Effective fertilizers for spring feeding of irises. What to do with iris after flowering: basic care rules How to feed irises

Despite the fact that irises are outwardly unique flowers that grow in almost any land and always bring abundant flowering, this plant, just like any other, needs proper and timely feeding!

Moreover, irises should be considered one of the types of plants that “love” fertilizers! Therefore, it is important for every amateur gardener to know not only what to feed irises with, but also when, because each period of growth of these flowers is unique and requires special feeding!

When to feed irises?

Experienced gardeners, lovers and connoisseurs of irises advise feeding these plants in early spring. Fertilizers are poured almost immediately after the snow melts from the soil, and upper layer barely dry. Take about a pinch of dry matter and sprinkle it around the roots and directly on them. After fertilizing, it is advisable to slightly loosen the soil; this must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots protruding from the ground.

As soon as the first flowers appear, fertilizing must be repeated again. It is carried out in the same way as spring feeding. Immediately after fertilizing, the roots of the plant must be filled with plenty of water.

In order for irises to winter well, they need to be fed for the last time in August. In this case, nitrogen fertilizers are no longer used; preference is given to substances containing potassium and phosphorus.

What to feed irises with?

The best fertilizers for irises are all those that contain a large number of minerals. Such fertilizers must contain nitrogen and potassium, phosphorus and calcium.

If your irises are already “mature” - the plant is more than three years old, they need to be fertilized in a special way:

Spring fertilizing must contain nitrogen. It should be twice as much as the potassium and phosphorus used;
When the first buds are formed, it is necessary to increase not only the nitrogen content, but also potassium. They take exactly three times more than phosphorus;
As soon as the plant has flowered and about a month has passed, it is fed only with phosphorus and potassium, and these minerals are taken in equal parts.

On average, each feeding should consist of at least 15 grams of mineral fertilizers for each bush of a new plant. If irises are grown in sandy soil, double the amount of fertilizer.

Many summer residents use compost made directly on their summer cottages to feed irises. A small amount of it is scattered on the soil around the roots of the iris, after which the ground is slightly fluffed up.

What should you not feed irises with?

Irises are very finicky plants and if their roots are fed with manure, it will not do anything good! Firstly, such fertilizing will cause rotting of the plant roots. The irises will begin to get sick, flowering will be very rare, and if treated extensively, the plant may disappear. Secondly, a plant fertilized with manure will become the least protected from pests, so some disease and, of course, pests can be seen on its stems and roots.

Iris (iris) - perennial, widespread among gardeners. This plant is attractive because after the flowering period they remain attractive in appearance due to their beautiful foliage. They will decorate anyone garden plot throughout the season!

Soil for planting irises

Irises are light-loving plants and bloom poorly in the shade, so the place for planting them should be sunny. The soil for planting flowers must be prepared. It is best to fertilize it in advance with organic and mineral fertilizers. Then the soil needs to be loosened and dug up. Immediately before planting, there is no need to add manure to the ground; it is better to do this a year before planting.

In one place without transplantation, iris can grow for as long as 10 years, with the exception of a few varieties. During this time, they grow greatly, and they require a large area, otherwise all the bushes will not have enough nutrients.

It is best to plant flowers in summer. The roots of the seedlings are in their infancy, their growth is activated 2 weeks after planting. It is recommended to plant irises so that the roots are at soil level, and the fan of foliage remains in an upright position. The hole should be dug in accordance with the length of the root system, and at the bottom of the resulting hole you need to pour a mound of soil onto which the roots are laid. The seedling needs to be pressed a little and covered with a layer of soil on top. After these manipulations, the plant is watered; this must be done again 5 days after planting. If the weather is especially hot on planting days, then young plants need to be artificially shaded, but if, on the contrary, the weather is cool, then they need additional heating.

How to properly feed irises?

After the top layer of soil has dried, you need to carry out the first fertilizing of the soil. After fertilizers (preferably mineral) have been added to it, it needs to be loosened by about 5 cm. At the same time, try not to damage the roots, because they are located almost on the very surface. If the soil was fertilized before planting, then it will not need additional fertilizing all summer. But with the plants themselves, the situation is different - if they do not have enough nutrients, this will negatively affect their development and growth. Most often this occurs during the second vegetative formation of new shoots and during the formation of flower buds. If you feed irises during this period, they will bloom profusely. The most important thing in the fertilization process is moderate application of nitrogen. It can activate fattening of plants, as a result of which the bushes and leaves of irises will become thick and powerful, but there will be no flowering.

When to replant irises?

When transplanting these flowers, it is also necessary to follow certain technologies. First you need to take a pitchfork, not a shovel, and dig up the bush itself. The root system is very fragile and breaks easily, and the roots are quite long, so you need to be extremely careful when digging them out. Then the rhizomes need to be cleared of the ground and the rotten ones removed. After this, they should be divided into parts, each of which should be approximately 10 cm in length. In the area that has been allocated for replanting, there must be 2 blades of leaves. The leaves on the separated parts of the plant should be cut to 20 cm. Then the bush should be watered.

If you have chosen autumn period to plant irises, you need to dig up those plants that have already formed flower buds, no more than 6 cm long and 3 cm in diameter, with a well-developed root system. If weather conditions are good, the plant will soon take root and bloom next year!

Irises after flowering: care features

Caring for irises after flowering is almost no different from caring for other perennial plants. Weeds need to be pulled out by hand, since the roots of iris are located close to the soil surface.

At the end of autumn, when the period of flowering and development has finally stopped, the plant bushes need to be covered with foliage, some varieties of this plant especially need this. It is also recommended to cover the plantings with a 10 cm thick layer of peat; this must be cleaned off in the spring. Leaves with brown spots must be cut off. In exotic species of irises, half of all leaves need to be cut off.

After flowering has stopped, the peduncle should be broken off at the base.

A person who once saw blooming irises is unlikely to remain indifferent to them! And it will be especially nice to see this beauty in your garden or summer cottage! Although they are not as picky as some plants, they still require some care. Another advantage of irises is that they are perennials, therefore, there is no need for annual sowing of seeds. The gardener is only required to follow a few simple rules for growing these beautiful flowers!

Different types of irises experience winter differently, since not all of them are equally frost-resistant. But all flowers need good care in the autumn, which guarantees a safe winter, as well as subsequent bright and luxurious flowering.

Features of autumn care for irises

Caring for irises in autumn consists of the following activities:

pruning;
feeding;
preventative treatment;
shelter for the winter.

In autumn, irises need to be well prepared for wintering.

