Wooden gates: beautiful, reliable and affordable (23 photos). Wooden gates - created by nature Do-it-yourself wooden gates at the dacha

Good afternoon, today I will tell you about all-all methods of making gates with your own hands. In this article we will make swing WOODEN gates... But I also talked about metal gates in as much detail as possible - in a special article Metal gates – 50 photo ideas (from forging to metal profiles).

So... today you will find out ALL THE SECRETS... and all the principles... and the nuances of that how to properly make a wooden gate yourself - from scratch - without any skills in this field. At all! That is, you can be a green newlywed student... or a beginning summer resident-retirement... or a pampered city lady who inherited a village house... or anyone. If you need a NEW WICKET for your dacha or garden... then... my article is designed just for that TO TEACH you how to make any wickets brilliantly- either for yourself, or for sale to neighbors... Believe me, having assessed your skill, the neighbors themselves will come running to you with the desire to buy the same model of gate (... what a good dacha business... and fun at the same time).

Now let's get down to business... Making and installing gates - who knows, maybe this will be your new profession... with my light hand.

Here's what we'll do:

Wooden SLATT WICKETS ON A FRAME (several types)
Wooden FRAME gates (with sheathing or lathing)
Wooden WICKETS-PORTALS (with pergola-sheathing)
Wooden gates with ROUND ARCHES (designer and simple)

Yes, yes, all this - you WILL WANT and BE ABLE to do it yourself...After reading this article...

So, let's go... Chapter one... Let's start with something simple (so as not to frighten off faith in the success of the wicket project)...

Wooden garden gates - SLATT (i.e. made of slats, boards)

Everyone has seen gates like this everywhere... in old movies about village life... in your barefoot childhood on summer holidays with your grandmother... at your friends' dacha.

These gates are called FRAME... because... they have a FRAME-HOLDER onto which the laths are stuffed.

That is, this is the SIMPLE MODEL of a gate for a summer house or garden - which consists of two parts - a FRAME... and PADDING SLATS.

Here in the picture (above and below) we see a standard gate WithZ-shaped frame. That is, first we do letter shaped frameZ, and then we stuff 6-8 wide or narrow slats (boards) onto it. The hinges for hanging the gate to the post are attached to the horizontal beams of the “letter Z” of our frame.
As you can see (in the photo below)... you can attach NOT SLATS to the sides of the gate... but THICKER BAR... for the solidity of the product.

Hinges may be different - the main thing when choosing hinges is to take into account the LOAD that these hinges will bear. The heavier the gate you make, the stronger the fastening loops should be. Hinged gates are called swing gates... because they swing open, i.e. open in one direction.

Here another option THE SAME principle of creating a slatted gate (on a frame in the shape of the letter z)

But with ONE DIFFERENCE... here are the padding slats different lengths...longer in the center, shorter towards the edges.

And it turns out beautiful wave along the top edge of the gate.

Or... look see the photo of the gate below - what an interesting addition that was invented here!!! Alternating low and high slats...

By the way, the frame here is ordinary (not the letter Z), but simply two slats at the bottom and top (this is done for beauty, so as not to distract attention from the original sheathing)

... And it's worth it... look how interesting the CRATCH is made...

The slats go CLOSE to each other - they are packed WITHOUT GAPS...

but... long and short ALTERNATE...

That is, we are for the sheathing we prepare 2 GROUPS OF RACKS — LONG group and SHORT group... And we do it so that within their group the slats are also not the same in length (one central one is the longest, next to it there are 2 shorter ones, then 2 more shorter ones... and so on to the edges.

We do SACK PACKING WITH ALTERNATING groups... and sizes...that is, CLOSER TO THE EDGES we stuff slightly shortened slats... and CLOSER TO THE CENTER we stuff slightly longer ones.
As you can see... small change...(the designer just played with the long slats) - and what a beauty it turned out to be.

Now let's talk about the frame - for such SLATT FRAME WICKETS.

As we already understood...

... A FRAMEWORK for our country gate may look like not just in letter shapeZ …

Here in the pictures of the gates below - we see what can be done another frame for stuffing slats. As hourglass...or in the form of a triangle... any frame silhouette will be correct. The main thing is that it fulfills its task - holding the nailed sheathing boards.
Therefore, you can come up with your own frame shape (and this way and that way will be correct). Nothing limits your imagination. It all depends on what kind of cut beams you found in your yard... and how much weight your metal hanging hinges for the future gate will withstand... (the more beams on the frame, the heavier the weight of the finished gate will be).

Here - in fact, you have already learned how to make a frame gate...

... AND IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THIS Wicket and swing GATES - IN THE SAME STYLE, then here’s a photo idea for you... (gate, gate and fence - all made by the hands of Homo sapiens)

Front view (nice)

Rear view - so you understand what kind of frame there is at the gate... see? Curved cross beams...very nice.
(don't be alarmed bent beam shapes in the frame... we will now gradually approach this)

And here’s something else I’d like to add about frame wooden gates...

If your entrance portal to the yard is TOO WIDE, then the swing gate can be wide, double-leaf... Consist of two halves swinging in different directions. Here is a close-up photograph of her, it will be useful for those who need it.

Now we will talk about the FRAME frame for gates...

WOODEN GATES - WITH FRAME...

LET'S LOOK HOW THIS IS DONE FRAME WICKET on specific example from the photo of the gate below. I even I'll draw an assembly diagram such a gate - because clarity in pictures is always clearer than just “a lot of beech trees.”

Such a gate is made according to the principle -

knocked down a FRAME from the bars...
filled the frame with SHIATING or lathing (made of boards, slats, plywood)

The beams can be connected using SCREWS... long screws are screwed in diagonally... at an angle.

OR... you can connect the bars of the gate using the GROOVE-PIN method... The bars in their side have GROOVE HOLES (grooves)... and at their ends they have EARS-PINS - the ears are driven into the grooves (with a wooden hammer) and due to this, the frame elements are fastened.

On the diagram of the stages of ASSEMBLY OF SUCH A FRAME WICKET - we see on the vertical beams of the upper sheathing - these same ears... with them they are inserted into the holes on the bottom beam - and the upper beam of the frame is put on them (with their drilled grooves-holes they fall into the ears of the sheathing beams).

Of course you are interested STEP 3... you probably have a question: “What are these pins sticking out on the beams? And where can I get them?

I'LL TELL YOU. We will fasten these beams in the same way as balusters are fastened wooden stairs (gee-gee, you don’t know what balusters are?) These are the same sticks that are driven into the stair step with one end and into the railing with the other - they make up stair railing which prevents children from falling down flights of stairs)
Here's what they look like... using the example of this carved BALOPEST... (by the way, at your gate, no one forbids you to use NOT SIMPLE... but CARVED frames lathing - it will be absolutely super).

So these are the same baluster beams are fastened using the PIN METHOD... Here's how to do it yourself. We need a thick drill... and the same cutting thickness wooden stick(this will be the pins) (hmm, even simple hardwood pencils will do for this role, they will hold very well).

So, stocked up with a drill and pins... let's start the process. At the end of our future slats, we drill a hole of such thickness that our wooden stick-pin fit through tightly. We drill to such a depth that this stick will fit in there only partially, 2-5 cm is enough... and so that 2-5 cm of the stick will remain sticking out...

And in this way, having made pins on the beams of the sheathing... and holes on the beam of the gate frame... we will attach the sheathing beams to the wicket FRAME.

As you can see, everything is simple. According to the laws mechanical physics(to enhance strength, you can coat the pins with any wood glue).

These gates from the photo below are made using approximately the SAME TECHNOLOGY...

That is, you can come up with your designs… the main thing is to adhere to a single principle YOU NEED A FRAME... and you need ITS FILLING (in the form of sheathing with a board or batten... or in the form of plywood sheathing)

WHAT WILL THE FRAME OF THE FORM BE – it’s up to you...

See how simple it really is...

You take it and do it - just 2 steps... 1) Made a FRAME... 2) Made it FILLING. And everything is ready - drill holes, hang your new gate on the hinges... And call the neighbors to grab it...

And then... and swing gates can be made according to the same principle of FRAME + LATING and SHIRTING... Beauty... And simplicity...

A swing WICKET can have a FRAME OF ANY SHAPE...

Even curved with graceful curves... and lopsided (with an oblique slope of the upper part)... Like here, for example (photo of the gate below).

Bent FRAME elements (for the frame of the gate) - cut from a wide thick board (or wide beam) - ordinary circular saw.

Here's another option for a FRAME WICKET with BENT beams... If you can order such bent beam elements, then the shape of your gate can become more interesting...

Or such a BENDED FORM can be just CUT FROM A SOLID WIDE AND THICK BOARD... Draw on the board with a pencil the rounded outlines of the future (right and left) frame - and cut it out with a circular saw. After assembling the frame– of three elements – two bent side beams and one lower straight beam.

Inside the frame - we insert a frame from a MIDDLE BEAM... two CROSSED BEAM. Filling the lower part of the wicket frame plywood sheathing(we just stuff a sheet of plywood)… and top part fill it with a beautiful diagonal sheathing of slats.

Or here’s another COMPLETELY ROUNDED GATE...

Yes, I agree, this gate in the photo below is made of metal (those who looked closely at the photo noticed)... BUT... what is stopping us from making the same model of the gate in wood. Bars... slats... yes please!!! If only there were pens with a hammer... and eyes with a twinkle...

Hint for those with an idea– semicircular elements of the sheathing... we cut out a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw... we draw such “arcs are not very wide” and cut them out with a jigsaw as in labor lessons at school... And the upper arc-shaped beam... we saw out Not from thin plywood... and from thick boards, with a circular saw.

Filling of the wicket frame can be CONTINUOUS (i.e. without holes)…

For example, you can simply nail up a wooden frame with boards HORIZONTALLY... (as in the photo below)...

Or nail it up with boards DIAGONALLY... now I’ll tell you step by step how such a gate is made...

We make a frame for the gate - we make it from beams (it can be rectangular, it can be with a rounded top)
A narrow strip is tacked onto the inner sides of the frame... tightly... tacked at an angle.
And then, onto this inner narrow river, a board is placed at an angle... and it is placed on both sides of the gate - on the front and on the back. To avoid holes... we stuff the board onto slats WITH SPACE between the boards 2 times narrower than the width of the board itself... Thanks to this, the back, back padding of the board will completely cover these gaps (made by the front front board).

Or maybe a gate fill the bottom with plywood... on top - with boards butt-to-butt... and for beauty on the bottom sheet of plywood sheathing fill a thin lath - in the form of a diagonal lattice pattern. And paint it one color.

IN SHORT DON'T BE AFRAID... Do it. It’s clear in the picture... it’s simple in reality.

