Violet home care at home. Home care for violet flowers, replanting and propagation. Breeding violets at home

One of the most beloved houseplants among gardeners is violets (Latin: Víola or Saintpaulia). Their beauty attracts the attention of people even who are very far from floriculture; violets on the windowsill look great. However, violets require careful care at home, so growing these indoor flowers is considered a difficult task.

Externally, the flower is a rosette of leaves. It can be simple or terry. Distinctive feature- lack of a central stem. Blooming small flowers different color and shapes. The plant is distinguished by great species diversity.

The homeland of violets is tropical countries. Caring for violets in winter is especially scrupulous - a time characterized by a lack of sunlight and an excess of artificial heat. For proper maintenance, we have prepared rules for care and reproduction.

Requirements for the conditions of keeping violets:

  • temperature regime: in summer up to +25 C; in winter +18-20 C;
  • humidity level 50%;
  • illumination level – daylight at least 10 hours a day
  • During the flowering period, additional lighting with fluorescent lamps is required.

IN flower shops you can find both violet seedlings and big choice seeds Growing violets from seeds yourself is a fascinating process, but it requires some experience and knowledge, so it is more suitable for experienced gardeners. For beginners, we recommend choosing ready-made seedlings. Firstly, you can immediately see varietal qualities: appearance, color, shape and size of flowers. Secondly, in specialized stores and flower markets, seedlings are sold in pots or phyto-cassettes that protect the sensitive root system of violets from negative factors environment.


Growing seedlings

Grow planting material you can do it yourself from seeds. Advantage - the resulting specimen may differ from the parent material, and in better side. This is a great chance to withdraw new variety. The mistake of many inexperienced gardeners is to focus only on the front side of the bag when choosing seeds. In fact, the appearance of the flower rarely matches the picture. For example, horned violet, grown from seeds, which is most often practiced, is distinguished by a wide variety of colors, including black flowers with bright spots.

The packaging must contain the following information:

  • name in Russian and Latin;
  • variety (exception if we're talking about about a species plant);
  • best before date;
  • germination;
  • number of seeds in one bag (in pieces or grams);
  • description of appearance: size and color of flowers.

Among connoisseurs, heterotic hybrids are highly valued, i.e. hybrids with increased viability. Their names must contain the symbol “F1”. The cost of such seeds is noticeably higher, but the highest quality planting material is obtained.

Successfully growing violets at home begins with the right substrate for growing seedlings. Its composition:

  • drainage from ceramic shards;
  • river sand large faction;
  • a thin layer of sphagnum moss;
  • at the end - prepared soil: crushed peat (sifted through a sieve with a mesh of 0.5-1 mm) and perlite in a ratio of 1:1.

All fillers must be sterilized. Moss and soil are processed in a “steam bath”, shards and sand are processed in a hot oven.

Sowing is done in special phyto-cassettes with a lid on the surface of the moistened soil. Store in a warm place, protected from direct sunlight. Conditions of detention:

  • temperature regime not lower than +20 C;
  • sufficient humidity (the soil surface should not be allowed to dry out).

The predicted emergence of seedlings is on the 20-25th day, at a temperature not lower than +250 - seedlings can appear as early as 14 days after sowing.

Photo instructions for growing violets from leaves








Seedling care

The secrets of caring for violets at the growing stage lie in the correct maintenance of the seedlings. The main fear of Saintpaulia is dry soil and water getting on the leaves and root collar.

After germination, the cassette lid is replaced with a covering non-woven material (spunbond type) to eliminate the possibility of dripping and improve air exchange.

Bottom watering or drip irrigation, when water constantly or at certain time intervals flows directly to the root system of each plant, which completely eliminates the possibility of the ground part of the violet getting wet.

With the appearance of two full-fledged leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into individual pots.

Transplanting violets

Planting and caring for violets at home, which for most people is akin to a sacrament, delights its breeders with lush color only if they are periodically replanted. Over time, the soil cakes and its acidity changes, resulting in deterioration of air exchange and lack of nutrients. Replacing the pot when replanting is not necessary. If the flower is not crowded, then you can limit yourself to replacing the soil.

When to replant violets?

Highest survival rate in spring period. It is not recommended to replant violets in the summer heat. If it is possible to compensate plants for the lack of daylight, which is typical for mid-latitudes in autumn- winter period, then transplantation can be done practically all year round.

Souring is indicated by the formation of a white coating on the surface. Air exchange is disrupted in the soil or excess minerals accumulate.

Flowering begins only after the root system fills the entire pot of soil. Enlarging the pot requires a plant whose root system very tightly entangles the earthen ball. When choosing a container for a flower, we are guided by the rule: the flower must be larger diameter pot 3 times. Recommended to use plastic container. In ceramic and clay pots, the soil dries out faster. Violet leaves wither when in contact with these materials.

Transfer rules

Violet transplantation can be done in three ways:

  • replanting with a complete replacement of the soil (recommended for adult plants in case of exposed stems, withering or acidification of the soil);
  • replanting with partial replacement of soil (optimal for young plants of miniature varieties and in cases of changing the pot to a larger one);
  • transshipment (for urgent transplantation or young children).

Replanting with a complete replacement of the soil makes it possible to clean the root system of harmful elements.

