How far can a person cover by pushing off the ground once? If this is one step, then on average less meters. If you run up and push off harder, you can jump four or five meters. Therefore, imagine our surprise when a modest, no longer young man appeared in the editorial office and declared that he could move 50 m with one push of his leg, and even with a load of 30 kg. The visitor had some kind of strange cart in his hands. We, understandably, doubted it.
And when they doubted it, they demanded proof.
“Well, please,” the owner of the strange cart told us. - Let's go outside. Here, on the asphalt, we were convinced that we were not being deceived.
Upon closer inspection, the “cart” turned out to be a converted children's scooter. Our guest, engineer Sergei Stanislavovich Lundovsky, managed to turn it into something unusual vehicle for adults.
How did you manage to “grow up” the scooter? What is the essence of his alteration? First of all, the maximum permissible lowering of the platform on which the “driver” stands. The ground clearance of the converted scooter when loaded is only 30 mm. But this, as practice has shown, is quite enough for driving not only on smooth asphalt, but also on country paths. When the bottom hits uneven roads, the scooter simply slides forward. And if a larger obstacle is encountered, the driver can help his car by pulling the steering wheel up and thus lifting the front wheel.
Lowering the platform lowered the center of gravity of the machine, which had a beneficial effect on its stability and made it easy to reach the ground with a “push” leg, without bending the supporting leg at all. And thanks to this, the driver gets tired much less than when using a scooter with a standard (high) platform.
The car is made on the basis of the children's sports scooter "Orlik" (costs 14 rubles). As shown in the picture, the fork legs leading to the rear wheel and the front part of the roller blade have been cut off. A new platform is made from a steel angle 20X20X5 mm to the size of the boot; in the drawing its length is 320 mm, which is the most advantageous. The front part of the factory sports scooter is connected to the platform with a clamp welded to the pipe and four M8 bolts. A plate about 20 mm thick is placed under the clamp legs, with the help of which the platform inclination that is most convenient for the driver can be found.
The length of the steering tube should be increased so that the driver can comfortably control the car without bending.
The rear wheel fork is made from the same angle as the platform itself.
A stamped luggage frame from a bicycle is used as a trunk, which is best placed above the front wheel. It is attached to the steering column head and to the front axle. You cannot place the trunk at the back, as the load makes it difficult for the pushing leg to move.
You should start learning to ride a roller skate on a flat, non-sloping asphalt area. The main attention is paid to practicing a long and strong, but not sharp kick with the leg, as well as mastering the movement of inertia. In this case, the steering wheel must be completely motionless, otherwise (due to increased resistance) the speed quickly drops.
During training, it is quickly determined which leg is the most efficient as a supporting leg and which as a pushing leg.
S. LUNDOWSKY, engineer
Electric scooter– this is a convenient, modern and economically feasible equipment for everyday use, achieved by charging the battery with a regular 220 volt outlet. The only one actual problem is the high cost of this gadget, undoubtedly all high-quality items have high cost, which manifests itself in the long-term operation of charging batteries and in safe use transport unit.
An alternative solution to the cost of expensive equipment is to make a “do-it-yourself electric scooter”, but it is “extremely important” to have good experience and knowledge in development technical devices such categories of complexity. It is necessary to have sufficient knowledge and understanding of the operating principle of an electric scooter, and most importantly, have a clear understanding and confidence in your capabilities.
Electric scooters can be assembled based on the designs of various units. In most cases, two-wheeled equipment is used:
- mobile vehicles based on hoverboards, which is far from a cheap option, but quite easy to modify in terms of connecting electric batteries);
- equipment operating on the basis of a cooled radiator engine, these can be purchased from car dismantlers. The difficulty lies in the mechanical design, but the result is a powerful unit.
For convenience, you can develop an electric scooter with a seat, which will be very convenient for long-term use. For these purposes, you will need the frame itself, but it is necessary to build a rack with a connection. After assembling the frame structure, the speed transmission is assembled, the wheel is secured, the battery is installed and the engine is mounted. Optimal and budget option will build an electric scooter based on a disassembled electric screwdriver; control will be provided by a moped handle, which is attached to the trigger and cable from the screwdriver. To produce the torque of the wheel itself, a two-gear rigid chain transmission with a friction attachment is used.