Pruning irises before wintering

Faded flower stalks of irises are removed almost immediately after flowering ends. It is not recommended to cut the foliage until it withers on its own. In the green above-ground part, photosynthesis processes continue, promoting the accumulation of nutrients in the rhizomes, so it cannot be removed.

Peduncles should be cut out immediately after flowering to prevent the formation of a seed pod.

Yellowed leaves are cut off in September or October, depending on the local climate. The fan of leaf plates is shortened to a height of 12–15 cm from ground level, trying to give it the shape of a house roof so that moisture flows down better and does not linger on the cuts.

The leaves of irises are cut off after they wither and turn a little yellow.

All trimmed foliage must be burned, since various harmful insects and pathogens of fungal infections settle in it for the winter.

Iris leaves are cut at an angle

Video: trimming irises correctly

Autumn feeding of irises

Like most garden crops, irises are fed with fertilizers of the phosphorus-potassium group in the autumn. It is better to do this after pruning, about 2-3 weeks before the first firm frost.

Wood ash is scattered on the bed between the plants

Irises respond well to application (per 1 m2):

Phosphate fertilizers:
- superphosphate - 45–60 g;
- phosphate rock - 150–200 g (no more than once every 4–5 years).
Potassium fertilizers:
- potassium salt - 25–30 g;
- wood ash - 200–250 g.
Mineral complexes:
- potassium monophosphate - 45–50 g;
- phosphorus-potassium mixture - 50–55 g;
- specialized complex fertilizers for flower crops.

Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed over the previously well-moistened soil under the iris bushes, and then the soil is slightly loosened and granules are embedded into it to a depth of 2–3 cm.

Granules of mineral fertilizers are scattered under the irises and embedded in the soil to a depth of 2–3 cm

In the fall, during the period of going to bed, irises should not be fertilized with mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as with organic matter (manure, fresh unrotted compost, chicken droppings), so as not to provoke untimely growth of the ground part. Excess nutrition can cause rotting of the rhizome.

Photo gallery: feeding for irises in autumn

Gera Flower Universal - mixed fertilizer for basic application and fertilizing on all types of annual and perennial soils flower plants, as well as decorative flowering shrubs Potassium salt has long been used as a fertilizer; this product is a mixture of potassium chloride, sylvinite and kainite Wood ash is a good potassium and phosphorus fertilizer for acidic or neutral soils Phosphate rock is a long-lasting fertilizer; it can be applied once every 4–5 years in increased doses without fear of harmful effects on plants Potassium monophosphate is a mineral fertilizer containing nutrients necessary for full growth Fertilizer Autumn universal Terrasol - mixed mineral fertilizer with microelements for feeding in the autumn for fruits and berries, bulbs and flower and ornamental crops Fasco Autumn is used at the very end of the growing season Fertika Autumn is a complex mineral fertilizer for feeding all types of plants in the late summer and autumn seasons. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer does not contain nitrogen Liquid complex fertilizer Bona Forte Autumn is intended for feeding ornamental shrubs and perennial plants Fertilizer Clean leaf for flower beds and rockeries - a concentrated mineral fertilizer containing all the elements necessary for plant nutrition in accessible forms

Preventive treatment of irises against diseases and pests

Fungal spores persist for a long time on withered and decaying foliage, and pests that have settled in for the winter can also be found on them. For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed:

Fungicides:
- Tsineb - 45–50 g per bucket;
- Fundazol - 30–35 g per bucket;
- Bordeaux mixture (1%), etc.
Insecticides:
- Malathion (Karbofos) - 60 g per 8 l;
- Actellik - 2 ml per 2 l;
- Aktara - 8–10 g per 10 l, etc.

Preventative treatments chemicals carried out after autumn pruning irises

For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed against pests and diseases.

Opponents of chemistry can pollinate plants with tobacco dust or wood ash powder. An infusion of onion peels (0.2 kg poured into 10 l) will also scare away unwanted residents hot water for 4–5 days).

Photo gallery: preparations for processing irises

Aktara is a strong systemic insecticide with rapid action. Actellik is used to treat gardening, agricultural and ornamental plants Bordeaux mixture is a drug that is used against pests and many fungal diseases of plants Malathion is a broad-spectrum insecticide and acaricide Fundazol is a broad-spectrum fungicide (antifungal agent) for plant protection Zineb is a protective fungicide that prevents the development and spread of various diseases

Sheltering irises for the winter

Many varieties of this flower culture have sufficient frost resistance to successfully survive the cold in open ground without additional insulation. Therefore, in the southern regions with a mild climate they are not covered for the winter. IN northern regions, where climatic conditions are much more severe, it is imperative to protect plants.

In warm climates, irises overwinter without shelter.

Quite often, during the growing season, the roots of irises become exposed and part of the rhizome is exposed. In the fall, you need to carefully examine all the plants and, if necessary, sprinkle the bare parts with garden soil. Young and recently transplanted specimens are subject to mandatory shelter.

Rhizomes that are above the ground must be covered with earth.

Protect beds with irises by laying a mulch layer (5–20 cm) from the following materials:

rotted manure or compost;
peat crumbs;
mixtures of sand and soil (1:1);
sawdust

It is extremely important that the mulch is dry. I try not to use fallen leaves, hay or straw, which easily rot when wet and are a source of mold and various fungal diseases. Rhizomes, coming into contact with damp covering material, can die and rot.

For the winter, irises are mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, pieces of bark, etc.

To ensure better snow retention, beds with irises are covered with branches, spruce branches or even tops.

In the northernmost regions, irises are covered with thick non-woven material on top of mulch or covered with boxes (boxes).

Additionally, irises are covered with spruce branches

Video: rules for successful wintering of irises

Video: subtleties of pre-winter preparation of irises

Strong and well-prepared irises for winter will easily survive the cold season, in the spring they will begin to grow early and subsequently produce powerful flower stalks with large buds.

Irises: planting and care.

bearded irises

, Iris, or as the common people call it, cockerel, is a beautiful perennial plant that does not require special care. This flower was known back in Ancient Greece. It received its name (in translation the word “iris” means “rainbow”) from the name of the goddess Iris. In myths, she descended along a rainbow to Earth. In confirmation of the name, the color scheme of the plant can vary and be any of the 7 colors of the rainbow: monochromatic or combined, combining several tones and shades. Interesting fact: irises are compared to orchids; these plants are close to each other in flower shape. The second feeding of bearded irises is applied at the beginning of budding. To prepare, dilute 1 tbsp. lie fertilizers potassium sulfate and Agricola for flowering plants" in 10 liters of water. Before fertilizing, it is advisable to sprinkle a little wood ash under the bushes. After all the fertilizer has been planted to a depth of 10 cm, the bed is spilled generously with water and left alone for 5-7 days. The date for planting the next generation of irises is mid-July, after flowering. What needs to be done for planting: Diseased iris leaf

Applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers later is dangerous, since irises “overfed” with nitrogen do not tolerate wintering well.

