Wooden door for a toilet in a country house. How to make a toilet outdoors. Features of constructing a toilet in a private house

August 5, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

By and large, you can simply provide drawings on how to build a toilet in a country house with your own hands, but I don’t think this is correct, since the principle of arranging a latrine will be omitted. The fact is that no matter how beautiful and durable the architectural structure on top is, 90% of it depends on the arrangement of the sewerage system below.

Therefore, I want to focus your attention on the entire complex, point out the most common mistakes and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Four main mistakes made during construction

Now I want to draw your attention to four points that are often neglected, and since it is best to equip a toilet in a country house well, take them into account when installing and designing:

As you understand, the latrine is the default source unpleasant odors, as well as wastewater that can pollute environment. Despite the whole complex measures that can be used to cancel such consequences (filters, ventilation), there are certain requirements for the distance of the sewerage system from other objects. In your case, three aspects are especially important - remoteness from water sources, roads and neighbor's fence- pay attention to the schematic drawing above.
The second mistake can be called neglect of the foundation, more precisely, its strength, on which the architectural structure is installed. You've probably seen lopsided toilets that are scary to go into! So, this is precisely the consequence of this error.
Following the principle “so that it doesn’t go to waste,” some install regular toilets on the street, not country toilets.. There is practically nothing there to wash them off with (the stored container of water is too small for this purpose), as a result of which unsanitary conditions develop.
And finally, the fourth mistake is neglecting the sheathing- we are not talking about beauty, but about the density of the wall, where there are no drafts. The presence of drafts can lead to dire consequences for your health!

Arrangement of a country toilet

Pit and base

1 - toilet; 2 - beams; 3 - storage tanks; 4 - pipes

Explanation. Upper diagram shows the principle of arranging a toilet with. But we are mainly interested here in the location of the beams on the pit for the foundation of a higher structure.

So, you can attach a toilet and shower room to the house or install it autonomously - in any case you will need storage tank for drains, or connection to a centralized sewerage system.

I will not explain in detail the structure of the septic tank, since this is a separate topic, although we will touch on it briefly, in any case we will have a pit. As with any other container, the main requirements here are capacity and strength (so that the walls do not collapse).

Again, if you do not concrete it or use masonry, then the main attention should be paid to the density of the soil, which determines the likelihood of a landslide. The most durable can be called alumina, as in the photo above, but, nevertheless, this does not guarantee complete stability of the beams. Therefore, when installing beams, they must extend beyond the edges by at least half a meter, and if necessary, if the soil is soft, a meter or more.

Of course, the most the best option there will be a storage tank (concrete or brick plastered) with a lid, which, in fact, will be the basis for installing the toilet. Here you can already vary:

leave it as a cesspool;
or use it as the first settling compartment for a septic tank, although its price, of course, is higher than that of a regular pit.

The most important thing is that the lid will simultaneously serve as an excellent foundation for the higher structure, but the container itself is installed on a sand and crushed stone cushion so that there is no tilting or subsidence.

Wooden toilet

I want to repeat once again that I am not going to offer you a building according to specific dimensions, since this does not make sense due to the differences in conditions and needs. But you will understand how to build the same structure with a brick shower, because the principle itself is important here, not the material.

We continue to consider the topic of how to properly build a toilet and move on to the premises of the superior architectural structure itself. Let's say that you have a pit ready, and you put tarred wooden beams, and perhaps even concrete or metal profiles, which is even better.

Now it is important for us that the floor does not end up on the same level with the ground - raise it by at least 15-20 cm - this will significantly increase its service life, as it will reduce the likelihood of rotting.

Now about geometric parameters structures as containers - a comfortable height from floor to ceiling should be about 200 cm, and the optimal perimeter is about 140x140 cm.

These figures are calculated for almost everyone, but you, of course, can increase such parameters. I simply do not recommend making them smaller, so as not to create a feeling of discomfort.

As for ventilation, it is best if you install it in the back of the pit, behind the toilet. ventilation pipe made of PVC 110 mm in diameter and 50 cm high above the roof of the building itself. In fact, it can be any other pipe, even a brick pipe.

However, PVC is not only convenient, but also economical. Please note that if there is a residential building nearby (closer than 4-5m), then the pipe, naturally, should be higher than it, so that the smell does not penetrate into the room through the windows.

Now let's pay attention to the roof - it is usually either gable or single-pitch. From a technological point of view, there is no difference, but from a technical point of view, the amount of work increases.

In addition, if there are no special claims to architectural individuality, then it is best to use only one slope - you will not only save labor costs, but you will use much less materials.

Try to close it tightly - use false strips or at least pieces of rubber to do this, securing them around the perimeter of the door leaf. This will protect the inside from snow. And if you use such a toilet in winter, it will be much warmer there.

Conclusion

You can undoubtedly build a wooden or even brick toilet with your own hands - it’s quite simple. For a sample, you can take one of the drawings from this article and substitute your dimensions. If you have interesting suggestions, write about it in the comments.

