We make a ceiling from plasterboard. Plasterboard ceiling - what could be simpler? Installing a horizontal profile

To bring to life their most daring ceiling design projects, designers use plasterboard. When installing plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decorative elements. At the same time, the design is particularly durable and reliable.

Easiest installation suspended ceiling, is the installation of a ceiling with one or two levels. The technique of creating a plasterboard ceiling from two levels will be discussed a little later. But you can get acquainted with some of the intricacies of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the material “Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: installation features.”

Marking ceiling mounts

According to the technology for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to apply markings:

So, a perfectly straight horizontal line is applied to the walls, which will become a feature of the ceiling level. To do this, use a long building level or a water level (spirit level). The most acceptable length of the level is one and a half to two meters, and it should have four stripes in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. If these requirements for the tool are met, marking accuracy is guaranteed.
When completing the outline of a line, its end must converge with its beginning, while the slightest shift is not allowed. When applying markings in the corner of a room using a building level, you should adhere to the rules for working with a hydraulic level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacers.

Technology diagram for installing a plasterboard ceiling

After completing the creation of the horizontal ceiling level, the next step will be marking the ceiling with places for attaching direct hangers. As a result, a grid with cell dimensions of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the cell dimensions do not correspond to the specified 600 mm; in this case, their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical relative to the opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fastening drywall

Installation of the guide profile

The next stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling involves covering the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of this profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm. Of course, this process has its own peculiarities:

Installation of U-shaped hangers

Installation of hangers U-shaped, is carried out according to pre-planned markings on rough ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

To secure the hangers, do not use dowel nails for vertical fastening. It is recommended to use plastic dowels and screws. If the rough ceiling is made of concrete, optimal solution will become metal dowels designed for heavy structures. However, you should be careful, since frame dowels are also metal, but they are completely unsuitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped hangers should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Frame fastening elements plasterboard construction to the ceiling

After completing the process of attaching U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes sizes 6 x 2.7 cm are found.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing you need to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles on the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short transverse profiles between them. In this case, cross connections are made using special fastenings.

The PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then they mark the horizontal level of the location of the ceiling profiles (a level is used for this purpose), and then attach it using a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. In this case, for such a connection, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used.

To make the job easier, you can use the following tips:

Most rational decision, will be the installation of the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. In this way, you can divert attention from minor defects at the junction of the drywall sheets, which will be attached in the direction of natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (GKL) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

The sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of gypsum boards on profiles, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, and the screw is slightly “recessed” into the sheet of drywall, about two to three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, screws should begin to be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful and avoid chipping the edge of the sheet. However, if such a problem does occur, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the place of the chip.

When attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

When installing sheets of drywall, remember that there is a narrow profile in the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard ceiling, you should adhere to simple rule: fewer edges – more beautiful view;
When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same depth of “recession” at all fastening points. This accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting work, it will allow them to be carried out as efficiently as possible;
To avoid unpleasant situations such as height differences at the junction of sheets, the best option will be the use of products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Technology for cutting plasterboard sheets and painting work

To mark plasterboard sheets, it is used aluminum rule, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat strip.

Markings are made on the sheet; the drywall will be cut according to it.
Next, an incision with a depth of 2-4 mm is made according to the rule (or strip). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is smooth and uninterrupted.
After which, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and, with the help of a careful but confident movement, breaks. If the cut is made correctly, the plasterboard sheet will break smoothly.

Instructions for cutting drywall

There will be cardboard on the back side of the sheet; it can be cut off using construction knife.
To level the edge of the cut, you can use a plane or sandpaper No. 4 or No. 6.

To paint a plasterboard ceiling (to learn about the rules for painting, read: How to paint a ceiling in a kitchen: choosing paint and work procedure), you need to use a paint bandage and a painting mesh, which are used for gluing the joints between the plasterboard and the wall and the joints.

The process of marking the ceiling for placement spotlights should be performed before the last application of paint. This procedure will prevent stains and help maintain visibility of the light point markers. The last layer of paint is applied towards the strongest stream of light.

Technology: for painting a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the optimal solution is to use a roller; this will save paint and allow you to create a uniform coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended ceilings from plasterboard will allow high-quality installation on our own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a crooked and unreliable ceiling that will need to be redone.

The easiest way to level the ceiling surface is to make a sheet of plasterboard. Moreover, it is not necessary to build a complex multi-level system; it is enough to make a single-level covering from gypsum plasterboard according to metal frame. If you follow the instructions exactly, you can make a single-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in a couple of days. It is important to correctly select and calculate the amount of material, and upon completion of installation, prepare the surface for treatment with the selected finishing material. The article will describe: installation technology, prices for work carried out by professional craftsmen.