To make the frame, a channel made of aluminum or steel is taken, the seat can be taken from a bicycle, the wheel will fit from any stroller or scooter. Variations with the battery may be different: depending on the cost, lithium or lead. The battery power should be 12 volts each. Alternatively, you can remove the battery from an electric helicopter or an old drill.
In fact, in addition to the above spare parts, bolts of sizes M8 and M10 and a toggle switch with an electricity supply of 10 amperes will also be useful.
The algorithm for assembling a homemade electric scooter will be as follows:
- Measuring the supporting frame with the selection of aluminum profiles.
- Attaching the support beam to the scooter frame using bolts and nuts of sizes M8 and M10.
- Holes are made on the back side of the scooter to install the engine.
- The wheel coupling is mounted inside the hub.
- A clamp is attached and bolted along the axis of the wheel, and a plastic box is installed under the frame into which the wire is pulled.
- Based on the stretched wire, a electrical circuit, which allows you to switch the engine and battery.
The main notable feature of such a homemade scooter is the portable battery, which is located in the backpack of the scooter operator. The connection is made through a pulled cable.
The practice of homemade scooters shows that to successfully complete a job, you need to put in a lot of effort and you may not be able to save as much money as expected at the beginning of the work.
“In fact, life is simple, but we persistently complicate it.”
(Confucius)
Many people probably still remember how in the 70s our fathers made us scooters with wheels made of ball bearings. How this thundering miracle aroused extraordinary pride in us, and white envy among the neighboring boys. But time passes, everything changes... The fashion for scooters has returned again, only our children are already riding them. And about four years ago, having assessed my capabilities, I decided to make a scooter from a children’s bicycle that had become small.
Let me warn you right away that you will need: welding inverter with electrodes (preferably 2), grinder and meter of profiled pipe rectangular section. And since the scooter has been made for a long time, I will only explain some of the nuances.
I got it like this:
Quite responsive for acceleration and quite fast. And now, in order. First, we saw off the back and front parts of the bike. And in front we saw off the frame tube parallel to the steering tube.
We measure the profiled pipe and make V-shaped cuts with a grinder at the bends. Bend and cook. We also thoroughly weld the attachment points to the rear and front units. We extend the steering column additional pipe, which we also weld to the original bicycle one.
A bolt with a wedge assembly passes inside this pipe. Naturally, the original bolt turned out to be short and I had to cut it in half and weld a piece of wire (6mm) into the middle. Cooked it in a vice to get it smooth. Special attention pay attention to the distance from the site to the ground surface. It should be minimal, taking into account the unevenness of the road. I had to redo it; I raised the platform too high.
The board is screwed on top and the scooter is generally ready. The only thing missing is the brakes. They can be used from an old bicycle (regular rims). In general, you can leave the pedals, and lengthen the seat tube and you will get a hybrid, a kind of bicycle scooter.
If desired, you can install an electric motor with a gearbox on the site, and a battery on the trunk. But that's a completely different story.
Homemade scooter on skis
I probably won’t discover America by saying that children know how to baffle their parents... My daughter has a scooter with small wheels, which she no longer likes because of the same small wheels, photo from the Internet.
And a small bicycle, again with small wheels, which is not satisfactory for the reason that my knees touch the handlebars, photo of a real bicycle.
So, the task was set to make a scooter out of a bicycle with large wheels. Having scratched the top of my head, I went to the garage... More on that later... Since a scooter with small wheels is no longer available, and at the “technical advice” my daughter and I decided to make a scooter on skis. What you need: free time (there’s plenty of it during the holidays!), scooter, pieces sheet metal and mini skis.
We disassemble the skis and drill through holes with a diameter of 4 mm.
Then we select the required sheet metal, 2mm thick, mark.
Before welding the cut parts, I decided to do this.
Trying it on for skis...Normal!
This is the main mechanic and initiator of all this disgrace.
We paint, dry, and put this “sandwich” together
It took two evenings, 3 hours each, to build this scooter—with an assistant. And in one I think faster. There are not many photos without a description (as I said above, more on this later) of our parallel project “Scooter on Big Wheels” with my daughter. The construction of the scooter occurs from the rear.
