Where are the seeds stored? Rules for long-term seed storage. We preserve germination for years! Seed storage conditions

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably well lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, garter. My neighbors use all sorts of stakes, tie-downs, loops, ready-made plant supports and mesh fencing. Each method of fixing a plant in a vertical position has its own advantages and “side effects”. I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises and what comes out of it.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and vectors infectious diseases, dangerous for both people and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of unpleasant insects. In this article we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly repellents and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of products to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub produces luxuriously fragrant flowers from June to September. Florists readily use large inflorescences for wedding decorations and bouquets. To admire the beauty flowering bush hydrangeas in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. We will explain why this happens in the article.

Every summer resident knows what to full development Plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These are three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberry, as we used to call it, is one of the early aromatic berries that summer generously gifts us with. How happy we are about this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in the spring and berries in the summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also a strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick chickpea soup with vegetables and egg is a simple recipe for a hearty first course, inspired by oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and Southeast Asian countries. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your taste. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in clarified butter (ghee) or mix olive and butter in a pan; this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who isn’t familiar with it?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent yields, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, in some places it feels better, in others it feels worse, but almost no summer resident gives up the pleasure of growing it on his plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in middle lane, but also in the Urals and Siberia.

Many decorative and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from sun rays, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Every vegetable has its own time,” and every plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has dealt with planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring the plants have not yet begun to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop such that planting has to be carried out in the midst of summer.

Chili con carne translated from Spanish means chili with meat. This is a Texas and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and shredded beef. In addition to the main products there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, scalding, very filling and amazingly tasty! You can make a big pot, put it in containers and freeze - you'll have a delicious dinner for a whole week.

Cucumber is one of my favorites garden crops our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely environmentally friendly, healthy fruits and vegetables in their own garden. Atlant microbiological fertilizer will help with this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the root system area and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, remain healthy and produce high yields. Typically, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. The assortment of the best indoor plants includes many beautifully flowering species. In the summer, when they receive the brightest lighting and optimal daylight hours, they can outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops also look like living bouquets.

The summer season has come to an end, but gardeners probably still have seeds - purchased with a long shelf life and grown on their own plot - which will have to be sown in the spring. Is it possible to leave the seeds in an unheated room for the winter; will frost damage the seeds? Is it possible to store seeds in a city apartment? Let's figure out how to properly store seeds in winter.

It is important to keep the seeds in conditions that ensure the preservation of high sowing qualities.

When ripe, the seed releases water and dries out. Since life processes can only occur in an aquatic environment, as the seed ripens and dries, they die out. Mature seeds contain a dormant embryo and solid reserve nutrients. They are very dry (12–20% humidity). The hardened seed coat surrounds them like a protective shell.

Maintaining dryness of seeds during storage is the main condition for maintaining their viability.

At what temperature should seeds be stored?

The worst enemy of dormant seeds is warm, moist air. Where it is hot and humid, seeds can lose their viability in a matter of months, and in a few weeks if there is free access to air. Sudden changes in temperature are also unfavorable for them. The ideal conditions for storing most seeds are moderate temperature (12–15°) without significant changes and moderate relative humidity (not higher than 50%).

Seeds should not be left in the winter unheated rooms on garden plots, it is better to transport them to the city, without leaving them in damp and cold for a long time. For damp seeds, shallow freezing (from 0° to -10°) is often disastrous, especially when repeatedly passing through 0°.

During deep freezing (from -15° and below), dry seeds vegetable crops retain viability well, but still storing seeds at sub-zero temperatures undesirable. They fall into a state of deep dormancy and, under normal germination conditions, behave as non-germinating. To bring them into an active state, stimulating influences, such as heating, are required.

So where is the best place to store seeds? living conditions, in particular, in a city apartment? It is clear that seeds cannot be stored in the kitchen due to large changes in humidity. They should also not be kept in the refrigerator door, since every time the door is opened, the cold objects on it come into contact with warm air, and moisture condenses on them.

The most suitable place for storing seeds is living rooms, although there are no ideal conditions. Temperature in living rooms several degrees higher than optimal, and with the central heating on, the air is too dry (relative humidity in winter is usually about 25%).

But temperature changes there are small and not sharp. In these conditions, drying out is a danger: if the seed moisture content drops below 10–12%, this leads to a rapid loss of germination. And yet we will not find a better place to store seeds than the bottom shelf of the linen closet in the living room or the bottom drawer of the desk.

By packing the seeds in plastic bags or foil, we will limit air access to the seeds and prevent them from drying out.

If you prefer to store your seeds in the refrigerator, keep them in the bottom compartment. Before sowing into seedlings, seeds stored in the cold must be activated.

Or the seeds are removed from the refrigerator in advance (a month before sowing) and kept at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, placing the seed bags in a plastic bag to prevent drying out.

Or you need a short-term warm-up in hot water- at 50-52°C for 25 minutes, which is also thermal disinfection.

The longevity of seeds of different crops varies. At normal conditions storage period ranges from 1–2 to 6–8 years. Under particularly favorable conditions, seeds can remain viable much longer than the average periods indicated in the table.

