Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils: technology and rules for installing the system. How to make site drainage on clay soils with your own hands Drainage of the foundation of a house on clay soils

Not all owners of suburban plots are “lucky” with ideal hydrogeological conditions. It is often only during the process of cultivating the land or building that they realize that groundwater lies high and that during flood periods there are puddles for a long time. There is no need to worry, drainage will solve this problem. Agree, building it is much easier than looking for a perfect site.

The drainage system will remove excess moisture from the soil and plant layer, which will provide normal height cultural green spaces. It will divert underground water from the foundation in case of contact, protect the basement and inspection hole garage from flooding.

Those who want to arrange the drainage of a garden plot with their own hands or through the efforts of a team of landscape workers will find detailed answers to all sorts of questions from us. Our material describes in detail the options for groundwater drainage systems and methods for their construction.

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

1. The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
2. Groundwater is noted at a level close to the earth's surface.
3. The site is located in a lowland, river valley or drained swamp area.
4. The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
5. The dacha was built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with underlying clay soils: sandy loam, loam. During periods of heavy rainfall and snow melting, this type of rock allows water to pass through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Stagnation of water at the level of soil development is associated with waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively multiplies, infections and pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases of vegetable crops, rotting of the roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

Due to stagnation of water, the soil and plant layer becomes waterlogged, as a result of which plants die in a water-saturated environment and the appearance of the site deteriorates. The drainage system allows you to eliminate moisture instantly, preventing its long-term impact on the ground

If the problem of waterlogging of the soil is not addressed, erosion of the soil may occur over time. In frosty weather, soil layers containing water will swell, which can cause damage to the foundation, paved paths and other landscaping facilities.

To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out throughput soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the maximum.

If the water is absorbed within a day, then the underlying soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not go away, it means that clay rocks lie under the soil and plant layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

Due to the heaving of water-saturated rocks, the walls of residential structures may crack, as a result of which the building may become unsuitable for permanent residence

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Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope are faced with a problem when water stagnates in the lowest place, when the water intake may be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well into which a drainage pump must be installed. With its help, water is pumped upward and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

If it is planned to build a absorption well on the site to utilize the collected water, then the work on its construction is carried out in the following sequence:

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Nature doesn't always arrange everything exactly the way we want. This is especially noticeable in our own plot of land. One of the problems may be periodic flooding of the ground after snow melts or heavy rainfalls. The solution is obvious - a drainage system is needed, especially if the soil is poorly permeable.

Do-it-yourself site drainage clay soils– the event is quite feasible, although labor-intensive. It is important to correctly perform some calculations and take into account a number of features of clay soils.

When planning a drainage system, first determine the type of soil on your site. In our case, the permeability of the soil layer is important. If its degree is high, then drainage may simply not be required.

On clay soils everything is different: they are heavy, do not allow moisture to pass through well, and therefore take a long time to dry. Which Negative consequences this gives?

Let's start with basic discomfort. If the region is famous for snowy winters, then in the spring the land on the site is almost like a swamp. Walking is almost impossible - dirty and slippery. Plus none gardening work: Is it possible to do anything on soggy soils?

Vegetation will also suffer. Soil oversaturated with moisture does not allow oxygen to reach the root systems very well. The result is oxygen starvation, oppression and even death of plantings. This is clearly noticeable if there is a lawn on the site: the soil there is dense in itself, since loosening is not carried out. Flooding is especially dangerous when the crops begin to ripen. The quality of clay soil in the beds and in the garden can be gradually improved, but this is very difficult to do over the entire site.

Wet soils are a real resort for some snails and slugs. These pests can significantly damage plantings, especially vegetable ones. Waterlogging of the soil can unpredictably damage the foundations of buildings. Even high-quality waterproofing can break down over time if the soil is subject to deep freezing. It's just not safe anymore.

Do groundwater flow relatively close to clay soils? This could be another problem. In this case, the soil has virtually no chance to dry properly. Any serious downpour and the ground literally turns to mush.

Conclusion: site drainage on clay soils is necessary. All problems are immediately resolved: the soil dries out much faster than before, you can make beautiful paths and not be afraid that they will “float”, the garden flourishes in every sense.

What kind of soil do you have?

Determining the degree of soil permeability is easy. Dig a hole of small diameter, 0.6 m deep, and fill it with water. Has the moisture gone deeper within 24 hours? This means that the soil has high permeability. Two days have passed, but the pit is not yet empty, which means the soil is definitely heavy. Draining the area with your own hands is definitely necessary.

How to make drainage on a site

How to make drainage of a site on clay soil with your own hands? The type of drainage system depends on several factors:

• land area;
• estimated amount of precipitation, groundwater and melt water;
• financial opportunities.

According to the method of installation, drainage on the site can be superficial or buried. In the first case, shallow trenches and special trays are required, which are covered with gratings. In the second, the trenches are much deeper. They are lined with geotextiles, then a layer of crushed stone is poured, and drainage pipes (drains) are laid.

On top and on both sides of the pipes there is another layer of crushed stone, over which the edges of the textile are folded overlapping and secured. Then - backfilling with soil.

On heavy soils it is recommended to combine both methods. Surface drainage will ensure rapid drainage of melt and sediment water. The inhabitants of the site will not have to wait until the moisture itself seeps into the soil. The recessed part of the drainage system will reliably direct water to Right place.

There are two more important points:

1. In heavy soils, it is undesirable to lay drains where the car will drive (park). The earth in this place will quickly become denser, and this part of the system will simply become useless.
2. At the stage of digging trenches, the soil in places where drainage channels are installed must be thoroughly loosened. This will temporarily increase its permeability and slightly slow down caking and compaction.

