Paths in the garden made of old brick. How to make a brick path with your own hands? Filling joints with sand

With proper use of the material and compliance with laying technology, the path from broken bricks can serve not only as a functional element of a country house exterior. A neatly paved path made from waste products allows you to effectively emphasize the style of the garden complex and improve the visual perception of the space.

The key advantages of using waste construction resources are:

ease of installation. Paving garden sidewalks and paths from brick fragments requires only basic knowledge of working with the material and a simple set of tools;
product availability. A waste resource allows you to save a considerable amount on the preparation of materials;
the possibility of recycling construction waste with significant benefits for the budget. That is, there is no need to remove broken remains of products to clean the area.

Among the disadvantages of using leftover building materials, the need for additional processing to extend service life is noted. Moreover, this does not apply to clinker bricks, which have high performance characteristics.

Broken brick is an excellent material for arranging garden paths

How to use broken bricks

When planning how to use broken bricks in the country, home craftsmen find interesting solutions, such as:

paving beautiful garden sidewalks;
creating borders;
design of flower beds and raised beds.

Also, when deciding how to use broken bricks, it is recommended to use recycled material in the construction of gabions and arranging the foundations for alpine slides. Most gardeners are interested in decorating tall vegetable beds, the design of which provides for the formation of a powerful drainage layer, where different-sized fragments of combat can also be effectively used. Using waste products, it is easy to build high-quality drainage when planting trees and shrubs.

As experienced tilers note, the use of unsightly material can yield quite original results. For example, from a product unsuitable for construction, you can make a path border by placing the specimens on the edge at an angle of 45°. To obtain a unique masterpiece in the form of a garden path with an original masonry pattern, you can organize a composition of broken stones and whole bricks.

How to make a path from broken bricks: stages of work

In order for the end result to please you with decent decorative and functional characteristics, you should adhere to the technology of paving garden paths.

Planning

When planning a brick path with your own hands, consider the following points:

the width of the path is chosen so that two people can walk along it freely;
the distance between the object being designed and the trees is at least 2 meters, otherwise the growing roots of the plantings may eventually lead to the destruction of the base of the structure.

Tools and materials

When building a garden path, you will need the following tools and accessories:

tape measure, pegs and cord for marking;
shovel - bayonet and shovel;
tamping tool;
hammer - rubber and regular;
usually trowel, brush;
container for preparing the solution.

To process uneven edges of broken products, you will need a grinder with a diamond blade.

In addition to the main building materials, you should take care of the availability of:

sand and crushed stone of the middle fraction;
Portland cement grade 400;
geotextiles.

It's also worth having on hand garden wheelbarrow for moving materials, a hose for final surface treatment with water.

Preparing the base

When deciding how to make a road from broken bricks when organizing a country landscape, perform the following algorithm for preparing the foundation:

along the marking line it is necessary to remove the top soil to a depth of 20-25 cm;
the trench is sprinkled with a leveling layer of sand 2-3 cm thick and compacted;
the entire surface of the trench is covered with geotextiles;
the non-woven fabric is covered with a layer of sand 2-3 cm thick;
next comes drainage layer made of crushed stone 10 cm thick;
Then the drainage is covered with sand and a second layer of geotextile is laid.

It is worth considering that a layer of sand between the geotextile and crushed stone helps prevent deformation of the waterproofing sheet by the sharp edges of the pebbles.

Forming a border

The perimeter of the trench is decorated with a border. Here you can use a concrete solution or plastic products. It is also important to use a brick border, laying it on the edge. The curb structure is fastened in different ways: using cement mortar, steel reinforcing elements or other convenient means. After the border is formed, a dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto the geotextile and the composition is leveled using a rule taking into account water drainage from the surface.

Brick laying

When paving a garden path, one of the simple masonry options is used, including:

classic spoon dressing in the form of a longitudinal pattern;
herringbone pattern at different angles;
“braid” single or double;
alternating horizontal lines with vertical ones.

Broken bricks according to the selected pattern are laid on a prepared cement-sand surface:

when laying, stones are tapped with a rubber hammer for better fit;
sagging specimens need to be lifted by adding sand under them;
after laying the material, pour a little onto the surface cement-sand mixture;
Then, using a brush, sweep the compound to fill the seams.

At the end installation work the surface is spilled with water to compact and set the seams.

Final processing

The last installation points, including filling the joints with cement-sand composition and water treatments, must be repeated after 2-3 days, when the cement has set well.

