DIY garage doors. Do-it-yourself swing gates for garages Garage doors that open upwards

A garage becomes an integral part of any home or cottage, since almost every family has a car, and very often more than one. As you understand, a garage cannot exist without high-quality, reliable and convenient gates, so you need to approach the choice of the design of future gates very carefully.

Types of overhead gates

Today, overhead gates have become commonplace and are very common. Their main advantage is incredible functionality and ease of use.

Due to their compact size, they are great for all types of garages and yards, can work in limited spaces and are a great saver for you time and effort when opening. Today there are the following types of overhead gates:

Lifting sectional

The main canvas consists of panels, which are assembled into a single non-rigid structure and are able to bend as they are lifted and align into a rigid canvas when closed.

Sectional lifting gates

Lift-and-swivel

The front panel is solid and absolutely not deformable. The lifting of such a structure occurs along a curved path, top part goes a little deeper into the garage, about thirty percent of the total height, and the lower one goes out with the remaining segment.

You should select one or another variety taking into account your preferences and the characteristics of the garage itself, as well as the number free space next to the entrance. Also consider cost and complexity. self-installation, since both of these parameters will differ for each species.

The most common type of garage door this moment- overhead garage doors.

Further, in the article you will learn how to make overhead gates with your own hands, but first you need to know the design of overhead gates. swing gates. They consist of a frame, which is securely fixed in the garage opening, the door leaf itself and the mechanism that carries out the movement.

The upper edge is fixed on two slats along which it moves on rollers, approximately at a height of two-thirds from the lower edge there are side rollers that move along the side rivers. The entire system is driven by one or two drives, or in extreme cases it is manual opening gate

We collect the necessary materials and tools

Depending on the features and type, the quantity and type of material will vary, but for the most simple gate which you can easily make with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

Wooden blocks with a section of 120x80 and 100x100, for the box and ceiling, respectively.
Metal pins for fastening.
Angles for frame and rails, 35x35x4 and 40x40x4.
Channel bracket 80x45.
Spring, with an internal diameter of 30 millimeters.
Metal rod with a diameter of 8 millimeters.
Actually, the canvas itself.
If required, then buy a drive for automation.

As for the tools, you will need the simplest things that you can easily find in your garage, namely: a hammer, a tape measure, a pencil, a set wrenches, drill, level, screwdrivers, metal and wood drills, grinder and welding machine.

Step-by-step instructions

The entire installation process is quite simple and will proceed according to the following plan:

Making the frame.
Installation of rollers.
Creating a shield.
Installation of additional elements.

So, we begin the process by designing the future structure. It is best to do this in advance so that during the work you do not have any hitches and difficulties with calculations, since your head will be busy with many different things to do, and the work will move very slowly, and the result may turn out to be of less quality.

Step 1: Opening Measurements

First of all, measure the garage opening, and then transfer it to paper. Based on the resulting values, make a small sketch of the future design; if you don’t know this, it’s better to use any of the ready-made drawings that you like.

Measurements must be taken carefully during installation, because this type of design should not have even the slightest distortion.

Step 2: Attaching the main frame

Once you know what kind of gate you want to make, you can get to work. Homemade overhead gates are made on the basis of a wooden box, which is assembled into a single frame. Individual bars are twisted with metal corners or plastic using self-tapping screws, nails or bolts.

The resulting frame is fixed in the opening, the lower part should go deep into the floor to a depth of three to five centimeters. The frame must be secured with metal pins to each wall and to the floor. For reliability, for each linear meter you must use one pin with a length of thirty centimeters.

Watch the video: Making the frame of the canvas

Step 3: Assembling the canvas

The canvas is assembled very simply: a metal frame is made from corners, and a sheet of metal is sewn on top. To decorate the gate, it is fashionable to trim the sheet with various decorative panels. Penoplex is used for insulation and sound insulation, mineral wool And so on.

Step 4: We fasten springs and mechanisms

It is best to choose springs from 65G steel.

We take the corners and make a support for the guide mechanism. We drill two holes on one of the shelves, through which the structure will be secured to the supports.

On the other hand, we drill three holes with a diameter of one centimeter to secure the spring bracket. The bracket and the spring are connected by an adjustment plate.