The time during which seeds remain viable depends not only on the type of crop and storage conditions, but also on weather conditions season in which the seeds were received. Seeds grown in warm, sunny summers last longer than those grown in cold and rainy ones.

Shelf life of vegetable seeds

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How do you store seeds? - gatherings. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries...

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Seed storage. - gatherings. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and There is a wall closet or mezzanine in the apartment, well, there is a closet in the hallway, put it in it and that’s it. Only then you need to remember about them, about the seeds.

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Some gardeners don’t see the point in storing seeds, because with the onset of spring you can simply go to the store and buy literally whatever your heart desires. However, sometimes the seeds of the varieties of interest (especially rare ones) are not available for sale, and in this case you have to be content with what you have. And many people collect the seeds of their favorite varieties on their own, so they need to save them until spring, safe and sound.

What determines the safety of seeds?

The safety of seeds is influenced great amount factors. The main indicator of further seed germination is humidity. Characterized by high humidity seeds can germinate quickly during storage and suddenly become covered unpleasant mold or even start to rot. In this regard, only thoroughly dried seed material is allowed for storage.

To a large extent, the processes occurring in seeds are influenced by the temperature of their storage. If it is too high, the seeds will begin to breathe more actively, and accordingly, the nutrient reserves in them will begin to oxidize much faster. Seeds can retain their viability only if they are stored in sufficiently cool rooms. At normal storage in warm places, seeds often partially or completely lose their viability. And if you place them on the side shelf at the bottom of the refrigerator, their germination rate remains virtually unchanged.

Slight coolness is ideal for storing most seeds, that is, a temperature in the range of twelve to sixteen degrees. But storing the seeds of onions, carrots and asters requires cold. If possible, it is better to leave them to spend the winter at the dacha. In principle, an apartment balcony would also be suitable. As for the seeds of various root vegetables and salads, low temperatures are, on the contrary, contraindicated for storing them, otherwise they will unpleasantly surprise you when sowing by early bolting, which cannot but affect the volume of the harvest.

Another important factor for storing seeds is their purity, which means the absence of debris in the seeds that can cause them to rot. The seeds should not contain various granivorous pests - they will easily destroy the reserves in just two to three months.

As for air, the seeds, of course, also need it, but it will be sufficient in very small volumes. As a rule, air is removed almost completely from seed bags. However, there is an exception here too - these are large-sized seeds ( legumes, For example). Good air circulation can significantly extend their life. So for storing legume seeds ideal option Unclosed jars or bags will be placed in a dry place.

And in order to provide the seeds with deep rest, they should be stored in the dark. They will not need light until sowing, as it stimulates seed germination.

How to pack seeds

Metallized bags would be an excellent packaging for better preservation of seed germination. This type of packaging is often used by foreign manufacturers, and even after the expiration date, the seeds stored in them germinate perfectly. Seeds will be stored just as well in vacuum bags. The most common option is bags lined with film on the inside. However, this only applies to bags hermetically sealed by the manufacturer. If you use them again, the effect will not be the same. Seeds in an opened package immediately begin to actively breathe and gradually lose their viability, so they need to be used as soon as possible.

Regarding paper bags, it can be said that, although they are quite cheap, the shelf life of the seeds stored in them is usually much shorter. Moreover, such packaging cannot guarantee high seed germination and, accordingly, decent yields. It depends on your luck.

Of course, all seeds must be signed, indicating the names of the crops and their varieties, as well as the years the seeds were collected.

Where is the best place to store seeds?

In principle, you can store seeds at home in any room, with the exception of the kitchen - systematic changes in temperature and humidity in the kitchen will clearly not benefit the seeds. It is quite acceptable to pack seeds collected with your own hands in plastic bags or paper. However, in rooms with sufficiently humid air, it is still better to prefer film - while being a serious barrier to moisture, it allows a certain amount of oxygen to pass through, allowing the seeds to breathe. As a rule, seeds are placed closer to the floor, under the bed or in the bottom drawers of cabinets - the temperature below is usually lower than above.

If there are a lot of seeds, then it is best to store them in places with a constantly low temperature - in the underground or in the basement. And to protect them from excessive dampness and from mice, the seeds can be placed in small jars, the lids of which can be easily sealed. Silica gel also protects well from moisture – it can often be found in shoe and bag packaging. This synthetic material perfectly absorbs moisture from the air. If you place several grains in jars with seeds, they will quickly absorb all the excess moisture.

Seed germination is one of the main indicators of their quality. It is not the same different types. However, it is important to take into account that after this time, the germination capacity of the seeds is not completely lost, but only begins to decline. If you need mustard seeds in bulk, you can find information about the most favorable conditions for purchasing them on the website of the KERNEL GLOBAL HOLDING company.

So, let’s look at how to store mustard seeds so that your plans for a good harvest are fully justified.

Properly chosen storage conditions have a direct impact on maintaining the germination rate. However, there are general rules that must be followed when storing any seeds, including mustard seeds.