Practical tips for long-term use of broken brick garden paths:

so that the surface of the sidewalk does not deform under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, the stones are treated with a water repellent or moisture-proof varnish;
if clay brick is used, before installation the material is treated 2 times with a hydrophobic composition by completely immersing the product in liquid and drying it;
The validity period of hydrophobic agents is 5 years; after this period of time, re-treatment of the pavement surface is necessary. The service life of an object is also affected by the level of intensity of operation.

The potential of broken bricks, especially if the material is used in different colors solutions, allows you to create interesting compositions, which is confirmed in the works of masters.

The arrangement and layout of the site involves the creation of paths. Moreover, the requirements for them are quite serious: they must be reliable, comfortable, functional, beautiful and, very preferably, inexpensive. We’ll talk about how to make garden paths with your own hands at low cost in this article.

What to make paths from

The path surface can be hard or loose. To create a hard coating, the following materials are used:

Concrete. Concrete walkways are more than just plain gray tape. In addition, there are dyes and you can decorate it if desired. There are also forms for filling immediately on site. It turns out homemade paving slabs. Another option is to pour small ones yourself. concrete plates the right size, then put them on the bedding. See photos for design examples.
Flagstone. This a natural stone, which was cut into plates. It is laid on a prepared base (more on this later), the gaps are filled with backfill. It turns out beautiful, reliable, non-slip. It’s not for nothing that landscape designers love flagstone paths so much.

Brick. Ordinary ceramic brick- beautiful material, but not for paths. It absorbs moisture, and if it then freezes wet, it breaks into pieces. If you are planning to make a path out of broken bricks, then you can walk on it more or less normally only for a couple of years. Then you'll have to redo it. The resulting cracks will need to be filled with coarse sand or fine crushed stone. Will last much longer on the track clinker brick, but this option cannot be called low-cost: the cost of one piece is from several tens of rubles.
Tree. Such a seemingly unsuitable material, but correct processing it can serve for a long time. Moreover, many hand-made wooden paths can be classified as low-cost. For example, they came up with the idea of using stumps and tree cuts as borders or coverings. They also make flooring from well-treated boards - better than a terrace, but if not, an old floor will do.
Plastic. There are tiles for garden paths made of plastic - polyethylene or polypropylene. It has a square shape and a system of locks that is attached to one another. It can be laid directly on top of the lawn or previously trodden paths in the country house or on a plot of land.
o option - fast and cheap. It can definitely be called “Low Cost”. It is better, of course, to make the filling according to the rules from crushed stone and sand, and lay plastic elements on top. It's a little longer and more expensive. There is also an immodest, but very nice option plastic tiles for paths. There is also “garden parquet”. These are slabs or boards made of wood-polymer composite - WPC (they are in the photo, they look exactly like parquet). This material appeared relatively recently. It looks and feels like wood, but is essentially a mixture of wood flour and polymer. These are very beautiful coatings, but their cost is by no means modest. Although not fabulous.
Pebbles. It's rounded natural stones, which can be found on the banks of rivers or lakes. Flatter stones are more suitable for making paths. There are different shades gray, black, white, sometimes you can find burgundy. These stones, laid close to each other, create amazingly beautiful mosaic paths. But this is an activity for the diligent and persistent. Those who lack patience can find large flat boulders or large pebbles and place them in the sand. It's not as luxurious, but no less reliable. You can do the same with granite or other similar stones. It is important that at least one edge is relatively flat. You put this flat part up, and bury the rest. The work is not easy, but you can not only walk on the path, but also drive.
Available materials. Country paths made from old tires and bottles.

There are also paved paths: gravel or crushed stone. Their peculiarity is that with a small layer of 2-3 cm and sufficient compaction, it is comfortable to walk on them. If the layer is slightly larger, unevenness will form when walking, and such walking will be tiring. Therefore, as you have seen in many photographs, gravel and crushed stone are used as backfill, into which rigid elements made of other materials are laid. When done correctly, this is convenient: gravel conducts water well and puddles do not form. For those who don't like it grey colour, we can recommend painting it: many designers do this when organizing rockeries.

Read about the secrets of site planning here.

How to make garden paths with your own hands

It’s not enough to know what you can make garden paths from with your own hands. You also need to know how to make them correctly so that it lasts for more than one season or two. Laying different materials may differ slightly, but there are several rules and actions that are repeated in any technology.