Design

On small area you can do without serious engineering calculations. It is enough to clearly imagine the entire system.

1. Take a plan of your site, preferably to scale. All buildings must be marked on it. At the time of design, you should already know whether there is a natural slope on the site. Most often this can be seen without any instruments. If you have any doubts, invite a specialist with a level.
2. Start drawing the future drainage system on the plan. The main thing is the main canal, the main drainage system. It runs from the highest point of the site to the lowest. If the site is flat, then the direction of the main drainage system can be chosen arbitrarily, and the slope can be formed artificially.
3. Then you need to design where additional drainage ditches will go. On clay soils, the distance between them should be about ten meters. The finished drainage system resembles a Christmas tree in appearance on the plan.

If it is possible to make combined drainage, then at the end of each “branch” and at the beginning of the main line there should be areas for rapid collection of water from the surface.

An important question: where will the excess water go? There are three most popular options:

1. Ditch along the road (it is advisable to coordinate with neighbors “downstream”).
2. Decorative swamp on the site itself.
3. Underground water intake well with drainage pump.

Performance

For buried drainage, trenches with a depth of 1 - 1.2 and a width of 0.35 meters will be required. The amount of geotextiles, crushed stone, pipes, connecting and other elements is calculated in advance based on the drainage diagram. Tools needed:

• bayonet and shovel shovels for earthworks;
• wheelbarrow or stretcher (remove soil, carry and pour out crushed stone);
• for the correct formation of the slope - a rod and a level;
• hacksaw to cut pipes.

It is important to remember: the slope is formed at the rate of approximately 1 cm per meter of pipe.

After the geofabric, crushed stone, pipes and drainage trays have been laid, it is important not to rush into the final filling of soil. Given the complexity of the soil, the drainage system needs testing. If possible, wait for a suitable downpour; if not, simulate precipitation using a hose and a stream of water.

If the flows correctly pass the entire system from beginning to end, the tests can be considered successfully completed. If the water stagnates, it is advisable to lay additional channels.

Installing drainage on clay soil will significantly improve the condition of the site, increase the comfort of staying there after snow melts or heavy rainfall, and make gardening easier.

If you wish, you can even design the plot according to the latest fashion in the area landscape design, after all excess moisture will stop preventing this.

The drainage system, if it is done correctly and with high quality, will work for decades without the need for repairs and will ensure optimal drainage of the site.

Stormwater and melt water cause many problems for owners of areas with dense and heavy clay soils. Capital and temporary structures are destroyed by moisture, garden trees, lawn grass, cultivated plants feel discomfort. Properly constructed drainage in an area with clay soil will become the right decision and protection from troubles. If this is not done, then flooded foundations will freeze and collapse when cold weather sets in. Root system green spaces receive little oxygen necessary for growth, as a result the plants wither and disappear. Drainage of a site on clay soils can be done with your own hands, following the diagram.

Clay soil problems

Clay soil is a big enemy of the foundation of a house and outbuildings, trees and shrubs. The lack of a slope for natural water drainage makes it difficult to carry out agricultural seasonal work and reduces living comfort. Sticky mud makes it impossible to walk around the area or do routine activities. When it rains, the lawn becomes like a swamp, and after drying, the top layer becomes covered with a crust that is difficult to break even gardening tools. On clayey area Vegetables in the beds do not ripen well, and the waterproofing of the foundation gradually deteriorates.

You can determine the level of soil permeability yourself. To do this, dig a hole 0.5 m deep and fill it with water. In an area with good drainage, within a day all the moisture will be absorbed into the ground. If water remains even in small quantities, then a device is needed drainage system. Drainage in a clay area will be an excellent way to remove water. The owners will be able to appreciate its benefits when the soil gradually dries out, and the harvest of the garden and vegetable garden will delight in abundance.

Types of drainage

In areas with clay soil, several types of drainage systems are allowed:

• superficial;
• deep;
• reservoir

Surface drainage is suitable for areas with a slight natural slope. Shallow channels are laid along the surface of the soil. On clay soils, drainage is organized around the perimeter of recreation areas, lawns, buildings, and along paths. Water moves through plastic channels by gravity and is collected in a certain place in a special well. It can be used for watering, cleaning, or taken outside the site.

Do-it-yourself deep drainage of a site on clay soils is carried out if necessary to remove a significant amount of water. It flows through pipelines laid underground. The system includes one or more channels, the depth of which is 0.5 m wide and 1.2 m deep. Drainage pipes lead to a water collector - a well. In large areas, main main channels and additional side lines are located to maximize coverage of areas with stagnant water.

Reservoir drainage is a type of deep drainage, since its parts are located at great depths. The canal system is designed to drain water that constantly approaches the foundation of the building. Pipe installation is carried out at the lowest point of the foundation. Water leaves through drainage pipes located around the perimeter.

Drainage scheme and device

The drainage scheme for a site on clay soils is determined taking into account the area and amount of moisture, including high groundwater, snow, and precipitation. An inexpensive option for the device is considered surface drainage, and requiring financial investments and execution construction work- buried. Combining the two systems in clay areas will increase the quality and time of soil drainage. A site drainage diagram and engineering calculations are drawn up to carry out work over a large area. Arrangement of drainage for small plots does not require drawing up a plan, but it is important to take into account landscape features.

The canal system consists of a central drainage system and additional side branches. The distance between auxiliary routes is at least 10 meters; they enter the main highway at an acute angle. The diameter of the central pipe is 100 mm, additional 500-650 mm. Water is collected in a well with a drainage pump, in a pond, reservoir, and canals along the road.