Storage Key Points

The duration of seed germination at rest is influenced by various factors:

chemical composition of the air in the storage;
storage temperature;
seed moisture.

Activities preceding storage itself are also of great importance - growing conditions, harvesting period, post-harvest processing. For example, improperly carried out drying of seeds can cause a sharp decrease in germination and an increase in the population of seeds with fungi and bacteria.

Post-harvest ripening of the seeds and subsequent drying of the seeds completes the ripening of the seeds. After the seeds reach economical humidity, they are stored.

Mustard seeds do not lose their viability for up to 8 years if properly stored. However, this period cannot be considered strictly limiting. Under appropriate conditions, seeds of many crops can be stored for much longer. But when bad conditions storage, germination rate may sharply decrease earlier than specified.

The main reason for the loss of germination by seeds is their moisture content. Under conditions of high relative humidity and temperature, seeds quickly lose their viability. To maintain seed germination at the 1st class level for a long time, it is necessary to maintain conditions under which low humidity seeds is combined with low temperature and humidity of the environment.

Regardless of the type of mustard, the buyer or the importing country, the quality of mustard seeds must meet standards for moisture, color, smell, tolerance of weeds, oil and mineral impurities, and “dark inclusions.” The surface of the seeds should be smooth and clean.

Compliance with microbiological indicators is mandatory; seeds must be safe in terms of the content of heavy metals and radionuclides, pesticides, toxins, and must not contain genetically modified organisms.

Deviation from these standards is either not allowed (in the case of a buyer-processor), or, due to non-compliance with physical and organoleptic indicators, the price of seeds is significantly reduced if the buyer is a wholesale intermediary capable of bringing the product to basic quality.

As is known, the production of mustard seeds in Ukraine is not yet targeted, although the country is one of the top ten world leaders in growing this oilseed crop. But we are still significantly behind Canada, the largest producer of mustard. However, although not a leader in the production of white mustard seeds, which is especially in demand on the global oilseeds market, Ukraine remains a reliable supplier of high-quality seeds.

When properly stored, vegetable seeds remain viable for quite a long time and at optimal temperatures have good germination energy. However, vegetable growers are often faced with the fact that the sown seeds do not sprout.

The main reason is improper storage: either the seeds were stored longer than they can remain viable, or the storage conditions were unfavorable. Seeds of different crops and varieties are stored differently.

Watermelon and melon seeds can be stored for 6-8 years; beans, peas, beans - 5-6; rutabaga, turnips, cabbage and Brussels sprouts, radishes, radishes, beets and chard, tomatoes - 4-5; eggplants - 3-5; onions, lettuce - 3-4; carrots, rhubarb, spinach, sorrel - 2-3, pepper - 3; dill - 2-5; parsnip, parsley, celery, rhubarb - 2; zucchini, squash, pumpkin - 6-7; corn - 7 years. Cucumber seeds remain viable for about 8 years. The most productive seeds are 2-4 years old.

To ensure that the seeds do not lose their quality within the specified period, they must be stored correctly. Fresh seeds need to be heated, then they will produce more female flowers and, therefore, the harvest will be better. The optimal temperature for storing seeds is 0-5° C. At the same time, air humidity should not exceed 55%, that is, the room should be dry. Particularly dangerous for seeds are temperature fluctuations that lead to increased humidity. Even slightly negative temperatures cause some seeds to spoil (cucumbers are especially affected). When storing seeds under normal room conditions, you need to ensure that the air temperature does not exceed 18° C, as they will dry out. Seeds of annual and biennial crops are stored for a considerable time. There is no point in storing seeds of perennials (sorrel, rhubarb, perennial onions): by the time it is necessary to resume planting, the germination rate of the seeds may be too low.

For long-term storage, you need to put seeds grown in warm and dry years (they are better stored, and plants grown from them have better characteristics). Unripe seeds or seeds from unripe fruits are not stored for a long time (for example, the germination rate of tomato seeds from brown or green fruits that were ripened in the room is initially approximately 95-98%, after 2 years it decreases significantly). Seeds of early-ripening varieties, compared to late-ripening varieties, lose their viability faster during storage.

You cannot store wet seeds, as well as seeds mixed with pulp or chaff, which easily absorb moisture from the air. Only large, full seeds should be selected for storage. Small and puny seeds lose their viability faster and produce a poor harvest. Seeds with low germination should not be stored for storage: when sowing, they need to be used more than usual, and the emerging plants give a poor harvest.

Before storing seeds, you need to clean them of impurities, determine their germination capacity and dry them until required humidity. Usually the seeds are dried during the collection period, and then dried before storing. Despite the fact that when harvesting the seeds had to go through all these procedures, before storing them they must be repeated and the small ones removed.