First rule: When laying or shaping the path surface, it is made with a slight slope. If the material allows, a slope of several centimeters is made on both sides of the center. If, for example, it is flooded concrete path, then the slope is formed in one direction - away from the house, if it is nearby. The slope is made towards the lower part of the site if the path is located on a slope.

Second rule: Any coating requires preparation of the base. If you place stones (for example) directly in clay or loam, there will, of course, be benefits - it will definitely be more convenient to walk, but the stones will “silt up” after some time. They will simply trample into clay. When installing a bedding, this will take much more time. And if you add a drainage cushion and a side, water drainage will be even more effective, and everything will look even more beautiful.

Third rule: the level of the path surface should be a couple of centimeters higher than the adjacent area. Then the water will drain quickly, cleaning will be more convenient, and cleaning will be required less often: the eroded soil will not flow either during rains or during watering of flower beds, which are often done along paths.

About how to do beautiful beds read here.

Step-by-step instruction

When making garden paths with your own hands, start with markings. In theory, the dimensions and shape should be marked on your site plan, and the markings should be carried out according to the project. But most often everything is done locally. To make the future path more visible, its contours can first be covered with white sand or something similar. If the shape suits you, you can drive in pegs and stretch twine between them, but you can also work on the backfill.

The turf is removed between the two marks. The depth of the ditch should be about 15-25 cm.
A curb is dug along the edge, if provided.
The bottom of the ditch is leveled by removing roots, stones, and eliminating significant holes or mounds. The bottom is compacted (tamping in the photo below).
Pour a layer of crushed stone of large or medium fraction. To save money, you can fill in broken bricks and other large construction waste. If you have a vibrating plate, great; if not, take something similar to the tool in the photo (you can make it from big log, to which to nail a handle across the saw cut). Use this tool to level the bottom. If you have filled up with garbage, you need to sprinkle a little crushed stone on top and compact it again.
Lay a layer of geotextile on top. Its edges rise flush with the sides or even a little higher. It is better not to skip this layer. It prevents the sand, which is usually poured on top of the crushed stone, from mixing, and prevents the roots of plants from germinating, which destroy the path. A very useful thing.
Sand is poured onto the geotextile. Its layer should be such that the laid coating is slightly higher general level Location on. The sand is first scattered with a shovel, then, evenly distributed, leveled with a rake. Then they are compacted and leveled. To level the sand level, you can use the rule ( construction tool, which is often used when pouring a concrete floor) or simply take a large ruler, a building level, or a straight line. Sometimes you have to pour it in, compact it, and level it several times. It is desirable to achieve an ideal surface.
Stones, pebbles, flagstones, paving stones, bricks, etc. are placed in the sand. They are placed in Right place, then they knock with a rubber mallet: they drive it deep into the sand.

You can place a flower garden or flower bed along a beautiful path. Read how to make them here.

Beautiful DIY pebble path

If with flagstone, paving stones, brick, everything is more or less clear - everyone has already seen more than once how this is done, then how to lay pebbles in patterns is not clear.

Below is a photo report on the process of making a pebble path. It shows the basic techniques: lines are drawn onto leveled sand along which pebbles will be laid out. If these are arcs, they are made using thread and two sticks/nails.

When selecting stones, they are laid out on edge close to each other, slightly buried in the sand.

Place a board on the folded pattern and take rubber mallet and they knock on the board, hammering pebbles into the sand. This is how they deepen the entire pattern, making sure that the edges of the pebbles are at the same height.

Take a mixture of sand and cement (2 parts sand, 1 part cement) and fill the gaps, leveling the layer with a brush.

A fragment of a pebble path is carefully watered with water so that the backfill does not wash away. Wait several hours for the cement to set a little, then remove the excess with a soft brush.

It is important not to miss the moment: the solution should not get dirty, but also become a stone. If you pick at it with your finger, it should crumble. It's time to clean off the excess.

About how to grow green hedge read the article “Fence hedge: how to grow and shape"

Path made of wooden stumps and crushed stone: video

Old logs or trees can be turned into a beautiful path. From being sawed into logs required length, the face cut is sanded, all wood is first treated with a bioprotection compound (you can soak it with waste oil). After drying, dip into Kuzbass varnish and dry again. Then coated with paint desired color the front parts of the stumps - which will protrude outward. They dry it again and only then put it in the sand.

The process is described in detail in the video. Here we explain step by step how to make garden paths from stumps or logs with your own hands.

Making a concrete path yourself

The process is generally similar to that described at the beginning. There are some differences that we'll talk about.

