Finishing a house or bathhouse is a long, painstaking process that requires compliance certain rules construction- finishing works. To avoid mistakes, work should be entrusted to professionals who have extensive experience working with different options log cabins

FINISHING OF WOODEN HOUSES - price for 2019

Only after the shrinkage of the log house is completed, it becomes possible to finish the bathhouse or house - inside and outside the building. This process imply the implementation of a considerable number of tasks aimed at improving the quality and durability of the log house.

Of course, you decide for yourself what is paramount to you and what services you could refuse. Carrying out different kinds finishing works, we are ready to offer our clients interior and exterior painting, polishing the frame, frames for windows and doors, insulation wooden houses or baths, log processing protective compounds, as well as other services designed to make the structure stronger, more durable, more beautiful and safer.

We bring to your attention a catalog of houses made of timber. Various configurations and parameters of buildings will allow you to choose the project you like best and complete it turnkey in a short time.

Houses made of timber are different:

Reliability

The high strength and resistance of wood to external influences make timber construction one of the most popular options. To ensure effective thermal insulation and structural rigidity, during construction, profiled timber is used, which has two longitudinal protrusions on the upper mounting plane and two symmetrical grooves on the lower one, and the use interventional insulation made from flax jute eliminates the formation of cracks.

Security

Environmentally friendly materials used in the construction of residential cottages make a log house safe for health. For an additional fee, wood can be treated by impregnation with special anti-flammable and antibacterial compounds.

Speed ​​of construction

The average construction time for a house is 3 weeks (may vary depending on the complexity of the project). Thanks to modern technologies construction, in such a short time it is possible to install a full-fledged foundation and two-story building with a finished roof.

No company can offer better quality and fast construction residential buildings. The price of a house made of timber is determined by the thickness of the walls; we offer 3 options for the thickness of planed timber: 100mm, 150mm and 200mm. as standard rectangular profile, and with a semicircular outer surface, while the cost of a house made from this material does not change. Careful design of timber construction projects allows you to quickly adapt to the features of the landscape.

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Self finishing timber house outside and inside

Wooden houses have always been, are, and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. Log house it is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how to finish a timber house from the inside and outside, and this material is designed for those who are going to decorate the house with their own hands.

Why finish a timber house at all and when can you start work?

Most ordinary people, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house might need exterior and interior decoration. After all, wood itself is a beautiful, self-sufficient material and all that can be done with it is just varnish or paint.

They are partly right, but only if we're talking about about the so-called glued profiled timber. The construction material really very beautiful and comfortable. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried wood impregnated with protective compounds.

In addition, they have grooves (profiles) cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house like a construction set, by the way step-by-step instruction included with such sets. As a result, the owners receive a good-quality house without large cracks or distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, is “biting” and therefore many people, instead of laminated veneer lumber, use ordinary, and not always well-dried, lumber. A ordinary timber, I’ll tell you honestly, it only looks good on an advertising stand in a store, as soon as you put it into the coveted eco-friendly housing, it appearance It's unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from laminated veneer lumber, despite their attractive appearance, often need finishing. In order for the house to be warm, you need to either buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And this is where it comes to the rescue warm finish facade of a timber house.

We've sorted out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made “construction set” made of laminated veneer lumber, then this indicator is minimal. In this case, the overall shrinkage will continue for about 3 years, and finishing can begin in six months, maximum a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not begin before a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be generously “flavored” with various kinds of protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with simple flat timber, which at the time of construction has natural humidity. Such buildings take at least 5 to 7 years to settle. As for the start of finishing work, many craftsmen advise starting it after a year, although I always recommend letting such a house sit for at least a year and a half, or better yet, 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your home from, immediately after construction the box must be covered with a roof and be sure to be treated with protective impregnations, so that while shrinkage occurs the wood does not begin to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing of a timber house