Thus, a ring is obtained on the upper part of the spring, and a thread on the lower part. From below, using the corners, we make a knot of hinges, with a hole of about one centimeter.

It is welded to the frame near the bottom rib and the middle of the hole intended for the lifting system lever, at a distance of about twelve centimeters.

Step 5: Making guides and rails

We weld the tension adjustment plate onto the end of the lever. We make guides from the corners. They are welded in such a way that inner size be five centimeters.

The frame is formed using a thick corner. For a 25-gauge fabric, it is best to use a 75-gauge corner, and for a 50-gauge fabric, a hundred-hundredth corner.

Clamps are attached to the edges of the rails, which will hold the sash in the open and closed position and prevent the rollers from sliding into the rails.

We bolt the rails to the wall, accurately measuring the level; it is best to do this with the gate halfway open so that the rollers are in the middle of both rails.

Step 6: Final stage

After all installation work is completed, the entire system must be painted so that the metal does not corrode and does not deteriorate too quickly. Hard-to-reach places and places adjacent to walls and other surfaces should be painted before installation. After this, after letting the structure dry, you can begin to use it.

We make automation

Having made lifting gates with your own hands, you should think about automating them, since constantly running around and opening them is not always convenient. For example, in winter time or when it’s pouring rain, you don’t really want to go out and tinker with locks and other things. It is best to do this while sitting in the car or only when leaving the house.

Automating swing or tilt gates is very simple; you only need to purchase a suitable drive and install it according to the instructions included in the kit.

All drawings must be present there and the drawings will show you clearly how to install. The mechanism for swing gates depends on the method of its installation and can be of the following varieties:

Installation is carried out on the door leaf.
Mounted on guides.
The drive is installed on the side racks.

You need to decide which one is more suitable for you, as it will depend on the design features, the weight of the gate, your preferences and other factors.

In the article we will look at how to make a garage door with your own hands. The main advantage of such a gate is that when the garage opens, the door moves to the ceiling in the garage, and this is much more convenient than in the case of swing gates.

So, you have decided to install overhead gates in your garage, and do it yourself. The most simple design lifting gates is the one that was installed on “shell” type garages. However, these gates have a technological gap from the gate leaf to the opening. Naturally, this is unacceptable, since in our conditions the garage must be insulated, and the presence of even a small gap is completely inappropriate.

It is required that the fit of the closed gate to the opening be made as tight as possible; in addition, the gate should have a wicket in order to winter period do not force cold air into the garage building while the door is fully open.

Overhead garage doors

To make a garage door frame, you can use an aluminum profile, and to arrange a frame for a gate, you can use wooden blocks. WITH outside A corrugated sheet or any other lightweight finishing material is attached to the gate frame with self-tapping screws.

After performing these steps, we get a gate in which the gate opens to the street side. The gate should open in such a way that when the gate is raised, it does not open on its own (this is fraught with injury).

The size of the gate is larger than the length of the opening (about 10 cm). This is done in order to ensure that there is no gap between the gate and the wall of the building (5 cm on the inner sides).

The lower part of the canvas on the sides needs to be equipped with wheels; I used wheels from ordinary roller skates. And so that they could easily move along the wall of the garage, I installed vertical guides: I bought a profile for installing drywall (metal thickness 0.6 mm) from a hardware store (UD) and used them as guides. From the beginning I thought it would bend, but practice has shown that there is not a very large load on the sidewalls of the profile and it can withstand it quite well.

The doors are hung with chains (later replaced with 25x4mm metal strips) on the front wall of the garage building in such a way that the center of gravity of the leaf is lower than their fastening, and the location of the upper part is close to the opening.

When closed, the position of the lower edge of the leaf should be in a special recess; this is necessary so that the gate does not move away from the building. The canvas should be pressed against the gate opening under the influence of its weight. In the lowest position, the gate must be locked, for which a special latch is attached to it from the inside.

What it all looks like in practice:

Another simple and inexpensive option for a gate lifting mechanism

To make it easier to lift the gate leaf and make it easier to maintain it in the uppermost position, it is necessary to equip the structure with a counterweight, the selection of which is made in accordance with the weight of the leaf. The roller axles are equipped with cables, which must be passed through the blocks and loaded with a counterweight.