If you decide to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, then first decide on the type of plasterboard and calculate the required amount of material.

Depending on the purpose and characteristics of the processes occurring in it, one of the following types of gypsum boards is used:

moisture resistant products have a characteristic greenish surface and are suitable for installation in a damp room in a bathroom, kitchen, toilet or swimming pool;
fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard is used in places with increased requirements for fire safety(on staircases, escape routes, in the corridors of public institutions, etc.);
standard slabs have a gray surface and are suitable for installation in residential areas with normal humidity, for example, in the bedroom, living room, office, children's room, hallway or corridor;
also happens wall and ceiling plasterboard, the latter has a smaller thickness and weight, therefore it is more suitable for installation on the ceiling;
arched gypsum board is the thinnest, it is used for the manufacture of curved surfaces (it is not used when installing single-level coatings).

Important! To count required quantity gypsum boards, you need to know the area of the ceiling. We divide the resulting value by the area of one plasterboard sheet and round up to the whole product.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare necessary materials:

gypsum boards;
metal profiles for frame assembly;
primer;
putty;
screws and dowels;
necessary components (suspensions, connectors);
serpyanka;
dowel-nails for mounting perforated hangers;
self-tapping screws for metal work;
finishing finishing material (wallpaper, paint, etc.).

The following tools will be needed:

perforator;
drill;
hammer;
screwdriver;
spatulas;
rollers and brushes;
primer tray;
paint grater;
construction and laser level;
chop cord;
pencil;
roulette;
ladder;
ruler;
metal scissors.

Selection of profiles for the ceiling

If you make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, it is important to choose the right profiles for assembling the supporting frame:

To assemble guide rails on the walls, you will need PN profiles with a cross-section of 27x28 mm and a length of up to 4 m.
The main frame is assembled from ceiling PP profiles with a cross-section of 60x27 mm and a length of 300-400 cm.
In addition to the profile elements, you will need direct perforated hangers, as well as single-level crab-type connectors.

Surface preparation before installing gypsum boards

If you decide to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then the step-by-step instructions from our article will help you. Since the surface of the suspended ceiling completely hides any defects and unevenness of the base, it does not require special preparation.

If there is an old coating that does not adhere well to the base, then it is better to dismantle it. Areas with mold are cleaned up to the base ceiling and treated antiseptic composition so that the fungus does not appear again in the future.

On preparatory stage lay engineering Communication – ventilation ducts and wiring to the installation sites of lamps. In addition, markings are applied to the installation locations of the frame elements.

To do this, do the following:

Find the lowest corner in the room using a laser measuring device.
From this angle downwards a value equal to the height of the depression of the new ceiling surface. The distance can be calculated by taking into account the thickness of the frame, laid communications and the height of the built-in lamps.
Using a laser level, we transfer the resulting mark to the remaining corners of the room.
We connect all the points in the corners with longitudinal lines on the walls using a tapping cord.
On the ceiling surface we mark the installation locations for PP profiles. Usually they are mounted in increments of 40 cm. We place dots along these lines in increments of 60 cm. These will be the locations where the hangers will be installed.

Installation of guides

First you need to assemble a structure from guide rails on the walls of the room. To do this, we drill holes in the PN profile in increments of 50 cm. We make the outermost holes at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the end of the profile. Then we apply the product to the markings on the wall surface and mark the holes.

Drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill. Then we hammer the dowels into the holes and screw the profile with self-tapping screws. Similarly, we install guide profiles on all walls in the room.

Important! After assembling the frame from the guides, install perforated suspensions on the ceiling according to pre-applied markings. Each part is attached to two dowel-nails.

Ceiling profile installation

We cut longitudinal ceiling profiles according to the width of the room. We insert the ends of one rail into the groove of the guides on the wall. In the central part, we attach the rail to the base ceiling surface using perforated hangers. We screw self-tapping screws into the side shelves, and bend the excess part of the suspension ears upward so that they do not interfere with the installation of drywall.

We mount the next profile in the same way at a distance of 40 cm from the previous product. Thus, each gypsum sheet will be attached to 4 profiles, which increases the reliability of the entire structure.

On small area short transverse ceiling profiles may not be used. IN large room they are cut to length and installed in 60 cm increments between the longitudinal slats. To fasten these parts to the frame, single-level connectors are used. Short slats are not attached to perforated hangers.

Laying thermal insulation

If the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out with additional insulation of the room, then the installation thermal insulation materials performed at this stage. Typically soft insulators such as mineral wool are used. The insulation boards are cut according to the width of the step with which the longitudinal frame elements are installed, plus 1-2 cm for tight joining.

