When answering the question of how to make a frame for drywall, it is necessary to clarify on what surface this material will be laid. Everyone knows that plasterboard sheets can be used to decorate both the ceiling and walls. In this article we will consider laying drywall on the wall, or rather, we will consider installing a frame for the walls.
I would like to draw your attention to the material from which this design can be manufactured. Is it a metal profile or wooden beam. The second, although it has been used for a long time, has already lost its position in many respects. So, when choosing a material, you must give preference to the first.
General rules and regulations of the installation process
Like any construction and repair process, the installation of a frame for drywall is divided into several stages, which, according to all canons, must be strictly observed. Experts believe that even a slight deviation from the sequence of the process can affect the quality of the finished wall.
Stage No. 1 – preparatory
First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials. This is important so that during the installation process you do not get distracted by the lack of one or the other.
Therefore, we prepare the tools:
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- plumb line;
- level;
- roulette;
- metal scissors.
Now let's prepare the materials:
- profiles PS 50/50 and PP 60/27;
- direct suspension;
- self-tapping screws;
- drywall, at least twelve millimeters thick.
Attention!
Not everyone believes that the base surface of the wall must be brought to a certain state of quality (strength).
But it needs to be done. Therefore, it is best to repair detected defects with a putty solution and treat the entire surface with a primer.
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Stage No. 2 - marking
So, the question of how to properly make a frame for drywall has been raised. And the second stage in this process takes one of important places. Properly done marking is fifty percent of the successful completion of installation work.
Where does this stage begin? First of all, it is necessary to determine the difference in the wall surface. It is this indicator that will determine at what distance from the surface the structure will be mounted. Experts believe that this distance should not exceed ten centimeters.
How to make a frame for a plasterboard wall - markings
Now markings are made on the floor for laying the rack profile. To do this, you will need a level with which this element needs to be aligned in the horizontal plane.
It should be noted that the flooring must already be prepared, that is, leveled with a screed. Fastening to the floor is done with self-tapping screws every 30-40 centimeters.
And now it's very important point. It is necessary to hang a plumb line from the ceiling to the floor along the edges of the profile laid on the floor. And do on ceiling surface two marks, and ideally, make exactly the same mark in the center.
These are three points that should be in one line. They determine the location of the profile on the ceiling. We fasten it with the same screws, the distance between which is determined by the range of 30-40 centimeters. All that remains is to install vertical racks and attach them to adjacent walls.
Stage No. 3 – marking on the wall and installing the PP
The marking is based on the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet - 120x300 cm. Usually it is installed vertically, so the profiles under it are also placed in a vertical plane.
For each sheet you need to install three profiles:
- two will be located under the edges of the sheet;
- one is in the middle.
If the material is thick, then for structural strength, intermediate elements can be installed every 40 cm.
For ease of work, markings using a plumb line are made on the wall itself, along which direct hangers are installed every 40-50 cm. They are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws.
Now it will not be possible to install the profiles themselves special labor. As you can see, the question of how to properly make a drywall frame with your own hands is not so complicated.
Advice!
It will be difficult for beginners to immediately, without preparation, install PP profiles in one plane. Experience is needed here.
Therefore, we recommend stretching three or four threads horizontally between two vertically standing PS elements. This will be a guide.
You can see how to make a frame for drywall on this page of the site, where we specifically placed a video. Let it be for you as instructions for use. Happy renovation!
Frame for the corner of the room
The process described above is simple, that's obvious. But in any room there are difficult places where you have to take into account useful tips from specialists.
For example, the question is how to properly frame corners for drywall.
- First, we note that there are internal and external angles.
- Secondly, the assembly technology is different for each type of angle.
Frame for inner corner
If metal carcass If the plasterboard for one wall is already ready, then it is not possible to install the PS on the adjacent wall. Therefore, the basis for new design becomes a PS profile installed on the wall.
It is to this that the PS stand is attached with self-tapping screws. For the strength and rigidity of the structure, experts recommend using self-tapping screws 9.5 mm long, which should be installed every 30 cm.