You can start with the simplest options... Everything will work out... and you will be proud of yourself - so skillful and skilled (oh boy, he's in great demand!!!)

And also... if you have some extra money... or a good blacksmith you know... then such a FRAME wicket can be supplemented with forging elements... That is, in the sheathing of the gate, use NOT WOODEN BALOSTS... but metal picket fence - forged or welded. Here's how it was done in the photo of the gate below.

And we continue...

AND NOW IT WILL BE ABSOLUTELY COOL))))

WOODEN GATES… WITH ENTRANCE PORTAL…

Portal to another world... Oh! how beautiful and promising it sounds... But it’s really your territory... your garden... this is another world, with an atmosphere of comfort and hospitality that you and your family have created yourself.

So why not make the gate in the form of a PORTAL to happiness...

The simplest option is in the photo below. It looks good if there are tall bushes... lush trees... or a plant crawling along the portal.

And in the photo below we see how small arc-shaped wire frame thrown between the left and right support posts of the gate. The wildly blooming bindweed is specially thrown onto this iron wire pergola - and a beautiful portal strewn with flowers is created... The gate opens and, passing under the flowery arch, we feel a wonderful aroma.

Also... the entrance portal to the garden can be decorated in the form of a PERGOLA...(a pergola is columns supporting a sheathing of beams). On the “Family Heap” website I devoted several articles to these wonderful structures... see . Pergolas - how to make it yourself SIMPLE LESSONS.

This is how here - 4 beams on the left and right - hold two horizontal beams... they are covered with a sheathing of boards. The gate can be any (in the photo below we see a forged gate)

And here is another version of the PERGOLA-PORTAL...

There’s nothing terrible here either... it’s just something bad in appearance...

but in fact... when looking at the X-ray... we see what is here...

... 2 powerful thick beams each hold a BEAM WITH SLOTS... there are three slots... (the beam-column holds this beam with the help of an ordinary metal foot-thrust - they are black with 4 screws in the photo)
There are 3 horizontal boards placed in the slot...
and on top of the boards there is padding and lathing with thick slats.

All! We're done!

Your little son has already built something like this out of Legos... but your construction set will be larger, and that’s the whole difference.

The diagram, as you can see, is not complicated (9th grade drawing). We took a friend to help and started a grandiose project... And we already know how to make a gate (note, a frame one) (we just learned how).

And here’s another model of a garden gate - with a canopy roof... it’s a little overgrown with bindweed... but through the green foliage you can see what’s here...

supporting columns... 2 on the left and 2 on the right...
We place a beam on each pair of columns - a left beam and a right beam.
On these side bars - we put the roof on... the drawing of the canopy roof will be in the form two silhouettes of the letter A, made from beams. You need 2 such beam beeches-A (back frame and front frame) that are connected to each other by a beam - the ends of which are nailed to the tops of these beeches A.

And the model of the gate from the first lesson of our article is a regular frame in the shape of the letter Z - and a lathing with a board - which was then (after stuffing onto the frame) cut out in a semicircle with a saw. It turned out very tender.

Wooden gates WITH ARCHED VOX…

And here is another type of design of frame gates for the garden... This is when the SUPPORTING POSTS of our gate continue upwards - forming arched bend.

That is, we made a gate... installed support pillars... hung on the gate (with metal loops) ... and we live ... And suddenly we wanted to add something ... And we decide to make an ARCHED VOX ...

On a thick board (the same thickness as the support pillars) we draw halves of the arc - cut them out - fasten one together common arc- and install it on the support pillars - one edge of the arc on one pillar - the second on another pillar. Fastening the arc elements can be done using the same SLOT-PIN METHOD (which I talked about earlier in this article).

Here are more variations on the same theme...
A) gray gate - here we insert an arc between the supporting posts of the gate - and attach it to the screws. And we also cut out the board panel of the gate itself according to a round stencil.

B) green gate - to the arched structure of the supporting pillars, WE ADD PILLARS HOLDING THE PERGOL... along which the green vine climbs.

Usually these fences are always made of brick(this is the most economical material) ... and then they are either plastered ... and painted in a color you like. Nearby you can hang a flashlight(very cozy and fabulous)... and there will definitely be more greenery around effect of an old Italian house.

Or the facade of such a brick arch-fence is covered with tiles imitating stone.

And also... wooden gates can be made from RAW WOOD... or rather, processed by time... and not by a carpentry machine

WICKETS FROM DRY STAND... DRY BAGS AND BRANCHES.

If you live in an area rich in windfall and dead wood, then you don’t have to go far to get material for a gate.
Here are some delicate designer things you can do for your garden...
Precisely as garden gate I propose this option. For the front part of the house, such a gate, of course, will not be suitable... but for a corner of peace and quiet, for a lush overgrown corner of your hacienda, such a gate will be very useful (if this is permissible by the overall design concept of your garden).

And here is an example of a gate made of the same beams and branches.

That's all for today... That's how many wooden swing gates we did it today - in our minds... Now all that remains is to do it with our own hands - in life.

I really hope this article has given you COURAGE and the itch for CREATIVE EXPERIMENT.

Now the spirit of the COOPER sits in you. It's time to go look for beams and boards suitable for your idea... or, on the contrary, push the birth of an idea away from the materials available.

And this article was written (and in some places drawn) by a woman.

