must be strong enough so that the router does not tear out during operation (the consequences can be imagined). This can be a rectangle made of metal or plywood sheet (but metal is more reliable).
AlekX User FORUMHOUSE
A powerful car has a lot of dope. And if she gets thrown out of the table while working–it won't seem like much.
Dgusepe User FORUMHOUSE
The legs can be made of wood, but it is advisable to make the tabletop from 3 mm metal. For maximum cutter lift.
The length and width of the mounting plate must correspond to the dimensions of the base of the hand router, with which the power tool will be attached to the table.
Longitudinal workpiece stop
The longitudinal stop can be made from a regular sheet of chipboard or from an edged board. The stop must be made movable to ensure the possibility of adjusting the horizontal reach of the cutter. For more precise adjustment, you can attach measuring rulers to the sides of the tabletop.
The design of the locking mechanism, which allows you to secure the longitudinal stop in the required position, is extremely simple. It can consist of two slats with through longitudinal grooves and two threaded fasteners with wings.
Instead of slats, you can use two metal corners, which will last longer and will not deform under the action of clamps.
To prevent dust and chips from interfering with work, it is advisable to equip the longitudinal stop with a dust collector, to which a chip extractor or a small carpenter's vacuum cleaner is connected.
The longitudinal stop can be made double, which significantly expands the functionality of the milling table.
Superkuzen User FORUMHOUSE
The monolithic stop makes it impossible to carry out a lot of operations performed on the milling table, that is, it makes the table of little functionality.
The milling table can serve as a small jointer, if an adjustable difference between the working planes is organized between the two halves of the longitudinal stop. This design allows you to move one half of the stop relative to the other, setting one stop flush with the cutter using thin wooden plates. Adjustment plates are placed under the non-working surface of the stop.
Manual milling machine
From technical characteristics hand tools (power, number of revolutions per minute, etc.) will directly depend on the performance of the milling table. You should choose a router for a milling table based on the expected load. The additional functionality of the machine will be an additional advantage for the master. If you don’t yet have a manual milling cutter, then choose a tool with an adjustable cutter rotation speed and the ability to set the processing depth (plunge-beam milling machines). Very easy to use machines with spindle lock (for easy replacement cutting tool), as well as devices with soft start and quick spindle stop.
We looked at the main elements of a milling table, which will allow the owner to perform the simplest milling operations. In order to expand the functionality of the device, make it universal and increase operational safety, it is necessary to ensure that additional accessories. Let's look at the most common of them.
Longitudinal guide for movable milling carriage
Using a longitudinal guide built into the surface of the table top, you can attach a variety of devices to the milling table: an angular stop with a protractor, a perpendicular stop, etc.
The longitudinal guide can have a different design, but most often it is an aluminum C-shaped profile into which bolts and wing nuts are inserted. This design allows you to quickly install what you need on the milling table. this moment device
By the way, with the help of a C-shaped profile you can fix the longitudinal adjustable stop.
Vertical clamp
The upper clamp increases safety when working with a homemade router and increases processing accuracy. Its fastening can be implemented using the type of clamps for a movable carriage.
If you are planning to make a milling table with your own hands, a video about setting up a universal carpentry workshop for personal use will help you with this.
Lift for router
The vertical reach of the cutter very often has to be adjusted. To perform this adjustment, a milling lift is provided - an adjustable stop that allows you to maintain the milling machine at a given height and, if necessary, quickly change this height.
It is advisable to use a milling elevator in conjunction with submersible milling machines. Their design initially has guides for adjusting the reach of the cutter (unlike machines with a fixed motor).
Lift lift for homemade router may have different designs.
Car jack lift
You can use an old car jack to create a lifting mechanism.
leon42 User FORUMHOUSE
The elevator can be made from a car jack: there is a shelf under the router, and we attach the jack to the shelf. We turn the jack - the router rises or lowers.
For convenience, the jack handle can be moved out of the side wall of the bed. This will make adjustments much easier.
Threaded rod lift
Blackk User FORUMHOUSE
The angle with the threaded rod is screwed to the protrusion on the router, to which the measuring pin is normally attached. The corner for the threaded rod is threaded. By rotating the pin, we seem to screw into the corner and pull the entire router up along the guides. Accordingly, when rotating backwards, we lower the router.
