Garage made of metal profile. We build a garage from a metal profile with our own hands: construction of a frame from a profile pipe, drawings and photos. Garage made of metal profiles: design features

A garage made of metal profiles is the most convenient option construction of a garage. This design is quickly erected and does not require professional installation skills. The garage can be installed as temporary parking, for example, in a country house. Also build a stationary version with an inspection hole, insulation and power supply. In order to build a garage from a metal profile with your own hands, it is worth studying theoretical materials and listening to the recommendations and advice of experts.

Basic provisions

To build a garage building with an inspection pit, the following factors must be taken into account:

draw up a plan-drawing of the future structure;
draw up an estimate and purchase all the necessary construction materials and tools;
you can choose the simplest type of foundation - strip;
inspection hole should be equipped with ready-made concrete blocks;
It is advisable to install the floor using a concrete screed;
the walls should be a frame, which is assembled from metal profile, sheathed on both sides sheet metal and insulated;
the roof is made in the form of a pair of rafters made of profiled metal or simply pitched.

Construction of the foundation

You need to start building the foundation by marking the selected area, according to the plan. The typical size of a garage is 3 by 5 meters. First, soil is selected to a depth of half a meter. The site is leveled, covered with sand or fine gravel and compacted.

A pit is dug where there should be an inspection hole. Its dimensions should be one meter more sizes planned pit. The bottom of the pit is also compacted; a layer of sand must first be backfilled. If groundwater is located close to the site chosen for the construction of a garage, then drainage should be made around the perimeter of the inspection hole. Drainage pipes are discharged into the nearest body of water or sewerage system.

Using pegs and a cord, the perimeter is marked strip foundation. Concrete slabs are laid in prepared recesses along the entire perimeter of the foundation and connected concrete mortar. The walls of the inspection pit are also mounted from concrete slabs, and the corners are strengthened and leveled with red brick.

After cement mortar froze, with the help bitumen mastic or rolled material is used to waterproof the pit walls.

Making the floor

The floor in a garage is usually concrete. To lay concrete, the floor is covered with sand 10 centimeters below the walls of the inspection pit. A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the foundation. It is needed to avoid deformation of the floor when the temperature changes. A waterproofing layer is laid on the compacted sand. It should extend more than 16 centimeters onto the foundation walls. Roofing felt or thick polyethylene film can be used as a waterproofing material.

Mounted on waterproofing reinforcement mesh, a concrete screed is poured on top and the outer surface of the floor is usually leveled. The screed should dry thoroughly within 3 weeks.

Frame installation

The frame is installed according to the planned plan. The side walls are constructed from metal profiles. The profiles are cut to size and fastened together using self-tapping screws. Each wall is assembled separately on a flat surface. It is necessary to make the top of the side walls with a slight slope towards the rear wall. Then there will be no problems when laying the roof.

Vertical racks are arranged in such a way that there are three racks per profile. The rear wall is designed depending on the shape of the roof. If the roof is single-pitched, then the wall is flat; if it is gable, then it is in the shape of a triangle according to the size of the roof. For this purpose, an additional triangular pediment and connects to the back wall.

The front wall will consist of two parts: the gate opening and the pediment. The gate opening is made in the form of a rectangular frame, which is reinforced with additional metal profiles. The gates themselves consist of two panels, which are assembled from profiles and reinforced with stiffening ribs.

The garage frame is assembled on a foundation, the walls are fastened together with self-tapping screws. And with self-tapping screws, using corners, the frame is attached to the foundation. You can use dowels for reliability.

Roof

A simple roof option is a pitched roof. It is also mounted from metal profiles and attached with self-tapping screws to the walls of the garage. If necessary, you can use corners for secure fastening. The roof should have a slight slope towards back wall, in order to rainwater did not accumulate, but flowed down. This must be provided for when installing the side walls. If selected gable roof, then first, rafter pairs reinforced with slopes are installed. Number rafter pairs should be equal to the number of side vertical posts. The roof sheets are attached to the rafters, slopes and side walls with self-tapping screws.

Insulation

In any case, you need to insulate your garage. For this purpose, mineral or glass wool is used. It is better to use cotton wool in the form of mats. Such cotton mats are attached to the walls between the metal profile posts using special glue or longitudinal slats. The thickness of the mats is from five to ten centimeters.

Mineral wool is preferred because it is resistant to fire. A vapor-moisture insulating film can be attached over the insulation. All this can be refined using thin aluminum sheets. But it is better to leave it as is, because the additional coating may promote the formation of condensation.

The gate trim is made from profiled metal sheets. You can paint the finished structure with anti-corrosion paint. This way the garage will last longer.

You can build a door into the garage door, but this depends on the owner.