  1. Remove the plant from the pot. Healthy living violet roots are white and fill the entire space of the pot. Brown dead roots are removed. Can be washed with water. If there is rot, the plant is stripped down to living tissue. The sections are treated with activated carbon and dried. If there is significant damage to the root system, the plant should be re-rooted in sphagnum moss, which has bactericidal properties, or in an aquatic environment.
  2. Remove everything yellow leaves and flower stalks.
  3. The sections are processed with coal chips.
  4. If, as a result of cleaning the roots, their number has noticeably decreased, it is necessary to replace the pot with a smaller one.
  5. Drainage is laid at the bottom, then a layer of soil on which the roots of the plant are laid out. The soil is poured from above to the level of the lower leaves. To ensure the soil settles well, knock on the sides of the pot.
  6. Do not water the transplanted plant for 1 day. To ensure the required level of humidity, it can be covered with a plastic bag.
  7. After a day, inspect the violet. If the leg is exposed, it is necessary to add soil.

Replanting with partial soil replacement is carried out similarly to the previous method with one difference. Only the soil that can be easily shaken off is removed from the roots of the plant. The advantage is minimal damage to the root system, because she remains in an earthen coma.

When transshipping, the violet is removed from the old pot along with the entire earthen lump and placed in a new container. If necessary, add fresh soil.

Soil for violets

Regardless of whether you are planting a new young plant or replanting an already mature one, the quality of the soil is important for the success of the entire undertaking. Violet care at home, which is very important, prefers an acidic environment with a small amount of nutrients. An ideal substrate should be very light and allow air and moisture to pass through it well. Its composition:

  • peat (3 parts, sometimes diluted with perlite or vermiculite to retain moisture);
  • dried sphagnum moss (no more than 10% of the total volume);
  • leaf soil (5 parts);
  • sand (1 part);
  • coal (no more than 10% of the total volume).

The soil for violets is poor. On the one hand, this is an advantage, because the plant does not tolerate overfeeding; on the other hand, feeding is required during the growth period. In winter, a humate solution is added (once a year). In spring and summer special mineral fertilizers for violets.

Watering methods

Important! When watering, do not flood the flower and allow water to get on the leaves (they are cleaned of dust with a damp cloth) and flowers.

Top watering. The most labor-intensive method. A small watering can with a long spout or a large syringe will help you. The amount of water is determined visually. If moisture begins to drip through the drainage holes, stop watering. The advantage of top watering is the leaching of excess salts from the substrate.

When watering from below, the pot is placed in a container of water (the height of the water is ¼ the height of the flower pot) and left for some time until the soil in it darkens, which indicates that it is sufficiently moistened. Experienced flower growers, who know exactly how much water their pets need, pour a certain amount into the pan and wait for it to be absorbed. You cannot put several in one pallet. flower pots. This is an easy way for diseases to spread. The disadvantage of this method is that salts are not washed out, as with overhead watering.

Wick watering. Let's remember the capillary effect from the 7th grade physics course. Place the pot with the violet on a container of water, so that its bottom does not touch the surface of the water. We use a strip of fabric or cord as a wick. We pass one end into the drainage hole, and immerse the other in water. The flower will take as much moisture as it needs. Wick watering is convenient in conditions of frequent changes in temperature and humidity levels. The amount of moisture consumed is regulated by the needs of the flower at the moment.

Despite its convenience, wick irrigation has a number of significant disadvantages. It is not recommended to use it for watering large plants ( maximum size pot up to 8 cm in diameter). It is risky to use in winter, because... The water temperature can drop significantly, and cold water is contraindicated for violets. Some varieties do not accept watering through the wick.

To water violets you must use soft, warm ( room temperature) water. Cold water leads to a lack of flowering, rotting of the root system, even death of the flower. You can soften and purify water by boiling, using household filters, or letting the water sit for a couple of days.

If the water is very hard after boiling, add 5 crystals of citric acid or 1 tsp per 1 liter. vinegar. It is recommended to water with acidified water no more than once a month.

Important! For irrigation, you cannot use magnetized water or water containing silver.

Propagation of violets

Any floriculture forum will reveal all the secrets of growing violets. Having studied the opinions of their participants, you come to the conclusion that the most common and simplest way to propagate violets is to root leaf cuttings in water or substrate.

The optimal time for cuttings is spring and summer. We choose the greenest and strongest leaf from an adult young plant medium-sized from the bottom row, if there are several of them, pre-water the flower.

Rooting in an aquatic environment

The stalk of the leaf selected for rooting is cut so that 3-4 cm remains to the leaf plate. The cut can be at a right angle or an angle of 450. We use only a clean and dry tool with a well-sharpened blade. The leaf is placed in water. The rooting process of violets lasts from 14 days to a month or more, depending on the variety. When the roots reach 1-2 cm, the cuttings are transplanted into the ground until the babies appear.

If a leaf has withered (for example, during transportation) or was picked from an unwatered plant, it is necessary to carry out resuscitation in order to restore turgor: put the entire leaf in a weak aqueous solution of potassium permanganate. Water temperature is approximately 250. Leave for 2-3 hours.

If, during the process of rooting in an aquatic environment, the process of decay has begun, the cut is renewed along the healthy part of the leaf and treated with coal powder. The sheet is placed in a disinfected container with new clean water.

Advantages. Allows you to control the process of root formation and not miss the right moment for further actions (provided you use a glass or transparent plastic vessel).

Rooting in the ground

The leaf cutting is placed directly into the soil, bypassing aquatic environment. The advantages of the method are that germination time is reduced (the plant does not have to adapt first to one condition and then to another) and babies appear faster. The Expert Forum recommends this method for propagating miniature varieties of violets. To root them, take leaves with cuttings of 1-1.5 cm.

Regardless of the propagation method, it is important to observe the conditions for keeping the cuttings:

  • keeping in a greenhouse until the babies appear;
  • stable temperature range 22-250 (without direct sunlight);
  • lighting 12 hours;
  • good air exchange in the substrate;
  • watering as the substrate dries with prepared water.

