As a child, did you like to shoot with rubber bands? Well, who didn’t love it? Yes, we had a difficult childhood. Because we didn't have such a wonderful gun that shoots rubber bands.
Do you want to remember your youth, or maybe you want to give a cool gift to your son, brother, nephew or offspring of your friends? Then buy a Wooden Rubber Band Gun.
This miracle of engineering will allow you to accurately and very effectively fire at pets, friends or even colleagues in the office. In this case, shooting will be completely safe, no matter where you end up. The exception is if you hit the boss, although there are options here too.
A gun that shoots rubber bands will appeal to both children and adults. It is positioned as a toy for boys and men, but you know, many ladies will not refuse such a gift either. Think about it and under no circumstances buy this gun for them - you will constantly be under fire. Although... it’s better to buy two pistols and start a real war. Moreover, the cost of ammunition is just a pittance. And the ammunition itself is reusable.
Characteristics
- body material: wood;
- shells: ordinary “rubber bands for money”;
- size: 22.5*10.9*2.1 cm;
- weight: 85 g;
- Age limit: for children over 5 years old.
In the laboratory of the Secret of the Master, another sample of a weapon was built - a rubber-shooter pistol. The toy compares favorably with other previously built models due to its multiple charges and the presence of a shot sound.
How to make a rubber gun with your own hands
The basis was taken as a ready-made model of the Parabellum pistol. Repeating the pistol in comparison with the previous one (see for everyone who is making a rubber-shooter for the first time) turned out to be not very difficult, although one detail had to be redone by clarifying the drawing. The construction material is simple - scraps of planed boards 15-20 mm thick, pieces of five-layer and three-layer plywood. You will also need: a piece of metal rod or nails with a diameter of 3-3.5 mm, six small screws or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, PVA glue and a spring from a fountain pen. Tools for work - a jigsaw, a drill with a set of drills, a clamp, medium-grain sandpaper, a screwdriver, a metal saw or wire cutters.
Scheme of manufacturing and assembly of a rubber arrow
- Download and print the template. Link at the end of the instructions. We cut out the part templates not along the contour and, guided by the wood fibers (see photo), paste the part patterns F1 (handle), F2 (barrel), F3 (stop), M2 (trigger) onto a piece of board. We glue templates P1 (box wall), M1 (shutter) onto a piece of five-layer plywood. Template P2 (overlay) is glued onto a piece of three-layer plywood. The number of cut parts P1 and P2 is two pieces each.
- Using a jigsaw, we cut out the parts of the rubber thrower according to the templates. We must be patient. The pistol requires precision, especially in the manufacture of moving parts of the slide and trigger (M1 and M2). Assembly experience has shown that it is better to lengthen the trigger at the top by 2-3 mm. Make this mark immediately after gluing the template (see photo). When assembling and adjusting, it is better to sharpen the part than to redo it again. Be careful not to damage the template paper with hole marks.
We prepare two metal axles; with a board thickness of 18 mm, the axles will be 32 mm long. The axes must be straight and the ends free of burrs and irregularities.
You should also be careful when drilling holes. Be sure to mark the centers of the holes with your own hands before drilling - with a core, an awl, or a nail. Holes for mounting screws in the walls of the box (part P1) can be drilled with a 3 mm drill and the edges for the conical head can be selected with a drill bigger size. Holes for metal axles (see drawing and photo) should be 0.1-0.2 mm larger diameter axes. That is, the axis should move in the hole, but not dangle.
- We drill a hole in the rubber release bolt (M1), the diameter of the hole should be 0.1-0.2 mm less than the diameter of the axis. You must drill strictly vertically!
- After gluing, we reinsert the moving parts and check the operation of the mechanism. To return the trigger, a spring must be installed. To do this, drill a hole in the trigger with a depth of 4-5 mm. We insert the trigger with the spring into place))). If necessary, shorten the spring a little. Tests have shown that the spring from the handle constantly wants to jump out; for this, a small depression was made manually on the barrel stop (see photo), which solved the problem.
Drill a hole in the trigger (M2) along the diameter of the axis. You must also drill strictly vertically! If there drilling machine, then this will help a lot.
We clean all the details sandpaper, the pistol handle and trigger hook can be given an anatomical shape, all protruding edges of the parts can also be rounded. Thoroughly clean the areas where the rubber bands of the barrel and bolt touch. Attention! The tops of the shutter (M1) should not be rounded! Do not round the upper edges of the trigger! If you are making a masterpiece, you should sequentially process the external parts with sandpaper with a lower grit number.
The trigger part (M2) must rotate freely in future box, therefore it is necessary to reduce its thickness by 1-1.5 mm. This is done by grinding down the side surface on sandpaper.