Because... only a woman can inspire a man to create beauty. What I actually did these two days for a solid 16 hours.
So go and create (and I’ll go and finally eat...)

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site

Take care of your family heaps... These are your legs and arms.
These are your ears and eyes... and a source of warmth and affection.

If did you like this article
And you want to thank the free author for this painstaking work,
then you can send any amount convenient for you
on his personal YaD wallet - 410012568032614

Even with today's abundance of a wide variety of building materials, many home craftsmen make wooden gates with their own hands. Their love for wood is understandable. Hardly any modern material will surpass it in beauty and ability to enliven the appearance of any structure. Certainly, wooden crafts are not without drawbacks, including:

high fire hazard;
low moisture resistance;
relatively short service life;
low surface strength;
large mass.

In addition, wooden gates require frequent maintenance (for example, painting). Nevertheless, there are a lot of remedies that eliminate wood from most of its shortcomings. These include:

flame retardants;
antiseptic impregnations;
various paint and varnish coatings.

We must not forget about the correct choice of wood for gate construction. Most suitable for this purpose conifers tree, but best characteristics Larch is moisture resistant and durable. At the same time, its wood is the heaviest, so larch structures, gate frames and support posts must be especially strong. A cheap alternative is pine. It is less durable, but much lighter than dense larch.

Once upon a time, wooden gates were made with virtually no other materials. Even logs dug into the ground were used as pillars. Only awnings, nails, or some decorative elements were forged from iron. And today forged parts are in demand, but installing wooden poles no longer makes sense. Instead, it is more advisable to install steel or brick ones. In extreme cases, pipe supports can be masked with wooden overlays, but they will only serve a design function.

Wooden gates on a metal frame

Do-it-yourself door frames and gates for wooden gates can be made from wood or metal profiles.

Figure 1. Drawing of a wooden gate.

What the combined design looks like is shown in the diagram (Fig. 1). First, we will make such a structure; such a project is the easiest to implement, especially for a person who knows how to handle a welding machine.

To build a gate, you can use the diagram presented. You may have to make some changes to it regarding the height of the structure and the width of the sashes. You need to start work with measurements and drawing up a drawing not only in order to complete it efficiently, but also to purchase the required amount of consumables:

profile pipes 80 x 80 mm for pillars;
profile pipes 40 x 40 (40 x 20) mm for sash frames and jibs;
boards 100 x 25 mm for covering gates and wickets;
ball loops with a cross-section of at least 25 mm;
self-tapping screws for metal;
locking fittings;
steel plates for plugs at the ends of pillars;
cement, sand and crushed stone;
various impregnations for processing metal and wood.

You will also need:

sander;
welding machine;
jigsaw (hacksaw, circular saw);
drill-driver;
square;
level;
plumb line;
roulette;
shovel or drill.

Mark the locations of the supports and dig or drill holes. The diameter of the pits must be at least 20 cm larger than the cross-section of the pipes. The pillars must be dug into the ground at least 1/3 of the length. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured into the holes. Its thickness is 10-15 cm. The bedding is compacted and soaked in water. Pillars are installed in the pits, but before digging them in you should:

plug at the ends (the bottom plug must be larger than the cross-section of the pipe);
remove rust;
treat with an anti-corrosion compound;
cover the lower third of the column with bitumen mastic.

The supports are installed by level or plumb. Reinforcement is placed in the holes and concrete is poured. While it hardens, gate frames and wickets are made.

Manufacturing and hanging sashes

The ends of the profile pipes are cut at a right angle or an angle of 45°. The posts and horizontal lintels are assembled together on a flat surface. A square is used to check how correctly the doors are assembled (more precisely, the quality of assembly is checked with a tape measure, which measures the diagonals of the structure). The vertical and horizontal frame elements are finally welded. The jibs are cut out and also welded to the frames. Installation of shutters and gates is carried out only 2 weeks after pouring the pits under the supports with concrete.

Gate open position limiter: 1 – post, 2 – latch, 3 – leaf frame.

Before hanging the hinges, all frames should be securely fixed between the posts. After this, the installation locations for the canopies are marked. They are then welded to the supports and frames. Locking fittings are installed on the doors and gates. All structures are cleaned of burrs, scale, rust and covered with an anti-corrosion compound, primer and paint.

Now all that remains is to cover the frames with planed boards. You should know that it will not be possible to make high-quality wooden gates if the wood is not first dried in a place inaccessible to direct sunlight (the drying time for the boards is 1.5-2 weeks). After drying and cutting to size, the lining is sequentially impregnated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Before screwing in the fasteners, holes are made in the boards. After screwing in the screws, they are treated with an antiseptic. The boards do not need to be laid close to each other. It is necessary to leave a small gap between them to compensate for expansion. An equal gap between the sheathing elements will be achieved if strips of the same thickness are laid between them. After its installation, the wood is coated with paint or varnish.

The shape of the gate trim does not necessarily have to be rectangular. In addition, the boards can be placed inside a steel frame made of corrugated pipes or corners. Support pillars can be lined with brick. In this case, mortgages are welded to them, to which the hinges will be attached when installing the gate. Under brick pillars you need to build a foundation, and the cavity inside the masonry is filled with concrete.

Wood frame

Building wooden gates with your own hands, in which not only the cladding is cut out of wood, but also frame elements, is somewhat more difficult than combined gates. In this work, the main thing is to ensure maximum accuracy in measuring parts. The shortcomings in their processing are immediately obvious, and it is very difficult to eliminate them.

