We save on tools: do-it-yourself f-shaped clamps. Do-it-yourself clamp - how to make a quick-release device from metal and wood Homemade hand clamps

In the process of woodworking, in most cases it is impossible to do without a carpentry clamp. Whether it is necessary to glue wooden blanks, secure a sheet, board, or slab during cutting - you will definitely need a clamp. On sale similar products yes, but according to reviews experienced craftsmen, they are characterized by two significant shortcomings– limitations in size and low strength, since soft metals (alloys) are mainly used for their production in order to reduce costs.

Those who have to work with wood quite often prefer homemade carpentry clamps. How to make such a device with your own hands, what to pay attention to and take into account - this is discussed in the article.

There are many modifications of carpentry clamps - corner, G-shaped, edge, universal. Some are used for permanent job with different workpieces (in area, thickness), others are manufactured for a specific technological operation (for one-time use).

The author considers it advisable to dwell only on those that are most often used by “home craftsmen”. If the principle of their functioning becomes clear, then you will be able to make any type of carpentry clamp with your own hands, to suit your own needs. If, of course, you turn on your imagination and think carefully.

The author deliberately does not indicate linear dimensions clamps. One of their advantages self-made lies in the possibility of arbitrarily choosing the shape and dimensions of carpentry clamps. There is no standard for such devices. And it’s hardly advisable to “chew” basic things for a person who is used to (and knows how to) do everything with his own hands. The main thing is to give an idea, to “prompt an idea”, and everything else is at your own discretion.

Option #1

The simplest modification of the clamp. It is done quite quickly, but the use of such a carpentry clamp is somewhat limited. Although in most cases, when working with small-sized samples, it is quite sufficient.

The basis of the device is the frame of a hacksaw for metal. The fastening elements of the blade are replaced by long threaded rods, at one end of which there is an iron “penny” (as an option – a nut), at the other – either a removable handle or a head for an open-end wrench.

Since the frame can be adjusted in length, such a clamp will allow you to fix workpieces of various thicknesses. It is mainly used when gluing parts (), since the body of the device itself cannot be fixed to any surface. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that if the frame is folding (the old modification of the “hacksaw”), then you will have to apply a “tire” at the bend (for example, wrap it with adhesive tape). This clamp is not entirely convenient to use, but in the absence of something more suitable, it is a good solution to the problem.

Option No. 2

Also a fairly simple clamp model. It is done with your own hands relatively quickly. The design of the device is clear from the figure. All you need is a metal angle and a couple of long screws or threaded rods.

If you make several of these clamps, you can use them to perform various carpentry jobs. For example, gluing long workpieces. To do this, it is enough to set the clamps at a certain interval, and lay metal strips or slats made of hardwood between the stops and the sample being processed. Another option is to mount the assembly on a workbench. The same applies to cutting blanks.

Before sawing, they are fixed on the tabletop, and their immobility will be guaranteed. This design can be modified by welding metal plates to the corners. This significantly increases the clamping area.

Essentially, for household use This modification of the carpentry clamp is one of the best. Experienced craftsmen always have at hand ready set from several devices with different dimensions. Depending on the specifics of the work, you may need a clamping device made from a corner of either 25 or 45.

The versatility of this modification lies in the fact that it is made of metal and, therefore, is characterized by sufficient strength. Unlike wooden clamps, here you can adjust the clamping force over a wide range, and work not only with wood, but also with other materials - glass, plastics, iron. This is what you often have to do in everyday life.

This design can be slightly modified. For example, when processing logs on a mini-sawmill (cutting into boards, sawing), they must also be fixed. In this case, an improved modification of such a carpentry clamp is suitable. It is enough to take strip iron as its basis, and weld the same corners at the ends.

Varieties and modifications

Here are a few more types of carpentry clamps. All these clamps are easy to assemble with your own hands.


The question is: how advisable is it to use it as source material wood? There are arguments both for and against. But if a tree is chosen for the base of a carpentry clamp, then it must meet certain criteria.

  • Species – only hard (pear, oak, walnut and similar). Otherwise, there is no need to talk about any pressing force. And the durability of the clamps made from “soft” wood raises some doubts.
  • Humidity is minimal. Only after the material has been thoroughly dried can it be used for the manufacture of clamping fixture parts.