Video about caring for violets at home

Blooming violets on the windowsill are a delight for the eyes of lovers ornamental plants. Their incredible popularity has also been contributed to by their long or even continuous flowering. Every year new hybrids of indoor violets appear, replenishing the already wide varietal assortment.

Today's site theme is for progressives - violets (indoor flowers). Today we will look at photos and names, home care and ways to extend the flowering period in detail. By choosing the right variety for yourself and studying the agricultural technology of the plant, you can turn your windowsill into a fabulous place.

Indoor violets at home will give delightful beauty

Indoor violet (Saintpaulia) - brief description and varieties

The plant in question is a rosette of downy, fleshy leaves. A “bouquet” of delicate flowers forms in the center. Depending on the variety, they can have different colors, sizes and shapes.
There are many varieties of simple indoor violets and large double ones. The latter, of course, are more in demand among flower growers, but simple, uncomplicated flowers still decorate many houses and apartments. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the names and photographs of some popular hybrids of indoor violets.

Based on the shape of the flowers, Saintpaulias are divided into large groups, each of which has its own set of varieties. The table below shows the photos and names of all existing groups.

Names of indoor violet groups based on flower structure
In the photo, Tarabar violet Shining Stars - violet in the photo
The photo shows an indoor violet Pink Panther at home
Fire Moths
Violet EK Bullfight
In the photo there is a violet White Queen





In the photo there is a violet for home use. Winter is smiling
Pictured is Blue Flash

Rules for caring for indoor violets

If the initially created home conditions are suitable for the indoor violet, it will not manifest itself as a capricious plant. The simplest care will help it bloom magnificently and for a long time. IN unsuitable conditions the flower will gradually fade and may eventually disappear completely.

Suitable home conditions for Saintpaulia:

Illumination is good and continuous (10 hours a day), but without direct midday rays.
The soil is moisture-permeable, well-draining excess moisture.
Humidity is low (50%), the leaves are never wet.
Watering is best through a tray using warm water. In winter - twice a week, in summer - daily.
Drafts are unacceptable.
Temperature - 25 °C in winter and 20 °C in summer.

The ground for this indoor flower should be sour. The main component is leaf soil. Peat is added to it in a smaller volume. It precisely creates the acidic environment necessary for violet roots. The third component is coarse sand (volume - 1/8 of the soil-peat mixture). It is advisable to add sphagnum moss and charcoal.

As for fertilizing Saintpaulia, it is undoubtedly necessary. But in this case it is important to remember moderation. The indoor violet does not like oily soil. Typically, fertilizing is carried out two or three times a year:

In winter - with a solution of humate;
in spring and autumn - with specially designed mineral fertilizer.

When choosing a container for indoor violets, you do not need to focus on large flowerpots. It is considered a mistake to assume that the size of the rosette will be comparable to the dimensions of the pot. It is important to understand one important nuance- The violet will not bloom in full bloom until its roots fill the pot. You shouldn't expect violets to bloom all year round - it's quite normal if only leaves remain in winter. Although when ideal conditions there may not be a break.


Small flowerpots are suitable for growing indoor violets at home.

In view of this, it is better to choose a pot with a diameter of about 6 cm as the first container for Saintpaulia. After a few years, the bush can be transplanted into a larger container - with a diameter of about 10 cm. Approximately half of the pot should be occupied drainage layer. If holes for water drainage are not provided, you should make them yourself. When transplanting indoor violets, you need to completely replace the substrate.

Common problems with growing violets

The center of the bush thickens, but the leaves do not change direction and color - this situation occurs due to excessive lighting (more than 14 hours a day). Shading the plant for several hours a day will help correct the situation.
Thickening, accompanied by drooping leaves and the appearance violet shade on their reverse side, also speaks of an excess of light. But in this case, most likely, direct rays fall on the bush, which the violet does not like. The solution to the problem is shading.
White plaque on small leaves indicates deep planting of the violet, as a result of which the young leaves are in the water. Over time, the flower usually rots. The problem will be solved more high rise and reducing watering.
Small and hard, brittle leaves are a sign of excess fertilizer. In this situation, only one thing will help: transplanting indoor violets into new soil.
Many stepsons are formed, and the main bush slows down in development - this is most often a consequence of overfeeding. Need a transfer to new ground and removal of stepchildren.

Violet or terry Saintpaulia is a very capricious indoor plant. In order for your flower to live for a long enough time, you need to provide everything the necessary conditions, as well as attentive and thorough care. In our article you can learn a lot useful information about how to properly care for violets.

Varieties of indoor violets

There are several main varieties of indoor violets. These include:

  • "Rosemary": star-shaped flowers, white-pink, dark green leaves slightly corrugated;
  • 'Jan Caprice': variegated wavy leaves and lush white flowers;
  • “Fire moths”: oval-shaped leaves, as well as bright pink or scarlet flowers;
  • "Compass Rose": the flowers have fringed edges, a soft pink hue, and dark green wavy leaves;
  • “Magic of Love”: large flowers in the shape of a star, purple, as well as oval leaves;
  • "Your Majesty": wavy pink petals with curly edges, wavy large leaves;
  • "Macho": a large-flowered plant with bright purple flowers and carved leaves.
Rosemary

Jan Caprice

Fire Moths

Rose of Wind

The magic of love

Your Majesty

Macho

Basic rules for caring for violets

If you decide to have a houseplant such as terry Saintpaulia at home, then you must adhere to the basic rules and regulations for its maintenance. Next we will look at each of them in detail.

Transfer

As soon as you bring the violet home, it needs to be transplanted into a new spacious pot. First, prepare the following:

  • a flower pot that matches the size of your Saintpaulia;
  • nutrient soil;
  • ripper;
  • expanded clay;
  • water.