How to properly make a frame corner for drywall - an internal corner
Please note that the two profiles should only be fixed in a straight plane. Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that both elements are connected to each other on one side by the front part, on the other by the side.
Frame for external corner
This design is simpler; there is no need to connect two profiles. Simply, PSs are installed on each side of the corner, which are attached to the wall, as well as to profiles installed on the floor and ceiling. The design turns out to be quite durable.
Semicircular frame
The semicircular design is usually used:
- during the construction of an arch;
- when rounding the corners of a room;
- when creating multi-level ceilings;
- when creating design elements (openings, wall edges, niches, etc.).
Therefore, the question of how to make a frame for drywall with a semicircle is quite relevant today.
For any of these designs, you can use ready-made elements or make them with my own hands, from PN profile.
- In the first case, you just need to choose the exact length and fold the element along the required circumference.
- In the second case, the profile must be prepared. That is, use metal scissors to cut it along the side walls, cutting out wedges at the corners of which it will bend well. It is already easy to give the necessary shape from such an element.
Conclusion on the topic
How to make a drywall frame for a wall? We tried to answer this question in detail by posting a video and photos. Of course, the quality of the result will depend on your experience and the correct implementation of all stages of the work. But the price this issue will largely depend on what materials you used. Experts advise – buy quality ones.
Drywall is an excellent solution for decorating premises: finishing walls, ceilings, interior partitions and arches. To do this, you need to build a frame for drywall, and this design will allow you to level out large uneven walls.
The base is most often made of metal, but installation of wood is allowed. Often used in wooden house for surface finishing. To assemble the profile yourself, all work can be divided into several stages.
Required tools and materials
Before starting work in a wooden house, you need to purchase the following tools:
- perforator;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- construction level;
- pencil;
- plumb line with a load;
- ruler;
- dowels;
- self-tapping screws;
- metal profiles (UD guides and CD carriers);
- connectors (straight and cross-shaped). Straight is used to extend the carrier CD, and cross-shaped is used for cross-shaped connections;
- hangers required for fastening load-bearing profiles.
By doing wooden frame, you will additionally need a hacksaw for wood carving, and materials - wooden blocks. For a metal frame you will need steel elements and guides.
Preparatory work
Installation in a wooden house begins with drawing up the necessary drawings and diagrams. The areas on which the structure will be built are drawn on a sheet of paper. The frame can be mounted on the ceiling or walls. It is installed for fastening lamps or in order to make double ceiling. The bases allow you to create niches in the walls or level the surface. Greenhouses are often created from metal profiles.
Possible base options are shown in the photo. When the installation locations are determined, the future structure is marked.
Scheme for laying gypsum boards on a profile 
Drawing plasterboard ceiling
Where can the frame be mounted?
Due to the fact that the drywall frame allows you to level the surface, the scope of its use is very wide. It can be applied to the ceiling and walls indoors, making it beautiful decorative shelves or a niche, an arch, or even make a greenhouse thanks to such a frame.
To the ceiling
If you plan to mount a frame under drywall on the ceiling surface and walls, then you should start from the ceiling. The marking of the future frame for plasterboard on the ceiling is done from the lowest place using a tape measure (the diagram shows the marking in more detail). For more accurate measurements, you can use laser level.
Marking the base with a hydraulic level Tip: the ceiling in the house must be wired before installing the structure. After all, after installing the plasterboard sheets, this will be much more difficult to accomplish.
After measurements, installation of the metal profile on the ceiling is carried out:
- hangers are installed for fastening with dowels and screws. Make a step of approximately 60 cm. During installation two-level ceiling There are 2 rows of suspensions, which are located at different heights;
- guides are installed. They are installed on marks around the perimeter of the room;
- with threads that are attached to the profile, the ceiling is conventionally divided into squares measuring 0.5 × 0.5 m;
- Load-bearing elements are installed along the marked threads. They are inserted into the profile guides and attached to the hangers with screws;
- Use crab connectors to fasten profiles crosswise. For a two-level ceiling, two-level connectors are used.