We insert the axle into the trigger of the crossbow and, with light blows of a hammer, insert the axle into the bolt (M1)
We place one pad on a flat surface and place the parts of the handle, barrel and gun stop and check the operation of the mechanism (watch the video). The handle should take its position and not interfere with the operation of the shutter and act as a stop for the trigger in the extreme position of the shutter release. The barrel should also limit the movement of the trigger when releasing the bolt. When the bolt is cocked, it should rest on the trigger pad. Understand and understand the operation of the mechanism so that actions can be taken further work were conscious. If necessary, sharpen the bolt support pad on the trigger.
Use a pencil to mark the position of the handle, barrel and stop on the wall of the box. We cover the parts to be glued with PVA glue and, using overlays, glue the handle of the rubber shooter, the wall of the box, the barrel and the stop together in the designated places. The parts are tightened with a clamp until the glue dries completely. Make no mistake about it correct location details!
Marks on the wall Gluing partsWe install the second wall of the crossbow cover. After installation, the shutter should be positioned without distortion and rotate without special effort, and the trigger freely returns to its original position after pressing. If this does not happen, eliminate the cause; you may have to cut it out new wall, if the holes are made inaccurately. Holding the wall with your hands, check the operation of the mechanism for all four shutter positions. Remember the position of the wall.
Secure the second wall with screws. To avoid cracking of parts, you can drill the parts thin drill 1.5-2 mm. Fire four control shots. Is the rubber gun shooting? Hooray. We install screws on the first wall.
Apply pads to cover the bolt and trigger axes.
About half a year ago, a feature flashed here, where the manufacture of a Nagan revolver from plywood was described. At my request, the author shared the drawings with me and since then I have developed another hobby, designing and manufacturing weapons that shoot rubber rings - rubber shooters.
See all photos in the gallery
Among my crafts there is a Nagant system revolver, Colt 1911, Lugger P1908, UZI, TT and Glock17.
The German Walter P.38 is my first work that I tried to somehow document. So far it’s not going well: while working, you often forget to take photos and shoot videos on time.
And so the P.38 rubber rifle. The target must have a multi-shot, semi-automatic mechanism; the bolt must move (blowback) when fired. The clip must be removed. Incomplete disassembly without tools into the same parts as an eccentric. Operating shutter lag.
We look for photographs and drawings of the original and begin work in CAD. In my case, this is an old Autodesk Inventor. We scale the pictures, make a 2D sketch and trace the first detail.
From 2D we “extrude” 3D of the required thickness. We’ll repeat it many, many times, connect creativity, figure out the lineup, start assembling the 3D model. This is in case it is very short.
My profession is not related to 3D modeling and CNC. All this is based on a hobby and everything was achieved by trial and error; there may be something not according to generally accepted rules.
The 3D model is specially “painted” in bright colors, this makes it easier to distinguish design errors: intersections, contacts, etc.
Now we export DXF files of each part, group them into A4 size sheets, so that we can later share the drawings with those who do not have a CNC, but have a printer and a jigsaw. And patience.
Using a CAM postprocessor, we prepare a program for a CNC machine. We will mill with a cutter with a diameter of 1.5 mm to a depth of 4.3 mm in 2 passes.
And yes I have homemade machine CNC with a working field of 60x50cm, but that's a different story. We go to the machine, launch the program, and after about an hour we hold the workpieces in our hands. A bit like a 3D puzzle.
Assembly can begin. It's no more difficult than assembling Legos or plastic sets. We sand every detail without fanaticism and trim off the excess. Glue with PVA glue.
Some parts have holes for centering in place - we use them during assembly.
And here you can see the magazine latch and release device. As long as we don’t sand too much so as not to lose the thickness of the details.
We assemble the magazine and check “compatibility” with the frame. There shouldn't be any loitering. We glue the guides for the shutter onto the frame.
We assemble the “shutter” and holders for the barrel. Let's try everything on together.
Here you can see the rubber gun's automatic device - a pair of rotor and separator assembly. The rotor is a square little thing, on the edge of which, when “loading,” rubber bands are stretched, up to eight pieces. When fired, the separator deflects upward and allows the rotor to rotate 45 degrees, the rubber band breaks off the rotor. When the trigger is released, the separator allows the rotor to rotate to its original state. You can shoot again.
We make a pistol barrel from a round piece of wood. This is the most difficult little thing. Lathe only in plans for now.
We collect the rest of the little things: the front sight, grip pads, etc. Getting ready for sanding.
Subsequently sanded.
Finishing things up: Finishing up the little things. We cover the handle linings with stain, and the gun itself with special oil for furniture. So it doesn't shine much.
Here's a partial disassembly without tools. Those who know can compare it with the original.
Assembly work - two weekend evenings. Construction and preparation takes approximately a week of work in the evenings.
Here's a homemade project for the weekend. Children of both sexes are happy with the outcome.
Bonus Glock and Lugger:
Links to videos on YouTube:
Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqPxWJBsGX0&t=24s
Part 2: