Waterproofing plastic windows is one of the required installation stages. External and internal sealing of installed windows Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Not so long ago metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of “elite” element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems are no longer so expensive and have become widely used used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones in terms of insulation, sound insulation, and By by matching all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just in appearance, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during renovations, the issue is almost always clearly resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, currently engaged in their assembly in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large production volumes they can afford it. But you can often find small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and in today’s times this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by doing the installation yourself?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to have a good understanding of the process technology and immediately prepare the necessary Consumables. And, of course, be extremely careful when installing and strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already stood the test of time, and it would be inappropriate to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

First of all, the necessary measurements are taken and an order is placed for the window structure.
After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
The next stage is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary depending on the chosen method of window installation, which will be discussed below.
The most important stage is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its alignment vertically and horizontally, leaving the required gaps, and fastening it to the walls.
Next, the seams between the frame and the opening are sealed, and water and vapor barriers are provided.
The next step is to install the ebb sill outside and the window sill inside the room.
The final adjustment of the window mechanisms and installation of the necessary fittings are carried out.
When finishing is done in the room, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main methods of fastening plastic windows

Before you start working on your own, you need to understand a little theory.

Firstly, someone who does not accurately understand its structure should not undertake window installation. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Opening window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, it can be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame using special fittings that allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost that divides the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material used is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly in the frame profile (with a “blind” part of the window) glass unit It can be single-chamber (two glasses) or double-chamber (3 glasses).

5 – Fitting elements. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 – PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed simultaneously with the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if positions coincide with the top picture, their numbers are saved):

— The frame profile (item 1) has several air chambers(usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metallic profile(pos. 7). This item etc I guess T t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

— The structure of the sash profile (item 2) is approximately the same. The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (item 8)

— The glass unit in the frame or in the window sash is held in place by glazing beads (item 9).

— The diagram additionally shows the installation of a window slope made of PVC panels. Pos. 10 – starting profile, pos. eleven - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, different shape cross section profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window, but still typical diagram remains the same.

More details about this, and how to correctly approach the choice of its optimal model, are described in a special publication on our portal.

Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchor fastenings, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) pre-attached to the window.

A. In the first case (in the figure on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastening element is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

The window in the opening is installed much more accurately.
The fastening strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible for large window sizes (2000 mm or more on any side), or where high external loads(especially windy places, high floors, etc.)

Flaws:

The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For an inexperienced master this is an extra problem, since when dismantling the beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. Due to the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
Violating the integrity of the profile (drilling through it) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and in certain conditions can provoke.
This type of installation takes more time.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets mounted on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these plates are attached with dowels or anchors to the wall (shown schematically in the top figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

Such installation is easier and faster, especially if standard anchor plates are used, which fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end part of the profile.

The integrity of the profile is not compromised - there is no need to drill through it.
There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - it can be installed assembled. (Because of this, this method is sometimes called “no decompression”). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons. Firstly, most often windows are delivered from the manufacturer in disassembled form. Secondly, installing an assembled window with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, is very difficult and dangerous due to its large mass. And thirdly, it is still more convenient to fill the remaining cracks from the outside, provide external waterproofing and install the drip lining with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one, which has already been mentioned - in terms of installation strength, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

It is immediately appropriate to make one very important remark. Apartment owners, one way or another, will have to contact a company that manufactures windows to place an order. The optimal situation would be when a manufacturer’s representative comes and carries out everything independently necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the likelihood of an error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to understand the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window, for some reason, suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the company’s employees, and the customer will have the right to demand the production of the correct window design.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, measuring the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If you decide to take the measurements yourself, you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

IN panel high-rise buildings most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way external slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
IN brick houses usually there is no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the picture on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measuring a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and on top the window frame should be at a quarter of 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there should still be a gap to fill it polyurethane foam.

This means that the measurement is carried out as follows:

Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Considering that the window should overlap them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, add 30 ÷ 50 mm to the resulting distance. This way the required window width is obtained in advance.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with size IN, which shows the distance between the slopes near the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side there should be at least 20 mm left for sealing with polyurethane foam. It is possible to adjust the ordered width, since there is a certain range of window opening to a quarter.

Now about the window height. The entry of the frame into the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, does not happen in openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. To install them, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers install it during the order process, but it never hurts to check it.

Important element structures - substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the top quarter to the point where the inclined ebb (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

15 ÷ 25 mm is added to this value - this is the frame extending to the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. There should also be a gap under it for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required window height.