The most convenient time replant - 2 weeks after flowering ends. Irises planted in spring take root well. Flowers with a lump of earth can be transferred to another place throughout the entire warm period. Spring replanting of irises begins when young leaves appear. In this case, the planting bed is prepared in the fall. Humus, compost, bone meal and a little lime are added to the soil. In the spring, when the soil dries out, dig a hole 0.4 m in size and 15 centimeters deep. 5 mounds are formed at the bottom. Dried cuttings are laid horizontally on them, with their leaves pointing outwards. The roots of the divisions are straightened. Cover with the remaining soil. Watered. As a result, the rhizomes of planted plants should be covered with 1 cm of soil.

These plants are finicky and require complex care. Flowers require slightly acidic soil, moderately moist in summer, during flowering, fertile, without the slightest admixture of lime. The main problem that arises during cultivation is dry wintering.

But first let's look at different varieties irises, which sometimes differ from each other not only in appearance, but also in their growing preferences.

, which have a “beard” on the outer perianth lobes. These plants can be low-, medium- and tall-growing, have one-, two-color or a combination of several colors of the rainbow color, a peculiar smell, the shape of a beard, etc. When choosing a variety among bearded irises, a beginner should pay attention not so much to the color of the flower, but to endurance characteristics. So, for example, medium-sized (“Big blue eyes”, “Classic sunrise”, “Pink latte”, “Ringer”) and dwarf (“Sapphire Gem”, “Mini Dynamo”, “Hazel’s Pink”, “Wink” ) irises are considered relatively winter-hardy and do not need winter shelter even in the Moscow region. Tall varieties, especially modern ones (“Visual Arts”, “Fancy Woman”, “Ramblin's Rose”, etc.), in our conditions without shelter They winter poorly and often fall out. Purely theoretically, the hardiness characteristics of the selected variety can be approximately “calculated”, but in practice it, of course, will also depend on proper planting and care. The most stable ones that have stood the test of time are the so-called “retro” irises, which have been growing in our gardens for so long that they have not only lost their name, becoming simply “little blue”, “white”, etc., but have also become so familiar that even without care they can survive in abandoned summer cottages. For flower growers who do not have enough time to care for the garden, retro varieties “White City”, “New Snow”, “Caterina”, “Quechee”, “Ola Kala”, “Cadillac”, “Rainbow Room”, “Pretender” are ideal. Among other varieties of bearded irises, those whose flower colors contain either “natural” tones (blue, white, cyan, violet) or those easily obtained by breeders (yellow, red-brown, black) can be considered more stable. The presence of apricot, pink, deep orange and deep red shades, corrugation of the “petals”, original (for example, red) color of the beard or its “hornedness” sharply reduce the stability of plants - they either develop and bloom poorly in our conditions, or over time partially lose varietal characteristics. Of the modern varieties that are relatively hardy for our climate, we can name apricot-orange “Champagne Waltz”, “Avalon Sunset”, lace “Song of Angels”, “Queen of Angels” and two-color/two-tone “Impressionist”, “Jazzed Up”, “Proud” Tradtion", "Celebration Song", "Electrique", "Different World".

JunosUnder natural conditions, irises grow on almost all continents, where more or less acceptable conditions have been created for them. There is a wide variety of irises, more than 250 species in total. Irises vary in size and color, as well as in the soil in which they grow. Some varieties thrive in damp places and grow on river banks, while others grow on dry slopes. In Russia, iris gardeners prefer the varieties of Siberian and bearded irises. The last time irises are fed is 2 weeks after the end of flowering. In 10 liters of water we dilute 1 table. lie "Agricola-7", "Nitrophoska" and organic fertilizer "Flower". Spend per 1 sq. m. 5 liters of solution.

Bearded iris bushes must be divided every 3 years without fail. If this is not done, then after 5-6 years the irises will stop blooming completely. In any case, there can be no talk of any full-fledged flowering. This occurs due to compaction and depletion of the soil and lack of space for overgrown rhizomes.

Arrange planting holes in the flowerbed with a depth of ten centimeters and a distance between rows of forty centimeters. The bottom of the holes is covered with dry chernozem in order to place the iris with its root system on the mound. This way the roots will take the correct position - level with the surface of the earth.

Pests also do not ignore irises. They may appear:

Increase the winter hardiness of plants, help them go into a dormant state from August, reduce watering, stop loosening the soil, but still continue to remove weeds. Iris rhizome in a planting holeJapanese iris

Bearded irises are very popular in cultural breeding. Soft bristly growths on the lower petals forming a “beard” give them the name “bearded”. They are sometimes called the “northern orchid.”

All bearded irises - from dwarf to tall ones - develop normally and bloom only in well-lit, sufficiently cultivated and loose, slightly acidic/neutral soils, therefore, a month before planting, it is recommended to “lighten” the clay soil on the site river sand, sour - limed (chalk, dolomite flour), and poor sandy - enriched with compost. Due to shade planting, increased soil acidity, and nitrogen fertilizer (manure), plants tend to develop promising foliage but refuse to bloom. The best option plantings of bearded irises can be considered solitary groups and iridariums, where, with the help of a successful combination, you can create multi-tiered long-flowering compositions from tall, medium-sized and dwarf varieties. Alas, no matter how perfect the beauty of the bearded iris is when cut, it can be lost in a general planting next to “inappropriate” partners (for example, a silvery cleaver or an elegant dicentra), so you need to select neighbors for this plant very carefully. For example, planted next to different varieties two-color irises will create “chaos,” but they will fit perfectly into a composition with repeating single-color flowers (for example, blue-white with blue and white). In general plantings, soft pink, cream and sky blue irises harmonize perfectly with dark-flowered varieties, but do not combine well with aggressive shades (red poppy, etc.). When choosing partners, it should be taken into account that the growth of the surface roots of these plants can be suppressed by their perennial neighbors, so it is better to plant next to them bulbous plants(lilies, daylilies, daffodils), bergenia, saxifrage, sedum, bristly phlox, Cossack juniper, etc. Dwarf varieties of bearded irises are ideal for compact rockeries, medium-sized ones are ideal for large hills, but tall ones, as a rule, disrupt the proportions of rocky gardens and look better in separate groups.

, as well as hybrid forms

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Irises: planting and care in open ground - a rainbow of colors in your garden!