At the bottom of the gate, from the outside, you should install the usual door handle, which helps with closing and opening gates because it is convenient to use.

That's all about production technology. Using these instructions, you can easily build a lift-type gate in your garage.

Several more options for overhead garage doors - video

Gates that do not open with leaves, but slowly disappear from our eyes, “driving away” along the walls of the garage, are convenient because they do not interfere, are not bulky, and do not take up space. The owner of such a device does not need to think about where it will be placed when opening, when a garage is being built, there is no option for “difficulties in winter due to snow.” When opening such an entrance, only the lower part of the gate door near the garage ceiling is visible. Overhead gates are very secure because they are essentially a single piece of wood or metal and are very difficult to break into. If you galvanize them, they will also be very resistant to corrosion. The door will reliably protect against thieves, keep heat inside the building and will become very convenient and easy to use, but buying it is very expensive. Much cheaper and more interesting to do Do-it-yourself lifting garage doors.

Important! Before making such gates, you need to understand that they also have disadvantages:
All you need is a rectangular opening for the entrance to the garage; an arch will not work, except for decorative purposes.
You must first open the gate, and then drive close to the garage (you need about one and a half meters of space). When the gate is open, the height of the garage decreases by 15-20 cm.

Overhead gates are very secure because they are essentially a single piece of wood or metal and are very difficult to break into.

A model with sections is a canvas made up of blocks of wood, plastic, or steel, about 1.5 m in size. When this door is lifted, the blocks are “pulled” upward and then returned back the same way. Inside wooden canvas will be filled with polyurethane foam, which will not let the cold into the garage in winter. The panels are connected by hinge-type hinges, the moving parts consist of steel or plastic (steel is better, they will last longer), and the guide skids are resistant to destruction and rust due to their composition.
Unfortunately, such a door is almost impossible to make yourself, and breaking it is quite simple. You can buy a ready-made prefabricated kit and install the door to get its main advantage - simplicity and ease for the owner.

Lift-and-pivot doors - during movement, the doors “drive” under the roof using the action of hinges and levers. Such a door is very reliable and it is very difficult for an attacker to break it in order to rob a garage. They are also quiet during lifting, because they do not use “moving” elements: guides and rollers, and while using them, it is quite difficult to pinch your finger. This is an expensive choice, about 60 thousand rubles. for the object and 15 thousand for installation.

Important! Gates can also be without automation, manually operated or automatic with an electric drive. Naturally, the former are cheaper. The cost will be from 14 to 75 thousand rubles. From 7 to 15 thousand they pay for installation. You can buy the parts separately, but is it worth the hassle? It’s easier to purchase an installation kit so that you can assemble and install it later. Each type of door comes with detailed description step-by-step assembly.

Lift-and-pivot doors - during movement, the doors “drive” under the roof using the action of hinges and levers

This type of door includes a frame, a lifting leaf and a mechanism that opens the door. Steel or wooden frame mounted in the opening, profiles directly for the canvas must be placed in the box. It is made from wooden planks, sandwich panels, it should be covered with metal. Door made from whole piece wood, a very expensive pleasure, the choice is simpler - boards impregnated chemical composition, which will protect from the weather and covered with metal, painted in any color. You can cover the tree with pieces of pressed foam or other insulating material.

Before you start making gates, you need to study available methods rise.

Method when using hinges and levers. The simple design promises reliability, but you need to very successfully install the guide profiles and carefully adjust the spring tension. The profiles should be placed parallel and evenly.
Counterweight method. The cable is attached downwards at the corners of the frame, passed through a block, led to the winch pulley, and at its end there is a counterweight. Its mass will be commensurate with the weight of the gate. This option means that the frame and frame will be subject to considerable load; it is recommended to choose such a mechanism exclusively for huge gates. Next step: gate design. We measure the opening and draw a sketch (we look for drawings on the Internet).

Important You will need the following parts: a metal rod for the voltage regulator, diameter 8 mm; corner for rail section – 40 x 40 x 4 mm, for frame – 3.5x3.5x0.4 cm; wooden blocks with a section of 12 by 8 and ceiling 10 by 10; channel bracket 8 x 4.3 x 0.5 cm; metal pins; spring diameter 3 cm.