For control, measurements are taken inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense to remove the window sill altogether, since it will soon change anyway). The resulting height of the opening will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm at the top and 5 ÷ 20 mm at the bottom for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if you do not plan to install a substitution profile (which in itself is a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order the window sill, ebb and flow and slopes.

The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width – the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

Window sill length - maximum opening width ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and internal wall plus the desired distance for the window sill to protrude outwards (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a straight opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a straight opening is much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - A).

The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two values of the installation gap WITH. As before, we take it as 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the installation gap at the top (20 mm) and the thickness of the installation profile (30 mm) and the 10 mm gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the installation gap from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a quarter window.

If the measurements have been completed, you can proceed to place your order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it is better to call a surveyor to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight misalignment of the opening that has arisen due to shrinkage of the building.

Preparing tools and consumables

While the window is being manufactured, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare tools and consumables for installation.

Tools and materials you will need:

	Rotary hammer with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a hammer chisel		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Construction level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer, for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood hacksaw
	Anchor plates - if the “without unpacking” or combined fastening method is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm – for anchor plates or Ø10 mm – when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (PSUL)		Thermal and vapor barrier tape PPE, preferably foil
	Vapor permeable diffuse tape		Polyurethane foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should be enough.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table requires some explanation:

I.First of all, let’s figure out the number of fastening points. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of fastening points. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blind window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, three basic quantities appear, A, IN And WITH.

A– the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fastening points. Be sure to place two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. Value A is taken to be from 150 to 180 mm.

IN– the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

— for “white” PVC windows – no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made from colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

WITH– the distance from the impost to the fastening point towards the larger sash area (if two wide sash are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme before your eyes and knowing linear dimensions ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to immediately sketch out a diagram of the placement of fastening points - this will be a good help when carrying out the work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fastening the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are used. In this case, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or walls made of natural stone. Dowel nails are preferable on walls made of materials that do not differ high degree compressive strength, for example from lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They are also suitable for hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case where installation on anchor plates will be used, two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, you will need the plates themselves - and it is better to purchase them from the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must exactly fit the PVC profile. To attach the plate, you will also need self-tapping screws with a 4 × 25 mm drilling point - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fastening elements must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For different wall materials it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4 × 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the flashing and auxiliary elements for installing the window sill. They are also needed if you plan to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it will be enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And it will be attached from below when installing the external ebb. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely insulate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when doorway with a quarter, and it is advisable to glue it along the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
Polyurethane foam: best option– purchase cylinders with “pro” foam, the use of which will require a special gun. It does not give “inadequate” expansion, like the cheap ones sold in spray bottles, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame struts. In addition, it is of much higher quality, more durable, and can be applied in the right places- much simpler, without unnecessary cost overruns.
Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. At correct installation If there are any gaps, they will be very insignificant, that is, large quantity no sealant required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase film with which he will cover pieces of furniture, walls, and floors in the room where the window will be installed - the work will be quite dusty at first.

Removing the old window

After the window is manufactured and delivered to the work site, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and labor-intensive, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	The largest sashes are removed first. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - you can remove sashes or doors along with glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window “plays” or is very rotten, then for reasons of basic safety the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended to immediately remove all dismantled parts from the work area - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and get injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then remove it first. If you were unable to unscrew the old hinge fasteners (and most often this happens), you will have to apply force - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually suspended on hinges from which they can be removed simply by lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents have been removed - you can proceed to dismantling the frame.
	First it is removed central pillar– impost. To make this easier, the import is sawed down closer to the bottom of the frame. You need to saw with a hacksaw - in some videos, craftsmen flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. Under no circumstances should you repeat after them - this is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower frame jumper is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to saw it through using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place where it is attached to the vertical stand, then you can help yourself there with a pry bar
	After this, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower lintel, dismantle the window sill. It can be knocked down with a hammer from the street side.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Move to a vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged at the top and bottom. Then it is better to move it a little away from the wall and also saw it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side no longer rests on anything, and should come off without any problems.
	Last vertical stand The frame should also not resist if it is carefully pryed with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the frame posts and the wall, you have to use a hammer drill to chop off the plastered slopes.
	The last stage is to clean the vacated window opening from the old seal, construction waste and so on. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All waste is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to adjusting the opening - removing defects in the concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a hammer drill, installing a chisel-spatula on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 mm high, right at the place where the window sill will be installed.

After removing the dust, you should not be lazy and go over the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the polyurethane foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If you plan to install a window “with unpacking,” then it is advisable to stipulate even when placing the order that it be delivered disassembled (and this most often happens). If not, you will have to disassemble it yourself.

