To keep a rabbit you need a cage. Almost an axiom. But this axiom is not easy to put into practice in all regions, since factory-made cells are not available for sale there, and ordering from afar is expensive. There is only one solution: make a cage yourself. From this article you will learn how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands using the example of Tsvetkov, Komov-Kuzmin, Mikhailov and Zolotukhin’s schemes with a comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Models of cells, drawings for them, how to choose material for a cell
The simplest cages: four walls, a tray, a box for a nest - often do not satisfy rabbit breeders who breed animals in large quantities. It’s difficult to keep such cells clean; you want more automation. Professional livestock specialists and amateur rabbit breeders are trying their best to improve cages and automate the process of caring for rabbits. To date, several projects are known rabbit cells, named after their designers:
- Zolotukhina;
- Mikhailova;
- Komova-Kuzmina;
- Tsvetkova.
Each project has its own advantages and disadvantages in design, material costs and use.
Characteristics of rabbit cages of various projects.
Comparison of the Tsvetkov, Komov-Kuzmin, Mikhailov and Zolotukhin schemes with a comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of each.
| Project name | Material | Advantages | Flaws |
| Professional Mikhailov cages | Metal; some craftsmen make it from wood | Forced ventilation from the top ventilation pipe; winter heating of the queen cell and heating of the drinking bowl; convenient manure collection system | A very complex project with many unnecessary details that even a specialist gets confused about; “dead” zones that are difficult to clean and collect dirt; other shortcomings are the same as in Tsvetkov’s project |
| Professional Tsvetkov cells | Metal, sometimes wood | Electric heating of the drinking bowl and a convenient manure collection system are provided; simpler project compared to Mikhailov cells | Pallet assembly floor; urine and smeared manure remain on the wide slats; the development is intended for a forest zone; lack of high-quality wind protection; occupy large area; drinking bowls become very dirty |
| Amateur project of Komov-Kuzmin | Metal or wood | The manger is closed with a door; vacuum drinkers | Lack of queen cell; lack of electric heating of the drinking bowl; |
| Zolotukhin project | Wood or metal | One of the simplest projects available to beginners; solid floor in the middle of the cage; tilting feeder | Requires insulation in winter; when there is wind, there is a draft from below; |
| Folk Design Lattice Cage | Metal grid | Easy to manufacture; very hygienic and hassle-free cleaning; can be made in any size; well suited for fattening beef herds | Unsuitable even for very warm climates with above-zero winter temperatures: newborn rabbits die |
Tip #1. From Odessa practitioners: when using “Tsvetkovsky” or “Mikhailovsky” cells to eliminate odor, pour a tablespoon of used machine oil into each bucket. An oil film on the surface of the bucket's contents will prevent the smell from spreading.
The difference between Mikhailov cells and Tsvetkov cells is noticeable only in the drawings.
Drawings and appearance of Mikhailov cells.
There are a lot of details in the drawings and it is often impossible to understand what belongs to what, while high quality drawing must be "transparent".
There are a lot of details in the drawings and it is often impossible to understand what belongs to what, while a high-quality drawing should be “transparent”
Mikhailov cages on a rabbit farm in a forest area where trees dampen the wind. Almost a copy of the Mikhailov cell with the same design flaws is the Tsvetkov cell. But the blueprints for this cell project are simpler. Separate drawings are devoted to individual details. In this case, the author did not try to fit the entire cell on one sheet.
Drawings of Tsvetkov's cell and its appearance
General drawing of Tsvetkov's cell 
Above is a drawing of manure collecting cones, below is general form cells. 
The queen cell is provided in two versions: as a full-fledged queen cell and as an almost open box. The second option will be preferable in summer, the first in winter, since heating is normally provided in the winter queen cell. 
The bunker feeder is generally no different from similar feeders from other manufacturers. 
The drinking bowl has a fairly good design that does not allow rabbits to get their paws into the water. The manger is designed in such a way that the rabbit cannot eat all the hay at once or scatter it around the cage, but is forced to pull food out of the bunker one hay at a time, eating constantly, while spending less hay than in a traditional manger. 
In 3D projection onto cells, the structure of these cells becomes more clear. On the left is a front view with bunker feeders, on the left is a rear view with queen cells. 
Worker cells located in steppe areas. Very large open openings on the front of the cage provide the animals with fresh air, but in winter the wind chills the cages. Tip #2. Experienced rabbit breeders who live in open spaces use polycarbonate sheets to protect their cages from the cold, which are screwed to the cages in winter.
The Komov-Kuzmin and Zolotukhin cells are much closer and more understandable to the average amateur, since they were created by amateurs. A lattice cage is even simpler, but it is also the most unsuitable for rabbits.
The Komov-Kuzmin cage essentially replicates a standard two-section cage for amateur rabbit breeding 
The Zolotukhin cell is even simpler. Even a novice rabbit breeder can repeat it. Instead of a queen cell, it contains a simple septum. How to make a rabbit cage with your own hands
The following materials can be used for cells:
- wooden boards;
- plywood;
- metal sheets;
- galvanized welded fine mesh;
- stone or brick.