The box is assembled from wooden blocks, their ends are connected by steel plates or corners, and the bottom goes 2 cm deep into the floor, then we fix it into the opening with steel pins.

This type of door includes a frame, a lifting leaf and a mechanism that opens the door.

The frame is made like this: take a thick corner, its parameters are directly dependent on the panel fabric, with 25, take the 75th, with 50, the 100th corner. Next, we measure the garage and prepare the opening for attaching the frame, you need to make sure that its surfaces are smooth and even, if this is not the case, we take the grinder in our hands and work. Next, we look for a workspace for the welding process. We will have 2 channels lying on the welding site, their parameters are 20 cm smaller than the frame. We cut the corners to length at both ends, making sure that they fit tightly. We weld them together, make cuts and use four (five) electrodes, create a frame, but do not weld them very tightly. We apply it to the opening and control the density; if it is not there, then we adjust what happened and weld it again, then we clean the seams. We do the same with the second part of the frame, then do the same on the second wall, the frame should be made double - internal and external, install it.

A support for the channel bracket is made from the corner, a hole is made in one shelf to secure it to the racks, and 3 holes are made in the other to secure the spring bracket. We secure the bracket by drilling 3 holes in one of the shelves. Next, we make an adjustment plate from an iron strip and use it to connect the spring and bracket. We bend the last turns of the spring with hooks, attaching a tension regulator from a rod to the bottom. We create a hinge corner for the lower part from the corner, drill a hole of 8.5 mm and weld it to the frame, retreating from the lower edge to the central part of the hole. Thus, we prepare for the manufacture of a lever for lifting on a 12-cm hinge. Next, we weld to its end and attach a plate for the voltage regulator.

We will need two corners for the gate to move. We take two corners, butt them together and connect them along the edge so that the distance between the tops is at least 5 cm. We weld the rail to the plate with holes, leaving 8 cm between the lower edge of the cross member and the axis of the guide. Weld a piece of channel with an indentation of 12-15 to the second end of the rail cm. Next, we attach it to the ceiling beam. You can install additional protection devices if desired, as well as rubber edging and linings, they will make the structure more stable and will give stability to the structure.

Garage Doors

It is advised to pour concrete into a trench along the length of the stroke between the side posts, press the channel parallel to the ground, and when it hardens, weld both frames.

Installation of the canvas

We measure the diagonal, taking into account the dimensions, attach it by welding, all kinds of gaps are eliminated, we clean the seams and install the canvas. We attach the brackets and guides, their horizontal must be made ideal, then: we insulate the canvas, fasten a metal sheet, we clean the seams and degrease them. We adjust the springs and secure the internal fittings. The entire celebration of work and construction will take two to three days.

The option is complicated, but they are airtight and better protect the room. They can be electric or manual. The first option is convenient; just press a button or remote control and you’re done. But manual drive It breaks less often, and it’s easier to make a shield for it. Required Parts impossible to make at home. Parts cannot be purchased on the market; it is better to buy a factory kit.

The garage doorway should be measured and assessed whether a standard door leaf will fit, and also check that the side parts and the top and bottom of the opening are in the same plane. To the heights doorway add 50 cm (if the gate is with a drive - 100 cm), this is the length of the garage required for the gate to rest on its ceiling.

The option is complicated, but they are airtight and better protect the room

Sectional doors consist of a door leaf, locks, a movement mechanism, a spring balancing mechanism and guide modules. Tires are attached to the edges of the opening, which are driven under the ceiling, and the gate moves along them. It is better to buy polymer sections; they are practically resistant to corrosion, do not create noise, and can withstand temperatures of -50 – +60.

Installation diagram

Create markings to secure the frame and constituent elements. Assemble the frame structure (not much different from a similar algorithm for up-and-over gates). Everything is standard: we install the frame, bolt the guides to the ceiling, but there is no need to drill holes or make other structures to hold it suspended. We assemble the canvas, starting from the bottom, and equip the panel elements with rollers. We protect the structure with casings. We check - if everything is done correctly, the canvas will not move on its own, hovering at the level at which it was installed.

It’s worth saying in conclusion - homemade sectional doors must be safe. The bet is your own car, or even your life. You should be extremely careful about the installation rules, adhere to safety precautions and pay a small amount to a specialist who will check the quality of the door installation after the owner’s efforts.