Frame diagram for a plasterboard ceiling The frame of profiles for plasterboard for the ceiling is ready. After this, you can attach the material to the structure. In the photo you can see the finished frames.
Wooden frame for drywall 
Metal frame for the ceiling Installation technology wooden version for a ceiling similar to a metal one:
- metal suspensions are attached to the ceiling;
- prepare wooden slats with a cross section of 5x4 cm. It is recommended to make a structure from bars only after processing them protective agent from moisture;
- slats are attached along the perimeter of the room (under the ceiling) according to the marks;
- Threads are attached between the slats for orientation when installing the sheathing;
- using self-tapping screws, a sheathing of slats is installed. The bars are laid out between the slats.
When carrying out installation, wooden blocks are first attached to hangers at the edges. And then in the middle. When the structure is ready, installation is carried out on drywall.
On the walls
After the ceiling is ready, you can start working on the walls. The technology is similar to installing profiles on the ceiling. The same tools and materials are used. To install a metal frame under plasterboard on a wall in a wooden house, you need to follow the instructions:
- guides are installed along the perimeter of the wall (the upper and lower ones are attached to the ceiling surface and floor);
- The guides are marked using thread. The distance should be greater than for the ceiling - 0.6 m;
- into the lower guide profile - at the bottom and at the top, the load-bearing profile is inserted and secured with brackets to the wall. The brackets are located in 0.6 m increments (the photo shows the wall mounting diagram).
Wooden box for drywall 
Metal frame on the wall If there is a window or doorway in the wall, then you need to use additional profile for constructing a frame for plasterboard on the wall. The UD profile is mounted around the perimeter of the window. Next, profiles are attached above the window, which go above and below the window (bottom). The finished frame can be finished with prepared material.
Advice: plasterboard board should be screwed around the entire perimeter, otherwise it may lead to deformation. Therefore, it is imperative to use a profile around the window.
Partitions and niches for drywall
Installation of the partition begins with the selection of profiles. Guides and load-bearing components must be selected larger in size than for wall structures. After all, the guide components are attached only to the ceiling and floor. Therefore, the frame under must be strong and stable.
Diagram of a wooden frame for a plasterboard partition Installation of a partition in the house:
- UD metal guides are mounted to the ceiling and floor;
- load-bearing vertical CDs are installed in increments of 0.4 m;
- wooden blocks are installed around the perimeter where the opening for the door will be located. This will allow it to be securely fastened.
The partition for drywall is ready. The basis for the niches involves the use of guides and load-bearing profiles, such as those used for walls. To build niches and shelves in the wall, you can show your imagination: use UD guides adjacent to each other using a jumper. For curved corners, twisted UDs are used. For UD shelves, they are connected by carriers.
Metal frame of interior partition 
Shelves made of profiles in unsheathed gypsum board form When constructing any structure for the ceiling surface or walls, you need to ensure strength. After all, this frame must withstand the loads placed on it.
Arch for plasterboard
In order to make a beautiful arch in the place where the door is installed, you can use the installation metal profiles under drywall. Most often, semicircular or oval arches without an angle are used. But original version is pointed gothic. In this case, you cannot do without using an angle, because it is pointed upward.
But an ordinary semicircular arch without an angle will be considered. Step-by-step manufacturing technology:
- dismantle the old opening;
- clear out old surface, remove dirt and dust;
- The desired arch is cut out of plasterboard in duplicate. Then it is applied to the top of the opening, marks are made for the future structure (the starting points of the arch are marked);
- the profile is installed on top part doors where the arch will be mounted. You should get the letter “P” outside and inside the opening;
- then 2 profiles are taken and cuts are made on them with scissors. They need to be attached to the drywall along the radius edge;
- screw the curved components to the structure on the door;
- make stiffening ribs for the resulting arches using profiles.
Metal frame for a plasterboard arch The frame for the arch is ready. All that remains is to attach the material to the structure and do the finishing work.