After the trench is dug and the bottom is leveled, formwork is installed along it on both sides. These are boards with a thickness of 25 mm (thicker is possible, thinner is not advisable, you can use plywood 16-18 mm thick, chipboard). Their height is the height of the track. If you are shaping the slope, the boards should be aligned taking it into account - one side is slightly higher, the other is slightly lower.

To make formwork, pegs are driven into the ground at intervals of no more than 60 cm. Boards are nailed to them. It is better to smear the inner surface of the formwork with mining or other oil: so that it can be removed easily. Next, crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted. But compaction must be done carefully: if you walk along the bottom, no traces should be visible.

Next, to prevent the path from cracking, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone. The thickness of the rod is 4-6 mm, pitch is 5-10 cm. It is sold in pieces, they need to be tied together with steel wire.

Then, to compensate for the expansion in winter period you need to put wooden planks 1.5-2 cm thick. They are placed across the path, set so that the height of the planks is level with the formwork boards. Compensation strips are installed at least every 2 meters. More often it is possible, less often it is not. Why do it more often? For beauty. Squares look better than long rectangles.

A concrete solution of a grade no lower than M-250 is poured into the finished frame (read about the grades of concrete and its preparation here). For it, take 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone. Everything is mixed into a solution of medium fluidity (thick sour cream) and poured into the formwork. When pouring, you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles left. To remove them, pierce the solution with a pin, shaking it slightly - bayonet it. It is ideal if you have a surface vibrator for concrete - it quickly compacts the solution, creating a perfectly flat surface. If it is not there, you will have to level it using the rule, using the edges of the formwork as beacons.

A few hours later, after the concrete has set, you can treat the surface. You can leave it as is, you can brush it with a stiff brush, making transverse stripes, and finally, you can lay pebbles, stones, flagstone, etc. into the not completely hardened solution. It's not very economical, but it's reliable. After a couple of days, the formwork can be removed, and you can already walk along the path.

What kinds of fences there are and how to make them is written here.

stroychik.ru

Vera Kukushkina 05/17/2014 | 15968

An attractive budget path in a garden plot can be made even from construction waste. It's not difficult at all.

Several years ago I became the happy owner personal plot 8 acres in size and a not fully completed house. I decided to give the site a neater look with the help of interesting garden paths made from construction waste left over after construction was completed.

Small pieces of brick, concrete, granite, plastic packaging from building materials different colors - all this can be used to create paths.

First I thought about it location, shape And material future path. Then I prepared basis for her. This was done to prevent premature “drowning” of the paths into the soil.

It took a lot of work to make the DIY path look decent. First, my husband and I marked the location of the future path and dug it trench 15 cm deep. Next, we filled this dug hole with large slag, pebbles, and sand in a layer of 10-12 cm. Then we poured water over everything and compacted it thoroughly. Then the track fenced with boards, having given it an even shape with their help, the bends were made using dense plastic (it can be bent in any way), then sand was poured in such a way that the path rose above the soil by about 4 cm. Then they began to make it main top part , along which you need to walk. There were no curbs. With them, of course, it is more beautiful, but the flow of water from the path during rainy periods is significantly worse.

Then we prepared concrete, which was used to fill the path. For the pedestrian area in the garden, low-quality, inexpensive concrete and fine fillers were used. We mixed a concrete solution from water, sand, small crushed stone and cement. Next, we filled the formwork made of boards and plastic with a solution and laid out patterns from fragments of stones on it different sizes, pieces of concrete and broken bricks. This gave the path a rather interesting appearance. In addition, it is quite strong and will last for many years.

diy.usadbaonline.ru

Using old bricks: building a garden path with your own hands

To create a garden path, you can make do with recycled material, which is almost always available on the market. summer cottage. Dismantling an old shed, building an outbuilding or renovating a house inevitably leaves behind a lot of surplus that can be useful for building garden paths.

The main material for such structures is the remains of brick. Also, the garden path may include other waste materials left over after construction work or disassembling any object. Create this system It’s not difficult to do it yourself, and the result of the work will be a magnificent coating that can not only provide practicality for moving around the site, but also become its decoration.

How to lay a brick path? The procedure for creating such an object is labor-intensive and responsible, containing many nuances. However, with knowledge of the matter and skillful handling of the tool, creating a path in the country will take a little time. Brick pavement is made in the following steps:

drawing up a construction plan;
site marking;
collection of tools;
preparation of the base;
forming a border;
finishing treatment.