The mechanism consists of a wooden wedge (item 1), in which a through hole is drilled for a screw (item 2). Thanks to the metal plates (item 3), attached to the sides of the wedge and having threaded holes, the wedge moves in a horizontal plane, raising or lowering the milling machine. The handle of the lifting mechanism is located on the side surface of the bed. To reduce the load during lifting, the router is equipped with a homemade roller (item 4).
Turning the router table on and off
All necessary equipment for the electrical part of the milling table is already provided in the design milling machine. The only thing you can add to what you already have is electrical diagram– this is a remote switch and an emergency shutdown button (after all, no one has yet canceled the safety rules during operation).
You can use a very ordinary switch for the router. As for the possibility of quick shutdown: it can be realized by installing an emergency button with a locking mechanism on the table (in which the unlocking is carried out by turning).
Table assembly
We have listed the main and auxiliary elements of the milling table. Each master can determine the order of assembling the device for himself. The only point to pay attention to is the manufacture and installation of the mounting plate.
After a plate of a suitable size is cut from a steel (or plywood) sheet, it is necessary to drill holes in it for attaching the milling machine, a hole for the cutter (its diameter must correspond to the diameter of the hole in the base of the router) and mounting holes (for attaching the plate to the tabletop) .
What tools should you have in your carpentry or furniture workshop? And a video about the design of a homemade milling table and the features of power carpentry tools will help you find answers to questions regarding equipment that is extremely rarely used in a small home workshop.
Welcome to our page "Milling machines photo review"!
In this photo gallery we have collected and decided to show the most different ideas and milling machine implementation options, from simple tabletop machines to full-fledged multifunctional solutions.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product. You can print this page yourself and for free.
The information in the review is structured, there are many diagrams and photographs with explanations.If you have your own interesting photos, ideas, suggestions, then you can send them for inclusion in this review (indicating your information as the author) via or email: . You can write your comments in the reviews on this page.
Primary purpose milling equipment– profile and flat processing of wood, composite materials (MDF, chipboard and others), artificial stone, polymers. Various types are used as an executive instrument.
Using a milling machine, a whole list of technological operations is performed: cutting shaped holes, slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges and ends.
That is, a milling machine helps to quickly make products with beautiful and complex shapes,be it a figured tray or a box:
Or make a complex carved interior element:
Thanks to the variety of cutters, the machine turns into universal tool for wood processing. In fact, you can use it to perform the entire processing cycle: cutting, shaping, and treating the surface until it is ready for coating with protective and decorative agents (varnishes, paints, oils).
1 . Wood milling machine.
Using a milling machine, you can successfully perform various technological operations such as:
straight edge profiling;
milling of shaped profiles;
creating curly ends according to a template;
creation of tenons and grooves of various configurations (such as " dovetail", T-shaped, V-shaped, microspikes and others);
cutting blanks and cutting them into pieces of the required length;
leveling the surface of the workpiece being processed (for example, a slab - a table top);
wood carving and engraving, for which they are actively used and ;
making grooves of both straight and spiral types on the surface of products that have the shape of bodies of revolution (balusters, etc.).
This machine is equipped with a carriage, a powerful 7.5-kilowatt motor and can work with tools with a diameter of up to 300 mm, which makes it extremely versatile.
1. Bed
The frame of the milling table is its support, and the support must first of all be stable.
2. Engine (milling cutter) and options for its installation
Types of motors or milling machines - There are two types of drives used in milling machines:
Directly permanently installed engines (or trimmers).
For example, the engine 
Or hand cutters
For example, as on this photo hand router used :
Functionally, the working surface must first be rigid - always maintain flatness and not sag. And secondly, ensure good sliding of the workpiece over the surface without damaging it (do not scratch).
Therefore, the working surface of a milling machine can be made of cast iron, steel, or aluminum.
For home workshops and mobile tables, countertops made of laminated chipboard, laminated MDF or plywood are usually used.
Options for installing and fastening the router in the work surface:
Option 1. Stationary version with fastening to a removable plate for convenient dismantling of the router.