Greenhouse frame under plasterboard
Greenhouse installation consists of several stages:
- drawing up a drawing;
- procurement of materials;
- preparation of the territory.
After determining the size and design of the future greenhouse, you need to calculate required amount materials. Metal profiles are used for this. Then you need to clear the area of debris. The next step will be pouring the foundation (it is preferable to use a shallow strip foundation).
Construction of the frame for the greenhouse begins after everything is ready. The components used are the same as for installing the partition. Technology of work for the base of the greenhouse:
- the frame for plasterboard is assembled from guides and load-bearing elements according to the drawing;
- weld the hinges for the door to the profile;
- assemble a door for a greenhouse from profiles and hang it on its hinges.
The base for the greenhouse is ready and you can see how it looks in the photo. It is allowed to use a wooden base. But it is better not to use wooden blocks, because they will be exposed to moisture. But if the material is treated with a special impregnation. That possible problems destruction can be avoided.
Wooden structure under drywall 
Metal frame for greenhouse It is preferable to use a metal frame for drywall. After all, wood is not suitable for wet rooms, and it requires additional processing before use. But if you need to minimize the distance of the sheathed surface from the wall or from the ceiling, then a wooden one will solve this problem. Although the metal frame is durable, wood is an environmentally friendly material. Therefore, the choice is up to everyone. Installing a frame for drywall in a wooden house will allow you to install insulation into the structure, which will significantly reduce energy costs.
Without a properly assembled frame, drywall will not last long. The strength and reliability of walls, ceilings, arches, shelves and other structures made of gypsum plasterboard, so beloved by professional builders and amateurs, depends on the frame.
To ensure that the repair does not turn out to be a trivial waste of money, competent implementation of the recommendations and advice of the experts on installing the frame is required.
Today, two methods of installing drywall using a frame are used - on a wooden beam and a metal profile. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, but the right approach Using both methods, the desired end result is achieved.
Repair using gypsum plasterboard
Timber is selected for work when there is excess wood good quality. Although it is believed that a frame made from it is cheaper, in reality this is not entirely true - wood becomes more expensive every year.
Timber as a material for a frame under plasterboard is used in rooms with moderate humidity and normal temperature conditions. It is dried well, and installation begins after treatment with an antiseptic. In this regard, the profile is more advantageous: it does not rot, it will not be beaten by shashel, it is not afraid of temperature changes, it will not get wet, crack or dry out.
A sheet of plasterboard on a frame made of timber holds tighter, since the screws cling to the wood with all the threads and fit more tightly. Profile option loses a little in this regard, but the issue is resolved by more frequent installation of self-tapping screws.
A timber frame is environmentally friendly, but a metal profile frame is durable, easier to install, and the material for it can be bought at any store. At the same time, the elements frame structures are offered in assortment. You don’t have to invent your own - everything is standard.
Tools for constructing frames
When planning a frame from wooden slats, then prepare the following tools:
- Saw.
- Jigsaw.
- Hammer.
- Screws and nails.
- Reiki - timber.
- Metal corner.
Profile types If the frame is made of a profile, then find scissors or a hacksaw. In any case, you cannot do without a level, plumb line, or rules. In addition, you will need:
- Screwdriver;
- Dowels;
- Drill or hammer drill;
- Self-tapping screws for metal;
- Sealing tape;
- Pencil or marker;
- Connectors of different types;
- Suspensions;
- Profiles.
Installation of a wooden frame under gypsum boards
The cross-section of the beam must be no less than 40 by 70 mm for vertical and support slats and 30 by 50 mm for horizontal ones. Wood moisture content does not exceed 15%. Preferred material selection coniferous species tree.
Work begins with a sketch of a diagram indicating the location of the door and window openings. Then they calculate the required number of plasterboard sheets, after which they begin to install the sheathing support beams to the floor and ceiling.
Installation begins from the floor using dowels or nails if the house is wooden. The next stage is the installation of vertical struts, between which horizontal ones are then mounted. Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm.