There is no need to use polycarbonate sheets as the main material. In summer they will create increased temperature inside the cage. In addition, plastic cracks when exposed to sunlight.
Characteristics of building material suitable for the manufacture of cells
| Material | Characteristics |
| Board | Retains heat well in winter if there are no cracks; in summer it maintains a cooler microclimate than outside; one of the disadvantages is that it cracks under the influence of weather conditions; damaged by insects |
| Plywood | It is more durable than a board due to its structure; the plywood sheet does not have any cracks that need to be sealed; of the minuses - it warps under the influence of external conditions and is affected by insects |
| A metal sheet | There are no cracks; galvanized sheet is slightly susceptible to weather conditions; of the minuses - both in summer and winter in a cage without thermal insulation, standing on open space, hell: icy in winter, hot in summer |
| Metal grid | Placing a rabbit in such a cage is the same as leaving it to simply live under open air. The mesh does not protect from anything, and since such a cage often lacks shelter, the rabbit experiences additional stress in it. |
| Stone or brick | Quite suitable for southern regions with mild winter and in hot summers: the stone keeps cool in summer and warm in winter, but it is better to place such cages under a canopy; one of the downsides is that such cells cannot be cleaned properly |
Cells practically unsuitable for breeding. Suitable only for fattening for slaughter. Insulation materials used for cages
Insulation materials should be chosen that are harmless to humans and animals. Preferably also cheap. Such insulation can be.
Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, subsistence farming remains relevant to this day. The most profitable and low-cost method of domestic animal husbandry is rabbit breeding. But, like any living creature, a rabbit must have its own comfortable place to live. These animals are kept in special cages located in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a rabbit cage.
Such a process will not seem laborious if all the conditions for rabbit breeding premises are met. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, you first need to determine the size of the cages for rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one cage for all will not be enough. You need to plan at least three pieces. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.
Required space for 1 head
A detailed drawing showing even the smallest design details will ensure you have a reliable construction.
There are many known design methods for how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort to animals, others are convenient for the owner. financial costs. Each rabbit breeder chooses himself best option, based on your capabilities. But, nevertheless, more often they make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any construction supermarket, or you can rummage through your old supplies. Let's look at the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands.
Mesh rabbitry
There are many varieties of such cages; the following structures have proven themselves best:
- a cage without a supporting structure with supporting supports;
- frame cells.
Homemade galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire will serve for the production of such structures. For the tops and side sections of the cells, a mesh with links of 25x50 mm will be sufficient. Bottom part involves the use of small cells to prevent the paws of furry animals from slipping. Once you have determined the dimensions, construction can begin.
In our case, the cage will be an externally mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.
Step-by-step production
The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a rabbit cage with your own hands, you need to cut out certain parts of the sides based on the size.
A template made in advance will help create the front and back parts of the same size, which are carefully cut out from the mesh roll fabric. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching their perimeter.
- The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a fine-mesh mesh will serve as the base of the floor.
- Initially, fastening elements form the walls.
- Next, the base of the cage is installed. At the same time, the mesh weaves of the front part of the very first cell are removed. A tray for animal waste will be located here.
- Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several of them.
- The doors are also made using mesh and secured with fasteners.
- A mesh ceiling is laid on top of the resulting box.
- The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the drawings with dimensions are drawn out accurately and exceed the cage itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.
Step-by-step photo instructions
The main work is done, now you need to attach the finished structures to the wall metal parts and install limiters to prevent the cage from swaying when the animals move. The sides and back are covered with plywood sheets, which are cut relative to the dimensions of the frame, and not the size of the mesh formations. Now all that remains is to fill the holding area with the accessories necessary for the life of rabbits: feeders, drinking bowls, a tray, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a rabbit cage using the mesh method.
Mikhailova's rabbitry
The production of cages for rabbits must be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a famous rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have accessible and understandable instructions for the stages of construction yourself at home.
Mikhailov's cage is manufactured according to already developed drawing projects.
The essence of his technique is to divide the cell into three parts: top, bottom and support section, each of which has its own functional affiliation. So, top part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored until removal. The stand frame also serves as a fixing base. And the compartments of the Mikhailov cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and feeding, move out slightly.
Thanks to this scheme of housing, Mikhailov’s rabbitry requires minimal care– about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outside all year round.
The housings are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of similar premises for rabbits, differing in appearance, therefore, let us highlight the main features of the cell size ratio according to the Mikhailovsky method:
- the total area of one section accommodating a pair of animals ranges from 1.4 square meters. m.;
- the height of the cage is 2.1 m, width 2.4 m;
- each section of the cage is constructed with a width of 0.6 m and a height of 0.7 m;
- The queen cells are 0.4 m long and 0.35 m wide; the cone for collecting waste products can have any size.
The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. It is necessary to secure the supporting structure with fixing elements. This ensures the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.
Rabbit farm Zolotukhina
One of the most popular cages today are cages for rabbits by N.I. Zolotukhin, a man who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions for keeping animals at home closer to the natural features of their life. This is how Zolotukhin’s cell, economical and quite simple to create, appeared.
This design saves space and does not require daily cleaning, making it easier for rabbit breeders to maintain.