Scheme of the corner connection of the gate frame with the hinge: a - corner connection of the wooden gate frame, b - hinge on reinforced concrete pillars, 1 - reinforced concrete pillar, 2 - leaf frame, 3 - barn hinge, 4 - escutcheon, 5 - slab, 6 - nails.

It is quite difficult to ensure sufficient rigidity of a structure made of beams and boards. The connection of the crossbars and sash posts must be done in a tongue-and-groove manner. The spikes are arranged on horizontal elements, and the grooves are on vertical ones. Additionally, the frames are reinforced with jibs and central crossbars.

For racks, lintels and the central crossbar, you need to use a beam with a cross-section of at least 50 x 70 mm.
50 x 50 mm bars will be used for the jib.
For cladding, boards 100 x 25 mm are used.

Installation of wooden gates is carried out after:

digging pillars;
wood planing;
sawing it into blanks;
frame assemblies;
clapboard cladding;
installing hinges.

After planing and sawing, all workpieces are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. The tongue-and-groove joints must be secured with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled through the tenon-grooves in the doors, and wooden rods of larger cross-section are driven into them. Additionally, in places where frame elements engage in advance drilled holes screws are screwed in. The diameter of the holes should be slightly smaller than the cross-section of the fastener. Before the final tightening of the elements, the frame is checked for squareness (the verification method is described above). If necessary, it can be restored by lightly tapping the end parts of the frame with a mallet.

After assembling the racks and crossbars, the jibs are attached to the frame. They go from the corner parts of the frame to the central crossbar. Marking before cutting the jib is best done by attaching the bars to the assembled frame. The corner parts of the bars will be cut in the shape of the letter “L”, and the ends of the crossbars will be cut at an angle of 45°. The boards are attached to the doors with self-tapping screws. Hinges are screwed to the horizontal crossbars. Now the gates are hung on poles.

If you decide that the gate supports should also be wooden, install beams made of larch or oak. In addition to treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant, the part of the pillars immersed in the ground must be coated with melted bitumen.

For many years, wooden gates have been relevant for cottages, country houses and garages. Today, new materials and designs, methods of processing and decorating lumber have appeared, and automatic drives controlled by remote control are widely used. How to make reliable and durable, practical and easy-to-use wooden gates with your own hands? How to properly prepare, protect and decorate wood - find out about this at the planning stage to avoid mistakes.

Wooden gates

Gate designs using wood

Just a few decades ago, wood was the cheapest and most common material. Its availability and ease of processing made it possible to make fences and entrance structures for anyone with basic skills in working with a saw and a plane. Even now there are gates and fences made of untreated boards, mostly temporary products for the period of construction and landscaping of the site.

Drawing of swing gates made of wood

This use of wood is not economically justified and is far from beautiful. Modern wooden gates are an indicator good taste, aesthetics, and in many cases, the status of the owner.

Wood is suitable for swing, sliding and up-and-over gate structures. Lamellas for rolled versions are not made of wood due to the low strength of the joints and the web as a whole.

Up-and-over garage doors

Electric swing gates

Lift-and-swivel version with wood paneling

Wooden parts are often used only as sheathing for an iron frame. For sliding garage doors this is The best decision, so a wooden frame increases the weight and thickness of the sash.

Sliding gates made of wood with a wicket

How to make wooden gates with your own hands

Making a high-quality and beautiful wooden gate with your own hands for a garage or yard is troublesome, but possible. You need to have minimal knowledge of woodworking, have the appropriate tools, patience and perseverance. It is also necessary to know the principles of calculating gates, methods of their installation, types protective coatings and methods of their application. Reasonable imagination and good artistic taste will be useful.

Selection of material for construction

Valuable wood is rarely used in the manufacture of gates; pine is mainly used. Weather resistance, price, beautiful texture and ease of processing are the main advantages of pine lumber.

The suitable board size for making gates is 100×25 mm, timber for the frame is 80×60 mm. After processing, the net size will be 5–10 mm smaller. When purchasing lumber, you need to understand the degree of drying and its purpose.

Edged joinery board

To make gates from wood, in order to avoid deformation, peeling of the coating, and disruption of appearance, it is better to use edged wood boards. The price of such wood is quite high, so you can dry fresh wood in a garage or utility room. It takes one year for boards 25 mm thick to dry, but be sure to reposition them and ensure good ventilation.

Woodworking tools and equipment

To make a wooden garage door with your own hands, you will need a fairly impressive list of equipment, tools and consumables. Ideally you need to have:

jointing machine for processing and shaping workpieces to the desired geometric shape;
thickness planer for bringing to one size;
miter saw for cutting workpieces to length;
grinder or belt grinder (“tank”) with the ability to be mounted on a frame for end processing;
surface grinder or orbital sander for cleaning surfaces;
compressor for the possibility of painting wood with a spray gun;
manual frezer with a conical or semicircular cutter for processing edges;
drill with a set of necessary drills;
screwdriver with a set of bits and sockets;
abrasive consumables, fasteners;
solvent, impregnate, varnish or paint;
level, tape measure, pencil.

Hand tool

Such a list looks like a small carpentry workshop, but it will allow you to quickly and efficiently process unedged board. The list can be reduced by replacing some equipment with hand tools.

You should not try to plan the workpieces with a hand plane or saw with a dull hacksaw - you will not be able to produce a high-quality product “on your knees”. If you do not have a jointing machine, it is better to purchase ready-made planed material (or lining, block house).