First, the glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pryed off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appears, it is expanded by carefully moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the locking part. Then all that remains is to place your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead so that there is no confusion when reinstalling it. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - a pencil mark from a PVC surface is very difficult to wipe off.

Retrieved. The most convenient way to do this is with a special suction cup, but if you don’t have one, you can do it this way. Be careful - the glass unit is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the glass unit. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that they will fit in the same place during installation.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove double glazing from a PVC window

There is no need to remove the glass unit from the opening sash - just remove the sash itself. This is not difficult to do. To begin with, the sash handle is moved to the “closed” position - it looks down. The decorative casing is removed from both hinges, top and bottom - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After this, the sash handle is moved to the “open” position. The door tilts up onto itself and is then removed with a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as the dismantled double-glazed windows, is temporarily removed from working area to avoid accidental damage during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

The next step in preparation is drilling holes to mount the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up diagram for placing the fastening points, the centers of the holes are marked and lightly marked. A metal drill Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, quickly passing through the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests on the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, one insignificant obstacle remains in the form of the internal PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and even edges.

The presence of a wildcard profile is checked. It is attached from below with a regular locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not there, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise filling the cavities of this profile with polyurethane foam in advance, about a day before installing the window, so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

Removed from the outside of the frame protective covering. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun even a little. And in general, it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. This coating can be removed from the inside later.

If there will be a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are installed on 2 × 16 mm self-tapping screws, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with pressing the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and to ensure reliable fixation of the mesh, as well as installation and removal of it by moving it upward until it stops in the upper brackets.

The last preparatory step in this case is gluing PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Typically, the PSUL is placed in such a way that there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter.

B. If the window is to be installed on anchor plates, the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

— Firstly, you don’t have to unglaze the blind sash - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will be somewhat more complicated due to large mass window.

— Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended fastening points. They have serrated or smooth hooks that should fit perfectly into the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to apply moderate force, for example, by knocking it with a mounting hammer, and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate into the profile groove...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - it, passing through the reinforcing metal profile, will reliably hold the plate in the installed place. The plates are attached perpendicular to the frame, and then bent so that they fit into the window when installed. doorway.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, you can make recesses in advance with a hammer drill. The goal is to reach the wall material, knocking off the unreliable plaster layer (if there is one), and make it easier for yourself further work for finishing slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be covered with finishing.

The remaining preparation steps do not differ from those about co which were mentioned above.

Installation and fastening of windows in doorway

Very carefully, taking all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against the frame tipping outward, it is placed in the window opening. If the opening has quarters, then the frame should fit tightly to them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately align the frame in the vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. One good piece of advice I can give is to temporarily fix the window approximately in the center from above onto the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and the work will be much easier.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower frame jumper - that’s why a tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical collapse of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct positioning of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if you have the opportunity to purchase them, then this would be an ideal option. They “work in pairs”, engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to the other, you can set the desired height with an accuracy of up to a millimeter.

You can, of course, get by with wooden wedges or pads, but this often requires cutting them, replacing them, installing several pieces in a “pyramid” pattern, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can proceed to fastening it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen It is often practiced to make a hole in the wall directly through already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% confident in the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the steadiness of his hand. It happens that the hammer drill encounters an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not stopped, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole directly through the frame is quite dangerous.

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a hammer drill, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case you will have to put the window back in its previous position and wedge it, but with the drilled holes this will not be difficult to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared socket...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, hammered with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without “fanatical” force so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel-nails are used, the plastic part is inserted first, and then the spacer nail is carefully driven in.

...followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant to be sure.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even simpler. They are finally given the required bend so that they fit tightly to the surface of the window opening. Directly through their holes, holes are drilled in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the “without unpacking” method

The standards specify two fasteners per plate, although, judging by numerous photographs on the Internet, many craftsmen limit themselves to one. Probably, with two, it’s more reliable, and they’re not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow installing two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and ebb.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided for the sake of economy ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive “household” polyurethane foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such foam has a very significant expansion force, which can even lead to slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window must be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling the openings with high-quality “professional” foam will not entail such consequences. Using a pistol with a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out down up. Under no circumstances should there be any internal cavities left - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which allows you to economically control its consumption. Special attention– narrow cavities, for example, under a mounting profile.