Let us highlight the main features of N. Zolotukhin’s design option:
- The floor is made using flat slate or a sheet of plywood. The mesh is attached only to the floor of the rear covering. There is no tray provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. This is where most of the feces are collected. The rest of the feces are scattered by the rabbits on the floor.
- The building has a complex structure, including six compartments located on floors. Each higher floor is shifted relative to the floor next to it, equal to the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side, connecting the floors, represents a kind of slope.
- The queen cell is completely absent. In cold weather, there is additionally a special shelter for the mother rabbit and baby rabbits.
Cleaning is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.
Cage for rabbits in 2 tiers
The use of multi-storey structures for rabbits at home is still the most compact and convenient option for raising rabbits. There is nothing easier than building rabbit cages with your own hands in 2 tiers.
Assembly diagram
Developed by experienced owners special instructions, the manual of which contains the following provisions:
- wooden blocks are connected to form four rectangular bases;
- using a mesh with small cells, they make the floor, then install the side walls;
- since the first floor contains trays for feces, the floor is made pitched for ease of removal;
- Trays for domestic rabbits are prepared using timber. The second floor must have a strong plywood sheet under its base to prevent contamination from reaching the first floor;
- the ceiling is made at the last moment using waterproof materials.
To support two floors, a reliable frame is designed. To correctly carry out such a cage design for rabbits, the drawings must always be kept at hand. Two-tier cages for rabbits have a structure layout in the shape of the letter “U”, represented by standard blocks attached to each other with self-tapping screws.
With these simple techniques you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which in their reliability and comfort will not be inferior to factory designs.
Depending on the age and size of the pet, the cage parameters may vary. For example, for rabbits of the "" breed, special cages will be required. Certain breeds will also need their own special cages.
The length of the cage for females with hatching should be 175-185cm, width – 1m, height – 60-70cm. During the hatching period, it is important that the female feels comfortable. Rabbits are incredibly afraid of dampness and drafts. Place the cages so that they are not constantly exposed to the sun. The façade of the cage should be placed to the east or west. Dig the pillar into the ground (to a depth of 0.6-0.8m), place stationary cells. Portable cages can be placed on stands or wooden trestles. Single-tier cages can be installed at a level of 70-80cm from the ground. In order for rabbits to move easily in cages, the structures must be free. For rabbits weighing over five kilograms, cages with a length of 130-150 cm, a depth of 70 cm, a back wall height of 40-45 cm, and a front wall height of 55-60 cm will be required.
Group cages are used for transplanted young animals. In such cages you can simultaneously keep from eight to twenty rabbits.
From three to five animals under three months of age or two to three rabbits over 3 months of age are kept in individual cages.
For one rabbit, the cage area should be at least 0.5 square meters. m, at least 35cm – wall height.
When making group cages, take into account the number of individuals, because each animal will need at least 0.15-0.20 square meters. m.
External cages for keeping rabbits can be one-, two-, or three-tiered. There should be 35 cm from the surface of the ground to the cells of the lower tier.
IN winter period When you need to care for suckling rabbits, you should cover the floor in the nesting compartment with straw. The layer of straw is up to twenty centimeters.
Choose non-artificial materials for making the cage. Synthetic materials have a bad effect on the development of rabbits - this rule is important for all breeds of rabbits.
Cage for adult rabbits
Since large cages are needed for a female with a hatch, a cage with the following parameters will be sufficient for an ordinary rabbit: width 60-70cm, height - 60cm, length -100cm. This minimum dimensions cages for one adult.
The rabbits are growing, and they will need larger cages. For adult rabbits, cages with the following parameters are suitable: width – 60-80cm, height – 50cm, length – 120-150cm. Farmers say that in such a cage an adult will feel free and have personal space. Experts agreed that the floor of the cage should be made of mesh or slats. In appearance, the cage should resemble a block consisting of two cells, each of which can contain an adult.
You can fence off the feeding and nesting compartments of the cage with a wall, although the pet will not get lost and will find food.
When choosing cells, you need to take into account gender. A cage for a female rabbit will not suit a rabbit, although they will be of the same type. Consider the size of the cage and external conditions when creating a cell.
A two-tier shed is a row of cages placed in one or several tiers. Details about. Suitable choice there will be a two-tier shed - it reduces the working area, does not complicate the control and care of pets. This design is used in southern regions or on the street. But such an enclosure can be organized in a barn or for the use of summer keeping rabbits. The shad should not stand on the ground. It is preferable to place it at a height of 50-60cm. Considering the size of the pet, the width of the shad should be up to 2m, depth – up to 1m. You can also make a two-tier shed yourself. You will need boards, slate and a durable steel mesh. The shed is built on a one-sided principle. A concrete foundation will increase the stability of the structure. Improved design includes manure channel and drip trays. Sheds – The best way for keeping rabbits. Arranging a shed allows you to keep several pets and makes caring for rabbits easier.
It is important to make a drawing of the cage and in the future add additional houses or even rows of houses for new pets. In the sheds, all the cells are the same in size, the houses are covered with a canopy, placed close to adjacent structures and placed one above the other. The convenience of this design is that the rabbits will spend spring and summer outside.