A couple of hours before transplanting, thoroughly moisten the soil so that the plant’s roots are saturated with moisture. Carefully remove the violet from the pot, carefully inspect for any damage, and clean the roots from excess soil. Place a small layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container (it is necessary as a kind of drainage), then add a little prepared nutrient soil. Plant a flower in new pot holding it with your hands. Then add soil to the required level, compact it and loosen it a little. Make sure the violet is firmly planted in the soil. Then water the new soil and lightly loosen it again (so that oxygen gets to the roots of the plant).

Top dressing

The following fertilizers can be used to fertilize violets:

  • Minerals: various phosphates, which promote the active growth of the plant (it is best to apply this fertilizer at the time of transplantation);
  • Mineral complexes: available in the form of small sachets, they are an excellent preventive measure to combat various diseases leaves and roots;
  • Organic fertilizers: usually these are various kinds of humus or humus, which are laid out in the soil during transplantation.

The best and most widely used fertilizers are the following:

  • “Fertika Kristalon for violets” - microfertilizer;
  • "Bona forte mp" - fertilizer for violets and begonias;
  • “Violet” is a substrate component;
  • "Uniflor micro" - fertilizer for foliar feeding;
  • "Bona forte" - organomineral fertilizer;
  • "Agricola Aqua" - organomineral fertilizer for indoor and balcony plants;
  • "Slox-eco" - fertilizer for feeding.

Watering

You need to water the violet carefully, using a thin stream of water, which should not accumulate in the center of the flower rosette, but should be evenly distributed over the soil, reaching the roots themselves. For watering, it is best to use a small watering can with a long sharp spout or a large syringe. As soon as water begins to drip from the drainage holes, watering should be stopped. After about 15-20 minutes, the water should be removed from the pan.

Temperature

As mentioned above, violets are quite capricious plants, so average temperature indoor air should vary between 17 and 23 °C. Carefully monitor the temperature stability to avoid the death of the flower.

Lighting

Terry Saintpaulia does not tolerate direct sunlight, but at the same time it urgently needs bright color. To do this, you should purchase a special fluorescent lamp, which you need to hang above the location of the flower. Such artificial light will help the plant bloom even in the winter season.

Priming

The soil intended for violets must be of high quality and contain various fertilizers (you can add them yourself). You can use purchased soil, but again we hasten to remind you that it contains very little useful substances, so you will have to enter them there yourself. The ideal soil for violets should consist of:

  • sand;
  • peat;
  • charcoal;
  • humus;
  • black soil

Hygiene procedures

As the violet leaves and flowers become dusty and dirty, they must be washed and sprayed with fresh water. You can do this as follows: take the Saintpaulia to the bathroom, take a damp cloth and thoroughly wipe each leaf. Then spray with water from a spray bottle, let it dry a little and put the pot in place.

Location

In winter, the bright sun rarely appears, so during this period the Saintpaulia can be placed on the window, and in the evening you can turn on a special lamp. But, in spring and summer, the violet must be removed from the windowsill and placed in a more secluded place, for example, on a chest of drawers, coffee table or a nightstand.

Propagation of violets

There are 3 main types of violet propagation:

  • using leaves in water and soil;
  • peduncles and stepsons;
  • seeds and using the selection method.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Reproduction by leaves in water and soil

This method of propagating violets involves fixing the leaves in the soil or in water. The leaf is cut off and then lowered into the ground or water. Then you need to wait until the plant takes root. As soon as they become long enough, you can transplant the violet into a spacious pot.

Reproduction by peduncles and pinching

Plant the stepson or peduncle (small shoots of an adult plant) in pre-prepared mineralized soil. This technique provides a guarantee that the violet offspring will have the same color and leaf shape as their parents.

Reproduction by seeds and using the selection method

This method involves pollinating the “mother” flower with the “dad” violet. Adult plants are placed next to each other, then you need to wait for the mother capsule to appear and dry completely. Collect the seeds and start germinating them.

violets of different varieties - bright and delicate flowers, can be grown at home

Possible diseases of violets

Springtails

Aphid

Infectious diseases

Let's look at the main infectious diseases that occur in violets.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is considered one of the most common infectious diseases in violets, which appears in the form of crumbly pimples located over the entire surface of the leaves. Infection occurs due to fungal spores formed in the soil. Protect the violet from temperature changes and high humidity.

Gray rot

A disease like gray mold It manifests itself in violets in the form of wilting and dullness of the color of the leaves, as well as the flying of the petals. Root rot is actively developing. The surface of the leaves is covered with a gray coating. This disease most often occurs due to improper care and maintenance. In order to get rid of gray rot, it is necessary to constantly ventilate the room, temporarily stop watering the flower outlets, and clean the excess water from the pallet.

Fusarium

Fusarium is a dangerous and insidious disease for violets. First, it affects the root system, and then slowly spreads to the leaves and petals of the plant. A clear sign of this disease is excessive wilting of leaves and stems. Unfortunately, this disease cannot be cured, it can only be applied preventive measures to healthy violets. Set up the correct watering regime, ventilate the room, protect Saintpaulia from sudden temperature changes.

Late blight

Late blight manifests itself in the form of violet leaves turning a bright brown shade. Infection occurs due to fungal spores that settle in the soil due to high humidity. The disease cannot be cured, but you can cut off the infected leaves and take preventive measures: water the plant on time, remove excess moisture from the pan, and also ventilate the room.

Our article discussed the basic rules for caring for indoor violets, as well as possible diseases of this plant. If you approach the maintenance of Saintpaulia in a timely manner and with full responsibility, it will delight you with its bright, beautiful flowers for quite a long time.