When growing a plant, the issue of its reproduction is important. Irises reproduce in two ways: by seeds and vegetatively. The first option is used for hybridization - breeding new varieties based on existing genetic material. Rhizome division ( vegetative method) is a frequently used option among breeders. Flower lovers prefer this option because... in this case, the plants bloom already in the first year, while plants propagated by seeds bloom in 2 - 3 years.

Planting and caring for irises

Fertilizing should always be carried out only on moist soil and followed by loosening. In the second half of summer they are completely stopped.

Types of irises

Bearded irises

You can divide the bushes at the beginning of spring. Using a sharp knife, a large, developed bush is cut into pieces. On each of the divisions there should be a well-developed leaf rosette.

When placing the iris in a planting hole, you need to take into account that the leaves are positioned vertically to the soil horizon.

Caring for irises in spring

Siberian iris

Handsome!

Autumn planting of irises begins in August, when the heat subsides, until the weather gets colder, until October. The soil is dug up. If it is heavy, it is diluted with sand. Dig a hole 15 cm deep. Place the prepared cut rhizome on the mound. The roots are sprinkled with sand. Cover with earth so that the “back” remains on the surface. Water well. It is better to place plants in a circle. Rhizomes are not mulched, this prevents their growth. In early spring, fertilize the soil with complex mineral fertilizers.

For the winter, they are covered with dry oak leaves, and plastic film is laid on top of them. But at the same time, the roots should not be allowed to dry out. To solve most problems with growing, such irises are grown in containers and transferred to a frost-free room for the winter.

Bearded irises

When choosing planting material(divisions of rhizome with leaves), you need to take into account its size and storage conditions: large divisions with 7 or more leaves bloom already in the first year after planting, but only if stored correctly. Without loss of quality, planting material of bearded irises can be stored for no more than 2 weeks, so if it is overdried (due to long shipment), the rhizome should be treated with growth stimulants (Ecogel, Zircon) before planting, and if there are traces of rot or mold (storage in dampness, in a plastic bag), they should be removed, the cuts should be treated with brilliant green and the area prepared for planting should be sprayed with a fungicide (Fitosporin-M). It is advisable to plant bearded irises immediately after flowering, during a period of relative dormancy, since two to three weeks after flowering they begin to actively grow roots and form future flower buds. When planting, it is very important to distribute the planting material in the ground so that the “backs” of the rhizomes are well warmed by the sun and are not shaded by a fan of leaves during the day, and the roots are placed a little deeper. As an option, make 2 shallow grooves next to each other in the north-south direction, place them on the mound of rhizomes formed in the middle, carefully straighten the cord-like roots in the grooves, fill the grooves and water them. At the same time, for tall and medium-growing varieties it is optimal to maintain an interval of 70 - 80 (50 - 60) cm between plants, and for low-growing varieties - 20 - 40 cm.

Japanese (xiphoid) irises

xyphium

Irises are divided and replanted only after they have bloomed, at the end of summer. In the spring, those plants are planted whose planting material was received in September of the previous year. These plants are left to overwinter in pots in a cool room at a temperature of no more than 10 °C. Otherwise, if they are planted in the soil at the end of autumn, they may die due to frost.

The peduncle of the plant after flowering has ended should be broken off near the base. Before the first frost, be sure to cut the iris leaves in half, the same as when planting. All yellow leaves cut off completely.

Leaves and roots in plots need to be shortened by half. Next, the cuttings are placed in a solution of the drug "Hom" (5 liters - 40 g) for 30 minutes to disinfect and destroy pathogenic bacteria.

Then the irises are filled in and watered so that the soil is saturated to the roots. And after a few days, repeated abundant watering is carried out.

will make the flower bed lush and beautiful.

Swamp irises

Irises need to be watered only during drought. They have enough precipitation. Be sure to water only when planting, during budding and when applying fertilizing.

Planting irises

Unusual flower shape - no other irises have this one.

Admire the many colors

Planting in open ground

Further care for bearded irises consists of removing weeds (preferably by hand) and watering - regular during budding and flowering and relatively rare during the rest of the period. To prepare irises for wintering, at the end of autumn they need to be cut off with a cone of leaves approximately at a height of 10 - 15 cm, covered with earth (a layer of at least 10 cm) and additionally covered with spruce branches in case of a snowless winter. And to obtain annual abundant flowering during the growing season, it is advisable to feed bearded irises three times with mineral fertilizers with a suitable concentration of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium: at the beginning of the growing season in a ratio of 2:1:1, during budding in a ratio of 2:1:3 and a month after flowering in a ratio of 0:1:1. As a rule, if the planting material of bearded irises was initially healthy and planted correctly, plant care is kept to a minimum. Otherwise, they bloom poorly, are often affected by diseases and pests and therefore require additional attention. 4 - 5 years after planting, bearded irises usually begin to lose their decorative properties and bloom worse, so they need to be replanted by dividing the rhizomes.

Selecting a location

, marketed as English, Dutch and Spanish bulbous irises, are perennial bulbous plants with a short growing season. Like most bulbous plants, they do not like damp places with heavy clay soil and develop well only in well-lit, moderately fertilized (at least with compost) and drained areas with a slightly acidic or neutral soil reaction. IN natural conditions the bulbs of these plants after flowering go into a period of “dry dormancy”, therefore, in our climate, it is recommended to protect them from heavy rainfall/watering before planting them in the fall, or to dig them up and store them in a warm, dry place until planting in the fall. In regions with a mild climate, where the temperature regime and precipitation most closely coincide with the optimal conditions for the development of bulbous irises, their perennial culture is quite successful even without annual digging, but in harsh climates, these weakly winter-hardy plants are strongly recommended to be grown like gladioli - with planting in the spring and mandatory digging in the fall.

Before planting irises, prepare the soil. They dig it up, loosen it, and some gardeners sift it. Planting irises in the spring, during the active growth of weeds, guarantees getting rid of them if you treat the ground with herbicides. Everyone knows that the more exquisite the flower, the better conditions it requires cultivation, i.e. Compost and fertilizers are added to the soil. After this, it is recommended to plant irises every other month.

Transplanting irises in spring

Before winter, the bed with irises is covered with a 10 cm thick layer of peat, which is raked in the spring, immediately after the snow thaws.

After which the treated sections are dried for 2 days in the sun. It is advisable to treat the cut areas with crushed coal.