By and large, the same materials that are used for cladding a brick, block or any other structure are used to decorate a log house. But they need to be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How can you get rid of timber house
Types of cladding	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house are completed, otherwise any movements of the base can cause cracks and even peeling. Plaster is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such finishing ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an external cladding option; I personally have not seen it installed from the inside.
Facade facing brick	Everything here is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such cladding will last for at least 50 years. As a rule, between wooden and brick wall insulation is installed. The only limitation may be the foundation; such cladding requires a wide, permanent structure.
Natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases stone finishing wooden buildings from the outside it is limited only by the plinth. Plus a natural stone has a solid mass and needs to be equipped with an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining is a universal material; it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are installed quite simply. In our case, finishing with false timber is best suited; in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining; in some sources it may be called a block house; for a timber house this is the best option.
Varnishing or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, so varnishing or painting is more often used as interior decoration, although in the case of wooden clapboard Such processing can also be carried out externally.
Tile	In this case, tiles are more relevant for internal lining services in the house. From the outside, it can only be used to decorate the basement and porch.
Drywall	Drywall is convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate the outside of a log house. Since our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away; without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All we have left is varnishing and ventilated façade technology. In this case, ventilated facade technology should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It’s not for nothing that I combined all this; the fact is that the instructions in all these cases are similar.

Before you begin finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, this sealant was created specifically for these purposes and no other sealant will fit here.

Ventilated facade technology

In my deep conviction, for beginning craftsmen, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable finishing options wooden house.

This type of façade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finishing cladding and the base, and insulation can fit into this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, there is no need to clean, sand and level them; it is enough to simply caulk and seal the cracks between them. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I believe that this is unnecessary. But protective treatment in this case is mandatory, and there is no need to skimp on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy a composition for biological protection of wood (antiseptic) and a composition for fire protection (fire retardant), take a paint roller or a wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing an old house, then you can impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations from comprehensive protection, now the price for them is reasonable, homemade liquids By folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of homemade products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnations have dried, wooden wall a vapor barrier membrane is attached. In general, it is pressed against the sheathing strips, but for me it’s easier to shoot it with a stapler first, so you can do without helpers. And don’t forget, steam moves from the room to the street; if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (such a fabric always has marks indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next you will need to lay the sheathing on the wall. If on block houses the sheathing is most often made from metal UD and CD profiles, then for wooden walls it is better to use wooden blocks, they are much easier to work with. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the sheathing should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are smooth, it is better to be safe. The first 2 outer bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them and the remaining bars of the sheathing are placed along these cords.
  If the next plank protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a plane, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the planks, it is considered the thicker and stronger finishing, the wider you can take the step, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, under any material, I install the sheathing in increments of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are attached to a vertical sheathing, but under the lining the sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is the diagonal laying of the lining; it is attached to a vertical sheathing. Although I don’t advise you to undertake diagonal installation, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• As insulation for wooden structures usually mineral wool is used. The fact is that wood must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like will cake within 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Nowadays, basalt wool slabs have the highest quality;
• Thickness of cotton insulation for middle zone of our great and mighty homeland varies around 100 mm. Naturally, the further north the region is, the thicker the insulation needs to be;

When cutting cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm larger than the distance between the sheathing guides. This way your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps, between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of humidity, so we attach the so-called wind protection on top, in fact it is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to attach it first with a stapler;
• The counter-lattice strips provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing cladding is attached. For lining, I usually use 30x40 mm bars, there is no point in taking smaller ones, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice, it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Nowadays, any type of lining is installed using clamps, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with screws with wide heads. The panels have special fastening holes, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Rules for wood varnishing

The technique of applying varnish and painting is practically no different. Initially, you will need to thoroughly sand the surface. If the laminated veneer lumber is already well processed, then you will have to tinker with the regular one.

You start processing with coarse sandpaper and gradually work your way up to fine-grained sandpaper. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do this manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include changing the color, then the surface is treated with stain. Next, let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you sand the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

To remove lint, use fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to sand particularly hard; the lint is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp rag.