The material is placed between the slats so that it is held apart. The ends of the insulation boards are placed as close to each other as possible so that there are no gaps. For guard mineral wool to prevent moisture absorption, a vapor barrier membrane is sewn to the bottom of the frame. The material is laid in strips with an overlap of 15 cm and secured with double-sided tape.

Important! TO wooden sheathing The vapor barrier can be secured with a stapler.

Installation of gypsum boards

Installation of drywall begins from one of the corners of the room. The slab is laid lengthwise on the longitudinal profiles of the frame. Moreover, each sheet must be attached to four PP rails. The product is screwed with self-tapping screws, which are mounted in increments of 25 cm. The extreme fasteners are placed from the edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 2.5 cm.

The next sheet is mounted in the same way, which is laid close to the previous one. The longitudinal joint of the slabs should be in the middle ceiling profile. The outermost sheets in the row are cut to width.

Final surface treatment

Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard requires a finishing decorative coating. Possible different variants finishing - painting with interior paint, whitewashing, wallpapering or film.

In any case, the surface of the plasterboard ceiling needs to be prepared:

All seams between the slabs must be puttied using serpyanka. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the seam, the serpyanka is pressed in and covered with a second layer of putty. The surface is well leveled.
Places for installing self-tapping screws are puttied.
After the putty mixture has dried, the treated areas are sanded with fine-grain sandpaper.
The surface is dust-free and treated with a primer. After the first layer of primer mixture has dried, a second one is applied. This preparation is sufficient for wallpapering the ceiling.
If painting is to be done, the entire surface is puttied with a finishing compound, and after it dries, sanded. Then the ceiling is once again treated with deep penetration primer. Now the surface is ready for painting.

If the ceiling surface is relatively flat, and you do not plan to install built-in lamps and lay utilities in the ceiling space, then installing gypsum boards on the ceiling can be done using frameless technology. In this case, you will not need to assemble the lathing from metal profiles or wooden blocks, because the gypsum boards are simply glued to the ceiling with special glue. This installation method allows you to significantly save and speed up work.

Now you know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. It is much more profitable to install gypsum boards yourself, since the price per m2 of professional installation of plasterboard on the ceiling is $10. Considering how much the materials cost and finishing, then the final cost can reach up to $20 per square. That is why it is better to carry out the installation yourself, and the instructions from our article will help you do everything correctly.

Are you planning to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? You can understand: this is a reliable and economical material that allows you to realize the most non-trivial design idea. In order for it not to work out, as in the immortal statement of Viktor Chernomyrdin - “We wanted the best, but it turned out as always” - it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions, which cover in detail all the stages of work for finishing the ceiling surface.

For convenience and clarity, we have provided it with 47 photos, so you will not have any difficulties understanding the material.

Preparing the premises

remove all large objects and furniture that could potentially interfere with work and movement during the installation process;
If it is impossible to carry out the first step, cover the furniture with film to protect it from construction waste, adhesive composition and dust;
clean the ceiling of everything unnecessary: dust, small knots and everything that you are unlikely to get to in the foreseeable future after installation.

Tool preparation

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, so that later you don’t have to regret the crooked fit of the sheets and bad organized lighting? That's right, the key to successful installation is proper markings and the necessary tools at hand.

First, we list everything you need to properly mark out the room:

roulette;
level;
pencil;
painting cord.

Now let’s touch on the mandatory set of directly necessary construction tools:

hacksaw;
perforator;
screwdriver;
scissors.

As you can see, you don’t need anything out of the ordinary to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. A standard set of tools that can be purchased at any construction supermarket.

The only thing that can be added to this list, modest in every sense, is protective glasses. Still, some stages of our step by step instructions include operations that could potentially harm your eyes.

Compliance with safety regulations- this is the basis for performing any type of repair work, so take this recommendation seriously.

Preparation of material

In accordance with how you see your future gypsum board ceiling, prepare plasterboard sheets the right size. Calculate total area building a room is quite easy: the length is multiplied by the width, and the exact size of the pieces of material directly depends on the format of the plasterboard structure that you want to see in your room.

You will also need:

ceiling guide profiles UD;
ceiling main profiles CD;
direct universal hangers or any others in accordance with the layout;
self-tapping screws;
dowels

It should be remembered that UD profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter, and CDs are inserted into them longitudinally with the required step according to the size of the plasterboard fragments.

Cost table

In order for you to have a rough idea of future expenses and be able to prudently adjust your budget, we offer you a small table that shows the average current prices for the materials used for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard.