Planting irises in autumn

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Caring for irises in spring

Planting bulbous irises

Fading flowers, and after flowering, the peduncles are removed. In the second half of autumn, iris leaves are cut off in a cone shape, leaving no more than 15 cm. Trimmed leaves are burned, as pest larvae and pathogens remain on them. Before frost occurs, the rhizomes are covered with 5-7 cm of soil. It is good to put dry leaves, tops, and spruce paws on top. In winter, snow is thrown onto the plantings.

Iris propagation

Iris bulbs are planted in the soil from September to October. The soil is dug up, filled with sand and complete mineral fertilizer. Prepare a hole about 15 cm deep, plant the bulbs at a depth of 7-8 cm from the surface, with the sharp end up. The adjacent bulb is planted no closer than 15 cm. The planted bulbs are covered with leaves or twigs. Do not remove the mulch until the danger of frost has passed in the spring. With the advent of sustainable warming, all excess is raked away, giving seedlings access to light.

Swamp irises are the most durable of the entire genus of irises. They can grow in water, and near water, and in a swamp.

There are few plants that can compare in beauty with the unpretentious and hardy Siberian iris. Its flowers are collected in several pieces at the top of the peduncle. Bright accent Siberian irises with narrow, bright green foliage have always stood out in the garden; their leaves curve elegantly in the upper part.

They have a little less beauty, but much greater resistance to unfavorable growing conditions and loss of decorativeness.

Care

As a rule, bulbous irises bloom in April - May (in the north they can shift to June), so in general compositions it is optimal to combine them with other early-flowering bulbous plants - crocuses, chionodoxes, hyacinths, tulips, snowdrops, daffodils, muscari, etc. P. IN suitable conditions These plants can grow in one place for up to 4 - 5 years without loss of decorativeness (without replanting), so in the south they can be planted in small rock gardens and rockeries among stones. And when using annual digging with their plantings, it is better to create color spots on lawns and in supporting walls, to design garden paths and the foreground in multi-tiered flower beds, where, after flowering, replace them with low-growing annuals (marigolds, phlox, etc.).

For planting, the rhizome should be prepared in a certain way. To do this, healthy and large bushes are dug up, the earth is shaken off from them, and the annual link is separated - a division. In order for the plant to take root, a division consisting of one link must have root system and a fan of leaves. The roots are pruned - shortened, dried or diseased leaves are removed, if the rhizome is damaged, it is cleaned of rotten areas, disinfected for no more than 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried in the sun. You can get planting material without digging up the entire bush. To do this, dig up the ground on one side and carefully separate part of the rhizome, which is then divided into sections.

Feeding irises

The most common and most dangerous disease of all irises is root rot, which develops into rotting of the bases of the leaves. If such a problem is detected, you must immediately dig up the affected plants and cut out with a knife all the affected areas of the rhizome to healthy tissue.

Iris divisions are planted obliquely at a shallow depth so that the growth point and top part the rhizomes remained just above the soil level. After planting, the bed is watered abundantly. Plants begin to bloom normally the next year

Bearded irises

Feeding and replanting

Watering

Prevention is the main thing in the fight against pests and diseases. If you keep the area clean, remove weeds in a timely manner, and apply mineral fertilizers in moderation, then the plants will be less affected by diseases and the number of pests will decrease. Most often, irises are affected by:

Trimming

You can propagate, rejuvenate and replant moisture-loving irises in early spring or at the end of summer. The bush prepared for transplantation is cleared of soil, broken, diseased or dead parts are removed. The roots are cut off, leaving a third part. Leaves are cut by two thirds. The rhizome, cut into several parts, is “disassembled” into planting sections.

Diseases and pests

Marsh irises

Iris sibirica
beardless irises

When purchasing planting material, you should pay attention not only to its healthy appearance, but also to its winter hardiness characteristics: successful cultivation of Juno, Spanish and Dutch bulbous irises in open ground is possible only in mild climates, and in middle lane It is better to grow relatively winter-hardy iridodictiums and English bulbous irises, but also only if they are provided with summer “dry dormancy”. Iris bulbs should be planted early - in mid-August - early September - this will help prolong the growing season and stimulate an increase in the size of planting material. Before planting, the bulbs should be kept for 20 minutes in a solution of fungicide (manganese), and during the procedure they should be buried to a “standard” depth of three diameters, but not deeper than 10 cm in the south and 15 cm in more severe climates. Please note: usually, during the summer dormancy period, the roots of bulbous irises die off and their dried remains are removed before planting, but such dying off is not typical for Juno, so its roots, on the contrary, should be preserved as much as possible during planting. From a botanical point of view, it is generally difficult to compare juno with the iris, because the external similarity between these plants is observed only in the structure of the flower, nothing more.

Planting irises requires compliance with the following recommendations. Firstly, the place for them should not be shaded, but it should be in a windless area with slightly acidic or neutral soil. To plant, dig a hole, place a rhizome in it, on a previously made mound, the roots of which are carefully straightened in a horizontal direction. The rhizome is covered with earth, lightly pressed and watered. Before planting, the rhizome can be treated with a special substance that improves growth; For this, irises will thank you with beautiful, bright blooms. The distance between planted bushes should be on average about 50 cm, with a hole depth of 3 cm. To prevent the plant from making its own shadow, the fan of leaves is directed towards the south. To form irises beautiful landscape, it is necessary to take into account the height of the peduncle, i.e. plant dwarf ones in front (up to 40 cm), then medium-sized ones (up to 70 cm), and then tall specimens (more than 70 cm). Depending on the variety, they grow in one place for 3 - 5 years hybrid varieties and up to 10 years - Siberian irises. During this time, the bushes grow and require new fertile territory.

Flowers are very light-loving and when grown in a shady place they stop blooming. Therefore, to plant irises, be sure to choose a sunny place in the garden.

Irises are at the same time a way to enlarge and rejuvenate a flower garden. In any case, agricultural technology recommends replanting flowers every five years. Organic fertilizers are used annually, and mineral fertilizers - twice.

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Caring for irises in spring - feeding and replanting - Seasons

Soft rot of the rhizome, Rhizomes ready for transplanting

At the same time, marsh iris also feels good on dry soil. In one place it can grow and maintain its attractiveness for 8 years or more, requiring almost no care.