Video: how to build a garage from metal profiles

Watch a video about assembling a garage frame from a metal profile:

Construction of a garage based on profile pipe rectangular or square section made of galvanized steel - one of the simplest and available ways building a “house” for a car. With the help of simple tools and equipment, you can build a garage within 1-2 days, taking into account the time to arrange the foundation.

Profile pipes are widely used in the construction of prefabricated buildings and structures - hangars, covered markets, kiosks, stalls, warehouse complexes. The pipes show themselves to be durable, but lightweight material for the construction of a frame, which is then sheathed with sheet steel, profiled sheets, plywood or chipboard.

The popularity of profile pipes in construction is due to their advantages:

lightness;
strength;
high speed of frame construction;
durability.

The most compelling argument in favor of profile pipes is their affordable cost. Compared to massive buildings made of brick, cinder blocks, foam or aerated concrete blocks, constructing a garage will cost the user several times less. In this case, there is no need to waste time on the lengthy process of erecting walls and subsidence of the building, which often takes up to 6 months.

Advantages of a garage made of metal profiles

The decision to build a garage from profile pipes is more than justified. The advantages of this method of constructing a low-rise building include both economic and practical aspects.

Low total cost of construction, including foundation construction.
Easy to do. No special skills are required to assemble the frame. Anyone who knows how to use a welder, pliers and a screwdriver can do the job. It does not require any complex equipment, tools or outside help to implement the project.
A simple, lightweight and inexpensive foundation. A garage based on metal profile pipes, even with cladding and roofing, weighs very little, so its installation does not require a massive monolithic foundation. It will be enough to build a simple strip, pillar or tile base.
Strength. Despite the apparent vulnerability, the structure based on all-metal profiles turns out to be quite strong and stable. It withstands shock and vibration, high and low temperatures, and wind loads.
Possibility of dismantling and transportation. Made frame garage can be easily disassembled in a few hours or transported assembled using a crane and low-loader tractor.

July 22, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.

You, of course, have watched the feature film “Kin-za-dza” and you know that if you don’t build a reliable shelter for vehicle, there is a possibility of being left without it altogether. Or without the necessary spare parts.

In general, I am a supporter of the idea that your favorite car should be in a safe house. Even if it itself is located on the territory summer cottage. This way, the equipment will be reliably protected from rain, snow, wind, hail, bird droppings and other equally dangerous troubles.

Some build permanent structures made of brick or cinder block for their cars, or make a place for the car directly in the house. But I sincerely believe that it is better to make a garage frame from a profile pipe with your own hands and cover it with any suitable sheet material (in my case, a profiled sheet). This will be quite enough for the structure to fulfill the tasks assigned to it.

That's exactly what I did in my time garden plot, which is what I want to tell you about today. The instructions below provide comprehensive information necessary for construction. You will only need to stock up on materials and tools, after which you can safely begin construction.

Advantages and disadvantages of the design (Article 1)

First, for those who have doubts, I’ll explain how much I think about profiled sheets and a frame made from a profile pipe for a garage the best materials for construction.

For me personally, the determining factors when choosing a project were:

Affordable construction price. Thin corrugated sheets of metal and rectangular pipes will cost much less than required amount or foam blocks. And this is not to mention other necessary materials.
Inexpensive and lightweight foundation. The weight of the future structure will be small, so there is no need to construct a powerful base. It will save you cash, time and effort to build a shelter for your beloved car.
Ease of work. The process itself, with proper skill, is no more difficult than building a house from a children's construction set. Especially if you strictly follow the advice I give in this article.
Strength. Despite the apparent flimsiness of a frame garage, thanks to the use of a profile pipe, the structure will be very strong and will withstand even hurricane winds. Well, and a considerable layer of snow on top.
Possibility of dismantling. If during assembly you, like me, will use detachable connections(bolts and nuts instead of welding), then this entire house can be easily disassembled and transported to a new place. Or sell it.

I liked this design so much that later on my site I built many more auxiliary houses (barn and Summer shower) from profile pipes. But I’ll tell you about this later, now I won’t break away from the topic.

I cannot help but mention one flaw in the structure. Due to the metal walls being too thin, it will be cold inside the garage. Therefore, you will have to insulate it with mineral mats, fiberglass, polystyrene foam or other similar material.

You can immediately make both a room for a car and a workshop. I have a homemade stove made from a pipe for the garage, so there I can make something around the house or for work, even in winter.
Or sit quietly and watch TV. Well, the wife doesn’t distract me either.

Construction of a car house

In general, I think the previous section convinced you of the feasibility of erecting the structure described. Therefore, I will smoothly move on to describing the necessary stages of work.

Design

For construction, you will definitely need a drawing of a garage made from a profile pipe. It helps to calculate the required amount of materials for construction and allows you to correctly complete all stages of the work.