Horizontal ones are nailed on top of the vertical posts, then vertical ones again, and so on. Horizontal ones are also placed in increments of 60 cm. Each row of sheathing is checked for verticality and plane with a level. Level the position bottom beam on the floor by placing pieces of wood. The correct position of the wall plane is also adjusted.
It’s easier to immediately assemble the frame directly on the floor of the room, if its size allows. In this case, its width should be 1 cm less than the actual width of the wall.
Wooden frame for gypsum plasterboard Metal frame elements
The basis is profiles - guides (UD) and carriers (CD). The first ones are needed to create the outline of the frame for drywall. They play the role of a “foundation” into which the supporting profile is inserted and fastened, into which the gypsum board is already placed.
The guide profile is standard with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 meters. It is important to pay attention to its thickness - the strength of the frame depends on it. The thicker one is suitable for walls, and the thinner one is suitable for ceilings. The supporting profile has a wide shelf (6 cm), a depth of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 or 4 meters. Issued from sheet metal different thicknesses, which also affects the strength of constructed structures.
The rack profile is used only for the wall frame. Ceiling, corner and arched profiles are used in the construction of appropriate plasterboard structures. Arched with cutouts for easy bending. The width of these profiles varies from 5 to 15 cm.
The main types of self-tapping screws used in assembling frame structures are fasteners with a length of 9.5 mm (“fleas” - with sharp tips), 25 and 35 mm. It is recommended to take galvanized steel, that is, white.
Suspensions are used straight - U-shaped. They are also chosen with galvanization. There is also a so-called quick suspension. The design of this element allows you to adjust the height of the ceiling plane. Used exclusively when installing ceiling frames.
The connecting element is a “crab” or cross-shaped connector. It is used to connect transversely located profiles (crosswise). A straight connector is used to extend the rail.
Metal frame for gypsum plasterboard Installation of a metal frame under gypsum boards
They start with markings. First, the position lines of the supporting profile on the floor and ceiling are determined and drawn. For this it is better to use a laser level. The lines are spaced from the load-bearing surfaces by approximately 10 cm. The value depends on the thickness of the profile, sheet of drywall, communications, thermal insulation and curvature of the walls.
Now install the guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels in increments of no more than a meter. Next, mark the position of the supporting profiles on the wall. They are located every 60 cm.
If increased rigidity is needed, then the installation step should be reduced to 40 cm.
After this, hangers are installed. They start from the floor at a height of 15 cm and then upward in increments of no more than 1 m. Masters advise placing every 60 cm. standard wall with a height of 2.5 m there will be three or four suspensions. They are also fastened with dowels, preferably with a size of 6x60 mm. Next, insert the vertical posts into the guides and secure them with small self-tapping screws (9.5 mm).
In the video you can see the option of assembling the frame for gypsum boards:
The next step is to tighten the thread, which will show how much each rack profile is extended or recessed into the plane. The threads are stretched between the outer posts at the level of the suspensions. It is necessary to adjust the position of the vertical profiles relative to the thread and screw them to the hangers. After this, the plane is checked using the two-meter rule.
The installation is completed by installing horizontal jumpers. They can be made from a rack profile. Start installation from the bottom. The first one should be 25 cm from the floor, the subsequent ones should be every 40-60 cm. During the installation process, the ears of the connecting “crabs” are immediately bent and screwed to the profile.
The frame is ready. Now they begin to install the slabs, then prepare them for finishing and cladding. The process is simple, but requires attention to detail and meticulousness. Only then will design ideas not be wasted. Whichever option you choose: or metal, the main thing is to perform the installation carefully and slowly to set it level.
In contact with
GKL, like finishing material, is widely used not only for internal, but also for external work. But the technology for constructing a frame for drywall is somewhat different in different situations, and the configuration of the profiles used in a given case is also different.
Below we will look at the types of metal frames and lathing, and also watch a video on the installation of some of them.
What and how are frames for plasterboard made of?
First, let's see in what places the frame can be installed under drywall. The three main places where such a structure is installed are walls (sheathing), ceilings and partitions.