Do-it-yourself lifting gates

We install overhead garage doors with our own hands

Up-and-over gates are the most convenient, reliable, practical, but quite expensive type of enclosing structure for a garage. In the open position, they take a horizontal position and move forward slightly, forming a small canopy over the entrance.

Their pros and cons, as well as self-installation, will be discussed in this article.

Advantages and disadvantages of this type of gate

The up-and-over design has several clear advantages over other types of garage doors:

durable solid fabric provides reliable protection from unauthorized entry and burglary;
characterized by high resistance to corrosion and other negative consequences impact external environment(subject to manufacturing technology and recommendations for the selection of materials);
does not require space to open;
V open state does not take up useful space;
involves finishing with different facing materials, allows decoration with any inserts and panels;
can be insulated with special polystyrene foam panels;
can be opened manually or equipped with automatic system opening;
Suitable for installation in single and double garages.

The disadvantages of up-and-over gates are mainly associated with some limitations and features of the design itself, which are expressed in the following:

it can only be installed in rectangular openings;
when open, reduces the height of the opening (approximately 20 cm).
The one-piece door leaf makes it impossible to repair individual sections - in case of damage it is required complete replacement the entire element;
the gates are equipped with a spring mechanism, which is designed for a certain mass of the structure, therefore, when performing thermal insulation, the weight of the insulation should be taken into account: if the mass of the insulated gate increases significantly, it is necessary to install counterweights;
There may be gaps between the leaf and the frame, which can be eliminated using a rubber seal, but it is recommended to install such gates only in unheated garages.

Gate operating principle

The design of up-and-over (panel) gates is quite different simple device. It consists of frames, canvas and guides along which it rotates around its axis, moving from vertical to horizontal position and back.

The basis is a steel frame, which is fixed in the garage opening or behind it and is the leading part when the gate moves. Pipes are usually used for its manufacture rectangular section.

When the gate is opened, a roller mechanism and lifting arms are activated, with the help of which the gate leaf moves along the guides and is then fixed under the garage ceiling. Bottom part the canvas rises up and forms a canopy over the garage opening. The compensation springs stretch when the gate is closed, but remain free when the gate is open.

Gate in open position

The opening mechanism for this type of gate is of two types:

Articulated lever- a simple, reliable and most popular mechanism that ensures simple movement of the shield and prevents it from blocking. Mandatory requirements: careful adjustment of spring tension and high accuracy installation of guides.
On counterweights– this mechanism consists of a cable attached to the lower corners of the frame and passing through the block, as well as a counterweight mounted on the opposite edge of the winch. This mechanism is recommended for use for massive gates with a lot of weight.

Control of panel garage doors can be manual or using an electric drive (usually with a remote control).

Selection of materials

Materials for up-and-over garage doors should be selected depending on the mechanism and leaf used. For the simplest gates that you can make with your own hands, you will need (all measurements are given in centimeters):

wooden blocks: for a box with a section of 12x8, for a ceiling - 10x10;
metal pins;
corner: for frame - 3.5x3.5x0.4, for rails - 4x4x0.4 cm;
channel bracket 8x4.3x0.5;
spring with an internal diameter of 3 cm;
metal rod with a cross-section of 0.8 (for the tension regulator);
electric drive (if gate automation is provided);
canvas.

As a canvas, you can use a board made of boards covered with metal, a solid canvas or a sandwich panel.

For self-made gates the best option is a board panel covered with galvanized iron and covered protective composition. For thermal insulation, you can use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or insulation in mats, and to improve appearance– veneer finished gates wood panels or plastic.

Self-assembled gates

Necessary tools for work

For self-installation up-and-over garage doors will require a traditional set of tools:

level;
hammer;
pencil;
drill;
spanners;
screwdrivers;
drill;
Bulgarian;
welding machine.

The first step in installing a gate is designing it. For this it is necessary measure the opening and draw up a sketch yourself or select a ready-made drawing.