You can choose the dimensions of the future structure yourself, depending on the make of the car. Most often I built garages measuring 3 by 6 and 4 by 6 meters. But if you plan to arrange a space there for storing spare parts or tools, and even more so a workshop, the dimensions need to be increased.

I’ll give you some tips so you don’t get into trouble after finishing the work:

the width of the room for the vehicle should be one and a half meters larger than the car itself, then the door will open at least half (but since we’re building it, I would advise making it more spacious);
the length of the garage should be 2.5 meters longer than the length of the car;
the height must be calculated so that the ceiling is higher than the top point of the open hood or trunk.

Let me remind you that I brought this minimum dimensions, but it’s better to make the garage more spacious. Especially if you don’t have a Lada Kalina, but a Toyota Land Cruiser.

When designing, you must immediately take into account the features of profiled pipes. So as not to complicate your work. I advise you to immediately pay attention to the following points:

Length of the room. It is necessary to calculate so that the longitudinal pipes do not need to be twisted or welded. That is, for a 6-meter garage you need to immediately stock up on the same rectangular or square parts for the supporting frame.
Assembly method. It can be a welded garage or modular, with detachable connections.

In the first case you will need welding machine and skills to work with it. In return, you save your time, since pipes can be welded very quickly, and money that would otherwise be spent on purchasing additional connecting elements.

Despite all the advantages described, I preferred the second option. Yes, I had to buy several dozen additional brackets, but in return I got a garage, which has many additional advantages for me personally:

easy assembly for one person;
possibility of dismantling and transportation to another location;
possibility of expanding the structure by adding modules.

Required tools and materials

The project that I talked about in the previous section helps me personally in purchasing materials. Having made a diagram, I can always understand how many pipes, connecting elements, corrugated sheets, and so on I need.

Therefore, having completed the design, you can safely start purchasing materials.

It's difficult to give specific advice here. For example, the cross-section of pipes for the supporting frame of a garage depends on how large your structure will be (what if you are building a garage for a bus, I don’t know). In addition, you can take rectangular and square pipes. I prefer the latter as they are easier to connect to each other.

In general, I’ll tell you about myself. I took rolled metal measuring 10 by 10 cm for the main guides, which will support not only corrugated sheets, but also a more massive body kit. The remaining elements (stiffening ribs, roof trusses, etc.) were made from 6 by 6 cm pipes.

For the sheathing and roof, as you already understood, I took profiled sheets in a cheerful green color. But, again, no one bothers you to use metal tiles or anything else.

The only thing is that I would not recommend plywood or clapboard. It will have to be painted, protected from water, and so on. Extra headache.

In addition to the materials itself, you cannot do without tools:

a tape measure at least 10 meters long, since you will have to measure long pipes;
drill with drill bits for working on metal;
grinder with a disc for cutting rolled metal;
marker for marking;
mechanic's wrenches for tightening bolts and nuts when attaching racks.

I always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with metal.
One time metal shavings got into my eye and it hurt for more than a week. Since then I have not risked my health. And I don't recommend it to you.

Construction of the foundation and floor

The construction of any building, including a garage, begins with a garage. I know this very well, so I did the same.

However, at first I racked my brains over choosing the type of foundation. Given the lightness of the structure, three types of foundation could be used here. I have outlined the features of each in the form of a table.

Type	Description
Slab (made of reinforced concrete)	This is the most expensive and time-consuming option. It's about about a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is poured under the entire garage and plays the role of both the base and the floor in the room. If you do not plan to store a tank in the garage, a slab 10 cm thick is enough, which, however, must be reinforced with mesh or metal rods.
Monolithic (tape)	The strip foundation is no less durable and should be done only around the perimeter of the building. That is, where the support frame will be installed. Here, too, I wouldn’t recommend getting too carried away; it’s enough to go 20-30 centimeters into the ground. This is enough to prevent the metal structure from being blown away by the wind. The foundation can be cast from concrete or made from cinder blocks. In my practice, I have encountered both options.
Pile (columnar)	The most, from my point of view, acceptable option. In this case, the frame will be supported by several posts or piles, which are sufficient to hold the structure in place. The advantages of such a solution for me personally are the speed of construction and low cost.

When constructing the foundation, I immediately recommend that you solve one more issue - the floor in the garage. If you make a slab, you don't need to worry about anything else. In all other cases, you will have to design something additional, because you will not simply place your precious car on the ground.

Two options come to my mind (besides the screed):

Using monolithic reinforced concrete slabs. We are talking about finished parts that are used as interfloor ceilings. They need to be purchased from a specialized company, delivered to the construction site and laid in place using a crane, having previously leveled the surface.
This option can be implemented quite quickly, but is very expensive. I would not recommend resorting to it, especially if you are building a lightweight garage from profiled pipes.
Laying paving slabs. A very popular option. Firstly, you can handle its installation yourself, and secondly, the mobility of the structure is not lost. After all, the tiles can be dismantled at any time, just like the structure itself.