The question of how to make drainage in a clay area is asked by the owners of their own houses and cottages. Work begins with excavation of the soil; a natural slope is arranged on a flat landscape. The depth of the channels ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 meters. Sand 15 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the side and main ditches, compacted, and crushed stone or expanded clay is poured on top.

Perforated plastic pipes, wrapped in geotextile fabric. Crosses and tees are used for connections. The pipes are covered on top with crushed stone, a layer of sand, and excavated soil; the thickness of the layer is at least 15 cm. Water flows into a concrete or plastic well by gravity, and a drainage pump is used to remove excess from the sump.

For supporting efficient work The drainage system requires periodic inspection and cleaning of wells. With the help of manual cleaning, order is restored to open drainage systems. Full-scale cleaning is carried out by specialists using cleaning tools and pneumatic units.

Nature does not always arrange everything the way we would like. Sometimes these can be significant problems, one of which is flooding of the land personal plot after melting snow, heavy rain, or it may be a geological feature of the area. There can only be one solution here - drain the site with your own hands, taking into account clay soils.

This is a labor-intensive task, but skillfully made calculations of such a system, taking into account all the features, will make it as efficient as possible and at minimal cost.

First you need to determine the type of soil on the site: if its permeability is high, then drainage may not be required. The situation is different with clay soil. It almost does not allow moisture to pass through, and therefore takes a very long time to dry. The discomfort is obvious - the site is like a swamp: it is impossible to walk, there is dirt everywhere, and there is nothing to think about gardening.

There are two types of drainage according to the method of construction: superficial and in-depth.

How to drain a clay area

1. Surface drainage

In this case, you will need to make shallow trenches, after which you will need to install special trays in them and cover them with mesh. At first glance, everything is simple. But here you need to know some design nuances. For a small area you can do without serious calculations: just imagine the system in general outline. However, for large plots you will need a site plan to scale, with all buildings and details indicated.

We use a natural slope (possibly using a level) and begin to draw a plan for the future system on paper:

The main drainage system is the main canal. Its direction is across the entire area from the highest mark down to the water collection point. On a flat area, this direction is chosen arbitrarily.

Then we design additional drains and connect them all to the main canal (the pattern resembles a herringbone). We make the distance between each drain about 10 m.

It is possible to make a combined system with the arrangement of fast intermediate water collection points at the ends of each “branch” and at the beginning of the main canal.

The more difficult matter will be to decide where will he go water eventually. As an example this could be:

• a ditch on the side of the road near the adjacent road;
• underground water intake well with pump;
• artificial decorative swamp on the site;
• water tank for household needs.

The installation of drainage on the site will also be useful in the future management of the country house: it is very good to use settled water for watering plants during dry periods.

2. Deep drainage

Here you need to dig trenches 1-1.3 m deep and up to 0.4 m wide. The following materials will be required for the arrangement:

• special pipes (drains) and trays;
• geotextiles;
• crushed stone;
• connecting elements.

And the tool:

• shovels (bayonet, shovel);
• wheelbarrows for removing soil and adding crushed stone;
• level for determining the level;
• saw for cutting pipes.

The scheme of buried drainage is the same as that of surface drainage. The only difference is that drainage channels They dig in and make the area level.

After the ditches are filled with crushed stone, the geofabric, trays and pipes are laid, there is no need to rush to fill the entire structure with earth. Drainage needs to be tested. You need to wait for a rainstorm or do it artificially using a pump, hose and sufficient water pressure. If the threads pass through the entire system from start to finish correctly, then the test can be considered passed. If water stagnates in any places, then the system needs to be modified with additional channels.

Additional ditches adjacent to the main canal should be made in parallel at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The denser the soil, the shorter the interval. A trench is dug perpendicularly from the lower end of the main canal to drain water to other additional points.

The slope in the in-depth system is made at least 1 cm deep per 1 m of length. Perhaps more, this will depend on the totality of additional stacks: the more there are, the greater the slope angle is needed for the lower channel so that drainage is more intense. The slope can be controlled more accurately using a building level.

Features of the clay area

Clay soils are heavy, dry out slowly, and are quite difficult to cultivate. There is not enough air in them. They are colder than other soils and plant growth is difficult on them. After precipitation, a crust forms. If soil is too heavy, plant roots cannot penetrate deeply. But not everything is so sad, there is also a positive side: such soils are much richer than sandy ones.

All drainage features on such soils are interpreted, first of all, rational use water. In order to successfully engage in crop production on a site located on loamy soils, some additions are needed.

Before arranging drainage, the soil must be loosened and crushed stone, crushed brick, sand or fine gravel added. Lay the top layer with black soil. After sanding, the soil becomes suitable for processing. Now there will be no excess moisture at the level of plant roots. And the water that has reached deep into the impermeable clay will go into drainage channels.

Excess water in a clayey area occurs not only during spring floods, but also becomes relevant during summer thunderstorms. Even with light rain, puddles form on clay soil. Therefore, when doing drainage in a summer cottage, you need to prepare a storm sewer with large wells and collectors in advance so that water does not accumulate, but passes freely even with a strong flow.

Which type of drainage is better?

Considering the complexity of arranging in-depth drainage, it is cheaper to make surface drainage. However, hidden gutters make the landscape of the site not only more beautiful, but also more practical.

• If you have to travel around the site with any kind of transport, then collisions with open channels will lead to the fact that over time they will need to be redone.
• Flat areas make it easier to do vegetable growing and gardening.
• Hidden drains will make it possible to build additional buildings in the future.