While the window is disassembled, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, making certain adjustments if necessary. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting is an excellent insulation material, but very vulnerable. She must be protected from sun rays, and from excessive humidity. This should be done immediately after it has completely hardened (in about a day) and the excess is cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay the installation of external slopes, which should completely hide the frozen layer of foam from direct contact with ultraviolet rays. Solutions here can be different, for example, plastering or covering with panels.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free release of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of destructive effects when freezing and expanding.

And on the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro- and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow direct penetration of water into the insulation layer from the inside, nor penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installation of window sill and ebb

A. Window sill installation can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or foam, on special brackets or or by using homemade fastenings, made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized plasterboard profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the design of the frame itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically to mate with the plane of the window sill. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedging it from below to fit tightly to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and ebb is given. Pay attention to the location film membranes.

Let's consider the option of installing a window sill on polyurethane foam, as one of the most common.

Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight recess into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a fine-tooth hacksaw.
Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, ensure that the panel inserted into its designated slot on the frame or mounting profile is in an exactly horizontal position.
Now the window sill must be loaded so that when filling the space under it with foam, it does not move from its established position. The load can be given by placing, for example, containers of water on the windowsill evenly along the entire length.

The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with polyurethane foam. She will and thermal insulator, and will act as glue.
It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

If there is a small gap left between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next step is to install the tide outside. An approximate diagram is shown in the figure.

The low tide mounting area is already covered vapor permeable membrane that completely covered the polyurethane foam. It is recommended to glue a PSUL strip along the plane of the opening - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, in increments of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted on an overlay, and then it makes sense to coat its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge fits into a special groove in the mounting profile from below - then you won’t have to worry about rainwater getting under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by hollowing out grooves for this. Then it will be easy to seal them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, you need to bring the window into fully working state.

The double-glazed windows are inserted into place using the plastic pads that were originally there. According to the numbering, the glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
If there is a need, an accurate one is made (how to do this is in a special article on the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, the hinges are covered with decorative covers.

Essentially, the window installation is complete. Only the issue of installation remained unsolved - but this is a topic for separate consideration, which is also given attention on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - detailed Video instruction for installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Today, many people have the opportunity to build a cottage or country house. Buildings are constructed from different materials: brick, concrete, wood (logs, beams). In such houses, a problem often arises: how to make a window box?

To answer the question posed, it is necessary to understand the existing methods and methods of producing such work. The type of box installed for a window depends on such parameters of the constructed building as its shrinkage and the type of material used in construction (logs, laminated veneer lumber).

When constructing houses there is high pressure on the main foundation and there is no “sediment” wooden building not threatening. This is one of the main advantages of wooden structures, the weight of which is much less than their brick and concrete counterparts.

But it is impossible to completely get rid of the small shrinkage of the house. This indicator depends on the type of material used. If well-dried timber is used during construction, then shrinkage is minimal.

In cottages made of this profiled material, almost immediately after the completion of the construction of walls and roofs, you can begin finishing and begin installing windows. In such a building, movement and shrinkage is almost unnoticeable, about 1.15%, which absolutely does not affect the geometric parameters of the main materials used in construction.

If a solid profiled beam (log) is used, then even when using dry material, the shrinkage and movement of the building will reach a value of 2.6%.

If freshly cut logs were used during construction, then the shrinkage of such a cottage can be 9-11%.

These processes stop 9-12 months after the completion of construction work, and during the life of the building, its further movement can be about 5%. If we look at the material most used in building a house, a cylindrical beam or log with natural moisture, it turns out that when it is used, shrinkage and movement will reach 3.5%.

You should understand the importance of these numbers when installing windows. Note that for 1 meter of opening height, 1% shrinkage corresponds to 1 cm. This figure is used to determine the gap between the window frame and bottom the top log of this opening.

What do you need to consider to make a window box?

Figure 1. Installation diagram of a massive block.

Its assembly is carried out in order to separate the wall of the constructed house from the window opening and the window itself, so that shrinkage does not affect their geometry. The box is necessary element to protect the window from bending and destruction. If this is not done, the opening will become skewed and the entire structure will collapse. In this case, damage to the load-bearing walls of the house is possible.

The process of preparing and installing the box itself is quite complicated, so it is better to have it done by professionals. Do-it-yourself in this matter is harmful - with unskilled calculations and self-installation of the window frame, the window almost always becomes distorted and destroyed.

Let's look at existing methods for doing this work. Window boxes come in the following types:

with end tenon;
using a mortgage block;
with a groove in the frame (“tenon-monolith”).

Below the technology of work will be described and diagrams of all the above types of window frames will be given.