These irises bloom profusely every year. They are disease-resistant, winter-hardy, wind-resistant, and quickly create a bright spot. Their palette contains a variety of colors and shades from soft white to dark purple with a purple tint. There are blue and yellow ones among them. Most of them, as a rule, are more moisture-loving, mostly winter-hardy, prefer to grow on acidic soils and do not require replanting for at least 7 - 10 years - Bristle Iris (I. setosa), Siberian Iris (I. sibirica), Smooth Iris (I. laevigata), False Iris (I. pseudacorus), Japanese Iris, or Kaempfer's (I. kaempferi = I. Ensata), Spuria irises, etc. Among domestic flower growers, unfortunately, only the Siberian iris has earned the greatest popularity - an exceptionally winter-hardy and hardy plant that develops and blooms in semi-shaded places even better than in the sun. Although other beardless species correct use on the site they can compete with both the Siberian iris and even the most elegant bearded irises. For example, the branched stem of the false calamus, or yellow iris, bears 12 - 15 flowers during flowering, and in its ability to quickly reproduce from seeds, it is often compared even to weeds, because, unlike its bearded relatives, it actively grows and suppresses neighboring plants . The bristly iris is characterized by high frost resistance, as well as the presence of numerous forms and varieties (tall and medium-sized, with a single arrow-shaped or branched multi-flowered peduncle), presented mainly in white-lavender-lilac tones. This plant, even in the harsh conditions of Siberia and the Far North, not only successfully vegetates, but also manages to reproduce by seeds (varieties “Innu Spring”, “Point Riche”, “Labraska”, “Hecitu Welo”, etc.). Amazing ability survive in harsh conditions continental climate, and in the tropics the smooth iris also has, growing in nature in marshy meadows and swampy lowlands. Compared to the listed species, Japanese and spuria irises are also relatively moisture-loving, but have slightly less winter hardiness and require a sufficient amount of total heat for regular abundant flowering, so they are usually recommended to be grown in the southern regions.

Feeding irises in spring

Caring for planted irises should consist of regular loosening of the soil and watering, as well as mandatory mulching of the plantings for the winter (to be on the safe side, you can additionally cover them with a layer of dry leaves). When grown for many years in one place in early spring (with the beginning of bud formation), it is recommended to feed bulbous irises with complete mineral fertilizer in a weak concentration, and after flowering, cover them with glass or polyethylene during rain (watering). It is necessary to dig up the bulbs when the leaves begin to turn yellow, since if the procedure is carried out later, the likelihood of losing part of the planting material due to the scattering of nests increases. The formation of flower buds in iris bulbs occurs during the growing season, so they usually do not require a special temperature storage regime, as for tulips, before planting - it is enough to provide a temperature of 15 - 25 ° C with an air humidity of 70 - 80%.

Caring for planted irises is not particularly difficult. The soil is loosened, weeds and dry leaves are removed. If necessary, plants are watered and fed, and actions are taken to combat pests and diseases, if any. In autumn, old leaves must be removed and burned, because... Pests may be hiding there.

Preparing to transplant irises

Heterosporosis is also a very dangerous disease of irises in which small spots appear on the edges of the foliage of affected plants Brown. Gradually, the leaves of the plant completely turn brown. This usually happens in the second half of summer.

Caring for irises
These plants are quite dry-loving, so severe waterlogging has a detrimental effect on them. All varieties of iris are winter-hardy crops. Many of the large-flowered and tall varieties require a garter to eliminate the possibility of flower stalks breaking from the wind.

Planting irises

Organics rich in nitrogen are consumed in the form of humus mixed with peat. This fertilizer is placed above the base of the flowers. Minerals are dissolved in water and the flower garden is covered with them.

bacteriosis.
They try to carefully untangle the remaining roots. Each resulting division should have 3-5 bunches of leaves. The soil is prepared by adding peat and complex mineral fertilizer into the excavated soil. The planting hole is dug so that the roots, placed on the rhizome mound, hang freely, and after compacting the soil, the rhizome is at a depth of 5-7 cm. The planted plant is watered and mulched with peat. The seedlings are placed 20 -30 cm apart from each other.
Marsh iris

Another irreplaceable quality of Siberian irises is their immunity to bacteriosis. Moreover, it also heals the soil in case of this disease. If the area is infected with bacteriosis, then in just 3-4 years Siberian irises will heal the soil from this terrible disease.

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Bearded iris cultivation and care

Beardless irises can be considered ideal option for planting either on the shore or inside a natural or artificial reservoir (to a depth of 20 - 40 cm), additionally decorated with exquisite water lily flowers. In a general flower garden, most of these plants do not require special care (shelter from precipitation and frost) and are perfectly tolerant of partial shade and dampness, which is harmful to other species, and go well with bright daylilies, peonies, bells and hostas (plantain, blue). These irises are not too inferior to bearded irises in terms of decorativeness, but unlike the latter, they have no scent at all. The most significant drawback of beardless irises can be considered their intolerance to drying out of the rhizome, which often poses a problem when planting/transplanting. But, on the other hand, their easy seed propagation (by sowing in open ground in the fall) makes it possible to grow specimens that acquire significant resistance in any climate. It is interesting that special temperature preparation is not needed for Juno and Iridodictium bulbs, even when used for forcing : planted in autumn in pots and bowls and kept in cool (5 - 10 ° C) well-lit greenhouses, they readily bloom in early to mid-winter. Particularly valuable for forcing can be considered junos, in which flowers appear before leaves (J. baldschuanica, J. persica, J. nicolai Vved., etc.), as well as the most decorative types of junos (J. caucasica, J. vicaria Vved ... weeks) remain decorative not only on the plant, but also when cut, but to force their bulbs after digging, they should be stored for a month at a temperature of 30 - 35 °C, then a month and a half at 15 - 20 °C and a week at 9 - 10 °C, and after planting, keep at 12 - 15 °C.

Plants overwintering in the ground are “covered” to avoid freezing. To do this, use sand with wood ash, fir branches, peat depending on the variety and soil acidity preferences. In the spring, when the snow melts, it is recommended to use a pitchfork to turn the winter house of the irises, but not to remove it immediately, in view of probable frosts. And then in the new season the irises will bloom again, creating an elegant look for the flowerbed or lawn.

Planting iris

To combat this disease effective way is only complete pruning of leaves, followed by burning them. To prevent the disease, treating all irises with a solution in July gives a good effect. copper sulfate 50 g per 5 liters of water). The treatment should be carried out once, by spraying, 10-15 days after the end of flowering. consists of systematically loosening the soil, removing weeds and regular fertilizing. During the flowering period, you should water only in the evening hours as needed, without overuse, protecting the flowers from moisture. Soil for

The dose of phosphate preparations is calculated per square meter of area allocated for a flower bed. Fifty grams of superphosphate dissolved in a liter jar hot water, irises are enough to replenish the supply of minerals after a grueling winter.

The main cause of rot is deep planting. When planted correctly, the back of the rhizome always “suns” in the sun. The first signs of bacteriosis appear in the drying of the leaves. They turn brown, bend and are easily pulled out. At the next stage, the disease spreads to the growing part of the rhizome, which rots.