If such intentions are not expected in the future, then open drainage will not become a hindrance, and it can be formalized in original style landscape design. The practical side is also obvious: such a system is easier to clean.

As you can see, both types of drainage are good in their own way. Preferences will depend on individual needs, aesthetic considerations and available funds.

The drainage system, if it is designed correctly and built with high quality, will serve regularly for many decades without any adjustments or repairs, and will provide complete comfort of life in country house. For more information on how to make site drainage with your own hands, we recommend watching the video.

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Features of clay soils

After purchasing a plot of land, it is recommended to determine its soil type. If there are chernozem or sandy soils in a given area, this greatly simplifies the task for avid gardeners and builders who are busy building a new house. But what if the soil on the site is clayey? In this case, the owner will face a lot of problems. And they will begin with the discomfort that sticky dirt causes, and will end with serious economic damage. So, first of all, the lawn located near the house will suffer. When the clay dries, it will turn into a hard crust and will be difficult to loosen. This will lead to the fact that the grass planted on the lawn will begin to wither and will certainly dry out. Well, if there comes a period of prolonged downpours, the lawn will turn into some kind of swamp. This will lead to rotting of the root system of the plants located on it.

“>This problem is even more aggravated if groundwater flows close to the surface of such soil. In this case, the clay retains its moisture almost constantly, drying out only on the hottest days of summer. Wet soil is dangerous and winter period. After all, it leads to freezing of the soil to a great depth, which contributes to the destruction of wet foundations and the destruction of berry gardens and gardens. Anyone who wants to protect their site from such problems should do the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils.

Preparatory work

Where should you start draining a site with your own hands on clay soils? First of all, you need to carefully examine the area. At the same time, it is important to pay attention Special attention on some important points:

• the quality and structure of the soil, that is, the presence and depth of clay layers;
• the presence of a source that increases the degree of moisture, which can be either groundwater or frequent precipitation;
• selecting the type of drainage system suitable for the existing conditions or taking comprehensive measures;
• preparation of a diagram or drainage plan, which reflects the order of location of the necessary trenches and wells (the diagram must indicate such parameters as the dimensions of all elements of the system, the depth of soil drainage, as well as the relative slope of the structure).

How to determine the quality and structure of the soil? To do this, it is enough to use a permeability test. It is very simple, and its implementation will not cause any particular difficulties. You just need to dig a small hole, approximately 60 cm deep, and then fill it with water. The result of this test can be obtained only after a day. If during this time the water is completely absorbed into the soil, then there are no problems with its drainage on the site. You can safely engage in economic activities and build a house on it without installing a drainage system. But if the water in the pit is retained at least partially, then in this case a system for removing moisture must certainly be built.

After the preliminary work stage is completed, it is necessary to begin the specific actions that are necessary in order to drain the site with your own hands on clay soils. However, before implementing your plans, you should carefully study existing species similar systems. This will allow the project to be completed with maximum efficiency.

Types of water drainage systems

How to properly make drainage in an area with clay soil? To do this, you need to decide on its type. Such drainage systems are classified into surface, deep and reservoir. Sometimes, to increase the efficiency of water drainage from clayey areas, a complex method is used. It involves the simultaneous use of several drainage schemes. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Surface drainage

This water drainage scheme involves making only small penetrations into the ground. Surface site drainage is usually used in areas with a slight natural slope. From an extensive network of such shallow channels, water is removed almost by gravity.

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How to properly make drainage on a site, if it is enough to do surface diagram? In such cases, trenches are laid along pedestrian paths, around lawns, along the perimeter of the foundations of buildings, near recreation areas, as well as in other similar places.

The surface drainage pattern of a site on clay soils in some cases consists of branched networks of drainage trays. In this case, moisture is removed through plastic or concrete gutters and collected in special wells designed for this purpose. Then the water can either be used for household purposes or taken to a disposal site.

Surface or open site drainage is the cheapest in the device.

Deep systems

How to drain a site on clay soil if a large volume of water is required? In such cases, it is necessary to construct a deep system. This is a network of trenches located at a considerable distance from the soil surface, in which drainage pipes are located that direct moisture to drainage wells.

The deep drainage of the site consists of several main canals. They are dug to a depth of 1.2 m. The width of such channels is 0.5 m. They are directed towards the catchment area. However, this is far from Full description schemes for deep drainage of a clayey area. The main canals require the installation of a whole network of drainage trays that are auxiliary for their purpose. They can be replaced with small trenches. Such a scheme will allow collecting sediment water from the entire territory.

“>When arranging deep drainage, it is necessary to adhere to one important parameter. This is the permissible distance that is important to maintain between elements called drains. Under normal conditions, this parameter should not exceed eleven meters. But exact value the permissible distance is chosen depending on the depth of the trenches and the quality of the soil.

Compared to surface drainage, deep drainage is a more expensive structure. After all, to create it you will need to use special pipes and geotextile fabrics.

Reservoir systems

This type of drainage system is a type of deep drainage. All elements of the reservoir system are located at a considerable distance from the soil surface.

Such drainage is used when it is necessary to drain water that constantly accumulates around the foundation of a house or other structures located on the site.

How is reservoir drainage performed? For its construction, work is underway to develop an extensive network of ditches located below the level of the heel of the foundation along its base. A layer of crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the ditches. It is through them that water is drained into special perforated pipe channels located around the perimeter of the building. As you can see, such a scheme is quite complex. That is why its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the foundation itself.