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Application of an end tenon

When using this option, a tenon (vertical ridge) is cut out at the ends of the opening. This is done before the box is installed when the house is built. The product is assembled directly in window opening. To do this, grooves are made on the sides of the box corresponding to the dimensions of the ridge. Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

first you need to install the bottom board of the window sill;
cover the spikes with a roll-type seal;
The side parts of the window frame are put on it: first, one such board is installed vertically, and then the upper horizontal bar, then the second side part of the box is mounted.

The edges of the installed product, when viewed from the window side, can be either smooth (flat) or have a protrusion for more dense installation of window blocks. The box will be thicker inside the house than on the outside. If a flat box was used, then after installing the window it will be necessary to install slopes to hide the gaps formed along the edges.

After installing such a box, you will get a tight, vertically sliding connection, where the side parts of the window frame itself will serve as guides for the movement of the timber (logs).

For such a system, the use of mounting foam or additional fasteners is not recommended. An exception can be made only for the window sill board, which must be rigidly fixed to the lower beam using a connection through a roll-type seal. When the box is ready, you can install a window block with ebb on it, and install platbands on both sides of the structure. They are secured with nails or screws.

This type of window box can be made in the form monolithic block. To do this, you can use the following types of material:

Solid wood from coniferous species, made without a quarter on the outside, having natural moisture, without sanding, unplaned.
A profiled massive piece of the same wood species, well dried in a chamber, sanded and planed. Such an array is made with an outer quarter for window installation. When using it, you will not have to finish the slopes.

When preparing the opening and making the box in the log house, a tenon is made at the vertical ends. The array is inserted onto it through a laid seal stretched over the made ridge. On the top part, a “top” is mounted in a quarter, which is secured with nails or screws to the racks. Such a window box can have a window sill. Often a threshold is placed on it in the form of a closed contour around the perimeter of the window. The installation diagram of a massive block is shown in Fig. 1.

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Use when installing an embedded block

This option is carried out as follows:

A vertical groove is selected along the entire length of the window opening (from its ends).
Take a block with a cross-section of 50 x 50 mm and a length less than the height of the opening and place it in the groove made without the use of fasteners so that it does not rest against the upper crown when shrinking. This block plays the role of a guide, providing free vertical movements and eliminating such horizontal movements.
The window frame is attached to the block using screws, which should not be long enough to come out on the other side.
A roll-type seal is placed between the ends and the product.

Unlike the previous option, the window frame itself must be completely assembled in advance and mounted in the opening in finished form. Its thickness may be less than in the version described above, since there are no grooves in it.

After installing the box, a window is inserted into it, the frame of which is connected with screws to the installed frame, and the gaps are filled with foam (it cannot be used to fill the distance between the ends and the window frame).

At the last stage of work, the installation of platbands (external and internal) is carried out. They should hide the gaps between the ends and the frame. This installation option can be used for all types wooden houses, with the exception of buildings made of calibrated logs whose diameter exceeds 0.35 meters. The material used is usually unsanded and unplaned edged timber with natural moisture. After installing the windows, it is necessary to install and finish the slopes.

One of the most vulnerable places in the house, where heat loss most often occurs, is the windows. Of course, it is impossible to provide ideal heat and noise insulation in this place, but everyone can reduce the noise level and heat loss to a minimum. The thing is that the cause of increased noise and heat loss is the cracks in the windows. This applies not only to old wooden windows, but also to more modern metal-plastic ones. We will talk about how and what to cover cracks in windows in this article.

Causes of cracks in windows

As one wise man said, it is better to eliminate the cause of the disease than to constantly treat the consequences. The same should be done with cracks in windows. To do this, it is enough to understand the reason for their appearance and eliminate it once and for all.

Reason one: crooked installation

It's no secret that the level of professionalism of the craftsman determines how durable and reliable a particular structure will be. It's the same with windows. Mistakes at the window installation stage lead to drafts coming from under the window and noise from the street preventing you from sleeping.

It is almost impossible to control the quality of work. To do this you need to have certain knowledge. But something can still be done. You just need to check how well all the gaps between window frame and the opening. This can be done using a simple lighter, bringing its flame to the joints. You should also pay attention to outside window. The places where the frame adjoins the opening must also be reliably caulked or blown with foam, and their surface must be painted over or puttied. The same is true on the inside.

Reason two: wear of the seal

Unfortunately, timeless building materials do not yet exist, and during use, cracks appear in the windows. And in combination with installation errors, their service life will only decrease.