Paths in the country, made of old brick, should be made according to the above scheme. This is the only way to guarantee a durable and durable coating, capable of becoming a decoration for a dacha and serving for many years.

Preparatory work and collection of tools

Do-it-yourself brick country paths are made on the base construction plan, containing a drawing of the future object and its technical characteristics.

At the same time, the plan is of enormous importance, since it is a visual representation of a building that previously existed only in thoughts. Having created detailed drawing, a person imagines how such a sidewalk will look and understands the feasibility of construction on a specific site.

The next step after drawing up a construction plan is marking the area. Typically this is done using wooden posts and the rope connecting them to each other. Demarcation garden plot makes it possible to see the contours of the future brick path, all its bends and turns.

As soon as preparatory work finished, and the future brick garden paths have taken shape with the help of ropes and posts, you can start collecting equipment.

This process is of utmost importance, as it makes it possible to significantly speed up and simplify the work. The following set of tools will help you make a red brick path:

roulette;
pencil;
hacksaw;
rubber hammer;
shovel;
bucket.

Formation of a country sidewalk from bricks and its finishing

What can be done using recycled materials?

Brick paths for a summer residence are one of the most successful and striking objects in which the use of waste material is almost invisible.

The next step is to make the base on which the brick surface will be laid. Using a shovel, you need to dig a hole up to 1 m deep over the entire area of the path. After this, a gravel cushion is formed at its bottom, designed to ensure the drainage of water from the surface. A layer of sand is poured onto the crushed stone and leveled, forming a base for laying brick blocks.

Along the contour of the future red brick path is laid wooden plank, playing the role of a border. Its purpose is conditional, since it should be removed after completion of the work. However, during the construction process it is simply irreplaceable, since it helps to obtain a flat plane.

Directly next to it there is a boundary brick, which is laid on the end. This placement will allow the path at the dacha not to blur and keep its shape.

The blocks themselves are laid between two curbs using a rubber hammer. In this case, each of them is installed adjacent to the other so that the gaps between them are minimal. Their leveling and formation of a monolithic surface is carried out using a rubber hammer. At the end, a layer of sand is poured over the finished red brick plane to fill the cracks and complete the composition of the path.

kubkirpich.ru

Advantages, disadvantages and types used

The main advantages of using bricks for paving pedestrian paths are ease of installation, accessibility and the ability to use leftovers after building a house, including broken fragments.

However, the pavement surface covered wall material under open air, is not durable. After just two or three years, ordinary brick can collapse under the influence of moisture and frost. To avoid this, we can recommend:

treat the stones with a water repellent or waterproof varnish;
use special clinker bricks;
buy imitation paving slabs.

Treatment of ordinary clay brick with a hydrophobic composition must be carried out at least twice with its complete immersion in liquid. This will ensure the brick’s resistance to moisture and increase its frost resistance.

It should be taken into account that the validity period of the water repellent is no more than five years. After this, the surface of the track must be processed again. The service life of the varnish coating is determined by the intensity of use of the brick path.

Brick path diagram.

Clinker brick is practically moisture-proof and therefore almost does not collapse over time. It is more expensive than usual, but a garden path made from it will be durable and more beautiful.

A do-it-yourself brick path can be laid out in the form of:

longitudinal pattern with classic spoon dressing;
alternating vertical and horizontal rows;
“herringbone” at an angle of 45° or 90°;
single or double "braid".

There are more complex patterns, but for DIY styling it is recommended to use these.

Paving methods.

Required materials and tools

In addition to bricks, to build a path you will need sand, medium-fraction crushed stone, PC400 cement and geotextile - a non-woven waterproofing material.

Tool for work:

bayonet and shovel;
hand tamper or tamping machine;
container for mixing the solution and preparing the cement-sand mixture;
measuring tape 5-10 m;
cord for marking;
pegs;
rubber and regular hammer;
construction trowel.

To lay a broken brick path, you may need an angle grinder (grinder) with a diamond wheel to process uneven edges.

Marking

Marking and excavation of soil.

To mark future paths and areas, use pegs, cord and tape measure. They should be kept at least two meters away from trees, as growing roots can cause the foundation to collapse. garden path should be such a width that two people can pass on it without leaving the covering.

The cord on the pegs should not sag much. To do this, keep the distance between them no more than 5 meters. It is recommended to make turns smooth so that a wheelbarrow or cart can turn on them. In places of turns, increase the number of pegs.

Preparing the base and installing the border

Laying geotextiles.