A solid aluminum plate can be used, as in the original Festool CMS base:
as well as in homemade
Or compact aluminum /
:
For this option use different designs elevator
ELEVATOR option with with a lever having a vertical axis:
ELEVATOR variant with a disk or lever having a horizontal axis:
These tables are compact in size, light weight and can be installed on any work surface.
For example: American .
Has a steel base, a table top made of
Or a steel base (as in milling machines) ):
With folded legs, the festul table turns into desktop version:
, and tires, ,.
For example, based on Kreg components:
Examples where a guide profile (combined rail) is used and clamping 
You can also use the side surfaces of the table to attach them to outside tools or accessories necessary for work.
Admirers of the INCRA brand are also trying to improve beneficial features table.
The stationary table can simply be a router table like the ones shown above.
But it can also be multifunctional, universal, combined with a workbench, assembly table, stationary saw, etc.
INCRA and KREG accessories are actively used in the design of tables.
Eg:
Large work surface universal table on the one hand, it expands possibilities, and on the other hand, it saves both space and resources.
:
Tabletop router table: 
Milling table with rotating table top:
Homemade elevator:
Another simpler option:
Side support:
Below is a typical sketch of a milling table with a large number of useful drawers.
All dimensions are in inches (1 inch = 2.54 cm).
Table top:
Parallel stop: 
Table stand:
and its frame:
We hope our photo review will be useful to you.
Agree, implementation options Milling Machine- an incredible amount! There are as many solutions as there are Masters.
We work with pleasure!
Team "Arsenal Masters RU"
Look
Look
in the catalog and
The presence of a milling machine will greatly simplify the process and accuracy of product processing. It can be purchased at finished form in a specialized store, or you can save your own savings and make a table with your own hands.
With this device you can cut not only different types of trees, but also plastic and wood boards. You can also use it to independently make profile cuts, grooves, tenons and slots.
With a DIY router table, you can equip your workshop with a practical woodworking machine. Everything you need for efficient work- this is to attach the manual router itself to the product.
Type designs, the milling table can be:
- mounted. This option is quite practical and easy to use. To do this, a separate block of the unit is attached to the sawing machine with clamps on the side. This design allows you to save free space. If necessary, it can be easily and quickly removed and left aside;
- portable. This option is in great demand, especially if the workshop small sizes. Also, this type of design is suitable for those who often change their place of residence or take a router with them to construction sites;
- stationary. This option is suitable for a spacious workshop. This is very convenient model. Since with a stationary product you can equip a well-thought-out workplace.
Material
To make a milling table, you can use various materials:
Each individual option has its own advantages. Wood is characterized by high strength, reliability and durability. But you need to know how to work with this material. It is more difficult to process manually, unlike DPP or MDF. And natural wood is much more expensive.
As for chipboard and MDF, these materials are more affordable in terms of price. They can be easily processed with hand and electric tools and have good technical characteristics.
Drawing of a homemade wood milling table
Before you start making a milling table, you need to make a drawing. It indicates the exact dimensions of each individual element and manufacturing materials. As for making the drawing, you can make it yourself, you can use special programs on the computer or, order from a furniture company. Last option the most reliable. Since the specialists will make a competent calculation of all the details, with an accuracy of one millimeter.
Tools
For the manufacture of homemade design router table you will need the following tools:
- hacksaw;
- electric jigsaw;
- sanding machine or sandpaper;
- drill;
- chisel;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.
Advice: Using power tools will greatly speed up the process of making and assembling the product.
From materials you will need:
- Chipboard or MDF. To avoid sagging during work, you should choose lumber with a cross-section of 3.6 cm. For the side parts, chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm is suitable;
- plywood, textolite, metal (production of mounting plate);
- The router is purchased at a specialized store.
An easy way to make a table for a hand router
Making a countertop
First you need to prepare the parts for the table. They are cut with a jigsaw from selected lumber, according to the drawing.
Advice: detailing can be ordered from a specialized furniture company. Here they will help you immediately create a competent drawing and select lumber. The cost of the furniture company's services is fully justified by the quality and precision of the work. All you need next is to simply assemble the product according to the diagram in your workshop.
The manufacturing process of a milling table is carried out in the following sequence:
Important: whether to do it for the table design or not is everyone’s personal choice. The table top with the router installed can simply be secured between two tables.