August 5, 2016

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It is difficult to imagine our people without a summer cottage in the suburbs, but it is even more difficult to imagine a summer cottage without an equipped toilet. Even if you don’t have a house to live in at your dacha, you still need to build a toilet. Even if you come to the site for a short time, in order to work, water the soil or relax, in any case you will need a toilet. The construction instructions are very simple, and construction is inexpensive.

Before you start building a country toilet with your own hands, you need to find photo drawings first, and then choose a place for construction.

Despite the first glance, the simplicity of the toilet design is summer cottage, it belongs to the main buildings. The most important building on the site is the bathroom; many will confirm that it is simply impossible to be outside the city without it.

Of course, a toilet that is built on the street is no substitute for a comfortable restroom; it will only provide some amenities. But without it it is impossible to fully work on personal plot.

You need to know the sanitary standards for building a toilet and create a building specified by them.

Construction of a toilet is not particularly difficult and does not require the involvement of specialists.

But some features must be observed in the construction.

Basic standards:

Comfortable spot for the construction of a toilet. A poor location can lead to contamination of the area around the structure, soil, and water. Therefore, failure to comply with sanitary standards and ignorance can lead to health problems and fines from the sanitary service.
Make sure that construction will not cause inconvenience to neighbors.
Consider a method for how devastation will occur cesspool.
If the groundwater level is high, then the construction of the toilet must be well sealed to avoid water contamination.

How to choose and build a country toilet with your own hands, photos and what types of designs there are:

There are enough options for choosing the construction of a toilet, but the choice may be influenced by:

The budget allocated for the construction of the toilet;
Frequency of use of this structure;
Groundwater height level;
Funds allocated for repairs and waste disposal.

The most popular and most common are toilets where the base is a cesspool. It contains waste, which is then absorbed into the soil, but sometimes you still need to call a sewer truck to clean the pit. The frequency of cleaning and calling for vacuum cleaners depends on how deep the waste pit is, but this procedure can be very rare. Basically, the disposal problem can be solved with the help of earth, crushed stone, sand, which is used to fill the hole. Then you have to choose the right site for construction.

A toilet can be built from different materials it could be:

boards;
metallic profile;
brick;
slate.

The most important part in the construction is ventilation and the quality of the frame base.

The main preference is given to buildings made of wood. The cost of construction is not high and does not require special skills. A wooden toilet can be built in the style of a log cabin or small house. If you come up with a drawing for a country toilet yourself, you can get not only what you need, but also a building that will decorate your site. You can use lining as finishing material. Dignity wooden toilet is that it can be easily moved to a new location.

Disadvantages of wooden buildings.

under the influence of the sun, wood becomes deformed, quickly dries out and bursts;
burning of wood from ultraviolet radiation;
humidity and dampness contribute to deformation of the building frame;
Due to dampness, fungi form that destroy the wood, and it begins to rot and emit unpleasant odors.

In order to extend the life of the building, it must be treated by special means in the form of impregnation. Wood can be primed and painted.

To build a toilet from a metal profile, you need to build a frame from wood.

You can also build a frame from profile pipes, which can be connected by welding, but this requires some skill. The frame is sheathed with profile sheets and reinforced with screws or rivets. The disadvantage of this design is that it gets very hot in the sun, so it is advisable to find a place in the shade in advance. To prevent the toilet from heating up so much and to keep it cool inside, you can use polystyrene foam sheets for upholstery.

The advantage of this design is protection from moisture, since the metal profile sheets are spray-coated.

It is impossible to move a brick building, so this design has difficulties.

Brick building It also requires a concrete floor. You also need to think in advance about how to clean the cesspool. The costs of building such a toilet are higher, but it will be a full-fledged building that does not need repairs for a long time.

You can build a toilet from the same brick that, for example, built a garage or house. If you are building a country toilet, you should select the dimensions immediately before building the structure. This makes it possible to fit into the appearance of the patio and save money on construction.

The weight of this building is more than wood, so you need to put a strong foundation under it. You can build a strip or column-type foundation, but a strip foundation provides a number of advantages: low land costs, reduces cement consumption for pouring, safety and reliability.

A cesspool is the most inexpensive and simplest way to build a toilet in a summer cottage, but there are also a number of restrictions and conditions for installation:

limestone or shale soil;
pass high groundwater;
the toilet is intended to be used by a large number of people;

These factors do not allow the construction of a toilet based on a cesspool in a summer cottage, but this problem can be solved by building a bathroom without sewage pit: backlash closet, powder closet, dry closet or chemical toilet.

A backlash-closet design is based on a cesspool, but it is airtight. It is often installed near the walls of the toilet. A backlash closet requires the use of sewer trucks to periodically empty the pit. The disadvantage of this structure is that winter time it cannot be cleaned; it requires heating.

Powder closet small size tank about 20 liters. This gives the advantage of low construction costs for this toilet. Its installation is necessary if groundwater flows high.

The DIY country toilet created in this way is named because of its principle of operation. The waste in the pit is, as it were, “powdered” with the help of a dry composition. For backfilling, a peat-sawdust mixture or peat is usually used. This helps get rid of bad odors. All waste is sent to compost pit for processing into compost.