From experience I can say that one finishing layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes you have to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After sanding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to adhere well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

Regarding the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend acrylic varnishes on a water-dispersed basis, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, they are of course high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and withstands all the vagaries of the weather. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for exterior use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Decorating the house from the inside

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate the inside of a timber house; it all depends on what exactly you are going to cover. Plus, the type of room plays a big role; you must admit, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Cladding the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or a floor attic space. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself in a wooden house can be based on floor joists or installed directly on monolithic iron concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden joists are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be insulated. There is a small nuance here.

If it is better to insulate the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool slabs, then foam plastic is more suitable for the floor and interfloor ceilings. You can, of course, buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I believe that in this particular case, ordinary PSB-S25 foam is more suitable, the effect is the same, and such foam costs at least 2 times less. I usually buy 50mm thick foam boards.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs have been treated with protective impregnations, you need to build a subfloor in their lower part. There are several methods here, I will tell you about the method that I use myself.

First, on the sides of the bottom cut, the logs are packed cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, they will become the base for the rough flooring. Next, planed boards with a thickness of about 20–30 mm are laid on these bars in even rows.

There will be a constant pull of moisture from the ground, so both the skull beam and the planks of the rough flooring must be well impregnated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this, before railway sleepers soaked. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but it is perfect for a subfloor. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The subfloor slats are cut exactly to size and laid on the skull beam; they, of course, can be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now a continuous layer of technical polyethylene is laid over the entire room, with a sheet of technical polyethylene wrapped around the log and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus even if there are cracks left somewhere, there will be no air blowing through them.

Polystyrene foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so there is no point in installing any kind of hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large cracks left somewhere, don’t worry, they can be blown out with foam.

For a wooden house, the best and simplest option, in my opinion, is to install a floorboard. For this, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more are used. In order not to spoil the appearance of nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed using clamps or hammering nails into bottom part board groove.

To install parquet, laminate and other newfangled coverings, you will need to make a durable monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the FK brand with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm in 2 layers, and the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen install OSB flooring, but I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say anything about it. The only thing I definitely don’t recommend doing is using chipboard sheets to lay out the base on the floor; at the slightest humidity they will swell and begin to peel off.

If wooden house erected on a concrete slab, there is less work here. You need to cover the concrete with plastic sheeting overlapping the walls. After this, install logs with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and lay foam plastic between them, and sew a finished floor on top using any of the technologies described above.

As for the ceiling, the easiest way is to hem the lining from below to the joists. On the side of the second floor or attic, cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the joists and arrange the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in interfloor covering you definitely need to install some kind of sound insulator; the cheapest option is to take foam plastic, but no one is stopping you from using, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it is fashionable to leave the load-bearing beams on the ceiling open. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a skull beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Next, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coating of the second floor.

There are, of course, more multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard and suspended ceiling. But installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires some experience and stretch ceiling This is a rather expensive thing and, without having the knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with false timber is a priority method, because the house, after all, is made of timber and in this case we are simply correcting visual defects in the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only large sizes. In theory, if the walls are smooth, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it is better to put sheathing on the walls and install false beams on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on how much clearance you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a 30x40 mm block is sufficient. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or even larger. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but you have to put up with it, otherwise there is no other way.

And do not forget that electrical wiring in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be inserted into a metal hose. Now corrugated plastic tubes are sold for these purposes; they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and cost less than metal hoses, but mice can easily chew through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is installed only in exceptional cases and is extremely rare. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to their freezing.

The second most popular way interior decoration timber house is plasterboard. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet rooms you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to install drywall not on traditional metal carcass, and on wooden sheathing. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already installed in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the sheathing; for plasterboard, the pitch of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean; it needs to be puttied.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly widened with a knife; the groove should be approximately half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not adhere well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now get divorced finishing putty and finish the sheet with it. You start by filling the joints and caulking the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a 1-2 mm layer of putty over the entire plane of the sheet.

If you plan to cover the plasterboard with tiles, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive serpyanka, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh onto it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. To paint, putty walls will have to be sanded to perfection. That is, start with coarse sandpaper and end with fine sandpaper.

Often, fragmentary finishing with natural or artificial stone is used inside a log house or in the basement area. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of the base moving, so the base needs to be strengthened well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and secure it with self-tapping screws, onto which I additionally put wide washers.

Most often, tile adhesive is used to install stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously, the reinforced wooden base was covered with a layer cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and the stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive; it costs more, but the reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such cladding is carried out from the bottom up, with a support strip attached at the bottom.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Dear visitors! The BrusLandia company reports that when you order the construction of a house made of timber or logs, you receive the following services absolutely FREE:

SERVICES FREE:

1. Setting up a cabin on the site for the crew to live in (if there are no other accommodation options).
2. Delivery of materials to the site using our own equipment.
3. Unloading and storing material on site.
4. Working project of the house.
5. Redevelopment of a house to suit your site, without changing the amount of materials.
6. Technical supervision over the quality of work performed. 3 year warranty. Home warranty service.

Information for customers

Types of profiled timber

Profile A- This classic look profile, has a wide groove, compensation cut at the top and bottom (it saves the timber from cracks). The timber fits tightly to each other, and in order to prevent the house from shrinking, the crowns are fastened wooden dowels(dowels). The joints of the beams in the corners of the house are made according to the dovetail principle, which ensures that there are no through gaps in the house.

Profile B- This type of profile, which is often called Finnish or Scandinavian, is the most popular in the construction of houses made of timber. It has a double lock (which ensures the tightest fit of the crowns among themselves), a special cut at the top and bottom (it saves the timber from cracking). Jute (a special sealant that is placed between the crowns) helps to provide better thermal insulation. Also, the crowns of the house are fastened with wooden dowels (so that the timber does not move when it dries out). The beams in the corners of the house are sawed down dovetail(so that there are no through gaps in the house). A house made of timber of this profile is very durable, warm and usually lasts for many years without repair.

Profile B- If you are choosing between profiled timber and logs, this profile is an excellent option, as it has all the advantages of option A, plus with outside imitates a log. Jute is placed between the beams (the most best insulation, many times better than moss and tow). And the crowns are additionally fastened with dowels (this wooden sticks for fastening the beams together). This fastening ensures even shrinkage of the house.

Services	Price
window frame	prices from 4,000 rub.
Door frame	prices from 6,000 rub.
Met. tiles (without insulation)	prices from 130-1400 rub./m2
Met. tiles (with insulation)	prices from 140-1500 rub./m2
Natural tiles(with insulation)	prices from 1800 rub./m2
Painting	prices from 90-100 rub./m2 layer
Log skin	prices from 300 rub. /m2
Installation of platbands	prices from 600 rubles opening
Imitation of timber, in racing	prices from 450-500 rub./m2
Subfloor - plywood	prices from 250-300 rub./m2
Clean floor	prices from 400-500 rub./m2
Assembling a log house	prices from 3000-3200 rub./m2

Wooden houses are now very popular among the population. And the reason for this is the many advantages of such buildings in Moscow. Assembling a house from timber takes a very short time, their appearance is very presentable, and to order, the price of such a structure is affordable for most consumers, unlike, for example, brick analogues. In addition, wooden houses have excellent thermal conductivity in cold weather, and in the summer they give the house coolness and comfort. Finish can be different materials, not only inside, but also outside. Let's look at the issue of a house made of timber in more detail.

Turnkey exterior finishing of a house in Moscow

A turnkey wooden house built in itself already has beautiful view. He seems to hint at a closeness to the nature of his owner. Therefore, many want to leave such a pristine and natural look and do not cover the outside of the house with anything at all. In this case, a special solution consisting of antiseptics is simply applied to the beams to prevent the formation of mold and fungi. And after that the house is covered with varnish and paint. All these measures are necessary so that the structure is not encroached upon by any pests and microorganisms, it is not subject to deformation and would serve you well long years. Please note that the cottage must be painted on a turnkey basis constantly to ensure its durability.