Post by user MishGun086 from the DIY community on DRIVE2
Make your own scooter from scratch
I go to a pretty fun engineering college (Harvey Mudd) where most people use some form of wheeled transportation, from longboards and unicycles to scooters and free lines.
Step 1: Design
Before I do any actual modeling, I sketch first for most of my projects, including this one. I use them to figure out the basic sizes I need. Once I had an idea of what I was going to do, I walked around my campus with a laptop and a tape measure and filmed all the styles of scooters that I liked. I ended up choosing the Razor A5-Lux for my scooter. I also decided early on that I wanted to make it out of aluminum, with a laser cut acrylic deck and maybe some LEDs for night cruising.
After 20 minutes of taking measurements on someone's A5-Lux, I had all the measurements I needed for the next round of sketches. I then went to Google SketchUp and made a full 3D model. Even though the design details with small parts were not 100% accurate in the SketchUp model, I used the model to figure out what other aluminum stock I needed and the specific cutting length for some parts.
Later in the build (about 5 months later) I learned SolidWorks in an engineering class. By this time I had most of the parts done in the build, so making an accurate model was much easier this time. I used this model to figure out the exact length and location of the "folding bar support" but I'll get into that later.
I used mostly 8-32 cap screws and 8-32 button caps, with a few 5-40 cap screws for the little things.
After much online research, I discovered that large wheelchair casters are cheap, durable, and fairly affordable.
Initially I decided that I wanted the deck to be covered in clear acrylic paint, so I also ordered a piece of 1/4 clear green from E-Street Plastics. I use laser cutter to cut the deck.
Step 2: Deck Support
I started with supporting the deck and worked through it with subsequent pieces. The deck stand is the part that supports the base of the scooter.
I used two lengths of 1" x 1/2" x 20 5/8" 6061 aluminum as "rails" and joined them with two 2" pieces of the same material to create a support for the deck. I used band saw to cut them roughly to length and then cut the ends to length on a router bit with a ~1" end mill (I did this for both the guide and connecting sections). Each connection has two black oxide 1” 8-32 socket head cap screws, with a counter hole to keep the heads flush.
For now I just drilled one 17/64" hole (just over 1/4") in the front of the rails to attach the steering column posts. I'll deal with the rear wheel mount later.
Step 3: Strut and Steering Column Sleeves
I then made the uprights, parts of which extend from the deck support axis to the steering column. I made this piece from a slightly different stock, I used 1 1/4" x 1/2" instead of 1".
Anyway, I cut the two pieces to about 16 inches and faced one side of each. The other side had to be routed at an odd angle, so I left one side rough for now.
I also cut two 1" sections of the connector and looked at both sides for length.
Now comes the tricky part: processing this strange angle. This would be easy if the shop manager would allow me to change the mill vise to Rotary table, but he didn't, so I had to get creative. I ended up using regular T-slot fasteners to attach the parts to the mill bed and then put together a very sketchy system to make sure the parts were aligned at 32.3 degrees to the z-axis of the mill. I had an angle gauge, but due to some physical limitations I had to use it in tandem with two squares to make sure everything lined up. And I had to do it twice, once for each piece.
Luckily both parts came out well!
I then attached the two pieces along with the connector pieces. For these connections I used 1" stainless 8-32 button head screws and drilled the heads using a .33" end mill. To finish the piece, I drilled a matching 17/64" hole at the end to connect it to the deck support.
The next part was even more difficult. I had to mill matching 1/8″ deep cutouts into the steering column bushing (the thing that the steering column rotates through). Again, I had to press the piece directly onto the mill frame, which was heavier than before because it was a pipe. It also made it difficult to line up the corner correctly because I didn't have a clear edge to look down on since it was rounded. After much thought, I made the cuts and the joint turned out to be normal. You can see how the pieces fit together in the pictures above.
Step 4: Steering Column
This was definitely the coolest part of the scooter. The steering column needs to turn smoothly even under high pressure, and aluminum-on-aluminum friction isn't good, so I had to figure out how to isolate all the aluminum in the rotating joint.
I used lubricated brass bearings that sit around the steering column and slide inside the steering column bushing to keep the column separated from the bushing, and a brass washer between the top of the bushing and the shaft bushing ensures that the top of the joint is insulated. The bottom joint needs to support a lot of weight, so I splurged and bought a support bearing to lubricate the steering gear.