Dry toilet – popular look toilet among summer residents. It has the same principle as the powder closet - waste is processed using a peat mixture. You can also use biological products that contain bacteria.

Chemical toilets - chemical preparations are poured into them. Do not forget about safety when using this drug. For these purposes, substances such as bleach and formaldehyde are often used, but you need to be careful, they are very toxic.

The most important requirement for the construction of any toilet is that waste does not fall into the ground. Its construction is possible only when the water level in the ground is more than 2.5 m. The choice of location for the toilet is influenced by:

the distance between the toilet and the water source, the further, the better the nearest distance is 30 m;
the building should be built at a distance from cellars and basements;
buildings with pets should be no closer than 5 m;
there should be 1 m from the fence to the toilet;
The choice of material for building a latrine is important;

There are several types of toilets in the form of a birdhouse, hut, hut or house. The drawing of a country toilet with dimensions like “Birdhouse” is made of wood and lined with any other material. It is built over a cesspool. If it is difficult for you to draw up a drawing yourself, you can use ready-made projects.

During construction, you should use a building level to control the level placement of the structure. Do not forget about the presence of ventilation, which can be a pipe. It must be above roof level. In order to insulate the toilet, you can use polystyrene foam, and you can decorate the inside as desired.

Based on the drawing of the country toilet "Birdhouse" we are building a "Shalash", it has more complex designs, but the result is worth it. "Shalash" has a lot different options design, for this you can use your imagination or the Internet. Dimensions can be used from a previous project.

You need to start construction from the toilet pit; concrete blocks will be placed in it.

A special part of this building is gable roof in the shape of a triangle. If this is a country toilet, the drawings and dimensions are selected individually depending on the number of people who will use the toilet.

Construction consists of several stages. Initially we install the foundation using insulating material which will protect against moisture.

Construction of the “Shalash” begins with installing the foundation, then the lower part of the frame 1 by 1 meter and building a cesspool. The base must be treated with an antiseptic.

The toilet can be lined with forced wood or leftover boards from work. The roof can be made from various materials 1.8 m long, it rests on the front and back of the frame and is secured. The roofing material can be selected depending on your taste. It can be metal, wood, slate roof or corrugated sheeting.

When installing the door, you should immediately attach the handle and hook to it. At the end of the work, you need to treat the toilet with varnish or paint to improve the appearance of the building.

If it is impossible to dig a hole for a toilet, the solution is a homemade peat dry closet. It is easy to maintain and not expensive. Detailed drawing country toilet can be found on the Internet.

It doesn’t matter where you live - or permanently in own home in rural areas, or seasonally in country house, or in a house outside the city - the physical needs of a person remain unchanged for several thousand years.

Unless the degree of comfort and convenience has changed, where would we be without this?

Reflections on this issue formed the basis of the “foundation” of the design proposed below for one of the most popular country and rural buildings -

It would seem like an ordinary toilet... However, the importance of this simple structure cannot be overstated.

The principles of convenience and functionality are organically combined with an attractive and aesthetic appearance wooden building without losing structural strength and rigidity.

Nowadays, the modern woodworking industry produces a large number of various moldings, which provides many opportunities for such creativity.

In combination with inexpensive and quite accessible power tools these days, this can help you without special effort and costs to repeat a similar design.

Tool

The hand tools you will need, first of all, are measuring and marking tools - a tape measure, a square, a pencil. Perhaps chalk cord, folding meter.

The rest is a well-sharpened sharp hacksaw for wood, a pair of sharp chisels, a mallet or hammer, hand plane, glass cutter, miter box for hacksaw... (see Fig. 2, 3, 4)

It is advisable to have a jigsaw as a power tool (see Fig. 5) , electric drill (see Fig. 7) , cordless screwdriver (see Fig. 6) , the simplest milling machine (see Fig. 8) , a set of wood cutters, a set of wood drills, the most common attachments for self-tapping screws.

Required power tools

Selection of the necessary material for construction

When selecting lumber, several basic conditions must be observed:

Planed pine with a cross section of 45*105 mm is suitable for the frame; 7-8 pieces, each 3 meters long, are enough.
You need to select timber that is as even and dry as possible, with as few large knots as possible, without blue or blackening.
For the floor, it is advisable to select smooth and strong edged planed larch boards, at least 40 mm thick.
For wall cladding, so-called imitation larch timber was used. The choice of larch is determined by its resistance to various adverse atmospheric conditions. And, importantly, decorative properties In terms of beauty and expressiveness of texture, larches are much superior to the wood of such popular coniferous species like pine and spruce.

The so-called block house is also suitable for this purpose - wooden panels that imitate rounded logs.

Such moldings come in various standard lengths. This must be taken into account at the stage of determining the dimensions of the structure, so that when trimming there is as little unused scrap as possible.
Roof base – edged planed pine boards section 30*150 mm. Selection criteria: smooth, dry, without blue.
For the windows, it is necessary to select smooth and strong, knot-free, planed pine bars with a cross-section of 45*45 mm.
When choosing metal fasteners, it is advisable to avoid using black self-tapping screws due to their insufficient strength. For fastening wooden parts It is advisable to use yellow or white wood screws with a diameter of at least 4 mm.

Assembling the toilet frame

It is most convenient to start assembling the frame with manufacturing bottom trim. Four beams of the required length need to be connected in half a tree (see Fig. 9) and twist with so-called “wood grouse” - powerful self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 120-150 mm with turnkey hex heads (see Fig. 10) .

The cut lines are marked with a square, two parallel cuts are made along them with a hacksaw, and the waste is removed with a chisel.

The main condition when marking the bars of the lower trim is that it is necessary to maintain the required distance between the internal corners. So, in this case, the width of the front and back walls is 120 cm, the width of the side walls is 90 cm. This is due to the standard length wood panels– 3 m. Such dimensions do not result in trimming when trimming, since two parts of 90 cm and one of 120 cm are cut from one panel.

Chamfers 5-6 mm wide are milled at all corners.

As a result, we get a finished wooden base frame (see Fig. 11) , to which the frame racks will be attached in the future.

The racks are cut with a small allowance in length and laid out on a flat surface to assemble the front wall (see Fig. 12) . Length – 15 cm for attaching to the lower harness and plus 185 cm in height, total – 200 cm.

The lower horizontal bar is screwed temporarily - the height is measured from its bottom side and it fixes the shape.

The upper inclined bars are a kind of rafters for a small roof. It is advisable to make the roof overhang as large as possible - in this case about 30 cm (see Fig. 13) . This is a necessary condition for protection wooden walls from rainfall.

The length of the upper bars is selected experimentally, taking into account the width along the front wall (120 cm) and the angle of inclination of the roof - about 25 degrees (see Fig. 14) .

The intersections of two bars are marked with a pencil to make markings for cutting corners (see Fig. 15) .

Marks are connected using a square (see Fig. 16) .

The bars are cut using a hacksaw according to the markings (see Fig. 17) and the result is four identical parts (see Fig. 18) .

Vertical posts are marked in the same way. (see Fig. 19) and cut to the required size (200 cm) and angle (see Fig. 20) .

Use a pencil to mark curly cutouts at the ends of the inclined upper bars (see Fig. 21) .

And using a jigsaw, the excess is cut off according to the markings made (see Fig. 22) .

Cutouts are made in the same way on the remaining bars. (see Fig. 23) .

The result is curly cutouts of the same shape on all four bars (see Fig. 24) .

On all edges of the upper bars and vertical racks chamfers with a depth of 5-6 mm are milled (see Fig. 25) .

The result is neat parts of the same length and the same shape (see Fig. 26 and 27) .

Prices for wood hacksaws

wood hacksaw

Assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.

To do this, holes are pre-drilled in the screwed bars. The diameter of the drill is 0.5-1 mm larger than the thread diameter of the screw itself (see Fig. 28) .

Using a nozzle corresponding to the screw head, we alternately fasten the two parts together (see Fig. 29) .

Drilled hole allows the screw to be screwed in to firmly position two parts and, in addition, helps to avoid cracks in the screwed parts from splitting when screwing in (see Fig. 30) .

Holes in the upper bars are pre-drilled in the same way. (see Fig. 31) .

For such a width of the screwed part, two self-tapping screws are enough for each fastening point. (see Fig. 32) .

Since a door will be installed in the front wall, it is necessary to make an opening for it. To do this, it is necessary to symmetrically attach two additional posts of the same cross-section as the corner posts to the frame. In addition to forming doorway, these racks will allow you to subsequently secure decorative windows without additional effort.

Using a tape measure, mark the required distances (approximately 160 mm from the inner edge of the corner posts) and screw in two additional posts (see Fig. 33) .

The protruding upper parts are cut off in place with a hacksaw (see Fig. 34) .

For reliability, the attachment point for the upper bars can be strengthened by screwing in an additional pad made from scraps of timber (see Fig. 35) .

To ensure that the back wall is the same size as the front wall, we use the assembled wall as a template. Having secured the frame parts to the front wall with clamps, the rear wall is assembled to the same dimensions (see Fig. 36) .

After preliminary assembly of the main parts, they can be fastened into a single frame. Temporary bottom bars serve as limiters, with the help of which all racks in the frame will have the same height (see Fig. 37) . The lower trim is pre-leveled so that there are no distortions later.

Two holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the racks using an electric drill. (see Fig. 38) . Holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled in the harness.

After drilling, the posts are screwed to the bottom trim using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 100 mm (see Fig. 39) .

To maintain the same distance between the two walls in the upper part, they are temporarily fastened with strips of the same length.

This completes the assembly of the frame - the “skeleton” of the entire structure. (see Fig. 40) .

Covering the walls and floor of the toilet

For floor covering, edged larch boards are used. To eliminate cracks from shrinkage of the boards, you need to use either ready-made tongue-and-groove boards, or cut grooves in edged boards and insert slats into the joints of the boards.