In winter, rabbits in sheds are given specially heated water. Typically, a nursery for grass or hay is set up between two houses. The cages have waste-free hopper feeders - they need to be loaded for 3 - 8 days. A bunker feeder can be made from steel sheets. In spring and summer, shads use automatic water supply for rabbits to drink. The passage in the shed is located at a slight slope from the center to the exit. The rear walls of the cage form the walls of the shad. The sheds have small windows with bars. In winter, the windows with bars are closed with folding doors. Doors are made with inside cells. Be sure to hang drinking bowls and feeders. An overhead road for trolleys (for transporting feed) is equipped along the middle passage.
You will need a double cage with a queen cell. The queen cell is a removable compartment where babies up to a month old will be kept. It is also called the aft compartment. The largest part of such a cell is called the feed cell. There should be a hole between the cells, measuring 17x20cm. A similar design is suitable for a male and a female, two rabbits with babies. A solid wooden partition or mesh will separate the compartments. It is best to make the floor from wooden slats(1.5cm step), then the manure will fall into the lower pan.
Rabbits do not live long and should be comfortable in the house. You should not save too much on materials, because healthy pets will fully pay for the costs. A double cage with a queen cell includes a nursery, a door to the nesting compartment, a mesh door, a folding drinker and feeder, a stand post, and a feeder axis.
The designs should be such that there is no need to constantly open the doors to fill them. Sawdust or small shavings are not suitable for bedding - the dust from them will cause the rabbit to sneeze.
Double cages with mesh aviary
To build a double, single-tier cage with a mesh enclosure, you will need 0.6 sq. m mesh (cells 35x35mm); lumber - 0.2 cubic meters. m, 1.3 sq. m metal mesh(cells 18x18mm) - if this is not available, then an all-welded mesh (cells 16x48mm) will do. Similar designs are needed for non-pregnant rabbits of reproductive age. They can also house adult rabbits and young animals separated from their queens.
Cages for rabbits with devices for storing food for 1-2 weeks
These are advanced cages, they are made from various building materials. Features: in the center there are structures for breeding stock, and along the walls there are enclosures for young individuals. The structures can be two- or three-tiered. But make it so that feces and urine do not fall from the upper cells.
For the uterine compartment: 40x70x60cm, for the light compartment: 60x70x60cm. Auto-drinkers, feeders, nurseries for grass and hay are located in a bright compartment. Install a mesh or slatted grille at a height of 5-10cm in the uterine compartment and at a height of 10-15cm from the floor in the light compartment. In summer you need to clean the cages more often because worms form in the manure.
Cage sizes for Zolotukhin rabbits
Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin, a famous rabbit breeder, developed his own concept for keeping rabbits.
In such cages there are no pallets, the floor is made of boards or slate, the rear walls are mounted at an angle, there are no special queen cells, grain feeders are fixed to the doors, only there is a narrow strip of mesh floor along the rear walls of the structure. Cell dimensions: 70x100cm, cells are placed one above the other in several tiers, queen cells are also placed. To prevent baby rabbits from falling out open door– place a board in front of the queen cell. Queen cells are placed one above the other. A separate opaque door, common to all structures, is installed. The queen cell is located in the cage itself, only part of the removable board is fenced off.
Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits
The breed of large meat-and-skin rabbits is called the “gray giant.” Required dimensions of the structure: width 35cm, length – 60cm, height – 40cm. You can make a more spacious cage: height – 61cm, length – 96cm, width – 68cm. The “gray giant” rabbit lives in areas with different climatic conditions.
Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits
The following design is suitable: width 50cm, length 70cm, height 30cm. To make a rabbitry, you will need a soldered mesh, the cells must be square. You will need rolled wire, diameter 6mm. Thinner wire should be wrapped around the joints on the structure. In such designs, water is supplied through nipple drinkers, and there are also small feeders with a supply of food. The animals are fed for about a week. During this period they should be carefully looked after.
Cage sizes for California rabbits
California rabbits are easy to care for. This is a hybrid of Russian ermine, Soviet chinchilla and New Zealand breed. The dimensions of the structure can be 1.5 times smaller than for “gray giant” rabbits. These rabbits can tolerate the cold well even without bedding. For a cell with a queen cell, 0.4 square meters will be enough. m, for one individual – 0.3 sq. m. They are easy to maintain. California rabbits have coarse fur on their feet. When placing individuals in mesh blocks, place pets of the same age - this will make it easier to care for, feed, and conduct veterinary examinations.
To raise California rabbits solely for meat, keep them in a pit. Setting up a pit is very easy, and the living conditions of these rabbits in the pit will be as close as possible to natural conditions their habitat.
To set up a rabbit pit, you need to dig a hole with approximate dimensions of 2x2x1 m, strengthen the walls with slate or concrete, lay a mesh or plank floor, enclose the hole with a fence, and make a roof. California rabbits will burrow, mate, breed, and raise young.
To avoid degeneration of rabbits, do not allow inbreeding. The rabbit breeder is obliged to supply water, feed, and periodically carry out selective selection. To avoid inbreeding, the first generation to reach sexual maturity, obtained from a particular male, must be captured and replaced with other rabbits.