Impregnation and painting can be done manually, although the appearance will be worse. In this case, it is better to use a roller rather than a brush, which allows you to apply the product more economically and evenly.

If the gate frame is made from an angle or a steel profile pipe, you will need welding equipment and a mounting saw (or a grinder with cutting and sharpening wheels).

An example of high-quality painting of a gate

After measuring the opening, you should carefully draw a sketch of the future wooden gate to scale, observing the proportions. This will allow you to evaluate the appearance, think about the location of canopies, locks, and decorative fittings.
You should remember about technological gaps (at least 10 mm) for possible expansion and deformation of the structure. The recommended distance from the longitudinal parts of the frame to the edge of the board is about 200 mm; accordingly, canopies will be installed at the same distance.
If the gate height is more than 2 m, an additional middle vein is recommended. With a completely wooden frame, braces are required for strength and stability of the geometry of the structure. For metal frame Instead of braces, it is permissible to use gussets with a leg of at least 150 mm and a thickness of 4 mm.
When sewing the fabric, be sure to leave gaps between the individual boards. Placing them closely, and even more so tightening them with clamps, will lead to deformation and bulging of the canvas (with a smaller radius on the side of the frame) due to the expansion of the boards from moisture.
Placing parts at intervals with deep edge processing can hide errors in the thickness of the boards if they are not processed using a thicknesser. If you need to make the canvas without gaps, you will have to use a tongue-and-groove board or with selected quarters.

Cutting a board with a miter saw

Manufacturing and assembly of gates

The most logical and simple question of making a wooden gate with your own hands for a garage or yard seems to be this: measure the opening, assemble a frame to size, sew it up with a board and paint it. But to achieve a beautiful and durable result, the process is much more complicated. Approximate technological instructions looks like that:

Using a miter saw, cut the board to length with allowance for finishing.
Mark with an allowance along the width and cut the workpiece.
Process the base surface on a jointer.
Using a 90º stop, machine the side surface.
On planer finish the workpiece, first bringing the side surfaces to size, and then the back. With a final pass with a minimum allowance, process the base surface again. It is clear that when using finished material(same block house) no previous operations are required.
Cut the pieces to length.
Process the ends of the workpiece (sandpaper using a machine or device according to ISO-6344 - P80). This operation is very important and allows you to achieve a smooth and even surface on the edges of the board. Subsequently, this will simplify the impregnation and painting of the product and significantly increase its service life.
Process and cut the wooden frame parts in the same way. If the frame is iron, make it, maintaining the diagonals and parallelism of the parts.
Lay out the frame parts (metal frame) on a flat surface and arrange the boards in the desired order.
Mark the position of the parts and the locations of future holes (for self-tapping screws, bolts; for fastening fasteners, decorative elements).
Sign the arrangement and numbering of parts. This is usually done from the bottom end, since the inscription will be visible after painting.
Drill holes in the required places.

Working with a spray gun

Impregnation and coloring of wood

To obtain a high-quality painted surface, the service life of which will be at least 5–8 years without additional maintenance, the following sequence of work is recommended:

Treat the surfaces with a grinder (abrasive P120 - P150). If necessary, fill the defects with a special wood putty and rub them in.
Soak up wooden parts impregnate (for example, Vidaron). It is better to do this with a spray gun or an ordinary garden sprayer. Follow the instructions for use - exceeding the concentration of the solution will lead to destruction of the wood structure and its fragility. After drying, treat the wood again, Special attention focusing on the ends.
After the impregnant has completely dried, sand the parts again (P150 - P180 sandpaper).
If you plan to varnish, apply stain or a special toner (alcohol or acetone based). Sometimes color is added by burning wood. blowtorch, you don’t have to tint it at all. If painting is carried out using products with added toner (such as Pinotex), apply the first layer.
After complete drying, manually and very carefully sand the surfaces with P400 - P600 sandpaper. It is more convenient to use a sanding block (which looks like a dishwasher).
Apply the first coat of varnish (or a second coat of toner), sand again after drying.
Apply the final coat of varnish.
After drying, lay out all the parts (according to the previously signed diagram) and assemble the gate, strictly controlling the dimensions and diagonals.
Install strictly at the level of the gate leaf.

Sanding block

Features of manufacturing sliding gates

Sliding gates for the site and garage are gaining more and more popularity due to the functionality, convenience and ease of electric drive equipment.

Sliding gate diagram

Structurally, such gates are divided into three types, each with its own advantages:

with a load on the bottom guide and support rollers on top;
moving along the top guide and support rollers at the bottom;
console type without top and bottom guides.

Wide sliding sash

To make wooden sliding gates with your own hands, you need to meet certain conditions and dimensions.

The gate leaf itself is usually a rigid frame made of a corner, channel or profile pipe, covered with wood.

Required measurements for sliding gates

Fittings and carvings - stylish decorations

In antique-style wooden gates, the fittings play not only a functional, but also a decorative role. Iron and copper strips, bolts and nails with large heads, forged elements, handles. Everything depends only on the author’s imagination.

You can make many decorations and elements yourself. For example, swept awnings can be made like this:

Weld a steel strip (approximately 400x100x6 mm in size) to the top of an ordinary cylindrical hinge.
Then heat the strip (with a cutter or in an oven) and hammer it on a flat surface. In this case, the side adjacent to the wooden plane will remain flat, and the front will have the appearance of a forged product.
Using a grinder and a sharpener, process the side surfaces, giving the canopy its original shape.