To arrange the base of a brick garden path, it is necessary to remove 20-25 cm of surface soil in accordance with the markings. Sprinkle the bottom of the resulting trench with a layer of sand 2-3 cm thick and compact it well. After this, lay geotextiles along the entire width and length of the path. This will effectively remove moisture downwards, preventing it from reaching the base. In addition, the non-woven fabric will prevent the growth of weeds through the base and brick covering.

Place a layer of sand 2-3 cm thick on top of the geotextile, and 10 cm of crushed stone on top of it and compact it well. Sand is necessary so that the sharp edges of the stones do not tear the canvas. The crushed stone layer will act as drainage to remove incoming moisture and prevent the base of the path from being washed away.

Option using sand base.

The drainage layer should be sprinkled with sand, hiding the crushed stone, and another layer of geotextile should be placed on it. Install a curb along the edges of the path, which can be concrete, plastic or made of brick laid on edge. Fastening the curb material is done with your own hands using cement mortar or stakes made of steel reinforcement driven into the ground.

Next, pour sand or a dry cement-sand mixture onto the geotextile fabric. Compact the surface well and level it using a plaster rule or a flat wooden block, taking into account the drainage of water from the surface after masonry. The dry cement-sand mixture provides increased strength and stability of the coating. For light loads on the pavement, you can use a base of pure river sand.

Brick laying

The paving of the garden path is carried out in accordance with a pre-selected pattern.

The stones are placed on a sandy or cement-sand surface, tapping them lightly with a rubber hammer to set them in place.

The sagging elements need to be removed and a little sand or mixture added under them. Slopes for water drainage are checked using a building level, and a flat surface is checked using a plaster rule or wooden block. If a block is used, leveling can be done by lightly tapping it.

After laying the brick, a little dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto its surface, and then brushed with a brush to fill the joints and the surface is spilled with water.

After 2-3 days, after the cement in the seams has set, this procedure must be repeated.

Finally

A brick garden path is affordable solution for landscaping with your own hands. However, ordinary wall brick requires pre-treatment with hydrophobic materials, which will ensure its protection from the damaging effects of moisture and frost. If you use clinker bricks, no pre-treatment of the material is required.

It is very important to make the base of the path correctly - with the installation of a drainage layer and the laying of geotextiles. In addition, all layers of the base must be well compacted so that in the future, during operation, there is no subsidence and destruction of the surface.

protrotuarnujuplitku.ru

Preparation

In order for brick paths to be laid properly, you should make sure that you have the necessary tools:

Shovels:
- soviet;
- bayonet
Tamping:
- manual;
- gasoline.
Saw.
Measuring tool:
- roulette.
Pegs and thread.
Building level.

To make the work easier, you can take a grinder instead of a saw, and a gasoline one instead of a manual tamper. Sidewalk from brickwork It’s easier to install using an automatic tool. Paths must be level, so it is better to make sure that the building level is correctly calibrated and shows correctly.

It is difficult to imagine a garden plot without neat paths. They divide the area into zones, decorate it and, of course, provide comfortable movement. One of the popular materials for garden paths is brick. So, a DIY brick garden path.

Not every brick is suitable for paving. Conventional solid or silicate ceramic does not tolerate water and repeated freezing and thawing. After a few years, such bricks will begin to crumble and crack. Therefore, it is better to purchase clay paving slabs or waterproof bricks.

There are many options for paving patterns. You can also lay multi-colored bricks.

First, decide on the route and width of the future path. When planning your route, keep in mind that it should not pass close to big trees. Their roots will easily damage it. Minimum distance 60 cm. But the main threat is water. Therefore, plan the path with a slight slope. You can also dig a trench on one or both sides to drain water. Now use pegs and rope to mark your future route.

Next, a layer of sand approximately 5 cm thick is poured. The thickness may be different, it all depends on your area. After this, the sand is spilled with water and compacted. Then, using the guides, we align it.

Now you can lay the bricks. We place it in the desired place and, using a rubber hammer, hammer it in with gentle blows to the required depth. Use a level to check.

If you go too far and drive it too deep, just take out the brick, smooth out the sand and install it again. Another installation option, more reliable, is when the outermost bricks are placed on the end. If you choose this option, start styling with them.

After this comes the stage of filling the seams. To do this, scatter sand along the path and simply mark it with a brush.

Second option for laying bricks

For a more solid version of the path, we lay geotextiles at the bottom of the base. It will prevent plant germination. Another difference is the additional layer of gravel. The thickness of this layer will again depend on your site, its topography, and soil type. Minimum thickness 5 cm, on average it is 10–15 cm.