Name	Vacation unit	Price
self-tapping screws	packaging (200 pcs.)	from 120 rubles
gypsum board sheets	sheet(3 m2)	from 250 rubles
UD profile	PC.	from 40 rubles
CD profile	PC.	from 45 rubles
ceiling hangers	PC.	from 4 rubles
dowels	packaging (200 pcs.)	from 125 rubles

Marking

A very simple, but quite important step, the correct execution of which determines the final result:

we find the lower corner point on the concrete base of the ceiling;
we make the necessary indentation, guided by practical considerations: how the lamps will be mounted, how many levels there will be in the final structure. Remember that there must be a certain margin of a few centimeters, otherwise making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands will turn out to be very rough and unattractive;
We put a mark using a level; if you have a hydraulic level at hand, then the problem of evenly transferring this line to the entire plane can be considered solved. If not, then you will have to use the painting cord we mentioned;
We connect all the marks using this cord, achieving a perfectly straight line.

The final marking touch is to apply the so-called mesh, which will serve as a guide for the installation of prepared hangers. Observe the step between the lines, it is approximately equal to 50 cm.

This is what you should end up with.

If you see approximately the same thing on your ceiling, then congratulations: you have successfully completed the first stage of our step-by-step instructions.

Frame

If the markings are done correctly, then constructing the frame should not cause you any particular difficulties:

start from the perimeter, securing the prepared UD wall profile at a given step (up to 60 centimeters);
proceed to fixing the hangers - use dowels for this, and again the prepared hangers should be placed at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines of the grid applied to the concrete base of the ceiling (see the previous paragraph);
prepare embeds from bars for the chandelier, if one will be used indoors, and also run wires to the places where you plan to install spots and other types lighting fixtures;
insert the longitudinal CD profile into the grooves of the wall one and secure it with self-tapping screws. You should have them on hand, right?

If you didn’t know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, but followed the suggested step-by-step instructions, then half the way has already been safely completed. The creation of the frame is crowned by the installation of what is called battens , on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Probably the most basic and uncomplicated step when installing drywall, which, however, will require help in the form of a couple of extra hands.

In order to speed up or even simplify finishing the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands, use the help of your friends to fix the sheets on the ceiling. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to secure sheets of drywall with self-tapping screws alone.

start from one wall, systematically moving towards the opposite;
installation of the last fragment is carried out by cutting the sheet in accordance with your measurements;
lay the fragments in a joint, eliminating the appearance of any gaps or irregularities. If we're talking about about the last sheet, experienced experts still recommend leaving a small gap in this case.

Finishing

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands logically approached the post-processing of an already assembled surface. However, in terms of the number of micro-operations, this stage confidently pushes back all the previous ones:

puttying joints and gaps;
surface primer;
decorative finishing.

The choice of implementation of the latter is solely on your conscience. Usually, to make a plasterboard ceiling more expressive, they use beautiful wallpaper, application decorative plaster, painting the ceiling base water-based paint. When choosing this or that solution, make a discount on functional purpose premises.

It goes without saying that for the kitchen or bathroom, where high humidity and temperature changes are frequent, it is best to choose the most practical look finishing - painting with a reliable water-based emulsion.

Conclusion

Step-by-step guide with photos and videos on how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Nuances and subtleties of installation technology

In previous articles we dealt with ceilings and now we’ll look at plasterboard suspension systems. Decorating the ceiling is a responsible task, the implementation of which largely depends big picture room interior.

Suspended ceilings made of plasterboard allow you to create interiors in a variety of styles

Suspended ceilings help to level the level of the ceiling, while at the same time eliminating surface unevenness. In terms of design options: suspended structures very diverse: here and vinyl, and aluminum, etc.

There is nothing difficult about making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Any owner who has basic skills in construction and repair work can easily cope with this task. The main thing is to correctly select the necessary materials and carry out installation, adhering to a number of recommendations.

Selection of materials and tools

The key to reliability and durability of the design is right choice material. To assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you should purchase the main components of the structure in advance, which include:

To attach profiles you will need:

To secure the hangers, you also need to prepare 8x10 dowels. Connect the profiles together and attach the frame to concrete base Galvanized screws 4.2x51 will help. For fixation plasterboard sheets Self-tapping screws 25 mm long will be needed.

To install the structure you will need the following tools:

A building level is needed to accurately mark the horizontal line for installing the guide profile. A two-meter level will be required when marking drywall sheets.

To execute Finishing work After installing it yourself, you should prepare materials in advance, which include:

Serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
Sealing self-adhesive tape;
Acrylic primer;
Putty for seams;
Paint brush or roller;
Medium spatula;
Fine-grained sandpaper;
Sound and thermal insulation (if necessary).