This is how you can divide the rhizomes

Most of the genus Iris, such as bearded, marsh, steppe or Siberian, store nutrients in thick, horizontally located rhizomes. Annual growth is clearly visible on them. Dutch and broadleaf irises grow from bulbs.

Siberian irises

It is recommended to plant/replant beardless irises in the south in August - September, and in the north - in mid-late summer. When planting, the rhizomes of plants need to be slightly buried (3-5 cm), and after the procedure additionally mulched with peat, pine litter or oak leaves (layer 7-10 cm), which will help maintain the required acidity and constant soil moisture. Despite the fact that in regular watering These moisture-loving irises need watering from spring to autumn very often (2 - 3 times a week) only during budding, and after flowering they are quite tolerant of a lack of moisture (watering once a week or two). Sufficient moisture in combination with fertilizing (similar to that for bearded irises) ensures rapid growth, abundant flowering and healthy plant development. Most beardless irises do not need winter shelter, but weakly winter-hardy specimens (Japanese, spuria irises) in harsh climates are strongly recommended to be covered like bearded specimens. These plants should be replanted (planted) once every 7 - 10 years (Japanese once every 5 - 7 years), preferably in a new place with fertilized soil.

Some gardeners find caring for bulbous irises tedious (this mainly concerns annual digging) and prefer to grow “less troublesome” rhizomatous species. Alas, this cannot be said about all rhizomatous irises, so beginners are advised to correctly choose the type (variety) before purchasing planting material.

Caring for irises

I’m ashamed to admit, but from the majority of domestic gardeners, irises (cockerels, iris) - plants with a centuries-old history and an unpredictably rich prospect in the field of hybridization - to put it mildly, do not receive due attention. While in the West these perennials are also used in landscape design, both for forcing and for cutting, with us they often deserve only a modest “right to decorate the territory.” And the reason for this attitude is not so much the relatively weak winter hardiness of many species of the Iris genus and their short flowering, but rather the reluctance of novice gardeners to delve into the study of the biological characteristics of these plants in order to ensure their successful long-term cultivation. Many taxonomists (mostly Western) call both rhizomatous and bulbous perennials (xyphium, iridodictium, juno) irises, which already implies significant differences in their cultivation. And some rhizomatous species are characterized by different requirements for growing conditions (lighting, humidity, etc.), which also significantly affects not only planting, but also further care of plants. In practice, to successfully grow irises, it is not at all necessary to delve deeply into the study of their botanical classification, but beginners at a minimum need to be able to distinguish bulbous irises from rhizomatous ones, and among rhizomatous ones, identify bearded and beardless species. Irises suffer much less from pests than from diseases. The greatest danger to these flowers is Gladiolus thrips. When affected by thrips, iris leaves lose their usual waxy coating and take on an unhealthy appearance and look depressed.

growing irises What they do to prepare: Iris rhizome rot

In order for such beauties to please the eye for several years, you need to properly care for them

For planting any irises, a place is allocated that is closed from the wind and open to the sun, especially in the first half of the day. It should have well-drained soil. Irises love it when the “back” and rhizomes are illuminated by the sun. But they also grow well in partial shade, especially Siberian irises, whose delicate blue flowers fade quickly in bright sun. Light loam is preferred for most irises. But these flowers will also do well on sandy soil. Heavy, damp, clayey soils are diluted with sand and peat. In low-lying, damp areas, only marsh irises grow.

Japanese irises or scientifically called xiphoid irises. Hybrids of these flowers are unusual in their shape, even for irises.

Preparing irises for winter

Comparing growing conditions with appearance irises, we are once again convinced of the truth long known to flower growers - “what more beautiful plant, the better care it needs.” I would like to believe that the advantages of bulbous and beardless irises will not always “remain in the shadow” of bearded beauties and our flower growers will still give them a worthy place, if not on the site, then at least among forcing plants in the greenhouse or on the windowsill.

The group is characterized by the greatest variety of varieties and forms

Diseases and pests of irises

Iridodictiums

The most effective way to combat thrips is to treat irises with a solution of the drug "Confidor". Dilute 1 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water. Spray in evening time, spending per 1 sq. meter of area 1 liter of solution.

Feeding irises

you need neutral and light, without fresh manure and without oversaturation with other organic fertilizers. Before planting, the bed is dug up using a spade, after which a bucket of humus is added per 1 sq.m of planting area.

Fertilize the soil. It is enough to add a little compost with peat and a mixture of superphosphates and potassium sulfate (twenty grams each) per square meter. After which the flowerbed is dug up with a slope to the south. And with the help of soil they raise it about twenty centimeters above the rest of the earth’s surface.

The affected bush is dug out of the ground, the rotten part is cut out to healthy tissue and treated with any fungicide, in extreme cases potassium permanganate or iodine. Then keep in the sun for at least 8 hours. During this time, the rhizome is turned over several times.

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Care for plantings came down to weeding, careful loosening of the soil, watering, fertilizing, treatment against pests and diseases, pruning after flowering and before wintering.

Iris long-term care

A blooming iris is a decoration for any flower bed. But what to do if the long-awaited flowering never came? There are many reasons for this phenomenon, and sometimes they are revealed in combination.

The time when irises bloom begins in May and continues until July. The flowering of these amazing plants You can enjoy it for almost three months! By themselves they are not too whimsical. Some varieties grow well in sandy or peat soil, adapt to Siberian conditions and hot climate. Therefore, it is a shame when irises are planted in fertile soil, but the flowers never appear.

There are at least 9 important reasons, why the irises don’t bloom, and only leaves grow in the flowerbed. Let's take a closer look at what to do in each case.

Reason 1. Irises are planted too deep

First of all, it is worth checking whether the irises are planted correctly. Often the plant develops even with an improperly buried rhizome, but this can cause a lack of flowering, and sometimes even leads to the death of the bush. Finding out if everything is okay is quite easy. Look at the base of the plant; the root collar should remain open by a third to receive sunlight. If everything is covered with earth right down to the leaves, the planting is incorrect and needs to be changed.

When planting correctly, the back of the rhizome should be turned in south side. This way it warms up in the sun, which stimulates the formation of flower buds. In autumn, when the temperature drops to 5°C, cover the back so that the iris will bloom next year.

If the reason is deep planting, you should not dig up the plant so as not to injure the roots. It’s better to try to free the root collar from the ground by removing 1 cm of soil. This procedure does not guarantee flowering, but it will reduce the likelihood that the rhizome will rot. In rare cases, the rhizome itself may come to the surface, but only if the soil is loose enough.