I made the steering column itself from two telescopic tubes. Lower, larger diameter is about 1 1/4" outside diameter and 1" inside diameter. I installed the threaded plate on inside inner pipe and drilled a corresponding hole in the outer pipe. These holes are positioned at the correct height and a threaded handle holds them together. In the future I may mill a slot into the outer tube so you can easily adjust the height, but for now I'm leaving it at the set height.
I used a 1" end mill to make a rounded cut at the top of the inner tube so another 1" tube could fit through top part to make handle rods. I made a plug from 3/4" solid rod and inserted it into the top of the inner tube so that the handlebar would cut into the plug.
Step 5: Front Wheel Bracket
I made the front wheel bracket from 2" x 1/4" aluminum, with two connecting pieces from 2" x 1/2". I spaced the connectors 1" apart and connected them to the sides with the same 8-32 screws. After I drilled and tapped all the holes, I used a CNC router to cut a 1.25" hole in the top of the connector and a 1.25" recess in the bottom. This way the steering column can slide through the top and recess into the bottom. This allows for easy weld alignment and provides additional rigidity. Unfortunately my college doesn't have good welding facilities and we can't weld aluminum at all. So I had to take a few pieces home during spring break so I can cook them. I'll talk more about welding in step 9.
I drilled a .316 hole to fit the 5/16" axle and then I recessed the axle to fit the snap rings that hold the axle in place.
Step 6: Rear Wheel Bracket
This could be the simplest piece of work. I used a 1/4" x 1 1/4" rod connected by a small piece of 1/2" x 1 1/4" and attached them with four 8-32 pan head screws. I left the other ends uneven because I wasn't sure where exactly to install the bracket at this stage of the build.
Step 7: Folding Mechanism
For the folding mechanism, I wanted a strip attached between the posts and the deck support, creating a triangle around the main hinge and preventing it from folding. I also wanted to be able to pull the bottom pin, fold the scooter, and then attach the same bar back to the rear wheel so it was folded. Doing one of them would be easy, but doing both is difficult because I had to satisfy the angle and length of both triangles. This problem was tricky enough that I knew I'd be screwed if I tried to just solve it, so I decided to rebuild the entire scooter in Solid Works so I could get the dimensions right for the part.
Since I had most of the scooter already built, it only took a few hours to build in Solid Works because I already had all the dimensions and parts determined.
Once I assembled the scooter model, it took about an hour to adjust the drop bar length and hole placement before the scooter locked in the unfolded position at a right angle and locked in the folded position so that the steering column was parallel to the deck. I took the measurements from the model and used them to make the real part.
Step 8: Welding
When designing, I tried to limit welding as much as possible, but there were still a few connections that simply couldn't be made with screws. This is the connection between the steering struts and bushing, the steering column and front wheel bracket, and the ends at the drop bar.
I also don't have a TIG welder at home, but I read online that you can actually weld aluminum with a MIG setup if you use special aluminum filler wire instead of regular steel reinforcement and use 100% argon as the shielding gas. We also had to replace the sleeve, gun and tip because I guess you can't use any parts that touched the steel welding wire. Something happens on a chemical level that ruins your aluminum weld if your material or filler wire is contaminated with the steel. Because of this, you should also brush the material with a ton of stainless steel brush to clean it before welding (for some reason with stainless steel Everything is fine).
Most of the joints I needed to weld were pretty thick so I didn't have to worry about burning through or making anything bad (I actually had to add heat with a butane torch just to get it hot enough to welding) but the steering column tube is very thin and I needed to weld it to the 1/2" plate, so I decided to just use a set screw instead of welding. If this connection doesn't work out later, I'll go through the welding problem.
Step 9: Progress Photos
Here are just some photos of the progress.
Step 10: Acrylic Deck
I made the deck out of 1/4" clear green acrylic.
I used the Solid Works model to set up the dimensions of the deck, and I ended up exporting the model to a .dxf file so I could cut it directly with a laser cutter.
The not the most fun part of this was drilling and tapping 20 holes for all 8-32 pan head screws that hold the deck to the rails.