Porous sealing tape on a self-adhesive basis helps ensure that the frame adheres tightly to the concrete surface.

Taping seams with serpyanka

Preparatory work

The first thing you need to do before installing a suspended ceiling with your own hands is to solve the issue of lighting the room. At this stage, it is important to choose the type of lamps that are supposed to be installed, their power, location on the ceiling surface and the total number of lighting fixtures.

The height of the frame will depend on these parameters, which will ultimately affect the height of the walls of the room.

Having designed the suspended ceiling lighting, they carry out the wiring electrical wires, the ends of which are lowered down in places where lighting fixtures are installed and secured with clamps.

Diagram: lighting system installation

To determine the ceiling level and create a perfectly straight line for arranging the frame, first make marks on the walls. To simplify the task, strokes are first applied with a pencil along the walls of the room at a convenient height of 1.7 m, each time guided by a laser or water level. Then they are connected using a painting cord into a single line.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the distance from the drawn line to the base surface, determining the lowest point of the ceiling.

Tip: To calculate the height of the future frame, step back from the intended lowest point of the base surface to the height of the profile and add 5-8 mm to this value for the gap. When installing spotlights, the height of the frame should be correlated with the size of their base.

Having established the distance from the lowest point mark to the horizontal line, draw a parallel line under the ceiling. It will serve as a guide for securing the guide profile.

Installation of the suspended structure frame

A guide profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, placing it so that the lower end coincides with the horizontal line marked on the wall.

Metal frame for suspended ceiling

Having measured the required length of the profile, cut it using metal scissors. Then, pressing it tightly to the line on the wall, fix it on the dowels, drilling directly through the profile. To create a durable structure, the interval between holes should be at least 30-40 cm, and at the edges and corners - 15 cm.

Where the middle of the plasterboard sheets are placed, additional fastening should be provided. A sealing tape is glued to each profile, fixing the structure to the wall with dowels.

Installation of the ceiling profile is carried out in several stages:

Sheathing the gypsum board frame

The principle of attaching plasterboard sheets to a metal frame is quite simple. They are raised to the level of the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.
When installing plasterboard sheets, it is important to follow a number of recommendations:

The sheets must be fastened parallel to the longitudinal profiles, excluding the coincidence of the joints. In places where sections and whole sheets join, in order to prevent possible cracks during subsequent puttying, it is necessary to make indentations with a knife.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

All sheet joints must be located strictly on the profiles. A gap of 1 mm is always left between adjacent sheets.

The screws begin to be screwed in from the corner of the sheet, moving towards the center. They are screwed in at right angles, “recessing” the caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Tip: To cut a sheet lengthwise or crosswise, you need to cut the cardboard shell with a knife on one of the sides at the intended point, applying the rule. Then bend it along the cut line, cutting through the cardboard on the opposite side.

To make rectangular holes, it is convenient to use a hacksaw, and for round holes for lamps, an electric drill equipped with a special “crown”. If it is necessary to do round hole with a diameter of more than 80 mm, it is enough to drill several holes along the contour of the circle and squeeze the inside of the resulting circle out.

Other secrets of mastery when working with drywall video:

Having sheathed the frame with sheets, the mounted ceiling is allowed to “settle” for one to two days. After this, they move on to surface finishing. First, coat it with a primer. Then all joints are carefully sealed with putty, and the seams are reinforced with reinforcing tape. In addition to the joints, the “recessed” screw heads are puttied.
The plastered ceiling is left for a day. After complete drying finishing material The joints are “sanded” with fine-grained sandpaper. The cleaned surface is covered with finishing putty. After drying, the joints are “sanded” again, carefully inspected under the light of a lamp, and if irregularities and scratches are detected, they are again covered with a finish. Final sanding is performed when the material is completely dry, i.e. in 7-8 hours. Ideas for finishing options can be taken from photos on the Internet.

Having mastered the technology of installing a single-level suspended ceiling, you can move on to more complex structures, using interesting combined options instead of standard solutions.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling: photo

Here are instructions describing the installation of a plasterboard ceiling. It is quite detailed and understandable even to those who have not encountered gypsum boards. All stages are considered - from design to rough finishing. In addition to standard techniques, you will learn some tricks to save time or money. At the beginning of the article there are lists necessary tools and materials, as well as recommended conditions for such work. Then a brief procedure is given. And from the next section, which is called “Plan and Calculations”, it begins directly detailed description each stage.

Where does the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling begin?

From wall decoration. The fact is that correct installation plasterboard on the ceiling is ideal. So before starting ceiling work, the walls must be prepared for finishing(plastered and puttied). Or at least covered with plasterboard.