To clean the seeds tomato, you need to pour them into a tight bag (fill it 1 / 3 volume) and grind them for 5-8 minutes. In this case, the stuck together seeds, pulp and part of the hairs are separated. If further stuck together specimens are not found, the seeds are poured into a 5% solution of table salt (5 g of salt per 100 g of water). The volume of the solution should be 3 times greater than the volume of seeds. Mix everything thoroughly and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. The floating puny seeds and pieces of pulp must be drained along with the salt solution, and the remaining ones at the bottom should be rinsed well with water and dried, spread out in a thin layer. The seeds are dried in a dry room at a temperature of 25-30 ° C for 2-3 days, then poured into a bag.

Seeds pepper They are selected manually, the weakest and lightest ones are removed. Seeds eggplant, like tomato seeds, they are first ground in a bag and then passed through brine. Seeds carrots, parsley also rub with hands in a bag for 5 minutes, while spines and cilia are removed. The ground seeds are winnowed, placed in a 5% saline solution and mixed. The seeds are immature and float with low germination. They are drained together with the solution, and those that have settled to the bottom are washed with water and dried. The seeds are also cleaned pumpkin, cucumber, zucchini and melon. When rubbed, they acquire a smooth, shiny surface, and adhered pieces of pulp are removed.

To remove seeds peas, damaged by bruchus, or beans with bean moth, use a 33-35% solution of ammonium nitrate. Seeds damaged by pests float, they are drained along with the solution and brewed in it, and those that have settled to the bottom are washed clean water and dry.

Seeds watermelon sort, removing weak and insufficiently colored ones. You can remove puny seeds manually pumpkin, zucchini and squash. Seeds cabbage first pass through a round sieve with holes 1.5 mm in diameter. All small seeds are discarded, those remaining on the sieve are passed through a saline solution, washed and dried. Seeds are also sorted rutabaga and some other crops. Do not forget that cabbage plants have varieties with seeds smaller than 1.5 mm, and in dry years all varieties develop small seeds. In such cases, use a sieve with cells of a smaller diameter. For sorting seeds radish and radish A sieve with holes with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm is suitable; puny seeds are separated from them. Seeds dill, lettuce and parsnip cleaned of debris (bad seeds are separated) by winnowing them in the wind or using a fan. To clean the fruit beets, needed on small board or thick cardboard, glue a fleecy fabric and lift it at an angle to create a slope along which the beet balls will roll. Impurities are retained on the fabric. Seeds can also be sorted by hand.

Immediately after cleaning, the sowing properties of the seeds stored for storage should be determined. This is easy to do at home. Place damp gauze on the bottom of a plate or saucer (maintain humidity) to provide the seeds with the moisture necessary for germination. Seeds are laid out in rows on gauze: small - 100 pieces, medium - 50, large - 25 pieces. They need to be covered with the same gauze on top and then with a saucer. The seeds of almost all vegetable crops germinate well at 18-20°C, only lemon balm requires a temperature of 35°C, and for onions and spinach - 15-20°C. Every day, the seeds should be viewed, counted and those that have produced roots removed. When the germination period ends, you need to determine the total number of sprouted seeds and calculate germination. For most vegetable and herb crops, seed germination time is 10 days; for anise, eggplant, coriander, borage, pepper, parsley, rhubarb, spinach - 15; for oregano, lemon balm, parsnip, celery, dill - 20 days. Seed germination of more than 90% is an excellent result, 80 is good, and 60-80% is satisfactory. Seeds with satisfactory germination are stored only for the next crops and in cases where there are no better ones. If they are stored in open containers, germination is checked annually 1.5-2 months before sowing in order to discard those for which it has decreased.

The easiest way to store seeds is in a room or pantry, in paper bags or cloth bags. It is simple, but unreliable, since significant fluctuations in temperature and air humidity are possible in the room. In addition, the seed material absorbs moisture from the air and, as a result, loses its germination capacity. The higher the temperature and humidity, the faster the seeds lose their viability, so seed material with a moisture content of no more than 9% is stored in this way. You can determine the approximate moisture content of tomato, pepper or cucumber seeds by breaking the seed. If this fails and the seed bends, then the humidity exceeds 10%. At open method During storage, it is necessary to remember that the lower the moisture content of the seeds before planting, the less they absorb moisture from the air. Seeds should not be stored in an unheated shed.

Paper bags for packaging seeds intended for storage are made similar to those in which pharmaceutical powders are stored. It is better to place large quantities of seeds in cloth bags. The name of the crop, variety, year of cultivation, germination capacity and weight of seeds is written on the bag with a simple pencil or ballpoint pen. Bags should not be filled too tightly. To protect them from mice, they are placed in metal or wooden box, but do not close it hermetically. The seeds are examined once a month. If mold or other manifestations of high humidity are found, they are dried, ventilated and placed in new containers.

For storage in hermetically sealed containers, you can use glass vials, bottles, canning jars, plastic film bags, etc. This will protect the seeds from the main enemy - high humidity. When stored in such containers, seeds should have a moisture content of less than 7%.

The most valuable seeds (onion, tomato, cucumber hybrids, as well as rare flowers such as asters) can be stored in the freezer of the refrigerator. To store small amounts of seeds, you can take glass bottles. The peeled and dried seeds are poured into a bottle, a label is placed there, a second label is glued to the bottle and placed in freezer. In such conditions, seeds can be stored for several years. If necessary, pour out the required amount of seeds, close the bottle and place it in the refrigerator.