Each of these designs can be simple (classical) or have increased complexity, including niches, figures and arches, but this already relates more to the field of design, although, of course, it does not do without the technical side of the issue.
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What are drywall frames made of?
- Mainly from CD profile A frame is manufactured for plasterboard on the ceiling and on the walls (lathing). The galvanized profile is 60 mm wide and 27 mm thick (side height), and its length is either 3 or 4 meters. The edge of the side is profiled (this can be seen in the photo above), which gives the CD additional rigidity.
- The UD profile is identical in length to the CD profile, but its width is 27 mm (CD is inserted according to its thickness), the height of the side is also 27 mm. It is used for edging around the perimeter, and also, if you are interested in how to assemble a frame under a wave, then the bending is done using such a profile or UW. The profile edge is not profiled.
- CW profiles They are used mainly for partitions and have different widths - it can be 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm. The thickness (side height) is fixed and is 50 mm for any width. The length can vary, for example the CW-50 from Knauf can be 2600 mm, 2750 mm, 3000 mm and 4000 mm.
- UW profiles are designed to hold CW and are installed around the perimeter of the frame, which is most often used for partitions, and if you are interested in how to assemble a frame for plasterboard for the attic, then this is just what you need. The width of the UW, of course, corresponds to the width of the CW and comes in 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm, all other sizes (thickness and length) are also identical to the CW.
- To assemble the frame with your own hands when connecting the profiles to each other, use small self-tapping screws 11 mm long, which are designed for steel thickness up to 2 mm. The screws are screwed in using a screwdriver attachment marked PH-2.
- Third-party fittings are also used for mounting frames, these are hangers various types, screws and dowels, as well as molly. When assembling structures, wooden blocks and boards can be used to strengthen them, as well as thick tape to dampen sound (for example, on the UW or UD profile sole installed on a wooden floor, a strip is glued to prevent the frame from ringing).
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Frame on the wall (lathing)
- Now let's figure out how to properly assemble a drywall frame to level the wall. First of all, you need to determine the most protruding point of this plane and, guided by it, use a paint cord (chockline) to mark a line on the floor - it will serve as the boundary for the inside of the UD profile. Now you need to transfer this line to the ceiling - lift it along the walls using a level, and connect it on the ceiling with the same paint cord - you have a control marking for edging with the UD profile.
- Now you need to screw the UD around the perimeter with dowels and screws. If the rough surface is dense enough (brick, cement-sand plaster), then you can use impact dowels, but if you have to attach the guides to limestone, concrete floors or lime plaster, then use a dummy dowel with a screw 1-2 mm thinner than the outer diameter of the dowel. Even if the instructions (sometimes included with profiles) talk about using impact dowels, still use the second option.
- Now let’s mark the wall vertically every 30 cm - these lines must coincide with the central axis of the profile, so that for each whole gypsum board there are 4 load-bearing ones. Using these vertical marks, screw the U-shaped hangers 50-70 cm apart to mount the CD.
- Now all we have to do is cut the CD profiles according to required length and insert them into the upper and lower UD, and the side (vertical) UD will serve as load-bearing profiles. To make the plane level, apply a rule or a long level across, taking the vertical UD as a guide (fix the profiles to the hangers and to each other with small cuts).
Advice. The frame can be insulated by laying it between the profiles mineral wool or polystyrene foam - the price of the structure will increase, but the wall will not only become warmer, but also will not buzz when accidentally hit.
Frame for partition
- Now it will be clearer to you how to properly assemble a frame for sheathing with plasterboard under a partition, because the principle remains the same. First of all, use a paint cord to mark off the perimeter in the place where the partition will be located, and along this line, screw the UW profile of the width you need - exactly the same way as you screwed the UD for the sheathing.
- Now all you have to do is cut the CW to the required length and insert them into the UW, screwing them in with self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo above. If you are interested in how to install a frame under drywall in a corner, you can use the same partitions.
- If there is a door in the partition, then make a perimeter for doorway from UW, just put wooden blocks of suitable width inside for rigidity. In the same way, you can strengthen the profiles for hangers or wall cabinets, but still securing thick boards between them.