California rabbits eat dairy products, fish or meat meal, various protein supplements. In winter, pets should have warm liquid to drink. Constant access to water is required for rabbits.
In recent years, it has become very popular among farmers to breed California rabbits. This breed is easy to breed on specialized farms. European rabbits are the ancestors of this individual. Initially, breeders set themselves the task of developing a meat breed of rabbits with good skins. This breed is one of the most famous meat rabbit breeds. 7-8 rabbits is the average fertility of rabbits. When breeding, female rabbits can produce 11-12 rabbits. Rabbits are white (grayish) at birth, and by 3.5-4 months of age they become similar in color to adult rabbits. In two months, newborn rabbits gain two kilograms of weight. Adult female rabbits weigh 4.7-5.2 kg, rabbits - 4.5-5 kg. If you cross New Zealand white rabbits with California rabbits, you can achieve excellent breeding results. Rabbits of this breed have drooping legs. California rabbits have been successfully bred on slatted floors. The tail of Californian rabbits lies close to the body, the chin is symmetrical, the head is set on a short neck, a wide back and shoulders, and a cylindrical body of medium length.
This breed may also be called the “California White Rabbit” because it is pure white. However, the tips of the ears, tail and paws may be brown or black. Usually such a rabbit weighs no more than 5 kg. If you weigh more, you are obese. The rabbit's legs are thick and short, its eyes are pink, its skeleton is strong and light. The length of the ears does not exceed 10cm. Experienced breeders advise novice rabbit breeders to pay attention to breeding California rabbits, because they are easy to keep.
The length of the fur is approximately 3cm, the length of the body is 50cm. The head is round, medium-sized. The rabbit's fur is shiny and thick. California rabbits can also be bought for entertainment, because they have a peaceful disposition and cheerful character. With proper care, California rabbits can live up to ten years. However, due to their large size, such individuals will be difficult to keep as ornamentals. Rooms with moderate, constant temperature air, with lighting. You can feed them hay, grass, cereals, flour, vegetables, and cereals.
Optimal cage sizes for rabbits
Suitable cages will have the following dimensions: length - 120-150cm, width - 60-80cm, front wall height - 45-50cm, the door should be mesh, dimensions 65x70x50cm, slatted or mesh floor.
Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits
Industrial cage designs are modular, which, taking into account the stages of the process cycle, allows new designs to be added to existing ones. Dimensions: 2x2x1x7m, there are ten uterine compartments, measuring 40x92cm. To facilitate access to the boxes, there are spring-loaded lids. The operator, using the lifting covers of the partitions, can clean the rabbit uterus sections without any obstacles, perform weaning, individual therapy, palpation, and insemination. To remove litter, all cages have removable corner panels.
Raising rabbits requires patience and knowledge of their physiology. Without this, results will not be achieved. IN winter time Rabbits feel better in a heated room specially allocated for them, which is called a rabbitry. A small one is suitable for home breeding.
What should a rabbitry be like?
In order for rabbits to feel normal, not get sick, grow well and reproduce quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding in terms of conditions of detention, with bad conditions often get sick. To prevent this from happening, they need the following conditions:
- The optimal temperature is 14-16°C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place remote from heating devices, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is unprofitable. But a gradual rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sudden changes. From all this it follows that it is necessary to build an insulated rabbitry, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning. The most justified are rabbit hutches built using mineral wool insulation (thickness is calculated depending on the region). No less attention should be paid to the insulation of the floor and ceiling. Roofing material may be without insulation, it should provide protection from moisture. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the ceiling. The cheapest way is to pour a layer of expanded clay onto the ceiling, apply a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then you can even throw fallen leaves onto the dried clay for additional thermal insulation.
- Rabbits are demanding of air humidity - it must be maintained at 60-75%.
- Drafts have a negative effect on the health of rabbits. This is another argument in favor of frame buildings - if constructed correctly, there should be no drafts. However, the rabbitry must have ventilation because they need fresh air and the gases that come from the rabbits' urine and feces must be removed. But the air speed should not be more than 0.3 m/s. Usually, an inlet opening is made, covered by a movable grille at floor level in one corner of the rabbitry, and an exhaust pipe under the ceiling in the other. IN exhaust pipe you can install a gate. Using a movable grille and a damper, you can regulate the speed of air movement in the rabbitry depending on weather conditions. If natural ventilation is not enough, fans with the ability to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades are installed in the exhaust or supply pipe (there should be several modes).
- The second factor that affects the state of the atmosphere in a rabbitry is the regularity of cleaning and the design of the cages. About the cells - a little lower, and here - about cleaning. It should be regular - at least 2-3 times a week. The main indicator is the presence or absence of a strong odor.
- In order for less ammonia to be released, it is necessary to organize the collection of stool so that urine is separated from feces. If the collection goes into trays under the cages, they have a slope and a trench through which the urine is drained into a separate container. If waste is collected through gutters into a pit (with large numbers of rabbits), the ditches must be made so that urine leaks into a lower gutter separated by a mesh. This is a rather difficult task, since one part is separated from the other using a mesh, and it often gets clogged. To keep everything in working order, you have to clean it often.