Landscape design, in addition to beauty, should also bring practicality to the site. Paths in the garden are most likely the most practical solution, which can only be. Convenient access to plants, the ability to move freely around the garden and admire the surrounding beauty. They can be laid out from different material, but brick paths add a special charm to the atmosphere of the garden plot.

The most important thing is that such a track has a low cost, and the effect is amazing. Oddly enough, but laying brick paths is quite a popular phenomenon in many European countries.

Like this, this process is not complicated and everything can be done with your own hands.

Which brick to choose for paths

Most likely you will have to lay out a path in your dacha from existing old bricks. Usually, paving is made of red brick (it is the color that gives that very antique atmosphere). You can also use clinker or sand-lime brick. Perhaps there are construction residues lying somewhere on your summer cottage - broken bricks make chic paths.

Necessary tools for laying a path

To work you need a small list of tools and materials:

Shovel.
Garden wheelbarrow.
Level.
Construction thread.
Rubber hammer.
Tamping.
Cement.
Sand.

Planning the future garden path and preparing for work

Let's decide what you expect from the future track, what functions it should perform. You need to decide on the width of the future coverage. If walks outside the garden are not planned, then a width of up to 1 m will be quite normal, but if the area allows you to walk around the territory not alone, then you can expand it to 1.5 m, or even more.

Don't forget about the slopes - the water should not stagnate and form puddles, but you shouldn't make the slopes too large. The water should leave gradually, and not run in a stream. It is advisable to organize the collection of water in advance, otherwise it may collect at the curbs and wash them away, which can lead to destruction.

As for the location of the path, you should not lay the path too close to growing trees, otherwise their roots may destroy the covering. Also, there is no need to make sharp turns - they should be smooth.

To mark the future path you need to use metal or wooden pegs, as well as thread. Using a thread, adjust the required height of the brick path. If the landscape of the site has already been formed, then most likely it will be necessary to remove the soil. If the soil has not yet been brought to the site and no plants have been planted, then it is enough to clear the working area of weeds.

Preparing the base

Although the paths are not designed for heavy loads, it is still worth treating them responsibly. The base should consist of the following layers, starting from the bottom:

gravel layer (acts as drainage);
sand or sand-cement layer.

Geotextiles allow liquid to pass through from top to bottom, but block any weeds that may try to get out. The ratio of the sand-cement layer is 5 or 4 to 1, respectively. Each layer is carefully compacted. It’s best to use, but if it’s possible, then it’ll do just fine.

How to lay a brick garden path

Brick paving slabs are not so popular for nothing. She has a large number of styling options. And yes, this is a classic! To start laying, you need to decide on a pattern.

It is also advisable to start by installing curbs. Bricks placed at the end or can serve as borders. If the installation of curbs on initial stage causes difficulties (you are afraid not to guess with the size or other options), then you can install them after laying the bricks or install borders only on one side.

The garnet layer is leveled using a level or wooden flat board, and then laying is done on it. You should not place the bricks too close to each other - let there be a small distance between them (about 3 mm).

Final stage

After the brick paths have been laid, you need to carry out finishing work. It is necessary to level the bricks where required, fill everything with sand or light grout and rub all the seams between the bricks. This will secure the bricks into the lock, give strength to the paths and prevent destruction.

A path in the garden and in the country is a trivial attribute. Of course, we want to follow the comfortable and beautiful path that we got cheaper. Why not choose brick? Let's resolve the last doubts together and figure out how to properly make paths with your own hands, including from old material.

Harmony of porch and walkway finishing

Why do we choose brick paths?

Of course, brick garden paths attract us due to their durability, affordability, appearance and ease of installation. In this case, the brick comes into direct competition with paving stones and concrete.

However, the decoration of the building and the surrounding landscape may dictate the use of brick to organize paths.

Another case is if the brick was left over from the construction site and it is convenient to use it for paths in the garden. The third option is when you want to arrange paths in your dacha at a cheaper price, and you have old and broken bricks available.

The best choice is clinker or paving bricks. This material looks presentable and lasts a long time. Ceramic masonry bricks have pores and are destroyed by moisture and frost. However, it can also last a long time proper preparation base and special treatment. Sand-lime brick should be considered as a material for organizing temporary coverings.