The future ceiling also needs to be prepared. Remove old finish if it is in the way. Secure all communications to the ceiling - wires, air ducts, pipes.

The rules for installing a plasterboard ceiling are almost the same as for. There are some difficulties. But overall, the idea is worth it, even if this is your first time encountering gypsum boards. Of course, for installation plasterboard ceilings It is advisable that you have at least some knowledge of how to operate power tools and have some physical strength.

What is needed to install a plasterboard ceiling?

You will have to work with long and relatively heavy materials. You will definitely need an assistant.

The tools you will need are:

water or laser level;
pencil;
marker;
metal scissors (a grinder will do);
perforator;
hammer;
a screwdriver and several PH2 Phillips bits.

The list should be supplemented with tools and devices that will make your work much easier:

Chalk shnu
Special bit for drywall with limiter

An ordinary building level would also be useful. If you don't have a hydraulic level or a laser level and have nowhere to get them, you can get by with a regular one.

Trick: how to do without a laser level

Secure a regular level with electrical tape to a long, perfectly straight bar;
place the bar on a known horizontal surface;
If the bubble is not exactly in the middle, slide a thin wedge under the appropriate end of the level. Try to perfectly align the bubble;
rotate the bar 180°. Make sure that in this position the bubble is exactly in the middle.

So instead of a short and inaccurate level, you got a long and accurate one.

You will also need finishing tools. The list will depend on the type of finish, but in any case the following are necessary:

spatulas - narrow and wide;
bucket (or other convenient container).

It is advisable to have a drill attachment () for mixing construction mixtures.

A simple bench will help a lot. Forget about stepladders - working on them is inconvenient. Make a simple bench out of boards or roll up a simple bench out of chipboard. Calculate its height so that there is 10-15 cm above your head to the future ceiling surface.

List of materials:

guide profile;
ceiling profile;
single-level connectors (“crabs”);
longitudinal connectors (if longitudinal profiles longer than 3 meters are required);
straight hangers (for heights up to 20 cm);
anchor suspensions + rods (for heights over 20 cm);
dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm
or wood screws for wooden walls and ceilings (black, with a rare thread pitch);
self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2 x 13 mm (silver, without drill head);
(black, with frequent thread pitch)
and the drywall itself;
and ;
and serpyanka.

How many materials will you need? In order to have enough, but not have any surplus, you need an accurate calculation. How to do it, read in the section “Scheme and calculations”.

Work plan

Let’s conditionally divide the installation of gypsum boards on the ceiling into five big stages. Next, each section of the article will describe these stages in full detail.

Scheme and calculations;
marking;
installation of profiles and hangers;
installation of drywall;
finishing/

By measuring the room and drawing up a diagram, you will get a clear idea of how much materials will be needed.

The technology of installing drywall on the ceiling requires care. To ensure that the structure does not warp, it is necessary to accurately mark the perimeter of the room.

Now let's count the number of profiles. The technology for plasterboard ceilings is as follows: first, a metal guide profile is fixed around the perimeter. Ceiling profiles are inserted into it and attached to it. Additionally, the profiles are attached with hangers to the ceiling.

Technology for installing plasterboard ceilings

Important: guide profile installation rules

There should be no gaps between the guide profile sections. In the corner, one profile is inserted into the other until it stops. On one plane, profile sections are joined into a joint. If there outside corner, then one of the profile sections should stick out 27mm. In this way, a continuous belt is obtained from the guide profile.

To count the number of dowel nails, focus on the fastening approximately every 40-50 cm.

Long sections of the ceiling profile are installed exactly every 50 cm. Gypsum boards are located across them. Thus, the edges of each sheet will lie clearly in the middle of the profile. No edge should hang in the air! The edges adjacent to the walls will be attached directly to the guide profile.

Jumpers are inserted across the longitudinal profiles. These are sections of the same ceiling profile, installed in increments of 60 cm. The principle is the same: all edges of each gypsum board sheet should fall in the middle of the profile. The middle of the sheet should also be secured. The length of the lintels = 50 cm minus the width of the ceiling profile (60 mm), that is, 44 cm.

Suspensions are installed along the entire length of the longitudinal profiles in increments of 60 cm.

For clarity, draw all the profiles on your diagram so as not to make mistakes in the calculation. Each intersection of the ceiling profiles is one crab and three metal screws (with a press washer).

Self-tapping screws for drywall are screwed in increments of 15 cm. Just take the total length of all profiles in centimeters and divide it by 15.

Buy putty in quantities of 1 kg ready mixture per 1 m2 approximately 3 kg per sheet. A kilogram of the finished mixture, not the powder.