Drawing of up and over gates

After this, materials and tools are purchased and the actual work of making the gate begins:

A box is assembled from bars, which are fastened together with squares or metal plates.
The box is fixed in the opening and secured with pins, the bottom is buried approximately 2 cm into the floor screed.
The gate leaf is assembled: the frame is sheathed with a shield and covered with sheet metal.
A mechanism support is made from a corner, two holes with a diameter of 1 cm are drilled in one shelf for fixing to the longitudinal posts, and three more are drilled in the other for fastening the spring bracket. To attach the channel bracket, used as a support for the spring, 3 holes are drilled in one of the shelves.
The bracket and the spring are connected using an adjustment plate made from a strip of iron. The outer coils of the spring are used as hooks, and a tension regulator made of a rod is attached to the bottom. On one side a ring is formed, on the other a thread is cut.
The hinge unit at the bottom is made from a corner with a hole (0.85 cm) and welded to the frame between the lower rib and the middle of the hole for the lifting mechanism lever at a distance of 12 cm.
A plate with a hole for the tension regulator is welded to the end of the lever.
Rails are made for the movement of the shield: 2 corners are made, and the edges of their shelves are welded so that the internal space between their tops is 5 cm.
One end of such a rail is welded to a plate with holes. There should be a gap of 8 cm between the center line of the guide and the lower edge of the crossbar. The channel pieces are welded to the other edges of the rails at a distance of 14-15 cm. The channel is attached to the ceiling beam with a bolt.

After assembly is completed, the structure is painted to give it an aesthetic appearance, hard to reach places It is recommended to paint before assembly.

It is recommended to use welding to assemble parts, which will reduce the need for fastening and drilling holes;
the height of the gate opening should not be less than 2.2 meters, and the distance from the top of the opening to the ceiling should be 0.35-0.5 meters;
if the rise is low, the drum should be located at the rear;
there should be a groove in the lower profile of the canvas into which the seal is installed;
the weight of the canvas is very important parameter, his optimal value is 100 kg;
as a drive you can install a reversible self-locking winch (220 V, 350 W, traction force - 125 kg);
To install automation, you can use a car alarm.

For ease of use, the canvas can be made with inserts made of translucent materials, which will increase the amount of light, and also be equipped with locking devices and security systems that protect against pinching or prevent break-ins.

Homemade up-and-over gates are the most economical opportunity to close a garage opening without limiting the functionality, ease of use and originality of their design.

The video shows a detailed story about self-production up-and-over garage doors:

To date, many garage door designs have been developed and put into practice. In terms of ease of use, hinged ones are in many ways inferior to sliding ones, but still remain the most reliable. There is simply nothing to break in them. The design is simple, so any car owner can make a swing gate for a garage with his own hands.

Swing gates can be either double-leafed or single-leafed

Before you begin to implement your idea, you need to clearly understand what swing gates are, what elements they consist of and how they work. There are two types of this design:

with one leaf;
with two.

The first option is not suitable for a garage, since the dimensions of one door will be too large and it will be inconvenient to open it.

Double doors consist of several elements:

frame made of metal corner, round or profiled pipe;
valves;
gates in one of the doors, if provided for by the project;
loops;
jib/beam/lintel;
bolt and/or lock.

Assembly and installation of swing gates is simple. But those who do not have experience in manufacturing and installing such structures will need detailed instructions, taking into account all the nuances of each stage of work.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of swing gates is reliability. But this is far from their only advantage. The simplicity of the design provides other advantages:

there is no need to configure and maintain the automation;
among budget alternative options sectional, lifting and sliding gates there are no comparable in cost to swing ones - the latter are always more affordable;
you can install automation: drives that open and close the doors;
there is no need to strengthen the opening and the top floor, which is often required when installing sectional or overhead doors;
the possibility of insulating the doors and frame;
many door design options.

The main disadvantage is the need to get out of the car and close/open the gate under any, most unfavorable, weather conditions. In addition, in winter it is necessary to clear the space in front of them from snow.

What materials can it be made from?

Swing gates made of profile pipes with correct production and long life is guaranteed

Despite the wide choice building materials, reliable swing gates can be made in several ways.

Option #1:

Metal corner 50x5033 mm - for making the frame of the doors and the jibs or crossbars reinforcing it.
Sheets of cold-rolled metal 2.5-3 mm thick. They are attached to the frame with a 3 cm outlet. Welding is used.
4 loops with a cross section of 25 mm, dimensions 30x160 mm. Welded onto metal sheets through additional metal plates.