It is most convenient to attach the boards parallel to the side walls - this makes it easier to make cutouts for the racks. The distance between the outer contours of the bottom trim is the required length of the boards (see Fig. 41) .

Prices for jigsaws

jigsaws

To minimize scraps, it is advisable to select a standard length such that one board is trimmed without leaving any residue. Marking with a tape measure and a square will help ensure smooth edges, which is important (see Fig. 42) .

All marked boards are cut with a hacksaw (see Fig. 43) .

After this, using a square, you need to carefully mark the locations of the cutouts in the boards for the racks (see Fig. 44) .

To do this, the board is placed close to the racks, and lines are drawn along the dimensions of the rack; the depth of the cutouts corresponds to the distance that the board does not reach the edge.

Parts with markings that need to be removed are marked with hatching (see Fig. 45) .

The board is carefully cut along the line with a hacksaw, which should be held perpendicular to the cutting line (see Fig. 46) .

After this, the waste is removed with light blows of a chisel. (see Fig. 47) .

Cutouts for the remaining racks are made in the same way. (see Fig. 48) .

On the upper end parts of all boards and in the places of cutouts, chamfers are removed with a milling machine.

Holes for fastening are marked and drilled in the laid boards at the same distance from the edge of the boards (see Fig. 49) .

Using wood screws, the boards are screwed tightly and without gaps to the bars of the bottom trim (see Fig. 50) .

This way you get a smooth and neat wooden floor, without cracks. (see Fig. 51) .

Sheathing the frame is not difficult, but requires similar care.

Carefully marked along the length using a tape measure (see Fig. 52) .

And the square (see Fig. 53) .

After marking, the panels are cut into pieces of the required length (see Fig. 54) .

The result is panels of two sizes - short for lining the side walls and long for lining the back wall (see Fig. 55) .

Since this board has a working width of 140 mm, it is necessary to fasten each side with two screws, as close as possible to the edge of the board - approximately 20-25 mm. This will, to some extent, keep the wood panels from warping.

To prevent cracking of the panels from the screws being screwed in and to ensure a tight connection, all parts are pre-drilled according to the markings before fastening (see Fig. 56) To do this, one marked part is superimposed on the second and holes are drilled in all panels according to this template.

The panels prepared in this way are screwed to the frame posts using wood screws, about 50 mm long. (see Fig. 57) .

If the ridge of the panel fits too tightly into the counter groove (or the panel is slightly curved), then you need to carefully back the panel on top with wood or rubber mallet, placing the same scrap under the mallet so as not to split the panel (see Fig. 58) .

In this way, all panels are attached to the top of the frame, where it may be necessary to cut last panels so that they do not protrude above the roof plane (see Fig. 59) .

We are installing a roof in the toilet

Before laying the roofing material on both slopes, they are screwed tightly edged boards (see fig. 60 and 61) .

If the side overhangs of the roof were formed by extending the rafters 30 cm from the side walls, then the roof overhangs in front and behind are formed by the length of the boards - for this you need to add the rear overhang (about 20 cm) and the front overhang (about 30 cm) to the width of the side walls. By adding the three sizes together, you get the required length of the boards.

In this case, metal tiles are used as roofing. Nowadays, there are many options for roofing coverings on the market. various types and colors, so the choice is practically unlimited.

Attached to boards with roofing screws (see Fig. 62) .

After this, all that remains is to close the front and back end parts with neat boards, which are screwed with self-tapping screws (see Fig. 63) .

Making windows in the toilet

Windows are used not only as decoration, since they largely shape the appearance of the whole wooden structure. To some extent, they play a purely practical role, since they are a translucent structure, which to some extent imparts a kind of internal comfort.

In order to make such windows, you will need several bars with a cross section of 45*45 mm and a length of __ mm (see Fig. 64) .

The first step is to cut out a quarter in each block. To do this, you need to adjust the saw blade offset to circular saw by 20 mm (see Fig. 65) .

After this, the unnecessary part of the bars is carefully cut out (see Fig. 66) .

The bars prepared in this way are laid out on a flat surface and the internal dimensions each window - a formed quarter is necessary in order to insert the window into the opening between the posts (see Fig. 67) .

The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, so it is necessary to drill the screwed parts (see Fig. 69) .

We install a chamfer cutter into the milling machine (see Fig. 70) .

And we remove chamfers 7-8 mm wide on all longitudinal and transverse ribs (see Fig. 71) .

As a result of milling, neat parts are obtained (see Fig. 72) .

The resulting parts are fastened into frames using self-tapping screws (see Fig. 73) .

Protruding corners on the inside of the cross bars are cut off with a hacksaw (see Fig. 74) .

The waste is trimmed and cleaned with a chisel (see Fig. 75) .

Prices for edged boards

edged board

This part of the frame is inserted into the opening (see Fig. 76) .

To install glass, you need to cut a groove inside along the entire perimeter of the frames. To do this, install a disk cutter in a milling machine. (see Fig. 77) .