For a beginning florist, violets are an excellent choice; planting and caring for them at home should not cause any difficulties. Violets (Saintpaulias) were previously grown as garden plants. IN room conditions They began to be grown only in the last century. They look beautiful in a pot, do not require labor-intensive care, and if you create for them suitable conditions, they will bloom magnificently and for a long time.

What should the external environment be like for a violet?

You can often hear from beginners that we grow flowers according to all the rules, but they don’t want to bloom. This happens if something is missed in creating a suitable violet external environment. Firstly, these flowers love good lighting. Daylight hours for them should last at least 10 hours. But these flowers do not like direct sunlight, and therefore they are shaded. The light needs to be diffused. In winter, when the duration of daylight is less than the violet needs, additional lighting is used - fluorescent lamps.

Violet is sensitive to air humidity. It is necessary to place a cup of water next to the flower pots.

Indoor violet is a heat-loving plant. From spring to early autumn, it is necessary that the room temperature be +20...+22°C. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than +18…+20°C. Drafts are contraindicated for this plant. At the same time, violets need fresh air, so you need to ventilate the room regularly, but the flower pots will have to be moved to another room at this time.

Watering: choosing a method

Caring for violets is also proper watering. If it is too abundant, the plant may become sick, and the root may begin to rot. Ground in flower pot It should not dry out and become a hardened lump, so on average you need to water 2-3 times a week. This general rule, and in each specific case, the frequency of watering depends on the humidity of the room, the time of year and the material from which the pot is made.

There are 3 main watering options:

  • ordinary,
  • pallet
  • wick.

The last method is convenient because when correct settings The violet can be watered once a week or less.

The wick method involves the use of a cord that absorbs moisture from a container of water and ensures its flow into the pot with the substrate. This allows you to maintain the proper level of humidity and at the same time prevents root rotting. The wick method allows you to smooth out changes in conditions of detention, for example, late spring when sudden heat begins.

The wick method has many advantages. It provides good conditions for the growth and development of violets - plants bloom earlier and bloom more abundantly. This method allows you to provide plants not only with water, but also with nutrients, while the dosage of fertilizer is calculated and the appropriate aqueous solution is made. The method ensures that the violet receives all nutrients and moisture evenly.

This type of watering also has its disadvantages. If the diameter of the cord and the material from which it is made are selected incorrectly, the wick will absorb more water than necessary, this will lead to waterlogging of the substrate and rotting of the roots. During the cold season, if you simply leave the violet on the windowsill, very cold water will flow through the wick, which can also negatively affect the condition of the plant’s roots, so you will have to move the pots with violets to where they will be warmer.

Breeding violets at home with wick watering can be associated with some difficulties. When using this method, the rosette becomes larger. If a grower grows only a few rosettes, this has no special significance. But if he grows many varieties at once, then enlarging the rosette reduces his capabilities - there is not enough space for all the varieties. In addition, if violets are grown not on window sills, but on racks, then difficulties may arise with the additional load that a container of water will create. You need to find a place for it and select it so that there are gaps between the container and the pots.

Due to the difficulties that arise with the wick method in cold weather, many experienced flower growers in the winter they switch to another method of watering, most often tray watering, since it is much simpler.

Subbottom watering assumes that water will not fall on the above-ground part of the violet. Direct contact is generally excluded here. Warm water is poured into a tray on which pots of violets are placed. When it is clear that the soil is saturated with moisture (but no later than 15 minutes from the start of the procedure), the water can be drained from the pan.

Caring for violets at home also involves choosing a watering method after analyzing all the advantages and disadvantages of each method. Some gardeners choose tray watering as the easiest method.

How to properly care for violets? This flower, like other plants, needs to be washed regularly to remove dust, literally leaf by leaf. This is done approximately once a month. But after this procedure, the leaves need to be dried - paper napkins are used for this.

Violet is very sensitive to water temperature and its quality, so for both irrigation and showering it is better to use water that has been previously settled for 2 days, then boiled and cooled to a temperature of +18... 22 °C.

Plant nutrition

In order for Saintpaulia to bloom beautifully, you need to feed it with mineral fertilizers. They do this only 2 times a year. In spring, violets are fed during the period of active growth. The second time this is done after it has faded, that is, in the fall. In winter, the plant, when it is at rest, does not need to be fed. Complex mineral fertilizers are used for this.

During transplantation, plants use a small amount of humus or humus for feeding. It should also be noted that only mature plants need to be fed.

How to replant a violet?

This flower needs to be replanted no more than once every 3 years. The plant periodically needs fresh soil. You can buy a special substrate for violets in the store, you can take garden soil, which has undergone special treatment against pests. There should be a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot. The pot itself is selected so that its diameter is 2-3 times smaller than the diameter of the plant. In a container that is too large, the violet simply will not bloom.

To replant, the soil should be moist, but not stick to your hands. For replanting, you can only use new pots so that the plant does not become infected. Contrary to popular belief, it is better to use plastic pots than glossy ceramic ones.

For replanting, loose soil mixed with sand or peat is required. Expanded clay is used for the drainage layer. When transplanting, the violet is planted so that its lower leaves barely touch the surface of the ground. For some time after this, the plant needs to be covered with plastic film, creating greenhouse conditions for it. You can water only the next day after transplanting. But you need to ventilate regularly so that condensation does not collect under the film.

Propagation of violets by cuttings

The most popular option is propagation of violets by cuttings. It is best to choose a leaf from the middle of the rosette, that is, neither too young nor too old. It can be pinched off or carefully cut with a small sharp knife so as not to damage the plant and not leave a tall stump. You need to cut the cutting as close to the ground as possible.