Materials should be purchased with a small margin - about 20%. Quickly calculate what you need using a calculator.

Marking

So, we begin the actual installation of the ceiling plasterboard.

Typically, plasterboard on the ceiling is mounted strictly horizontally. Arm yourself with a level and get ready to draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. You can limit yourself to short strokes every half meter. The main thing is that the ends of the markings meet exactly at the same level.

The correct placement of plasterboard sheets on the ceiling is important

To avoid buying tools

There is no point in buying rather expensive equipment for a one-time job. Tools such as a laser level, hammer drill and screwdriver can be rented.

You can draw a line with a pencil along a long straight bar. A piece of ceiling profile is suitable for this purpose. You can put marks only in the corners, then drive nails into them and pull the lace. But it’s even easier to stretch a chalk cord between these marks and slam it on the wall - you will be left with a perfect, straight and clearly visible line.

Using this marking you will need to install a guide profile. remember, that finishing surface the ceiling will be about a centimeter lower.

Next, you need to mark the installation locations of the ceiling profiles. Place marks directly on the wall, just below the guide profile attachment line. They should be visible even after installing gypsum board sheets. Apply strokes in 50 cm increments for installing long ceiling profiles, in 60 cm increments for lintels.

It remains to mark the junction of the longitudinal profile with the jumpers. Draw on metal with a marker. Place strokes every 60 centimeters on the longitudinal profiles. You can do this even before you install them in the guide profiles. Mark the ends where you started: they should all end up on one side of the room.

Installation of profiles and hangers

Drill the guide profile with a 6 mm drill bit in increments of about 40 cm. In principle, you can punch it with a hammer drill directly at the installation site. When drilling into a wall, hold the profile tightly. Make sure that it does not move relative to the markings.

Through drilling of the guide profile is allowed

If you have plasterboard walls, then you need to imagine at what distance from the wall the drywall is located. Working part The dowel (notched) must sit completely in the concrete.

On walls longer than 3 m, be sure to “splice” the guide profiles by inserting one into the other. They also need to be joined in the corners. Then install the longitudinal ceiling profiles, inserting their ends into the guide profile.

Trick: how to insert a ceiling profile into the guide more easily

Use scissors to cut off the corners at the ends of the ceiling profile. This will make it much easier to insert it into the guide, especially if you are working alone.

It is best to install the hangers before you secure the longitudinal profiles and install the lintels. You just need to make sure that the profiles are exactly in place: they will guide you where to place the hangers.

For fastening into concrete, a dowel-nail is usually used. You can also take it - it holds much more tightly, but it is also much more difficult to dismantle.

Concrete floors in old apartments are treacherous. It often happens that a drill, having traveled a little less than a centimeter, falls into the void. You can deal with such surprises in different ways:

take a very long dowel-nail;
attach the suspension in another place;
Instead of a dowel-nail, drive in a wooden plug and secure the suspension with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to attach the direct suspension not to the outer holes (which are in the petals), but to the adjacent ones, located closer to the middle. Attaching it by the petals is, of course, more convenient: it’s easier to get to them when the frame is already assembled. But this method will allow the ceiling to sag a little.

You can use direct hangers even when the ceiling height from the ceiling is more than 20 cm. You just need to use two instead of one hanger.

But it is much more convenient to use an anchor suspension. The rod of the anchor suspension is attached to the ceiling in the same way as a direct suspension, through an eyelet previously bent 90° with pliers. Please note that you only need to bend the eyelet itself. The rest of the bar should remain perfectly straight.

Where to install hangers? Above each of the long ceiling profiles, in increments of about 50-60 cm. They should not fall on the junction of the longitudinal and transverse profiles! Refer to the previously applied markings.

Direct suspension

After nailing straight hangers, bend the legs 90° down. Do this carefully - after bending, the legs should remain perfectly straight.

When all the hangers are nailed, install the longitudinal profiles according to the markings (every 50 cm). Secure them with self-tapping screws through the guide profile, one at each end.

Screwing screws without a drill is not that difficult. The main thing is to use a suitable bat (marked “PH2”). Press firmly on the screw (but without fanaticism) and turn at medium speed. After a second or two, the sharp tip will pierce the metal, and then the self-tapping screw can be screwed in without difficulty.

Cut the jumpers. Please note that the length of the outer jumpers will not be 44, but 47 cm. Attach the jumpers with crabs.

Ceiling crab for connecting cross profiles

The crabs are snapped on top. They have special petals with holes for fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Bend the petals and attach the crab with one screw to the long profile. Before doing this, make sure that it has not moved relative to the mark. Screw two more screws through the same petals into each jumper.