Construction of a rabbitry is a serious matter
The rate of weight gain and fur density are also affected by the illumination of the rabbitry and the length of daylight hours. Rabbits are most active at dusk and at night. Bright lighting is undesirable for them. A sufficient level of illumination is 50-70 lux for adults, 25-30 lux for fattening young animals. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so in winter lighting is required, but dim. To make the lighting more comfortable when servicing the rabbitry, install several additional light bulbs above the cages, but connect them to the second switch (or to the second key). Another option is to install a brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead regular switch, allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.
Rabbit cages
The easiest way to keep rabbits is in cages under a canopy in the open air. But this option is available in regions with more or less mild winters. Often this type of keeping is practiced at the beginning of a rabbit breeder’s “career,” but gradually they come to the conclusion that a rabbitry is necessary. It’s just that during the winter the livestock often decreases greatly, feed consumption increases significantly, and the gain is very small. It turns out that it is more profitable to build a rabbitry and heat it.
Dimensions and design of rabbit cages
The size of rabbit cages depends on the breed. The larger the rabbits, the more space they require. On average, the height of the cage is 500-700 mm, the roof can be sloped back, then the height at the back is 50-100 mm less. The depth of the cage is 50-70 cm. The width is more difficult - cages of different sizes are made for males and females. In cages for female rabbits, it is advisable to fence off the queen cell - a closed, small volume in which the female rabbit will build a nest. Without taking into account the queen cell, the length of the cage for males and females is the same - 500-800 cm.
There are several options for constructing a queen cell:
- In spacious cages, a cube of boards of a suitable size is placed, in which a hole is made for passage.
- Immediately, during construction, part of the cell for the queen cell is fenced off.
- There are wide removable doors on the sides of the cage. Before the female rabbit has offspring, the doors are removed and the queen cell is hung (reliable fastening is required).
The optimal dimensions of the queen cell are: depth 80 cm, width 60 cm, height 40 cm (or whatever the size of your cell is). It is advisable to make a shelf inside the cell or above the queen cell. On it the rabbit will hide from the annoying little ones. In this case, she will not accidentally trample them, as happens if there is no shelf.
Queen cell hung to the cage for a female rabbit
A hole is made from the queen cell into the main cell. It should not start level with the floor; there should be a threshold of at least 5 cm. In the first days, it will keep the babies inside the queen cell.
How to make a floor
Regardless of the type of keeping rabbits, the cage must be dry. Therefore, a solid floor is very rarely made; it is better to make a slotted one, with large gaps, or from a metal mesh with a small cell. If the floor is made solid (from a piece of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB), then it is made inclined towards back wall(you can go to the front, but it’s less convenient). A grate or mesh is nailed into the back of the floor, through which urine pours out and excrement falls out.
It is better to make the floor in a cage for rabbits double - the first level is made of wooden slats or a metal grid
It is much better to make a double floor - the first is lattice, the second is solid. For a slatted floor, take wooden planks 20-25 mm wide and fill them with a gap of 15 mm. All waste, both liquid and solid, normally falls through such gaps. Instead of slats, you can use a rigid mesh with thick wire and small cells.
Mesh floor made of galvanized wire - also performed well
The lower level of the floor - the pallet - is often made of galvanized iron, preferably from a single piece. In this case, a slope is formed (usually in the center of the cell or between two adjacent ones), and a gutter is formed in the center. The height of the pallet is 25-35 mm. Less is inconvenient, more is not necessary.
To make the metal last longer, it can be treated with drying oil. If it is necessary to splice pieces, make the connection so that everything drips off, and it is advisable to lubricate it bitumen mastic- so that sewage does not flow onto the floor of the rabbitry.
Cages for female rabbits are queen cells on the sides. The lower level of the floor is made of galvanized steel and has a trough for urine drainage and ease of cleaning.
At the same time, the lower tier of the floor must be movable so that it can be pulled out and washed/cleaned. To do this, corners are stuffed onto which a sheet of metal rides, like on a sled.
It is not necessary to make the lower tier of the floor for each cell. It can be common to two or three located nearby. If these are cages for rabbits, you usually end up with a common tray for two cages, with queen cells on each side. If cages of young animals for fattening or males are located in a row, three cages can be combined.
Sometimes they are also used as a lower floor. flat slate. But in this case, the drain can only be organized backwards or forwards and only into the gutter that runs along the cage - the sheet cannot be bent in any way.
Doors
Doors are usually made with mesh. A frame is made from a block onto which a mesh is stretched. Tighten the nails or screws so that their points do not stick out inside the cage. It is better to stuff the mesh so that it is flush on the side of the cage. This way there is less chance of rabbits chewing through the door. Those who are more comfortable with welding weld a frame from a small corner, stretch the eraser onto a steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter, and weld this wire to the door.
In terms of size, a larger door is more convenient - it will be more convenient for you to maintain the cage. Constipations are ordinary hooks or latches; they are also made in the old fashioned way with a piece of a block that spins on a nail driven into its middle. But this type of constipation is very unreliable.
One of the most simple options constipation for rabbit cages
If carpentry is not your thing, to make the door more rigid, you can fill the block diagonally. It will prevent the door from warping (as in the photo above). Please note that the bar is padded on the outside - this will prevent rabbits from chewing on it.