It is desirable that the cutting be at least 47 cm long. It must be cut obliquely, at an angle of 45°. If the cutting surface is 2-4 cm long, this will be enough for the leaf to take root well and produce more rosettes.

Not all leaves take root, so it is advisable to take 2-3 leaves from the variety you like at once, if possible. It is not at all necessary to buy a pot to root such a leaf. You can get by with disposable ones plastic cups or a yogurt container. It is best to take shallow glasses. If there is a shallow container large diameter, then several leaves can be planted in one container at once. The distance between them should be at least 5 cm so that it is convenient to dig them out later.

Not all violets propagate equally well from cuttings. There are so-called chimeras - these are varietal flowers of unusual colors. Their leaves take root well, but they do not retain their color or beautiful shape leaves.

How to grow a violet from a leaf, in the ground or in water, is of interest to many novice gardeners. In fact, both methods are equivalent. In both cases, this environment must be disinfected, for example, using activated carbon. If the cutting is placed in water, you need to ensure that it does not rot. The water should be warm, but not hot. The roots of the leaf will appear in about 1-2 weeks, and then it can be planted in the ground. Some gardeners wait longer - until new shoots appear, and this happens after about 1-2 months of being in water. Shoots appear from the cutting site. If the grower decides to wait for them to appear, then he still needs to make sure that they grow enough so that they are not covered with soil when planting. Do not dig the cuttings too deep, otherwise the sprouts will not appear soon. The maximum depth is 1.5 cm.

Some people believe that violets germinated in water will bloom faster. In fact, this is a controversial issue. Experienced flower growers who know how to care for violets at all stages of the development of this plant will probably say that when grown in water, there is always a risk that the cuttings will begin to rot. The quality of water does not always meet the requirements of this plant.

Additionally

Rooting violets in the ground has its advantages. But there is also a nuance here: you need to choose a super-light substrate, looser than what is usually used for “adult” violets. The soil mixture will have to be prepared independently using a special soil for Saintpaulias, to which clean river sand (pre-calcined) is added. You can also use sphagnum moss for this; it is also sold in flower shops. Moss, even if it is fresh, needs to be lightly baked in the oven to disinfect it. To prevent it from burning, it needs to be laid out on food foil.

The substrate should be regularly watered with warm water so that it does not dry out. Rooting in soil occurs more slowly than in water, but the risk of root rot is eliminated. The seedling should be kept away from drafts. Direct Sun rays are contraindicated for him. It is recommended to make a greenhouse for it, covering it with plastic film. Approximately 2 months after rooting, when the grown shoots are already visible, the plant needs to be transplanted into a permanent container, having previously treated both it and the plant itself by special means against pests and fungi.

Violets can safely be called one of the most popular indoor plants. In many countries they symbolize the arrival of spring. Their small delicate inflorescences are full of grace and remind of unity with nature. These plants are unpretentious, do not take up much space on the windowsill, are not a source of allergies, are constantly in bloom, and therefore have a large army of fans.

Violet (Usambara violet, Saintpaulia) is a compact perennial with a growing creeping rhizome. The leaves are dark green, pubescent, heart-shaped. The flower rosette almost completely hides the leaves during the flowering period. The flowers are simple and double, collected together in several pieces.

The color of the petals is very diverse, mostly pastel shades. The fruit is a capsule with many seeds. The root is thin and almost does not branch. Violets are divided into groups that differ in shape, color and type of flowers.

Types and popular varieties of violets with photos

There is no scientific classification of violets yet, so the division into species is conditional. The developed hybrids now number more than 32,000 varieties.

The following types of violets are more popular than others:


It has dark green leaves with a jagged wavy edge, the stem length reaches no more than 8 cm, and the diameter of the rosette can reach up to 60 cm. The flowers are violet-blue in color, located on short, fleshy stems.


Its dark green leaves are round in shape with a serrated edge. The leaf size is 4-5 cm. The underside of the leaf blade is reddish in color. It blooms magnificently, with small blue-violet flowers with a dark center.


The plant has ampelous shoots with bright green, pubescent leaves. There are varieties with purple foliage. The leaves reach 5 cm in width, grow up to 6 cm in length, the flowers are small, blue with a purple tint and a dark center. Their size does not exceed 2.5 cm.


Variety "LE Rosemary"

Popular variety with star-shaped double flowers. Has a standard serrated leaf rosette. It stands out very much for its decorative inflorescences. There are three colors on the petals: white background scattered pink strokes and blue specks. Rosemary violet looks luxurious and delicate at the same time.


Variety "Lians Pirates Treasure"

The variety is characterized by bright pink flowers with a crimson edging along the edge of the petals. There are crimson specks at the border of the main color and the border. The leaves collected in a rosette have a bubbly surface texture.


Variety "Fire moths"

The upper surface of the leaves is dark green, the lower surface is light green. The flowers are simple or semi-double with petals of a rich burgundy shade. There is a white or pink border along the edge of the petals. The color of the inflorescences changes over time. The socket dimensions are standard.


Variety "YAN Caprice"

The plant has variegated wavy leaves that combine green and white colors. Above the leaf rosette rises a snow-white foam of double flowers with green corollas. A very elegant Saintpaulia. Requires more light due to variegated leaves.

Planting and care at home

Despite the fact that the violet is considered an unpretentious plant, like any flower it has its own requirements for watering and lighting, the composition of the soil and fertilizers, and the size of the pot. Like other flowers, the violet needs your care.


In nature, Saintpaulias grow in places with high humidity air. But the usual method of increasing this indicator - spraying the leaves of the plant - is not applicable for violets. Their leaves are pubescent, which helps retain water droplets on leaf plate. As a result, a fungal disease may develop, especially if the room is cool.