Option #2:

Rectangular pipe 40x40x2.5 mm or 50-50-2.5 mm for the frame of the sashes and reinforcing elements.
Sheets of metal 1.5-2 mm thick are fixed to the frame with rivets.
4-6 loops.
4 metal plates for hinges.

For the installation of gate posts, pipes of 80x80x3 mm are used. The upper beam, which reinforces the opening, is made of channel No. 16 (shelf height 160 mm) or No. 18, depending on the width of the gate. The threshold can be made from the same materials: a profile pipe or a metal corner.

Most reliable way installation of swing gates in the garage - mount a frame from channel No. 24 under them and install it at the stage of construction of walls and ceilings. If this is not possible, elements reinforcing the opening are installed: an upper beam, a threshold and racks for the sashes.

Reference! The proposed material options for installing swing gates in the garage are universal and suitable for any buildings: brick, concrete, wood, foam and gas blocks. The only exception is a garage made of metal profiles. Such buildings require lightweight structures.

For garages, “flexible” gates are made from metal profiles, so that each leaf can be pressed against the opening with minimal effort. The frame of such structures consists of a bent profile with an open section (l- or u-shaped). The sashes are installed on 4-6 hinges.

Gates with a rigid frame are designed and manufactured in such a way that the leaves fit the opening with a minimum gap and immediately close with the provided locks, without applying additional effort. Accurate data on the required materials in a particular case can be obtained through calculations.

Calculation

You can make the calculation manually, using formulas, or using a special calculator

Professional calculation of strength characteristics and geometric parameters materials for the manufacture of garage doors are performed using a set of complex mathematical formulas. The following factors are taken into account:

opening rigidity;
deplaning deformations for given dimensions of the valves and the use of a certain material;
bending strength;
twisting forces (from wind pressure, weight load, mechanical influences).

For execution accurate calculations specialized calculators have been developed. If necessary, you can use them.

Required materials and tools

To manufacture swing gates (with a wicket) with dimensions of 2200x3000 mm, you will need not only materials and tools. Adaptations will also be needed, since swing garage doors are manufactured/welded only in a horizontal position.

Materials

The profile pipe is ready for use

Metal corner 50x50x2 mm, length 2.2 m - 2 pieces (a total of 4.4 m of corner will be required).
Profile pipe 50x25x2 mm, length 3 m – 2 pcs.
Sheets of cold-rolled metal (can be replaced with hot-rolled) 1250x2500 mm, 2 or 3 mm thick - 3 pcs.
Profile pipe 40x25 mm (or 40x20 mm) 2.2 m long - 9 pcs (necessary for the manufacture of horizontal strips of sashes and gates).
Profile pipe 40x20 mm, 3 m long – 3 pcs (for the manufacture of vertical slats for the frame of the sashes).
Profile pipe 40x40 mm, 3 m long – 1 piece (for mounting a vertical strip at the junction of the working doors, holes for the lock and bolts are also formed in it)
Additional elements: steel plates for hinges and to strengthen the joints of the frame, steel rods.
Level lock.
Garage bolts: vertical and horizontal.
Primer for metal.
Solvent No. 646.
Dye.
Insulating tape.
Coarse to medium grit sandpaper.

Reference! Using a profile pipe to construct a threshold is a reasonable solution. With this design, the gate frames are raised above the level of the parking area by 20-25 mm. Due to this rainwater will not leak inside the room.

Tools

Welding machine.
Electrodes.
Sledgehammer, hammers.
Grinder, metal wheels.
Drill, drill bits.
Hammer.
Screwdriver Set.
Bolts with nuts, self-tapping screws.
Clamps.
Level (preferably laser).
Tape measure or rangefinder.

Important! Before you start working with welding machine, you need to make sure that the garage wiring can withstand this load.

When calculating and purchasing materials, take into account the need for framing (a double frame with horizontal crosspieces) of the garage opening. For its manufacture and installation you will need the same materials and tools. You can use a metal corner, channel, profile pipes. The strapping is an optional element of the gate design; it is necessary to strengthen the opening and the structure as a whole.