Tools

What is needed in order to begin the immediate implementation of a plan to remove moisture from the site?

To do this you will need the following working tools:

• shovels for digging trenches;
• building level, which will be needed when forming the required angle of inclination;
• a manual device (wheelbarrow) on which materials will be delivered to the work site and earth will be removed;
• drilling and cutting tools necessary for processing and cutting plastic pipes;
• twine for marking the system.

Construction material

To install a drainage system in a clay area you will need:

• textile fabric, which will be used to filter water entering the drainage system;
• a certain amount of sand and crushed stone intended for the construction of a pillow;
• concrete or plastic channels that will provide surface drainage;
• a set of plastic perforated pipes, the diameter of which ranges from 100 to 110 mm, necessary for deep drainage;
• elements of finished drainage wells or their components;
• a set that includes connecting elements for pipes.

Organization of the surface system

Open drainage can be tray or backfill. But in both cases, such installation is carried out after marking the area for drainage and installing a water intake well in its lowest part. Next, trenches should be dug along the perimeter of the work site. Their slope should be approximately thirty degrees and directed towards the water intake. The drainage depth on the site is 50 cm. Trenches are dug with a width of 0.5 to 0.6 m and lead to a common ditch, which goes directly to the drainage basin.

Backfill drainage

With this type of drainage, fine sand is used after preliminary work has been done. It is laid out on the bottom of the trenches in a layer of 10 cm and carefully compacted. After this, the ditches are laid with geotextiles and filled 2/3 with large crushed stone and 1/3 with small crushed stone. The system is covered with turf at the top.

Tray drainage

When arranging it, a ten-centimeter layer of fine crushed stone is laid on the bottom of the dug trenches. Next, this material is poured with cement and immediately prepared pre-prepared plastic or concrete trays are installed, at the end of which sand traps are fixed.

Closing such a system decorative grilles high strength.

Deep drainage system

If it is necessary to drain the area with high level groundwater, then the algorithm for its organization will consist of the following actions:

1. First of all, you need to mark the area and choose the most suitable place to place the water intake. And only after this, ditches are dug at the working site, the depth of which is from 100 to 120 cm, and the width is 0.5 m. Drainage is carried out on an area with a slope of 30 degrees.
2. Fill the trenches, and then compact a layer of sand, the thickness of which is 10 cm.
3. Place pre-prepared geotextiles in the ditches so that the material covers their walls and extends onto the sides.
4. Pour a 15-centimeter layer of fine crushed stone onto the geofabric.
5. Lay plastic pipes on top of the crushed stone. They should be perforated down. Next, the pipes are connected with fittings and couplings. There should be inspection wells at the turns of the resulting drainage mains. They are installed above the ground.
6. After this, the pipes are covered with fine crushed stone and covered with the free edges of geotextile.
7. Next, the trenches are covered with sand and soil.
8. Drainage pipes must be directed to the water intake. Its function can be performed by any plastic container or a well dug with your own hands, fixed with reinforced concrete rings.

Optional equipment

For more efficient operation of the drainage system, special pumps, inspection wells and heating cables can be installed. What is their purpose?

Thus, drainage of an area with a high groundwater level will be greatly facilitated by a pump specially installed for this purpose. After all, if the water collection point is located below the place where moisture accumulates, its removal will be complicated. Forced movement of water will solve the problem.

The need for inspection wells arises when the drainage system becomes silted or clogged with foreign objects.

The use of heating cables will prevent freezing of the drainage system in winter.

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Features of the territory with a predominance of clay soil

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils is usually necessary because such areas are characterized by excessive stagnation of water. At the same time, the roots of plants are constantly exposed to moisture, and air does not flow there in the required volume. This sooner or later becomes the cause of oxygen starvation, while cultivated plants can no longer develop normally and, in the end, die. This phenomenon especially concerns lawns, which suffer not only from excess moisture, but also because the turf is quite dense, because it is not loosened even from time to time and is not plowed. This leads to the fact that the dense layer located on top prevents the plants from being fully saturated with air.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils should be arranged before you plant a lawn or various crops. You will then be able to use the site immediately after the winter season comes to an end, which is accompanied by the melting of the snow cover.

What site parameters need to be taken into account when designing?

Before a drainage system is installed, as a rule, calculations are made and a design for the future system is drawn up. However, if you have to work with a territory whose area is not too large, then it is not at all necessary to make calculations during design. In this case, the main condition is the need to take into account the main parameters of the system for draining water from the territory. Among them, it is necessary to highlight all the data related to drainage, namely: slope, depth, location according to the plan, spacing between rows, installation of inspection wells, as well as the wellhead. Territory suburban area not in all cases flat, for this reason, if there is even a slight slope of the soil surface, then it should definitely be used.

Application of the terrain features of the territory

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils must be arranged taking into account the slope of the soil surface. If we compare an inclined and flat area, it should be noted that the first one will be somewhat easier to work with. Moreover, in this case, when arranging the drainage system, labor costs will be reduced many times. In this case, it is necessary to carry out work in such a way that closed and open drainages are successfully combined.

In the latter case, during the work process, ditches are used that have an open top. Such a system is also called surface. It will be most effective for draining excess water into warm period year, it is at this time that it falls a large number of precipitation, which causes groundwater levels to rise. You cannot do without this type of drainage even in winter. In a number of latitudes, thaws are quite frequent in winter, which are accompanied by frozen soil that is not able to absorb water, and there is a need to drain liquid from the soil surface. In the cases described, it is absolutely necessary to arrange the drainage of the site with your own hands; how to do this should certainly interest you.