Good luck, reader, in making your own clamp. Don't be afraid to fantasize, and everything will work out for you!

Simple and functional f-shaped clamps, made by yourself, will become indispensable assistants in your workshop and will allow you to save considerable sums on expensive clamps, of which, as you know, there are never too many. A cam-type quick-release clamp is optimal for situations where large clamping forces are not required: gluing narrow or small parts, edges, fixing workpieces, etc.

The cam clamp works on the principle of a classic f-shaped clamp. It consists of a guide rail and two jaws: movable and fixed. By fixing the workpiece in the jaws and turning the cam 90°, the tool will provide a strong and reliable clamp. It is not difficult to make a homemade clamp with your own hands at home, with a minimum of tools and consumables.

The proposed clamp drawing and detailing are a basic guide. The design of the product is such that you don’t have to worry about materials and dimensions, changing them to suit your needs. The tire can be made of either metal or wood. You can also vary the length and width of the jaws to increase the gripping depth of the clamp. Rivets or small bolts may be used instead of metal pins. The movable and fixed jaws are mirror images of each other, so it is convenient to produce these parts in series, several pieces at a time.

By making your own set of clamps and simple wooden stops, shown in the photo, you will get an effective corner clamp that will become an indispensable assistant when gluing together perfect frames.

It will not hurt a novice craftsman to know that in the first stages it is unlikely that he will be able to get by with just a hammer or saw. Subsequently, you will have to resort to using a vice or quick-release clamp to fix the workpiece or glue individual fragments. Making it yourself is quite simple. There is no single clamp that is sufficiently universal to satisfy all needs when performing various types work.

Use of wooden clamps

They are various styles, models and sizes. Therefore, you can stock up on various models that will always come in handy. A master can purchase several models of Assistent clamps, and besides, they are not that expensive. If a person does not want to pay for such a purchase, he can make a wooden or pipe clamp with his own hands. Wood models are very popular, you can make them yourself. This model is easy to use and easy to adjust.

Model F is a wooden clamp that has been slightly improved. It uses a maple plank with a width of 5 cm and a thickness of 0.6 cm. The design also contains a metal rod on which a thread is applied. To make a handle, you need to take a wooden blank. Hardwood without defects is suitable for this.

The moving parts must be well dried in order to slide smoothly on the bar. There should be two nuts on the rod. They are located at the end and then tighten against each other. Thanks to this, they do not separate during use. You can use a separate lock nut or simple model with permanent lock. And two more nuts are needed to secure the clamping pads along with the washer from the outside.

It is permissible to use a locknut and other fastening methods. Double products jam each other. This is the most reliable and easiest way. It's also the cheapest. It is important to leave some space for the screw so it can rotate freely.

Made of wood and steel

Using a hacksaw, cut the threaded rod to 30 cm. First you need to equip additional incision per block measuring 9 by 7 cm, if we're talking about about loose ends. Once all the corners are cut, you need to drill a hole and insert the tightening bolts.

You need to make sure the holes are large enough to fit the bolt head. The threaded rod is fixed in the upper area of ​​the fixed end. The hole needs to be large enough to fit the nut into the rod. Install the fixed end when intending to drill holes. When assembling, you need to make sure that the ends are secured at right angles. Thanks to this, the threaded rod will become parallel to the rod.

Before assembly, it is necessary to make a hole where the nut and threaded rod pass through. Do this in the same block position as for the fixed end. You need to make sure the hole is wide and deep enough to accommodate the nuts. The lower area is small, and therefore it is difficult to insert enough screws here. This is necessary to prevent curling.

Shelf dimensions are determined according to the desired length and available equipment. After this, the system components are sawn to the required size, the pads for the sponge are cut out and drilled required holes, pens are glued with a five-minute epoxy resin. When the screw shaft is jagged by a file or sandpaper, fix the handles with epoxy glue.

Easy homemade options

A lightweight, homemade clamp is made on the basis of a metal rod. These clamps, although not as powerful as steel clamps, still provide the ability to create strong clamping pressure for any adhesive. Accordingly, their service life is quite impressive. The rod can be made to any length. The only thing you need to remember is that there should not be a threaded rod running along the entire length of the main rod. The clamp head does not need it at this end, making assembly much easier. Clamping jaws are made of plywood.