Store the seeds in a plastic bag in the room. The bag with the seeds and the label is sealed and the necessary inscriptions are made. In this way, seeds can be stored 2 times longer than usual. If you need to select some seeds from a bag, cut one of its corners, pour out the required amount of seeds, and seal the corner again.

You can store the seeds in the cellar in an airtight container. The advantage of this method is that in the cellar there is relatively constant constant low temperature. To store seeds in the cellar, it is good to use glass jars (half-liter or liter depending on the number of seeds). The moisture content of seeds with this storage method should not exceed 5-7%. Therefore, before placing them in jars, they are dried in a dry room at 27-28 ° C, since it is not always possible to dry them immediately after collection. Dried seeds are divided into portions, the size of which depends on how many seeds of a given variety or crop are required each year. The seeds are poured into bags, on which the necessary inscriptions are made, and the bags are placed in jars. Each jar contains as many seeds of each variety as needed to grow vegetables in one year. The jars are covered with metal lids and rolled up (as in home canning), the lid is thickly greased with grease and grease, and the jars are placed in the cellar. At the same time, the respiration rate of the seeds is low, and they are not afraid of moisture.

With this method, the conditions for storing seeds are more favorable than when storing the seeds of each crop in a separate jar, since in the latter case it is necessary to open and close the jars annually, violating the gas regime, on which the preservation of the quality of the seeds depends. Banks open in 1.5-2 months. before sowing to check their germination.

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It is important to keep the seeds in conditions that ensure the preservation of high sowing qualities.

Maintaining dryness of seeds during storage is the main condition for maintaining their viability.

At what temperature should seeds be stored?

Seeds should not be left for the winter in unheated rooms in garden plots; it is better to transport them to the city without leaving them in damp and cold for a long time. For damp seeds, shallow freezing (from 0° to -10°) is often disastrous, especially when repeatedly passing through 0°.

When deep frozen (from -15° and below), dry vegetable seeds retain their viability well, but storing seeds at sub-zero temperatures is still undesirable. They fall into a state of deep dormancy and, under normal germination conditions, behave as non-germinating. To bring them into an active state, stimulating influences, such as heating, are required.

So where is it better to store seeds at home, in particular in a city apartment? It is clear that seeds cannot be stored in the kitchen due to large changes in humidity. They should also not be kept in the refrigerator door, since every time the door is opened, the cold objects on it come into contact with warm air, and moisture condenses on them.

The most suitable place for storing seeds is living rooms, although conditions there are not ideal. The temperature in living rooms is several degrees higher than optimal, and when the central heating is on, the air in them is too dry (relative humidity in winter is usually about 25%).

By packing the seeds in plastic bags or foil, we will limit air access to the seeds and prevent them from drying out.

If you prefer to store your seeds in the refrigerator, keep them in the bottom compartment. Before sowing into seedlings, seeds stored in the cold must be activated.

Or the seeds are removed from the refrigerator in advance (a month before sowing) and kept at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, placing the seed bags in a plastic bag to prevent drying out.

Or you need short-term heating in hot water - at 50-52°C for 25 minutes, which is also thermal disinfection.

The longevity of seeds of different crops varies. Under normal storage conditions, it ranges from 1–2 to 6–8 years. Under particularly favorable conditions, seeds can remain viable much longer than the average periods indicated in the table.

The time during which seeds remain viable depends not only on the type of crop and storage conditions, but also on the weather conditions of the season in which the seeds were received. Seeds grown in warm, sunny summers last longer than those grown in cold and rainy ones.

Shelf life of vegetable seeds

Comment on the article "How to properly store seeds: in the country or in a city apartment?"

Biochemical processes in seeds during storage

In seeds, a distinction is made between the biological and economic longevity of their ability to germinate. Biological longevity - main interest biologists, but economics is constantly of interest to practitioners. It is economic longevity that determines the standard germination capacity of seeds, which sharply decreases if storage requirements are violated.

Reasons for loss of germination

The main reasons for the loss of seed germination are considered to be increased moisture content in the seeds and air, as well as elevated temperatures in the room where the seeds are stored.

The seeds are very hygroscopic. They are able to absorb water vapor from the air and release it into environment vaporous moisture. Under optimal conditions, healthy, balanced “breathing” of seeds occurs (as much as you gave, you took as much). The level of such equilibrium respiration depends on the biological characteristics of the seeds and is determined by the content of starch and crude fat in the composition, the size and density of the seed integument.

When seed moisture is within 6-12%, their respiration is insignificant. An increase in humidity by 1-2% sharply increases the respiration rate of seeds and their temperature. Biochemical processes begin that lead to their loss of dry matter. As a result, germination rate sharply decreases, the seeds become moldy, may rot and die, or significantly reduce germination rate.

For example, in cabbage, an increase in seed moisture by 2% of the optimal speeds up respiration by 27 times, and by 4% - by 80 times. In fact, the seeds begin to germinate untimely and, of course, die. Optimal temperature storage for most crops from the cruciferous, pumpkin, and nightshade families is considered to be 10-12 ºС with a relative air humidity in the room not higher than 60%.