Description of open and closed types of drainage

If you decide to install an open type system, then you need to use a special tile; it has a slight slope, which will effectively remove excess moisture. Through similar system liquid from the roofs of houses and asphalt areas will flow into a closed drainage system, which acts as a leading one. Closed drainage will work as follows: the liquid that comes from the surface of the soil will flow through underground communications, which are shaped and resemble pipes in appearance. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of clay soil, which has significant weight and high density. This indicates the need to loosen it before starting work. During the installation of drains, you will need to bypass areas that are intended for vehicles.

Installation of a closed drainage system

If you decide to arrange the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to do this. Before starting work, it is imperative to determine what type of water intake will be used in this system. Its role can be played, for example, by a natural reservoir; quite often an alternative solution is used, which involves discharging water into an artificially constructed ditch. It must be located near the road. But it may also happen that there are none, and the problem can be solved in several ways, each of them can be implemented independently. There are several options for arranging the outflow of fluid. You can arrange a pond on your own, making it in the form of a pond. However, there is no need to fear that it will end up resembling a small wetland. In addition, you can dig a ditch yourself. It must be made deep and located outside the boundaries of your own site. If you decide to use last option, then it must first be agreed upon with the neighbors.

Alternative drainage option

If you intend to do the drainage of the area with your own hands, you should definitely know how to make the system, otherwise it will not cope with its functions, the plants in the area will die, and the work will have to be done again. The third option for organizing water flow involves digging oversized wells. Their walls must be made vertical, and after filling, the water must be pumped out using a pump. Such manipulations will have to be performed from time to time. For units, the pumping mode can be made automatic.

Carrying out excavation work

Before you make the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands, you first have to dig trenches. They must be located along the perimeter of the suburban area. In this case, the trenches will have to be given such a depth and width that they should not be more than the indicators equal to 1.2 and 0.4 m. After the ditches are prepared, it is necessary to lay pipes in them that are intended to collect water. These ditches, by the way, are called main ditches. Pre-installed pipes must reach the water intake. In order to fill the main channels, it is preferable to use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm. The depth of the main pipelines, when compared with the collecting branches of the system, should be somewhat greater. Must be carried out according to the rules of work, when a site is being drained with its own hands, the advice and manual must be read before starting work. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

Pipe laying

In your work, it is imperative to follow the rules that are prescribed in the regulatory and technical literature. They regulate the need to remove drainage pipelines from the fence. So, the step between the pipeline and the fence should be 0.5 m or more. It is necessary to take into account that the pipeline should also be removed from the blind area of ​​the main building, retreating 1 m from it during installation. The liquid will initially begin to collect in the drainage trenches, only then will it enter the main channels. A whole network of trenches must be created on the territory, the depth and width of which must be 1.2 and 0.35 m, respectively.

The drainage of the area must have a certain slope; a master can easily make the diagram and device with his own hands. Thus, the trench network must be equipped with a slope of 5 cm per meter. The channels should not be very long. If you apply this rule, the drainage system will work properly. It is not recommended to make a less impressive slope, this is due to the fact that the speed of fluid flow will not be as intense as necessary, this will ultimately cause stagnation in a certain area. If you have to work in a clayey area, then the drains should be located at a distance of 10 m from each other.

Checking the system for functionality

The installation of a drainage system on clay soil after trenches have been dug and pipes have been laid in them does not imply immediate closure of the elements. First you need to check the drainage for functionality and effectiveness.

The trench network must remain open for some time. For testing, the most successful option is heavy rainfall. If such an opportunity does not present itself for a long time, then it is simply necessary to let water from the irrigation sludge into the trenches. In this case, you should monitor how quickly the water flow will pass through the system. Correct functioning is indicated by the absence of stagnation in all areas, this is the only way to check the drainage of the area with your own hands, the technology and rules must be known to the master, only then will everything work without stagnation. If there is a need, then at this stage it is necessary to adjust certain parameters that will increase the flow rate.

Solving system functionality problems

If, when checking the system, it was discovered that it is not working efficiently enough, then pipes of a larger diameter can be installed; in addition, the slope can be increased. In some cases, craftsmen create a system that is equipped with a denser network. You can close the system if the drainage of the site is working correctly, features, how to drain the soil - all this is important to find out before the start of work.

The final stage

The system can be closed with geotextiles that can allow water to pass through. Instead, it is permissible to use volumetric filters that perform well when draining clay soils. The most practical for drainage work are plastic pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, the surface of which should be corrugated. The pipes must be connected using tees.

Cost of drainage arrangement

If you decide to drain the site yourself on clay soils, the price of professional installation should certainly interest you. This may help you decide whether to carry out the work yourself or entrust the matter to professionals. So, if you decide to turn to specialists, then the cost of a linear meter of surface drainage will cost 1,300 rubles. Whereas the same amount of work, but on deep drainage, will cost 2,400 rubles.

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Clay is a serious problem for gardeners

Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of the greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area; water will destroy everything.

Earth with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the foundation of a building under constant exposure to water.

Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then a drainage system will have to be installed. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house risks drowning in the mud.

How to determine whether the soil is clay or not

It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate research, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. An option is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil on top seems to be good, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further into the soil.

Only the degree of permeability of the earth can be approximately determined. To do this, just dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the area can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to be drained.

Draining a clay area with your own hands

There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:

1. Using a surface drainage system from trays.
2. Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow you to divert only melted and rainwater. Only a buried system can cope with the moisture that is already in the soil.

Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. You can now purchase the entire set of various system elements from cross-linked polyethylene storm sewer, all that remains is to put them together.