Reason 2. Irises do not have enough lighting

Irises love sunlight, so they bloom well only in well-lit areas. If your iris grows in shade or even partial shade, flowering will be poor or may not occur at all. Solving the problem is quite easy - transplant the bushes to another place. Irises will tolerate this procedure well, because plants already need it every 5 years for full growth and flowering. It is better to transplant at the end of July or August.

Sometimes irises bloom well year after year, and then suddenly stop. In this case, pay attention to where they have grown during this time. Perhaps the bushes are in a shaded area or the sun is now being blocked by tree crowns.

Reason 3. Irises suffer from excessive or insufficient watering

Irises tolerate dry weather quite easily and do not require frequent watering. But there are situations when moisture is vital for plants:

in the first two to three weeks after planting;
during the period of bud formation.

If you missed these points, then the irises are unlikely to bloom, because lack of moisture prevents healthy buds from forming and disrupts the development of the root system.

Excess moisture causes even more damage to the plant: rot appears, buds and leaves become limp. Iris may completely die! To prevent both problems, you need to adjust watering and carefully monitor the condition of the soil.

But what to do if the plants have already suffered from improper watering? Water dry plants generously and repeat the procedure when the soil dries out. Rotten ones - dig them up and dry them in the sun, after removing the rot from the roots. It is advisable to change the soil at the planting site to fresh one.

If the summer is very hot, flowering irises also need watering. It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening. In this case, moisture should not get on the flowers.

Perhaps this year the irises will no longer have the strength to bloom, but in this case the main objective- save the plants. Therefore, do not waste time if there is no flowering due to improper watering, and take immediate action.

Reason 4. Irises lack nutrients

For full development and luxurious flowering, iris bushes require regular feeding. It is usually carried out in three stages: two before flowering and one after. It is not always easy to understand that irises are lacking nutrients; in appearance, they may look as usual. But there are several sure signs:

the buds fall;
the plant blooms sparingly or does not bloom at all;
the plant grows poorly;
the root system does not develop;
the leaves dry out at the edges and curl.

If the reason is a lack of fertilizing, you should not immediately fertilize the irises abundantly so that the plants do not experience stress. Start by fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium. To do this, add 15-25 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate per 1 square meter. m. After two weeks, repeat the same volume of ammonium nitrate and add double superphosphate (25-30 g per 1 sq. m).

Organic fertilizers, in particular manure, can destroy irises. After such feeding, the roots may rot and the leaves may fall off. Flowering becomes weak or stops altogether. As a last resort, you can feed irises with organic matter only in the form of a solution (infusion) in a ratio of 1:20.

After fertilizing, water the plants thoroughly.

How to feed irises for lush flowering

To ensure that the irises bloom magnificently and the buds are strong and large, the bushes can be fed:

wood ash - pour 2 tbsp under each plant. l. ash;
leaf humus - spread it in a thin layer at the roots of the irises as mulch and loosen the soil a little;
minced fresh fish - dilute 400 g of minced meat in 10 liters of water, water the irises every other day at the root. Stop fertilizing two weeks before flowering.

Reason 5. Irises are cramped in the flowerbed

Iris rhizomes grow quite quickly, so every 4-5 years, sometimes less frequently, they need to be divided and replanted. If during this time you have not carried out this procedure, your plantings may be very thick, and in such conditions it is not easy for irises to bloom. Moreover, crowding can cause the development of diseases and will certainly attract pests.

It’s easy to solve this problem: plant irises at the end of July or August. Carefully dig up the rhizomes, cut them into pieces, remove damaged or rotten areas and plant the plants in a well-lit place. Next spring, subject to other care measures, flowering will definitely come!

When planting irises, leave at least 40 cm between rhizomes.

Reason 6. Iris rhizomes rotted last summer

Was the weather rainy and cold last summer? Then it is not surprising that irises do not want to bloom. Due to excess moisture, the roots of the plants have probably rotted and are on the verge of death. To save them, limit watering, and in August, dig them up and trim off any rotten parts. Treat the sections with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate, and water the soil in the new place where you plant the irises with some antifungal drug, for example, Fitosporin.

Reason 7. Irises suffered during hibernation

If irises are not covered for the winter protective material, their flower buds can be severely damaged by frost. In this case, the plant itself will develop as usual, and you will not immediately understand that it is not feeling well after an unsuccessful winter. Even frost-resistant Siberian irises may lose their ability to bloom. Therefore, cover the plants for the winter with spunbond or spruce branches.

Do not cover the flower beds too early, otherwise the plants will die and will not bloom. It is better to do this with the beginning of frost, approximately in the middle - second half of November.

First of all, inspect the rhizome of the plant without digging it out of the ground. You can rinse the roots a little with water to make it easier to see the damage. Dark soft parts that should be carefully cut off should alert you. sharp knife to living tissue. Sprinkle the cut areas with coal and then dig into the ground. If the damage is large, you will have to completely dig up the bush and separate the surviving parts.

Reason 8. Irises are affected by diseases and pests

Diseases and pests often prevent irises from blooming. Sometimes this problem occurs in combination with dense plantings and freezing after winter, when the plant’s immunity is reduced.

To determine the condition of the irises, carefully inspect the bushes. Most often they are affected by fusarium or dry rot, leaf spot, and rust. For treatment and prevention, use fungicides, for example, Fundazol.

As for pests, greatest harm cutworms are applied to the plants, which eat the flower stalks and thereby prevent the plant from blooming. These pests can also damage the rhizomes, which can cause the iris to soon rot.

Gladiolus thrips, which settle on leaves, are no less dangerous. In the latter, the process of photosynthesis is disrupted and they dry out. You can identify pests by the presence of dry leaves. Also, irises may suffer and not bloom due to the active activity of mole crickets and larvae May beetles. Slugs also cause considerable damage.

If there are too many insects, you cannot do without store-bought insecticides. But folk remedies can also help: spraying with a decoction of wormwood (1 kg per 3 liters of water) or celandine (chop 250 g of leaves, pour in 1 liter of water and leave for 2 days). Such procedures should be repeated every 5 days.

Reason 9. Feature of the iris variety

None of the reasons above explain the lack of flowering? Perhaps it's all about the variety of iris! U different types- its own flowering time and growth characteristics. For example, Siberian irises thrive in acidic soils, while bearded irises, on the contrary, do not bloom and get sick. Therefore, before buying an iris, find out whether it is adapted to your climate zone, what kind of soil it likes, and try to create conditions favorable for flowering.

We hope you were able to figure out why the irises did not bloom, and now you will take the necessary measures so that the plants will delight you with their amazing flowers.