For representatives of the umbelliferae, celery, lily, pumpkin, some cruciferous and nightshade families, during storage, without changing the temperature, reduce the air humidity to 50%. Well-dried seeds do not lose their viability and are well preserved at home at temperatures from +1 ºС to -5 ºС.

Seed storage methods

Seeds are stored in open and closed ways.

With the open method, the seeds are kept for the entire storage period in a container that easily allows air and moisture to pass through to the seeds. Such containers are containers made of natural fabrics - linen or jute, sewn in 1-2 layers (bags, pouches, sacks, etc.).

With a closed storage method (it is less common), the seeds are placed in a moisture-proof container. The soft container has 2 layers. The top one is usually made of fabric and the inner liner is polyethylene. The moisture content of seeds in polyethylene liners does not exceed 6-9%. The polyethylene liner with seeds is tightly tied to protect against moisture penetration, and the upper fabric liner is simply tightened or tied with side ears.

Where to store seeds at home?

At home, it is better to store seeds in thick paper bags placed in plastic container or small bottles. Seeds that are not completely used are left in purchased bags, carefully rolled and protected from moisture. To store them, it is best to pour a little dried flour, cornstarch or other moisture-absorbing material into the bottom of a glass jar. Place the packaged bags on top and close the lid tightly.

It is best to store seeds on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or in a separate cool room. Some well-dried seeds (dill, fennel, carrots, parsley, lettuce) can be conveniently stored in glass jars. In dense foil bags, seeds suffocate after 1-2 years and lose their viability or even die.

Duration of seed germination

The shelf life of seeds is indicated on the label along with the name, year of collection, and class. This data is necessary to obtain full-fledged seedlings, since when stored beyond the prescribed period, germination sharply decreases, and seedlings have very low immunity to damage by diseases and pests.

The grade indicated on the label characterizes the percentage of seed germination. Seeds of the first class have the highest germination rate, which is different cultures 60-95%. Seeds of the second class - 40-85%. The germination percentage will help the gardener more accurately determine the planting density of the crop.

When properly stored, vegetable seeds retain high germination within the following periods:

1-2 years: celery, chives, parsnips, corn, onions, leeks
2-3 years: lovage, parsley, dill, spinach, sorrel, leek, coriander,
3-4 years: lettuce, carrots, sweet peppers, nigella onions, fennel, peas,
3-5 years: kohlrabi, turnips, beets, cauliflower, eggplants,
4-5 years: tomatoes, radishes, radishes, rutabaga, white cabbage, broccoli,
4-6 years: beans, beans,
6-8 years: cucumbers, squash, zucchini, melons, watermelons.

The indicated periods for preserving the germination of spicy-flavoring (green) and vegetable crops are not maximum. For well-dried seeds, temperature changes are not dangerous, but if the moisture content of the seeds is higher than critical, then at low temperatures the seeds will become moldy due to a disruption in the breathing rhythm (they receive more than they can give) and then the duration of germination will sharply decrease. Under optimal conditions, seeds beyond the specified period can remain viable for another 3-5, and some (tomatoes) even 10 years.

A few rules to note

Seeds purchased from the counter in winter should be immediately placed in the refrigerator or left in a cold place. IN warm room cold packs collect condensation, which can affect seed moisture levels.

In the northern regions, it is better to buy seeds from the previous year's harvest. This is due to the fact that due to the short summer, the seeds are collected immature and ripened indoors. Therefore, freshly harvested seeds have lower germination and germination energy (seedling yield).

In the south, the difference in germination of 1-2 summer seeds is practically indistinguishable. But before storing purchased fresh seeds, you need to warm them up at home at a temperature no higher than 30-35 ºС.

The most fertile time is coming in your garden, when you enjoy the fruits of your labor in the literal and figurative sense: the harvest of vegetables is ripening in the beds, in the garden there is an unprecedented harvest of apples, pears, grapes, and the variety of colors of the flowerbeds and flower beds will make your head spin. The end of August is the best time to prepare for the next season, so along with preparations for future use, you can find time for collecting flower seeds. This way you can save a little on your family budget, as well as provide your friends and neighbors with the flowers you like.

Let's say right away that not all flower seeds suitable for collection. First of all, in so-called F1 hybrids, parental characteristics are not inherited, and as a result, completely new varieties of flowers can be obtained with characteristics that differ from the parents. Therefore, if you do not like such surprises, then propagate such plants by cuttings. This, for example, applies to hybrid petunias.

In addition, some varieties of flowers growing in a flower bed next door can cross-pollinate. This can also be attributed to petunias. But if you want, you can find a way out - experienced flower growers They use protective gauze caps for flowers intended for collecting seeds, pollinating these flowers by hand. Or you can simply plant one type of flower at a time in a flowerbed. In this case, cross-pollination does not threaten the flowers.

How to collect flower seeds correctly?