Antique gates with original fittings

Wooden gates decorated with carvings, sculptures, and bas-reliefs look rich and elegant. For these purposes, pine is not best material due to the heterogeneous structure ( tree rings, having the appearance of veins in a board loosened along the length, much harder than the rest of the material). Therefore, linden, a homogeneous and easy-to-work wood, is often used for carving.

It is almost impossible to decorate a gate with carvings yourself without the appropriate skills and tools. If desired, you can order carved elements from specialized workshops and decorate the doors yourself. It should be remembered that the durability and service life of such products is much less than that of a smooth board.

Gates with forged parts

Examples of beautiful and original gates

Everyone wants the exterior of their house, garage and plot to be harmonious and unique. Installing wooden gates perfectly meets these requirements. Various styles and appearance, reliability and durability, the ability to combine with the fencing of the site, organic integration into the landscape - all the advantages are countless.

Before making a gate, it is worth looking at and evaluating ready-made solutions; this will allow you to decide on the design and appearance.

The main decision you need to make is to turn to specialists or believe in your own abilities and make a yard or garage door out of wood with your own hands. Think carefully about what is more important – economy or quality.

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For owners of private houses, the times have come when absolutely everything can be purchased for landscaping. But many people prefer to do everything themselves, which significantly reduces costs and is a source of pride for the owner. If the fence is made of wood, then it would be logical to make wooden ones, and besides, they are not at all difficult to make with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden gates

Wood is a cheap and practical material that can be easily processed. Gates made from this material are lightweight, environmentally friendly and will fit perfectly into the style of almost every home due to its natural appearance.

At the same time, this material is not without certain disadvantages, since it requires constant processing and care. Wooden gates are not very strong and durable, and are also susceptible to fire. But with proper maintenance this can be avoided.

Preparatory work

Before you begin the actual production of wooden gates, you need to prepare everything. First of all, you should make measurements and a drawing. If there are no special skills to draw up a professional drawing, it will be enough to schematically display the main elements and dimensions on paper.

When taking measurements, you should establish the length between the two ends of the fence. Divide the resulting value in half - this will be the approximate width of one sash. To determine the exact size of the sash, you should take into account the width of the support pillars, and also set a gap for installing hinges that will connect the support posts to the sash.

The optimal height of the gate is considered to be 2 meters, while the support pillars should be about 3 meters, since about 1 meter needs to be buried in the ground.

roulette;
level;
screwdriver;
plane;
wood hacksaw;
welding machine;
self-tapping screws

The material should be selected carefully. The presence of knots and blue stains on the surface of the tree is unacceptable. Support posts can be made from metal pipes or wooden beams. Regardless of the material chosen, the cross-section of the supports must be at least 15 centimeters. To make the sashes you need the following:

metallic profile;
wooden boards with a section of 10 x 2.5 cm.

To attach the sashes to the supports, 4 hinges are required. Having calculated the amount of material that is needed to make the gate, you should take into account that you need to take it a little with a reserve.

Manufacturing and installation of gates

Despite the fact that the manufacture and installation of wooden swing gates is a simple process, a certain sequence in the stages of work must still be observed.

Installation of supports

First of all, it is necessary to install the support pillars. If the support is metal, then it must be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent, and if it is wooden, then with an antiseptic. Next, two holes are dug to a depth of at least 1 meter. The deeper the hole, the more stable the structure will be. It is recommended to add some crushed stone to the bottom of the hole. When installing wooden poles, the part that will be in the ground should be treated with a bitumen solution, which will prevent the wood from rotting.

The pillars are inserted into the holes and filled with concrete mixture. The verticality of the installation is controlled using a level, because the reliability and integrity of the entire structure depends on this. At this stage, you should take a break of about 3-5 days so that the concrete hardens and gains the necessary strength.

Manufacturing of sashes

To avoid wasting time, you can start making the sashes while the concrete is hardening. You need to start with the frame. It can be made from wood, but more reliable design will be made of metal profile. Frame parts are cut. Then it must be laid out on a flat surface, aligning the corners, which should be straight. When welding corners, it is recommended to apply additional metal plates to provide stability to the frame.

The rigidity of the frame is achieved using diagonals and a transverse beam. All elements must be welded, and the welding points must be cleaned with a grinder or a special metal brush.

Next you should prepare external cladding. To do this, measure the right size boards - slightly larger than the height of the frame - and cut. Fastening to the frame is done with self-tapping screws. After this, the surface must be thoroughly sanded.

After the sashes are ready, hinges are attached to them. At the final stage of installation, the sashes should be hung on the support posts using hinges. For a more durable gate design, it is better to use welded hinges; they hold the door more rigidly and do not become loose during operation.

The final stage of work

In order for swing wooden gates to serve for a long time, they must be treated antiseptic, which is recommended to be applied in at least two layers. After the antiseptic has completely dried, the surface can be covered with stain and varnish or any wood paint. Considering that wood is prone to fire, it is recommended to treat the openings with a special fire-fighting compound every 3-4 years.

A bolt can be installed on the inside of the sashes, which will serve reliable protection from burglaries. Many swing wooden gates are equipped with an electric drive, with the help of which the doors open and close by pressing the remote control button.

During operation, it is recommended to constantly tint the wooden structure and lubricate the hinges with oil, and then the gate will last long years.