The same places where the window frame meets the opening are problematic. If for some reason the sealing materials have not been painted or plastered, they will quickly wear out under the influence of temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation, wind and precipitation. Polyurethane foam, even the one that is intended for external works, is distorted, gradually exposing the voids between the window and the wall. Foam rubber or other sealant dries out, crumbles and blows out, thereby widening the cracks. To extend the life of the seal, it is enough to carry out an inspection every two to three years and maintain the integrity of the protective layer. It is best to do this in the spring, when it is already warm and there is no precipitation.

Reason three: wear of the frame and fittings

Just like the seal, window frames and accessories have their own resource. Over time, the sashes begin to fit poorly to the frame, resulting in cracks appearing. This is especially true for wooden windows. A typical problem with wooden frames is the wood drying out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. But in metal-plastic windows, the rubber seal on the sashes most often fails.

It is impossible to avoid wear and tear, but it is possible to extend the service life. It is enough to carry out regular seasonal inspection and maintenance of windows. First of all, this means painting wooden windows and adjusting the fittings so they don’t dangle.

How to seal cracks in windows

Despite the fact that today most windows are made of metal-plastic, their owners after a certain time are faced with the problem of cracks in these ultra-modern and reliable windows. As for wooden windows, cracks are their inevitable companions. We will look at how you can get rid of cracks below.

How to remove gaps between the frame and the wall

If during installation the master did not apply a protective layer to the foamed areas, then over time the foam will collapse and gaps will inevitably appear. A gap between a window and a wall, a window and a window sill is a fairly common occurrence in such cases.

To eliminate them you will need:

narrow spatula;
long screwdriver;
rags or a regular rag;
newspaper or plastic film;
gloves.

Materials you will need:

White Spirit;
polyurethane foam;
frost-resistant acrylic sealant; you can also use rubber-bitumen or polyurethane roofing sealant.

Important! Under no circumstances should silicone sealant be used. Under the influence of temperatures, it rolls down and becomes unusable, thereby exposing the foamed cracks.

Having acquired everything we need, we get to work. We start with preparation, namely eliminating the old foam. To do this we do the following:

Unscrew 2 - 3 self-tapping screws on the low tide, if any.
We begin to clean the gutter and substitution profile. Take a screwdriver and pry out the old brown foam. It crumbles quite easily, and the remains are blown out.
Using the same screwdriver, we clean out the foam at the joints of the walls and window profile. To be safe, you can use a brush to remove any remaining residue.

Important! At this stage, you will need another person for backup so that you do not accidentally fall out of the window.

Having finished with the preparation, we proceed directly to sealing the cracks. To do this you need to do the following:

We take a balloon with foam and blow it into all the joints and cracks. To process narrow, hard-to-reach crevices, the feed tube spout can be flattened.

Without waiting for the foam to dry completely, we fix the ebb.
Let the foam dry for 24 hours.
Using a regular stationery knife, cut off the excess foam.

We take a bottle of sealant and cut off its spout at an angle to make it more convenient to fill seams with it at different angles.
Gradually squeezing out the sealant, apply it over the foam;

Important! At this stage, you will need another person for backup so that you do not accidentally fall out of the window. Remove excess sealant on the spout using a rag soaked in white spirit. The same rag can be used to remove any remaining sealant from the frame.

Using a narrow spatula, level the sealant flush from the window towards the street and leave to dry.
After the sealant has dried, it should be painted with regular alkyd paint to protect it from external influences.

Particular attention should be paid to the area under low tide. This is the most inconvenient place, so some skill will be required. But if everything is done correctly, the gap between the window and the sill will be eliminated once and for all.

How to remove gaps between the frame and the sashes

It was previously noted that cracks in plastic windows can also appear due to wear of the rubber seal. Eliminating such cracks is quite simple - you need to get a new seal and do the following:

Carefully remove the old seal from the groove in the window frame.
It is advisable to wipe the grooves and clean them from possible dust and dirt.
Then we take a new seal and, using special tool or a small wooden spatula, tuck it into the groove.

Important! To extend the service life of the seal, it must be treated once a year with a special silicone spray to protect it from drying out.

The described methods are suitable if you decide to eliminate cracks in wooden windows. But the following should be noted.

First, during the preparation stage, wooden windows are checked for damaged or rotten glazing beads. If any, they should be replaced.
Secondly, the seal between the frame and the doors can be rubber or foam rubber. But unlike metal-plastic windows, the seal is simply glued to the frame.
Thirdly, foam rubber can be secured between the frames as a seal, but do not glue it.

The most reliable way to get rid of cracks in windows

Sealing cracks and protecting the seal from wear solves only part of the problem. Whatever one may say, you will have to update the protective layer from time to time. To avoid all this fuss, you need to create reliable protection. To do this you will have to make external slopes.