The only point is the cost. But I can’t give advice here; everyone decides to the best of their ability.

Regardless of the type of foundation and floor, care must be taken to ensure that the upper level of the foundation rises 20-30 cm above the ground so that rain and melt water does not enter the ground.

There is one more thing that I want to tell you, otherwise they didn’t tell me at the time, and then I had to suffer. In the garage, be sure to dig an inspection hole for the car. Even if you are not very knowledgeable about repairs. Believe me, it will provide considerable assistance, for example, when inspecting the chassis, changing the oil, or adjusting the cable.

Having told you my thoughts, I suggest you familiarize yourself with my diagram own work for the construction of a foundation for a frame garage. I chose columnar foundation, and the supports were made not in the form of piles, but in the form of columns made of brick.

The sequence of actions was as follows:

I cleared the area for the garage and removed all construction garbage, vegetation. I removed the top fertile layer of soil and moved it closer to the house. Then he made it from this land for his wife.
Marked the site. To do this, I transferred all the calculations from the drawing to nature, using white rope and pieces of reinforcement.

I dug post holes along the edges of the garage and in the middle of the long walls. Considering that I was only building a small shelter for a car, and not a hangar for an airplane, there was no need for more supports.
In the depths of the pits I made cushions of sand and crushed stone. To do this, I poured several layers of this mixture there with intermediate compaction and moistening. If this is not done, during operation the soil may settle and your garage will become askew.

Performed waterproofing. To do this, I laid sheets of roofing felt along the walls of the pits.
Posted it support pillars from cinder block. I calculated everything so that these columns would rise above the ground by exactly one cinder block. After the solution hardened, the pillars were also covered with roofing felt. So that rainwater, like groundwater, does not spoil my foundation.

did inside concrete screed, and then (a little later) I laid a special rubberized coating on the floor so that the mineral surface would not collect dust. But that's a slightly different story.

As soon as I finished with the foundation, I took up the frame.

Creating a wireframe

I made the supporting “skeleton” of the garage from a square profile pipe. But no one is stopping you from taking a rectangular one, but connecting the parts to each other will be more difficult.

By the way, there are two technologies for constructing a garage:

Modular assembly. In this case, the garage parts are assembled separately from cut pipes (in this case, all the necessary corners, slopes and stiffeners are immediately installed). After that finished walls and roof trusses are assembled into a finished structure on the foundation.
Assembly on site. In this case, the house for the car is built from sections of pipes on the foundation.

I also resorted to the latter method. Worked like this:

first constructed from two long and two short pipes bottom trim garage;
bolted it together, and then secured it to the foundation (used anchor bolts, which he inserted into pre-drilled holes in the cinder block);
installed vertical slats on the sides using special fasteners;
strengthened corner elements bevels from profiled pipes of smaller cross-section;
installed the top trim on four vertical elements;
screwed it in in the right places(indicated them in advance on the drawing) stiffeners and diagonal jibs;
secured upper trusses on which the roofing material will be installed.

I advise you not to skimp on installation additional elements rigidity when building a garage. If you make the frame too light, it may not withstand the load when hanging the facing material. And subsequently it may collapse in strong winds.

Gate installation

I recommend installing the garage door before you cover the frame with the selected material. You can make them yourself without any problems from the same profiled pipe and corrugated sheet.

It works like this:

From details suitable section(60 by 60 mm is enough), two rectangles are made that will play the role of sashes.
Naturally, so that they do not move during use, in addition to the details around the perimeter, it is necessary to strengthen the sashes with bevels and stiffening ribs.

In one of the doors, I recommend additionally making a gate for pedestrian access. In this case, you will not need to open the gate when going inside to get some part, tool or preservation. This will protect the room from condensation.

After this, you can hang the doors on the garage frame. Loops are used for this. Two pieces, in my opinion, are not enough, especially if heavy sheet material. It is better to install more to avoid problems in the future.
The sheathing of the shutters with corrugated sheets is carried out with the finishing of the rest of the garage.

I did it a little differently by buying sectional doors, rising along a special frame. There I installed an electric motor controlled from a remote control. Now I drive into my garage without lifting my butt from the car seat. Naturally, if for some reason the electricity was not turned off at the dacha.

Sheathing of the structure

If you think that's it complex work behind and you can attach the corrugated sheet to the made frame without any difficulties, then you are, by and large, right. It is not difficult to screw profiled steel sheets to square pipes with self-tapping screws, but in order not to bite your elbows later complaining about mistakes, it is important to choose the right material.