Adaptations

To perform cutting and assembly work you will need two tables: the main and auxiliary. The dimensions of the main one should be such that both doors and frames fit on it. The table surface must be level. Otherwise, there is a high risk of distortion. The table must be durable, able to withstand the weight of metal, tools and blows with a sledgehammer.

Preparatory work

Preparing the opening

Preparing the opening involves performing several steps:

Make sure that the walls on both sides of the opening do not have cracks or deformations.
Dismantled old design, if it exists.
Align the opening (if necessary).
Clean surfaces from dirt, cement and plaster deposits.

Step-by-step instructions for making metal swing gates

Installation of metal swing gates for a garage can be done in two ways.

Option #1:

The Bulgarian went into action

Step 1. Cutting materials: cut corners and pipes with a grinder required sizes corresponding to the drawing or project.

Step 2. Assembling the double frame.

Two vertical strips, the length of which corresponds to the height of the gate, are connected by welding to each other with horizontal jumpers (steel strips).
Holes are drilled in the wall of the opening for fasteners, for which pins from reinforcement can be used. The minimum depth of holes is 200 mm.
Dust the holes.
They are filled with cement-sand mortar.
Use a sledgehammer to hammer in the pins.
On the protruding part of the pins, measure 50 mm and cut off the excess with a grinder. There is another option for performing this task: cut the pins flush with the frame and scald them after installing it.
Install the frame.
The protruding parts of the reinforcement are bent with a sledgehammer.

Installation work is performed using a plumb line and level. Install the second one in the same way vertical stand frames

Step 3. Marking the horizontal line for installing the top beam and threshold. When performing work, use a laser level.

Step 4. According to the instructions given in step No. 2, install the horizontal frame beams.

Step 5. The frame of both doors is assembled on the table. Do not forget about the need for reinforcing crossbars, which can be arranged in an x-shape, t-shape or according to the principle of horizontal jumpers. If a gate is provided, its frame is welded from the appropriate elements.

Step 6. Weld the hinges.

Step 7. Hang the sashes.

Step 8. Weld the metal sheets (sew up the sashes).

Sheets for sash cladding must have an outlet at the top and bottom of at least 20 mm.
The center should be covered by the overlap of one of the sashes.

Step 9. Clean the metal from the effects of welding.

Step 10. Cover with anti-corrosion primer.

Step 11. Install locks and latches.

Step 12. Paint the gate.

If necessary, insulate the doors and openings.

Option #2:

The second option for manufacturing swing gates is suitable if there are no conditions for construction perfectionism

This method of manufacturing a sash frame is optimal in situations where it is not possible to build a perfectly flat horizontal surface for assembling the frame.

Step 1. Making scarves. 4 identical strips 50 cm long are cut from a metal corner. They are grabbed at several points to the frame of the opening. The scarf is an auxiliary element that will subsequently be cut off with a grinder. Therefore, continuous welding is not required.

Step 2. Cut 4 strips to make the sash frame.

Step 3. The corners prepared at the previous stage are welded to the gussets so that a “frame within a frame” design is obtained. Continuous welding is needed only in the inner corners (for sashes).

Step 4. Installation of stiffeners. If one of the doors has a gate, its frame is welded.

Step 5. Installation of canopies/hinges. Use products with a male-female connection. The “father” is fixed to the frame of the opening, the “mother” is fixed to the gate wings.

Step 6. Using a grinder, cut the frame of the doors in the middle vertically.

Step 7. Cut off the scarves.

Step 8. The doors are sheathed with sheets of metal or other material chosen at the design stage.

Video: DIY swing garage doors

Features of care and operation

Properly manufactured and installed swing gates have a large margin of safety. To ensure that their operational life is not exhausted prematurely, it is necessary to observe several simple rules service.

Keep metal structures clean.
Renew the protective paint coating in a timely manner.
Avoid mechanical damage to the skin: dents and paint chips.
Do not clean painted structural elements using scrapers, stiff bristle brushes, washes or solvents.
Before opening/closing the doors, make sure that there are no obstacles in the way of their movement.
Do not allow weight loads on the gate leaves.
The hinges are periodically lubricated with Litol or something similar.

The process of making swing gates in a garage is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. All stages of this task, from design to painting the finished structure, can be done with your own hands. This will significantly reduce the cost of the garage improvement estimate.