It is best to place containers of water on the windowsill or place pots of violets on a tray with wet expanded clay. You just need to make sure that the water does not reach the bottom of the pot. You can use a household humidifier by placing it near a window. The humidity in the apartment decreases especially in winter, when the central heating is on.

The temperature in the room is important for violets because they are heat-loving. In winter, the thermometer readings should not fall below 16 degrees. Optimal temperature growing temperature will be 20-24 degrees. With these parameters, the violet blooms willingly, and flowering continues for a long time. Young plants need a temperature of 23-24 degrees for this. If the temperature is too high or too low, flowering stops.

In winter, it is better to remove the violet from the cold windowsill and place it on a shelf or rack next to the window. Or the pots are placed on wooden or foam stands so that the root system does not overcool. Saintpaulia will need lighting away from the window for flowering.


Violets should receive 10 to 12 hours of light, but should avoid direct sunlight. At the same time, the night period of being in the dark is also important for them. Some varieties have a higher lighting requirement than others. If Saintpaulia has faded leaves, it refuses to bloom, which means there is a lack of light or it remains in the dark for less than 8 hours a day.

In the summer months, violets are suitable for lighting on northern and eastern window sills. In winter, it is better to place them on southern and western windows.

The rosette may become bent during growth as the leaves are drawn towards the light. To avoid this, periodically rotate the pot around its axis. Violets grow beautifully under artificial lighting. Fluorescent lamps are best suited for this. The bushes grow compact in size and bloom well.


The main rule when watering violets is that water should not get on the leaves of the plant. Saintpaulias often die for this very reason. It is better to use settled water at room temperature for irrigation. Too cold or too hot water may damage the roots.

Experienced gardeners do not water violets from above, but use other watering methods:

Through the pallet

You can take a large bowl of water, place several pots of violets there at once and leave for a while until the soil is saturated with moisture. The pots can be taken out when the ground becomes dark from water. After that they are put in their place.

Please note that all plants must be healthy, otherwise it is easy to infect them from one another. With this method of irrigation, the water quality must be ideal, since harmful salts are not washed out, but rise to the top and settle in the soil.

Drip

For this method, use a watering can with a narrow spout or a syringe to make it easy to get to the ground, bypassing the leaf rosette. With this option, it is important not to overdo it with the amount of water. If you water the violet excessively, immediately drain the excess water from the tray under the pot.

Wick

To do this, most often they use a piece of fabric or cord, passed through the drainage hole at one end, and the other end is lowered into a container with water for irrigation.

The advantage of this method is that the plant itself takes as much moisture as it needs - the capillary effect works. The level of moisture in the pot remains stable and is regulated by the flower itself depending on the air temperature. This method can only be used with a small pot volume and in the warm season. In winter, the water may become too cold on the windowsill. In addition, not all varieties of violets are suitable for such watering.


The choice of pot directly depends on the size of the plant. Conventionally, Saintpaulias can be divided into large, medium and miniature specimens. Root system violets are superficial, they do not require a large volume of soil, because in nature they grow on rocky soils. You don’t even have to increase the volume of the pot during the next transplant. If the violet becomes crowded in the pot, you need to remove it, remove old dead roots and excess soil and plant it back in the same container.

  • The plant will build up excess green mass to the detriment of flowering. Sometimes the violet may not bloom at all.
  • The risk of fungal diseases and pests will increase, since such a violet is difficult to carefully inspect.
  • The soil in the pot will turn sour due to the fact that the roots are not able to entwine the entire earthen ball.

Typically, the maximum size of a violet pot is no more than 9 cm in diameter. Plastic containers are best suited.

You can use ready-made soil for Saintpaulia as a substrate, but it is not always of the required quality. Some bring it to the required state by adding baking powder. Most often, perlite, vermiculite, and coconut fiber are used for this purpose. Additionally, these components retain moisture, so you don’t need to put a lot of them in order not to cause rotting of the roots.

When preparing the substrate, you can take up to 40% vermicompost; it has proven itself well when growing violets. The rest of the soil in this case should consist of loosening agents to prevent it from hardening over time.


It is better to feed young violets with nitrogen-dominated fertilizer to develop a good leaf rosette. Plants that are preparing to flower must be fed with phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizer is added to the water for irrigation in the pan, or the violets are fertilized from above. You should be careful with nitrogen fertilizer; if it is overdosed, the plant will not bloom.

On a note! Nutrient deficiencies can be easily identified by appearance violets. It will have weak stems and leaves, slow growth, and poor quality flowering.

Usually, nutrients disappear from fresh soil within 2 months, then artificial fertilizing will have to be applied. Violets are unpretentious regarding fertilizers. They can be fed not necessarily with complexes for flowering plants, but also for vegetables. The composition should include not only nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but also iron, calcium, magnesium, boron, molybdenum. When purchasing fertilizer, be sure to read the packaging about its components and choose a complex with the widest range of components.

Rules for growing and caring for violets: video


Since violets are grown in small pots and there is little soil available, they should be replanted annually. The need for replanting is indicated by a white salt coating on the surface of the soil and the complete filling of the pot with roots. Transplantation can be done at any time of the year, except winter months. If your Saintpaulia is blooming, you should not disturb it, because flowering indicates that the plant is doing well in this pot. Replanting should begin after flowering.

Step-by-step instruction:

  • Moisten the soil in the pot to make it easier for the plants to remove it.
  • Prepare a washed, well-cleaned pot.
  • Fill the bottom of the container with expanded clay.
  • A plant is placed vertically on a mound of earth.
  • Cover the violet with soil up to the lower leaves and lightly compact the soil with your hands.
  • You can water the transplanted plant every other day. If after watering the stem is bare, add more soil.