There is corrugated sheeting marked C8, 10 and so on. The number C indicates that such material can be used for wall decoration, and the number indicates the height of the ridge. So, I would not recommend using 8 and 10 for a garage due to their low strength.

If you do, then buy profile C 20 or C21.

In addition to the height, pay attention to the width between the grooves. In general, I advise you to buy those wall profile sheets that have special grooves to remove excess moisture.

Understand the weight too. You cannot buy an outer covering that is too heavy, otherwise the frame will not withstand the loads. It is better to purchase corrugated sheets coated with polyurethane or polyester, which effectively protect the metal from destructive external factors.

As for color, I’m not your advisor. Choose any option that suits your taste.

The installation itself is simple - apply the sheets and screw them with self-tapping screws. It is advisable, even when designing, to choose such dimensions of the structure so that later there is no need to trim. That's exactly what I did.

You need to screw the screws into the deflection of the profile sheet. In this case, you will get a strong fastening and will not break the tightness of the coating. For one square meter Usually 6 to 8 self-tapping screws are enough for a wall. In any case, place the fasteners so that the distance between them does not exceed 1 meter.

By the way, corrugated sheets and metal tiles are not the only options for covering a garage. You can use siding, false beams, eurolining, and so on. But in this case, first you will have to attach OSB sheets or plywood to the garage frame. I didn’t bother with this and I don’t advise you to.

Roof

I made the roof of the garage from four trusses, which I twisted together on the ground in advance, and then, with the help of a partner, I placed them on the top frame of the structure. I did this before covering the frame, so that I had free access to all the places where I had to tighten the bolts.

If you are not very knowledgeable about construction or do not want to bother with gable roof, you can make the roof pitched. To do this, the front wall of the garage is made higher than the back, and the side walls, accordingly, are beveled. The result is a slope from which rain and melt water will flow.

In my case, the material for the roof was profiled sheets. But then I was disappointed in this decision. It is better to finish the roof with the same material that you use to cover other buildings on the site (in my case - bitumen shingles). Then you get a kind of architectural ensemble, and the dacha looks cozy and prestigious.

Do not forget that the edges of the roof should hang 30-40 cm above the walls so that melt water drains from them and does not leak under the foundation of the building.

Insulation of the garage

Considering that the thermal conductivity coefficient of thin metal walls leaves much to be desired, I personally do not consider the construction of a garage from profiled sheets complete until its walls are insulated.

Suitable for this mineral wool, which retains heat well and is fireproof.

The scheme for insulating a car house looks like this:

Waterproofing material must be stretched over the frame. You can simply use polyethylene film or buy a polymer membrane used for insulating residential buildings. You can simply glue it to the frame or use self-tapping screws with wide plastic caps.

On top of the film you need to attach the lathing (slats), which are positioned vertically. In some cases, the sheathing may not be necessary, since its role will be successfully played by the garage frame. But then the waterproofing must be installed before installing the corrugated sheets outside frame.
Insert mineral mats between the sheathing parts. They tend to shrink under pressure and return to their original shape. Therefore, they need to be cut so that the width is greater than the distance between the frame elements.

Another layer of waterproofing is stretched over the insulation on top.
Final stage - interior lining garage. Many people use plywood, but I used plastic. He has an attractive appearance, washes well and does not deteriorate in humid air.

So, let's build frame garage from the profile with your own hands. The strength of such a frame is given by the tubular shape of the blanks with a rectangular or U-shaped cross-section. The type of section allows the use of detachable (dowels and self-tapping screws) and permanent (electric welding) types of fasteners.

For construction frame do it yourself you will need:

metal profile 10x10 cm(for the lower and upper trim of the frame, corner posts);
metal profile 5x5 cm(for additional racks, stiffeners, slopes, roof joists);
thick metal rod 6-8 mm(for reinforcing the foundation and installing corner locks to secure the entire structure on a concrete base);
edged board or OSB (for formwork);
sheet material for exterior finishing garage wall category WITH or NS;
sheet material for garage interior decoration;
roll or film waterproofing;
insulation (in slabs or mats);
membrane film;
fasteners (self-tapping screws for metal, dowels, angles, bolts);
roofing material;
additional parts for sealing corners and joints;
gates;
gate hinges;
bolt, lock;
dry mixture M 400 for solution;
crushed stone, sand.

Important: Consumables should be purchased with a reasonable reserve (10%) to avoid downtime in the construction of the garage due to their shortage.

If construction frame garage carried out on your own, it is advisable to have a partner and the following set of tools:

pegs and nylon cord for marking;
tape measure and level;
bayonet shovel;
concrete mixer;
rule;
metal scissors;
electric saw "grinder";
screwdriver;
electrodes and welding machine (if the structure is mounted by welding).