And in several passes, an internal groove 1-2 mm wider than the thickness of the glass is milled. The standard thickness of relief glass is 4 mm. Groove depth – 10 mm (see Fig. 78) .

From more thin bar you need to make jumpers that will be inserted between the glasses. They are chamfered in the same way and grooves for glass are milled on both sides. It is convenient to make such short parts from one long workpiece - that is, first chamfer and cut grooves along the long sides, then cut off the required number of parts and chamfer the end parts (see Fig. 79) .

After preparing the frames, the glass is cut out (see Fig. 80) . Depending on the initial sketch, it is worth calculating their number immediately. The construction markets currently offer a varied selection of similar glass, which can be cut on site to right size. A more budget-friendly option is to use old glass from the door or regular glass. window glass, which on one side is matted (sanded) with a vibrating sander to make it opaque.

After preparing the glass, the frames are assembled (see Fig. 81) .

To do this, one of the crossbars is unscrewed and glass and wooden jumpers are inserted alternately into the groove.

After this, the lower cross member is screwed into place (see Fig. 82) .

The groove for the glass was intentionally made 1-2 mm larger than the thickness of the glass in order to fill the now formed gap with transparent silicone sealant (see Fig. 83) .

The plastic spout of the tube is cut off to obtain a roller 3-4 mm thick.

After filling the gaps, the sealant is carefully leveled (see Fig. 84) . It is advisable to wait several hours for the sealant to dry.

By filling the gaps, frames will not get rainwater and in addition, the glass will be firmly fixed from vibrations.

The frames are fixed in the openings prepared for them with self-tapping screws. To do this with inside holes are drilled into the racks through which screws are screwed in (see Fig. 85) .

Pre-top and lower parts Short pieces of wood panels are screwed into the openings.

Making a door to the country toilet

The door is assembled from the same wooden panels, only in a vertical position.

To do this, the dimensions of the opening are measured and door leaf required width and length. If the canvas is wider than the opening, then it is cut to the required size symmetrically - so that the outer panels are the same width.

To the width of the opening you should add 2 cm on the right and left - since the door will overlap the racks.

The upper part is cut at the same angle as the upper frame bars.

After cutting to size, chamfers are milled around the perimeter (see Fig. 86) .

The panels are fastened to each other using crossbars, which are cut from panel scraps. Due to the width of the panels, you can do without a jib - the rigidity of the canvas will be achieved through self-tapping screws and application silicone sealant before screwing the crossbars (see Fig. 87) .

Be sure to pre-drill holes in the cross members.

It is advisable to choose canopies with a long arm and screw them into the places where the crossbars are screwed (see Fig. 88) .

To set a gap of 4-5 mm between the floor and the door, just place a chisel under the door (see Fig. 89) .

One of important elements – door handles– made from scraps of curved tree branches (see Fig. 90) . The handles are attached to the door with self-tapping screws.

To prevent the screw caps from being visible from the outside, you should first screw on the inner handle, and then cover the external screw caps with the handle.

The corners of the entire structure are covered with strips 70-80 mm wide and 12-15 mm thick. They are attached with self-tapping screws (see Fig. 92) .

Painting the toilet

The final appearance of the entire wooden structure is determined by painting. It is advisable to choose a weather-resistant coating designed for use in street conditions (see Fig. 93) .

Paint or impregnation is applied with a brush in one or two layers. To more clearly highlight the structure of the wood, it is necessary to thoroughly rub the material with a brush over the entire surface to be painted. (see Fig. 94 .)

Ready-made country toilet - photo

When arranging a summer cottage, any owner first of all thinks about making it comfortable and functional.

And at the same time, such a building as a toilet is also taken into account. After all, when you go out into nature, you give up many of the benefits of civilization, however, it is absolutely impossible to live without some.

In this article we will tell you how to properly and quickly build a toilet on your site. It will be comfortable and will last for more than one season. And at the same time, you don’t have to spend a lot on it.

Where should the construction process begin?

It’s worth noting right away that structures made of brick and concrete will not be considered, since their construction is capital and not all summer residents can afford it.

Budget options will be considered that people even with a low income can build on their own dacha plot. Where should construction begin? Of course, from the preparatory stage.

The first thing you need to do, after you have absolutely decided that you want to build a toilet, is to choose the type of drainage, drainage and waste disposal. This can only be done based on the conditions that are specific to your site.

Once you figure this out for yourself, you can move on to the next one. preparatory stage, which involves determining the location of the structure.

Before you finalize the location of the toilet, consider whether it is convenient.

After this, you need to make a decision regarding the type of construction. You can build either a cabin or a so-called booth. In this case, it completely depends on your wishes and preferences. There are no special recommendations here.

Next, you need to think about what the finished structure will look like and how it can be decorated. Of course, decoration will require additional materials, so if you don’t have the opportunity to purchase them, skip decorating.

You can simply paint the finished structure and thus make it more beautiful.