If you don't want to use paints and varnishes, then for exterior finishing A variety of decorative products are used. Usually they are resorted to if you plan to stay in the house during the cold winter season. The first finishing is the insulation of the home. And only after that the exterior is finished with the material you like. Let’s look in more detail at what exactly can be used to clad a house made of timber in a high-quality and inexpensive way.

For example, finishing with materials such as stone, granite or porcelain stoneware

Natural or artificial stone is an excellent and very effective material for home decoration. In addition to giving houses an aesthetic appearance and properties, the stone has great strength, it does not allow moisture to pass through, and does not react to temperature changes. If you decide to use stone for your exterior, this would be a great choice. Your home will be reliably protected from adverse impacts weather conditions and will serve you for many years.

The entire house can be covered with stone, or only partially. In any case, this finish goes well with wood. There is also usually a wide variety of options on sale. decorative stone. Therefore, you can easily let your imagination run wild and try yourself as a designer.

Another finishing material that looks like stone is porcelain stoneware. He also looks very elegant and noble. Porcelain stoneware perfectly withstands temperature changes and mechanical stress, and is not afraid high humidity and other natural influences. In addition, it perfectly repels dust and dirt. And if the need for cleaning does arise, it is very simple to do.

The finishing is done with the most popular material – brick. Brickwork will always look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing and will suit any style of home. Well, about the beautiful ones performance characteristics This material is known to everyone. It is reliable, retains heat well and is durable. Brick, along with the insulation used, will further increase the thermal conductivity of your home. However, to achieve maximum effect, both in terms of thermal conductivity and aesthetics, brick finishing must be carried out by a qualified craftsman with experience. And it is also not recommended to purchase material options for this, the prices of which are low.

Finishing timber houses using plaster in Moscow

This material is designed to protect the structure from exposure environment and also make its appearance more attractive. Plaster performs the function of insulation, protects houses from mold, bacteria and moisture penetration, and it is also convenient in that when applied it can hide all the unevenness of the walls and similar construction flaws. As a result, a special structural or relief mixture can be applied to the walls, which is decorative in nature.

However, the plastering process is not the easiest. This finishing requires the presence and experience of certain skills. If you do not have them, it is recommended to trust the professionals. They will definitely do their job perfectly. Plastered walls can be painted to further highlight the topography or structure. The pricing policy for these services can be viewed on our website.

Finishing a house made of timber using siding in Moscow

Finishing houses made of timber using siding - the price policy for this material is low and easy to install. However, in the end it will look nice and neat. Siding protects the building well from the influences of nature - precipitation. There is also a huge variety on the market various options this material. Therefore, you can safely fantasize about what your turnkey cottage should look like. Let's look at the types of siding and prices.

1. Metal siding. Typically, this type is used when cladding timber for industrial structures rather than in the residential sector. The metal is strong and flexible at the same time, and also has long term services. However, the finish has disadvantages. Metal is a very heavy material, its price itself is high, and in the event of mechanical impact, dents will remain on it. In addition, steel is susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, it will need to be additionally processed with special means.
2. Vinyl siding. If you look from the outside, this finish will resemble ordinary boards. The only difference is that vinyl does not deteriorate over time. The price of this material for timber is very cheap, it is lightweight, and it is also easy to install. It is easy to wash and does not require any additional care. You can find a wide range of similar products on the market. Vinyl siding is not affected sun rays, retains its color for a long time, it is not attacked by fungi and bacteria. To remove dust, siding can be simply wiped periodically with water and detergent.
3. Cement siding. This is a very durable material, and it is also fireproof. However, cement is not popular among the population. And the reason for this is a decent amount of raw materials, which affects the ease of installation and transportation. Also, the weight of the entire house increases significantly, not to mention the foundation. And to order, cement is not the most affordable price.
4. Wood siding. It is extremely rare that finishing is used for the outside. Typically wood is used inside a building. Prices for material for cladding timber are high. And its main disadvantage is its ability to absorb moisture, which negatively affects the service life of such siding.