For your information: Metal constructions for the frame of the garage on 1-2 cars on sale now in ready-made kits- galvanized or with polymer coating. All that remains is to prepare the foundation yourself and assemble the frame.

DIY garage made from metal profiles - photo:

Advantages

Advantages will be obvious both at the start of construction and after its completion:

ease of construction;
choosing any shallow foundation for it;
strength of rigid frame connections;
ease of installation without special equipment;
Fire safety;
preservation of geometry during any soil movements;
ideal wall surface;
minimum time from the start of construction to commissioning (less than a month);
the cost of a garage made of metal profiles with your own hands is several times less than the cost of a capital building;
effective organization of construction site space.

Excavation and filling concrete foundation for a garage, which needs 2 weeks to acquire strength, is proposed for construction frame garage made of galvanized profile for the warm season.

Sequence of work

How to build a garage with your own hands from a metal profile - step-by-step instruction:

The first step is to do it yourself drawing frame garage. All details of the future construction should be marked on it, with all dimensions and methods of connection.

You can find suitable ones on the Internet blueprints metal profile garage for 1-2 cars: detached, attached, combined with other outbuildings.

For calculation required material You can contact online store consultants building materials, to the “experts” on the forums, or make a calculation in an online calculator. It wouldn’t hurt to agree with one of your friends for help during installation.

Do-it-yourself garage made of metal profiles - drawings:

Do-it-yourself garage made of metal profiles for 2 cars - drawings:

Marking and preparing the site (removing turf, leveling the surface).
Excavation work to construct and prepare a pit for an inspection hole or cellar (caisson for vegetable storage).

The best option: permanent place car in the garage away from the inspection hole. If the size of the garage does not allow it, and the pit has to be placed under the car - required wooden shield to close the hole, which causes condensation on equipment.

Device blind areas around the garage (a strip 50 cm wide, with a slight slope).
Device drainage along the perimeter of the inspection hole.

Important: The inspection pit will not flood at the level groundwater below 2.5 meters. If it is above this mark, you shouldn’t even start constructing a pit.

Drainage is needed not only for the inspection hole, but also for the base walls garage to protect against erosion by rain or melt water. Drainage can be done surface or borehole.

In the first case, water will be collected in closed trenches along the perimeter of the building at a distance of 1-3 m (drainage trenches 30 cm deep; a 5 cm layer of gravel is poured onto the bottom, lined with geotextile, and laid at a slope drainage pipe with outlet outside the garage). Collected water can be taken to natural water.

Installation of formwork with waterproofing under or columnar foundation; as an option - laying concrete blocks on a sand-cement mortar.
Laying metal rods in the concrete at the corners of the foundation for fastenings frame.
Waterproofing roll sealant inspection hole.
Brickwork or concreting walls and floor of the inspection pit, decorating the edge with a metal corner.
Filling the future foundation with sand screeds, laying roll sealant.
Construction of a reinforced layer of mesh or metal rods.
Fill screeds layer 20 cm.
Assembly frame garage (modular, welded or on site).
Painting of modules if the workpieces are not galvanized.
Strengthening the racks stiffening ribs.
Upper frame of the structure.
Gate frame construction.
Fastening elements for the interior arrangement of the garage (shelf holders, brackets).
Construction of the frame according to the selected model (single or double slope).
Exterior finishing of garage walls with sheet material.
Roof installation.
Interior decoration of the premises.
Installation gate(swing or lifting).
Finishing (painting, planking or pouring rubberized coating).
Installation of fittings.

Important: Another advantage frame garage- its construction does not need to be coordinated with anyone, much less approved.

How to build a garage frame from a profile pipe - drawing:

Installation

How to build frame garage? Installation of a garage frame from metal profiles is carried out in several ways, the choice of which depends on the final goals of the developer and practical skills in working with metal.

The frame for easy shelter from bad weather is assembled from a U-shaped galvanized profile without subsequent insulation and finishing of the room. It can subsequently be disassembled and transported to a new location.

For greater strength of stationary structures, take a square or rectangular section, and, if qualifications allow, weld frame using electric welding.

In addition to skills, in this case you will need to comply with all safety precautions when welding.

How to make a garage from a metal profile?

1st installation method:

It got the name "modular", since each of the garage walls is sequentially assembled on a flat surface, and then they are raised and secured along vertical posts.

For this type of installation, a partner is essential (the modules are light enough to be lifted by 2 people). Roof elements are also assembled into modules - farms, and install each of them separately. In this case, the metal profile is fastened together with metal screws, using rigidity designs metal corners.

Installing modules in a vertical position requires careful alignment of right angles using a level and plumb line. Before assembling the modules, if they are not made of galvanized metal, they are coated paintwork to prevent corrosion damage. For fixation frame on concrete base corners and dowels are used for the foundation.