Once you're done with this, you can start creating an estimate for your expenses. It is highly advisable to do this. After all, in this way you will find out the approximate amount of expected expenses and, if necessary, make adjustments to the estimate.

For example, if you have chosen fairly expensive materials, you can replace them with cheaper analogues.

Booth or cabin - what to choose?

As already written above, the owner of the site needs to independently decide on the choice of design.

However, to simplify it somewhat, we will talk about some characteristics of these structures. Knowing them, you can easily determine what suits you best.

Booth. The main material used to build a country toilet booth is wood. However, we're talking about not at all about expensive wood species. Often ordinary cheap wood is used.

This type of toilet retains heat very well and for a long time, so being in it in autumn or winter period it will be quite comfortable.

At the same time, in summer it will not be hot at all in such a structure, since wood products “breathe”.

By performing a minimum of simple treatments, you can significantly increase the moisture resistance of the structure, making it many times stronger. It is also worth noting that the construction of a foundation is not necessary in this case.

Cabin. There are several variations that make the toilet cubicle more interesting in appearance than a booth. However, it is immediately worth noting that most of these options are extremely unstable and require mandatory foundation laying.

One of the simplest and available ways strengthening is to place a water tank on the roof of the country toilet.

The cabin's strength under load increases and this allows you to use its attic for storing various garden tools or other utensils.

Don't forget that if you want to build a really beautiful country toilet, you should give preference to a cubicle. Decorating it is much easier and more interesting.

Photo of a country toilet

Often the first thing a person thinks about after purchasing a plot of land is: how to make a simple outdoor toilet in a dacha with your own hands and ready-made drawings will come in handy here, as well as detailed description all stages of construction, tips and nuances.

One of the most important and vital buildings in a country house or garden plot is the toilet. The need for a simple structure arises within a few hours of arrival. And even if the owners already have a bathroom in cozy house, street amenities will never be superfluous.

It’s easy to build a toilet in your summer cottage with your own hands

The simplicity of the design allows even a person without much construction experience to equip a toilet for their dacha with their own hands. And if you use your imagination, then a house for thinking about

will fit perfectly into the design of the site and, perhaps, even become its decoration.

What kind of toilet to build: types and features

Actually, there are only two options here: with or without a cesspool.

A toilet with a cesspool is a simple structure, proven by experience and time, which consists of an equipped cesspool and a toilet house above it. As the pit is filled with sewage, it is cleaned out manually or a sewer truck is ordered.
And sometimes they simply move the house to another place. The old pit is buried, and after 6-7 years its contents will finally rot and you can put the toilet back again.

Backlash closet - a type outdoor toilet with a pit for sewage, but with the difference that it must be sealed. Such a toilet has to be built if it is located close to a house, a water source, or when the groundwater is high.

Diagram: how the backlash closet works

A toilet without a cesspool or a powder closet is installed if the groundwater is very high or if the toilet is rarely used. In this case, the container for collecting sewage can be anything except a pit (bucket, barrel, plastic tank). The required volume determines the intensity of use of the bathroom.

After each trip to such a toilet, sewage is sprinkled with dry peat, sometimes sawdust or ash is used, so the house should have a box for “masking powder”. After filling, the container is removed manually and the contents are evacuated to the compost pit. If the sewage has been sprinkled with peat, then after a while it becomes a wonderful fertilizer.

Toilet without a cesspool (powder closet)

Important! If groundwater lies below 2.5 meters, any type of toilet can be built, but if it is located higher, then a cesspool will have to be abandoned.

Where to build a toilet

For toilets with a cesspool, there are a number of sanitary and hygienic standards and restrictions, which determine their location on the site.
Minimum distances from the toilet to other objects:

To water sources (wells, boreholes, lakes, rivers) – 25 m;
To houses, cellars - 12 m;
To a summer shower or bath – 8 m;
To the nearest tree – 4 m, and to the bushes – 1 m;
To fences - at least 1 m.

Scheme: correct location toilet relative to other buildings on the dacha plot

Important! When choosing a construction site, it is worth considering not only the objects located on your own site, but also those located on the neighboring one.

So that summer evenings on the terrace are not spoiled by the amber, the place is chosen taking into account the wind rose. If the site is located on a slope, it is better to install the toilet at the lowest point.

Construction of a cesspool

After selecting and preparing the site, they begin to dig a cesspool. As a rule, it is square in shape and at least 2 meters deep.
There are two types of cesspool:

Sealed. The bottom of such a pit is concreted, reinforced before pouring, and to prevent the reinforcement from sinking in the concrete, it is placed on pegs. The walls are also sealed, puttied with mortar or the seams covered with bitumen.

Sealed pit latrine

Absorbing. It is better to dig such a hole down to the sand, then the liquid fraction of sewage will quickly sink into the ground. The bottom is covered with a layer of coarse crushed stone or pebbles.

Absorption cesspool design

There are several ways to strengthen the walls of a cesspool:

Brickwork;
Concrete structure;
Ready-made reinforced concrete rings;
Plastic tank.