In order for the seeds you collect to have a high germination rate, collect the seeds on time, otherwise there is a risk of being left without them at all, because the seeds of many flowers fall to the ground when ripe or “shoot” very far away from themselves, for example, like violets or pansies.

Many flower seeds are collected in dry sunny weather: this is especially important for asters, zinnias, marigolds, and rudbeckia, because their basket-shaped inflorescences, collected in high humidity, can simply rot during drying and storage.

Some flowers, such as pansies, annual phlox, alyssum, petunia, violet, garden geranium, sweet pea, fragrant tobacco, impatiens, balsam, It is better to collect seeds early in the morning“in dew” or in wet weather, until the seed pods and pods crack. But I still try to collect seeds from such plants that are not quite ripe, until the seed pods become hard and turn brown.

Great care is required when collecting garden geranium seeds. The geranium seed capsule consists of five seeds. Once the bottom of the seed pod is ripe, five springs are released, shooting the seeds out. The trick is to loosen these springs. To do this, cut them with scissors before they ripen, after which the cut springs can be twisted inward.

To outwit plants that shoot seeds, you can use a piece of cloth or a towel. Simply cover the branch with the ripe seed pods with a towel. When you first touch the seed pod, the fired seeds will remain on the cloth or towel, after which all that remains is to collect the finished seeds.

To collect seeds of some flowers in which the flowers are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences, such as delphinium, foxglove, lupine, bluebells and others, you can use paper baguette bags. After the flowering of delphinium or foxglove comes to an end, the fruits begin to ripen from below. Cut off the upper part of the inflorescence with flowers and unripe seed pods. Place a baguette bag over the remaining inflorescence and cut off the peduncle. Turn over the bag with the cut inflorescence and shake well. In this form, place the bag for ripening: the ripening seeds will simply crumble to the bottom of the bag. All you have to do is write the name of the variety and the year the seeds were collected on the bag.

However, collecting seeds from most flowers is not difficult, for example, lavatera, cosmos, ageratum, morning glory, gaillardia. The seeds of these plants can be collected either unripe or fully ripe, and the germination rate remains very high.

At the columbine and gumweed, carefully turn over the bursting seed pods and pour the seeds from them into the palm of your hand or into a bag.

How to properly store flower seeds?

After all the seed pods, baskets or whole cut inflorescences are ripened or dried under a canopy without direct sunlight in a well-ventilated place on paper sheets or small bowls or saucers, stirring occasionally. At the same time, the sufficient temperature for seed ripening is +20 +24°C, for drying +30 +35°C.

Place whole dried seed pods in a linen bag and vigorously knead it in your hands to separate the seeds. Pour the resulting mixture back onto the saucer. Some of the chaff will remain on the walls of the bag; carefully blow the remaining chaff out of the saucer. Received seeds can be stored in either a linen or paper bag at a temperature of +15 +20°C. Don't forget to label the names of the flowers and the year the seeds were collected. This information may be useful to you both for a comparative assessment and will help in the formation of a future flower bed based on the color and height of the plants.

To store seeds, I use paper bags made from a regular sheet of paper. As they say, “cheap and cheerful”, and most importantly, very quickly. I put packets of seeds in seedling boxes. In the spring, when it’s time to plant seeds for seedlings in boxes, you don’t have to look for my bags right there, at hand.

P.S. Don't have a lawn at your dacha yet? Lawn grass, various grass mixtures for the lawn will create a green fluffy carpet under open air. A hassle-free lawn for the whole family to enjoy! Grass seeds for lawns in various combinations to create lawns for every taste: you can plant a sports lawn to play sports with your children, and you won’t want to leave the Euro-Shadow lawn.

“Why store seeds? After all, before the start of the summer season, you can come to the store and buy everything right away.” But it was not there. True gardeners have been planning since the fall what they will plant next year, looking for varieties of interest from familiar amateur gardeners and gardeners, and ordering rarities in online stores. And also many people collect their own seeds from their favorite varieties, so as not to look for them later somewhere and not spend extra money. There are many cases where the same variety of a crop is stored for years and decades and planted annually in the same family, delighting with good harvests.

Factors influencing safety.

Humidity seeds is the most important factor in their future germination. Seeds with high humidity during storage may germinate, become moldy, or even rot. Therefore, only well-dried seeds are always stored for storage. At home, drying is usually done on paper in a well-ventilated, warm room.

T storage temperature also affects the processes occurring in the seeds. The higher it is, the more actively the seeds respire, and the faster the nutrient reserves in them are oxidized. Therefore, the cooler it is, the longer the seeds will remain viable. Example: we did not have time to sow zinnia or marigold seeds in time, and they remained on next year. If you continue to store them in the room, then next year they may no longer germinate, partially or completely. If you put them in the refrigerator on the side shelf below, the germination rate will remain almost the same.

The best temperature for most seeds will be a slight coolness of 12-16*C. The seeds of asters, carrots and onions are stored in the cold (you can leave them for the winter in country house, or on the veranda, or on the balcony of a city apartment, not forgetting to protect it from mice). But lettuce seeds and root vegetables cannot be stored at low temperatures. When sowing such seeds, they usually begin to bolt early to the detriment of the harvest.