2018-04-09

Setting up a secure garage not only ensures the safety of the car, but also prevents intruders from entering the vehicle. Every car owner strives to have his own garage, since in big cities many cars sleep under open air exposed to harmful influences environment and being an object increased attention from scammers. For the owners country houses and dachas, the task of erecting the said building occupies one of the first lines on the list of priority activities. But excessively high price the manufacture of this design in some cases discourages any desire to implement the plan. The use of wood and the manufacture of some structural elements with your own hands will significantly reduce costs when constructing a garage. An integral part of any building of this type is the gate. For their quality construction You need to familiarize yourself with how to make wooden gates yourself without involving the labor of specialists.

The main advantages of this material are:

Availability and reasonable price. Buy wood products the required grade and required dimensions can be easily obtained from a hardware store or a specialized company. Price policy significantly lower compared to metal.
Easy to process and install. Without special labor Anyone can prepare this material with their own hands. Whereas processing of metal products will require the use of expensive equipment: an angle grinder, welding equipment, etc.
Durability and reliability. With planned regular maintenance, a wooden entrance structure can last for a long time. Compared to metal, a wooden surface is not subject to rust, but requires periodic treatment with special compounds. If one of the sides of the canvas is damaged, replacing old boards with new ones can be done in a matter of hours.

Depending on the tastes and preferences of each owner, any type of gate can be made: a sliding type or a version with a lifting device.

The simplest and most versatile type is swing gates. The manufacturing technology of this element is intuitive and does not require special construction skills from the master.

The main task is to take into account all the subtleties and important features, as well as carry out high-quality measurements and wood processing.

Before preparing the required material and tools, you should draw up a diagram of the future structure and accurately calculate its location. Having finished with these points, it is worth starting to measure the entrance opening. To increase clarity, it would be useful to use the existing sketch and adjust all the values to your option.

Drawing up a detailed sketch will allow you to better navigate the number consumables and components. The construction of the structure involves the use and preparation of the following tools and materials:

timber or metal profile 50×50 mm;
wooden boards having a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 25 mm;
metal hanging hinges;
hacksaw;
roulette;
Bulgarian;
building level;
steel corners;
drill with a set of drills and bits;
chisel;
sandpaper;
primer;
processing compounds;
set of brushes.

When making wooden garage doors, special supports must be prepared in advance. If they are not ready yet, then you will need two wooden beams or logs to make them.

We prepare holes for them with a depth of at least 1.2–1.5 m. When constructing any supporting structure, a simple rule applies: the deeper the pillars are located, the more stable and reliable the gate will be. We cut the workpieces to the required height, taking into account the part of the support that will be in the ground. To increase strength, it would be useful to further strengthen the foundation of future support pillars by filling the bottoms of the recesses with a small amount of crushed stone of the 5×20 fraction and compacting the resulting substrate.

To prevent premature destruction wooden supports it is necessary to treat areas that will be underground with a special water-repellent mastic or resin.

Next, we install the pillars, fix the vertical position according to the building level and fill the recesses with concrete or cement mixture. In addition, to add greater practicality and aesthetics, you can line the concreted areas with large stones or bricks.

Having completed all the preparatory procedures, we proceed to the manufacture of the structure itself.

We cut it according to the dimensions of the entrance opening. wooden beam to the required values and lay it out on a flat place so that it turns out to be a rectangle or square, depending on the type of gate.

We check the horizontality and verticality of the laid out beams, and then drill holes in corner connections and fasten the structure with screws or dowels. It would be useful to additionally strengthen the corners and center of the frame with steel corners and cross beams. The ends of the last products are cut at an angle of 45º, placed crosswise and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Metal can also be used as a basis for the future frame. profile pipes, however, manufacturing will require welding equipment.

The next activity is the production and surface treatment of cladding elements. Depending on the selected material and the size of the sashes, we cut the required number of boards. As a rule, pine is used for cladding, since wooden products made from it have a small specific gravity and the greatest protection from the harmful effects of environmental factors.

The facing boards are placed close to each other and fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. Upon completion, all irregularities are trimmed and processed grinder or fine sandpaper.

To increase the tightness of fit to the frame and maintain temperature regime in a garage, the edges of the doors can be lined with insulation.

Having prepared the gate leaves, we proceed to installation metal hinges. If attached to frame structure We weld the hinged parts directly onto the frame, and in the case of fastening to wooden bases, onto support posts. For determining optimal location location, it is necessary to retreat a distance equal to ¼ of the total height of the pillars from the upper and lower boundaries of the support and mark the location. Then fasten the hinges to the posts and hang the sashes.

The gate is almost ready, all that remains is to prime it and cover the surface with antiseptics. Having given the necessary time for drying, we proceed to placing the fittings: handles, locks and bolts. To give a noble appearance, the gate can subsequently be decorated with various forged elements.

They can be L-shaped metal rods located on the doors. For their operation, it is necessary to place two small sections of pipe with a diameter that ensures free movement of the rod in the intended places of entry into the ground, and also to make a platform on each sash for fixing the handle of the fastener in a raised state.

The procedure for erecting wooden gates with your own hands is a simple undertaking and can be implemented by every person. As with any construction work, to achieve all your goals you must strictly follow the advice of experts, take accurate measurements and use high-quality material. Compliance with all of these points, together with planned periodic maintenance, will ensure reliable operation. entrance gate for many years.