I usually use a chuck tap milling machine and tap each hole immediately after drilling it, so that the mill zeros directly above the hole. This provides the best tap possible, but it takes forever because you have to take the drill chuck out and change collets and everything, and then change the Z axis height, which is very tedious if you have to do it 20 times in quick succession, so, in this case, I decided against it and just tapped by hand. My wrist was very sore after the last tap, although I'm glad I only used 8-32 screws instead of something larger, otherwise my hand might have fallen off.
I cleaned out all the coolant and reattached the deck! This looks amazing!
Step 11: Finishing Touches and Future Plans
Surface Finish:
I used sandpaper with 240 and 320 grit on aluminum in some areas where scratches were noticeable. I then used Scotch-Bright overlay and finished the rest of the aluminum with this, providing a nice smooth matte finish.
Final assembly:
I went around each connection and cleaned any remaining cutting fluid from the screw threads and threaded holes. I then put Thread Lock on all the screws before reassembling.
Results.
As always, there is some work to be done, although I am very happy with the current state of the scooter. Here are some things I'd like to work on so far, and I'll add updates as I complete these parts.
Add a battery pack and super-bright white LEDs under the acrylic deck.
Implement a rear PIN-lock mechanism so that I can lock the scooter in the folded position.
Make some kind of braking mechanism.
Make a slot connecting the two holes on the outer steering column so that the handles can be adjusted.
Buy best bearings for wheels to make travel easier.
Remove more material from the inside of the steering column bushing to reduce steering friction.
There are enough on the market today a large number of factory electric scooters and you can choose to suit every taste and budget.
But any product, as you know, is designed for the average buyer.
One is foldable and lightweight, but it travels slowly and does not start from a standstill.
The second one starts and accelerates perfectly, but is too heavy.
What to do if you want a scooter specifically tailored to your needs?
There are two options - either take the factory one and modify it, or assemble the device yourself from scratch.
Both options have the right to life and which way to go is everyone’s personal choice.
I will try to outline how a set of elements for self-assembly is completed.
The main element of the assembled scooter is the “base”.
Scooter databases are conventionally divided into subtypes:
Micro - with wheels up to 8 inches,
Mini wheels 8-10 inches,
Midi - 12-16 inches,
Maxi - from 20 inches and more.
Scooters with wide, non-bicycle tires stand a little apart. Rhino, Evo, Scruiser and their clones are also considered scooters, although in terms of engine power and appearance they are clearly closer to motor scooters and scooters.
So the base is where you should start dancing.
The final driving performance of the electric scooter depends on the choice of base.
What should you pay attention to first?
Size of wheels, cast or inflatable, presence of suspension, space for convenient location battery and the width of the dropouts for installing the motor-wheel.
If your city has mirror asphalt that is washed with shampoo every evening, then 5.5 inches is quite suitable for you.
If there are tiles and cracks in the asphalt - 8 inches is the minimum and pneumatics are very desirable.
If your asphalt recent years 10 has not seen repairs - don’t even look below 12 inches.
Do you want to drive at a speed of 40-plus and not be afraid to fly head over heels on an unexpected hole? From 16 inches and above.
The suspension partially reduces impacts from bumps on small wheels, but the rule “a wheel can move over an obstacle no more than half its diameter” will not go away.
Battery location Options - in the deck, in the steering column, on the steering wheel in a bag or case, on the trunk, in a backpack.
Some scooters have a cavity in the deck that allows it to be used for packing battery assemblies.
Pros: low center of gravity, appearance. Disadvantages – additional protection of the battery from impacts on road surface protrusions may be necessary.
You can place a battery in the steering column if it consists of several pipes and there is free space between them. Pros - the battery does not significantly affect the weight distribution of the scooter; when making the facing, the scooter is not afraid of falls. Disadvantages: labor-intensive work.
Also, some scooters have mounts for a bottle on the steering column, where you can screw a case or battery in a “bottle”. Pros: ease of installation, ease of removal. Disadvantages – it interferes with driving; if you fall, the fasteners can break off.
You can place the battery on the steering wheel in the case. Pros: ease of installation, ease of removal. Cons: worse weight distribution, more noticeable impacts on the front wheel. If you fall, there is a chance that the case will break.