Home finishing work using panels that imitate logs

It may seem strange that a house built from timber needs to be covered with a material that imitates it. This is true, for example, for old houses made of timber, the logs of which are no longer pleasing to the eye with their attractiveness. Wood tends to darken, absorb dirt, and become damaged. It is not always financially possible to build a new cottage on the site of an old one. The cost of finishing the outside with imitation material will be much cheaper.

But wooden panels are used only when you plan to completely repeat the contour of your building, preserving its naturalness and original appearance, and at the same time insulate it. The panels completely copy the profile of beams or profile beams. Moreover, this siding is so realistic that it is almost impossible to detect the imitation with the naked eye.

Before finishing begins, the walls are covered with specialized solutions to protect against mold, bacteria, moisture, fire and various pests.

Fachwerk - finishing a house in this style

A very original and effective choice. This medieval style is very popular in Europe. And in our country, many consumers prefer finishing in this style. Materials for affordable price Finishes include slabs of chips and cement, as well as OSB panels. To complete the finishing in the half-timbered style, you need to make the following elements:

• Frame of vertical and horizontal partitions
• Wooden braces
• The gaps are filled with various finishing material, for example, brick, stone or something else
• The wall is decoratively divided into geometric figures. Parts for this can be crossbars, braces, etc.

How to finish the inside of a wooden house?

The interior decoration of timber houses also has a wide variety of materials. Unlike the exterior decoration of a house made of timber, in this case more attention is paid not to the strength characteristics of the material, but to its decorative properties. Those. the finish should be suitable for future furniture and other decorative elements, and fit well into general style and the interior of the house. You can not limit yourself to one material, but use several; it’s enough just to maintain harmony and aesthetics.

Application of decorative stone

A very good option is to order a house made of timber, where the walls are relatively smooth. Therefore, it will not be possible to lay them out with stones special labor. In addition, the stone has many advantages:

The walls can be painted the color that you like and that suits your interior. Except aesthetic function paint can protect wood from the effects of fungi and bacteria. Before the painting process, the walls must be leveled, covering all the depressions and cracks. After this, the surface of the timber is primed so that the paint adheres better to the timber.

It is advisable to choose environmentally friendly paint. When dry, it should not release unpleasant odor. Moreover, you should pay attention to the fact that in the end the wall may have glossy surface or matte. What exactly is your choice, what you like best or what best suits the style of the room.

If you don’t want to change anything at all, but want to preserve the naturalness of natural wood, then you can emphasize it even more with the help of colorless varnish and stain.

Finishing a house made of timber, using siding or plastic and wooden lining

If your cottage is already quite old, but you still gravitate toward natural wood, then, as an option, you can use lining for decoration. However, the lining is not final finishing, and this must be kept in mind. Wood is usually subject to rot, and besides, all kinds of insects and mold love it. After finishing a house made of timber with clapboards, it must be treated with specialized compounds for protection, as well as varnish.

Yes, perhaps finishing houses made of timber with clapboard is not the easiest task. However, in the end you will get a natural look natural wood, which will always delight you and your guests, and at an attractive price. Your old building will get a second life. If desired, it can be successfully completed with wooden lining and stone. It is difficult to imagine a better and more natural combination. This way you can model and make the design as original as you imagine it to be.

Another affordable material for finishing a wooden house is plastic siding. It also has some advantages. It is easy to clean and does not absorb water. Therefore, this option for such a finishing price will be optimally suited for bathrooms or kitchens. In addition, the plastic is lightweight and very easy to install. Also, and very importantly, the ease of installation means that you can handle it on your own. There is no need for any special knowledge or skills. This way you can save a decent amount of money. And the prices for plastic siding are much lower than those ordered from competitors.

Decorating walls in a house using plasterboard

This material is the most popular among consumers on given time. With its help, the walls are quickly leveled to an ideal condition, its price is low. In addition, all sorts of things are made from plasterboard decorative elements, for example, arches, roundings, partitions, etc. There is room for the designer's imagination to run wild here. However, drywall has one unpleasant drawback - it hides part of the room. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it in small rooms.

Drywall itself is not the final finishing material. It is usually covered with wallpaper, painted or other facing material.