2nd installation method:

He is called "piece assembly on site". All actions are carried out on a ready, established foundation, where individual elements metal profile 10x10 cm is assembled frame garage. The first to attach:

The reliability of the entire structure and its ability to withstand ground movements depend on the accuracy of the installation of the corner posts.

The lower harness, being the base frame, in this case it is attached to the foundation using embedded rods in the corners.

The result is a contour of a parallelepiped, which is gradually supplemented with racks and stiffening ribs from profiles 5x5 cm, if necessary - structural elements internal device garage.

Reference: In the event of a suspension of work, such a structure is already in initial stage can be covered with film to protect the construction site from the vicissitudes of the weather.

3rd installation method:

Welded frame for a garage from a profile pipe, channels and corners. The sequence of work is the same as in the previous case. Quality directly depends on the qualifications of the welder. The lower frame is welded to the pins embedded in the foundation, which ensures the immovability of the connection.

Manual arc welding- a completely accessible science that can be useful for many types of work in the house and on personal plot. There are many electronic tutorials on the Internet for beginners on mastering this useful skill.

Exterior wall finishing and roofing

Choosing corrugated sheet for cladding walls outside, it is worth assessing the size of the sheet and the height of the wave (C8 and C21) in order to lay it as efficiently as possible for draining rainwater. If corrugated sheeting has to be laid in several rows, then each upper row should overlap the lower one by 10 cm. To prevent water from flowing into the garage.

Wall sheets C8 quite reliable material for walls with insulation and interior decoration.

They are secured with self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets, sealing the joints and screw heads with sealant.

At the corners the wave is adjusted so that it is possible to carry out overlap sheets.

The sheet is slightly bent along the bottom edge so that the water flows away from the garage basement.

NS corrugated sheet- an excellent material for assembling swing or overhead gates on a frame. It can be used to cover a roof, since its rigidity is higher than that of corrugated sheets. WITH. At gable roof from corrugated sheeting, it is enough to complete the joint with a sheet metal ridge.

For sale corrugated sheet comes with a galvanized or polymer-treated surface. Such material is presented in a wide range color scheme. Moreover, depending on the height of the wave and the method of coating, a distinction is made between the front side for wall decoration and the back side for roofing.

Important: Profiled sheeting - light facing material, fireproof, impact resistant sun rays and temperature changes.

To cover profile garage use light but durable materials: metal tiles, slate, ondulin. The roof of the garage, like the walls, needs insulation and waterproofing. The correct slope is also important, ensuring water flow in the warm season and snow removal in winter.

Insulation and internal wall cladding

Work is carried out from inside the premises. Mats from basalt wool placed between the frame elements in a spacer. If foam plastic is used as insulation, the gaps between the sheets and racks are filled polyurethane foam. A vapor barrier membrane (glassine, polyethylene or polypropylene film) is pulled over the insulation, securing it with a stapler.

For your information: A new word in the vapor barrier of rooms - foil membranes that reflect heat into the room, three-layer super-diffuse - retain vapor permeability in extremely dusty rooms.

The interior decoration of garage walls solves not so much aesthetic problems as the creation of technologically determined conditions for storing a vehicle. Temperatures are contraindicated for a car at rest below 5◦C, condensation and proximity to flammable materials are harmful to it.

Therefore for interior decoration In garages, plasterboard and siding are recommended, which are easily attached with self-tapping screws to the metal elements of the frame, and the joints can be sealed with finishing parts. It is advisable to cover drywall silicate paints, and the siding (metal or plastic) has a factory decorative coating.

Finally:

Frame made of corrugated pipe for the garage - a quickly erected, reliable shelter for your car. If you want to build it with your own hands, don’t be shy! Find a partner and get started while it's still in season.

Useful video

Watch the video on how to build a frame metal profile garage:

You can build a garage from a metal profile with your own hands, spending about a month on all the work. To build it you will need metal racks and galvanized steel profile.

A motorhome made of metal profiles is a relatively light structure. In order for it to stand firmly on the ground, it is enough to make with your own hands a shallow-type strip foundation with a height of about 0.4 m and a width of about 0.3 m. You need to prepare a plan for the garage (drawings of such buildings are available on the website, and even make a sketch yourself not difficult). After this, you will need to dig and arrange the base for the motorhome, install the frame, mount the walls, and then insulate it.