How to make and install a plate yourself
Since the tabletop of a homemade milling table is quite thick, the mounting plate should have a small thickness. Then you can make maximum use of the cutting tool reach.
Attention: plate with minimum thickness must be as strong and rigid as possible.
It can be made of metal or of a material that is in no way inferior in strength, for example, PCB. The thickness of the PCB should vary between 4-8 mm.
The plate manufacturing process is as follows:
- After checking the drawing, cut out a rectangular piece from a sheet of textolite.
- In the center of a rectangular piece make a hole. Its dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the hole in the router sole.
- We connect the plate with the router base and the table.
- For fixing plates to the tabletop making clamps for the machine, which are located at the four corners. These dimensions must strictly correspond to the holes located on the tool itself.
Work area equipment
After manufacturing and assembling the milling table, it is recommended to think over a competent work area. To maintain the accuracy of milling processing, it is worth installing on the tabletop:
- guides. They can be made from chipboard or from the same materials as the countertop. The guides are installed at right angles and fastened with four oblique stops.
- clamps. They can be made in the form of a wooden comb or from a ball bearing required sizes and weight.
Finishing
After constructing a milling table with your own hands, to give the product an aesthetic appearance and to extend its service life, you need all the working surfaces:
- polish;
- polish;
- bottom and sides - paint;
- open with varnish.
The electrical part of the product must be covered with a metal sleeve.
Photo
The result of your work may be a table that looks like one of the following
Useful video
A detailed description of the manufacturing process can be seen in the following video:
Conclusion
In conclusion, it is worth noting that the process of manufacturing a milling table is a rather responsible process. If you are confident that you can handle this task, you can save your own savings and make the product yourself. To do this you will need: stock up on a well-designed drawing, necessary materials and tools and free time.
In contact with
We offer you tabletops, plates, and ready-made kits for milling and saw tables. All of the above is produced on CNC machines, i.e. factory-made!
Minimum cost ready-made kit 16500 RUR, which consists of:
-tabletop made of laminated plywood 800x600x27 mm. with profile for working with additional tools
-aluminum parallel fence with dust extraction and sliding cheeks
-plate for any model of router (stainless steel/steel with engraved ruler)
Other configurations or self-assembly from components are possible!
Shipping to the regions of TK! Pickup from Klinsky district. M.O.
For pickup, get a 3% discount on all products!
Ready-made kits, tabletops, underframes, fixtures and much more (clamps, clamps, cutters, etc.) on my website: frezer-stol.
The photo shows tabletops, plates for routers, circular saws and ready-made mobile kits!
Tabletop characteristics:
Plywood - GRADE 1, furniture grade, smooth lamination on both sides.
The thickness of the coating (film) has been increased from 120/120 to 220/220 g/sq.m., which makes it more wear-resistant to abrasion and moisture-resistant.
For milling tables there is a milled platform for steel plates (size 350 x 250 mm, other plate sizes are possible) on which they are mounted different models hand routers or circular saws!
Adjustment pins are installed in the corners to level the plate into a plane. We have plates available for Triton, Elmos, Makita, Hitachi, Bosch, etc. as well as some other models. There are also universal plates, stainless steel top/bottom steel, without holes for mounting a router with a marking scale and ruler, for the possibility of independently marking and installing your own router. The accuracy of the metric ruler applied by laser on the plate, according to GOST..
In addition, we have blades for CIRCULAR saws, with or without mounting holes for some models (for self-installation)!
There are countertops measuring 800x600 with a stainless lining and mounting holes for a specific cutter model. There is a photo showing an example of a table top for Makita 2300 (2301).
The cost of the plate is 350x250x6 mm. for milling cutters:
stainless steel/metal/laser marking of ruler - 3500 rub.
There are also side parallel stops for them.
Full kits are available, which include:
table top,
plate for router, (circular)
- standard rip fence,
-parallel aluminum stop on the moving shaft
-metal underframe (bed) with brake wheel supports.
For those who like everything in one, there is a tabletop 800x1200 for installing a router and a circular saw in one tabletop, with one common rip fence. I'm also attaching a photo.