Drywall is an amazing material. It can be used to level wall surfaces, install new interior partitions, or install suspended ceilings.
Drywall for installing partitions
Typically, such work implies that the installation of plasterboard sheets will be carried out on a frame made of a metal profile. To install plasterboard structures, you can also use a frame made of wood.
Frames are the supporting basis for any plasterboard structures. Making it yourself is not very difficult. The quality of the frame primarily depends on the quality of the material from which it is made.
Installation of a frame for a plasterboard ceiling
Metal or wood?
Load-bearing frames for mounting systems made of sheet plasterboard are of two types, depending on the material used:
- metal (during installation, galvanized steel profile special configuration);
- wooden (that is, installation is carried out with bars and planks, usually made of coniferous wood).
A wooden frame has a significant drawback - it will require special treatment using various wood solutions.
Modern metal profiles are completely easy to work with. Their installation does not require any special knowledge. This kind of work can be easily handled by a person who has never had anything to do with installing drywall before. By choosing a metal profile for the frame, you are guaranteed to create a fairly durable and very reliable design ceiling.
The timber frame profile system will good option for rooms with a dry and moderately warm microclimate, where there are no significant temperature changes. But such construction material it needs to be specially processed using various solutions, and besides, it is not as durable as metal.
Tools for installing a ceiling frame system
Taking into account the selected frame option, the kit necessary tools will be divided into two groups.
For a metal frame:
- scissors for cutting metal (you can use a grinder or a hacksaw);
- screwdriver or electric screwdriver with a set of attachments;
- hammer drill with drill. If necessary, attach to concrete or brick walls;
- building levels of different lengths;
- drywall screws and metal screws.
Tools needed to install a drywall frame
For a wooden frame:
- nails of various sizes;
- jigsaw or hacksaw;
- hammer;
- building level;
- hammer drill with drill.
Types of profiles that must be used to construct steel frames
Rack profiles
They are used in the manufacture of frames when installing plasterboard ceilings. There are three grooves on its surface for easy precise centering of screws and ceiling hangers; They are metal strips in cross-section shaped like the letter “C”.
Guide profiles
Used to attach the ceiling frame to the wall. There is a groove in the middle, which is intended to strengthen the profile and for the convenience of centering self-tapping screws when installing similar frame structures. Usually made of galvanized metal, which has corrugated walls for structural rigidity. They are metal strips cut in the shape of the letter “U”.
For proper installation of the frame structure, the dimensions of the guides and ceiling profiles must match.
For high-quality manufacturing of the frame design, you will need some additional materials and elements:
- brackets;
- ceiling suspensions with rods;
- anchor;
- dowel - nails.
Guide profile for plasterboard ceiling frame
Step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on a wall
Let us dwell on the intricacies of making a frame for installing plasterboard sheets to level the walls. This requires the presence of metal profiles (rack and guides), the above fasteners, as well as a set of tools. To ensure installation occurs at the appropriate level, prepare everything necessary for this in advance.
Stage 1. Marking.
To get started, you need to correctly apply markings to the base surfaces. If there are irregularities on the walls, they do not need to be removed, but simply need to be taken into account when applying markings. It is necessary to make a certain indentation from the wall surface, i.e. you need to draw a marking line parallel to the one that defines the boundary of the placement of the entire frame structure, consisting in depth of the thickness of the plasterboard sheet, the thickness of the guide profiles and the space from the wall to the profiles, which is intended for placing insulation and communication systems. When applying markings, be sure to take into account the unevenness of the walls to avoid cramping.
Installation of drywall on the wall
Counting from this mark, you need to retreat to the wall a gap that is equal to the thickness of the drywall sheet and draw a marking line. Thus, the location of the frame border is marked. These markings are moved to the ceiling surface. What can be done using a simple plumb line or a laser plane builder.
If a wooden frame is planned, although its installation involves some nuances, its assembly in this case is almost the same, and the markings are carried out in exactly the same way.