The lock nut is an element that secures the clamping jaw to the rod. However, it should not be under pressure. The nut can be cut with a regular hacksaw. It is fixed to the heel with epoxy resin. The recess should be quite wide and suitable for the washer and deep so that the nut and washer can turn without problems.

Here you need to use a 35 mm nut, since you need to drill a hole 38 mm in diameter with a bottom and 15 mm in depth. After drilling the recess, a through hole is made. This is required for the clamping screw. Fix the movable head in a fixed position and mark the places where the hole should be located.

Handle, screw and main assembly

Square blanks of 25 mm are made and 100 mm are cut for each handle. Mark the central part and drill out a fragment of 10.5 mm 60 mm using a drill. As an analogue, you can drill a fairly wide hole and then cover it with epoxy resin. But this method is considered not reliable enough.

The workpiece is sanded to make a more comfortable handle and glued to this clamping screw. Proceed to the main assembly. This simple task, allowing you to stick the film to the fixed head. The lock nut is strengthened and end caps are made. They should prevent the head from slipping off the rod. Therefore, it is advisable to screw a small plate onto the heel. Thereby the nut will not slip out of place. This acts like a hook.

Cam clamp

This device is not only useful, but also extremely simple. It must be remembered that cam clamps are fast-acting, but cannot guarantee high clamping force on parts. That's why they are used when relatively little cutting force is required. They are not suitable for working under high pressure, as is possible with a large clamp. But at the same time they are extremely easy to use.

A special template is used for preparation. It is needed to create curves. The template is made of metal, plastic or wood. It is used to tighten smooth curves. However, the cam mechanisms do not directly follow the French curve. The correct cam must have a profile, increasing the distance between the axis of rotation and constant speed. In this way it resembles a spiral drawn with a pencil.

The clamp is auxiliary tool, which is used to fix the boards when they are connected in a given position. The clamp is also suitable for holding boards while sawing them, for routing hacksaw blade, connections of various elements. Parts that require machining can be inserted into the tool. Then, using a movable element, they are clamped with jaws and begin to work. To securely hold parts in the desired position, it is recommended to use two or more clamps.

Homemade clamps are often made of metal or wood, and in terms of their characteristics they are not much inferior to purchased, factory-assembled ones. Since the design of the clamping device is simple, it will not be difficult to understand the principle of its operation in order to make it yourself.

Making a metal screw clamp

Before starting work you will need to prepare necessary materials. For the base of the structure, a steel sheet one centimeter thick, or any even trim of the same thickness, is suitable. The length of the workpiece is arbitrary, but they try to choose it taking into account the working distance of the clamp.

Main materials of manufacture:

  • steel sheet;
  • long bolts;
  • nuts

A drawing is being drawn up. The future body of the tool is marked on the workpiece material, which in appearance resembles the letter “C”. Instead of steel sheet you can use a section of profiled pipe, bent in the shape of the letter “C”. There are no special requirements for the thickness of the workpiece, but the design must be reliable. The choice of length is made taking into account the dimensions working area, processed parts.

After marking is applied, the part is cut out of metal. At home preparations small sizes can be cut using a grinder. But when making clamps of large dimensions, it is recommended to use a gas cutter or an acetylene torch. The next stage is processing and polishing the workpiece. All sharp edges and sagging formed when working with gas welding equipment are knocked off with a file, and the surface is sanded with sandpaper. This must be done so that when clamping the workpieces, you do not cut yourself on sharp edges.

Having prepared long bolts M 8, M 10, proceed to fastening the moving element. Why are nuts welded on one side of the workpiece under the selected bolts? If there are no bolts, you can select hexagons or steel rods required length with pre-cut threads.

At the inner working end of the screw, a flat, even part is welded, on which the function of the jaws is assigned. On the reverse side of the screw, a lever is attached by welding from scraps of a stud. Its presence will speed up the process of clamping workpieces , further reducing the amount of effort applied. This completes the assembly of the clamp with your own hands.

Corner clamp device

When making corner tools for furniture assembly, it is important to accurately maintain a right angle of 90°. Main available materials are corners with steel strips. To work you will need:

  • 40 mm steel angle 3-4 mm thick;
  • steel plates 40-50 mm;
  • threaded studs;
  • rods for gates;
  • nuts;
  • welding machine;
  • electric drill, taps.