The batteries for small and folding scooters are usually located on the handlebars in the bag. The bag for photographic equipment is sufficient for a small battery and does not attract attention. Pros - ease of installation, Cons - risk of damage to the battery if dropped.
The battery on the rear rack was a popular solution for early electric bicycles. It is of little relevance for scooters, due to the lack of a trunk on most of them. Pros: ease of installation, ease of removal. Cons: change in weight distribution, noticeable impacts on the rear wheel.
It is also possible to ride with a battery in a backpack and a cable with a connector to the scooter itself. Pros - the ability to insulate the battery for use in winter period. Lightening the scooter, which significantly increases maneuverability and the ability to actively ride with jumps. Cons – diseases of the spine from constant load(depending on the weight of the battery), changing the weight distribution to the motor-wheel side.
Dropout width.
This is the distance between the seats in the front or rear fork of the scooter.
For micro and mini models, the standard motor wheels are 45 or 65 mm. For anything larger - 100 mm.
Bicycle MKs for the front wheel also have a standard of 100mm.
There are MK 110s with brake discs, but less frequently.
135mm is already the bicycle size of the rear wheel, for gears on one side.
The electrical part of the electric scooter is quite simple, 4 points - battery, controller, motor and controls.
Previously, batteries were heavy lead, with a low resource of 300-400 cycles and low charge-discharge currents.
Modern electric scooters run on different types of lithium batteries – lithium-ion, lithium-polymer, lithium-iron phosphate.
Let's look at the difference between them.
Lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries have a favorable cost, high charge and discharge currents, and a service life of 500-800 cycles.
Lithium ion (LiIon) – 500-1000 cycles, light weight, temperature dependent.
In general, there are three subtypes of ions, depending on the type of chemistry. Some have higher capacity, but higher internal resistance, others have high current, but do not shine with capacity.
They require protection from mechanical damage when used on scooters. There have been cases of ions catching fire from impacts when dropped.
Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4) – About twice as heavy as ions, more expensive. They give out and receive high currents, the service life is 2000 cycles.
Not fire hazardous, quite resistant to mechanical deformation. Can be discharged at sub-zero temperatures.
Drive of a scooter wheel from an external motor by a belt or chain is still common, but it is clearly losing ground to motor wheels.
Motor-wheel the best choice motor for a self-assembled electric scooter.
They come in two types - geared and direct drive. Let's look at the differences, pros and cons of each type.
Gear micros.
Lighter than direct drive MK of the same power, better efficiency at low speeds. Excellent roll-up due to the presence of a freewheel, which is very useful when using a foot-powered scooter. There are wear parts - gears, someday they will require replacement. Noise - the gearbox howls during operation. Impossibility of regenerative braking. Slightly better boost potential due to higher rotation speeds.
Direct drive (DD).
Heavier than gearboxes, rolling is worse due to the cog effect. There are no wearing parts other than bearings in such MKs. Low noise, and when using a sinusoidal controller they can be completely silent. They have the ability to use recuperation braking. They justify themselves when using a scooter in areas with large differences in elevation and as a means of saving brake pads. When installing MK on mini and micro scooters, it happens that recuperation is the only adequate brake on board.
Controller.
The controller is the brains of our scooter; the traction uphill, the start method and the dynamics of acceleration will depend on its choice. The choice of controller must be made according to the motor parameters. For example, a wheel motor has the following parameters: 48V 350W, what does this mean?
The rated voltage of the wheel motor is 48 volts. No one forbids feeding it less, but at the same time its power will be lower. No one forbids supplying more to it, but it is important not to overheat the microscope with the pumped power.
This is the rated power of this mk. As practice shows, the rated power can be increased by 1.5-2 times for DD and 2-2.5 times for gearboxes. To select a controller, let's convert watts to amperes - 350/48 = 7.3 amperes. Of course, it will run at 7.3 amps, but it’s pretty sad, so we boost it to 12-15 amps for direct drive and 15-18 for gearboxes. For these currents we will need to look for a controller for such a microcontroller.
Controls.
1 – power switch.
The power supply is usually connected directly to the controller and is not interrupted when idle. The power switch turns off the low-current part of the controller that supplies voltage to the control circuit. Since the currents there are small, you can use almost any suitable latching button.