How to save money on crabs

Make the jumpers 6 centimeters longer. Cut the side flaps 3cm off each end. Screw the remaining middle part with a self-tapping screw directly to the long ceiling profile from below. Don’t be confused by the fact that the head of the screw sticks out a little: this will not be a serious obstacle to the tight fit of the drywall.

Options for connecting profiles without using a crab in the photo:

With such savings, the rigidity of the frame will suffer somewhat. Of course, the ceiling won't collapse; It will just be a little less smooth and durable.

Do not rush to screw straight hangers to the profile. The problem is that profiles 2 m or more in length will inevitably sag. Especially if you used an extension cord (longitudinal connector).

We eliminate the sagging using a cord stretched tightly across all longitudinal profiles:

screw one screw into the guide profile at each end of the room, in the middle of the wall;
tie a string to them and pull it tightly;
you can see that the long profiles "lie" on the lace. Before securing with hangers, lift them so that they hang 1-2 millimeters above the lace.

When all the hangers and all the jumpers are screwed to the longitudinal profiles, the frame is ready. We proceed to installing drywall on the ceiling.

Installation of drywall sheets

But first you need to do insulation (if in your case it is necessary). Eat different ways insulate the ceiling. Perhaps the most convenient is mineral wool insulation. Roll insulation is simply placed on top of the frame. Wear gloves, goggles and a respirator - dust from mineral wool irritates even the skin, not to mention the mucous membranes.

And now you can screw the gypsum board sheets. Start from the edge where the whole sheet fits. Place the sheet across the long profiles, close to the walls. If you did everything correctly and accurately, then the edges of the sheet along the entire length will be exactly in the middle of the ceiling profiles.

Screw the sheet to all profiles, both at the edges and in the middle. Along the edge, the screws should go approximately every 15 cm, in other places you can increase the pitch to 20-25 cm.

How to attach sheets

GCR has a front side and a back side. On the front side there is a rounded chamfer along the longitudinal edges of the sheet and there is a slight unevenness. The reverse side is always flat– for a tight fit to the surface.

Screw in the screws ten millimeters from the edge. You need to retreat at least 15 mm from the cut edge. Retreat at least five centimeters from the corners!

The screw head should be slightly recessed into the surface of the slab. Do this carefully: the self-tapping screw is quite easy to tighten, especially if you lack experience. In such work, a special bit for drywall with a limiter is very helpful.

You can see where the profiles go by the marks on the wall. However, you can draw out a sheet of drywall in advance, even before you lift it and start attaching it. Continue the longitudinal row of sheets, end to end, without gaps. It is difficult to do this work without an assistant.

Devices for not holding a sheet of drywall

Make a support. Take a board slightly longer than the height of the ceiling, screw a piece of board about a meter long across it to form the letter “T”. Reinforce with two planks diagonally. This mop-like device is used by craftsmen all over the world when they make installation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Methods for installing a gypsum board ceiling without an assistant:

Using the lift

Homemade option holding the sheet on the ceiling

The next row starts with half a sheet. The technology requires that the seams between the sheets do not intersect crosswise. Correct location slabs resemble brickwork.

How to cut drywall sheets

With a knife. It can be clerical. Mark exactly the middle and make a cut along the ruler. You probably still have a piece of the ceiling profile left - use it as a ruler. The cut can be shallow; it is enough to cut through the paper. Place the same profile under the cut or place the sheet on the edge of the table and break it. All that remains is to cut the paper from the back side.

If you need to cut a very narrow strip, it is easier to use a hacksaw.

The cut edges need to be chamfered additionally. This is necessary for high-quality putty. Using the same knife, cut off a few millimeters from the front side at an angle of about 45°. Precision is not required at this stage. Do not touch the factory longitudinal edges - their chamfer is already rounded.

Final finishing

Prime the ceiling with a roller or large brush. Using a small brush, carefully go over the seams.

After the primer has dried, apply tape. It is glued only to the junction of two factory seams, as well as to the corners. Immediately after this you can.

Mix a small amount of putty. At this stage, you only need to cover the seams and recesses from the screws. Apply the putty with a narrow spatula, then level it with a wide one.

According to the technology, the seams need to be puttied twice. So you will have to wait for the putty to dry, then apply a second, thin layer. But before that, be sure to scrape off all the burrs with a spatula (just don’t use much force).

Conclusion

Actually, that’s the whole article about how to mount a plasterboard ceiling. Save this page or print it and let it be your cheat sheet on how to install drywall on a ceiling.

Good luck with your renovation! In addition, watch a video selection on the installation of gypsum board structures.