Materials required:

plastic U-profiles 8 mm;
plastic panels;
polyurethane foam;
sealant;
primer;
White Spirit;
three wooden spacers for the entire height of the window opening and three for its width.

From the tool you will need:

mounting gun for sealant;
jigsaw or hacksaw for metal;
tape measure, ruler and marker.

All work on creating external slopes consists of the following:

We clean the walls from dirt and construction paint.
We take measurements of 3 slopes. First, we remove the size of the upper slope, then the side ones.

Important! Each slope is a trapezoid, so you should be careful when taking measurements.

We mark future slopes on plastic panels and carefully cut them to the required size.
For vertical panels, we put a U-shaped profile on each side. Only for the top panel, the U-shaped profile is placed only on the outer and inner sides, while the sides remain empty.

We begin installation from the top slope. To do this, apply foam in a zigzag pattern to the rough side.
We install the upper slope in place and place spacers under it. We install two spacers at the edges, and one in the center.

Important! To avoid damage plastic surface, you can place pieces of foam rubber or rags under the spacers. The side slopes should be installed after the foam on the top slope has dried sufficiently and the spacers can be removed.

We take the vertical slopes, apply polyurethane foam in a zigzag pattern and install them in their places. We install spacers.
After the foam has dried, we begin sealing the outer part of the slopes. To do this, apply sealant and level it. Let it dry and paint with alkyd paint.

Important! When performing work on creating slopes, you can accidentally stain the panels with sealant or foam. Therefore, to remove blemishes, we use a rag moistened with white spirit.

Creating external slopes is somewhat more troublesome than simply sealing cracks. But as a result, you will receive much more reliable protection for many years. In addition, it is better to get rid of cracks in windows in this way than to somehow seal them with simple polyurethane foam without a protective layer. Finally, I would like to note that the reliability of the protection depends on how careful you are when performing work. interior spaces from drafts and dampness.

How to insert a double-glazed window in a wooden house? It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the building material: timber and logs have the ability to “sit down” due to inevitable drying. Because of this, certain requirements must be observed when installing windows.

When can you install windows in a wooden house?

Installation of windows in a wooden house can begin only after the initial shrinkage has been completed.

After assembling the “box” itself, it usually takes at least six months before finishing work begins, and the windows are installed at the very end, when the main shrinkage is over.

However, in the future the house will still “shrink”; this process continues for at least 5-6 years.

In the first year, the shrinkage rate of a log house is approximately 3-5 cm for every three meters of wall height. That is two-story building with a height of one floor of 3 m, it can fall by almost 10 cm in a year, and such changes cannot be ignored when installing window frames.

Both plastic and wooden frames are installed in wooden houses; each option has its own characteristics.

If you leave the windows unprotected, then within one or two years the descending wall will begin to squeeze the frame: this will lead to its deformation. The window will open worse, and over time it may even jam.

When designing, it is necessary to take into account that window hole should be a few centimeters higher and wider than the required window size, this is necessary for installing the casing (it is also called a casing). It performs several functions:

The window frame takes on the load, protecting the window frames from damage, while it will not allow the logs of the house to move.
It strengthens the window opening and contributes to a more durable and reliable installation windows
At the same time, thanks to the special fastening, it does not interfere with the shrinkage process. The pigtail is installed so that there is a gap between it and the upper crown, which will gradually close. This provides opportunities for all natural shrinkage processes to occur.

How to install a socket in a log house

Installing a window in a wooden house with double-glazed windows is not as difficult as it might seem. In such a building, you can install any frames: now metal-plastic is increasingly being chosen, which is equipped with decorative overlays that imitate wood. You can also choose wooden frames, this is an opportunity to create the most eco-friendly house, the walls of which will be reliably protected from mold.

Wooden double-glazed windows in the house are installed using the most simple option pigtails: for this, a wooden beam with a section of 50x50 mm is used. A groove of similar dimensions is made in a log or beam, and the casing is inserted into it. This allows you to do without rigid fasteners that would interfere with the shrinkage process.

If you need to install metal-plastic windows, use another casing option. In this case, a spike is made in the log (it is also called a ridge), and a window carriage is placed on it. The carriage is a beam with a cross-section of 150 by 100 mm; protrusions for horizontal jumpers are cut out at the ends.