In addition, there are blanks for the base of tabletops 800x600x27 mm. For self-assembly in which all the necessary milling for the profile and window for the plate have already been made. The cost of such blanks starts from 3500 rubles.
A milling table will make your work easier and help increase the accuracy of workpiece processing. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared quite detailed information for you step by step instructions for making a table.
The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and implement it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, you will get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.
Decide on the size of the working surface, based on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop, incorporating upgradeability into the design. Work on it and little by little bring it to mind.
Make a table top
The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate placed on carpentry trestles or between pedestals. The device costs pennies and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood with a thickness of 19-25 mm. Better fit a plastic-coated panel that provides less frictional resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during use.
Set the exact right angle of cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to size and sand the ends.
Cutting diagram: 1 - main plate; 2 — support base; 3 — front wall of the stop; 4 — gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 — drawer (2 pcs.); 6 — side bar; 7 — connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Advice. Measure the thickness before cutting sheet material, often different from the standard. Amend the drawings to eliminate problems when assembling the structure.
Remove the plastic cover from the router base.
Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.
Place the pad so that later the main router controls are closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the cover with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling holes for the mounting screws.
Determine the center location for the sole with equally spaced screws.
For a base with asymmetrically placed screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.
Mark a mark with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:
- S = D / 2 - (D - H)
Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.
Mark the locations of the mounting screws.
Drill holes for mounting and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.
Cut out the bends with an electric jig saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly short of the marking line. Then move the saw a little closer contour line— the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the canvas. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.
Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.
Glue all the pieces together and secure them with additional screws. Select screws that are longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the slab.
1 — side strip for fastening with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 — countersunk guide holes; 4 — front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base
Fasten the table to the trestles with clamps, secure the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.
Make a solid base
The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on a rack, and for work it is fixed on a workbench. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the tabletop and get a full-fledged machine.
Cut the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for the 820 mm high table, or change them so that the table top is level with other equipment.
Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 — inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base
Place the tabletop with the back side facing up. Install the side panels sequentially and screw them with screws, pre-drilling the guide holes. Secure the base, place the frame front side down, align the right corners and install the two back panels.
Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the housing using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads no closer than 20 mm from the edges.
1 — side stand; 2 — wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 — internal stand; 5 - rear panel
Use the free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.
Embed the mounting plate
Get a longer cutter reach by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate.
Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from the sheet and place it on the workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. Using a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate, using the plastic trim as a template. Remove the sole, use a countersink or a large drill to make indentations for the caps.
Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and use a hole saw to make a hole at the mark.
Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Straighten the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.
Secure thin boards around the marked outline with clamps.
Clamp the copy cutter with the bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer adjustment of the router and make the final pass.
Drill through holes for the screws and widen them from the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts with epoxy glue, aligning with the screws.
Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, place it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink from the front side. Attach the part to the router base, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the tabletop; if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.
Improve your focus
For faster and more convenient machine setup, upgrade the parallel side fence and add a rotary fence to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum T-profile guides into the surface of the slab. To make cutouts in the tabletop, use a router or circular saw with groove disc.
Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, and countersink them. Place the parts in the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the countersunk screws.
Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, select hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.
Install a guide profile in the front stop bar to secure clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.
Cut a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, secure it to the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter fitting and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the router table.
Add a safety shield made from plywood scraps and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.
To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangents and make cuts with a jigsaw.
Make homemade clamps and clamps necessary for milling small elements.
The comb clamp can be made from maple wood, choosing a section with a straight grain pattern. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular saw:
- Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
- Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
- Make a cut.
- Pull the workpiece back with a hand pusher.
- Turn the board 180° and saw through the other side.
- Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
- Move the stop back again and make cuts throughout the entire workpiece.
Secure the clamps to the guide using bolts and wing nuts.
1 - stopper; 2 — comb clamp; 3 — protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - pipe for vacuum cleaner
Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially in areas where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat it with oil.
1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop
Let's summarize the project
Materials needed:
- Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
- Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
- Several dozen screws.
- Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
- Wood glue and epoxy.
- M6 bolts with nuts.
The ability to take your time and think through each step, to accurately mark and cut out blanks, or the desire to learn this came in handy. The result is a high-quality milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.