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best purchased from cross-linked polyethylene. It tolerates frosts calmly and does not crack during frosts.

The choice of drainage type depends on:

• the owner’s financial capabilities;
• area and relief of the land plot;
• estimated precipitation volumes;
• soil structures at different depths.

In any case, you first need to prepare a design plan for the drainage system based on the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What is needed to build a water drainage system

To drain an area with clay soil, you will need the following tools:

1. Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
2. Garden wheelbarrow.
3. A hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
4. Twine cord for marking.
5. Construction bubble level

You should also stock up in advance:

• fine gravel with sand;
• pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
• geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
• pipe fittings;
• gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
• factory-assembled well structures.

Installation of surface drainage

Open drainage on clay soil is the easiest to do. If the groundwater lies deep enough, then it is quite enough to drain the local area. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.

A system of collecting and discharging water trays for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site, where a septic tank or infiltrator is installed. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or a street storm drain.

The main thing when planning a drainage system is to make maximum use of the terrain of the site. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.

Installation of surface drainage in a clay area is carried out in five stages:

1. Digging trenches according to the designed pattern up to half a meter deep.
2. Filling the bottom of the ditches with a sand and gravel cushion 15–20 cm thick.
3. Laying trays at a slope of 2–5 degrees to the water intake.
4. Covering storm gutters from leaves and debris with metal gratings.
5. Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.

After completing all the work, all that remains is to check the functionality of the storm drain by running water into it from a hose.

Deep drainage device

A buried drainage system is formed from a main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main line can be made alone - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it in a herringbone pattern. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.

To lay pipelines, you need trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep (depending on the groundwater level and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter cushion of sand and crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.

Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with crushed stone and covered with geofabric on top. Eventually drainage pipe with perforation should be placed in gravel on all sides and wrapped around with geotextile.

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay soils will quickly clog. Needle-punched geofabric is an essential element of deep drainage in a clayey area.

When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, in addition to the usual non-woven fabric, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber to wrap the pipes. Drains with them are sold ready for installation.

Inspection and storage wells can be made from:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete;
• plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and septic tanks from a similar material. It’s easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

The combination of deep and surface drainage systems is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been tested over years of practice. Its installation is simple, and seasonal inspections and washings are sufficient as part of the maintenance. But it is better to entrust the design of the drainage system to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the laying depth, slope, and diameter of pipes.

The accumulation of melt or sediment water on the site leads to many unpleasant consequences. To solve this problem, drainage structures are used, the functionality of which is especially important for clay soil that does not conduct moisture well. Step by step guide For instructions on installing a drainage system with your own hands, read below.

Drainage for clay soil

Before organizing drainage in an area with clay soil, it is important to know the characteristics of such soil. A small test is carried out first. To do this, you need to dig a hole about 60 cm deep and pour 6-7 buckets of water into it. If after a day the moisture is absorbed into the soil without a trace, then the area does not need a complex drainage system. In this case, storm water or backfill drainage is sufficient. Clay soil will not completely absorb water and therefore the site requires more careful arrangement.

As a result of the fact that clay does not conduct moisture well, accumulations of water and puddles form in the upper layers of the soil. Excessive humidity leads to the destruction of building foundations, the death of plants and the creation of an overly humid atmosphere in the area. Therefore, drainage is necessary and allows you to dry clay soil, preventing unpleasant consequences.

To organize drainage, factors such as:

• the amount of incoming moisture in the form of precipitation, melt water, automatic watering, etc.;
• area of ​​territory in need of drainage;
• financial capabilities that determine the type and quality of materials used for drainage.

The combination of buried and surface drainage allows you to dry the soil, providing normal conditions for plants and preserving buildings. At the same time, the buried option involves digging deep ditches, using pipes, crushed stone, geotextiles, and constructing a well for drainage water. All this requires financial costs and requires careful calculation of parameters.

Surface drainage consists of shallow channels that are directed towards the well to collect water. The recesses are covered with gratings on top and are easy to use. The system of such ditches does not require the use of pipes, since special material is laid at the bottom of the trenches. Thanks to this, moisture is transported into the well rather than remaining on the clay soil.

The combination of surface and buried systems is optimal for clay soil. Each option requires the development of a diagram indicating the location of ditches, wells and other elements. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sequence of installation stages, because drainage must perform its function quickly and efficiently.

Drainage device

To drain clay soil, surface and buried drainage is used. The first option can be a tray type or with a sand cushion. In any case, trenches are dug towards the well to collect water. The width of the ditches can be about 30 cm, and the depth up to 50 cm. At the same time, a slight uniform slope towards the well is maintained. For areas with a natural slope this is not necessary.

For a tray surface system, special boxes or plastic trays are installed in the trenches, through which water will be transported to the well. In the case of a sand cushion, you need to pour a small layer of sand onto the bottom of the ditches, the size of which is slightly larger than with the tray method, then crushed stone almost to the edges of the recess. You can pour multi-colored gravel on top or lay a layer of turf.

Buried drainage involves the creation of ditches in which a layer of crushed stone, drainage pipes, and geotextiles are laid. In a designated area, a well is installed in a recess to collect water, pipes are laid in the trenches on a layer of sand and geotextile, and then crushed stone is poured and the edges of the sheet are wrapped. The well should be located at the extreme point of the site, and all ditches should be directed towards it.