We install double-glazed windows in a wooden house: the first step is to create a casing box. It is mounted as follows:

A lower lintel is installed in the window opening.
The window ridge is covered with insulation, after which carriages are stuffed onto it. An important requirement: the carriages cannot be secured with self-tapping screws or any other connecting elements, otherwise the casing will become useless. It should provide the ability to calmly lower the logs as they dry.
From above, the carriages are closed with a jumper between it and the wall, there should be at least 7-8 cm. The remaining space can be covered with boards or other material, which can be gradually removed to free up the opening for shrinkage. To prevent cold air from penetrating through the gap, additionally cover it with tow.

Further double-glazed windows in wooden frames or in plastic profile installed according to technology: they will be just as reliable and durable. Wooden windows in any case, they will have small gaps; this is provided for by the design itself. Plastic windows will ensure a completely sealed connection between the frame and the window sash.

Additional installation features

Pit for wooden double glazed windows should be placed in the windows in any case, even if the house was built a very long time ago. Throughout its life, wood remains a living material that noticeably reacts to changes in humidity or temperature. Because of this, shrinkage will gradually continue, even if the building itself was built many years ago.

This decision is especially difficult for owners of older homes. If it turns out that the house was built a long time ago, but there is no window frame in it, you will have to either expand the window opening, which requires considerable effort and accuracy, or the glazing area will be significantly reduced.

It will be necessary to install not only the casing, but also to re-close the gap between the frame and the wall with polyurethane foam. These are not only additional costs, but also a lot of hassle associated with finding specialists.

You can install modern windows in a wooden house while fully maintaining their reliability and functionality. But at the same time, it is necessary to comply with construction requirements that take into account all the features of wood as a wall material. Purchasing seasoned logs or lumber provides significant reduction in shrinkage, but the house remains "alive" and some changes in height will still occur.

After installing plastic windows, owners may encounter various problems. In some cases, after a while it is necessary to adjust the window, or there may be cases where it is necessary to repair a plastic window. For example, to attach blinds to a window, you need to drill a hole for a self-tapping screw and screw them on. However, if the blinds need to be removed and they are no longer needed, then something needs to be done with the remaining holes from the screws, because they spoil the aesthetic appearance of the window. There are a number of other reasons why holes remain in the plastic window frame.

1. How to seal holes in a plastic window frame

In fact, there are several ways to solve the problem with holes in the frame. All of them will be correct, but the result may be different. The choice, of course, will be entirely up to the window owners.

Ways to eliminate holes in a plastic frame:

There are other ways to solve the problem with a hole in a plastic window, which will be discussed further.

2. Liquid nails for plastic windows

Liquid nails are great for filling holes. Their scope of application is very wide; they are used not only for PVC, but also for wood, plasterboard, glass and other surfaces. They have good sealing characteristics for sealing any cracks. Liquid nails are aesthetically pleasing and have a long service life. In fact, they are a type of construction adhesive, which includes various fine-grained fillers.

Liquid nails can be divided into two types:

Neopropylene. This type of nails is made from an organic solvent. They have a very pungent odor and are very harmful to human health. The smell from them can persist for several days after application.
Acrylic. This type of nails is absolutely harmless to people and can be used on any surface.

The main advantages of liquid nails are that they set within 15-20 minutes after application, they are universal and do not damage the surface of the product.

How to seal holes in a frame from self-tapping screws? The method of applying liquid nails is as follows:

It is necessary to clean the surface of the hole, and then try to level it and prime it.
After that, liquid nails must be applied to the hole and left until completely dry (1-3 days).
Then the surface must be polished using Cosmofen.
The room temperature when using liquid nails should not exceed 35 degrees.

Thus, the hole from the screw will not be visible, and the windows will have their original appearance.

3. White crack sealant

You can also use sealant to seal holes from self-tapping screws. Today there are a huge number of them, but they are best suited for sealing cracks and holes acrylic sealant.

To seal the cracks you need to do the following:

First of all, the surface of the crack needs to be cleaned of all kinds of dirt, putty, and debris.
Then the entire surface around the hole needs to be sealed with masking tape so as not to smudge it.
After this you need to take acrylic sealant white with a special syringe. Why do you need acrylic sealant? Because silicone cannot be painted if necessary.
Next, the gap or hole is sealed using sealant. After applying the sealant, the surface must be leveled with a wet finger or cloth.
Leave the sealant until completely dry. If necessary, the sealant can be painted.

Conclusion, conclusion

In conclusion, it must be said that holes in a plastic frame can appear for various reasons, be it an incorrect drilled location, removal of blinds, an accidental impact, and others. In order to restore the original appearance of the window, you can use by special means, which can be purchased at any specialized store for the restoration of plastic windows.