Purity implies storing seeds without additional debris getting into them, which can cause rotting, and the absence of granivorous pests, which can destroy all seed reserves in a couple of months of storage.

Air It is necessary for seeds to breathe, but in very small quantities. Usually, almost all the air is removed from the seed packets. An exception may be large seeds, such as legumes, for which air circulation prolongs their life. Therefore, they are usually stored in bags or open jars in a dry place.

Darkness - also provides deep dormancy for seeds. Light stimulates germination and is not needed until sowing time.

We provide conditions!

The germination of seeds in metallized bags is very well preserved. In such good packaging, seeds from foreign companies germinate remarkably even after their expiration date. Seeds are stored well in vacuum packaging, in bags lined with film on the inside. But this only applies to new hermetically sealed bags. Opened seeds begin to actively respire and lose their viability, so it is recommended to use them as quickly as possible.

Simple paper bags are cheap because they have a shorter shelf life and fewer guarantees. Especially if such packages are sold on the street, during the spring seed sales season. Street sellers rarely monitor temperature fluctuations when storing their seeds, so purchasing even the freshest seeds from them does not guarantee good germination and good yields. In addition, such street sellers often come across cases where seeds from one bag are poured into bags with different names of varieties. When something unknown grows, only then do gardeners begin to pay attention to the reputability of the company and the seller’s guarantees.

Where to store seeds?

It can be done in any room, just not in the kitchen, where there are frequent changes in humidity and temperature. You can pack your seeds in both paper and plastic bags. The film does not allow moisture to pass through, but can allow some amount of oxygen to pass through for breathing, so it is more preferable in rooms with humid air. It is better to place the seeds somewhere closer to the floor, in the bottom drawers of cabinets, under the bed, where the temperature is much lower than somewhere on the closet.

Good to store a large number of seeds somewhere in the basement or subfield, where the temperature is constantly low. To protect from mice and from excessive dampness, the seeds can be placed in jars with hermetically sealed lids. Additionally, silica gel can provide protection against moisture. These are grains of synthetic material that absorb moisture from the air, which can be found in small bags in new shoes. Place a few of these grains in each jar, and they will take away excess moisture.

How to store?..

For novice gardeners, a large number of multi-colored bags causes at least confusion, what to do with all this wealth? Some put them in photo album files, others in binders, sorting them by type of crop. You can make additional inscriptions and notes about when to sow, what for seedlings in March, and what in open ground. It would help to add additional notes on sowing dates in your garden diary.

Many people simply sort the bags by crop into separate plastic bags. More experienced plant growers usually already have a solid collection of seeds, and they start large boxes, dividing them into departments like a card index, and storing their own category of seeds in each department. It is very convenient to purchase a plastic container for such purposes - an organizer for small items or tools.

Shelf life of seeds.

When storing your seeds, be sure to sign the name of the crop, variety and year of collection, so as not to subsequently store old expired seeds. The duration of storage of seeds very much depends on their belonging to a particular species or family. Seeds of onions, carrots, parsley, aster, marigolds, calendula, annual phlox, columbine, forget-me-nots, dimorphotheca are stored for very little time, 1, maximum - 2 years.

Seeds of cabbage, radish, radish, peppers and eggplants, ageratum, chrysanthemums, snapdragons, lavatera, mallow, and petunias can be stored for 3-4 years without damage to germination.

Large seeds of peas, beans, beans, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, cosmos, nasturtium, sweet peas, as well as celosia, amaranth, balsams, gillyflowers, lobularia, and cornflowers usually remain viable the longest.

Plants that produce fruit become more prolific when stored, therefore, for example, tomatoes, cucumbers and others are sown not in the first year after harvest, but in the 3rd year or more. Most root vegetables are best sown fresh. The expiration date of the seeds of most green and aromatic crops expires especially quickly; they are sown only fresh.

Most indoor plants and ornamental perennials lose their viability very quickly, and it is advisable to sow them immediately after purchase.

If you have any interesting options or subtleties of storing seeds, write them in the comments, maybe today your recommendation will greatly help someone!

We will talk about how to remove seeds from dormancy, how to germinate fresh and not so fresh seeds, what are the ways to stimulate fast and friendly germination in the following articles!

Where are the seeds stored? Rules for long-term seed storage. We preserve germination for years! Seed storage conditions

At what temperature should seeds be stored?

Shelf life of vegetable seeds

What determines the safety of seeds?

How to pack seeds

Where is the best place to store seeds?

Storage Key Points

At what temperature should seeds be stored?

Shelf life of vegetable seeds

More on the topic “Where to store seeds”:

Biochemical processes in seeds during storage

Reasons for loss of germination

Seed storage methods

Where to store seeds at home?

Duration of seed germination

A few rules to note

How to collect flower seeds correctly?

How to properly store flower seeds?

Factors influencing safety.

We provide conditions!

Where to store seeds?

How to store?..

Shelf life of seeds.