You can replant the plant using the transshipment method. In this case, the soil is carefully poured along the edge of the pot, which should be slightly larger than the previous one.

Transplanting violets: video


At home, flower growers propagate violets using leaves. Rooting can be done both in water and in soil. The leaf must be cut from the second or third row of the leaf rosette. Too young and old leaves are not suitable for propagation. The stem of the leaf should be 3-5 cm long. The freshly cut leaf should be dried a little in the air.

If you ordered planting material online and it arrived slightly wilted, soak it for several hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then the sheet must be completely dried. Rooting in water is carried out using a dark glass cup. Boiled water is poured there and an activated carbon tablet is placed. The leaf petiole should be immersed in water no more than 1 cm. As it evaporates, water is added. The speed of rooting depends on the variety of violet and the air temperature in the room. If the petiole begins to rot, the damage can be cut off and the leaf placed in fresh water.

Rooting in the ground is carried out by placing the leaf at an angle of 45 degrees and supporting it with a toothpick. After this, the seedling is covered with film or glass jar, create a greenhouse effect. Place it in a warm, bright place, and periodically moisten the soil. A young violet is planted in a permanent place when its leaves reach 3 cm in size.

How to grow a violet from a leaf. Rooting and propagation of Saintpaulia: video

Bloom

Anyone who has seen the lush bloom of a violet will be forever captivated by its beauty. But for this you will have to give the flower at least a minimum of care.


A prerequisite for violet flowering is sufficient lighting. This can be either bright diffused light or radiation from fluorescent lamps. Daylight hours should last 12 hours. Keep them in a warm place at a temperature of 20-24 degrees. Water and fertilize in a timely manner. In winter, be sure to increase the humidity.


During flowering, it is necessary to regularly remove faded flower stalks. After flowering, you can take advantage of the pause and replant the plant. If you don't plan to, start using a nitrogen-dominant fertilizer to encourage new leaf growth.


There may be several reasons for the lack of flowering: lack of lighting, cold conditions, depleted soil, overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Move the pot with the plant to a warm, bright place, water it promptly, and use fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. It is also possible that the violet is planted in a pot that is too large.


Diseases in plants most often occur due to improper maintenance. A weakened violet cannot resist pests and pathogens of various diseases. Any disease is easier to prevent than to cure, so it is important to maintain the plant’s immunity and take preventive measures.

Saintpaulias are prone to fungal diseases. They are often struck powdery mildew, fusarium, gray rot, late blight, rust. The reason for the accelerated development of fungal spores can be drops of moisture on the leaves and low air temperature in the room. All these diseases are manifested by the appearance of dark and brown spots on the leaves, spores or fluff. At the first signs of the disease, you need to treat the plant with fungicides, acting according to the instructions.


A similar phenomenon can occur during overheating if the air temperature is above 25 degrees. appear on the leaves yellow spots, then they begin to dry out and fade. Direct sunlight has the same effect. If you do not want the violet to lose all its leaves, move it to a cooler room with diffused lighting.

Yellowing of the leaves can also be observed due to rotting of the roots. If root rot is suspected, the plant should be removed and the roots examined. The affected areas are removed, the wounds are powdered with coal, after which the plant is planted in fresh soil. If you water excessively, the surface of the soil in the pot may become moldy - this is another factor in the yellowing of the leaves. A lack of nitrogen can also affect the color of leaves.


Violet can be attacked by mites, thrips, aphids, nematodes, scale insects and false scale insects, whiteflies and some other insects. You will see their presence by the appearance of spots and dots on the leaves; you can notice them near flying insects; cobwebs may appear on the leaves. To avoid this, maintain the correct microclimate in the room, reduce watering when the temperature drops, and regularly ventilate the room.

If harmful insects have already appeared, use an insecticide. Actellik, Intavir, Fitoverm and other drugs are suitable for treatment. They are diluted in water and the violet is processed following the instructions.


It is believed that violets charge rooms with positive energy. This flower is a symbol of comfort and a prosperous life; it brings joy and harmony to the inhabitants of the house, and awakens activity and love of life in pessimists. The beneficial effect also depends on the color of the plant.

White Saintpaulias muffle bright emotions, clear the space of negative influence bad thoughts and quarrels. They are ideal for children's rooms, helping relieve fatigue and emotional stress.

Varieties with purple inflorescences promote spiritual growth and development. They strengthen character and take away everything that is unchangeable from your mind. It becomes easier for people living in the house to find mutual understanding. Purple flowers help develop intuition and the gift of foresight. It is better not to place them in the room where children sleep or near work places.

Blue violets will quickly help you forget about boredom and despondency. They are great for children's groups: various studios, school classes. These flowers make a person more harmonious and develop his creative abilities.

Pink and red violets protect health, prevent diseases of the throat and thyroid gland, and reduce excess appetite. Emotionally, these flowers help to cope with a bad mood and feel joy. They are suitable for those people who have many problems in life.


  1. Violets love the company of their own kind, so it is better to place them on the windowsill in a cluster.
  2. It makes no sense to propagate those varieties that are called “chimeras” by leaves, since in this case the color of the petals is lost.
  3. If you notice rotting of the trunk, cut the top of the Saintpaulia to living tissue, then there is a chance to save the plant.
  4. In hot weather, you should not water the violet too much; this will certainly lead to rotting of the roots. Water more often, but in small portions.

If you manage to “make friends” with violets, they will not disappoint you and, most likely, will remain in your house for a long time. long years. Among the large variety of varieties, you can always find a plant to your liking. Later, you will probably want to expand your collection.