Errors that are possible when markings are applied incorrectly will result in uneven or, generally, crooked walls, completely regardless of the quality of the profile installation.
Stage 2. Installation of the frame.
First, you need to install the profile guides, i.e., secure the profile to the floor surface, and then secure it to the ceiling. To do this, apply the profile bar to the marked marking line, level it, and only then attach it to the floor and base ceiling using dowel-nails and self-tapping screws. The distance between the placement of fasteners required for reliable fastening should not exceed 1 m.
Then the installation of direct ceiling hangers is carried out, which will fix the position of the rack profiles. But first you need to find out the position of the racks.
To do this, take the width of the sheet of drywall used. The required step between the locations of the centers of the racks should be equal to exactly this indicator. The hangers are attached to the wall surface using dowels. If it is necessary to install intermediate racks, the step between them is no more than 1 m.
The leveling of the installation of the structure must be controlled using a plumb line or long level.
Stage 3. Installation of vertical profile guides (racks).
To install the racks, they must be inserted into the cavities of the horizontal guide profiles at the bottom and top. Checking the installation by level, as well as the structure itself, must be controlled using a plumb line or a long level. Next, the racks are secured with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles and only after that they are securely attached to the hangers.
Stage 4. Installation of crossbars.
You can add additional reinforcement to the metal frame - make jumpers from scraps of the rack profile. Expand profile to right size You can use a grinder or metal scissors, and installation is done with self-tapping screws. The same is true with wood, but with the use of a hacksaw and simple nails.
Instructions for installing a frame interior partition
Stage 1. Marking.
Markings are applied to the main surface: the boundaries of the frame and the partition itself are marked. If the project includes doors, mark them.
We install guide profiles. As a rule, they are 3 m long, if necessary, cut them and then attach them to the floor and ceiling. In places where door openings are marked, they simply bend the corners. The profile is secured with self-tapping screws.
Stage 3. Installation of rack profiles.
Rack profiles are mounted similarly to guides. Their presence is mandatory in the future doorway.
Stage 4. Checking verticality.
Check for verticality with a level or plumb line and secure the racks using self-tapping screws or a special cutter. The recommended distance between the placed racks (except for those located in the door opening) should be about 60 cm.
Stage 5. Installation of crossbars.
We insert the transverse jumpers made from the rack profile into the vertical rack and guide profile, and then fasten them. The structure is attached using self-tapping screws.
Instructions for installing a frame for a suspended ceiling made of sheet plasterboard
Suspended ceiling designs are also created using sheet plasterboard, which perfectly hide the presence of communication systems on the ceiling surface, electrical wiring or uneven surfaces of the main ceiling. However, in this case, you will need to mount a frame made of metal profiles.
Stage 1. Marking.
First you need to do the marking. Draw on the surface the boundary of the planned suspended ceiling, that is, use a level to draw a marking line on the walls. Next, you need to outline the location of the hangers (as was described in the example of a wall frame).
Stage 2. Installation of guide profiles.
Using dowels and nails, guide profiles of the structure are installed along the general perimeter of the room (along the marked line for mounting the frame).
Stage 3. Installation of ceiling suspensions.
Ceiling hangers are installed along the marked lines on the ceiling. These fasteners regulate the level of the frame and its attachment to the ceiling. Note that the distance from one suspension to another should be approximately 60 cm. They are attached to the ceiling using anchors or dowels.
Stage 4. Installation of the rack profile.
The rack profile is cut to the required length, and then inserted into the guide profiles and secured with self-tapping screws, and then mounted to the hangers.
Stage 5. Installation of transverse profiles.
The cross profile strip is inserted into the rack profile. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that to the supporting profile plasterboard sheet will be attached to its long sides, but to the transverse side with short ones, and therefore convenient distance There should be 40 cm or 60 cm between the locations of the transverse profiles. The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Stage 6. Installation control.
Using a thread stretched from one wall to the opposite, we level the horizontal plane with ceiling hangers, bending their ends when the required level is reached.
Installation of a plasterboard arch