The corner clamp is the most difficult to manufacture, but when carrying out some types of work you cannot do without it. On initial stage Corners are welded to the steel plates at right angles, and nuts are placed on each corner, which will serve to create worm design. Another option is to drill a hole in the corner and cut it using a tap. internal thread. The width of the working gap is selected taking into account the size of potential workpieces, but too large a stroke of the clamping wheel reduces the strength of their fixation.

To process parts of different sizes, it is recommended to prepare several clamps!

The stud is screwed into the welded nut. At its end there is a stop made of metal washers various diameters, which should scroll freely when the pin rotates. On the back side of the knob, a hole is drilled for a metal rod. Used as a lever, it will transmit more force, so it will hold workpieces more reliably.

Wooden clamp - made from leftover boards

The most popular is wooden quick clamp, but a tool of a similar design can also be made of metal. Despite the simplicity of the design, it is very convenient when performing various tasks.

The presence of two identical clamps expands the scope of their application!

For assembly you will need to prepare the following materials:

  • pieces of boards;
  • studs with pre-cut threads;
  • nuts and wings corresponding to the threads of the studs;
  • slats.

First, two studs of the same diameter with threaded threads are prepared. They must be 200 mm long. The nuts are matched to the threads of the studs. Two slats are prepared, preferably from hardwood. Best choice there will be oak, beech, birch, ash. The slats are adjusted to the same size. To do this, the excess length is sawed off and the cut is sanded. After this, two holes are drilled in each of the slats with a small tolerance. Moreover, the locations of the holes on each of the workpieces must match perfectly, and their diameter must correspond to the diameter of the studs.

Strips of plywood can be glued to the surface of the slats. They are adjusted to the size of the wooden blanks and holes are drilled. The studs are inserted into the resulting holes and securely fixed with nuts on one of the rails on both sides. To prevent material from pushing through, washers are placed under the nuts. This bar will always be stationary, but the other one will be able to move freely along the guides in the form of pins.

Another bar is installed. To do this, thread it through the studs and push it into place. Clamping is carried out using conventional nuts and open-end wrench, but for convenience and improved performance it is necessary to install wing nuts. Check the movement of the fastener; if it is difficult or additional adjustment of parts is required, or other defects are found, then they are eliminated. The work on assembling the wooden clamping device can be considered completed; all that remains is to test it in action.

Properly assembled clamping devices allow you to securely fasten wooden parts during carpentry work. Constructions listed types The fasteners are popular and so simple that they can be made independently from scrap materials using a minimum number of tools.

Over the hundreds of years that people have been processing wood and making various products from it, it seems that the craftsmen have tried all possible tools and devices. Meanwhile, the creation of all kinds of devices continues to this day. It is likely that all this was already invented by someone in past years, but each master tries to make devices that are suitable for him.

Wooden picture or photo frames are compressed when gluing, probably hundreds in various ways. I myself can offhand offer at least a dozen options; here is one of the devices for this work from White Myers, Workbench website.

Tape ties are most often used for compression when gluing square or rectangular products. Such as chairs, stools, boxes and small tables. The use of this mechanism is convenient because you can compress the entire product at once by applying glue and assembling the legs, drawers and legs of the chair. But when gluing wooden frames, the tape tie in in the usual form doesn't fit. The fact is that during compression it is impossible to maintain angles exactly 90*, due to uneven contraction.

In order to use a tape tie when assembling the frames, you need to make four corner blocks. The blocks have an outer rounded edge, which helps to compress the product evenly and sawn internal corner, exactly under 90*. It is imperative to drill a hole at the starting point of the corner to prevent the frame from sticking to the blocks. More options for frame clamps in the article.

Clamp for small parts

Every craftsman who works with wood uses for processing parts grinding discs And grinding drums. Sometimes you have to process a large number of small wooden parts. It can be difficult to hold them in your hand, and there is a risk of catching the drum with your hands.

To make a clamp you will need two wooden bars 150-200 mm long. and cross section 30/15 mm. . The bars can be made by sawing a round piece with a diameter of 30 mm into two parts. . Holes are drilled in the center of the bars for a clamping bolt with a wing and several washers.

During operation, the required gap between the platforms is immediately established, and compression is carried out using a wooden wedge in the tail section. The process is quick and simple: insert the part, push in the wedge and work. We take out the wedge, change the part and again clamp it with the wedge.