Roof
You can cover rabbit cages with any inexpensive material. But we must remember that overheating and hypothermia are destructive for rabbits. Therefore, simply throwing a piece of metal or any material based on it will not work. It is better to use a material with low thermal conductivity. For example, you can stuff plywood (moisture-resistant, construction), OSB and any other similar material.
If the cages will be placed outside, without a canopy, something will need to be placed on the sheet material to protect them from precipitation. In more northern regions or when installing the cage in the shade, you can lay roofing material or more modern material for waterproofing. It can not be fused, but glued to bitumen mastic.
Another option is to lay slate, preferably wave slate. Moreover, it is better to raise it above the cage by 15-25 cm. This will create air gap, it won't be hot in the cage. And the resulting gap can be used for drying/withering grass. Dried in the shade, it retains more nutrients.
Sennik, drinking bowls, feeders
For rabbits you don’t need much equipment - a hay barn, feeders for bulk small feed, drinking bowls. The design of the drinking bowls should be such that they can be easily removed - they need to be washed and the water changed. For these purposes, some kind of trays are usually adapted, under which a “seat” is made from a strip of metal, fixed to the door (the most convenient option) or on the wall, close to the door.
There is one very good option for a drinking bowl from the “cheap and cheerful” category. A cutting is used as a “cup holder” sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Trimming height - 80-100 mm. A trimmed 2-liter bottle is inserted inside this ring. plastic bottle. The bottle is cut flush with the “glass holder”, only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long remains so that the glass can be easily pulled out.
Senniks are made either between two cages, bevelling adjacent walls in the shape of the letter V. This method is more convenient when building cages for rabbits (seen in several photos above). The second option for cages of males and young animals is to make one of the walls (or part of the wall) lattice-like, and attach a piece of plywood, OSB, a board made of planks, etc. to it on hinges. Fix it in the desired position using a hook, rope, or wire.
In principle, if there is not enough space on the side, such a canopy can be made in the front, on the door. It’s just that in addition to the drinking bowl, they often nail/make a feeder on the door.
Feeders are made by anyone using whatever they can. Some people have plastic or metal trays attached, others make them out of wood, they even try to make them out of drywall. An interesting option seemed to be an attached piece of profile for drywall large section(pictured below).
You can make a feeder out of wood, but the edges must be covered with tin.
If you have some tinsmithing skills, you can make a feeder from galvanized sheet metal.
To get rid of the dusty part of the feed, several small holes are made in the bottom of the feeder.
What materials are the frame and walls made of?
The frame for cages in a rabbitry is made from wooden beam or from a load-bearing (wall) galvanized profile for plasterboard; welded frames from metal pipe. They are the most reliable, but also the heaviest. More suitable for permanent installation in a rabbitry.
The lightest cages are made from a profile, but the choice of materials is very limited - heavy ones cannot be used. When using timber, there are no questions about the weight of the material, but there is a problem - rabbits chew the wood. Therefore, they try to make cages so that there are fewer protruding corners - they cannot gnaw on smooth surfaces.
As you saw in the photo, the walls of rabbit cages are made from different materials- plywood, OSB, wooden boards and planks. They often use whoever has what. The most problematic areas are covered with tin or a mesh is pulled over the top - this also prevents the wood from being chewed. There are cages that are almost entirely made of mesh. Young animals for fattening feel good in them.
Photo report on the manufacture of a cage for a rabbitry from a galvanized profile
This option is suitable for those regions where wood is expensive or for those who have a lot of profile remains after construction/repair. When making cages, the dimensions are adjusted to the existing molding - small deviations in one direction or another are acceptable, but the rabbits should have room in the cage.
This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two sections. The main part is 55*75*55 cm, the mother liquor is 35*55*30 cm. The racks have a reinforced profile, the crossbars are used for normal work - as usual with drywall - the pieces are fastened with self-tapping screws (fleas).
The floor in the main part is made of a block 2 cm thick and 5 cm wide. The planks are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. The screws must be screwed in so that they can be easily unscrewed - if (or rather, when) the strip is chewed, it will be easy to replace with a new one.
In the queen cell the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part and fill the gap with insulation - even expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cold snap, the babies will not freeze - their mother usually warms them from above. If it is warm from below, they will not get sick.
The height of the queen cell is 20 cm lower than the main cell. From the inside, in the cage, there is a shelf on which the rabbit will escape from the annoying little ones.
To prevent the external joints of the plywood from being chewed, we cover them with perforated metal corners. You just need to look for the ones that are thicker. We cut the edges of the corners at 45° so that they do not ride up or stick out.
Photos of rabbit cages for installation in a rabbitry and outdoors
Cages in a rabbitry are rarely placed in three tiers - the lower ones are difficult to maintain
Wire walls, pipe frame. Only the back wall is blank - so that there are no drafts
If you decide to have rabbits, this is a profitable activity: they are unpretentious, do not need special food, and reproduce and grow very quickly. But you will definitely need rabbit cages. I will tell you in what conditions these furry rodents should be kept, and what kind of houses should be for them.