Drainage scheme

Before starting work on creating drainage, you should mark the location of all elements of the system on the site plan. The well should be placed in the far corner, the ditches run along the perimeter of the house or other buildings, connect into one trench and lead to the well. When planning a deep system, it is worth considering that pipes cannot be laid in clay soil where heavy equipment and cars are driven. As a result, the soil will sag and damage drainage. That's why the best option is surface drying that promotes rapid removal of moisture.

The diagram indicates the direction of each trench, as well as the slope of the ditches. If the site is located on a slope, then it is enough to simply dig ditches of the same depth all the way to the well. On a flat surface, the slope is calculated taking into account the standards.

The slope of the pipes is indicated by fractions, which are difficult for an ignorant person to understand. For example, 0.007 or 0.02. In fact, these numbers mean the ratio of the desired slope of the pipe to its length, expressed in meters. If you need to set a slope of 0.007, this means that for 1 linear m of pipe the height difference should be 7 mm. And if the slope is 0.02, then on one meter the height difference will be 2 cm. This difference in slopes results from the fact that for pipes different diameters different minimum slopes are required. And what larger diameter, the smaller the slope. For example, pipes with a diameter of 9–11 cm are always used for drainage drains. Minimum slope for them is 0.02. This means that the slope of each meter of drain must be at least 2 cm.

After calculating all the parameters, materials are selected and the drying unit is installed. For surface drainage, plastic trays are used, which are installed taking into account the required slope and direction.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils - step-by-step instructions for installing various systems

Surface drainage can be organized with your own hands using a diagram and selecting materials. A simple system consisting of trays, a well and other elements will ensure timely removal of moisture. Surface drainage is supplemented with deep or backfill drainage, which enhances the efficiency of drainage.

Deep drainage: step-by-step instructions

To create deep drainage you will need pipes. For the main line, elements with a diameter of 110 mm are used, and for additional ditches, pipes with a diameter of 60 mm are optimal. The well is constructed from concrete rings or a special polymer container is inserted into the recess. Crushed stone of fraction 20–40, coarse sand, and geotextiles are also necessary to create a drainage complex.

The work package includes the following actions:

1. For a well, you should dig a hole, the depth of which is 2–3 m. Concrete rings install from the very bottom. The finished container is mounted in the same way. Sand is poured at the bottom in a layer of 20 cm, and then crushed stone at a depth of 30 cm. There must be holes in the rings or walls of the finished container for incoming pipes. The height of their location is equal to the depth of the pipes in the ditches, that is, about 100 cm from the top edge.
2. Next you need to dig trenches according to the diagram. Their width is 50 cm, and their depth is 120 cm in the main highway and 100 cm in the side ones. The main channels reach the well, with a slope of 5 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe length. You need to pour sand in a layer of about 20 cm at the bottom of the ditches, and then lay geotextiles. The edges of the canvas should be higher than the edges of the pit. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 20 cm, perforated pipes are laid, observing the slope.
3. The pipes are connected to each other using coupling or socket joints. In the area of ​​turns and on straight sections, inspection wells must be installed every 25 cm. The height of such elements should ensure their elevation above the soil level. Inspection wells are necessary to monitor the condition and clean the system.
4. Crushed stone must be poured onto the pipes so that the filter material completely covers them. Next, the geotextile is wrapped. The remaining space in the trench is filled with sand, and a layer of turf or decorative gravel is laid on top.

Installation of surface drainage

Deep drainage is designed to remove moisture from the soil, and the surface system prevents stagnation of water in top layer clay soil. Rain moisture or melt water is immediately discharged into the well, transported through special gutters. This allows you to remove water from the roof of buildings and avoid the appearance of puddles in areas with clay soil.

For a surface system, you need to mark on the site plan the direction of the ditches that should lead to the well. The slope is the same as for deep drainage. The following steps are followed:

1. According to the scheme, small trenches are dug, which are well compacted. It is necessary to observe the slope of the ditches towards the well or catch basins. If the site has a natural slope, then the depth of the channels may be the same. The depth of the trenches is up to 80 cm, and their width is 40 cm.
2. Sand is poured into the bottom of the trenches in a layer of 10 cm, and then the same amount of crushed stone of fraction 20–40. Next, you need to pour a concrete solution onto the filter material and immediately install trays for removing water.
3. Sand traps should be installed at the end of each line of gutters using the same installation method as for gutters. Storm water inlets under drainpipes buildings are installed using the same method. All parts are well connected to each other, forming a single system. Next, the trays need to be covered on top with special grilles.

Drainage operation

Proper organization of any type of drainage system is the key to comfort in an area with clay soils. Quick removal of moisture after rain avoids the formation of puddles, high humidity air and destruction of the foundation of buildings. And drainage is also practical in areas where there are plants that do not tolerate stagnant water. In this case, drainage ditches should be provided around these plants.

During the operation of deep and surface versions of the systems, it is necessary to regularly clean them of debris, leaves, grass and sand. This helps maintain efficient drainage. You also need to take into account the following operating features:

• inspection wells and sand traps must be regularly cleaned of contamination;
• damage to buried pipes requires their timely replacement;
• Before completing the installation of the structure, you need to check it by pouring several buckets of water into the pipes or trays. Moisture should quickly enter the main well;
• In clayey soil, pipes cannot be laid in areas subject to heavy loads.

To create drainage with your own hands, you should use only high-quality pipes and trays, durable geotextiles, medium-fraction crushed stone and coarse sand. It is important to carefully fix coupling and other connections to avoid moisture leakage in the wrong place.

Video: how to make a storm drain

For a site on clay soil, a drainage system is necessary, as it eliminates excess moisture. In this case, clayey soil can settle, which requires careful development of the pipe layout.