The pit is covered from above, with beams, slate or concrete, leaving only the area under the toilet seat open, and they begin to assemble the toilet house.

Construction of a toilet house

The optimal dimensions of a country toilet are 1×1.5 m, height – 2.2-2.5 m. Otherwise, it will simply be inconvenient, especially for people with large figures. It is not necessary to make toilet drawings yourself, if there are no special requirements and you can use ready-made ideas.
First of all, the scheme is convenient in that it allows you to correctly calculate the amount of building materials and the preliminary cost of a yard bathroom.

Construction of a toilet over a cesspool (proper placement diagram)

Frame base

It is recommended to move the toilet house 2/3 forward above the cesspool, thus providing access for cleaning behind the rear wall of the structure.
The stability of the building can be ensured by a shallow foundation. Between it and the frame, waterproofing is laid, 1-2 layers of roofing felt. But for light construction made of wood it is not at all necessary. It is enough to install the base on concrete blocks.
You can also put four supporting pillars. To do this, four holes about 60 cm deep are dug in the corners of the future structure, in soft soils up to 1 meter, and asbestos pipes are lowered into them. The hole is filled one third of the way cement mortar. After this, a support beam is installed in the pipe, and the hole is completely filled with concrete.

Installing the toilet base on concrete blocks

Frame assembly

To build a frame, beams with a cross section of 50×50 or 80×80 mm will be sufficient; it is not advisable to take larger material.

First, assemble a rectangular support with a jumper from which the front wall of the toilet seat will rise, and screw it to the foundation or support posts. A board is laid on top. Thickness floor board must be at least 3 cm.

Construction wooden frame for the toilet

The frame of the front, rear and side walls is assembled from timber. In this case, the front wall should be at least 10 cm higher than the back wall, this will ensure required slope roofs.
For greater structural strength, it is recommended to make diagonal jibs on the side and rear walls.
On the front wall, be sure to make a reinforcement for the door of the appropriate size and make a hole for the window.
The frames of the walls are secured to the base with metal corners, and a strapping is made on top and at the level of the toilet seat.

Strengthening the toilet frame with metal corners

The next step will be assembling the frame of the toilet seat and covering it, if not provided alternative options, for example, a floor-mounted toilet.

Frame covering

Sheathing the frame wooden planks. The vertical arrangement allows you to significantly save material, and the horizontal one imitates a log house and looks more interesting. The boards are tightly fitted to each other and attached to the base. Instead of wood, corrugated sheets, slate or any other material that matches the construction budget are also used.

Toilet frame trim

Advice! All wooden elements It is advisable to treat the structures with a special antibacterial impregnation, which will protect the material from moisture and pests, and then cover it with varnish or paint

Roof

The roof should not protrude beyond the walls by more than 30 cm. Installation begins by securing parallel boards at a short distance. After this, the visor is sewn up from below, and boards are attached to the outside around the perimeter. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared base, usually roofing felt, after which the structure is covered with any roofing material (slate, metal profile, bitumen shingles).

For a toilet, erecting a simple flat roof is enough

Summer residents, whom standard scheme not satisfied with the house, they can find drawings for more interesting options, make it yourself or purchase ready-made toilet houses, they are assembled like a designer, and for convenience they are necessarily accompanied by instructions and all the accompanying drawings.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in country toilet- is a pipe that removes odors from the cesspool. Its lower edge is inserted into the hole, and the upper edge should rise above the roof by at least 20 cm.

Ventilation of a country toilet

Suitable for arranging ventilation plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters. It is attracted to the back wall from the inner or outside structures and fixed with iron clamps. To increase traction, a deflector attachment is installed on the head.

Installing a toilet door

Doors are installed using ordinary wooden, ready-made plastic or home-made ones, from the material with which the frame was sheathed. Hang the door on 2 hinges. In principle, the closing method can be any, traditionally it is a latch, latch or hook, outside and inside. It is better to avoid more sophisticated locking systems, for example, with latches, since their mechanism will be exposed to moisture and will quickly rust.

Two hinges are enough to install the door

Lighting

For more comfortable operation of amenities, it is better to take care of their lighting in advance. This could be a wall lantern that is battery powered. As an option, you can install electrical wiring and connect a small lighting fixture.

Lighting options for a country toilet

During the day, a small window will illuminate the interior space. It is usually cut out above the doors or at the top of the door, but there are actually more options, from figured windows on the walls and up to the transparent roof.

Advice! The cesspool will last longer if you do not throw toilet paper and other hygiene or household accessories, so there must be a bucket in the toilet. If the size allows, it is convenient to install a regular washbasin with a hanging spout here, especially since the rowing pit is already ready.

Powder closet: construction features

The absence of a cesspool is the main difference in construction. But there are some differences in the design of the house. You will have to think about a way to remove the container in which the sewage is collected.

Scheme: powder closet device

The door is usually equipped back wall house or the front wall of the toilet seat. Inside the cabin there is a special box for peat (ash, sawdust). It’s also impossible to do without ventilation here, only the pipe is not lowered into the hole, but directly under the toilet seat.