Various styling options

The way the brick is laid determines both the design and durability of the walkway. It must be selected before work begins, otherwise it is impossible to calculate the quantity and range of material. We offer for your reference several photos that allow you to capture possible options styling

Curves and steps on brick paths

Installation of bricks with ligation (bricks are laid offset in adjacent rows) can be carried out both along and across the path. An interesting pattern is made of bricks laid in pairs. It is better to make the border of the flooring with a brick placed on edge. Steps on the path are made by installing bricks on the end.

Options for brick coating patterns

Brick can be laid flat or on its side. In the latter case, the work is more difficult, twice as much material will be required, but the track will last longer. Braided and herringbone installations can be done at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees to the curb. All canvas options can be decorated using material of different shades.

Marking and preparing the base

When starting to paving a brick garden path, you need to stock up on the following tools:
In addition to the basic material you will need:

sand;
crushed stone or gravel;
geotextile;
boards 20-25cm wide;
wooden pegs.

When starting to build paths in the yard with your own hands, you should decide on their size and placement. Practice shows that in the garden and dacha, a paving width of 0.8-1 m is sufficient. Paths should not be located closer than 1 m from trees, root system which may be damaged by the coating.

Scheme for laying a brick path

It is convenient to mark the contours of the path with pegs and a cord, or sprinkle it with sand. A ditch is dug 20-25 cm deep. The bottom of the trench is leveled, compacted and the base is prepared in accordance with the given diagram:

A leveling layer of sand 20mm thick is poured, which is covered with geotextile. Geotextile will allow water to pass through upper layers and will not allow the crushed stone to mix with the soil.
A board side is installed, which is fastened with nails to pegs driven into the ground. The upper end of the board coincides with the ground level. The distance between the boards is calculated based on the planned number of elements along the width of the path, taking into account curbs and gaps of 2-3mm. It is advisable to install guides on different sides of the track with a height difference of 10-15mm to ensure water drainage from the surface.
Lay, compact and level a layer of crushed stone about 70mm thick.
Sand 20mm thick is poured on top of the crushed stone and covered with geotextile. The sand will level the crushed stone and the geotextile will not tear.
Fill, compact and level a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5, about 50 mm thick.

It is possible to somewhat simplify the preparation process with some reduction in the quality of the base for the path. In this case, both leveling layers of sand 20mm thick and the middle sheet of geotextile can be eliminated. Instead of a mixture of sand and cement, sand is laid, which is moistened and compacted. Crushed stone can be replaced with gravel.

Brick Laying Guide

Stages of paving a brick path

It is useful to protect ordinary brick from destruction by immersing it in a hydrophobic solution before paving the path. In this case, it makes sense to re-treat the garden path with a water repellent every 4-6 years. As a result of processing, the material does not absorb moisture and becomes frost-resistant. Laying the coating begins with installing the curb. The brick is placed on edge along the board and driven into the sand with a rubber hammer to the level of the top of the guide.

The bricks are laid sequentially in accordance with the planned pattern and driven into the substrate with a mallet. A gap of 2-4mm is left between adjacent elements. The laying plane is controlled by level and rule. After installing the covering, the seams between the bricks are filled with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5 using a brush or broom. The procedure is repeated after the start of use of the track in order to completely fill all the gaps. Upon completion of paving, the boards are pulled out. The resulting void is filled cement mortar or soil that needs to be compacted.

Paving a path from old and broken bricks

Options for battle tracks

By and large, laying old brick is no different from installing new and beautiful ones. However, following the entire technical process will be unnecessary to preserve waste material. In this case, you will still have to dig a ditch 10cm deep and fill it with 5cm of sand. This will allow you to lay out an even canvas and remove some moisture. A board placed on edge will help make the edge of the path even.

Original patterns from unusable bricks

Note that the use of combat can be accurate and original. For example, the curb of a path can be laid out in the old fashioned way with bricks placed on edge at an angle of 45 degrees. It is even more effective to organize a pattern from whole and broken bricks.

Of course, you will have to tinker more, but you can get a unique masterpiece from waste material!

Photos of role models

Possible combinations of brick and stone coverings

When starting any business, it is always useful to evaluate how others have done it. From the above examples, the logic of combining brick with stone clearly follows. The curb carries the greatest load and therefore it is wise to use a more durable one for this purpose. natural material.

Colorful brick paved areas

These shots highlight the potential of brick for paving large areas. In this case, various variations in the shape and color of the coating are possible. The main thing is that the chosen solution fits well into the surrounding landscape. In conclusion, we would like to add that no matter what material you work with, diligence and perseverance will bring the required result.

Let everything work out for you, and we offer a short video to help.