2 - Gazulka.
It is a motorcycle-type throttle grip, or a half throttle or throttle trigger. I strongly recommend choosing the trigger, since it is easy to release in an emergency, and a person instinctively grasps the handle more tightly to hold on. Has at least three wires - plus 5 volts, ground and output signal.
3 – Brake levers.
Electric scooters are equipped with brake handles with built-in limit switches to turn off the motor when the brake is pressed. If the controller has an activated regeneration braking mode, it will also turn on when any brake lever is pressed. They come with built-in buttons, with reed switches and with hall sensors. Connection - ground, output signal. For hall sensors, + 5 volts are additionally connected. Sometimes, in order not to change the standard handles, separate modules with reed switches or hall sensors are installed. They are attached to a cable or to the body of the handles.
So we dealt with common device electricians.
Let's look at assembly examples.
IN this project Yedoo Ox base used,
battery cells lithium iron phosphate
and micro direct drive, 12 inches in diameter.
The battery is divided into two packs and placed in the deck and steering column.
The controller is mounted under the steering column, where it does not interfere and is always blown by the air flow.
The drive is rear-wheel drive, which is a convenient solution for climbing hills. The battery is protected from below by a 4mm alucobond plate.
Final characteristics of the scooter:
Weight 18.5 kg.
Battery 16S3P, 52 volts 9 ampere-hour.
A powerful battery... And an impressive price. Yes, there are economical options, but is it possible to spend even less? And if so, how to make an electric scooter with your own hands?
Where to begin?
Decide on what you will base your iron horse on. There are three good, repeatedly tested options:
- From a screwdriver. Drills and screwdrivers are convenient because the battery can be easily removed from them for recharging. In addition, most models have several speeds, which is also a lot;
- From a hoverboard. Very good in terms of battery connection and control, but quite expensive;
- From the radiator cooling engine. Perhaps the most difficult option from the point of view of implementation, but the motor is quite powerful and almost free (you can find a suitable motor at any auto repair shop).
If you don't have great experience When working with such tasks, we recommend making an electric scooter with your own hands using a screwdriver.
Broadcast
Have you chosen an engine? Now it is important to decide how you will transfer torque from it to the wheels. The following transfer options are available:
- Chain;
- Friction nozzle;
- Two gears;
- Hard transmission.
Again: if you don’t have much experience, use a chain. The option is controversial, because the chain can fly off, but this will be the easiest to implement.
Wheels
Which wheel will be the drive: rear or front? If you choose the rear one, it will be easier to install; if you choose the front one, the scooter will be better controlled. We advise you to still bother with connecting the front wheel, it’s worth it. The wheels themselves can be taken as ordinary ones, with plastic discs. Wheels from garden carts work well.
Frame
The frame is made from ordinary steel pipes. Profiled steel 2.5 millimeters thick will be enough for a self-made electric scooter to withstand a load of up to 100 kilograms.
IMPORTANT: If you are making an electric scooter not entirely from scratch, but on the basis of a regular - non-motorized - scooter, you will not have any issues with the frame and wheels. Just choose from durable and stable models: very elegant ones may not be ready for serious loads.
Battery
Do not use heavy lead batteries! You will most likely not be able to carefully remove them under the deck, and the battery will simply break the entire balance of your scooter. If you are doing it on the basis of a screwdriver, there are no questions - use the original battery - if not, look at those for electric helicopters, the same drills and similar equipment.
You will also need
- Wires;
- Power button or toggle switch;
- Plastic box for battery;
- Fasteners (usually bolts and nuts).
Use welding or similar technical techniques complex methods fasteners are not necessary at all.
How to make an electric scooter with your own hands?
The best choice would be to watch a video on YouTube before starting work. Look specifically for a scooter assembly based on the engine you choose and with the gear you choose - there are videos for almost all existing options.
And, in any case, you will need some experience working with your hands. Ideal if you have already worked with electrical and metal. If you don’t have any experience, we strongly recommend finding an assembly partner or at least a consultant - a person who can look at your idea and project and give their comments on it.
If you do everything carefully, a DIY electric scooter will cost only 5-7 thousand rubles, which means you can save a lot. Good luck with the build!