Condition 1. Rules for keeping rabbits
There are two options for cell locations:
- indoors, for example, in an extension to a house or a separate barn;
- on open air.
If the cages will be placed outdoors, adhere to these rules:
- Homemade Rabbits do not like direct sunlight. Therefore, their houses should be located in the shade of trees or protected by an artificial fence that will diffuse the rays of the sun.
- Ambient air humidity should be no more than 60-70%. Place the cages in an elevated and dry area, away from bodies of water.
- Drafts often cause rabbit diseases. Animals should not be exposed to air currents exceeding 30 m/sec.
- Cages must be well ventilated. The fumes from the rabbits' secretions should not harm their health.
- It is highly advisable to install rabbit houses facing east.
For the winter season, the cages should be insulated; the temperature inside should vary from +10 to +20 °C. Particularly carefully insulate the nesting compartment for queens and their offspring.
- in winter, the room should be illuminated for no more than 10 hours;
- the walls must be plastered;
- be sufficiently ventilated;
- the best option if South side The room will be equipped with a window on the entire wall.
- cages can be made at a height of 80-100 cm from the floor, so the rabbits will be protected from bites of rats and mice, and it will be easier for you to care for your pets.
Condition 2. Cage design and dimensions
The cages must be of a certain size and design.
Dimensions of the rabbitry
The size of the cells depends:
- from the breed of rabbits;
- schemes for their maintenance (“battery” cages, mini-farm, industrial farming, etc.);
- standard values: young animals need 0.12 m² of area, males - 0.17 m², and females - 0.5 m².
Common cage sizes for rabbits:
- for rabbits - 50×70×30 cm;
- for adults - 50×100×30 cm.
Most often, houses are made into two cells. In such paired rabbitries, the nesting compartments are adjacent to the outer walls of the cages. They communicate with the feeding areas through passages (manholes) measuring 17x17 cm.
Features of a rabbit house
There are doors on the front side of the rabbitry: two mesh doors in the walkways and two solid doors in the nesting areas. Between them there are drinking bowls and nurseries. Feeders are attached to the front of the screen doors.
The entire area of the cage for keeping rabbits is divided into a walking section and a nesting area (dead nook). The size of the walking area can vary, but most often it is 50 cm in width and length.
The little cubby beloved by the animals is a box 25 cm wide and 50 cm long. Rabbits sleep in it, and also hide in bad weather or when they feel danger.
The nook is tightly sheathed and only a removable door is hung on its front side. The hole is made in the wall adjacent to the walking area.
Rabbit cages are made with slatted or mesh floors. This is necessary so that their waste can freely fall into the tray located under the floor.
The height of the front side of the house should be 50-55 cm, and the back wall should be given a height of 30 cm. In other words, the roof of the cage should have a slope. With a tiered arrangement of rabbit hutches, it will simultaneously play the role of a tray for the upper cages. Therefore, the roof must be sheathed with galvanized sheet iron.
What materials should I use?
The best option for cell construction- use environmentally friendly wood and its processed products.
- A wooden beam is well suited for constructing a frame.
- You can cover the walls with plywood or boards. Chipboard is not suitable for this; this board absorbs moisture, swells from it and begins to crumble.
- To arrange the floors, use welded mesh with cell size 1.5×1.5 cm.
- For flooring, you can also use wooden or plastic slats 2-3 cm wide. Stuff them in increments of 1.5 cm between each other. This way, the rabbits' waste will fall freely into the pan.
- The step should not be more than the given figure. Otherwise, the animals’ paws will get stuck in the cracks, and they may break them.
When making a house for a rabbit with your own hands, remember one thing important condition. The materials for its construction must be smooth, without burrs, splinters and other inclusions that cause injury.
Stages of making a cage
I will describe to you how to make the simplest cage for keeping rabbits indoors. According to this scheme, you can build a house for open air, but then you will have to use OSB.
The design of the cage must be shown in the drawing. Draw it, focusing on the dimensions of a single rabbitry: length 150 cm, width 70 cm and height 70 cm.
But it’s better if the rabbit cage is a double cage, so you’ll save building materials. Then the framework should look like this:
- length - 300 cm;
- width - 70 cm;
- the height in front is 120 cm, and behind - 100 cm.
Tools and materials
Before making a rabbit cage, prepare the materials:
- two sheets of plywood, 150x150 cm in size and 1 cm thick;
- 10 wooden blocks, 3 m long and 3x5 cm in size;
- 3 m² galvanized iron mesh, with cells 1.5x1.5 cm;
- 1 kg of self-tapping screws, 3 and 7 cm long.
And, of course, you will also need the appropriate tools.
Assembling a rabbit house
| Image | Instructions |
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Step 1. Construction of the frame
Assemble the frame on a hard, level surface. Dimensions of the base of the house: length 3 m, width 0.7 m, front height 1.2 m, rear 1 m. The frame must have legs. Screw the mesh onto the floors of the structure with your own hands. You can fasten it without reaching the edges of the structure, the queen cells will be located there. Their floor must be solid. |
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Step 2. Work on the queen cells.
First, make the back wall from plywood: cut it to the size of the frame and screw it to the beam with screws. |