The foundation for the building is erected as follows:

Mark out the plot of land where you plan to build a metal profile garage.
Cut off the soil on the site by approximately 50 cm and level this area. Then you fill it up, water it and tamp it down thoroughly.
Make a pit in the place intended for the inspection pit. You choose its depth yourself, and take the width 200 cm larger than the width that your inspection hole will have (just leave a meter of extra space on each side).
The pit must be leveled, a layer of sand placed in it and compacted.
It is advisable to immediately make a special hole around the future inspection hole with your own hands. drainage system. It is recommended that pipes for draining groundwater be routed into a storm drain, a drainage ditch, or into any body of water that exists on or near the site.
Mark the strip foundation along the perimeter of the metal profile building. For these purposes, you use basic devices - a cord and wooden stakes. With their help, in addition, you mark the walls of the pit (inspection).
The base is best made from concrete blocks (they are sold at any hardware store; there is no point in making them yourself). Such products are connected to each other using a standard cement-sand mortar.
The side surfaces of the inspection pit are made of brick or the same concrete blocks.
As soon as the foundation hardens, it should be waterproofed with outside inspection pit walls. Experts advise using rolled products to protect against water or bitumen mastic.
Fill the walls of the pit with sand (this process is usually called backfilling).

Strip foundation for garage

Your garage made of metal profiles has received its solid foundation. Now you need to arrange the floors with your own hands (directly for the motorhome and for the inspection pit). Level the ground beneath the future floor covering. Then pour a layer of sand on the ground. Its height is taken 0.1 m below the walls of the pit. Fix a damper tape around the perimeter of the floor, which during operation of the garage will guarantee its invariability geometric parameters at seasonal variations temperature.

Place a waterproofing layer on the layer of sand. roll material(usually high-strength polyethylene film or roofing felt is used). It must extend 15–20 cm onto the walls of the base. On top of the waterproofing, you should place (in increments of about 15 cm) a mesh reinforcement product and fill the structure with concrete, to which you can add polymer composition or liquid glass to increase the water resistance and ductility of the screed.

Using the rule, you level the solution and wait 20–25 days. During this period, the metal profile motorhome screed will completely dry out.

Your garage made of metal profiles should have a reliable “skeleton”. You can build it yourself from U-shaped metal products. Between themselves steel elements must be connected with universal self-tapping screws. On the walls, use a galvanized profile - profiled sheets marked N-75. This material has sufficient thickness (no more than 1 mm), waves 7.5 cm high, and can withstand significant (up to 12 kg per square meter) load.

Frame made of U-shaped metal products

It’s easy to build a “skeleton” with your own hands. a short time, guided by the following diagram:

Use metal scissors to cut profile products into pieces of the required geometric parameters.
On a flat surface, assemble the skeleton of the side wall of the motorhome, then fasten the resulting structure.
Place your bet vertical racks. They need to be mounted in three pieces on each profile sheet.
Similarly, assemble the other wall (side).
The front wall of the motorhome, which we make with our own hands, structurally consists of a pediment and a gate frame (its shape is rectangular). It is advisable to further strengthen the frame. To do this, you need to insert two profiles one into one.
The back wall will have one of two shapes. If you decide to build a garage with a pitched roof, the wall behind the building is made rectangular. But when a roof with two slopes is being erected, a pediment will need to be added to such a rectangle on top.
The gate frame is made of two parts. They must have identical parameters. Their high rigidity is ensured by special ribs, which are placed diagonally across the gate.
The “skeleton” of the garage is built on a ready-made foundation. It must be fixed to the foundation with nails, dowels and metal corners (you may have to additionally use self-tapping screws).

Our metal profile garage is almost ready. Need to cover it reliable roof. Make it from profiles. They must be assembled according to the configuration of the motorhome and reinforced with slopes. To fix profile products on the roof, we use the same self-tapping screws.

Motorhomes made of metal profiles can serve not only as a reliable structure for storing a car. They can become an excellent auto repair shop with an inspection pit. To do this, you need to properly insulate the garage and complete it interior decoration. Thermal insulation of buildings made from profiles is best done with one of the following materials: stone wool; ordinary mineral wool.

Thermal insulation of a motorhome made of metal profiles

These types of insulation are sold in the form of mats, the installation of which does not cause any difficulties. They are also characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties. Modern cotton wool mats, in addition, have another important property. They themselves extinguish when ignited (they do not support combustion).

The installation diagram for heat-insulating products is as follows:

Attach cross bars to metal garage posts. At this stage, the size of the mats used should be taken into account. The thickness of the latter, by the way, can be 10 or 5 cm.
Place the mats between the posts.
Place a special film with vapor and moisture protection characteristics on the heat-insulating layer.

The final finishing of the garage from the inside is usually carried out with profiled steel sheets. They are easily attached to the racks with self-tapping screws. Let us add that the described technology for constructing a motorhome from profiles is also suitable for constructing a temporary garage on suburban area. You simply do not need to dig a viewing hole and insulate the building if you do not plan to operate it in the winter.